Re: Stus-List Traveler components

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

‎As an alternative, I replaced my traveler with Harken a few seasons ago. The track has a "T" slot on the bottom so the bolts slide into any position and use the existing holes from the original setup.High quality, possibly a bit more expensive than Garhauer, adjusts under load, a great improvement over the original equipment.   sam :-)C&C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta  From: kirk sneddon via CnC-ListSent: Monday, September 15, 2014 7:30 PMTo: 'Paul Fountain'; cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: kirk sneddonSubject: Re: Stus-List Traveler componentsVery happy with the quality and service from Garhauer.  I also worked with Guido.  I replaced my traveler this spring. I sent them my old track and they used it as a drill template, so installation was easy with no new holes to drill.  The Garhauer cars are low friction, and high quality. With the  increased mechanical advantage and continuous line it was a major improvement for modest sum. Kirk SneddonC&C 29 MK IIFlying Cloud From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul Fountain via CnC-ListSent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:07 AMTo: Marek Dziedzic; Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!Paul. :)  On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List"  wrote:I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs. Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars are supposedly really good. Marek From: Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PMTo: Burt Stratton ; CnClist Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components Burt,You should have several options.  You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a Schaefer. Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  wrote:Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and ground tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine, thank you. Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very enjoyable considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about life aboard the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke over-night. The broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the center of the car that is used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes through the car and is secured by a nut on the bottom. I am not sure this is original design or hardware. Can’t find a traveler car on the interwebs that looks anything like mine. I assumed it was Harken as everything else on the boat is. It is a very simple 4:1 arrangement with 8 captive rollers that ride on the track. The hole that the eyebolt goes through looks like it was threaded once. I ended up using a 5/16 stainless eye bolt that was a close enough fit but it is definitely a temporary solution. Does anyone have a source that might have the correct components or am I looking at a new traveler track, ends, blocks and car? 1974 33 ¾ tonnerPortsmouth, RI    bstrat...@falconnect.com ___This List is provided by the C&C Photo AlbumEmail address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___This List is provided by the C&C Photo AlbumEmail address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___This List is provided by the C&C Photo AlbumEmail address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___
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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Like the replies so far, lots of places for rain to get in and run to the
bilge via a keel stepped mast.  I don't worry about it but if it really
bothers you, seal the halyard exit plates where they meet the mast.  You
may have to drill out rivets and refasten them to do it properly.

Look at any cable entries, VHF, Anchor light, Windex light, etc.  Seal them
and put a "drip loop" on them.  That is, configure them so the cable runs
down then turns up into the opening in the mast.

You'll still have leaks from the masthead sheaves, axles, any halyard
entries, and from condensation.

If you work hard, you may be able to eliminate 70% of the rain.  You'll
never get it all.  In my opinion, not worth the effort.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 7:42 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the
> bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single
> water tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a
> current of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was
> filled with rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru
> the mast collar. Where is the rain getting in?
>
> Barbara H. Fellers
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

Barbara.

Via the halyard exits. I have the issue with Honey's mast. Say hello to Chip 
for me

Jack Fitzgerald
Savannah, GA


> On Sep 15, 2014, at 20:42, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the 
> bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single water 
> tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current 
> of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with 
> rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
> collar. Where is the rain getting in?
> 
> Barbara H. Fellers
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Traveler components

[kirk sneddon via CnC-List]

Very happy with the quality and service from Garhauer. 

 

I also worked with Guido.  I replaced my traveler this spring. I sent them
my old track and they used it as a drill template, so installation was easy
with no new holes to drill. 

 

The Garhauer cars are low friction, and high quality. With the  increased
mechanical advantage and continuous line it was a major improvement for
modest sum.

 

Kirk Sneddon

C&C 29 MK II

Flying Cloud

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Paul
Fountain via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:07 AM
To: Marek Dziedzic; 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

 

Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!

Paul. :) 

 


On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List"
 wrote:

I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.

 

Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars
are supposedly really good.

 

Marek

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List   

Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM

To: Burt Stratton   ; CnClist
  

Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

 

Burt,

You should have several options.  

You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be
able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.

I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is
between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That
would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.

Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a
Schaefer.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List
 wrote:

Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on
Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and
ground tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine,
thank you. Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very
enjoyable considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about
life aboard the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke
over-night. The broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the center
of the car that is used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes through the
car and is secured by a nut on the bottom. I am not sure this is original
design or hardware. Can’t find a traveler car on the interwebs that looks
anything like mine. I assumed it was Harken as everything else on the boat
is. It is a very simple 4:1 arrangement with 8 captive rollers that ride on
the track. The hole that the eyebolt goes through looks like it was threaded
once. I ended up using a 5/16 stainless eye bolt that was a close enough fit
but it is definitely a temporary solution. Does anyone have a source that
might have the correct components or am I looking at a new traveler track,
ends, blocks and car?

 

1974 33 ¾ tonner

Portsmouth, RI   

 

bstrat...@falconnect.com

 


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  _  


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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

[coltrek via CnC-List]

The bane of every keel stepped sailors existence. All the holes in the mast 
where the halyards exit and enter. And of course, the water runs down the 
halyards and builds up as it enters the holes. 

Wild Bill

 Original message From: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
via CnC-List  Date:09/15/2014  8:42 PM  
(GMT-05:00) To: C&c List  Subject: 
Stus-List Rain inside mast? 
I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in 
the bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single 
water tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a 
current of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled 
with rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
collar. Where is the rain getting in?

Barbara H. Fellers


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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Common on keel stepped masts.  Rain hits the mast, runs down and finds every 
halyard exit (top and bottom), electrical opening, etc.  Amazing how much water 
comes in actually.  That’s why god invented bilges (on the 8th day).  Take a 
look the next time you drop your mast and you may find a few opening you can 
plug.  Only so much you can do however.  Be thankful there is no leaking around 
the collar.

John

On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:42 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the 
> bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single water 
> tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current 
> of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with 
> rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
> collar. Where is the rain getting in?
> 
> Barbara H. Fellers
> 
> 
> ___
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> 


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Re: Stus-List Rain inside mast?

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Your halyard boxes are open and water will run in there 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:42 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the 
> bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single water 
> tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current 
> of water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with 
> rain water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast 
> collar. Where is the rain getting in?
> 
> Barbara H. Fellers
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> 
> Email address:
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> at:
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> 

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Stus-List Rain inside mast?

[Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List]

I've been trying for months to figure out where all the fresh water in the 
bilge is coming from. I re fastened o rings  and washers for the single water 
tank and today while on board on the pouring rain, it sounded like a current of 
water coming down the inside of the mast. The mast step was filled with rain 
water and going into the bilge but there was no leak thru the mast collar. 
Where is the rain getting in?

Barbara H. Fellers


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Re: Stus-List In-Hull Depth Transducer

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

If you buy the Lowrance, get any extended warranty available and have a
reliable backup. I'd pay the extra and go Raymarine. I personally wouldn't
touch Lowrance...I used to sell them.
Posted from the dock in Gorge Harbour. : )

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 14 September 2014 14:54, David Jacobs via CnC-List  wrote:

> Thank you Graham. That's a big help.
>
> Dave
> Saltaire
> C&C 35 MK 3
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Graham Collins [mailto:cnclistforw...@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 12:00 PM
> To: David Jacobs; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List In-Hull Depth Transducer
>
> Hi Dave
> There are several areas of hull on the 35-3 that have no core, my
> speed/depth transducer is located adjacent to the thru-hull fitting for the
> head discharge and it is solid core there.
> Looking at the inside of the hull it should be clear where there is core
> and
> is no core, as there is a noticeable step in the surface at the boundaries.
>
> I've got a B&G Triton set, it was easy to install and painless.  It talks
> to
> my Ray plotter, with N2K networking any system should play nice.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2014-09-14 11:08 AM, David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:
> > I am purchasing a Lowrance chart plotter and depth sounder and like
> > several others would really like to avoid another hole in the bottom.
> > In-hull transducers will not work through a cored hull which my 35Mk3
> > has. Is there solid hull at or near the boats centerline? Is anyone
> > using an in-hull transducer in their core hulled C&C?
> >
> > By the way, I would prefer Raymarine but the nearly $400 price
> > difference (all through Defender) is significant. If anyone thinks the
> > Raymarine is worth the extra money or has any comments about this
> > choice please let me know.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Dave
> > Saltaire
> > C&C 35 MK3
> >
> >
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> >
> >
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I replaced a similar unit like your old unit with the Moeller reed switch style 
on my C&C 41 ( 1986 model), and am very happy with. I am particularly pleased 
with the lack of moving parts, immersed in the fuel, and the sealed reed switch 
design. No need to calibrate, if the  tank is reasonably rectangular, if you 
know the depth, and  Moeller has a depth unit to match.

As I recall, the screw holes for the Moeller also matched the pattern for the 
old model.

Don Wagner
C&C 41 CB
Der Baron 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 11:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

33-240 ohms is a USA standard for engine gauges. Oil pressure, temperature, 
fuel level, etc. will all use 33-240 ohm senders.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PME via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

 

Hi,

 

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.  

 

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.

 

 

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg

 

 

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL





 

 




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Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

33-240 ohms is a USA standard for engine gauges. Oil pressure, temperature, 
fuel level, etc. will all use 33-240 ohm senders.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of PME via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2014 9:57 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

Hi,

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 troubleshooting

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

FWIW, here is a really primitive, but effective, way to test the ignition
system.  Get a plant spray bottle, fill with water, with engine running in
low light, spray mist around the plug and coil wires.  Look for arcing.

Sounds like a fuel issue to me.

Joel

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok so, I've just run the engine fir nearly 2 hours to see if I could get
> it to cut out.  It ran perfectly and now I have fully charged batteries!
>  Lol.
>
> The coil is hot but not too hot to touch.  I can touch it for a few
> seconds but then it stays to hurt a bit.  My guess is about 180 degrees
> based on my years working on boilers.
>
> Now, it was not under any load but I didn't think that would matter much
> if it were the coil that caused the slow stall.  If it is the gas tank I
> guess maybe, not bouncing in waves keeps anything that might be settled at
> the bottom, settled at the bottom and riding through any 2 or 3 foot seas
> stirred things up...
>
> Now, the gas tank is pretty low.  I really don't want to pull it now as I
> don't want to lose any potential sailing days that are left.
>
> I have to say, I've only been using the engine to get in and out of
> mooring fields and she has worked perfectly.  Starts easily, runs smooth,
> idles low...  I should be happy...
>
> I'm still a little perplexed.  But, can I rule out the ignition based on
> today's 2 hour test?
>
>
> From my Android phone
>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I replaced an ugly sender similar to that with a Moeller.  It is
surprisingly accurate.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 9:57 AM, PME via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?
> This is the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it
> is the original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I
> have the fuel tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley
> yet).  I don't have a decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original),
> and I am hoping on purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.
> I am thinking about replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE
> 03576510 15in tank depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a
> standard?).   I tried measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is
> toast.
>
> Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed
> switch sender is greatly welcomed.
>
>
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Replacement fuel sender for Landfall 38

[PME via CnC-List]

Hi,

Does anyone recognize the fuel sender in the photo at the link below?   This is 
the sender which was in the fuel tank on my 38LF.  I don't think it is the 
original as it appears the tank has previously been replaced.   I have the fuel 
tank at home all cleaned out and nicely painted(no smiley yet).  I don't have a 
decent photo of the fuel gauge(it may be original), and I am hoping on 
purchasing a new sender before going down to the boat.   I am thinking about 
replacing the old unit with a Moeller reed switch (MOE 03576510 15in tank 
depth) which comes calibrated to 33-240 Ohms(is this a standard?).   I tried 
measuring the resistance of the old unit but it is toast.  

Any input on the type of old sender or on the reliability of the new reed 
switch sender is greatly welcomed.


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/99269361/old-sender.jpg


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL




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Re: Stus-List Traveler components

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Burt,

Take a picture of it and email it to Harken, or if the boat show is today,
walk over to their booth.  They had parts for my 1983 traveler.
A Garhaurer traveler and car might be cheaper than a Harken repair.

Joel

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 9:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on
> Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and
> ground tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine,
> thank you. Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very
> enjoyable considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about
> life aboard the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke
> over-night. The broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the
> center of the car that is used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes
> through the car and is secured by a nut on the bottom. I am not sure this
> is original design or hardware. Can’t find a traveler car on the interwebs
> that looks anything like mine. I assumed it was Harken as everything else
> on the boat is. It is a very simple 4:1 arrangement with 8 captive rollers
> that ride on the track. The hole that the eyebolt goes through looks like
> it was threaded once. I ended up using a 5/16 stainless eye bolt that was a
> close enough fit but it is definitely a temporary solution. Does anyone
> have a source that might have the correct components or am I looking at a
> new traveler track, ends, blocks and car?
>
>
>
> 1974 33 ¾ tonner
>
> Portsmouth, RI
>
>
>
> bstrat...@falconnect.com
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Traveler components

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Have a garhauer traveller ... Works great!

Paul. :)


On Sep 15, 2014, at 8:18 AM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.

Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars are 
supposedly really good.

Marek

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM
To: Burt Stratton ; 
CnClist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

Burt,

You should have several options.

You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be 
able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.

I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is 
between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That 
would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.

Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a 
Schaefer.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on 
Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and ground 
tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine, thank you. 
Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very enjoyable 
considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about life aboard 
the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke over-night. The 
broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the center of the car that is 
used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes through the car and is secured by a 
nut on the bottom. I am not sure this is original design or hardware. Can't 
find a traveler car on the interwebs that looks anything like mine. I assumed 
it was Harken as everything else on the boat is. It is a very simple 4:1 
arrangement with 8 captive rollers that ride on the track. The hole that the 
eyebolt goes through looks like it was threaded once. I ended up using a 5/16 
stainless eye bolt that was a close enough fit but it is definitely a temporary 
solution. Does anyone have a source that might have the correct components or 
am I looking at a new traveler track, ends, blocks and car?

1974 33 (3/4) tonner
Portsmouth, RI

bstrat...@falconnect.com


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Re: Stus-List Odile

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

Yup.  I've been waking up every few hours to check  
just because I know a lot of people in La Paz.  While the eye 
disintegrated after hitting Cabo straight on, the center of the thing 
shifted east and is now directly over La Paz, down to a Cat 2.


Sheesh, I was all provisioned up and spent weeks waiting for a three day 
sailing window to head north and spend the summer there again, but this 
summer it was all northerlies or dead calm in June so I said heck with 
it and stayed over here.  (I didn't want a three day motorboat ride.)  
Now I'm grateful.


That's the seventh storm to hit Cat 4 or greater this season. Sheesh.

Wal



you wrote:

Wal,

Glad you are safe!

Joel



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Re: Stus-List Odile

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hey Wal,I'm just curious.  Why did you decide not to go there? Danny

-- Original Message --
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
To: Rich Knowles , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Odile
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2014 08:32:41 -0400


Wal, Glad you are safe! Joel
On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 9:43 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Sounds like a wise decision!
 
 Rich

 > On Sep 14, 2014, at 21:20, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  
 > wrote:
 >
 > Am I glad I decided not to do the Sea of Cortez this summer!
 >
 > 
 >
 > Wal
 >
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 > page at:
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 -- 
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Re: Stus-List Odile

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Wal,

Glad you are safe!

Joel

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 9:43 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sounds like a wise decision!
>
> Rich
>
> > On Sep 14, 2014, at 21:20, Wally Bryant via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Am I glad I decided not to do the Sea of Cortez this summer!
> >
> > <
> http://www.weather.com/news/update/hurricane-odile-mexico-baja-california-impacts-20140914
> >
> >
> > Wal
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Traveler components

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would second the idea of talking to Guido about the repairs.

Or better yet, talking to him about replacing the traveller. Their new cars are 
supposedly really good.

Marek

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2014 10:15 PM
To: Burt Stratton ; CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler components

Burt,


You should have several options.  

You might consider talking to Guido or Mark at Garhauer Marine.  They may be 
able to make you a new and better car for a reasonable price.


I'm assuming there are sheaves on the ends of the car?  How much room is 
between the sheaves?  Enough to install a padeye with two fasteners?  That 
would hold up to the loads better than a single point attachment system.


Your description doesn't sound like a Harken car.  More like a Merriman or a 
Schaefer.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 8:08 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Took my salvage project to Newport this weekend. Beautiful sail down on 
Saturday. Front rolled through Saturday night and tested my anchor and ground 
tackle at the anchorage near Ida Lewis Yacht club. All worked fine, thank you. 
Cozy first ever evening on the boat with the admiral. Very enjoyable 
considering the stark accommodations. Learned a few things about life aboard 
the new to us 33 footer. Only real issue was the traveler broke over-night. The 
broken component is a stainless steel eye bolt in the center of the car that is 
used to attach the mainsheet block. It goes through the car and is secured by a 
nut on the bottom. I am not sure this is original design or hardware. Can’t 
find a traveler car on the interwebs that looks anything like mine. I assumed 
it was Harken as everything else on the boat is. It is a very simple 4:1 
arrangement with 8 captive rollers that ride on the track. The hole that the 
eyebolt goes through looks like it was threaded once. I ended up using a 5/16 
stainless eye bolt that was a close enough fit but it is definitely a temporary 
solution. Does anyone have a source that might have the correct components or 
am I looking at a new traveler track, ends, blocks and car?



  1974 33 ¾ tonner

  Portsmouth, RI   



  bstrat...@falconnect.com




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