Re: Stus-List Edson Pedestal install

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

Spencer, I'd like to see your installation, thanks
 

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584;
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 
 
-Original Message-
From: ssjohnson via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: ssjohnson 
Sent: Sun, Oct 18, 2015 9:58 pm
Subject: Stus-List Placement of control head





DaveI just replaced my pedestal with an Edson Vision seriesthus I have 
two pedestal 'arms' ... one with a Edson single pod (that can be swiveled 180 
degrees to be viewed/controlled  from the helm or cockpit ) that I used with a 
ST60 auto pilot control head, the other had a garmin GPS MAP 478 .
Let me know if you are interested. ... contact me offline.  Does anybody need a 
replacement conventional pedestal...???
Spencer Johnson 
'84 LF 38 "Alegria "





Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone


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Re: Stus-List Placement of control head

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Spencer,

Could we have some pictures please?

Josh Muckley
On Oct 18, 2015 9:58 PM, "ssjohnson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

>
> DaveI just replaced my pedestal with an Edson Vision seriesthus I
> have two pedestal 'arms' ... one with a Edson single pod (that can be
> swiveled 180 degrees to be viewed/controlled  from the helm or cockpit )
> that I used with a ST60 auto pilot control head, the other had a garmin GPS
> MAP 478 .
> Let me know if you are interested. ... contact me offline.  Does anybody
> need a replacement conventional pedestal...???
> Spencer Johnson
> '84 LF 38 "Alegria "
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
>
> ___
>
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Stus-List Placement of control head

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

DaveI just replaced my pedestal with an Edson Vision seriesthus I have 
two pedestal 'arms' ... one with a Edson single pod (that can be swiveled 180 
degrees to be viewed/controlled  from the helm or cockpit ) that I used with a 
ST60 auto pilot control head, the other had a garmin GPS MAP 478 .Let me know 
if you are interested. ... contact me offline.  Does anybody need a replacement 
conventional pedestal...???Spencer Johnson '84 LF 38 "Alegria "

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE smartphone___

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Re: Stus-List : Re: Placement of autopilot control head?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dave — the only way I know of controlling a Raymarine autopilot on an iPad or 
similar WiFi-connected device is to use the Ray Control app through a Raymarine 
WiFi-capable MFD, with the autopilot control enabled.  The smallest 
(least-expensive) MFD you could use would be the 5.7” a68 for well under $1000 
USD.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Oct 18, 2015, at 4:24 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head? 
> 
> Thanks all for the great input on this.   Runs the gamut and validates my own 
> conflicting ideas.  certainly though:
> 
> One needs to be able to control autopilot from the helm, and it's a  bonus to 
> be able to control from forward of the helm.
> It appears as though one needs a raymarine mfd to do this, something I had 
> hoped to avoid. (B-o-a-t and obsolete in 3 yrs) 
> 
> Wireless remotes and iPads have been mentioned - in order to operate the p70 
> wirelessly, does one need the ray MFD with wifi capability, or does remote 
> operation work with nmea wifi multiplexers or other wifi routers?   (Would 
> assume this is all proprietary, knowing Ray). None of this is clear in the 
> searching I have done.  
> 
> When using an iPad with the ray mfd, do you have full control of the 
> autopilot?   I have read that control options are limited for safety reasons. 
>  
> 
> Reason I ask all this is that I'm trying to keep my install very clean - no 
> pods or permanent chartplotter at helm.   Ideally the i70 and p70 on the 
> bulkhead by the companionway, filling the two existing holes.   Chartplotter 
> etc at helm (or anywhere else) wirelessly via tablet on RAM mount.  Wireless 
> was to be supplied by a generic nmea 2000 router.   Ideally
> 
> Looks like a smaller mfd at helm might be the best primary solution anyway, 
> provided it can fully control the autopilot.   no wifi issues, and no worry 
> about having to recharge the tablet.  That said, the 3rd party software and 
> interoperability seems to be improving daily.
> 
> Dave

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Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Tis the season...i just replaced my leaking pressure relief valve too!! (and 
the element and anode!).  

I also noticed that the valve didn't have a drain hose on it, so it was 
dripping around the base of the tankand that provides the explanation for 
the shock that I received when I changed out the heating element a few weeks 
ago.

The tank didn't work when I bought the boat and I finally got around to dealing 
with it this year.


Mike
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Engine Overheat Question

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

What strikes me is that you stated that the alarm "stayed" on after you started 
the engine following your half hour of sailing.  My experience with cooling 
problems (either with the fresh water or the internal recirculating cooling) is 
that is usually takes a few to several minutes for the engine to overheat and 
the temp alarm to sound if one of these systems is not working properly. 

If the problem was with something mechanical, i would have expected that you 
could have motored for a few minutes before the engine overheated. Perhaps 
check the T sensor grounding and connections?

Mike 
Atacama 33 mkii
Toronto
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Stus-List Engine Overheat Question

[robert via CnC-List]

Al:
What happened with the engine alarm going off could have been caused by 
a number of thingsa slipping belt, a temporary obstruction to the 
raw water intake (plastic bag that came out when you sailed back to the 
harbor), you said you "shut down and checked the water filter"...now 
here's a probable cause...happened to methe wing nut screws on the 
raw water filter came loose (or were not tightened enough) and the raw 
water system was sucking in more 'air' than 'water'..a few turns on 
the wing nuts, engine alarm problem solved.


My point, there is no one problem/solution.you will figure it out.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-10-18 8:24 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


There is a chance that the belt was slipping.  When you stopped the 
engine, it may have given it a chance to "re-seat" the belt.  Next 
time you started the engine it had enough friction to grab, once it 
overcame the starting torque it stayed going and the problem no longer 
presented itself.  If it happens again, check the belt to see if it is 
slipping.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Oct 18, 2015 7:09 PM, "Al Serrato via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I'm looking for advice on a situation that arose yesterday. I have
a 34 with a 3GMD diesel with raw water cooling. I motored for
about 45 minutes at 2000 rpm and then shut the engine down.
Everything was running smoothly. The temp gauge showed the normal
100 degrees and I could hear water from the exhaust. I sailed for
about half hour but then lost the wind and turned the motor on.
The high temp alarm stayed on and the gauge showed 140 degrees.  I
shut it down and checked the water filter, which looked fine. I
tried starting it a couple more times with the same result, so I
sailed back to my harbor. When I went to start it, everything
worked fine again, and I ran the motor for a good 30 minutes with
no issues. The gauge stayed at 100 the whole time and no alarm.

I initially thought it might have been the impeller (which is
about 1.5 years old right now), but when the problem arose I
didn't check for the sound of exhaust water. Since it was working
back at the harbor, I don't think the impeller was bad. I'm
starting to think that the sending unit malfunctioned and then
reset itself somehow but that's never happened before.

I'm not sure what temp triggers the high temp alarm and whether
the same sending unit goes to both the alarm and the gauge.

Am I missing something obvious?
Were there other steps I should have taken to diagnose it? I was
of course concerned to run the engine for long if it was overheating.
What next steps should I take, since everything seems fine right now.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Al Serrato
C & C 34
Fidelity
San Francisco Bay
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Stus-List Subject: Re: Recycling old dodger

[Davidmidkiff via CnC-List]

Tim, if no one else wants your old dodger, I would.  I have just bought an
84 C&C 35 MKIII and she currently does not have a dodger.

David Midkiff
84 C&C 35 MKIII
Chesapeake, VA


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Re: Stus-List : Re: Placement of autopilot control head?

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

On my (small in comparison) C&C 27 with wheel steering, cockpit is obviously 
smaller and space is at a premium. Here's a few comments on what I was 
planning that might help generate some further discussion and/or ideas.


- I've got a Raymarine autopilot but have yet to install it (the binnacle 
right now is torn apart doing some repairs and a bit of a refurb).
- I have a 3-instrument Navpod to go on the pedestal guard, but would have 
to raise the height of the guard to mount it.
- I also have a Standard Horizon chartplotter that's getting mounted there 
on a small shelf clamped to the guard.
- Even if I don't put the Navpod on the guard, ideally raising the height of 
the guard will allow me to swivel the chartplotter to see it from forward of 
the helm and get the top bent portion high enough to provide a handhold and 
help to avoid someone from grabbing the chartplotter by mistake to steady 
themselves.
- If I don't put the Navpod on the binnacle guard, then I was thinking of 
mounting it over the companionway hatch under the dodger on a custom bracket 
(it would just fit I think). Regardless I'd like to get the instruments off 
of the bulkhead next to the companionway as they are often obstructed by 
someone sitting there.


Given all of the above I had always considered that the autopilot control 
head would be mounted on the port cockpit coaming so that it can be operated 
from both behind and forward of the helm. I had considered a Navpod on the 
binnacle that could swivel, but the are just too large to accommodate.


Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII 



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Re: Stus-List Engine Overheat Question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

There is a chance that the belt was slipping.  When you stopped the engine,
it may have given it a chance to "re-seat" the belt.  Next time you started
the engine it had enough friction to grab, once it overcame the starting
torque it stayed going and the problem no longer presented itself.  If it
happens again, check the belt to see if it is slipping.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 18, 2015 7:09 PM, "Al Serrato via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I'm looking for advice on a situation that arose yesterday. I have a 34
> with a 3GMD diesel with raw water cooling. I motored for about 45 minutes
> at 2000 rpm and then shut the engine down. Everything was running smoothly.
> The temp gauge showed the normal 100 degrees and I could hear water from
> the exhaust. I sailed for about half hour but then lost the wind and turned
> the motor on. The high temp alarm stayed on and the gauge showed 140
> degrees.  I shut it down and checked the water filter, which looked fine. I
> tried starting it a couple more times with the same result, so I sailed
> back to my harbor. When I went to start it, everything worked fine again,
> and I ran the motor for a good 30 minutes with no issues. The gauge stayed
> at 100 the whole time and no alarm.
>
> I initially thought it might have been the impeller (which is about 1.5
> years old right now), but when the problem arose I didn't check for the
> sound of exhaust water. Since it was working back at the harbor, I don't
> think the impeller was bad. I'm starting to think that the sending unit
> malfunctioned and then reset itself somehow but that's never happened
> before.
>
> I'm not sure what temp triggers the high temp alarm and whether the same
> sending unit goes to both the alarm and the gauge.
>
> Am I missing something obvious?
> Were there other steps I should have taken to diagnose it? I was of course
> concerned to run the engine for long if it was overheating.
> What next steps should I take, since everything seems fine right now.
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
>
> Al Serrato
> C & C 34
> Fidelity
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Stus-List Engine Overheat Question

[Al Serrato via CnC-List]

I'm looking for advice on a situation that arose yesterday. I have a 34 with a 
3GMD diesel with raw water cooling. I motored for about 45 minutes at 2000 rpm 
and then shut the engine down. Everything was running smoothly. The temp gauge 
showed the normal 100 degrees and I could hear water from the exhaust. I sailed 
for about half hour but then lost the wind and turned the motor on. The high 
temp alarm stayed on and the gauge showed 140 degrees.  I shut it down and 
checked the water filter, which looked fine. I tried starting it a couple more 
times with the same result, so I sailed back to my harbor. When I went to start 
it, everything worked fine again, and I ran the motor for a good 30 minutes 
with no issues. The gauge stayed at 100 the whole time and no alarm.

I initially thought it might have been the impeller (which is about 1.5 years 
old right now), but when the problem arose I didn't check for the sound of 
exhaust water. Since it was working back at the harbor, I don't think the 
impeller was bad. I'm starting to think that the sending unit malfunctioned and 
then reset itself somehow but that's never happened before. 

I'm not sure what temp triggers the high temp alarm and whether the same 
sending unit goes to both the alarm and the gauge.

Am I missing something obvious? 
Were there other steps I should have taken to diagnose it? I was of course 
concerned to run the engine for long if it was overheating.
What next steps should I take, since everything seems fine right now.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Al Serrato
C & C 34
Fidelity
San Francisco Bay
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Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Maybe just get rid of the whole thing.

It's not like you need to heat hot water anyway. :)

On a serious note, we had a very pleasant race 
today. Very light at the downwind (spinny up) 
start and gradually filled in to an eight knot sou'easter. Mild and dry.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 10:52 AM 18/10/2015, you wrote:
After spending several hours looking for the 
source of a water system leak, it turned out to 
be a worn out safety pressure valve on the hot 
water heater.  Luckily, it came out easily.


Off to Home Depot for a replacement.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List : Re: Placement of autopilot control head?

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head? 

Thanks all for the great input on this.   Runs the gamut and validates my own 
conflicting ideas.  certainly though:

One needs to be able to control autopilot from the helm, and it's a  bonus to 
be able to control from forward of the helm.
It appears as though one needs a raymarine mfd to do this, something I had 
hoped to avoid. (B-o-a-t and obsolete in 3 yrs) 

Wireless remotes and iPads have been mentioned - in order to operate the p70 
wirelessly, does one need the ray MFD with wifi capability, or does remote 
operation work with nmea wifi multiplexers or other wifi routers?   (Would 
assume this is all proprietary, knowing Ray). None of this is clear in the 
searching I have done.  

When using an iPad with the ray mfd, do you have full control of the autopilot? 
  I have read that control options are limited for safety reasons.  

Reason I ask all this is that I'm trying to keep my install very clean - no 
pods or permanent chartplotter at helm.   Ideally the i70 and p70 on the 
bulkhead by the companionway, filling the two existing holes.   Chartplotter 
etc at helm (or anywhere else) wirelessly via tablet on RAM mount.  Wireless 
was to be supplied by a generic nmea 2000 router.   Ideally

Looks like a smaller mfd at helm might be the best primary solution anyway, 
provided it can fully control the autopilot.   no wifi issues, and no worry 
about having to recharge the tablet.  That said, the 3rd party software and 
interoperability seems to be improving daily.

Dave







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Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

They often leak because they are not cycled often enough and get hard water
deposits caked on them.

Josh
On Oct 18, 2015 4:51 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> These valves have a tendency to leak after they are opened a few times.
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Indigo via CnC-List 
> Date: 2015-10-18 15:27 (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Indigo 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak
>
> Had exactly the same problem a couple of years ago. Finally sourced the
> leak when I found the water in the bilge to be slightly warm!
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> > On Oct 18, 2015, at 13:52, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > After spending several hours looking for the source of a water system
> leak, it turned out to be a worn out safety pressure valve on the hot water
> heater.  Luckily, it came out easily.
> >
> > Off to Home Depot for a replacement.
> >
> > Joel
> > 35/3
> > Annapolis
> >
> >
> > --
> > Joel
> > 301 541 8551
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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> >
>
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Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

These valves have a tendency to leak after they are opened a few times.
Marek


Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.

 Original message 
From: Indigo via CnC-List 
Date: 2015-10-18  15:27  (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Indigo 
Subject: Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

Had exactly the same problem a couple of years ago. Finally sourced the leak 
when I found the water in the bilge to be slightly warm!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 18, 2015, at 13:52, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
> After spending several hours looking for the source of a water system leak, 
> it turned out to be a worn out safety pressure valve on the hot water heater. 
>  Luckily, it came out easily.
>
> Off to Home Depot for a replacement.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Solar Bimini - Frame Connector Source

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Suncor stainless at bosun supply is pretty good for stainless parts.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 17, 2015 9:08 PM, "bobmor99 . via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Looking to build a solar bimini (rigid, no canvas) for Ox, a 1976 33-1.
> Today I bought a perfectly dimensioned 285W solar panel.
>
> https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/ele/5238729049.html
>
> I need a support structure and will probably source some 1" stainless
> tubing from Speedy Metals:
>
> http://www.speedymetals.com/c-8276-round-tube.aspx?thickness=1
>
> Not sure where best to find the various stainless connectors, i.e. jaws,
> eyes.
>
> SailRite seems like a possibility but I'm wondering if there's anything
> better. (I googled a bit) :-)
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Joel,

FYI, I found that the P&T valve on my Raritan water heater (75#) was rated
way lower than the ones they sell at the hardware store (150#).

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Oct 18, 2015 1:54 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> After spending several hours looking for the source of a water system
> leak, it turned out to be a worn out safety pressure valve on the hot water
> heater.  Luckily, it came out easily.
>
> Off to Home Depot for a replacement.
>
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Had exactly the same problem a couple of years ago. Finally sourced the leak 
when I found the water in the bilge to be slightly warm!

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

> On Oct 18, 2015, at 13:52, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> After spending several hours looking for the source of a water system leak, 
> it turned out to be a worn out safety pressure valve on the hot water heater. 
>  Luckily, it came out easily.
> 
> Off to Home Depot for a replacement.
> 
> Joel
> 35/3
> Annapolis
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

I don't like the auto tack feature, too damn slow for my liking.___

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Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[J Roger via CnC-List]

Roger Roger Tim

Much obliged Sir

JW
On Oct 18, 2015 9:06 AM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi John,
>
> There are a couple of people interested so far - one of whom may be
> challenged by fit and the other by shipping, so I'll let you know if those
> don't work out.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
> On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 11:25 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please
>> advise the vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the
>> bow?  Will measure ours tomorrow to see what will fit
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> John and Maryann
>>
>> Legacy III
>>
>> 1982 C&C 34
>>
>> Noank, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
>> Goodyear via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Tim Goodyear
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger
>>
>>
>>
>> The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:
>>
>>
>>
>> https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7
>>
>>
>>
>> Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be
>> replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new
>> one one.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Mojito
>>
>> C&C 35-3
>>
>> Branford, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Tim,
>>
>> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one
>> off a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern
>> pulpit to get the right height.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different
>> shaped version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone
>> know if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I
>> have the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
>> disintegrated at the same time.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
>>
>> Branford, CT
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> [image: Avast logo] 
>>
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
>> www.avast.com 
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Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

The height is 39"

> On Oct 17, 2015, at 11:25 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Tim
>  
> We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please advise 
> the vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the bow?  Will 
> measure ours tomorrow to see what will fit
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
> Goodyear via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Tim Goodyear
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger
>  
> The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:
>  
> https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7
>  
> Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be 
> replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new one 
> one.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>  
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Tim,
> 
> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one off 
> a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern pulpit 
> to get the right height.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped 
> version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know if 
> they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have the 
> old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching disintegrated 
> at the same time.
>  
> Thanks,
>  
> Tim
> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
> Branford, CT
>  
> ___
> 
> Email address:
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> of page at:
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> 
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> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
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> www.avast.com
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Stus-List ridiculous water leak

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

After spending several hours looking for the source of a water system leak,
it turned out to be a worn out safety pressure valve on the hot water
heater.  Luckily, it came out easily.

Off to Home Depot for a replacement.

Joel
35/3
Annapolis


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[svpegasus38]

Mine has moved from the coaming to a pod on the binicale. Much better 
location. I also have my chartplotter there. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: dwight veinot via CnC-ListDate: Sun, Oct 18, 
2015 10:01To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: dwight veinot;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Placement of autopilot control head?
I like where mine is mounted in a pod on the binnacle guard...works good with 
the auto tack feature when single handed

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net

On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 7:56 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List  
wrote:
winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing with 
raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the p70, is the 
control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing season with an 
autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment.  
I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so temporarily 
on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the helm, at knee 
height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that I could use the at 
like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod on pedestal) OR beside the 
companionway where it can be operated from under the dodger, when motoring. 
Leaning toward the former, but still not clear in my mindThoughts, 
suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
Dave



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___

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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I like where mine is mounted in a pod on the binnacle guard...works good
with the auto tack feature when single handed

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 7:56 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)
>
> Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing
> with raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the
> p70, is the control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing
> season with an autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment.
>
> I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so
> temporarily on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the
> helm, at knee height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that
> I could use the at like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod
> on pedestal) OR beside the companionway where it can be operated from under
> the dodger, when motoring. Leaning toward the former, but still not clear
> in my mind
> Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Steve

I have had the st 60 pack on Alianna for 7 or 8 years now and I really like
it, big numbers easy to read and no big issues with any component yet.
that is a very good price

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 2:47 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, anyone ever buy anything from sale-tools.com?
>
> http://www.sale-tools.com/categories/Marine-Electronics/Fishfinders%7B47%7DChartplotters/
>
> Their prices on marine electronics are unbelievable (literally). Seems
> fishy but I figured it's worth asking. Some of their stuff is older so it
> makes sense that it would be cheap (ST60 three pack for ~700 etc).
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Midland
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

This is why I don't let my wife read these emails. I don't want her getting the 
idea that she can recycle an old codger!

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Oct 18, 2015, at 09:05, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi John,
> 
> There are a couple of people interested so far - one of whom may be 
> challenged by fit and the other by shipping, so I'll let you know if those 
> don't work out.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> 
>> On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 11:25 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi Tim
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please advise 
>> the vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the bow?  Will 
>> measure ours tomorrow to see what will fit
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C&C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
>> Goodyear via CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Tim Goodyear
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be 
>> replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new 
>> one one.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>> Mojito
>> 
>> C&C 35-3
>> 
>> Branford, CT
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Tim,
>> 
>> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one 
>> off a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern 
>> pulpit to get the right height.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> 
>> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped 
>> version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know if 
>> they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have the 
>> old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching disintegrated 
>> at the same time.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Tim
>> 
>> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
>> 
>> Branford, CT
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
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>> 
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>> of page at:
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>> 
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

My new P70 is similar. Port side cockpit coaming. Challenging to read cause it 
is low and on an angle, but mine is protected where it is and can be reached 
from in front or behind the wheel. I do sometimes get disoriented and hit -10 
when I mean to hit +10 when racing singlehanded. I'd prefer to have it mounted 
at the helm, but that would cost more precious time and money to implement. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jake Brodersen"  
Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2015 10:10:42 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head? 



Dave, 



I have my ST4000 control mounted on the starboard side coaming. I find that it 
is a little too low when trying to read the display. It is also frequently 
bumped by people passing around the wheel. It’s way too easy to hit standby 
inadvertently. If I ever install a Navpod, I would move it to the pedestal. 



Jake 



Jake Brodersen 

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress” 

Hampton VA 







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Syer 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 06:56 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dave Syer 
Subject: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head? 




winter project 32a: upgrade electronics ('85 c&c33ii) 





Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing with 
raymarine p70, i70. both are multifunction displays, and one - the p70, is the 
control head for the autopilot. 2015 was my first sailing season with an 
autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment. 





I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so temporarily 
on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the helm, at knee 
height more or less. My season with the unit showed me that I could use the at 
like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod on pedestal) OR beside the 
companionway where it can be operated from under the dodger, when motoring. 
Leaning toward the former, but still not clear in my mind 


Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives? Thanks. 





Dave 










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Re: Stus-List Sale Tools

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Jim, from sale-tools? And all is fine with the gear?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 4:00 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I bought the ST60 wind unit direct from Raymarine *at the wholesale price
> West Marine pays* for the cost of the whole package. Certainly seems
> fishy.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 17 October 2015 at 10:47, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi, anyone ever buy anything from sale-tools.com?
>>
>> http://www.sale-tools.com/categories/Marine-Electronics/Fishfinders%7B47%7DChartplotters/
>>
>> Their prices on marine electronics are unbelievable (literally). Seems
>> fishy but I figured it's worth asking. Some of their stuff is older so it
>> makes sense that it would be cheap (ST60 three pack for ~700 etc).
>>
>> Thoughts?
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Midland
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I have my ST4000 control mounted on the starboard side coaming.  I find that it 
is a little too low when trying to read the display.  It is also frequently 
bumped by people passing around the wheel.  It’s way too easy to hit standby 
inadvertently.  If I ever install a Navpod, I would move it to the pedestal.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Syer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, October 17, 2015 06:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave Syer
Subject: Stus-List Placement of autopilot control head?

 

winter project 32a:  upgrade electronics  ('85 c&c33ii)

 

Am removing the vintage B&G hunter depth and speed instruments, replacing with 
raymarine p70, i70.  both are multifunction displays, and one - the p70, is the 
control head for the autopilot.   2015 was my first sailing season with an 
autopilot and I used it a lot - great investment.  

 

I was unsure where I wanted to mount the control head so I did so temporarily 
on the coaming in the beckson access hatch, adjacent to the helm, at knee 
height more or less.  My season with the unit showed me that I could use the at 
like two locations - at the helm, (enclosure/pod on pedestal) OR beside the 
companionway where it can be operated from under the dodger, when motoring. 
Leaning toward the former, but still not clear in my mind

Thoughts, suggestions, alternatives?   Thanks.

 

Dave

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Hi John,

There are a couple of people interested so far - one of whom may be
challenged by fit and the other by shipping, so I'll let you know if those
don't work out.

Thanks,

Tim

On Sat, Oct 17, 2015 at 11:25 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Tim
>
>
>
> We might be interested in giving these a good home.  Can you please advise
> the vertical dimension from the deck fitting to the peak of the bow?  Will
> measure ours tomorrow to see what will fit
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
> Goodyear via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Saturday, October 17, 2015 3:12 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tim Goodyear
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recycling old dodger
>
>
>
> The stainless dodger bows are 79" across, and here are some photographs:
>
>
>
> https://goo.gl/photos/Rpo3E8DA25y8vNYf7
>
>
>
> Available to a good home if any use to anyone.  All stitching needs to be
> replaced, but the cloth is not bad and it's a fair template to base a new
> one one.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> Mojito
>
> C&C 35-3
>
> Branford, CT
>
>
>
> On Tue, Oct 13, 2015 at 4:54 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> Post the width of the bow as a start.  I don't need it but I recycled one
> off a Pearson 365 for my aft Bimini.  Creatively mounted it on the stern
> pulpit to get the right height.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Oct 13, 2015 3:47 PM, "Tim Goodyear via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I replaced the dodger on my 35-3 earlier this year with a different shaped
> version and now have the old bows sitting in my garden.  Does anyone know
> if they would be useful to anyone rather than throwing them away?  I have
> the old dodger too - the cloth is OK'ish, but *all* the stitching
> disintegrated at the same time.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> Soon to be an ex-C&C owner (I hope you'll still let me lurk)
>
> Branford, CT
>
>
>
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