Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I pick blocked exhaust elbow for $500.

Trace the water flow, pull hoses, look in orifices. I had to drill out the
90* fitting between the engine and the exhaust because it was totally
blocked with hard crud.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 November 2014 at 13:02, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan,
>
>
> Welcome to our C&c family!  You may be able to tighten the bolts along the
> toe rail.  It tales 2 ppeople - one inside, one out.  There is butyl tape
> in the joint.
>
> Overheating could be a stuck impeller part or blocked exhaust elbow
> (common on Yanmars).
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> On Saturday, November 22, 2014, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the
>> cylinder head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the
>> water passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than
>> pulling and still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you
>> can check the cylinders and whatever else you may think may be wrong.
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>> *To:* C&C List ; Dennis C.
>> *Sent:* Saturday, November 22, 2014 2:21 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions
>>
>> To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while
>> keeping the engine onboard.  I had a mechinist who was very familiar with
>> Yanmar tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar.
>> According to him the bearings are significantly over built.  So, assuming
>> you keep up with the oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not
>> ever going to be needed.
>>
>> Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you
>> might need to pull the engine for is stuck rings.  I've had good luck
>> getting rings unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine.
>> So have a blast working the top end as much as tou like.
>>
>> You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that
>> would have made getting the engine out a very big job.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Welcome, Dan
>>>
>>> First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with
>>> butyl rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from
>>> above and tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the
>>> butyl out.
>>>
>>> I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure
>>> doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain
>>> Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the
>>> toe rail/deck joint.  Eventually it will seal most leakage.
>>>
>>> As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.
>>> Use your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig
>>> a purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.
>>> Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts
>>> from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the
>>> compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it
>>> outboard.
>>>
>>> Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before
>>> pulling the engine.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school
 using 14’ Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+
 years of hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and
 a 1977 26’ C&C (my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the
 C&C 4 months.  The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more
 sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this
 winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating
 when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with
 the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill
 holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m
 a mechanic. Sorry babbling.

 Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a
 blast, she sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming
 spring.  I’ll sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest)
 while I work on the Yanmar.

 I do have a couple questions if I may:


- I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides
aft are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length 
 of
the boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m
wondering if I can just re-seal the l

Re: Stus-List keel bolts

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Sounds like a pro job to me. I would talk to Blackline and get their
opinion.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 November 2014 at 12:02, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List  wrote:

> I blasted out to Victoria to escape the frigid Alberta cold for a week or
> so. So I thought a little biking and messing around in the bilge would be
> fun. The water in the bilge was a bit salty and the mild steel plates below
> the keel bolts were badly corroded so I replaced some of the plates with
> some 3/8” 316SS. I cleaned out the bilge and watched. When I removed the
> bolts, one at a time :-) there was no seepage around the bolts - a good
> sign I think. However there are some cracks in the sump area between the
> keel bolts and these are seeping water at about 100ml/day. I didn’t go out
> for a sail so assume there would be more water ingress when the keel is
> under some stress. Is there some way to seal these cracks without dropping
> the keel? What is the thickness from the bottom of the bilge to the top of
> the keel stub? Can I just pour some epoxy in the the sump area?
>
> Thanks!!
>
> *Bill Hoyne*
> Mithrandir
> ’74 C&C35 MkII
> in Victoria,BC
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 106, Issue 63

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Josh

There's a pretty good look at it here 
https://www.flickr.com/photos/37365243@N00/7544710028/in/set-72157629350057893


Probably a few other in the folder on flickr as well.

I think this was done with off the shelf components, though I am not 
sure.  I have seen similar stuff at Fisheries Supply among their SS deck parts.


http://www.fisheriessupply.com/marine-hardware/tubing-handrails-rail-and-canvas-top-fittings/rail-fittings-and-mounting-brackets

Tom B




Message: 5
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 14:24:07 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: Tom Buscaglia , "C&C List"

Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Tom can I get pictures of the stainless?   Do you know where your stainless
rails came from?  I'm looking to have them made by White Water Marine Inc.
On Nov 22, 2014 1:13 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  Josh
>
> I'll check too.  But probably not til next week.  SHe's in the shop
> getting the dripless bearing dripless again and a full tune up.
>
> BTW, my PO replaced the deck handrails with stainless.  My wife Lynn, who
> handles all the bright work, was very pleased!
>
> Tom B
>
> At 09:00 AM 11/22/2014, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 11:39:52 -0500
> From: Ron Ricci 
> To: "'Josh Muckley'" , "'C&C List'"
>  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal
> Message-ID: <027601d00672$f1157ca0$d34075e0$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Josh,
>
>  If helpful, I'll take a look at mine (1991).  It may not be for a few
> weeks.
>
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ronald V. Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
>
>  < mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com >
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
> From: Josh Muckley [ mailto:muckl...@gmail.com ]
> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 4:50 AM
> To: C&C List
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal
>
>  Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on
> the
> port handrail?  It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of the
> head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon
> headliner and the head headliner.
>
> I am fine pulling the head's headliner except that it looks like it is
> laminated to the cabin top (near the windows at a minimum).  Same with the
> significantly larger salon headliner.  I think an access hole and plug are
> in order but where best to put one is the question.
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
*


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dan,


Welcome to our C&c family!  You may be able to tighten the bolts along the
toe rail.  It tales 2 ppeople - one inside, one out.  There is butyl tape
in the joint.

Overheating could be a stuck impeller part or blocked exhaust elbow (common
on Yanmars).

Joel
35/3
Annapolis

On Saturday, November 22, 2014, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the
> cylinder head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the
> water passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than
> pulling and still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you
> can check the cylinders and whatever else you may think may be wrong.
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> 
> *To:* C&C List  ; 
> Dennis
> C. 
> *Sent:* Saturday, November 22, 2014 2:21 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions
>
> To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while
> keeping the engine onboard.  I had a mechinist who was very familiar with
> Yanmar tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar.
> According to him the bearings are significantly over built.  So, assuming
> you keep up with the oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not
> ever going to be needed.
>
> Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you
> might need to pull the engine for is stuck rings.  I've had good luck
> getting rings unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine.
> So have a blast working the top end as much as tou like.
>
> You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that
> would have made getting the engine out a very big job.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  > wrote:
>
>> Welcome, Dan
>>
>> First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with
>> butyl rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from
>> above and tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the
>> butyl out.
>>
>> I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure
>> doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain
>> Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the
>> toe rail/deck joint.  Eventually it will seal most leakage.
>>
>> As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.  Use
>> your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig a
>> purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.
>> Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts
>> from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the
>> compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it
>> outboard.
>>
>> Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before
>> pulling the engine.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List" > > wrote:
>>
>>> I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using
>>> 14’ Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years
>>> of hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a
>>> 1977 26’ C&C (my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the
>>> C&C 4 months.  The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more
>>> sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this
>>> winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating
>>> when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with
>>> the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill
>>> holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m
>>> a mechanic. Sorry babbling.
>>>
>>> Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast,
>>> she sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring.  I’ll
>>> sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on
>>> the Yanmar.
>>>
>>> I do have a couple questions if I may:
>>>
>>>
>>>- I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft
>>>are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of 
>>> the
>>>boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m wondering 
>>> if
>>>I can just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at
>>>this point and replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point.  What
>>>sealant would work best?
>>>- Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine -
>>>weight under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can’t imagine trying to lift 
>>> it
>>>out using just manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines?  My
>>>idea is to use the boom protected of course and

Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

A relatively easy way to check further about your engine - pull the cylinder 
head. My 2QM15 had a crack between one of the valve seats and the water 
passage. Replacing the head was not cheap, but a lot easier than pulling and 
still only having to replace the head. Once the head is off you can check the 
cylinders and whatever else you may think may be wrong. 

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
  To: C&C List ; Dennis C. 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 2:21 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions


  To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while keeping 
the engine onboard.  I had a mechinist who was very familiar with Yanmar tell 
me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar.  According to him 
the bearings are significantly over built.  So, assuming you keep up with the 
oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not ever going to be needed.  

  Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you might 
need to pull the engine for is stuck rings.  I've had good luck getting rings 
unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine.  So have a blast 
working the top end as much as tou like.  

  You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that would 
have made getting the engine out a very big job.

  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C&C 37+
  Solomons, MD

  On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Welcome, Dan

First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with 
butyl rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from 
above and tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the butyl 
out.  

I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure 
doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain Tolleys 
Creeping Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the toe rail/deck 
joint.  Eventually it will seal most leakage.

As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.  Use 
your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig a 
purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.  Tie 
the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts from 
the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the compartment then 
lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it outboard.

Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before 
pulling the engine.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

  I'm relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 
14' Holders, then 21' day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of 
hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23' Ericson and a 1977 26' 
C&C (my favorite).  I've owned the Ericson about a year and the C&C 4 months.  
The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know 
what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how 
to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got 
a very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha 
on the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the 
maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I'm a mechanic. Sorry babbling. 


  Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, 
she sails easily and I can't wait to get her out this coming spring.  I'll sail 
the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar.


  I do have a couple questions if I may:


a.. I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft 
are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat 
- I know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I'm wondering if I can 
just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point 
and replacing the seals isn't an option at this point.  What sealant would work 
best?
b.. Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - 
weight under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can't imagine trying to lift it out 
using just manpower - is there a "standard" for removing engines?  My idea is 
to use the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is 
distributed over a wide area and a winch.  I don't want to damage the boom but 
don't know any other way of getting the engine out.  
  Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about 
sailing the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way 
down the road. 


  Regards, 




  Dan
  Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA





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  Email addre

Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Curtis via CnC-List]

Here is the photos of me re-powing my C&C30MK1. Some advise spread the load
on the boom. Set a pallet in the cockpit. You will need to re-position the
Engine on the boom before you head into the cabin. or to the dock if coming
out. Get 2 short 4X6's for use in the cabin floor and set them on plywood
or short 1/2X6 to help spread the weight. You will need to re-position the
engine from that spot in the cabin floor just before the engine compartment
for the set. Do not wast time trying to force it into the hole. The engine
will go right in if you take off the starter and alternator along with the
exhaust mixer in the back. The last thing is to get the engine hanging in
some what the same angle as the engine stringers. It was a bitch trying to
sit it level. I resetthe angle and it went right in. Here is the link to
the setting photos of my engine. Thanks and good luck.


http://s148.photobucket.com/user/LTGoshen/library/Engine%20photos?sort=3&page=1


On Sat, Nov 22, 2014 at 2:21 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while
> keeping the engine onboard.  I had a mechinist who was very familiar with
> Yanmar tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar.
> According to him the bearings are significantly over built.  So, assuming
> you keep up with the oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not
> ever going to be needed.
>
> Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you
> might need to pull the engine for is stuck rings.  I've had good luck
> getting rings unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine.
> So have a blast working the top end as much as tou like.
>
> You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that
> would have made getting the engine out a very big job.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Welcome, Dan
>>
>> First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with
>> butyl rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from
>> above and tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the
>> butyl out.
>>
>> I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure
>> doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain
>> Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the
>> toe rail/deck joint.  Eventually it will seal most leakage.
>>
>> As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.  Use
>> your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig a
>> purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.
>> Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts
>> from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the
>> compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it
>> outboard.
>>
>> Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before
>> pulling the engine.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>>  I'm relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school
>>> using 14' Holders, then 21' day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+
>>> years of hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23' Ericson and
>>> a 1977 26' C&C (my favorite).  I've owned the Ericson about a year and the
>>> C&C 4 months.  The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more
>>> sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this
>>> winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating
>>> when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with
>>> the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill
>>> holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I'm
>>> a mechanic. Sorry babbling.
>>>
>>> Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast,
>>> she sails easily and I can't wait to get her out this coming spring.  I'll
>>> sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on
>>> the Yanmar.
>>>
>>> I do have a couple questions if I may:
>>>
>>>
>>>- I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft
>>>are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of 
>>> the
>>>boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I'm wondering 
>>> if
>>>I can just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at
>>>this point and replacing the seals isn't an option at this point.  What
>>>sealant would work best?
>>>- Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine -
>>>weight under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can't imagine trying to lift 
>>> it
>>>out using just manpower - is there a "st

Stus-List keel bolts

[Bill Hoyne via CnC-List]

I blasted out to Victoria to escape the frigid Alberta cold for a week or so. 
So I thought a little biking and messing around in the bilge would be fun. The 
water in the bilge was a bit salty and the mild steel plates below the keel 
bolts were badly corroded so I replaced some of the plates with some 3/8” 
316SS. I cleaned out the bilge and watched. When I removed the bolts, one at a 
time :-) there was no seepage around the bolts - a good sign I think. However 
there are some cracks in the sump area between the keel bolts and these are 
seeping water at about 100ml/day. I didn’t go out for a sail so assume there 
would be more water ingress when the keel is under some stress. Is there some 
way to seal these cracks without dropping the keel? What is the thickness from 
the bottom of the bilge to the top of the keel stub? Can I just pour some epoxy 
in the the sump area?

Thanks!!

Bill Hoyne
Mithrandir
’74 C&C35 MkII
in Victoria,BC___
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Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Tom can I get pictures of the stainless?   Do you know where your stainless
rails came from?  I'm looking to have them made by White Water Marine Inc.
On Nov 22, 2014 1:13 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>  Josh
>
> I'll check too.  But probably not til next week.  SHe's in the shop
> getting the dripless bearing dripless again and a full tune up.
>
> BTW, my PO replaced the deck handrails with stainless.  My wife Lynn, who
> handles all the bright work, was very pleased!
>
> Tom B
>
> At 09:00 AM 11/22/2014, you wrote:
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 11:39:52 -0500
> From: Ron Ricci 
> To: "'Josh Muckley'" , "'C&C List'"
>  
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal
> Message-ID: <027601d00672$f1157ca0$d34075e0$@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Josh,
>
>  If helpful, I'll take a look at mine (1991).  It may not be for a few
> weeks.
>
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ronald V. Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
>
>  < mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com >
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
> From: Josh Muckley [ mailto:muckl...@gmail.com ]
> Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 4:50 AM
> To: C&C List
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal
>
>  Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on
> the
> port handrail?  It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of the
> head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon
> headliner and the head headliner.
>
> I am fine pulling the head's headliner except that it looks like it is
> laminated to the cabin top (near the windows at a minimum).  Same with the
> significantly larger salon headliner.  I think an access hole and plug are
> in order but where best to put one is the question.
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

To add on to Dennis's comment about exploring the overheating while keeping
the engine onboard.  I had a mechinist who was very familiar with Yanmar
tell me that there was very little reason to ever pull a Yanmar.  According
to him the bearings are significantly over built.  So, assuming you keep up
with the oil level and changes, a bottom job is probably not ever going to
be needed.

Barring a cracked block or blown piston the only other thing that you might
need to pull the engine for is stuck rings.  I've had good luck getting
rings unstuck twice now without having to disassemble the engine.  So have
a blast working the top end as much as tou like.

You'll probably also find that there are a bunch of interferences that
would have made getting the engine out a very big job.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 22, 2014 9:53 AM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Welcome, Dan
>
> First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with
> butyl rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from
> above and tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the
> butyl out.
>
> I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure
> doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain
> Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the
> toe rail/deck joint.  Eventually it will seal most leakage.
>
> As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.  Use
> your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig a
> purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.
> Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts
> from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the
> compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it
> outboard.
>
> Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before
> pulling the engine.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
>>  I'm relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using
>> 14' Holders, then 21' day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years
>> of hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23' Ericson and a
>> 1977 26' C&C (my favorite).  I've owned the Ericson about a year and the
>> C&C 4 months.  The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more
>> sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this
>> winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating
>> when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with
>> the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill
>> holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I'm
>> a mechanic. Sorry babbling.
>>
>> Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast,
>> she sails easily and I can't wait to get her out this coming spring.  I'll
>> sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on
>> the Yanmar.
>>
>> I do have a couple questions if I may:
>>
>>
>>- I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft
>>are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the
>>boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I'm wondering 
>> if
>>I can just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at
>>this point and replacing the seals isn't an option at this point.  What
>>sealant would work best?
>>- Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine -
>>weight under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can't imagine trying to lift 
>> it
>>out using just manpower - is there a "standard" for removing engines?  My
>>idea is to use the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the 
>> load
>>is distributed over a wide area and a winch.  I don't want to damage the
>>boom but don't know any other way of getting the engine out.
>>
>> Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about
>> sailing the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is
>> way down the road.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>>
>> Dan
>> Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
>> page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
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>
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> page at:
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>
>
>
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T

Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Josh

I'll check too.  But probably not til next week.  SHe's in the shop 
getting the dripless bearing dripless again and a full tune up.


BTW, my PO replaced the deck handrails with stainless.  My wife Lynn, 
who handles all the bright work, was very pleased!


Tom B

At 09:00 AM 11/22/2014, you wrote:


Message: 2
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2014 11:39:52 -0500
From: Ron Ricci 
To: "'Josh Muckley'" , "'C&C List'"

Subject: Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal
Message-ID: <027601d00672$f1157ca0$d34075e0$@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Josh,

 If helpful, I'll take a look at mine (1991).  It may not be for a few weeks.

Regards,
Ron
Ronald V. Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com


From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 4:50 AM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

 Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on the
port handrail?  It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of the
head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon
headliner and the head headliner.

I am fine pulling the head's headliner except that it looks like it is
laminated to the cabin top (near the windows at a minimum).  Same with the
significantly larger salon headliner.  I think an access hole and plug are
in order but where best to put one is the question.

Thanks guys,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[svpegasus38]

Hi Dan. I am the owner of a C&C 38. I had overheating issues and it was just a 
pluggeg heat exchanger. The Yanmar is a pretty bulit proof engine. I live 
aboard in Shilshole. I will be in Brownsville next weekend if you would like to 
bs over a beer. Doug

T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.


-- Original message--From: Dan via CnC-ListDate: Sat, Nov 22, 2014 
06:48To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Subject:Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions 
   I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I 
have been to a school using 14’ Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing 
(lake boards) and 30+ years of hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 
1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ C&C (my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson 
about a year and the C&C 4 months.  The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the 
goodies and more sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will 
come out this winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was 
overheating when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat.  I 
toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not 
drill holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and 
I’m a mechanic. Sorry babbling.
Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she 
sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring.  I’ll sail the 
Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar.
I do have a couple questions if I may:
I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are of the 
cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat - I know 
there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m wondering if I can just 
re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point and 
replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point.  What sealant would work 
best?Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - weight 
under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can’t imagine trying to lift it out using 
just manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines?  My idea is to use 
the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is distributed 
over a wide area and a winch.  I don’t want to damage the boom but don’t know 
any other way of getting the engine out.  Thanks for reading my dribble.. 
looking forward to learning all about sailing the C&C and eventually moving up 
to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way down the road. 
Regards, 

DanBrownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA

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Stus-List Winter worries

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

I'm surprised no one mentioned the Caframo heaters..  Extremely well made
in Canada and specifically designed to protect your boat in the winter with
a 'No Freeze" setting designed to keep it just warm enough  / not burn too
much electricity.

http://www.starmarinedepot.com/caframo-true-north-deluxe-9206-120vac-high-performance-space-heater-600,-900,-1500-w.html?gclid=CjwKEAiAv7ajBRCIldS7rp7wzFkSJAAA1n4D9pIUgtZj9tzOh9P5Cd8HAJExeCiO79ReNByATCTCTxoCS3vw_wcB

At the higher settings (Combined with a fan or 2) it  keeps the cabin cozy
even when it dips down in the 30's at nite when we go in the winter.

It's a little pricier than the cheapo Walmart ceramic heaters but I feel
it's a safe bet.  Also, I have a strategically placed additional fan and
remove the engine cover (Located under the companionway steps) to make sure
the warm air circulates around the engine compartment as well. .

With that combined with the fact that the lake water temp stays in the 55 -
60 range degrees all winter it seems to work well for us.

Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Georgia

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Re: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

If helpful, I'll take a look at mine (1991).  It may not be for a few weeks.

 

 

Regards,

Ron

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: Josh Muckley [mailto:muckl...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 4:50 AM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

 

Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on the
port handrail?  It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of the
head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon
headliner and the head headliner.  

I am fine pulling the head's headliner except that it looks like it is
laminated to the cabin top (near the windows at a minimum).  Same with the
significantly larger salon headliner.  I think an access hole and plug are
in order but where best to put one is the question.

Thanks guys,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I have used my boom many times to get the A4 engine in and out of my boat. It 
works well if you remember the boom is strong in COMPRESSION. If the engine is 
not being lifted from the end of the boom, you need the main halyard to tie to 
the boom where you are lifting from. What you do not want to do is support the 
end of the boom and lift the engine from the center.

 

Joe Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com  

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 9:48 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

 

I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14’ 
Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang 
gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ C&C 
(my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the C&C 4 months.  The 
C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know what 
to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how to 
remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got a 
very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on 
the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the 
maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m a mechanic. Sorry babbling. 

 

Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she 
sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring.  I’ll sail the 
Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar.

 

I do have a couple questions if I may:

 

*   I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are 
of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat - I 
know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m wondering if I can just 
re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point and 
replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point.  What sealant would work 
best?
*   Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - weight 
under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can’t imagine trying to lift it out using 
just manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines?  My idea is to use 
the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is distributed 
over a wide area and a winch.  I don’t want to damage the boom but don’t know 
any other way of getting the engine out.  

Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about sailing 
the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way down the 
road. 

 

Regards, 

 

 

Dan

Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Welcome, Dan

First, the leaks on the toe rails.  They should currently be sealed with
butyl rubber.  You can tighten the fasteners a bit.  Have someone hold from
above and tighten from below.  Do NOT overtighten or you'll squeeze the
butyl out.

I don't worry too much about toe rail leaks but if the above procedure
doesn't completely stop leakage, try multiple applications of Captain
Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure.  Just run beads down the inboard edge of the
toe rail/deck joint.  Eventually it will seal most leakage.

As for the engine removal, you can use the boom but not for lifting.  Use
your main halyard if it's in good condition to support the weight.  Rig a
purchase from the boom end to the halyard to haul in/out along the boom.
Tie the halyard to the boom loosely with a loop, unfasten the engine mounts
from the support rail, lift engine slightly, slide it out of the
compartment then lift clear and swing to pier using purchase to move it
outboard.

Having said that, I'd thoroughly explore the overheating issue before
pulling the engine.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Nov 22, 2014 6:48 AM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

>  I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using
> 14’ Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years
> of hang gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a
> 1977 26’ C&C (my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the
> C&C 4 months.  The C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more
> sails than I know what to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this
> winter (working on how to remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating
> when I bought the vessel, got a very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with
> the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on the stern but would rather not drill
> holes in her plus I have all the maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m
> a mechanic. Sorry babbling.
>
> Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast,
> she sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring.  I’ll
> sail the Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on
> the Yanmar.
>
> I do have a couple questions if I may:
>
>
>- I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft
>are of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the
>boat - I know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m wondering if
>I can just re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at
>this point and replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point.  What
>sealant would work best?
>- Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine -
>weight under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can’t imagine trying to lift it
>out using just manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines?  My
>idea is to use the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load
>is distributed over a wide area and a winch.  I don’t want to damage the
>boom but don’t know any other way of getting the engine out.
>
> Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about
> sailing the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is
> way down the road.
>
> Regards,
>
>
> Dan
> Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA
>
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Having a slightly bigger C&C, I would think if you supported the boom at the 
aft end and used a multi-part lift, the engine would come out easily. I would 
try to spread the load on the boom - use about three lines (spread over about 
three to four feet) from it to the lifting come-along or whatever you plan on 
using for the hoist.

I have a neighbor with a 26 with an outboard, and you are wise to keep to the 
Yanmar unless it is too far gone to repair. The boat looks crappy and as the 
hull tapers up, when you go through waves, it may be out of the water more than 
you would like.

The handrails are removable, some are attached through similar rails in the 
cabin, some have screws or bolts accessed through little caps in the cabin 
ceiling. The consensus of this group is that butyl is a great sealant. Some 
folks have been ambitious and cut tapers in the rail bases to use 'o' rings. 
Make sure you have the hole area dry and sealed. 

Good luck. If you have specific questions, I can probably get aboard my 
neighbor's boat and look.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Dan via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2014 9:47 AM
  Subject: Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions


  I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14’ 
Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang 
gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ C&C 
(my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the C&C 4 months.  The 
C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know what 
to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how to 
remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got a 
very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on 
the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the 
maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m a mechanic. Sorry babbling. 


  Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she 
sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring.  I’ll sail the 
Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar.


  I do have a couple questions if I may:


a.. I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are 
of the cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat - I 
know there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m wondering if I can just 
re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point and 
replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point.  What sealant would work 
best?
b.. Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - weight 
under 200 lbs during the removal?  I can’t imagine trying to lift it out using 
just manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines?  My idea is to use 
the boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is distributed 
over a wide area and a winch.  I don’t want to damage the boom but don’t know 
any other way of getting the engine out.  
  Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about sailing 
the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way down the 
road. 


  Regards, 




  Dan
  Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA






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Stus-List New Sailor Intro and Questions

[Dan via CnC-List]

I’m relatively new to sailing boats though I have been to a school using 14’ 
Holders, then 21’ day sailors, wind surfing (lake boards) and 30+ years of hang 
gliding.  I currently own 2 sailboats, a 1976 23’ Ericson and a 1977 26’ C&C 
(my favorite).  I’ve owned the Ericson about a year and the C&C 4 months.  The 
C&C is in excellent shape, has all the goodies and more sails than I know what 
to do with right now. The Yanmar will come out this winter (working on how to 
remove) so I can overhaul; it was overheating when I bought the vessel, got a 
very good deal on the boat.  I toyed with the idea of hanging a 15HP Yamaha on 
the stern but would rather not drill holes in her plus I have all the 
maintenance manuals for the Yanmar and I’m a mechanic. Sorry babbling.  

Sailing the C&C @ 30 miles from her old mooring to new digs was a blast, she 
sails easily and I can’t wait to get her out this coming spring.  I’ll sail the 
Ericson over the winter here (Pacific Northwest) while I work on the Yanmar.

I do have a couple questions if I may:

I have a small water leak on both the port and starboard sides aft are of the 
cabin, suspect coming from the rails that run the length of the boat - I know 
there is a name for them but it escapes me.  I’m wondering if I can just 
re-seal the length of the rails until spring, removing them at this point and 
replacing the seals isn’t an option at this point.  What sealant would work 
best?
Can I use the boom (protected of course) to winch the engine - weight under 200 
lbs during the removal?  I can’t imagine trying to lift it out using just 
manpower - is there a “standard” for removing engines?  My idea is to use the 
boom protected of course and maybe set it up so the load is distributed over a 
wide area and a winch.  I don’t want to damage the boom but don’t know any 
other way of getting the engine out.   

Thanks for reading my dribble.. looking forward to learning all about sailing 
the C&C and eventually moving up to a 30+ foot boat, buy that is way down the 
road.  

Regards,   


Dan
Brownsville Marina, Bremerton, WA


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Re: Stus-List 35-1 for sale

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I agree Neil, a Brit Chance modified keel...no pics of the keel...wish they
would have posted more pics...like to see the keel...maybe it's under a
cover for secrecy like they did with the AC boats years ago when the wing
first came out...i believe I checked that same boat out just before I got
my 35 MKII...very well equipped boat...maybe even the stick has been
changed out...too many mods to really be called a Classic

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 3:24 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  I'm pretty sure this boat also has a Brit Chance designed deep-fin keel,
> its PHRF base rating is 117 vs. 126 because of that.
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
> On 11/21/2014 1:43 PM, Dennis C. wrote:
>
>   If indeed that is a 35-1, that is one tricked out 35-1!  Suspect it
> will sell quickly at that price.
>
>  Yeah, inline shrouds.
>
> However, 61' air clearance?  126 beam?  42 LOA?
>
>  Dennis C.
>  Touche' 35-1 #83
>  Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Nov 21, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> http://www.boatquest.com/listing/134563/1970-35-ft-dot--c--c-35-mark-i.html#.VG9t-PIo6po
>>
>> Some interesting features for a 35-1...inboard shrouds, running backs.
>>
>>
>> Neil Gallagher
>> Weatherly 35-1
>> Glen Cove, NY
>>
>>
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Stus-List 37+ handrail removal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Any of you 37+ owners know how to get to the aft most mounting screw on the
port handrail?  It looks like it's inside nut is above the headliner of the
head or maybe above the forward bulkhead of the head, between the salon
headliner and the head headliner.

I am fine pulling the head's headliner except that it looks like it is
laminated to the cabin top (near the windows at a minimum).  Same with the
significantly larger salon headliner.  I think an access hole and plug are
in order but where best to put one is the question.

Thanks guys,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
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