Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
Although I’m not a great fan of having any more components than absolutely needed in an anchor rode, a swivel installed between the chain and anchor can ensure the anchor can rotate and more easily traverse the roller than a shackle. Locktite is a good thing to use when installing a swivel. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless! On Aug 17, 2015, at 21:09, svpegasu...@gmail.com mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Of course. Although I have to modify the one at the anchor because the pin gets hing up on the bow roller fitting. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Date: Mon, Aug 17, 2015 11:17 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Cc: dwight veinot; Subject:Re: Stus-List Anchor roller I hope you seized all the shackles Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net mailto:d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com mailto:svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless! ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
Barbara I would be happy to send you a few pictures of the bow roller on my 35 MKII but I know the files too large to send on the cnc email. My bow is not that different from your 33-1 and I don't think what I have ruins the look. Give me your personal email and I send them to you directly Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 8:48 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! Barbara L. Hickson Flight Risk CC33-1 Hull No. 145 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone https://yho.com/footer0 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
Dwight, I would be interested in those pic’s too. I have a 1976 33 - three quarter tonner, which is basically an MK I with a different deck and cockpit configuration and a deeper keel. bstrat...@falconnect.com Thanks, Burt From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight veinot via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 7:56 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: dwight veinot Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller Barbara I would be happy to send you a few pictures of the bow roller on my 35 MKII but I know the files too large to send on the cnc email. My bow is not that different from your 33-1 and I don't think what I have ruins the look. Give me your personal email and I send them to you directly Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 8:48 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! Barbara L. Hickson Flight Risk CC33-1 Hull No. 145 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone https://yho.com/footer0 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40
Im wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for their spinnakers. The FO left me a collection of lines and four spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical cruising). It doesnt appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will need both sheets and a tack line. Depending upon where I look, it seems that I should have a sheet length between 80 100. All I have is a 70 ½ line. Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker? For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57 x ½ which appear to be OK. The sheets I have are 80 x ¼, 63 x ½ and 50 x 9/16. Except for the ¼ line, they all seem short. Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92 long. Thanks, Ron Ron Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Thanks for all the replies - I'll look into the acid options locally. As for the welding - I think my best bet is to suck it up - remove the rear pulpit and take it into a shop for welding. The broken weld is right at one of the deck anchors so it would be tough not to damage the boat. Plus then they could properly repair the crappy weld job the mobile guy did -- I don't think he used stainless for the core. Thanks, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2015-08-18 1:00 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: Hi Mark, I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a "scotchbrite" pad to clean up rust stains. I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute version of what I use so it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad acid defiantly speeds things up, allowing you to rinse in less time than a soak. Any significant heat treatment (welding) on S/S will affect it's protective oxide layer. To restore the affected area we use a "pickling paste" which is just a fancy name for a really strong acid thickened enough to hang almost vertical for a while doing it's job. Copious amounts of water is recommenced to be on hand to get rid of it. The best welding process for anything that cannot be removed from the boat is shielded gas, TIG or MIG, not a fluxed electrode. A tad more expensive but a much better job and no splatter clean-up. If you have to go other and with any grinding keep the decks wet, water flowing, around the work area. This will prevent hot stuff sticking to soft stuff. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 12:48 PM 17/08/2015, you wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40
I use two part spin sheets. 1/4 inch Dyneema stuffed into StaSet. Strong and light where need be and easy on the hands on the trimmer end. Not sure anybody is still making them. Many now use tapered sheets. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 11:23 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On my 34+ I fly an asym on a sprit. I use 3/8 for spin sheets. I have 1/4 for light air. I would go minimum 3/8 and consider 7/16 for the 37+ 2x boat length is correct for the asym. I used to fly a symmetrical and just repurposed those sheets. One of the guys is now the tackline which I ran aft to the cockpit. Before I got the sprit when flying a cruising chute I used the downhaul line but put a snatch block on the anchor roller to get the tack out ahead of the forstay. Eric On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ron, For the symmetrical the 80' sheets you have should be long enough, but they may be hard on the hands in a breeze. I use the spin pole downhaul as a tack line. I added a shackle to the bow stem and move the snap shackle on the downhaul to the bow stem shackle. I know APS and others recommend longer sheets, but I don't see the need. For the symmetrical they need to go from the headstay to the turning block, around the winch and up to the trimmer. 50 may be short, but you would only be using 9/16 if downwind in a blow, not on a reach. The asym needs to be the length of the foot of the chute, plus from the headstay to the turning block around the winch and to the trimmer, or roughly 2x boat length. Hope this helps. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:04 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for their spinnakers. The FO left me a collection of lines and four spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical cruising). It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will need both sheets and a tack line. Depending upon where I look, it seems that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’. All I have is a 70’ ½” line. Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker? For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to be OK. The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”. Except for the ¼” line, they all seem short. Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’ long. Thanks, *Ron* Ron Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
I think hou are on the right track. You will get a better job. I can do welding but when my stern pulpit need work I took it in. They did a much better job than I could have done. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40
My lightest sheet is 4 mm Robline. I hate having to use it. Joel On Tuesday, August 18, 2015, Eric Baumes via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: My light air sheets are tapered. On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 1:01 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: I use two part spin sheets. 1/4 inch Dyneema stuffed into StaSet. Strong and light where need be and easy on the hands on the trimmer end. Not sure anybody is still making them. Many now use tapered sheets. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 11:23 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: On my 34+ I fly an asym on a sprit. I use 3/8 for spin sheets. I have 1/4 for light air. I would go minimum 3/8 and consider 7/16 for the 37+ 2x boat length is correct for the asym. I used to fly a symmetrical and just repurposed those sheets. One of the guys is now the tackline which I ran aft to the cockpit. Before I got the sprit when flying a cruising chute I used the downhaul line but put a snatch block on the anchor roller to get the tack out ahead of the forstay. Eric On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: Ron, For the symmetrical the 80' sheets you have should be long enough, but they may be hard on the hands in a breeze. I use the spin pole downhaul as a tack line. I added a shackle to the bow stem and move the snap shackle on the downhaul to the bow stem shackle. I know APS and others recommend longer sheets, but I don't see the need. For the symmetrical they need to go from the headstay to the turning block, around the winch and up to the trimmer. 50 may be short, but you would only be using 9/16 if downwind in a blow, not on a reach. The asym needs to be the length of the foot of the chute, plus from the headstay to the turning block around the winch and to the trimmer, or roughly 2x boat length. Hope this helps. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:04 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for their spinnakers. The FO left me a collection of lines and four spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical cruising). It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will need both sheets and a tack line. Depending upon where I look, it seems that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’. All I have is a 70’ ½” line. Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker? For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to be OK. The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”. Except for the ¼” line, they all seem short. Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’ long. Thanks, *Ron* Ron Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI ron.ri...@1968.usna.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','ron.ri...@1968.usna.com'); ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Just a thought, When I did my major refit, I made mounting plates that matched those on the rear pulpit, welded studs onto the plates that poked through the plates and were threaded on both ends. Those plates then become permanently attached to the boat. Then I just pushed the pulpit over the studs and put acorn nuts on, so it is a very simple operation of removing 8 nuts to remove the pulpit - Bill Coleman CC 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 2:22 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar Subject: Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding Thanks for all the replies - I'll look into the acid options locally. As for the welding - I think my best bet is to suck it up - remove the rear pulpit and take it into a shop for welding. The broken weld is right at one of the deck anchors so it would be tough not to damage the boat. Plus then they could properly repair the crappy weld job the mobile guy did -- I don't think he used stainless for the core. Thanks, Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 2015-08-18 1:00 AM, Russ Melody via CnC-List wrote: Hi Mark, I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a scotchbrite pad to clean up rust stains. I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute version of what I use so it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad acid defiantly speeds things up, allowing you to rinse in less time than a soak. Any significant heat treatment (welding) on S/S will affect it's protective oxide layer. To restore the affected area we use a pickling paste which is just a fancy name for a really strong acid thickened enough to hang almost vertical for a while doing it's job. Copious amounts of water is recommenced to be on hand to get rid of it. The best welding process for anything that cannot be removed from the boat is shielded gas, TIG or MIG, not a fluxed electrode. A tad more expensive but a much better job and no splatter clean-up. If you have to go other and with any grinding keep the decks wet, water flowing, around the work area. This will prevent hot stuff sticking to soft stuff. Cheers, Russ Sweet 35 mk-1 At 12:48 PM 17/08/2015, you wrote: Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing. This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over. The final repair was adequate (pretty rough - but sealed the crack and seemed solid). Unfortunately a few weeks later I discovered a million little rust stains in the gel coat. We tried to scrub them out with Comet - but mostly just brightened up the gel coat. CLR didn't seem to do much - maybe a longer soak? Any suggestions on cleaning? I'm wondering about doing a bit of a white wash with stain to see if that will clean them. Now the area he repaired is showing some signs of rust - obviously he welded with steel and that is rusting. I had another weld that gave way (a lower bracket on the rear pulpit) - and I'd rather avoid repeating the same issue. Not sure how close to fiberglass they can safely weld - removing the whole rear pulpit wouldn't be a fun process, but likely smart to get it done properly. Any specific questions I should be asking of a stainless welder? Recommendations in Halifax area? I'm also wanting to build a small arch for a solar panel - maybe integrated right into the rear pulpit Mark CS 30 - Prosecco ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2
Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the foredeck. What hardware is best in this application? Allen Miles s/v Septima Hampton, VA Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
I'd be careful with any abrasive products. They'll eventually wear off the gelcoat. The only abrasive I would even suggest for gelcoat is AquaBuff 2000. It's a polishing compound. It will smooth and polish gelcoat but is still lightly abrasive. I used to use SoftScrub with bleach but decided that was too abrasive. Now I use Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach. Does an awesome job removing mildew. Not sure how it would work on rust stains. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 2:35 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Barkeeper's Friend. Available at Canadian Tire. I swear by this stuff. (it's acid based, forget which acid, but I've been using it on my gelcoat for years on two boats). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 3:01 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I think hou are on the right track. You will get a better job. I can do welding but when my stern pulpit need work I took it in. They did a much better job than I could have done. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2
Yep, pelican hook, same here. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 18, 2015 5:36 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great. Bill Bina On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote: Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the foredeck. What hardware is best in this application? Allen Miles s/v Septima Hampton, VA Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Barkeeper's Friend. Available at Canadian Tire. I swear by this stuff. (it's acid based, forget which acid, but I've been using it on my gelcoat for years on two boats). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 3:01 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I think hou are on the right track. You will get a better job. I can do welding but when my stern pulpit need work I took it in. They did a much better job than I could have done. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40
My light air sheets are tapered. On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 1:01 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I use two part spin sheets. 1/4 inch Dyneema stuffed into StaSet. Strong and light where need be and easy on the hands on the trimmer end. Not sure anybody is still making them. Many now use tapered sheets. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 11:23 AM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On my 34+ I fly an asym on a sprit. I use 3/8 for spin sheets. I have 1/4 for light air. I would go minimum 3/8 and consider 7/16 for the 37+ 2x boat length is correct for the asym. I used to fly a symmetrical and just repurposed those sheets. One of the guys is now the tackline which I ran aft to the cockpit. Before I got the sprit when flying a cruising chute I used the downhaul line but put a snatch block on the anchor roller to get the tack out ahead of the forstay. Eric On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ron, For the symmetrical the 80' sheets you have should be long enough, but they may be hard on the hands in a breeze. I use the spin pole downhaul as a tack line. I added a shackle to the bow stem and move the snap shackle on the downhaul to the bow stem shackle. I know APS and others recommend longer sheets, but I don't see the need. For the symmetrical they need to go from the headstay to the turning block, around the winch and up to the trimmer. 50 may be short, but you would only be using 9/16 if downwind in a blow, not on a reach. The asym needs to be the length of the foot of the chute, plus from the headstay to the turning block around the winch and to the trimmer, or roughly 2x boat length. Hope this helps. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:04 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for their spinnakers. The FO left me a collection of lines and four spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical cruising). It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will need both sheets and a tack line. Depending upon where I look, it seems that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’. All I have is a 70’ ½” line. Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker? For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to be OK. The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”. Except for the ¼” line, they all seem short. Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’ long. Thanks, *Ron* Ron Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Around here, Bar Keeper's Friend is not found at marine supply stores, but most food stores carry it like Shop Rite, Acme, etc. It is found near the other kitchen cleaning products. There is a powder in a can (like Ajax) and a liguid creme in a tube. Good stuff that has been made for 100 years. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 3:35:02 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding Barkeeper's Friend. Available at Canadian Tire. I swear by this stuff. (it's acid based, forget which acid, but I've been using it on my gelcoat for years on two boats). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 3:01 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I think hou are on the right track. You will get a better job. I can do welding but when my stern pulpit need work I took it in. They did a much better job than I could have done. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2
I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great. Bill Bina On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote: Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the foredeck. What hardware is best in this application? Allen Miles s/v Septima Hampton, VA Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Pics from the PNW RDV
https://flic.kr/s/aHskhTRVdU___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
I also would like to see those pictures, my 35 mkII does not have a bow roller or a chain locker. My email address is kurt_heck...@att.net___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2
Does the CC 30 have a deck track which provides more or less tension on the baby stay? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 18, 2015 7:16 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Snap shackle on mine Joel On Tuesday, August 18, 2015, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I too would like to do something with my 30-2 baby stay. I actually saw a 30-1 near by with a 3 or 4 to 1 purchase with a cam cleat (like a traditional boom vang) for his baby stay. I very much like this idea in that it is a) removable and b) could be tension-ed for mid section mast bend in blowy conditions. I hope to do away with the cable and replace with Dyneema or eq, and then connect the purchase to the bottom of that. It's not high on my project list right now however. Kevin Portland 30-2 On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 2:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yep, pelican hook, same here. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 18, 2015 5:36 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great. Bill Bina On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote: Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the foredeck. What hardware is best in this application? Allen Miles s/v Septima Hampton, VA Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2
I too would like to do something with my 30-2 baby stay. I actually saw a 30-1 near by with a 3 or 4 to 1 purchase with a cam cleat (like a traditional boom vang) for his baby stay. I very much like this idea in that it is a) removable and b) could be tension-ed for mid section mast bend in blowy conditions. I hope to do away with the cable and replace with Dyneema or eq, and then connect the purchase to the bottom of that. It's not high on my project list right now however. Kevin Portland 30-2 On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 2:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Yep, pelican hook, same here. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 18, 2015 5:36 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great. Bill Bina On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote: Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the foredeck. What hardware is best in this application? Allen Miles s/v Septima Hampton, VA Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2
Snap shackle on mine Joel On Tuesday, August 18, 2015, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I too would like to do something with my 30-2 baby stay. I actually saw a 30-1 near by with a 3 or 4 to 1 purchase with a cam cleat (like a traditional boom vang) for his baby stay. I very much like this idea in that it is a) removable and b) could be tension-ed for mid section mast bend in blowy conditions. I hope to do away with the cable and replace with Dyneema or eq, and then connect the purchase to the bottom of that. It's not high on my project list right now however. Kevin Portland 30-2 On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 2:49 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: Yep, pelican hook, same here. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD On Aug 18, 2015 5:36 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com'); wrote: I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great. Bill Bina On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote: Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the foredeck. What hardware is best in this application? Allen Miles s/v Septima Hampton, VA Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com'); To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List anchor roller
Ditto Rick Brass Sent from my iPad On Aug 17, 2015, at 19:53, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Barbara, Send me your email address and I will send a few pics of Calypso’s custom bow roller. Martin DeYoung calyps...@outlook.com Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle image001.png From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 4:49 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers Subject: Re: Stus-List anchor roller Would some of y'all mind posting some pix of your bow/anchor rollers? With my toe rail, I've never been able to figure out exactly where the roller would go without ruining the look of my bow. The chain on my Fortress goes through either forward chock and gets cleated off. I pull my Fortress up by hand. Not a major deal but don't spend the night on the hook unless it's nice. Thanks!! Barbara L. Hickson Flight Risk CC33-1 Hull No. 145 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Raw water intake fouling A4
Barbara, I don’t think I want to add an external strainer, I would be concerned it would only further the fouling issues I have. I have pretty well convinced myself to remove the elbow (seacock is a new Groco FBV) and replace with a straight 3/4” fitting to 1” ID hose to a strainer and then to the engine from there. On another note, I would be interested in what upgrades you have done to your A4. Thus far mine has electronic ignition, the big Racor fuel filter, the smaller fuel polisher form Moyer and a carb rebuild. Once the raw water strainer is added I think I should pretty well be there. It seems to run pretty good so far but we just got the boat last August so I am still learning it. Our previous boat had a diesel. Thanks, Joe Scott 1976 CC 38 Copasetic Ashtabula OH From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, August 16, 2015 9:33 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers Subject: Stus-List Raw water intake fouling A4 Joe My set up is the same on my A4, a 90degree elbow from the thruhull. Not ideal but it is what it is. If you can change it to a straight, I'm sure that would help with the flow, but any Groco filter that will fit your space should be a good improvement for catching jellyfish, grasses, etc. The canisters are clear and you can see any debris that collects in there. At your next haulout, you may consider adding a strainer to the exterior of the hullside inlet. I don't have one, but it couldn't hurt. Many of the owners here have converted to diesels but Moyer Marine has an awesome forum for A4 owners. I love my A4, she's original to my '76 33-1 and runs like a Roman soldier. I've done a lot of maintenance on my A4, message me if you have any questions. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor secure line
Hi David, I keep a short length of 1/4 braided line on the bow to hold my anchor. One end is tied to a padeye and the other has a snap shackle that I clip into the anchor shank or into the shackle. I adjust the line so I have to pull the anchor snuggly against the roller to clip it on. The chain is also holding the anchor. I usually pull the rode up by hand and get it oriented and pull it right onto the roller. It's a Delta anchor and the roller helps it orient itself onto the launcher. If it comes up side ways or backward, it hits the roller and starts turning. I just wait for it to turn the right way and pull the last three feet of chain and it goes right in. No leaning over the bow. I round the cleat with the chain and clip the snap shackle security line on. Done. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CnC CnC discussion list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com Sent: Monday, August 17, 2015 2:28:11 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Anchor roller I have chain connected to the anchor so I am all chain at the point we are talking about. How do you attach a line to the chain at that point to be able to tie it off? I can see having a chain hook with a line that I leave in the anchor locker, but it seems like it would be challenging to tie a line to the chain one handed while supporting the anchor. Doing all of this in rough weather with the anchor swinging from the bow sounds like a recipe for disaster. Is a windlass powerful enough to pull the stem over the roller? One additional question: how to people secure the anchor to the roller once it is in place? I used to use a pin, but after that got bent and the anchor could not be deployed, I stopped using one on the recommendation of this list. I now run a small high tech line from the stem through a deck eye and back to the bow cleat, but I wonder if a chain hook would be a better idea. Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT On Aug 17, 2015, at 10:41 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I was using the windless to pull the chain to the point where the shank of the anchor cleared the water. I have also pulled the chain by hand (before the battery was hooked up) and tied the chain off when the anchor broke the water. Once the chain is tied off (rolling hitch with a rope or a chain hook) I reach over the bow with the gaff and pull the anchor home. Cheers Bill Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:11 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: blockquote I am not sure I understand what you are doing. How do you support the anchor/chain while you get forward to get a gaff hooked onto it? Dave On Aug 17, 2015, at 8:46 AM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: blockquote I have a Rocna 20kg anchor and although I have a windlass I don't use it to pull the anchor over the roller. I use a gaff over the pulpit to hook on the roller of the anchor. Pull it home with no problem and can hold in place while I tighten it up. Works like a charm and a lot less stress on the equipment. Bill Mithrandir CC 35 MKII Sent from my iPhone On Aug 17, 2015, at 7:17 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: blockquote And now for something completely different- I have only used my anchor a few times, but I have found it really hard to recover by hand- much harder than the one I had on my CC34. The anchor is heavier- Rocna 27 lb, and the chain is heavier. I can pull it up by hand, but when it gets to the roller, there is no way to get the long stem of the anchor around the 90° turn of the roller. I am usually sitting in the anchor well with my feet braced to pull the chain up. At that point, I have to stand up and grab the chain so I can pull vertically to get the stem over the roller. There must be an easier way (other than a electric windlass). Does anyone have any tricks? Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com /blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com /blockquote Dr. David Knecht Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology Core Microscopy Facility Director University of Connecticut 91 N. Eagleville Rd. Storrs, CT 06269 860-486-2200 /blockquote blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
If you do install a swivel, you may have to add a shackle so the swivel doesn't ride down the anchor and jam sideways. That's how I left a 35-lb Delta on the bottom of Montague Harbour. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 23:28, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Although I’m not a great fan of having any more components than absolutely needed in an anchor rode, a swivel installed between the chain and anchor can ensure the anchor can rotate and more easily traverse the roller than a shackle. Locktite is a good thing to use when installing a swivel. Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless! On Aug 17, 2015, at 21:09, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Of course. Although I have to modify the one at the anchor because the pin gets hing up on the bow roller fitting. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message-- *From: *dwight veinot via CnC-List *Date: *Mon, Aug 17, 2015 11:17 *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com; *Cc: *dwight veinot; *Subject:*Re: Stus-List Anchor roller I hope you seized all the shackles Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug Mountjoy svPegasus LF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Rich Knowles Nanaimo, BC Boatless! ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Vote for us - Summer Sailstice Video Contest
Our downwind umbrella race made it as one of the six finalists in the Harken Sailstice contest. (http://www.summersailstice.com/harkenvideocontest ) Please vote for us. If we win something, we'll auction it off during high season (when the snowbirds get here) and give the proceeds to the local 'Manos de Amor' (hands of love) orphanage. BTW, I'm the kayak with the sail made from women's lingerie, that was bumped and dumped rather early in the race. We ran the race again on the 31st, just so I could finish. There's a video of that, too, but I need to update my web site. Wal ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40
Ron, For the symmetrical the 80' sheets you have should be long enough, but they may be hard on the hands in a breeze. I use the spin pole downhaul as a tack line. I added a shackle to the bow stem and move the snap shackle on the downhaul to the bow stem shackle. I know APS and others recommend longer sheets, but I don't see the need. For the symmetrical they need to go from the headstay to the turning block, around the winch and up to the trimmer. 50 may be short, but you would only be using 9/16 if downwind in a blow, not on a reach. The asym needs to be the length of the foot of the chute, plus from the headstay to the turning block around the winch and to the trimmer, or roughly 2x boat length. Hope this helps. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:04 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for their spinnakers. The FO left me a collection of lines and four spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical cruising). It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will need both sheets and a tack line. Depending upon where I look, it seems that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’. All I have is a 70’ ½” line. Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker? For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to be OK. The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”. Except for the ¼” line, they all seem short. Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’ long. Thanks, *Ron* Ron Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
From Wikipedia: Unlike some other abrasive cleaning products, such as Comet and Ajax, Bar Keepers Friend uses oxalic acid as its primary active ingredient. Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 18, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Barkeeper's Friend. Available at Canadian Tire. I swear by this stuff. (it's acid based, forget which acid, but I've been using it on my gelcoat for years on two boats). Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Spinnaker Sheets Guys 37+/40
On my 34+ I fly an asym on a sprit. I use 3/8 for spin sheets. I have 1/4 for light air. I would go minimum 3/8 and consider 7/16 for the 37+ 2x boat length is correct for the asym. I used to fly a symmetrical and just repurposed those sheets. One of the guys is now the tackline which I ran aft to the cockpit. Before I got the sprit when flying a cruising chute I used the downhaul line but put a snatch block on the anchor roller to get the tack out ahead of the forstay. Eric On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Ron, For the symmetrical the 80' sheets you have should be long enough, but they may be hard on the hands in a breeze. I use the spin pole downhaul as a tack line. I added a shackle to the bow stem and move the snap shackle on the downhaul to the bow stem shackle. I know APS and others recommend longer sheets, but I don't see the need. For the symmetrical they need to go from the headstay to the turning block, around the winch and up to the trimmer. 50 may be short, but you would only be using 9/16 if downwind in a blow, not on a reach. The asym needs to be the length of the foot of the chute, plus from the headstay to the turning block around the winch and to the trimmer, or roughly 2x boat length. Hope this helps. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 9:04 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I’m wondering what size and length other owners use for sheets/guys for their spinnakers. The FO left me a collection of lines and four spinnakers ( ½, ¾, 1-½ oz. symmetrical cruising). It doesn’t appear that I have anything for my cruising spinnaker and will need both sheets and a tack line. Depending upon where I look, it seems that I should have a sheet length between 80’ – 100’. All I have is a 70’ ½” line. Also, does anyone use parrel beads or an ATN tacker? For my symmetrical spinnakers, I have 2 guys 57’ x ½” which appear to be OK. The sheets I have are 80’ x ¼”, 63’ x ½” and 50’ x 9/16”. Except for the ¼” line, they all seem short. Mauri Pro sells sheets that are 92’ long. Thanks, *Ron* Ron Ricci S/V Patriot CC 37+ Bristol, RI ron.ri...@1968.usna.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Anchor roller
A swivel is a weak point on the anchor. When I set up my anchor I had to make sure that when the anchor came up it was clocked right on the chain. I just wish my roller furler was higher so the anchor shank would clear, but the PO didn't consult me on that. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: Jim Watts via CnC-ListDate: Tue, Aug 18, 2015 08:15To: 1 CnC List;Cc: Jim Watts;Subject:Re: Stus-List Anchor roller If you do install a swivel, you may have to add a shackle so the swivel doesn't ride down the anchor and jam sideways. That's how I left a 35-lb Delta on the bottom of Montague Harbour. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 17 August 2015 at 23:28, Knowles Rich via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Although I’m not a great fan of having any more components than absolutely needed in an anchor rode, a swivel installed between the chain and anchor can ensure the anchor can rotate and more easily traverse the roller than a shackle. Locktite is a good thing to use when installing a swivel. Rich KnowlesNanaimo, BC Boatless! On Aug 17, 2015, at 21:09, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Of course. Although I have to modify the one at the anchor because the pin gets hing up on the bow roller fitting. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Date: Mon, Aug 17, 2015 11:17To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: dwight veinot;Subject:Re: Stus-List Anchor roller I hope you seized all the shackles Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 12:23 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: On Pegasus I have a 46lb CQR and 125 ft of chain. I have an electric windlass. I have been anchored in 30 kt winds and slept great knowing I was going nowhere. The tough part was finding a shackle that would clear the bow roller. Sometimes I have to use a hook to pull the anchor over the bow roller. I have had 7 boats hanging off of my anchor. Granted thise times have been in very protected anchorages. In a crowded place I will tie a bouy (crab bouy) on my anchor before dropping. Always interesting to see where it winds up. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Rich KnowlesNanaimo, BC Boatless! ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
