Hi Allen,
With the grey Plexiglas, the black looks very nice. I can't imagine
using white, personally. There are two shades of gray (2064 and 2074). I
chose the darker color (2074) and really like it.
Gary
~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
On Sat, Dec 5, 2015 at 2:57 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
> Gary,
>
> After my acrylic windows were bonded to the cabin sides, they were caulked
> with some kind of white material that looked great for the first couple of
> weeks, then started to bleed down the acrylic face of the window. Now I
> can see a little gully between the horizontal side of the acrylic and the
> cabin fiberglass. I was looking for something white and more persistent,
> but maybe black would be good.
>
> Allen
>
> *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Sent:* Thursday, December 03, 2015 7:51 PM
> *To:* C&C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* Gary Russell <captnga...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>
> Allen,
> If I understand your question, I used Dow Corning 795 Black silicone.
> Gary
>
> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 7:46 PM, allen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> What did you use for caulking to protect the bond? My caulking is coming
>> undone.
>>
>> Allen Miles
>> s/v Septima
>> C&C 30-2
>> Hampton, VA
>>
>> *From:* Andrew Burton via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> *Sent:* Thursday, December 03, 2015 9:26 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Andrew Burton <a.burton.sai...@gmail.com>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>
>> I have templates for the C&C 40 windows if anyone needs them. Actually,
>> just a set of old windows the PO thoughtfully passed on to me.
>>
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 9:17 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Just an observation; The VHB tape seems like a more simple
>>> installation. However, I’m curious if Plexus is evil because it’s too hard
>>> and tenacious, yet the VHB joined parts won’t come apart, in 5-10 yrs when
>>> redoing windows again it sounds like we’ll be calling VHB evil.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I don’t have a better solution, and question if there’s really a good
>>> one out there. It sounds like we need to keep templates of the lenses and
>>> deal with cutting and filling around the frame when the connection fails.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
>>> Russell via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 02, 2015 7:47 PM
>>> *To:* C&C List
>>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Bonded Windows (continued)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> For those who were following my post on bonded windows on High
>>> Maintenance, I have an update and many thoughts on the project enumerated
>>> below. I have successfully installed two windows on the starboard side and
>>> replaced the acrylic on all the hatches and can say that the project has
>>> been very successful. I have terminated my project at this point as the
>>> temperatures are now too low for the VHB tape which requires a temperature
>>> of greater than 60 degrees F for application. Here are my observations:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #1. Plexus is evil stuff and should not be allowed on a boat. It is
>>> too hard and tenacious a bond. Because fiberglass and acrylic have such a
>>> different expansion coefficient, fracture of the acrylic is assured.
>>> Removing the stuff is impossible without destroying the gel coat
>>> underneath. I tried a sharp blade between the fiberglass and the acrylic
>>> and all I managed to do was rip up the gel coat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #2. Before removing the windows, make a template out of some thin
>>> plywood (or other material) because the window will (no doubt) come out in
>>> pieces and you will have nothing as a reference for making the new windows.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #3. I finally was successful removing the acrylic with a 5/8” router
>>> bit set to a depth equal to the thickness of the acrylic plus the thickness
>>> of the Plexus. I actually used a Roto-Zip instead of a router as it had a
>>> smaller footprint and was easier to handle. I free-handed the router to
>>> cut through the acrylic and into the Plexus. It’s risky but effective.
>>> Don’t cut all the way around the perimeter, but leave tabs to support the
>>> window. Otherwise, the window will sink under the weight of the router and
>>> you will cut into the gel coat. You can break out the tabs later.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #4. Once the windows were out, I used West System epoxy thickened with
>>> low density filler to repair any damage to the gel coat. Fortunately, all
>>> my gel coat damage was limited to the area under the windows. Once the
>>> windows are out and the damage is repaired, the rest is fun and easy.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #5. I cut the new window out of 3/8” Plexiglas using a pattern router
>>> bit (sometimes called a Formica trimmer). I used masking tape folded in
>>> half lengthwise to stick the new Plexiglas to the old window (or
>>> template). I ran the tape at right angles to insure that they wouldn’t
>>> slide in either direction with respect to each other. It does a very nice
>>> job and is quite easy. I then used a 1/8” round off router bit on the
>>> outside edge of the new window for cosmetic reasons and a 45 degree chamfer
>>> bit on the inside edge to make room for the Dow Corning 795 silicone.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #6. I installed the 3M VHB 4991 tape on the coach roof and masked
>>> around where I wanted the window to go. This would help me locate the
>>> window and provide the masking for the Dow Corning 795 silicone to follow.
>>> I also masked the edge of the new window for the same reason.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #7. Now cones the tricky part. You only get one shot with the VHB
>>> tape, because once it is down, it is not coming up. I tried adhering two
>>> small pieces of acrylic to each other with about two square inches of VHB
>>> tape, and I can assure you, you won’t pull them apart. VHB is amazing
>>> stuff. As a guide, I mounted two small wooden blocks to the masking take
>>> below the window with a small piece of VHB tape. By attaching it to the
>>> masking tape, I was sure I could get it back off. Actually, VHB doesn’t
>>> stick very well to masking tape anyway. I also stuck a small wooden block
>>> to the masking tape at one end of the window as well. This allowed me to
>>> set the window on the two bottom block and then slide it over to the end
>>> block before pushing the window into place. By all means, make several
>>> trial runs with the film still on the VHB tape before removing the film.
>>> Once the film is off you are committed. I pushed the window in place and
>>> it looked perfect. Then it is simply a matter of squirting the Dow Corning
>>> stuff into the gap and smoothing it out with a finger. As soon as the
>>> silicon is smoothed out, you can remove the masking tape and pour yourself
>>> a stiff one, while you admire the fine job you have done.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #8. There was concern expressed that the VHB tape would be visible
>>> through the window, and it was suggested that the window should be painted
>>> with Krylon Fusion Black. Actually, the VHB tape is the same color as the
>>> Plexus which is not visible, so the VHB won’t be visible either. No paint
>>> is necessary. I used the darker shade of grey Plexiglas and can say that
>>> it look spectacular. The darker shade really “pops” and the contrast is
>>> particularly attractive (in my humble opinion). The darker color makes it
>>> difficult to see into the boat, but has a minimal effect when looking out.
>>> The VHB is not visible at all.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #9. There was also concern expressed concerning whether the curvature
>>> of the coach roof would cause a flexing force to peel the VHB tape. I can
>>> say that the radius of curvature is very large (>20 feet) and the forces
>>> are thus very small. 3/8” acrylic over those lengths is quite flexible. I
>>> see no problem at all.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #9. I have posted some pictures on Google Drive and I think you can
>>> view them at:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwQRSP2fYIFmemxYOGlVcHNUNVk&usp=sharing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I am new to posting pictures, so if you have trouble seeing them, email
>>> me and we can get it fixed. I will add more pictures as they become
>>> available.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #10. Needless to say, I am thrilled with the outcome so far. I have
>>> also re-glazed the hatches using the Boatworks video and they came out
>>> spectacular as well. The only difference I made from their recommendations
>>> is that I bedded the acrylic in butyl tape instead of the Dow Corning 795
>>> because it was much easier to get a uniform bead and that was the way it
>>> was done from the factory. I still filled the gap around the windows with
>>> the Dow Corning 795. Boatworks is right, the Dow Corning 795 is nice stuff.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> #11. If I have left anything out or you have any questions about this
>>> post, just give me a shout.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>>
>>> ’90 C&C 37 Plus
>>>
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>> ~~~~~~~_/)~~~~~~
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett Ave
>> Newport, RI
>> USA 02840
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> phone +401 965 5260
>>
>> ------------------------------
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