Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd,

Here is a picture of my fittings.  They still need fully tightened.  Most
if not all of them are made by Banjo and are glass reinforced
polypropylene.  I'll admit that it is not specifically Marlon (I searched
high and low) but the specs and materials are as close a match as possible.

Josh
On Sep 28, 2015 11:34 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Polars

[Knowles Rich via CnC-List]

Geezly big mean white bears.

Rich Knowles
Nanaimo, BC
Boatless!





On Sep 28, 2015, at 21:41, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

Maybe.  What are Polars?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List C 37+ Polars
> Message-ID:
>   

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Polars

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Rick (and others),

Here is a link to the 37+ Polar Diagram. All I have. 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/37PlusPolars.pdf 
 

I do have a 37R SpeedPak too, but it is different than the 37+.



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






> On Sep 29, 2015, at 9:24 AM, Rick via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I wouldn't mind seeing the info if available from some kind soul.
> 
> Cheers
> Rick
> Paikea 37+
> 
> Sent from Windows Mail
> 
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎September‎ ‎29‎, ‎2015 ‎4‎:‎18‎ ‎AM
> To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> 
> For those that have been on this list for a very, very long time, polars are 
> like foredeck cows, but white and meaner.    Actually, polars are documents 
> that describe the expected (optimum) performance of the boat for all expected 
> wind speeds and directions.  The are usually in a polar plot graphical form 
> (thus they are called polars) and also include the data in a tabular form 
> (which I prefer for my purposes).  I intend to enter the data in a compute 
> racing program i wrote and have been using for years on a previous boat.
> 
> Ed:
> If you have it in the tabular form I would appreciate it.  Live long and 
> prosper.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 12:41 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Maybe.  What are Polars?
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200 
> 
> 
> > On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> >  wrote:
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
> > From: Gary Russell >
> > To: "C List" >
> > Subject: Stus-List C 37+ Polars
> > Message-ID:
> >

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Polars

[Rick via CnC-List]

I wouldn't mind seeing the info if available from some kind soul.


Cheers

Rick

Paikea 37+






Sent from Windows Mail





From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Tuesday‎, ‎September‎ ‎29‎, ‎2015 ‎4‎:‎18‎ ‎AM
To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Cc: Gary Russell





For those that have been on this list for a very, very long time, polars are 
like foredeck cows, but white and meaner.    Actually, polars are documents 
that describe the expected (optimum) performance of the boat for all expected 
wind speeds and directions.  The are usually in a polar plot graphical form 
(thus they are called polars) and also include the data in a tabular form 
(which I prefer for my purposes).  I intend to enter the data in a compute 
racing program i wrote and have been using for years on a previous boat.



Ed:

If you have it in the tabular form I would appreciate it.  Live long and 
prosper.




Gary

S/V High Maintenance

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA







~~~_/)~~




On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 12:41 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Maybe.  What are Polars?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
> From: Gary Russell 
> To: "C List" 
> Subject: Stus-List C 37+ Polars
> Message-ID:
>

Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There are a few other options to consider. Both to be used when on the hard.

 

1. Cut a thread in the raw water intake through-hull (from the outside) and 
screw in a nylon hose barb. Attach a length of a hose to it and drop the hose 
into a container with antifreeze. Run the engine until the pink goes out the 
other end. Here is a link to the PDF (a scan from the Good Old Boat) 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7h6hus4n5zutty/Winterizing.pdf?dl=0 .

 

2. A standard way, but let’s you bring the engine to the working temperature on 
the hard. Look at this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKky09u1fGU 

 

Btw. a couple of years ago, when I suggested using a tee on the raw water 
intake at the Sailboat Owners Forum, I got my head chewed off by many 
respondents. The idea was that this tee is below water and as such it creates 
another weak point. Especially, if you sail in sea water (salt), you better use 
a proper bronze tee (not brass) or Merelon.

 

Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don Wagner 
via CnC-List
Sent: September-28-15 17:20
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: Don Wagner
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

 

I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.

 

If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.

then: Shut engine off.

Close inlet seacock.

Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).

Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.

Use a funnel if necessary.

When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,

Shut off engine and replace filter lid.

This system has worked well for me for > 40 years

with my C 30 mk1 and my C 41.

 

Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.

 

Winterizing the water tanks is another story.

 

Don Wagner 

C 41 CB

Der Baron

West River MD

I

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List   

Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM

To: CnC CnC discussion list   

Cc: David Knecht   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

 

My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 15’ 
piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other 
into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and wait for 
the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  
It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, 
not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave 

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Listers, 

 

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake to 
make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, I 
need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 

 

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 

 


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log  

 







 

 






 

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  _  

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Marek,

+1 on the notion that the tee and shut off must be as good as the thru
hull/seacock.  No brass/PVC from the big-box stores below the water line!

Joel

On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 8:51 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There are a few other options to consider. Both to be used when on the
> hard.
>
>
>
> 1. Cut a thread in the raw water intake through-hull (from the outside)
> and screw in a nylon hose barb. Attach a length of a hose to it and drop
> the hose into a container with antifreeze. Run the engine until the pink
> goes out the other end. Here is a link to the PDF (a scan from the Good Old
> Boat) https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7h6hus4n5zutty/Winterizing.pdf?dl=0 .
>
>
>
> 2. A standard way, but let’s you bring the engine to the working
> temperature on the hard. Look at this:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKky09u1fGU
>
>
>
> Btw. a couple of years ago, when I suggested using a tee on the raw water
> intake at the Sailboat Owners Forum, I got my head chewed off by many
> respondents. The idea was that this tee is below water and as such it
> creates another weak point. Especially, if you sail in sea water (salt),
> you better use a proper bronze tee (not brass) or Merelon.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Don
> Wagner via CnC-List
> *Sent:* September-28-15 17:20
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
> *Cc:* Don Wagner
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
>
>
>
> I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.
>
>
>
> If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
>
> then: Shut engine off.
>
> Close inlet seacock.
>
> Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
>
> Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.
>
> Use a funnel if necessary.
>
> When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,
>
> Shut off engine and replace filter lid.
>
> This system has worked well for me for > 40 years
>
> with my C 30 mk1 and my C 41.
>
>
>
> Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.
>
>
>
> Winterizing the water tanks is another story.
>
>
>
> Don Wagner
>
> C 41 CB
>
> Der Baron
>
> West River MD
>
> I
>
>
>
> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM
>
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
>
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
>
>
>
> My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that
> fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about
> 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the
> other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and
> wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on
> the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am
> presuming that means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the
> heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>
>
>
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
> --
>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Rick via CnC-List]

I don't think the thermostat has anything to do with raw water (salt water in 
my case).  I guess it could be a couple of gallons or more in the system 
(intake, heat exchanger, and then wet muffler and exhaust) so you could pump 
several (even 5 gal) before you see it exit the exhaust. 

I will need to look up the freezing level of salt water but I don,t think it 
will hit that temp 2 feet below the surface of the water in Seattle. I don’t 
intend that it hit that level on the inside of the boat either. If it were 
stored out of the water then it would be a different issue.

My coolant (engine block) should be good to at least -30F.

I worry more about my (tankage) house water freezing. 

Rick

Paikea 37+








Sent from Windows Mail





From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: ‎Monday‎, ‎September‎ ‎28‎, ‎2015 ‎1‎:‎34‎ ‎PM
To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Cc: Josh Muckley





The assumption with your solution is that the boat is out of the water.  I 
winterize in the water.  Not only that but chemical cleanings and flushings 
might be desired anytime of the year. 

Josh 

On Sep 28, 2015 1:57 PM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  
wrote:


My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about 15’ 
piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other 
into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.I then start the engine and wait for 
the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom.  
It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am presuming that 
means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, 
not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave





Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT

  



On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:



Listers,



I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake to 
make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, I 
need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 




Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 






All the best,




Edd







Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log



















___

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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Polars

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

For those that have been on this list for a very, very long time, polars
are like foredeck cows, but white and meaner.    Actually, polars are
documents that describe the expected (optimum) performance of the boat for
all expected wind speeds and directions.  The are usually in a polar plot
graphical form (thus they are called polars) and also include the data in a
tabular form (which I prefer for my purposes).  I intend to enter the data
in a compute racing program i wrote and have been using for years on a
previous boat.

Ed:
If you have it in the tabular form I would appreciate it.  Live long and
prosper.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 12:41 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Maybe.  What are Polars?
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 5
> > Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
> > From: Gary Russell 
> > To: "C List" 
> > Subject: Stus-List C 37+ Polars
> > Message-ID:
> >

Re: Stus-List Winches for sale

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Joel, own interested. Can you send pics? Thanks!

On Tue, Sep 29, 2015, 7:17 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> These came off a friend's Sabre 28:
>
> (2) Barlow Self-Tailing winches (Model 23)- $350 each - great shape,
> covered most of their life. Chrome over brass.
> (2) Barlow Single Speed winches (Model 20) - $100 each - more chrome
> pitting - work great.
>
> I can forward pictures and contact info if anyone is interested.
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Stus-List Winches for sale

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

These came off a friend's Sabre 28:

(2) Barlow Self-Tailing winches (Model 23)- $350 each - great shape,
covered most of their life. Chrome over brass.
(2) Barlow Single Speed winches (Model 20) - $100 each - more chrome
pitting - work great.

I can forward pictures and contact info if anyone is interested.
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Status-List C 37+ Polars

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Well then, I don't have any.  Bears or performance charts.

Edd, I'd love to see yours.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Sep 29, 2015, at 6:23 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2015 00:13:34 -0700
> From: Knowles Rich 
> To: cnc-list Cnc-List 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37+ Polars
> Message-ID: <7fb84517-a759-49a8-ae0e-0bd86e368...@sailpower.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
> 
> Geezly big mean white bears.
> 
> Rich Knowles
> Nanaimo, BC
> Boatless!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 21:41, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Maybe.  What are Polars?
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> 
> 
>> On Sep 28, 2015, at 5:59 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Message: 5
>> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 20:44:38 -0400
>> From: Gary Russell 
>> To: "C List" 
>> Subject: Stus-List C 37+ Polars
>> Message-ID:
>>  

Re: Stus-List Winches for sale

[John Bousfield via CnC-List]

Joel,
We are interested.
John & Marjolein
dutch girl
C 36
Spring Lake, MI

On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> These came off a friend's Sabre 28:
>
> (2) Barlow Self-Tailing winches (Model 23)- $350 each - great shape,
> covered most of their life. Chrome over brass.
> (2) Barlow Single Speed winches (Model 20) - $100 each - more chrome
> pitting - work great.
>
> I can forward pictures and contact info if anyone is interested.
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Mark,

You might want to consider a boom kicker if you already have a vang.  It 
just keeps the boom up and eliminates the topping lift. I'm really happy 
with mine, though I always put the main halyard on the aft end of the 
boom when the sail's down.


http://www.boomkicker.com/

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/29/2015 5:33 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind 
to hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear)


I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut 
a few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the 
leach tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before 
hoisting?).


Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?  
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time 
savings - but maybe I should be adjusting it more?


Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plotter upgrade

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I am REALLY looking forward to dynamic laylines – Just installed an e
series,  (Thanks Fred!)  but I can’t get all the slick stuff yet, till I
install the Raymarine Depth/Speed Transducer and Anemometer – NMEA 0183
from my old B won’t cut it. Am waiting to be hauled out for that. I am
impressed with how far Raymarine has come since the old CRC Series. Altho, I
guess 13 years in electronics is like a hundred years in Electrical . . .

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 2:38 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine plotter upgrade

 

I finally got around to installing the chartplotter software upgrade
released in May.  If you race, it is certainly worth installing.

 

If your wind instruments are connected to your plotter, and you put in marks
as waypoints it will show you laylines, tacking angles etc.  You can also
ping the start line so it shows on the plotter and it has a race timer.  If
it shows time to the line I did not find that feature.  Looks like they are
trying to keep up with B


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Mark,
Garhauer makes excellent equipment, you can't go wrong there. As far as 
getting the leach tight when sailing, it sounds like you need to ease the 
topping lift so that the mainsheet can pull the boom farther down and thus 
tighten the leach. A rigid vang is not actually rigid, it is spring loaded 
and the boom height is controlled by the mainsheet and vang. I have one and 
still use a topping lift when the boat is at the dock.

James
Delaney
C 38 mk2
Oriental, NC


-Original Message- 
From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang


Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift
(which need to be replaced due to wear)

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List]

I have a Garhauer ridgid vang as well.  Love it to death.  I eliminated 
my topping lift all together with it.  When I'm at the
dock, I take the main halyard off and attach it to where the topping 
lift used to be to snug up.  Keeps halyard from slapping the
mast and keeps the rigid vang from making spring noises as the boat 
bounces a bit.


If you keep your topping lift, you need the ability to slack it off 
quite a bit so your mainsheet can pull down as much as the

sail will allow...

--
Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C 30
Armdale Y.C.
Halifax



-Original Message- From: Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 5:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang


Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift
(which need to be replaced due to wear)

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Very pleased with my Garhauer vang for racing and cruising.

-Original Message-
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" 
Sent: ‎2015-‎09-‎29 5:33 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" 
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang


Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear)

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?  
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Joe and Linda via CnC-List]

If you buy from Gauhauer, they will bring your order to the Toronto boat show. 
Which will save you on shipping costs.


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab® S

 Original message 
From: "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List"  
Date: 09-29-2015  5:33 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Dr. Mark Bodnar"  
Subject: Stus-List Rigid vang 


Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear)

I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).

Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?  
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?

Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Stus-List Rigid vang

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Thinking about projects for the boat.
I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with 
Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid 
boom vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to 
combine shipping.
I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to 
hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift 
(which need to be replaced due to wear)


I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the 
sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a 
few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach 
tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).


Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?  
Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings 
- but maybe I should be adjusting it more?


Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Mark,

As I said, I have a Boomkicker and I eliminated the topping lift and added the 
vang. I think that the rigid vang might be a bit more serious solution, but my 
boomkicker is doing its job fine. I think it is a tad cheaper and a bit lighter.

You don’t _need_ to fiddle around with the vang all the time. But it is quite 
handy not to have to deal with the topping lift when you set or drop the sail.

If you are getting the block and tackle from Garhauer, their van would come in 
the same shipment.

You can get the Boomkicker at Biennale.

Good luck

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

FWIW, the balsa on my 1990 34R is 3/4" thick on deck and the hull. All vertical 
walls of cockpit and coachroof and transom are solid laminate, w no core. The 
fiberglass unit that covers the companionway slides and moonroof has 3/8" 
balsa. I have samples from these areas. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:35:45 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness 



On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2". 
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations. 



If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds. 



Martin 

Calypso 

1971 C 43 

Seattle 

From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness 




Petar; 



If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½” 



Rick Brass 

Imzadi C 38 mk 2 

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1 

Washington, NC 







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM 
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list  
Cc: phorvati .  
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness 




Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C 38 Mk2 


Petar 

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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

you need to learn about what a topping lift is used for and when you do you
will understand that it has no effect on the leach; the leach line is a
sail adjustment, the topping lift has no useful function when under sail

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 6:33 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Thinking about projects for the boat.
> I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with
> Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid boom
> vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to combine
> shipping.
> I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to
> hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift (which
> need to be replaced due to wear)
>
> I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the sail
> is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a few
> inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach tight -
> easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).
>
> Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?
> Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings -
> but maybe I should be adjusting it more?
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Dwight, 
I keep the cutouts from any hole I've made in the boat over the last 12 years. 
I've added instruments, cut in vents on my transom, hole for shore power 
electrical, replaced the core around the mast collar, I cut a hole in the solid 
hull between the cove stripe and the toe rail for a bilge pump exit. Whenever I 
mount fittings w say 1/4" bolts, I overdrill w 1/2" drill, scrape out the balsa 
core and epoxy the hole solid, then redrill the right sized hole. I added 
grabrails to the fiberglass sprayhood. I upgraded my speedo and depth sensors 
and found the glass in that area to be solid and 3/4" thick. I added 4 solar 
fans which need a 4" hole thru the deck. 

So I have samples of the cockpit walls and transom and hull, and several deck 
areas. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "dwight veinot via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-l...@cnc-list.coms 
Cc: "dwight"  
Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2015 10:32:28 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness 

Chuck, 
why do you have these samples...what happened...I can't imagine you cut out 
samples just to learn the thickness 

Dwight Veinot 
C 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 
d.ve...@bellaliant.net 


On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 11:11 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 



FWIW, the balsa on my 1990 34R is 3/4" thick on deck and the hull. All vertical 
walls of cockpit and coachroof and transom are solid laminate, w no core. The 
fiberglass unit that covers the companionway slides and moonroof has 3/8" 
balsa. I have samples from these areas. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 


From: "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 1:35:45 PM 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness 



On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally 1/2". 
When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding it down a 
little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass laminations. 



If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able to 
verify that C did not use different thicknesses in newer designs/builds. 



Martin 

Calypso 

1971 C 43 

Seattle 

From: CnC-List [ cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] on behalf of Rick Brass via 
CnC-List [ cnc-list@cnc-list.com ] 
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness 




Petar; 



If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½” 



Rick Brass 

Imzadi C 38 mk 2 

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1 

Washington, NC 







From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of phorvati . 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM 
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: phorvati . < phorv...@gmail.com > 
Subject: Stus-List Balsa core thickness 




Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track 
section of deck on 1976 C 38 Mk2 


Petar 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine plotter upgrade

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Sometimes this technology takes some of the fun out of club racing but I
guess everyone wants to be a winner and tech helps if you want to pay for it

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 3:37 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I finally got around to installing the chartplotter software upgrade
> released in May.  If you race, it is certainly worth installing.
>
> If your wind instruments are connected to your plotter, and you put in
> marks as waypoints it will show you laylines, tacking angles etc.  You can
> also ping the start line so it shows on the plotter and it has a race
> timer.  If it shows time to the line I did not find that feature.  Looks
> like they are trying to keep up with B
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Raymarine Chartplotter

[Ted Drossos via CnC-List]

Joel, which Raymarine chart plotter do you have that will show laylines? I've 
got an older Raymarine e80. Do you know if a software upgrade on this unit will 
provide layline information?


Ted Drossos
Long Island NY
C 110
Lady in Red
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Stus-List rigid vang or boomkicker / toping lift discussion

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis and all,

I hate topping lifts!  I sail on a lot of different boats, and consider topping 
lifts a got-cha!  Taking a Valiant 42 North, we were over powered a little bit, 
so I dropped the traveler, and sheeted down the main to flatten it - I had all 
the outhaul already. Kathleen came up and said, ”You’d better flatten this boat 
- the owners wife is a power boater, and pretty miserable down here!" What - no 
wonder were were trying to burry the rail, the topping lift got me again!

This year we took the Coho Ho Ho rally folks up for a rigging seminar with Port 
Townsend Rigging.  Lisa pointed out that she considers the vang part of the 
reefing system, and they spec stronger vangs to raise the boom end to your 
reefing clue - Lisa is tiny and she can reef in a minute or two.  I was 
impressed.

Cheers, Lee  



On Sep 29, 2015, at 8:45 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the 
> main to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is not 
> hoisted.
> 
> In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or boomkicker.  
> If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom enough to twist 
> off the main.
> 
> The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you to 
> detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing.
> 
> Why?  To prevent damage to your mainsail.  Topping lifts, in particular, wire 
> topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main.  In 
> severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten pocket 
> gives out.  Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they will, 
> over time, cause damage to the stitching.
> 
> We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom.  It is 
> always detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast.  We have a 
> Garhauer rigid boom vang.
> 
> On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the 
> mainsail is not hoisted.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___


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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake Tee

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Read somewhere to add a bronze tee to the thruhull. 
This allows you to easily check or clear a blockage while cruising and easily 
winterize the engine, in or out of the water. I keep a bronze plug screwed into 
top port except for winterizing. I have a short maybe 4' length of 3/4" hose w 
a ball valve. I place the hose in a 5 gallon bucket of antifreeze and suck the 
pink stuff through the water strainer, the pump, the heat exchanger, muffler 
and exhaust hose. The thermostat only throttles the fresh water, not the raw 
water, but I usually warm the engine to change the oil, do that first, and then 
winterize. 

I like this setup because it allows me to connect a water hose in the spring to 
test run the engine prior to launch. I like to be sure she'll start before I 
have her picked up by the travel lift. 

I rig a second bucket under the exhaust and catch the antifreeze and use that 
to treat the sinks, ice box, bilge and bilge pumps. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "John Pennie via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "John Pennie"  
Sent: Monday, September 28, 2015 8:42:28 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake 

What am i missing here? For 20+ years all I’ve done, is close the engine raw 
water in, run the engine while pouring a couple of gallons of antifreeze in 
through the top of the raw water strainer. When it comes out pink at the 
exhaust end I stop. Once on the hard I open the raw water intake and let 
whatever remains in the intake hose drain. Is this a purely an in-water issue? 

John 




On Sep 28, 2015, at 8:27 PM, robert via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 

David: 

I do the same on the 'hard'remove the raw water hose in front of the raw 
water pump.connect a hose to the pump to a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit 
with a running fresh water hose into the bucket...flush the engine of salt 
water with fresh water .heat the engine up.stop engine.empty 
bucket.then fill bucket with 2 gallons of antifreeze (1 gal. undiluted + 1 
gal water 50% - 50% mixture) .run until antifreeze exists transom.has 
worked that way for me for 10 years now. Pretty simple. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C 32 -84 
Halifax. N.S. 


On 2015-09-28 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: 


My solution is simpler. I found a tubing size at the hardware store that fit 
snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake. I got about 15’ piece, 
fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the other into a 
bucket of antifreeze on deck. I then start the engine and wait for the 
antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on the transom. It 
takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts. I am presuming that means 
the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the heat exchanger, not the 
closed loop antifreeze flow? Dave 

Aries 
1990 C 34+ 
New London, CT 





On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> wrote: 

Listers, 

I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water intake to 
make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things stand now, I 
need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and pull on the hose 
in a tight little area. 

Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use? 


All the best, 

Edd 


Edd M. Schillay 
Starship Enterprise 
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B 
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











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Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Chuck,
why do you have these samples...what happened...I can't imagine you cut out
samples just to learn the thickness

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 11:11 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> FWIW, the balsa on my 1990 34R is 3/4" thick on deck and the hull.All
> vertical walls of cockpit and coachroof and transom are solid laminate, w
> no core.  The fiberglass unit that covers the companionway slides and
> moonroof has 3/8" balsa.  I have samples from these areas.
>
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"Martin DeYoung via CnC-List"  *Cc: *"Martin DeYoung" 
> *Sent: *Monday, September 28, 2015 1:35:45 PM
>
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
> On Calypso, built in 1970 at Bruckmann's, the deck balsa is nominally
> 1/2".  When replacing failed balsa I have been purchasing 1/2" then sanding
> it down a little to leave room for epoxy and filler and the new epoxy/glass
> laminations.
>
>
>
> If you remove a fastener in the general area of the deck you would be able
> to verify that C did not use different thicknesses in newer
> designs/builds.
>
>
>
> Martin
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C 43
>
> Seattle
> --
> *From:* CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Rick Brass
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 7:28 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>
> Petar;
>
>
>
> If I recall correctly, it is about 3/8” – perhaps ½”
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *phorvati
> . via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, September 26, 2015 8:01 PM
> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
> *Cc:* phorvati . 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Balsa core thickness
>
>
>
> Does anyone know what the thickness of balsa core is along the geona track
> section of deck on 1976 C 38 Mk2
>
> Petar
>
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Re: Stus-List Rigid vang

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I believe the topping lift can be used to open up the top of the mainsail
or create twist.  The same way moving the car on the jib sheet back creates
headsail twist.  This is useful if you find that you have slightly too much
sail up for the wind conditions or to create more fullness in light air
when the weight of the boom is pulling down too hard.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 29, 2015 10:30 PM, "dwight veinot via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> you need to learn about what a topping lift is used for and when you do
> you will understand that it has no effect on the leach; the leach line is a
> sail adjustment, the topping lift has no useful function when under sail
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 6:33 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Thinking about projects for the boat.
>> I definitely need a new main sheet system - and expect I'll go with
>> Marek's Garhauer suggestion.  But that then raises the idea of a rigid boom
>> vang - If I'm going to buy one in the near future it's better to combine
>> shipping.
>> I'm not racing, and rarely use the existing vang (except for downwind to
>> hold down the boom).  Currently boat is set up with a topping lift (which
>> need to be replaced due to wear)
>>
>> I never adjust my topping lift - I have it set so it's slack when the
>> sail is fully hoisted, and then when the sail is dropped it comes taut a
>> few inches lower (maybe that's why I have a hard time getting the leach
>> tight - easier if if I tightened up the topping lift before hoisting?).
>>
>> Any thoughts?  I've never used a rigid vang.  People happy with them?
>> Given I don't adjust the topping lift I'm not seeing a big time savings -
>> but maybe I should be adjusting it more?
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>
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Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the
main to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is
not hoisted.

In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or
boomkicker.  If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom
enough to twist off the main.

The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you
to detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing.

Why?  To prevent damage to your mainsail.  Topping lifts, in particular,
wire topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main.
In severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten
pocket gives out.  Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they
will, over time, cause damage to the stitching.

We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom.  It is
always detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast.  We have a
Garhauer rigid boom vang.

On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the
mainsail is not hoisted.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Raymarine plotter upgrade

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I finally got around to installing the chartplotter software upgrade
released in May.  If you race, it is certainly worth installing.

If your wind instruments are connected to your plotter, and you put in
marks as waypoints it will show you laylines, tacking angles etc.  You can
also ping the start line so it shows on the plotter and it has a race
timer.  If it shows time to the line I did not find that feature.  Looks
like they are trying to keep up with B

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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