Marek,

+1 on the notion that the tee and shut off must be as good as the thru
hull/seacock.  No brass/PVC from the big-box stores below the water line!

Joel

On Tue, Sep 29, 2015 at 8:51 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There are a few other options to consider. Both to be used when on the
> hard.
>
>
>
> 1. Cut a thread in the raw water intake through-hull (from the outside)
> and screw in a nylon hose barb. Attach a length of a hose to it and drop
> the hose into a container with antifreeze. Run the engine until the pink
> goes out the other end. Here is a link to the PDF (a scan from the Good Old
> Boat) https://www.dropbox.com/s/c7h6hus4n5zutty/Winterizing.pdf?dl=0 .
>
>
>
> 2. A standard way, but let’s you bring the engine to the working
> temperature on the hard. Look at this:
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PKky09u1fGU
>
>
>
> Btw. a couple of years ago, when I suggested using a tee on the raw water
> intake at the Sailboat Owners Forum, I got my head chewed off by many
> respondents. The idea was that this tee is below water and as such it
> creates another weak point. Especially, if you sail in sea water (salt),
> you better use a proper bronze tee (not brass) or Merelon.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Don
> Wagner via CnC-List
> *Sent:* September-28-15 17:20
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
> *Cc:* Don Wagner
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
>
>
>
> I’ve used David’s technique if I’m on the hard. It works great.
>
>
>
> If I’m still in the water, I run the engine normally to get it warm.
>
> then: Shut engine off.
>
>             Close inlet seacock.
>
>             Remove lid from inlet water filter (Groco).
>
>             Restart engine while pouring antifreeze in the filter.
>
>             Use a funnel if necessary.
>
>             When pink antifreeze appears at  the exhaust,
>
>             Shut off engine and replace filter lid.
>
> This system has worked well for me for > 40 years
>
> with my C&C 30 mk1 and my C&C 41.
>
>
>
> Remember to open the seacock in the Spring.
>
>
>
> Winterizing the water tanks is another story.
>
>
>
> Don Wagner
>
> C&C 41 CB
>
> Der Baron
>
> West River MD
>
> I
>
>
>
> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 1:56 PM
>
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> *Cc:* David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake
>
>
>
> My solution is simpler.  I found a tubing size at the hardware store that
> fit snugly into the outside opening of the raw water intake.  I got about
> 15’ piece, fill it with antifreeze and plug one end into the intake and the
> other into a bucket of antifreeze on deck.    I then start the engine and
> wait for the antifreeze to be sucked through and come out the exit port on
> the transom.  It takes surprisingly long, before the suction starts.  I am
> presuming that means the thermostat controls the raw water flow through the
> heat exchanger, not the closed loop antifreeze flow?  Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
>
> 1990 C&C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 28, 2015, at 11:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>
>
>
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>
>
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
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>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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