Stus-List Force 10 stove parts
Anyone have a source for parts (burner caps, themocouples) for an old Force 10 3 burner stove/oven? Thanks. Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Force 10 stove parts
Try Sure marine in Seattle. Suremarine.com Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2015 17:54To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners;Cc: Daniel Sheer;Subject:Stus-List Force 10 stove partsAnyone have a source for parts (burner caps, themocouples) for an old Force 10 3 burner stove/oven? Thanks. Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Force 10 stove parts
Have you tried Force 10? From their website: Force 10 products are represented in over 15 different countries and we can supply spare parts worldwide. http://www.force10.com/about.html http://www.force10.com/about.html Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Jun 30, 2015, at 7:54 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Anyone have a source for parts (burner caps, themocouples) for an old Force 10 3 burner stove/oven? Thanks. Dan Sheer Pegathy - LF38 Rock Creek off the Patapsco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
I had Micron 66 on Pegasus lasted 4 1/2 years. Would have lasted longer except I had the bottom cleaned once. Just using the boat kept it clean. Now I am using Blue Water 45. 3 years and still going strong. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: Chuck S via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2015 18:07To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list;Cc: Chuck S;Subject:Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient changeI think any drug like tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never read the directions. I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: S Thomas via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: S Thomas Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2015 8:23:54 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change @font-face { font-family: Wingdings;}@font-face {font-family: Cambria Math;}@font-face { font-family: Calibri;}@page WordSection1 {size: 8.5in 11.0in; margin: 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in; }P.MsoNormal { MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman,serif; FONT-SIZE: 12pt}LI.MsoNormal { MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman,serif; FONT-SIZE: 12pt}DIV.MsoNormal { MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt; FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman,serif; FONT-SIZE: 12pt}A:link { COLOR: #0563c1; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99}SPAN.MsoHyperlink { COLOR: #0563c1; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99}A:visited { COLOR: #954f72; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99}SPAN.MsoHyperlinkFollowed { COLOR: #954f72; TEXT-DECORATION: underline; mso-style-priority: 99}P { FONT-FAMILY: Times New Roman,serif; MARGIN-LEFT: 0in; FONT-SIZE: 12pt; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in; mso-style-priority: 99; mso-margin-top-alt: auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt: auto}SPAN.EmailStyle18 { FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; COLOR: #1f497d; mso-style-type: personal-reply}.MsoChpDefault { FONT-SIZE: 10pt; mso-style-type: export-only}DIV.WordSection1 { page: WordSection1}OL { MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0in}UL { MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0in} Rick, I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the veterinary grade tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere mortals who are not M.D.s. The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% tetracycline by weight and whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on the packaging. I used about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed to work ok mix and application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary stuff consists of particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder used in the gel caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine powder first, but I was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The result was as you might expect from this description. The surface texture of paint with bits of fine sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a word to the wise. Make sure that anything you add to paint is ground up super fine. Seems obvious I know, but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid. Steve ThomasCC27 MKIIIPort Stanley P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday afternoon. - Original Message -From: Rick Brass via CnC-List To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a big Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the name, when you had to pay the
Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
Rick, I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the veterinary grade tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere mortals who are not M.D.s. The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% tetracycline by weight and whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on the packaging. I used about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed to work ok mix and application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary stuff consists of particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder used in the gel caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine powder first, but I was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The result was as you might expect from this description. The surface texture of paint with bits of fine sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a word to the wise. Make sure that anything you add to paint is ground up super fine. Seems obvious I know, but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Port Stanley P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday afternoon. - Original Message - From: Rick Brass via CnC-List To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a big Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the name, when you had to pay the marina to put anti-slime additive in the paint. Damn! My bottom was really clean between bottom paintings. I have since been told that you can purchase antibiotics for use on horses at many farm stores that cater to stables. I suppose it is not a good idea to tell your local version of the EPA if you chose to do this. (And in case anyone from the government is listening, I use Petit Ultima SR 60 on both my boats.) Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 9:03 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change In Practical Sailor's tests Irgarol has not been shown to extend the active life of antifouling paints in our tests, and we’ve had a hard time discerning any enhanced slime resistance in Irgarol-boosted paints after six months in the water. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change
I think any drug like tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never read the directions. I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead of it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to their hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, and very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi season hard abatives. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: S Thomas sthom...@bellnet.ca Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2015 8:23:54 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change Rick, I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the veterinary grade tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere mortals who are not M.D.s. The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% tetracycline by weight and whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on the packaging. I used about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed to work ok mix and application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary stuff consists of particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder used in the gel caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine powder first, but I was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The result was as you might expect from this description. The surface texture of paint with bits of fine sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a word to the wise. Make sure that anything you add to paint is ground up super fine. Seems obvious I know, but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid. Steve Thomas CC27 MKIII Port Stanley P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday afternoon. blockquote - Original Message - From: Rick Brass via CnC-List To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57 Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a big Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the name, when you had to pay the marina to put anti-slime additive in the paint. Damn! My bottom was really clean between bottom paintings. I have since been told that you can purchase antibiotics for use on horses at many farm stores that cater to stables. I suppose it is not a good idea to tell your local version of the EPA if you chose to do this. (And in case anyone from the government is listening, I use Petit Ultima SR 60 on both my boats.) Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 9:03 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change In Practical Sailor's tests Irgarol has not been shown to extend the active life of antifouling paints in our tests, and we’ve had a hard time discerning any enhanced slime resistance in Irgarol-boosted paints after six months in the water. /blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Transatlantic Race
Cool Stuff, Some of that becomes clearer with this; https://www.windyty.com/?38.608,-65.918,6 You can see how the leaders made short work of the beat off the continental shelf and are now flying across at 10-14 knots plus on a beam reach enjoying a 16-24 knot southwesterly.. Isn't this satellite tracking technology great? Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Some very strange tracks in the IRC 4 class. Tracking available here: http://yb.tl/transatlantic2015 Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Transatlantic Race
There is also a wind overlay on the tracker site. Definitely more pressure south of the layline. Second group starts tomorrow. Sunday the big boys start, as does the Marblehead/Halifax race. Didn't see any CC's in that one, but I know one skipper and there are several boats from Annapolis doing that one. Joel On Tue, Jun 30, 2015 at 1:14 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Cool Stuff, Some of that becomes clearer with this; https://www.windyty.com/?38.608,-65.918,6 You can see how the leaders made short work of the beat off the continental shelf and are now flying across at 10-14 knots plus on a beam reach enjoying a 16-24 knot southwesterly.. Isn't this satellite tracking technology great? Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Some very strange tracks in the IRC 4 class. Tracking available here: http://yb.tl/transatlantic2015 http://yb.tl/transatlantic2015 Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rigging/Chainplates
Oops, meant to mention on-site visit by Jim Watts whose second opinion was a great help. Patrick Sent from my iPhone On Jun 29, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Patrick Wesley hickl...@icloud.com wrote: To those who replied to my earlier posting, all went well and there was minimal damage to the aluminum block, also minimal damage to the deck around the U bolt. So I've lived to sail another day! And as a bonus the rigger pointed out several other places where the rigging could be improved. Patrick Wesley The Boat 24 Sidney BC Sent from my iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com