Re: Stus-List Best location for and small form factor start battery for

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

When the old battery "floor" collapsed, one winter, I rebuilt it and was able 
to make a larger platform with a lot more room for an extra battery in my 33 
mkii. I have a 4D gel cell and a group 24 in there with room enough to add a 
group 27. 
You just have to make sure you have enough height to accomodate the batteries.

Mike Amirault
C&C 33mkii "Lovely Cruise"
SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Thanks all - I had installed jiffy reefing on the prior boat, and used 
eyestraps and cheek blocks, worked great.   I do not have a loose footed main, 
and i do not recall grommets or slots to permit the reefing line to pass 
through.  I may have missed that, hidden in plain sight.   My main does have a 
"shelf" I think its called, which allows it to be flattened.   Will have a look 
at the sail tonight...
Dave






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Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

[Stephen Thorne via CnC-List]

636.pdf 
> <http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/wiringdiagrams/91_636.pdf>
> 
> No info on the value of the thermistor...
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Nov 27, 2015, at 6:47 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Now, how about the unreliability issue with the temperature sensing element 
>> of the Raymarine transducer? Is it a simple RTD and of what value, so I can 
>> haywire something in stead of it?
>> 
>>Cheers, Russ
>>Sweet 35 mk-1
>>B.C. South Coast, where it has dropped below freezing on some nights 
>> now!
> 
> -- next part --
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2015 22:01:59 -0500
> From: Andrew Burton 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing
> Message-ID: <8242bddf-bb46-4902-9541-2da2a00d1...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> There's strain against the foot of the sail unless the bowline is very small. 
> My way the knot is not placing any load on the sail when it's tightened. The 
> timber hitch works on our booms, just not the ones with hard corners.
> 
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine 
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI 
> USA02840
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> 
>> On Nov 29, 2015, at 21:18, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The article specifically says that the timber hitch doesn't work on 
>> flat-sided booms and I should use a bowline instead, but I never knew that 
>> before so it doesn't matter. Why would you run it through the grommet first? 
>> Serious question, I thought it was a little cleaner lead as I showed it. 
>> 
>> Jim Watts
>> Paradigm Shift
>> C&C 35 Mk III
>> Victoria, BC
>> 
>>> On 29 November 2015 at 17:32, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Jim, I don't like to use a bowline, but leaving that alone, I would lead 
>>> the reef line through the grommet and around the boom before tying it on 
>>> with whatever Knot you use.
>>> 
>>> Andy
>>> C&C 40
>>> Peregrine
>>> 
>>> Andrew Burton
>>> 61 W Narragansett
>>> Newport, RI 
>>> USA02840
>>> 
>>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>>> +401 965-5260
>>> 
>>>> On Nov 29, 2015, at 20:21, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> Picture: http://i.imgur.com/ORxsWEX.jpg?1
>>>> 
>>>> Jim Watts
>>>> Paradigm Shift
>>>> C&C 35 Mk III
>>>> Victoria, BC
>>>> 
>>>>> On 29 November 2015 at 17:16, Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> Hi Dave,
>>>>> 
>>>>> I borrowed a rivet gun from pal on my dock and put a padeye (not sure it 
>>>>> this is the right terminology - basically a U-shaped fitting) onto the 
>>>>> boom.
>>>>> 
>>>>> I run the bitter end to that and tie it off. I angled it so that the two 
>>>>> rivets are in line with the reef line. Works very well!!
>>>>> 
>>>>> Mike
>>>>> Atacama 33ii
>>>>> Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.
>>>>> Envoy? sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le r?seau de Bell.
>>>>> ___
>>>>> 
>>>>> Email address:
>>>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>>>> bottom of page at:
>>>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>> 
>>>> ___
>>>> 
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>>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
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> 
> Message: 15
> Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2015 18:36:33 -0900
> From: Josh Muckley 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> For anyone considering not using a timber hitch.  I use a bowline on a
> bite.  This allows the loop around the boom to cinch down similar to the
> timber hitch.  If a simple bowline were used then you are limited to the
> size of the loop made by the knot.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>> On Nov 29, 2015 6:59 PM, "Dave via CnC-List"  wrote:
>> 
>> Evening all.
>> Am wondering what I am doing a bit wrong here...
>> I have a 33ii with jiffy reefing lines run inside the boom.  They exit at
>> the end of the boom (alongside the out haul) where they are then run up to
>> their respective cringles.  I have simply used a stop knot in the cringle,
>> as there is no place to attach the bitter end on the boom after being rove
>> through the cringle.
>> Due to the geometry involved, the sail sets poorly and the boom sags, as
>> the line does not pull the cringle down tight to the boom, only out toward
>> the end of the boom.  I'm sure I'm missing something simple 
>> 
>> Any suggestions?   Many thanks!
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
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>> bottom of page at:
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> 
> Message: 16
> Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2015 11:15:31 -0400
> From: mike amirault 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Best location for and small form factor start
>batteryfor
> Message-ID: <277A527EED4B465EAA86CB4CD2984960@t60>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> When the old battery "floor" collapsed, one winter, I rebuilt it and was able 
> to make a larger platform with a lot more room for an extra battery in my 33 
> mkii. I have a 4D gel cell and a group 24 in there with room enough to add a 
> group 27. 
> You just have to make sure you have enough height to accomodate the batteries.
> 
> Mike Amirault
> C&C 33mkii "Lovely Cruise"
> SMSC
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> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
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> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> --
> 
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 118, Issue 79
> *

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Stus-List Club Team scoring with PHRF

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Hey listers;


We have two reasonably active PHRF fleets on the Neuse River in NC that are 
about 3 hours apart by boat.


In an effort to get boats to move from one venue to another (increasing the 
fleet size in each open but club run regatta), we have been using
a simple PHRF scoring scheme that has its problems so I thought I'd check the 
list to see if any of you have
solved it differently and perhaps with less drama than we have.


Each club run regatta has spin and non-spin classes with PHRF splits at about 
100 and 200, sometimes with divisions within
the classes. Clubs need 5 boats entered in total to qualify and then the top 5 
boat's scores from each club, whether
spin or non-spin, are averaged to determine the winning club. We really don't 
have enough boats racing
to routinely fix the PHRF splits for a season as the CBYRA apparently does. We 
have used both the default US Sailing scoring
system as well as the High Point Average at various times--we are familiar with 
them all. 


This has more or less worked unless the OA decides to extend the PHRF ratings 
to get enough boats in a division
to have better competition. Since our inter-club racing committee doesn't run 
these regattas (the clubs do),
our committee cannot require the clubs to use fixed PHRF splits or otherwise do 
anything except recommend the splits, 
fix the definition of cruising boats, etc.


Our clubs do not really have an option to buy and race the same boats for a 
team score as some (GYA, etc.) do. We are all
PHRF racers with cruisers or racer/cruisers with a few smaller but different 
boats (1 Viper, 1 J-80, 1 Rocket-22, 2 Etchells and sometimes
several San Juan 21s) all racing PHRF.


I doubt that there is an ideal solution but maybe the listers might be able to 
help me decide between "...the lesser of two "weevils..."'
on how to come up with a team score recognizing our limitations.


Our committee does not want to run the regattas, just score them (or team 
purposes) with minimum drama about the PHRF splits.


TIA,


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb


 


cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Best location for and small form factor start battery for yanmar 2gmf

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

Shorai makes a nice, lightweight, Lithium-Iron motorcycle battery.  
http://shoraipower.com/lfx18a1-bs12-p86

It starts my Harley easily and weighs about 2 pounds.  It’s also smaller than 
most motorcycle batteries.  That’s a lot of power in a small package.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2015 19:50
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Best location for and small form factor start battery 
for yanmar 2gmf

 

As discussed on this list before, an ACR or Xantrex Echo-charge is what you 
should use to keep the start and house banks separate but allow the alternator 
to charge both.  A combine switch allows for emergency starting with the house 
batteries.  A very small lead acid battery is enough to turn the engine.  If 
you don't have enough room for a U-1 tractor battery then you might find a 
motorcycle battery that will fit your needs.  Even two 6v motorcycle batteries 
might solve your space problem.  There are some great lithium options in 
motorcycle batteries too.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+ 

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Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Mike,

Unless you used stainless rivets, I doubt that aluminum rivets will hold up
in this application.  Since it's near the end of the boom, thru-bolting the
fitting may be more secure.  Even stainless rivets might pull out of an
aluminum boom when used without a backing plate, but in your case, the
fasteners are being tested for their shear strength.  Aluminum might last a
while, but stainless fasteners would be preferred.

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael
Crombie via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2015 20:16
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List 33ii mainsail reefing

Hi Dave,

I borrowed a rivet gun from pal on my dock and put a padeye (not sure it
this is the right terminology - basically a U-shaped fitting) onto the boom.

I run the bitter end to that and tie it off. I angled it so that the two
rivets are in line with the reef line. Works very well!!

Mike
Atacama 33ii 


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Re: Stus-List Best location for and small form factor start battery for yanmar 2gmf

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I knew I'd seen some cool options.  Those looked pretty awesome!  Small
enough to fit anywhere and powerful enough to start.

Josh
On Nov 30, 2015 5:49 PM, "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh,
>
>
>
> Shorai makes a nice, lightweight, Lithium-Iron motorcycle battery.
> http://shoraipower.com/lfx18a1-bs12-p86
>
> It starts my Harley easily and weighs about 2 pounds.  It’s also smaller
> than most motorcycle batteries.  That’s a lot of power in a small package.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, November 29, 2015 19:50
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Best location for and small form factor start
> battery for yanmar 2gmf
>
>
>
> As discussed on this list before, an ACR or Xantrex Echo-charge is what
> you should use to keep the start and house banks separate but allow the
> alternator to charge both.  A combine switch allows for emergency starting
> with the house batteries.  A very small lead acid battery is enough to turn
> the engine.  If you don't have enough room for a U-1 tractor battery then
> you might find a motorcycle battery that will fit your needs.  Even two 6v
> motorcycle batteries might solve your space problem.  There are some great
> lithium options in motorcycle batteries too.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Stus-List Tide prediction app for my IPad?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Through luck or skill, we managed to bring the 72' schooner I was on over
the weekend into the yard within 10 minutes after high tide - which was
pretty much what was intended, based on the presumption that high tide would
mean something close to slack water. Unfortunately, on arrival I found we
still had about 1.5 knots of flood current running, and it was across the
entrance to the haul slip we were headed for and pushing us away from the
dock where we were supposed to tie up.

 

I'm sure the combination of spring lines, prop walk, and current pushing the
bow around the corner was entertaining and instructive to the spectators in
the marina. But I'd just as soon avoid a repeat, and I now  recognize how
deficient the current information is in the navigation app I use on my IPad.
Weather and tide information is great, but I need a current prediction app
to supplement what I have on the device.

 

So what do you guys use and what would you recommend?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Fred,

Thanks for the link. I think maybe I should get 
one of my Instrument mechanics to see if they can 
come up with a value for the thermistor. 
Otherwise I might just grab a few and do it on a trial basis.


When it first started failing, years ago, I 
mentioned it at a C&C rendezvous and got a "don't 
worry, it happens all the time" kinda response. I 
would like to credit Jim but now I can't be sure. 
And when the one on Amazing Grace went too I came 
to believe it is common. Or maybe the Strait of 
Georgia is responding well to the promise of 
global warming and really is 120.4 degrees :)


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 06:44 PM 29/11/2015, you wrote:
This is the first one I’ve heard of that 
failed.  Usually they’re very 
reliable.  It’s just a thermistor potted in the transducer housing:


http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/wiringdiagrams/91_636.pdf

No info on the value of the thermistor...

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Nov 27, 2015, at 6:47 PM, Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Now, how about the unreliability issue with the 
temperature sensing element of the Raymarine 
transducer? Is it a simple RTD and of what 
value, so I can haywire something in stead of it?


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast, where it has dropped 
below freezing on some nights now!


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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

120.4 degrees, eh?  A few years ago during an offshore race, Touche's wind
instrument indicated a steady 99 knots with gusts to 274 knots.  After a
power off/on cycle it indicated a more reasonable low 20's.  :)

Dennis C

On Mon, Nov 30, 2015 at 9:28 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Fred,
>
> Thanks for the link. I think maybe I should get one of my Instrument
> mechanics to see if they can come up with a value for the thermistor.
> Otherwise I might just grab a few and do it on a trial basis.
>
> When it first started failing, years ago, I mentioned it at a C&C
> rendezvous and got a "don't worry, it happens all the time" kinda response.
> I would like to credit Jim but now I can't be sure. And when the one on 
> *Amazing
> Grace *went too I came to believe it is common. Or maybe the Strait of
> Georgia is responding well to the promise of global warming and really is
> 120.4 degrees :)
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
> B.C. South Coast
>
>
> At 06:44 PM 29/11/2015, you wrote:
>
> This is the first one I’ve heard of that failed.  Usually they’re very
> reliable.  It’s just a thermistor potted in the transducer housing:
>
> http://www.airmartechnology.com/uploads/wiringdiagrams/91_636.pdf
>
> No info on the value of the thermistor...
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Nov 27, 2015, at 6:47 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Now, how about the unreliability issue with the temperature sensing
> element of the Raymarine transducer? Is it a simple RTD and of what value,
> so I can haywire something in stead of it?
>
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> B.C. South Coast, where it has dropped below freezing on some
> nights now!
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Club Team scoring with PHRF

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Charlie, 

3 hrs seems perfect for a distance race where you race one direction on 
Saturday, have a party or a raft-up and race back Sunday. 3 hrs is a fair 
commute to the start or back home, if sailors can only do one race. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 C&C 34R 
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

- Original Message -

From: "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "cenelson"  
Sent: Monday, November 30, 2015 5:36:58 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Club Team scoring with PHRF 

Hey listers; 

We have two reasonably active PHRF fleets on the Neuse River in NC that are 
about 3 hours apart by boat. 

In an effort to get boats to move from one venue to another (increasing the 
fleet size in each open but club run regatta), we have been using 
a simple PHRF scoring scheme that has its problems so I thought I'd check the 
list to see if any of you have 
solved it differently and perhaps with less drama than we have. 

Each club run regatta has spin and non-spin classes with PHRF splits at about 
100 and 200, sometimes with divisions within 
the classes. Clubs need 5 boats entered in total to qualify and then the top 5 
boat's scores from each club, whether 
spin or non-spin, are averaged to determine the winning club. We really don't 
have enough boats racing 
to routinely fix the PHRF splits for a season as the CBYRA apparently does. We 
have used both the default US Sailing scoring 
system as well as the High Point Average at various times--we are familiar with 
them all. 

This has more or less worked unless the OA decides to extend the PHRF ratings 
to get enough boats in a division 
to have better competition. Since our inter-club racing committee doesn't run 
these regattas (the clubs do), 
our committee cannot require the clubs to use fixed PHRF splits or otherwise do 
anything except recommend the splits, 
fix the definition of cruising boats, etc. 

Our clubs do not really have an option to buy and race the same boats for a 
team score as some (GYA, etc.) do. We are all 
PHRF racers with cruisers or racer/cruisers with a few smaller but different 
boats (1 Viper, 1 J-80, 1 Rocket-22, 2 Etchells and sometimes 
several San Juan 21s) all racing PHRF. 

I doubt that there is an ideal solution but maybe the listers might be able to 
help me decide between "...the lesser of two "weevils..."' 
on how to come up with a team score recognizing our limitations. 

Our committee does not want to run the regattas, just score them (or team 
purposes) with minimum drama about the PHRF splits. 

TIA, 

Charlie Nelson 
Water Phantom 
C&C 36 XL/kcb 


cenel...@aol.com 

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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers now instrument errors

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I've got a friend with a really fast boat; does 2kts in the slip.RonWild 
CheriC&C 30-1STL
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