Stus-List Force 10 stove parts

2015-06-30 Thread Daniel Sheer via CnC-List
Anyone have a source for parts (burner caps, themocouples) for an old Force 10 
3 burner stove/oven?
Thanks.

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Force 10 stove parts

2015-06-30 Thread svpegasus38






Try Sure marine in Seattle. Suremarine.com
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Daniel Sheer via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jun 30, 
2015 17:54To: Cnc-list CNC Boat Owners;Cc: Daniel Sheer;Subject:Stus-List Force 
10 stove partsAnyone have a source for parts (burner caps, themocouples) for an 
old Force 10 3 burner stove/oven?
Thanks.

Dan SheerPegathy - LF38Rock Creek off the Patapsco
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Re: Stus-List Force 10 stove parts

2015-06-30 Thread Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Have you tried Force 10?  From their website:

 Force 10 products are represented in over 15 different countries and we can 
 supply spare parts worldwide.
 
http://www.force10.com/about.html http://www.force10.com/about.html



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI



 On Jun 30, 2015, at 7:54 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List 
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 
 Anyone have a source for parts (burner caps, themocouples) for an old Force 
 10 3 burner stove/oven?
 
 Thanks.
 
 Dan Sheer
 Pegathy - LF38
 Rock Creek off the Patapsco

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

2015-06-30 Thread svpegasus38






I had Micron 66 on Pegasus lasted 4 1/2 years. Would have lasted longer 
except I had the bottom cleaned once. Just using the boat kept it clean. Now I 
am using Blue Water 45. 3 years and still going strong. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.


-- Original message--From: Chuck S via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jun 30, 2015 
18:07To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list;Cc: Chuck S;Subject:Re: Stus-List Bottom 
paint -ingredient changeI think any drug like tetracycline will kill lots of 
germs and bacteria but will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few 
days.  I wouldn't add anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the 
adhesion and slow release of it's own toxins.  I've heard of people mixing in 
Round Up and I've heard the same people complain that their paint flaked off 
during haulout.  I ask them if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting 
as directed, and can tell by their confused expression, they never read the 
directions. 
I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success.   
I understand your frustration with VC-17.  I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
got fed up with the fouling.  Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead 
of it.  Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad.  Switched to a better 
paint, Micron 66, and love it.  Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling 
looked pretty bad this May.  All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to 
their hulls.  I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck 
brush, and very little pressure.  Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and 
Fresh Water requires Micron Extra I think.  Both can be burnished, but the 
paint goes on very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates.  
They are multi season hard abatives.   


Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

From: S Thomas via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: S Thomas 
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2015 8:23:54 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

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Rick, I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the 
veterinary grade tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere 
mortals who are not M.D.s. The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% 
tetracycline by weight and whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on 
the packaging. I used about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed 
to work ok mix and application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary 
stuff consists of particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder 
used in the gel caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine 
powder first, but I was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The 
result was as you might expect from this description. The surface texture of 
paint with bits of fine sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a 
word to the wise. Make sure that anything you add to paint is ground up super 
fine. Seems obvious I know, but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid.  
Steve ThomasCC27 MKIIIPort Stanley P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday 
afternoon. - Original Message -From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint 
-ingredient change
A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a big 
Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its 
expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said 
he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the 
name, when you had to pay the 

Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

2015-06-30 Thread S Thomas via CnC-List



  Rick, 
  I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the veterinary 
grade tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere mortals who 
are not M.D.s. 
  The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% tetracycline by weight 
and whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on the packaging. I used 
about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed to work ok mix and 
application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary stuff consists of 
particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder used in the gel 
caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine powder first, but I 
was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The result was as you might 
expect from this description. The surface texture of paint with bits of fine 
sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a word to the wise. Make sure 
that anything you add to paint is ground up super fine. Seems obvious I know, 
but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid. 

  Steve Thomas
  CC27 MKIII
  Port Stanley

  P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday afternoon. 
- Original Message - 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change


A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a 
big Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its 
expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said 
he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the 
name, when you had to pay the marina to put anti-slime additive in the paint.

 

Damn! My bottom was really clean between bottom paintings.

 

I have since been told that you can purchase antibiotics for use on horses 
at many farm stores that cater to stables. I suppose it is not a good idea to 
tell your local version of the EPA if you chose to do this. (And in case anyone 
from the government is listening, I use Petit Ultima SR 60 on both my boats.)

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

In Practical Sailor's tests Irgarol has not been shown to extend the 
active life of antifouling paints in our tests, and we’ve had a hard time 
discerning any enhanced slime resistance in Irgarol-boosted paints after six 
months in the water.  

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Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change

2015-06-30 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List
I think any drug like  tetracycline will kill lots of germs and bacteria but 
will dissolve so fast in water, it will be gone in a few days. I wouldn't add 
anything to bottom paint for fear of jeopardizing the adhesion and slow release 
of it's own toxins. I've heard of people mixing in Round Up and I've heard 
the same people complain that their paint flaked off during haulout. I ask them 
if they sanded with 80 grit paper before painting as directed, and can tell by 
their confused expression, they never read the directions. 

I respect the guys who write the application instructions, follow those as 
close as I can and I've enjoyed great success. 

I understand your frustration with VC-17. I used VC-Offshore for 8 years and 
got fed up with the fouling. Had to clean the bottom each week to stay ahead of 
it. Used a piece of carpet and sometimes a 3M pad. Switched to a better paint, 
Micron 66, and love it. Kept the boat in all winter and the fouling looked 
pretty bad this May. All the boats in y marina had a fur attached to their 
hulls. I was surprised how easy it came off easily with a soft deck brush, and 
very little pressure. Micron 66 is designed for Salt Water and Fresh Water 
requires Micron Extra I think. Both can be burnished, but the paint goes on 
very smooth as is, and by design gets smoother as it ablates. They are multi 
season hard abatives. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: S Thomas via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: S Thomas sthom...@bellnet.ca 
Sent: Tuesday, June 30, 2015 8:23:54 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change 





Rick, 
I decided to try your friend's suggestion, but with the veterinary grade 
tetracycline since that is all that is available to us mere mortals who are not 
M.D.s. 
The stuff I bought from the local farm supply is 25% tetracycline by weight and 
whatever makes up the rest of it is not mentioned on the packaging. I used 
about a rounded teaspoon in a quart of VC17 and it seemed to work ok mix and 
application wise but with one big problem. The veterinary stuff consists of 
particles the size of fine sand, instead of the fine powder used in the gel 
caps fit for humans. I should have ground it up into a fine powder first, but I 
was in a hurry and not wearing my reading glasses. The result was as you might 
expect from this description. The surface texture of paint with bits of fine 
sand mixed in here and there. Live and learn, and a word to the wise. Make sure 
that anything you add to paint is ground up super fine. Seems obvious I know, 
but being in a hurry tends to make me stupid. 
Steve Thomas 
CC27 MKIII 
Port Stanley 
P.S. Finally in the water, as of yesterday afternoon. 

blockquote

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
To: 'Jean-Francois J Rivard' ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 09:57 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change 



A number of years ago, a friend who is a physician, and also the owner of a big 
Cape Dory, gave me a bottle of Tetracycline antibiotic that was past its 
expiration date and told me to mix it into my bottom paint. That’s what he said 
he did for anti-slime additive, back in the days before paints with SR in the 
name, when you had to pay the marina to put anti-slime additive in the paint. 



Damn! My bottom was really clean between bottom paintings. 



I have since been told that you can purchase antibiotics for use on horses at 
many farm stores that cater to stables. I suppose it is not a good idea to tell 
your local version of the EPA if you chose to do this. (And in case anyone from 
the government is listening, I use Petit Ultima SR 60 on both my boats.) 





Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, March 19, 2015 9:03 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Bottom paint -ingredient change 


In Practical Sailor's tests Irgarol has not been shown to extend the active 
life of antifouling paints in our tests, and we’ve had a hard time discerning 
any enhanced slime resistance in Irgarol-boosted paints after six months in the 
water.  



/blockquote

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Stus-List Transatlantic Race

2015-06-30 Thread Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List
Cool Stuff, 

Some of that becomes clearer with this; 
https://www.windyty.com/?38.608,-65.918,6  You can see how the leaders 
made short work of the beat off the continental shelf and are now flying 
across at 10-14 knots plus on a beam reach enjoying a 16-24 knot 
southwesterly.. 

Isn't this satellite tracking technology great? 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ Take Five
Lake Lanier, GA

  Some very strange tracks in the IRC 4 class.  Tracking available here:
  http://yb.tl/transatlantic2015

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Transatlantic Race

2015-06-30 Thread Joel Aronson via CnC-List
There is also a wind overlay on the tracker site.  Definitely more pressure
south of the layline.

Second group starts tomorrow.  Sunday the big boys start, as does the
Marblehead/Halifax race.  Didn't see any CC's in that one, but I know one
skipper and there are several boats from Annapolis doing that one.

Joel

On Tue, Jun 30, 2015 at 1:14 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Cool Stuff,

 Some of that becomes clearer with this;
 https://www.windyty.com/?38.608,-65.918,6 You can see how the leaders
 made short work of the beat off the continental shelf and are now flying
 across at 10-14 knots plus on a beam reach enjoying a 16-24 knot
 southwesterly..

 Isn't this satellite tracking technology great?

 Francois Rivard
 1990 34+ Take Five
 Lake Lanier, GA

   Some very strange tracks in the IRC 4 class.  Tracking available here:
   http://yb.tl/transatlantic2015 http://yb.tl/transatlantic2015

   Dennis C.
   Touche' 35-1 #83
   Mandeville, LA

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-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Rigging/Chainplates

2015-06-30 Thread Patrick Wesley via CnC-List
Oops, meant to mention on-site visit by Jim Watts whose second opinion was a 
great help. Patrick

Sent from my iPhone

 On Jun 29, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Patrick Wesley hickl...@icloud.com wrote:
 
 To those who replied to my earlier posting, all went well and there was 
 minimal damage to the aluminum block, also minimal damage to the deck around 
 the U bolt. 
 
 So I've lived to sail another day! And as a bonus the rigger pointed out 
 several other places where the rigging could be improved. 
 
 Patrick Wesley
 The Boat 24
 Sidney BC
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 

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