Re: Stus-List surfing c&c INFERNO

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Hi Jimmy
I am impressed with your sailing experience that you share with us here.
Seems to me that you were there with C&C from the beginning...did you work
for the company in the early days?
On Saturday, November 1, 2014, jimmy kelly via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> one of most interesting c&c s  ,was c&c  Inferno A CUSTOM 54FT  built
>  late 60s for chicago sailor ,white hull radical fin ,fairly full stern
> ..great planer   with 25kts wind  and large following seas could get up
> &go..was  passed by her while crewing on twelve meter heritageINFERNO
> was moved to west coast where  she was particularily in her element in san
> francisco area...largest yacht i every saw plane &surf for extended periods
> of timestill quite a memorable experience...
>


-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

pulling the thermostat allows you to winterize the engine on the hard, and
rapidly, with a gallon or two of antifreeze (assuming she's raw water
cooled). I do this every year.

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Lake Superior

On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 3:21 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> +1 to Jake and Burt's comments.  Some possible improvements are as
> follows.
>
> Roll the engine by hand while the plugs are removed...instead of pumping
> it with the starter.  Hitting the starter can/will blow the fogging oil
> out.  You just want to distribute the oil around the cylinders.
>
> Disconnect and plug both the air inlet and exhaust outlet.  Even though I
> fogged mine last year I still got stuck rings in two of the 3 cylinders.
> My machine shop guy is confident that by keeping the boat in the water the
> boat's motion caused the loop seal in  water muffler to push/pull air in
> and out of the engine.  The changes in outdoor temperature, heating and
> cooling the engine, cause condensation on the inside cylinders despite the
> fogging oil.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 1, 2014 3:11 PM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have an Atomic 4. Love it, by the way.
>>
>>
>>
>> Yes, run motor until up to normal operating temp before introducing
>> anti-freeze. Otherwise you are just winterizing the manifold, silencer,
>> pump and riser.
>>
>> I fog with a spray can of engine fog and then take out each spark plug
>> and spray the fogging oil into the top of the cylinder through the spark
>> plug hole. I then crank the engine briefly and re-install the plugs.
>>
>> I change the oil while it is still warm
>>
>> I make sure the batteries are fully charged and full of acid, disconnect
>> them and leave them in the boat. Charged batteries don’t mind the cold at
>> all.
>>
>> I also change my fuel filters while I’m in there but that is just me. I
>> like to set up for turn-key starting in the spring.
>>
>> This all assumes you run with treated gas
>>
>>
>>
>> Burt
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Bernard
>> Toews via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:51 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine.
>>
>> I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone
>> to do it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the
>> engine and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the
>> intake water hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of
>> the water exhaust. However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I
>> should have run the engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would
>> open and then the antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the
>> engine. Since I live in a harsh climate where the temperature can get to
>> -40 degress Celsius, I am concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic
>> manual is completely silent about running the engine until the T-stat opens.
>>
>>  Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4
>> engines do when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if
>> they disconnect them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my
>> boat other than following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual.
>> Do most owners "fog" the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so,
>> do they use SAE HD 30 engine oil.
>>
>> Any advice would be very helpful.
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Elf

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

The inner headsail is a Forestaysail tacked to the deck, the next is a Jib 
tacked to the stem or possibly further out, then the Flying Jib is outboard 
everything tacked to a metal ring that slides out on the sprit. Different 
designers used various setups. The vee shaped sail between gaff and top mast is 
called the Topsail 

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=flying+jibs&FORM=HDRSC2#view=detail&id=FD4BD6DB0AB156ABE62AA86BB6AC6DD6756BB00C&selectedIndex=9
 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "Bill Bina" , "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2014 4:43:36 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Elf 

OK for you history types, I know the inner sail is the jib, and next the flying 
jib, but what's the farthest out jib called? 
Also, the v shaped sail in the area between the mainsail gaff and the mast; 
what's it called? 
Ron 
Wild Cheri 
C&C 30-1 
STL 

 
On Sat, 11/1/14, Bill Bina via CnC-List  wrote: 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights > Elf 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Date: Saturday, November 1, 2014, 1:58 PM 


Elf is very 
much around. A few years 
ago, I escorted her through dense fog on her way to 
Mystic Seaport 
for the wooden boat show because I had RADAR and she 
did not. I am 
not aware of the incident you mention, but we would 
have to know 
the details to draw any conclusions about WHY she 
might have lost 
the case. A kerosene lantern used as an anchor light 
is perfectly 
legal (annex 1 section 11 of international colregs) 
unless there 
is something more to the story. I can tell you that 
seeing all of 
Elf in the dark, regardless of anchor light, would be 
a challenge. 
She is about 35 feet on deck, but the boom hangs far 
over the 
stern, and she has a VERY long bowsprit. LOD is about 
35 feet, and 
LOA is... about 70 feet! 



http://www.cyrg.org/images/graphics/ELFmorph-2.gif 





___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Elf

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Ron,

I think the inner sail is the staysail, then the jib and the outer is the
flying jib.


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C&C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ronald B.
Frerker via CnC-List
Sent: November-01-14 17:44
To: Bill Bina; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Elf

OK for you history types, I know the inner sail is the jib, and next the
flying jib, but what's the farthest out jib called?
Also, the v shaped sail in the area between the mainsail gaff and the mast;
what's it called?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


On Sat, 11/1/14, Bill Bina via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights > Elf
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Saturday, November 1, 2014, 1:58 PM
 
 
 Elf is very
 much around. A few years
   ago, I escorted her through dense fog on her way to  Mystic Seaport
   for the wooden boat show because I had RADAR and she  did not. I am
   not aware of the incident you mention, but we would  have to know
   the details to draw any conclusions about WHY she  might have lost
   the case. A kerosene lantern used as an anchor light  is perfectly
   legal (annex 1 section 11 of international colregs)  unless there
   is something more to the story. I can tell you that  seeing all of
   Elf in the dark, regardless of anchor light, would be  a challenge.
   She is about 35 feet on deck, but the boom hangs far  over the
   stern, and she has a VERY long bowsprit. LOD is about
 35 feet, and
   LOA is... about 70 feet!
 
   
 
   http://www.cyrg.org/images/graphics/ELFmorph-2.gif
 
   
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2015.0.5315 / Virus Database: 4189/8491 - Release Date: 11/01/14


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Elf

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

OK for you history types, I know the inner sail is the jib, and next the flying 
jib, but what's the farthest out jib called?
Also, the v shaped sail in the area between the mainsail gaff and the mast; 
what's it called?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL


On Sat, 11/1/14, Bill Bina via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights > Elf
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Saturday, November 1, 2014, 1:58 PM
 
 
 Elf is very
 much around. A few years
   ago, I escorted her through dense fog on her way to
 Mystic Seaport
   for the wooden boat show because I had RADAR and she
 did not. I am
   not aware of the incident you mention, but we would
 have to know
   the details to draw any conclusions about WHY she
 might have lost
   the case. A kerosene lantern used as an anchor light
 is perfectly
   legal (annex 1 section 11 of international colregs)
 unless there
   is something more to the story. I can tell you that
 seeing all of
   Elf in the dark, regardless of anchor light, would be
 a challenge.
   She is about 35 feet on deck, but the boom hangs far
 over the
   stern, and she has a VERY long bowsprit. LOD is about
 35 feet, and
   LOA is... about 70 feet!
 
   
 
   http://www.cyrg.org/images/graphics/ELFmorph-2.gif
 
   
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL?

[allen via CnC-List]

I can't speak for 37R or XL models, but the 30-2 is another contemporary Ball 
design that caries her beam well aft.  We used to surf easily on the wavelets 
that formed easily in Barnegat Bay NJ where the average depths were 6 to seven 
feet and the heat machine built winds up to 20 knots for the second race every 
Saturday.  Made up a lot of lost time going downwind that way.

Allen Miles
S/V Septima 30-2
Hampton, VA


From: Dave Moore via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 3:20 PM
To: Robert Mazza ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: C&C Mailing List 
Subject: Stus-List Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL?


Any 37R, Plus or XL skippers like to comment on the willingness of their boats 
to surf waves? 
Thank you
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:37 AM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List  
wrote:


  As long as we are comparing "war stories", despite previously maligning IOR 
hulls, the fastest I've gone in a keel boat was on Marauder in the long 
distance race of the 1975 Canada's Cup on Lake St. Clair, when it was blowing 
the shingles off the roof, and we had a #2 on the spinnaker pole. The bow wave 
was breaking at the chain plates, and the speedo was pegged at it's max reading 
of 12 Kts for a long time. That was before GPS, so we really had no idea how 
fast we were going. And that was with a tiller steered boat. Marauder could out 
reach Golden Dazy easily, but couldn't touch her upwind. Dazy took the 
series,3-2, winning all the "inshore" races. 


  Rob Mazza


  On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The 35 MK I does not come close to planning like a modern sport boat. 

The best I have done in flat water is 11 knots boatspeed with 50-60 knots 
on the stern and the working job up. At that speed the stern is sunk nearly to 
water level. In any kind of the waves the boat will surf/plane DOWN the waves, 
but you drop speed on the upside. Max speed I think I have ever seen is 15-16 
knots surfing down 20 footers . The only C&C I have ever seen plane like a 
Laser would be the SR-21. I think the only true “planing” C&C s would be the SR 
series and maybe the newest 30 foot model.



Joe Della Barba

Coquina C&C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
Mazza via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 12:08 PM
To: Dave Moore
Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Planing/Surfing C&C hulls?



Not a definitive analysis, but my recollection is that the older CCA type 
hulls, C&C 35s, 43s, and certainly the 61s were better off the wind than the 
later IOR influenced hulls, which were better upwind than the older boats. 
However, it would be interesting to hear from owners on that subject. 



On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 11:45 AM, Dave Moore  wrote:

  Hi Rob and Hank,

  Did any of the C&C models have a particular strength in surfing (or 
planing) down wind in 15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I recall 
talking to Rob Ball about the importance of prismatic coefficient in surfing 
performance but I was remiss in not asking what C&C models have the strongest 
surfing potential. 

  Thank you

  Dave


  Sent from my iPhone


  On Oct 30, 2014, at 3:14 PM, henry evans via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Rob,



Your knowledge of the history of C&C designs is truly amazing. I 
enjoyed reading your tutorial. 



I never knew Eric was in the kitchen business.  After I and a bunch of 
others left the faltering C&C, I spent 10 years in brick manufacturing which 
landed me in Des Moines, Iowa.  Exiting that business, I bought an 
Architectural Millwork company and two years later a kitchen cabinet 
manufacturing and remodeling company. We ran those two for 20 years, quadrupled 
their size and sold them to retire on our trawler.  And we did a few boat 
interior remodels as well, both power and sail. Our C&C 29 "Illusion" is still 
winning races on Lake Rathbun, in SE Iowa.



We are docked at the Naval Air Station Marina in Jacksonville, FL where 
Ann has been undergoing tests at Mayo Clinic.  As I look out into the mooring 
area I can see the distinctive lines of a C&C 35 MK I.  A few docks is a 
Landfall 38.  It is amazing how many C&C's we see as we travel up and down the 
ICW each year.  They are still the best looking boats on the water !



Cheers from Queen Ann's Revenge,



Hank







On Thursday, October 30, 2014 4:32 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Hi John,



Another interesting mid Cuthbertson and Cassian design, before the 
creation of C&C Yachts. Big George tells me that Psyche II, designed for Bob 
Grant, a future Commodore of RCYC, was essentially a sister to Ivanhoe II which 
proceeded Psyche by a couple of years. Ivanhoe II was design number 64-4 for 
Comm. Ray Engholm, also of RCYC. She was built in aluminium at Engholm's 
aluminium fabrication company Macott

Re: Stus-List Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I've had mine surging 1-2kts as big rollers came up under the transom but I
don't know if I would define it as surfing.  I don't have enough
expierience with other boats to know if that's especially good.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 1, 2014 3:21 PM, "Dave Moore via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Any 37R, Plus or XL skippers like to comment on the willingness of their
> boats to surf waves?
> Thank you
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:37 AM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> As long as we are comparing "war stories", despite previously maligning
> IOR hulls, the fastest I've gone in a keel boat was on *Marauder* in the
> long distance race of the 1975 Canada's Cup on Lake St. Clair, when it was
> blowing the shingles off the roof, and we had a #2 on the spinnaker pole.
> The bow wave was breaking at the chain plates, and the speedo was pegged at
> it's max reading of 12 Kts for a long time. That was before GPS, so we
> really had no idea how fast we were going. And that was with a tiller
> steered boat. *Maraude*r could out reach *Golden Dazy *easily, but
> couldn't touch her upwind. *Dazy* took the series,3-2, winning all the
> "inshore" races.
>
> Rob Mazza
>
> On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  The 35 MK I does not come close to planning like a modern sport boat.
>>
>> The best I have done in flat water is 11 knots boatspeed with 50-60 knots
>> on the stern and the working job up. At that speed the stern is sunk nearly
>> to water level. In any kind of the waves the boat will surf/plane DOWN the
>> waves, but you drop speed on the upside. Max speed I think I have ever seen
>> is 15-16 knots surfing down 20 footers . The only C&C I have ever seen
>> plane like a Laser would be the SR-21. I think the only true "planing" C&C
>> s would be the SR series and maybe the newest 30 foot model.
>>
>>
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba*
>>
>> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
>> Mazza via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, October 31, 2014 12:08 PM
>> *To:* Dave Moore
>> *Cc:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Planing/Surfing C&C hulls?
>>
>>
>>
>> Not a definitive analysis, but my recollection is that the older CCA type
>> hulls, C&C 35s, 43s, and certainly the 61s were better off the wind than
>> the later IOR influenced hulls, which were better upwind than the older
>> boats. However, it would be interesting to hear from owners on that
>> subject.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 11:45 AM, Dave Moore 
>> wrote:
>>
>>  Hi Rob and Hank,
>>
>> Did any of the C&C models have a particular strength in surfing (or
>> planing) down wind in 15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I recall
>> talking to Rob Ball about the importance of prismatic coefficient in
>> surfing performance but I was remiss in not asking what C&C models have the
>> strongest surfing potential.
>>
>> Thank you
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Oct 30, 2014, at 3:14 PM, henry evans via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>   Hi Rob,
>>
>>
>>
>> Your knowledge of the history of C&C designs is truly amazing. I enjoyed
>> reading your tutorial.
>>
>>
>>
>> I never knew Eric was in the kitchen business.  After I and a bunch of
>> others left the faltering C&C, I spent 10 years in brick manufacturing
>> which landed me in Des Moines, Iowa.  Exiting that business, I bought an
>> Architectural Millwork company and two years later a kitchen cabinet
>> manufacturing and remodeling company. We ran those two for 20 years,
>> quadrupled their size and sold them to retire on our trawler.  And we did a
>> few boat interior remodels as well, both power and sail. Our C&C 29
>> "Illusion" is still winning races on Lake Rathbun, in SE Iowa.
>>
>>
>>
>> We are docked at the Naval Air Station Marina in Jacksonville, FL where
>> Ann has been undergoing tests at Mayo Clinic.  As I look out into the
>> mooring area I can see the distinctive lines of a C&C 35 MK I.  A few docks
>> is a Landfall 38.  It is amazing how many C&C's we see as we travel up and
>> down the ICW each year.  They are still the best looking boats on the water
>> !
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers from Queen Ann's Revenge,
>>
>>
>>
>> Hank
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, October 30, 2014 4:32 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi John,
>>
>>
>>
>> Another interesting mid Cuthbertson and Cassian design, before the
>> creation of C&C Yachts. Big George tells me that *Psyche II*, designed
>> for Bob Grant, a future Commodore of RCYC, was essentially a sister to 
>> *Ivanhoe
>> II* which proceeded *Psyche *by a couple of years. *Ivanhoe II *was
>> design number 64-4 for Comm. Ray Engholm, also of RCYC. She was built in
>> aluminium at Engholm's aluminium fabrication company Macotta. In actual
>> fact Erich Bruckmann install

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

+1 to Jake and Burt's comments.  Some possible improvements are as
follows.

Roll the engine by hand while the plugs are removed...instead of pumping it
with the starter.  Hitting the starter can/will blow the fogging oil out.
You just want to distribute the oil around the cylinders.

Disconnect and plug both the air inlet and exhaust outlet.  Even though I
fogged mine last year I still got stuck rings in two of the 3 cylinders.
My machine shop guy is confident that by keeping the boat in the water the
boat's motion caused the loop seal in  water muffler to push/pull air in
and out of the engine.  The changes in outdoor temperature, heating and
cooling the engine, cause condensation on the inside cylinders despite the
fogging oil.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 1, 2014 3:11 PM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I have an Atomic 4. Love it, by the way.
>
>
>
> Yes, run motor until up to normal operating temp before introducing
> anti-freeze. Otherwise you are just winterizing the manifold, silencer,
> pump and riser.
>
> I fog with a spray can of engine fog and then take out each spark plug and
> spray the fogging oil into the top of the cylinder through the spark plug
> hole. I then crank the engine briefly and re-install the plugs.
>
> I change the oil while it is still warm
>
> I make sure the batteries are fully charged and full of acid, disconnect
> them and leave them in the boat. Charged batteries don't mind the cold at
> all.
>
> I also change my fuel filters while I'm in there but that is just me. I
> like to set up for turn-key starting in the spring.
>
> This all assumes you run with treated gas
>
>
>
> Burt
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Bernard
> Toews via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:51 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34
>
>
>
>
>
> I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine.
>
> I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone
> to do it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the
> engine and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the
> intake water hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of
> the water exhaust. However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I
> should have run the engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would
> open and then the antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the
> engine. Since I live in a harsh climate where the temperature can get to
> -40 degress Celsius, I am concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic
> manual is completely silent about running the engine until the T-stat opens.
>
>  Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4
> engines do when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if
> they disconnect them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my
> boat other than following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual.
> Do most owners "fog" the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so,
> do they use SAE HD 30 engine oil.
>
> Any advice would be very helpful.
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL?

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We've occasionally seen 13 + knots on the GPS surfing down waves on a broad
reach on a nice sunny, breezy day.  Not so breezy that we had a reef in...

C&C 37XL Salazar

Ken H.

On 1 November 2014 16:20, Dave Moore via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Any 37R, Plus or XL skippers like to comment on the willingness of their
> boats to surf waves?
> Thank you
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List atomic 4 fogging engine

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

atomic 4 engine fogging ..should have mentioned  run engine  til
warm then add mmm oil to engine cylinders

On Sat, Nov 1, 2014 at 12:46 PM, jimmy kelly 
wrote:

> marvel  magic mystery oil will coat all internals plus keep cylinders from
> sticking...also coat exhaust interally...is old old product  but still used
> by big rig drivers to add to diesel fuel to help with lubrication...many a4
> owners have found quiets engine down substantiallyhave used on a4s for
> years &in diesel car engines with good success
>
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Only thing I can add is that I would never run tap water through an engine.  I 
try to always use distilled water antifreeze mix.


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Chuck S via CnC-List  
Date: 11/01/2014  3:35 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Bernard Toews ,"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34 
 
Bernard,
Your antifreeze should be fine if your engine has the typical heat exchanger.  
With the heat exchanger, raw water is drawn from a thuhull and a strainer and 
the raw water pump circulates that water through a heat exhanger, is injected 
into the mixing elbow of the exhaust hose where it mixes and goes into a lift 
mufler where it quiets and cools the exhaust gasses.  Back to the heat 
exchanger:  a separate pump pushes a 50:50 mix of tap water and glycol through 
the engine walls and through the thermostat and through the heat exchanger.  
The thermostat throttles the antifreeze water and not the raw water.  If your 
engine is missing the heat exchanger, you have a raw water cooled engine, which 
means you do have to warm it up before inducing the antifreeze protection. 


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2014 2:51:16 PM
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34



I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine.

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone to do 
it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the engine 
and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the intake water 
hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I should have run the 
engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would open and then the 
antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the engine. Since I live in a 
harsh climate where the temperature can get to -40 degress Celsius, I am 
concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens.

 Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4 engines do 
when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if they disconnect 
them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my boat other than 
following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual. Do most owners "fog" 
the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 30 
engine oil.

Any advice would be very helpful.


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List atomic 4 fogging engine

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

marvel  magic mystery oil will coat all internals plus keep cylinders from
sticking...also coat exhaust interally...is old old product  but still used
by big rig drivers to add to diesel fuel to help with lubrication...many a4
owners have found quiets engine down substantiallyhave used on a4s for
years &in diesel car engines with good success
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Bernard, 
Your antifreeze should be fine if your engine has the typical heat exchanger . 
With the heat exchanger, raw water is drawn from a thuhull and a strainer and 
the raw water pump circulates that water through a heat exhanger, is injected 
into the mixing elbow of the exhaust hose where it mixes and goes into a lift 
mufler where it quiets and cools the exhaust gasses. Back to the heat 
exchanger: a separate pump pushes a 50:50 mix of tap water and glycol through 
the engine walls and through the thermostat and through the heat exchanger. The 
thermostat throttles the antifreeze water and not the raw water. If your engine 
is missing the heat exchanger, you have a raw water cooled engine, which means 
you do have to warm it up before inducing the antifreeze protection. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2014 2:51:16 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34 





I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine. 

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone to do 
it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the engine 
and putting in plumber's anti freeze. I did this by loosening the intake water 
hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I should have run the 
engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would open and then the 
antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the engine. Since I live in a 
harsh climate where the temperature can get to -40 degress Celsius, I am 
concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens. 

Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4 engines do 
when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if they disconnect 
them etc. Also, what else should be done to winterize my boat other than 
following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual. Do most owners "fog" 
the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 30 
engine oil. 

Any advice would be very helpful. 

___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Most of the plumbing antifreeze that is sold around here is mainly denatured 
alcohol, and alcohol can be hard on the rubber parts in your water pump. If you 
can find plumbing antifreeze based on propylene glycol it should be ok. If you 
can't find it, then regular engine antifreeze is designed to be rubber 
compatable, and I would at least get some in as far as the water pump, 
environment or not.  
For now I am using the last of my low tox propylene glycol based engine 
antifreeze. It is no longer for sale around here, so when that is gone I will 
just use regular engine antifreeze. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bernard Toews via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:51 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34




  I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine. 

  I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone to 
do it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the engine 
and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the intake water 
hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I should have run the 
engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would open and then the 
antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the engine. Since I live in a 
harsh climate where the temperature can get to -40 degress Celsius, I am 
concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens.

   Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4 engines 
do when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if they 
disconnect them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my boat other 
than following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual. Do most owners 
"fog" the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 
30 engine oil. 

  Any advice would be very helpful.



--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Surfing C&C hulls 37R, plus or XL?

[Dave Moore via CnC-List]

Any 37R, Plus or XL skippers like to comment on the willingness of their boats 
to surf waves? 
Thank you
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 31, 2014, at 11:37 AM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List  
wrote:

> As long as we are comparing "war stories", despite previously maligning IOR 
> hulls, the fastest I've gone in a keel boat was on Marauder in the long 
> distance race of the 1975 Canada's Cup on Lake St. Clair, when it was blowing 
> the shingles off the roof, and we had a #2 on the spinnaker pole. The bow 
> wave was breaking at the chain plates, and the speedo was pegged at it's max 
> reading of 12 Kts for a long time. That was before GPS, so we really had no 
> idea how fast we were going. And that was with a tiller steered boat. 
> Marauder could out reach Golden Dazy easily, but couldn't touch her upwind. 
> Dazy took the series,3-2, winning all the "inshore" races.
> 
> Rob Mazza
> 
> On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> The 35 MK I does not come close to planning like a modern sport boat.
> 
> The best I have done in flat water is 11 knots boatspeed with 50-60 knots on 
> the stern and the working job up. At that speed the stern is sunk nearly to 
> water level. In any kind of the waves the boat will surf/plane DOWN the 
> waves, but you drop speed on the upside. Max speed I think I have ever seen 
> is 15-16 knots surfing down 20 footers . The only C&C I have ever seen plane 
> like a Laser would be the SR-21. I think the only true “planing” C&C s would 
> be the SR series and maybe the newest 30 foot model.
> 
>  
> 
> Joe Della Barba
> 
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert 
> Mazza via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 12:08 PM
> To: Dave Moore
> Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Planing/Surfing C&C hulls?
> 
>  
> 
> Not a definitive analysis, but my recollection is that the older CCA type 
> hulls, C&C 35s, 43s, and certainly the 61s were better off the wind than the 
> later IOR influenced hulls, which were better upwind than the older boats. 
> However, it would be interesting to hear from owners on that subject.
> 
>  
> 
> On Fri, Oct 31, 2014 at 11:45 AM, Dave Moore  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rob and Hank,
> 
> Did any of the C&C models have a particular strength in surfing (or planing) 
> down wind in 15 to 20 knots true wind speed? Years ago I recall talking to 
> Rob Ball about the importance of prismatic coefficient in surfing performance 
> but I was remiss in not asking what C&C models have the strongest surfing 
> potential. 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> On Oct 30, 2014, at 3:14 PM, henry evans via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Rob,
> 
>  
> 
> Your knowledge of the history of C&C designs is truly amazing. I enjoyed 
> reading your tutorial. 
> 
>  
> 
> I never knew Eric was in the kitchen business.  After I and a bunch of others 
> left the faltering C&C, I spent 10 years in brick manufacturing which landed 
> me in Des Moines, Iowa.  Exiting that business, I bought an Architectural 
> Millwork company and two years later a kitchen cabinet manufacturing and 
> remodeling company. We ran those two for 20 years, quadrupled their size and 
> sold them to retire on our trawler.  And we did a few boat interior remodels 
> as well, both power and sail. Our C&C 29 "Illusion" is still winning races on 
> Lake Rathbun, in SE Iowa.
> 
>  
> 
> We are docked at the Naval Air Station Marina in Jacksonville, FL where Ann 
> has been undergoing tests at Mayo Clinic.  As I look out into the mooring 
> area I can see the distinctive lines of a C&C 35 MK I.  A few docks is a 
> Landfall 38.  It is amazing how many C&C's we see as we travel up and down 
> the ICW each year.  They are still the best looking boats on the water !
> 
>  
> 
> Cheers from Queen Ann's Revenge,
> 
>  
> 
> Hank
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> On Thursday, October 30, 2014 4:32 PM, Robert Mazza via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  
> 
> Hi John,
> 
>  
> 
> Another interesting mid Cuthbertson and Cassian design, before the creation 
> of C&C Yachts. Big George tells me that Psyche II, designed for Bob Grant, a 
> future Commodore of RCYC, was essentially a sister to Ivanhoe II which 
> proceeded Psyche by a couple of years. Ivanhoe II was design number 64-4 for 
> Comm. Ray Engholm, also of RCYC. She was built in aluminium at Engholm's 
> aluminium fabrication company Macotta. In actual fact Erich Bruckmann 
> installed the interior in Ivanhoe after he left Metro Marine and had gone 
> into the kitchen installation business. It was probability the building the 
> interior on Ivanhoe which kept him in the boat business. The building of the 
> interior at the same time as the hull led to all sorts of problems with the 
> aluminium welds in the hull, but that's another story!  Psyche was design 
> number 66-4, and followed the Redwing 30, Inferno II, and Red Jacket, and 
> immediately pre

Re: Stus-List Running Lights > Elf

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Elf has been completely restored and is currently located at the Chesapeake Bay 
Maritime Museum in St. Michaels, Maryland. She is gorgeous! Her owner set up a 
foundation to keep her going and that she does she is the motivation for a 
Mid May traditional boat race across the Bay from Annapolis. The tradition part 
is the skipper starts on land and rows out to the boat, sails across the Bay, 
and then rows to the finish area at CBMM. Cute!

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Bill Bina via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:58 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights > Elf


  Elf is very much around. A few years ago, I escorted her through dense fog on 
her way to Mystic Seaport for the wooden boat show because I had RADAR and she 
did not. I am not aware of the incident you mention, but we would have to know 
the details to draw any conclusions about WHY she might have lost the case. A 
kerosene lantern used as an anchor light is perfectly legal (annex 1 section 11 
of international colregs) unless there is something more to the story. I can 
tell you that seeing all of Elf in the dark, regardless of anchor light, would 
be a challenge. She is about 35 feet on deck, but the boom hangs far over the 
stern, and she has a VERY long bowsprit. LOD is about 35 feet, and LOA is... 
about 70 feet!

  http://www.cyrg.org/images/graphics/ELFmorph-2.gif

  Bill Bina

  On 11/1/2014 1:25 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:

No one cares until someone gets hurt.

I recall a boat built in the 1800s with no electrical system being rammed 
at night while anchored. The powerboat skipper that hit them sued them for 
using a kerosene anchor light and IIRC the wood boat lost L

I think the boats name is Elf and she is still around.



Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com

Coquina 





--


  ___
  This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Bernard,

If raw water cooled it is recommneded to remove 
thermostat beofre anti-freeze step.


See note at cooling section.
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=525

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

racing tomorrow, forecast is for 20 knots S/E wind, we can hope



At 11:51 AM 01/11/2014, you wrote:


I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine.

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year 
rather than hire someone to do it. I tried to 
follow the instructions in the manual for 
draining the engine and putting in plumber's 
anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the 
intake water hose and running the motor until 
the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems 
that I should have run the engine until it was 
warm so that the thermostat would open and then 
the antifreeze would have been circulated 
throughout the engine. Since I live in a harsh 
climate where the temperature can get to -40 
degress Celsius, I am concerned about my engine 
freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens.


 Also, I would like to know what other owners 
of C&C's with Atomic 4 engines do when they 
winterize in terms of taking out the batteries 
or if they disconnect them etc.  Also, what 
else should be done to winterize my boat other 
than following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C 
Owners's Manual. Do most owners "fog" the engine 
by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 30 engine oil.


Any advice would be very helpful.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including 
unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I have an Atomic 4. Love it, by the way. 

 

Yes, run motor until up to normal operating temp before introducing 
anti-freeze. Otherwise you are just winterizing the manifold, silencer, pump 
and riser. 

I fog with a spray can of engine fog and then take out each spark plug and 
spray the fogging oil into the top of the cylinder through the spark plug hole. 
I then crank the engine briefly and re-install the plugs.

I change the oil while it is still warm

I make sure the batteries are fully charged and full of acid, disconnect them 
and leave them in the boat. Charged batteries don’t mind the cold at all.

I also change my fuel filters while I’m in there but that is just me. I like to 
set up for turn-key starting in the spring.

This all assumes you run with treated gas

 

Burt 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bernard 
Toews via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

 



I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine. 

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone to do 
it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the engine 
and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the intake water 
hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I should have run the 
engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would open and then the 
antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the engine. Since I live in a 
harsh climate where the temperature can get to -40 degress Celsius, I am 
concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens.

 Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4 engines do 
when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if they disconnect 
them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my boat other than 
following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual. Do most owners "fog" 
the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 30 
engine oil. 

Any advice would be very helpful.

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Running Lights > Elf

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Elf is very much around. A few years
  ago, I escorted her through dense fog on her way to Mystic Seaport
  for the wooden boat show because I had RADAR and she did not. I am
  not aware of the incident you mention, but we would have to know
  the details to draw any conclusions about WHY she might have lost
  the case. A kerosene lantern used as an anchor light is perfectly
  legal (annex 1 section 11 of international colregs) unless there
  is something more to the story. I can tell you that seeing all of
  Elf in the dark, regardless of anchor light, would be a challenge.
  She is about 35 feet on deck, but the boom hangs far over the
  stern, and she has a VERY long bowsprit. LOD is about 35 feet, and
  LOA is... about 70 feet!
  
  http://www.cyrg.org/images/graphics/ELFmorph-2.gif
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 11/1/2014 1:25 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
  
No
one cares until someone gets hurt.
I
recall a boat built in the 1800s with no electrical system
being rammed at night while anchored. The powerboat skipper
that hit them sued them for using a kerosene anchor light
and IIRC the wood boat lost L
I
think the boats name is Elf and she is still around.
 

  Joe
  Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com
Coquina

  


  


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bernard,

 

I can’t answer for the T-stat issue, but as far as fogging is concerned I use 
fogging oil.  It comes in a spray can and a single can will last a long, long 
time.  It works on both diesel and gas engines.  It is far more precise than 
pouring oil into the carb.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

“Midnight Mistress”

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bernard 
Toews via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

 



I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine. 

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone to do 
it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the engine 
and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the intake water 
hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of the water exhaust. 
However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I should have run the 
engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would open and then the 
antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the engine. Since I live in a 
harsh climate where the temperature can get to -40 degress Celsius, I am 
concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic manual is completely silent 
about running the engine until the T-stat opens.

 Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4 engines do 
when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if they disconnect 
them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my boat other than 
following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual. Do most owners "fog" 
the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so, do they use SAE HD 30 
engine oil. 

Any advice would be very helpful.

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

I have both my switch and pump mounted to a stainless steel plate.  It's "L"
shaped and secured with two screws at the top of the bilge.  It's easy to
remove.  No more stretching to reach a couple of screws in the deep bilge on
the 35-3.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
"Midnight Mistress"
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Metallurgy

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Winterizing my 1979 C&C 34

[Bernard Toews via CnC-List]

I own a 1979 34 C&C which has an Atomic 4 engine.

I decided to winterize my boat myself this year rather than hire someone to
do it. I tried to follow the instructions in the manual for draining the
engine and putting in plumber's anti freeze.  I did this by loosening the
intake water hose and running the motor until the anti-freeze ran out of
the water exhaust. However, from what I read on the Net, it seems that I
should have run the engine until it was warm so that the thermostat would
open and then the antifreeze would have been circulated throughout the
engine. Since I live in a harsh climate where the temperature can get to
-40 degress Celsius, I am concerned about my engine freezing. The Atomic
manual is completely silent about running the engine until the T-stat opens.

 Also, I would like to know what other owners of C&C's with Atomic 4
engines do when they winterize in terms of taking out the batteries or if
they disconnect them etc.  Also, what else should be done to winterize my
boat other than following the Atomic 4 manual and the C&C Owners's Manual.
Do most owners "fog" the engine by pouring oil into the carburetor. If so,
do they use SAE HD 30 engine oil.

Any advice would be very helpful.
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Coat the screws w Lanacote. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2014 2:22:54 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Metallurgy 

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge. Much easier than 
trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge. 

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues? 

Tom Buscaglia 
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40 
Vashon WA 
P 206.463.9200 



___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Metallurgy

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Yes, in salt water.
Not so much in fresh water.

You can use insulating washers with shoulders, if you can find them, or 
something else to insulate the stainless from the aluminum. It doesn't 
matter that both parts (stainless and aluminum) are in the water if there is 
no electrical connection between them.


Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 

To: 
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 2:22 PM
Subject: Stus-List Metallurgy


I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower 
the plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much 
easier than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.


My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of 
page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List WINDWARD PASSAGE

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

although not a c&c  speaking of large yachts, a 70 plus ft wood yacht
 designed by Guy Gurney, WINDWARD PASSAGE could  surf for extended periods
given the right conditions.she SURFED past  both RUNNINGTIDE a s&s 63,,&
C&C 66 PHANTOM DURING a race  inSORC in florida...stern configuration
&right wave & wind conditions  seem to dictate  although did not win
because of handicap...
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Metallurgy

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I am planning on mounting my new auto bilge switch to a plate then lower the 
plate into the bilge and mounting it to the side of the bilge.  Much easier 
than trying to mount to the bottom of the bilge.

My question is if I use an aluminum plate and mount it with stainless 
fasteners, will I have any corrosion issues?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200



___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List surfing c&c INFERNO

[jimmy kelly via CnC-List]

one of most interesting c&c s  ,was c&c  Inferno A CUSTOM 54FT  built  late
60s for chicago sailor ,white hull radical fin ,fairly full stern ..great
planer   with 25kts wind  and large following seas could get up &go..was
 passed by her while crewing on twelve meter heritageINFERNO was moved
to west coast where  she was particularily in her element in san francisco
area...largest yacht i every saw plane &surf for extended periods of
timestill quite a memorable experience...
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

No one cares until someone gets hurt.

I recall a boat built in the 1800s with no electrical system being rammed at 
night while anchored. The powerboat skipper that hit them sued them for using a 
kerosene anchor light and IIRC the wood boat lost :(

I think the boats name is Elf and she is still around.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2014 10:39 AM
To: Bill Bina - gmail; CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

 

We may be overthinking the LED bulb and running lights, brightness, visibilty, 
distance seen, curve of the earth, CG certification, legal liability, etc.  But 
that's why this list is so fun. 

 

 

Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

 

  _  

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 10:08:48 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

 

It is also important to consider mounting height when calculating how far away 
something can be seen. You lose distance due to curvature of the earth. Two 6 
foot tall men standing on shores 6 miles across from each other cannot see each 
others heads, even without throwing even an inch of wave height into the mix. 
The "high spot" between them is only 3 miles from their respective vantage 
point. :-) 

Bill Bina




On 10/31/2014 9:50 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

FYI – the running lights standard on the 1973 35 MK I, if you can find them, 
are sold as “not approved for new construction”, so I think they do not meet 
modern standards either. I long ago switched to an Aquasignal 25 mounted on the 
pulpit which is MUCH more visible. 

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 5:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

 

Yes, you must comply with the regulations. NO, if you modify your existing 
light by changing from the original bulb as supplied with the fixture, it is no 
longer  legally CERTIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER as being in compliance. If you 
end up in court, you will have the burden of proving that the light you were 
using complied with the regulations. It will no longer be accepted as complying 
simply by virtue of being certified. It doesn't matter at all if your light now 
exceeds the requirements by 2 or 3 times the visibility. It is no longer 
CERTIFIED. People can try and make this as complicated and convoluted as they 
like, but the facts don't care. Meeting the requirements is not the same thing 
as CERTIFIED as meeting the requirements. 

Bill Bina

On 10/31/2014 12:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:

The USCG minutia is contained in 33CFR84. You will find it in Annex I of the 
COLREGS, which you are required to have on your boat if you have a Captain's 
License. And which you probably have on you boat in any event.

 

33CFR88.05 says: The operator of each self-propelled vessel 12 meters (39.4') 
or more in length shall carry on board and maintain for ready reference a copy 
of the Inland Navigation Rules.

 

As has been pointed out before, a navigation light is certified by the light 
manufacturer to comply with the USCG requirements. IF YOU MANUFACTURE A BOAT 
FOR SALE IN THE USA YOU MAY ONLY USE A CERTIFIED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. If you are a 
boat owner, or building a boat for your own use, you can use any lighting 
device or bulb you chose, provided that the lights meet the requirements of 
COLREGS RULE 22 (visibility) and RULE 23 (light patterns).

 

Raise your hand if you have one of the Davis LED anchor lights that plug into a 
cigarette lighter, or a battery operated Perko anchor light you keep as a 
backup. Both meet COLREGS 22 for boats less than 39 feet, but neither are 
certified by the manufacturer. At least mine aren't marked as certified.

 

I can find no direct reference to the nav lights required in 46CFR Subchapter C 
covering uninspected passenger vessels of less than 100 tons carrying 6 or 
fewer passengers, other than the requirement to comply with COLREGS 22 & 23.

 

For small inspected passenger vessels up to 100 tons carrying 100 or fewer 
passengers, 46CFR Subchapter T paragraph 183.420 says: All vessels must have 
navigation lights that are in compliance with the applicable sections of the 
International and Inland Navigation rules, except that a vessel of more than 
198 meters (65') in length must also have navigation lights that meet UL 1104 
"Standards for Marine Navigation Lights" or other standard specified by the 
Commandant.

 

Bottom line is that as a Captain you must comply with the light visibility and 
patterns sp

Re: Stus-List Jack stands

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Burt, you should probably go with 7 stands.  That's the recommendation for my 
Viking 33.

I searched and searched.  I need the number 1 stands for my boat.  There are a 
few sources fur number 2 stands I found.  Best if which was on CL down in 
Westport, ma.

Also, mass marine parts in Quincy ma has some number 2s for sale.

Check out the Brownell site or the scaffold site to figure out what you should 
have for size and number

Danny


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Burt Stratton via CnC-List  
Date: 11/01/2014  8:57 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Jack stands 
 
I will be hauling my boat soon and will have it shipped to my house for the 
winter (I usually keep it at the marina over the winter). This year I need to 
get some things done to it that I can’t do at the yard. I am in need of (5) 
jackstands (one for the bow) just for the winter. I have no plans to do this 
again in the foreseeable future. Does anyone in the Rhode Island or 
Massachusetts areas have a suggestion for a source?
 
Burt
1974 33 ¾ tonner
Portsmouth, RI
Storing in Walpole, MA
 ___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

We may be overthinking the LED bulb and running lights, brightness, visibilty, 
distance seen, curve of the earth, CG certification, legal liability, etc. But 
that's why this list is so fun. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 10:08:48 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs 

It is also important to consider mounting height when calculating how far away 
something can be seen. You lose distance due to curvature of the earth. Two 6 
foot tall men standing on shores 6 miles across from each other cannot see each 
others heads, even without throwing even an inch of wave height into the mix. 
The "high spot" between them is only 3 miles from their respective vantage 
point. :-) 

Bill Bina 

On 10/31/2014 9:50 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote: 





FYI – the running lights standard on the 1973 35 MK I, if you can find them, 
are sold as “not approved for new construction”, so I think they do not meet 
modern standards either. I long ago switched to an Aquasignal 25 mounted on the 
pulpit which is MUCH more visible. 




Joe Della Barba 

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I 





From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2014 5:48 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs 





Yes, you must comply with the regulations. NO, if you modify your existing 
light by changing from the original bulb as supplied with the fixture, it is no 
longer legally CERTIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER as being in compliance. If you end 
up in court, you will have the burden of proving that the light you were using 
complied with the regulations. It will no longer be accepted as complying 
simply by virtue of being certified. It doesn't matter at all if your light now 
exceeds the requirements by 2 or 3 times the visibility. It is no longer 
CERTIFIED. People can try and make this as complicated and convoluted as they 
like, but the facts don't care. Meeting the requirements is not the same thing 
as CERTIFIED as meeting the requirements. 

Bill Bina 

On 10/31/2014 12:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote: 





The USCG minutia is contained in 33CFR84. You will find it in Annex I of the 
COLREGS, which you are required to have on your boat if you have a Captain's 
License. And which you probably have on you boat in any event. 





33CFR88.05 says: The operator of each self-propelled vessel 12 meters (39.4') 
or more in length shall carry on board and maintain for ready reference a copy 
of the Inland Navigation Rules. 





As has been pointed out before, a navigation light is certified by the light 
manufacturer to comply with the USCG requirements. IF YOU MANUFACTURE A BOAT 
FOR SALE IN THE USA YOU MAY ONLY USE A CERTIFIED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. If you are a 
boat owner, or building a boat for your own use, you can use any lighting 
device or bulb you chose, provided that the lights meet the requirements of 
COLREGS RULE 22 (visibility) and RULE 23 (light patterns). 





Raise your hand if you have one of the Davis LED anchor lights that plug into a 
cigarette lighter, or a battery operated Perko anchor light you keep as a 
backup. Both meet COLREGS 22 for boats less than 39 feet, but neither are 
certified by the manufacturer. At least mine aren't marked as certified. 





I can find no direct reference to the nav lights required in 46CFR Subchapter C 
covering uninspected passenger vessels of less than 100 tons carrying 6 or 
fewer passengers, other than the requirement to comply with COLREGS 22 & 23. 





For small inspected passenger vessels up to 100 tons carrying 100 or fewer 
passengers, 46CFR Subchapter T paragraph 183.420 says: All vessels must have 
navigation lights that are in compliance with the applicable sections of the 
International and Inland Navigation rules, except that a vessel of more than 
198 meters (65') in length must also have navigation lights that meet UL 1104 
"Standards for Marine Navigation Lights" or other standard specified by the 
Commandant. 





Bottom line is that as a Captain you must comply with the light visibility and 
patterns specified in the COLREGS, and you must have a copy of the current 
COLREGS aboard. 





If you don't have a captain's license and you boat is less than 12 meters you 
must comply with the COLREGS. 





And if the boat is over 12 meters you need to comply and carry a copy of the 
COLREGS. 





I could not find anything in the 2000+ pages of Federal Regulation I got while 
obtaining my Masters License that indicates you need to use a certified light, 
use the same type of bulb, or buy the same bulb used in building your boat - 
but you must comply with COLREGS 22&23. 





Rick Brass 

Sent from my iPad 



On Oct 30, 2014, at 21:38, Russ & Melody via CnC-List < cnc-list@

Re: Stus-List Jack stands

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Maybe your marina would rent them to you? Especially if they have extra and you 
will returning next year. 
Love the plan to get the boat home. Wish I had done that with mine. Not to save 
money, but to have it close to work on, take measurements, etc. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"  
Sent: Saturday, November 1, 2014 8:57:17 AM 
Subject: Stus-List Jack stands 



I will be hauling my boat soon and will have it shipped to my house for the 
winter (I usually keep it at the marina over the winter). This year I need to 
get some things done to it that I can’t do at the yard. I am in need of (5) 
jackstands (one for the bow) just for the winter. I have no plans to do this 
again in the foreseeable future. Does anyone in the Rhode Island or 
Massachusetts areas have a suggestion for a source? 



Burt 

1974 33 ¾ tonner 

Portsmouth, RI 

Storing in Walpole, MA 



___ 
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album 

Email address: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at: 
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Jack stands

[Burt Stratton via CnC-List]

I will be hauling my boat soon and will have it shipped to my house for the
winter (I usually keep it at the marina over the winter). This year I need
to get some things done to it that I can’t do at the yard. I am in need of
(5) jackstands (one for the bow) just for the winter. I have no plans to do
this again in the foreseeable future. Does anyone in the Rhode Island or
Massachusetts areas have a suggestion for a source?

 

Burt

1974 33 ¾ tonner

Portsmouth, RI

Storing in Walpole, MA 

 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com