Re: Stus-List Bad Build

[svpegasus38]

Lol. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Russ & Melody via CnC-ListDate: Fri, Dec 4, 
2015 18:43To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Russ & Melody;Subject:Re: Stus-List Bad 
Build

The article info indicates the keel attachment is okay. 

But hooee, that keel stub looks like the integrity is about as good as a : politician, Catholic priest, lawyer, J-boatPHRF rating 

Cheers,Russ
Sweet35 mk-1
B.C. SouthCoast

At 06:16 PM 04/12/2015, you wrote:

A while back there was aconversation between me and another c&c owner about 
pretty dismalkeel attachments.
Ahmet
On Dec 4, 2015 6:02 PM, "Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List"wrote:
Interesting read about what appears to be some shoddy constructionmethods.

Thanks to C& C for doing things right.

http://www.sailfeed.com/2015/12/another-major-keel-failure-what-really-happened-to-polina-star-iii/?utm_source=sail-enewsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=textlink&utm_campaign=enewsletter


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


>

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Re: Stus-List Bad Build

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

There is a thread running on Cruisers Forum (referenced in the article) and
another on Sailing Anarchy (
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=167311). The SA thread
has the Russian journalist who wrote the above-mentioned article and the
captain of the Pollina Star both commenting. The captain was not impressed
with the boat...





Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 4 December 2015 at 20:59, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is much more in the original (Russian) article. Worth as read, if
> you could do that. The Russian article is the original source of most pf
> the information (sans some of the opinions).
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Kevin
> Driscoll via CnC-List
> *Sent:* December 4, 2015 6:08 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Driscoll ; Tom Buscaglia <
> t...@sv-alera.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bad Build
>
>
>
> Obviously something went very wrong with Polina Star, but I did find
> Charles Doane's take on it more than speculative and a bit of irresponsible
> yachting journalism IMO. I will be interested to see the findings of fact
> when they are available.
>
>
>
> Glad we have C&C's. They can do no wrong ;)
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Stus-List Where to locate water maker on Landfall 38?

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I am considering adding a water maker on my Landfall 38 but I don't want to 
sacrifice one of my water tanks for the space.  I am considering putting it 
under the v-berth on the port side and just feeding the forward (40-gallon) 
tank but I don't really want disturb the v-berth for regular maintenance.

I am strongly considering a Spectra because of the low energy per gallon of 
fresh water produced and the world-wide dealership network.

Bob 

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

> On Dec 2, 2015, at 4:27 PM, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Fred, Thanks, and please do check. I'll ask around here as well. If they're 
> $100 or more, I'll likely delay another year.
> 
> Dan
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[allen via CnC-List]

Gary,

After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked with 
some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of weeks, 
then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I can see a 
little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin 
fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe 
black would be good.

Allen


From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


Allen, 
 If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
Gary


~~~_/)~~




On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List  
wrote:

  What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

  Allen Miles
  s/v Septima
  C&C 30-2
  Hampton, VA


  From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
  Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Andrew Burton 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


  I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, just 
a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.


  Andy

  C&C 40

  Peregrine



  On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.  



I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one 
out there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal 
with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)



For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, 
I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures are 
now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater than 60 
degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:



#1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too 
hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a 
different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing 
the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a 
sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was 
rip up the gel coat.



#2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood 
(or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces and 
you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.



#3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit 
set to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the 
Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a smaller 
footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to cut through 
the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.   Don’t cut all the 
way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window.  Otherwise, the 
window will sink under the weight of the router and you will cut into the gel 
coat.  You can break out the tabs later.



#4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with low 
density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all my gel 
coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the windows are 
out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy. 



#5.   I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router bit 
(sometimes called a Formica trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in half 
lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or template).  I ran 
the tape at right angles to insure that they wouldn’t slide in either direction 
with respect to each other.  It does a very nice job and is quite easy.  I then 
used a 1/8” round off router bit on the outside edge of the new window for 
cosmetic reasons and a 45 degree chamfer bit on the inside edge to make room 
for the Dow Corning 795 silicone.



#6.  I installed the 3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked around 
where I wanted the window to go.  This would help me locate the window and 
provide the masking for the Dow Corning 795 silicone to follow.  I also masked 
the edge of the new window for the sa

Re: Stus-List windows

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

Any recommendations for windows for a c&c 35 mk I. I'm located in toronto.‎ 
Thanks everyone.

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.
From: allen via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: allen
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)


Gary,

After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked with 
some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of weeks, 
then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I can see a 
little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin 
fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe 
black would be good.

Allen

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

Allen,
 If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
Gary

~~~_/)~~



Glen Eddie
Tel: 416-777-5357
Fax: 1-888-812-2557

Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.



On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

Allen Miles
s/v Septima
C&C 30-2
Hampton, VA

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, just a 
set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.

Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.

I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one out 
there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal with 
cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, I 
have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures are 
now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater than 60 
degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:

#1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too hard 
and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a different 
expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing the stuff 
is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a sharp 
blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was rip up 
the gel coat.

#2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood (or 
other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces and you 
will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.

#3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router bit set 
to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness of the 
Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a smaller 
footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to cut through 
the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.   Don’t cut all the 
way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the window.  Otherwise, the 
window will sink under the weight of the router and you will cut into the gel 
coat.  You can break out the tabs later.

#4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with low 
density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all my gel 
coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the windows are 
out 

Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Sorry, I know this has probably been answered before, but I need to re-glue
hatch gasket.  Is Epoxy  glue ok?

Joel


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Allen,
 With the grey Plexiglas, the black looks very nice.  I can't imagine
using white, personally.  There are two shades of gray (2064 and 2074).  I
chose the darker color (2074) and really like it.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 2:57 PM, allen via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Gary,
>
> After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked
> with some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of
> weeks, then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I
> can see a little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the
> cabin fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent,
> but maybe black would be good.
>
> Allen
>
> *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Gary Russell 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>
> Allen,
>  If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming
>> undone.
>>
>> Allen Miles
>> s/v Septima
>> C&C 30-2
>> Hampton, VA
>>
>> *From:* Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Andrew Burton 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>
>> I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually,
>> just a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.
>>
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple
>>> installation.  However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard
>>> and tenacious, yet the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when
>>> redoing windows again it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good
>>> one out there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and
>>> deal with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
>>> Russell via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
>>> *To:* C&C List
>>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High
>>> Maintenance, I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated
>>> below.  I have successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and
>>> replaced the acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has
>>> been very successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the
>>> temperatures are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature
>>> of greater than 60 degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is
>>> too hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a
>>> different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.
>>> Removing the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat
>>> underneath.  I tried a sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic
>>> and all I managed to do was rip up the gel coat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin
>>> plywood (or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in
>>> pieces and you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #3.  I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router
>>> bit set to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness
>>> of the Plexus.  I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a
>>> smaller footprint and was easier to handle.  I free-handed the router to
>>> cut through the acrylic and into the Plexus.  It’s risky but effective.
>>> Don’t cut all the way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the
>>> window.  Otherwise, the window will sink under the weight of the router and
>>> you will cut into the gel coat.  You can break out the tabs later.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #4.  Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with
>>> low density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat.  Fortunately, all
>>> my gel coat damage was limited to the area under the windows.  Once the
>>> windows are out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #5.   I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router
>>> bit (sometimes called a Formica trimmer).  I used masking tape folded in
>>> half lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or
>>> template).  I ran the tape at right angles to insure that t

Re: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

I would use contact cement or weather-strip adhesive.  3M makes a product for 
weather-stripping that works very well.  Contact cement is probably easier to 
get hold of though.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 16:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

 

Sorry, I know this has probably been answered before, but I need to re-glue 
hatch gasket.  Is Epoxy  glue ok?  

 

Joel



-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List glue for hatch gasket

[svpegasus38]

3M weather strip adhesive found at good auto part stores. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List Date: Sat, Dec 5, 
2015 13:36To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Joel Aronson;Subject:Stus-List glue for 
hatch gasket
Sorry, I know this has probably been answered before, but I need to re-glue 
hatch gasket.  Is Epoxy  glue ok?  
Joel

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List windows

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Glen,

 

Your 35 MK1 should have large aluminum framed windows and it’s very easy to 
replace the panes.

Remove the rubber gasket locking the Plexiglas pane into the frame and pop the 
window out from the inside.

Take the panes to a glass shop and have new panes made of your desired material 
(plexi or lexan, clear or tinted).

Go to Holland Marine and get a roll of butyl tape and the correct size rubber 
gasket from them (bring a piece of the old gasket with you).

Clean up the frames and follow the directions you get from Holland Marine.

I’ve done this on two boats and it’s very easy to carry out.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C&C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Glen Eddie 
via CnC-List
Sent: December-05-15 16:06
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Glen Eddie
Subject: Re: Stus-List windows

 

Any recommendations for windows for a c&c 35 mk I. I'm located in toronto.‎ 
Thanks everyone.

 

Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.


From: allen via CnC-List

Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:58 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: allen

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

Gary,

 

After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked with 
some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of weeks, 
then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I can see a 
little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin 
fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe 
black would be good.

 

Allen

 

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List   

Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM

To: C  &C List 

Cc: Gary Russell   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

Allen, 

 If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.

Gary




~~~_/)~~

 

 


Glen Eddie


Tel: 416-777-5357


Fax: 1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.



On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List  
wrote:

What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
undone.

 

Allen Miles

s/v Septima

C&C 30-2

Hampton, VA

 

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List   

Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Andrew Burton   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, just a 
set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.

Andy

C&C 40

Peregrine

 

On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, yet 
the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows again 
it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.  

 

I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one out 
there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal with 
cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)

 

For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, I 
have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures are 
now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater than 60 
degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:

 

#1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too hard 
and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a different 
expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  Removing the stuff 
is impossible without destroying the gel coat underneath.  I tried a sharp 
blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic and all I managed to do was rip up 
the gel coat.

 

#2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood (or 
other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces and you 
will have nothing as

Re: Stus-List windows

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If the spline is OK, get some smoke tinted Lexan and use the old ones as a 
pattern to cut the new ones.  Use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade.  Sand the 
edges a bit. 

Get some D shape EPDM foam from the weatherstripping section at any big box 
building supply store. Brand names are Frost King or MD Building Products. 

Frost King product number is V25BK.  Just happen to be on boat tonight and had 
some in the dock box. 

Clean the frame. Peel backing from foam and stick in place.  Lube the spline 
with soapy water. Starting with the bottom middle shove the spline back with a 
wooden dowel. Done. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 5, 2015, at 2:06 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Any recommendations for windows for a c&c 35 mk I. I'm located in toronto.‎ 
> Thanks everyone.
> 
> Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.
> From: allen via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:58 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: allen
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
> 
> Gary,
>  
> After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked 
> with some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of 
> weeks, then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I can 
> see a little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the cabin 
> fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent, but maybe 
> black would be good.
>  
> Allen
> 
> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Gary Russell
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
> 
> Allen,
>  If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> 
> Glen Eddie
> Tel: 416-777-5357
> Fax: 1-888-812-2557
> Torkin Manes LLP
> Barristers & Solicitors
> 
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
> message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming 
>> undone.
>>  
>> Allen Miles
>> s/v Septima
>> C&C 30-2
>> Hampton, VA
>> 
>> From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Andrew Burton
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>> 
>> I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually, just 
>> a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.
>> 
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>> 
>>> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple installation.  
>>> However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard and tenacious, 
>>> yet the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when redoing windows 
>>> again it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil. 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good one 
>>> out there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and deal 
>>> with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
>>> Russell via CnC-List
>>> Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
>>> To: C&C List
>>> Cc: Gary Russell
>>> Subject: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High Maintenance, 
>>> I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated below.  I have 
>>> successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and replaced the 
>>> acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has been very 
>>> successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the temperatures 
>>> are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature of greater 
>>> than 60 degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> #1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is too 
>>> hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a 
>>> different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.  
>>> Removing the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat 
>>> underneath.  I tried a sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic 
>>> and all I managed to do was rip up the gel coat.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> #2.  Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin plywood 
>>> (or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in pieces 
>>> and you will have nothing as a reference for ma

Re: Stus-List windows

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I would suggest something transparent.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 5 December 2015 at 19:54, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> If the spline is OK, get some smoke tinted Lexan and use the old ones as a
> pattern to cut the new ones.  Use a jig saw with a fine tooth blade.  Sand
> the edges a bit.
>
> Get some D shape EPDM foam from the weatherstripping section at any big
> box building supply store. Brand names are Frost King or MD Building
> Products.
>
> Frost King product number is V25BK.  Just happen to be on boat tonight and
> had some in the dock box.
>
> Clean the frame. Peel backing from foam and stick in place.  Lube the
> spline with soapy water. Starting with the bottom middle shove the spline
> back with a wooden dowel. Done.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 5, 2015, at 2:06 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Any recommendations for windows for a c&c 35 mk I. I'm located in
> toronto.‎ Thanks everyone.
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry 10 smartphone on the Rogers network.
> *From: *allen via CnC-List
> *Sent: *Saturday, December 5, 2015 2:58 PM
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Reply To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *allen
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>
> Gary,
>
> After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked
> with some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of
> weeks, then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window.  Now I
> can see a little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the
> cabin fiberglass.  I was looking for something white and more persistent,
> but maybe black would be good.
>
> Allen
>
> *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
> *To:* C&C List 
> *Cc:* Gary Russell 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>
> Allen,
>  If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
>
> Glen Eddie Tel: 416-777-5357 Fax: 1-888-812-2557
> Torkin Manes LLP
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
> message. Thank you.
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> What did you use for caulking to protect the bond?  My caulking is coming
>> undone.
>>
>> Allen Miles
>> s/v Septima
>> C&C 30-2
>> Hampton, VA
>>
>> *From:* Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Andrew Burton 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>
>> I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually,
>> just a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.
>>
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple
>>> installation.  However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard
>>> and tenacious, yet the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when
>>> redoing windows again it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good
>>> one out there.  It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and
>>> deal with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
>>> Russell via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
>>> *To:* C&C List
>>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High
>>> Maintenance, I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated
>>> below.  I have successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and
>>> replaced the acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has
>>> been very successful.  I have terminated my project at this point as the
>>> temperatures are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature
>>> of greater than 60 degrees F for application.  Here are my observations:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #1.  Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat.  It is
>>> too hard and tenacious a bond.  Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a
>>> different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.
>>> Removing the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat
>>> underneath.  I tried a sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic
>>> and all I managed to do was rip up the gel coat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #2.  Before removing the windows, make a templa