Stus-List Offshore passages as crew - where to start?
My recent trip to Tofino and the west coast of Vancouver Island has convinced me I want to do more offshore passages, and eventually cross oceans. I have a fair amount of experience sailing around Puget Sound/San Juans/etc. and feel like I’d be fairly useful addition to most crews. If you had very little offshore sailing experience and had set a goal of sailing to or from Hawaii within the next 1-3 years (crewing on somebody else’s boat), how would you go about it? -- Andrew Means S.V. Safari - 1977 C&C 34 Mk I Seattle, WA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
What you will see in a die-penatrent of a full blown crack is a solid line,
as obossed to the corrision pitting seen in this case. It will be very obvious.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.
-- Original message--From: S Thomas via CnC-List Date: Tue, Jul 12,
2016 22:45To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: S Thomas;Subject:Re: Stus-List Forestay
Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
P { MARGIN-TOP: 0px; MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0px}I would like to know how to tell
the difference between this, if it is not a problem, and the dreaded crevice
crack corrosion that we are so constantly being warned about. Steve
ThomasC&C27 MKIIIPort Stanley, ON - Original Message - From:
Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Aaron Rouhi
Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 19:38 Subject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting
/ Chainplate - Update
So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a
surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how
it looked before:
http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg
I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied:
http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg
Here is after developer is applied:
http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg
I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the
blemishes on the surface...
Any thoughts?
Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
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are greatly appreciated!
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are
greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
I would like to know how to tell the difference between this, if it is not a problem, and the dreaded crevice crack corrosion that we are so constantly being warned about. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON - Original Message - From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Aaron Rouhi Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 19:38 Subject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked before: http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied: http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg Here is after developer is applied: http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on the surface... Any thoughts? Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD -- ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
It looks better, certainly less menacing than before, but I would work it to a mirror shine. The crack can be hard to see with the scratch lines but very easy to see when it is mirror smooth. At least get a swirl pattern or lines that run perpendicular to the "crack". You're so much closer to a satisfactory answer it only makes sense to get it that little extra bit. You are wet sanding right? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jul 12, 2016 7:40 PM, "Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List" wrote: > So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a > surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like > how it looked before: > > > http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg > > > I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied: > > > http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg > > > Here is after developer is applied: > > > http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg > > > I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the > blemishes on the surface... > > > Any thoughts? > > > Cheers, > Aaron R. > Admiral Maggie, > 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 > Annapolis, MD > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
I think it is fine. You just need to scrub a little acid on that area to remove the surface iron Bill Coleman Original message From: Sam Salter via CnC-List Date: 7/12/16 21:16 (GMT-05:00) To: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List , cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Sam Salter Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update Go sailing! sam :-) From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 5:40 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Aaron RouhiSubject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked before: http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied: http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg Here is after developer is applied: http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on the surface... Any thoughts? Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump
Like others have said, it's probably the flapper valves. However, it could be the sealing surfaces have corroded if it's an alloy pump. If that's the case, you're in it for a new pump. You probably won't know until you take it apart. If it's an alloy pump, coat the sealing surfaces with TefGel before re-assembly. Dennis C. On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 7:33 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working. I believe it's > original. > > My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to > get the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump > and ensuring there is suction there. Then replace the hose and ensure a > good seal. > > Any words of wisdom from the group on this? > > Thanks, > Jeremy > > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump
I had the same problem in my 29-1. I removed the Waler unit and replaced the flapper valves. Works like a charm now Ian Matthew "Siento el Viento". C&C 29-1 San Franciso Bay -- Ian Matthew "Siento el Viento" C&C 29 mk 1 San Francisco Bay Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
Like Sam says. no indication of cracking, very slight porosity in areas not polished enough cheers, Russ At 06:16 PM 12/07/2016, you wrote: Go sailing! sam :-) So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked before: I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on the surface... Any thoughts? Cheers, Aaron R. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
Go sailing! sam :-)From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 5:40 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comReply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Aaron RouhiSubject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked before: http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied: http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg Here is after developer is applied: http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on the surface... Any thoughts? Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing
http://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2016/07/12/summer-tradition-still-going-strong/?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016&utm_content=Scuttlebutt%204623%20-%20July%2013%202016+CID_9b7e47dad615547db1dfe51d875d17cd&utm_source=Email%20Newsletter&utm_term=Summer%20Tradition%20Still%20Going%20Strong Don Don Harben Viking 34 Life www.ncyc.ca___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump
Jeremy, If it’s a Whale Gusher pump there are two flapper valves in the pump that can get stuck open if something gets caught in them. The result is no suction or exhaust. There could also be a hole in the diaphragm which would cause the same symptoms. I would remove the pump and open it up before randomly changing hoses. Rick Taillieu Nemesis '75 C&C 25 #371 Shearwater Yacht Club Halifax, NS. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List Sent: July-12-16 21:33 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeremy Ralph Subject: Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working. I believe it's original. My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to get the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump and ensuring there is suction there. Then replace the hose and ensure a good seal. Any words of wisdom from the group on this? Thanks, Jeremy _ No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4627/12605 - Release Date: 07/12/16 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List C&C34-1 Manual Bilge Pump
The manual bilge pump on my 1978 34-1 isn't working. I believe it's original. My thinking is there must be a leak somewhere and I need to find that to get the suction working. I'm thinking of taking off the hose at the pump and ensuring there is suction there. Then replace the hose and ensure a good seal. Any words of wisdom from the group on this? Thanks, Jeremy ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate - Update
So I polished the rusty area on my forestay fitting and it seems like a surface corrosion as suggested. There are some blemishes but nothing like how it looked before: http://i.imgur.com/NoW6PtN.jpg I also performed a dye test. Here is a picture with dye applied: http://i.imgur.com/RUH6Iir.jpg Here is after developer is applied: http://i.imgur.com/34PUsvH.jpg I barely see a dotted line but it seems to be consistent with the blemishes on the surface... Any thoughts? Cheers, Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Landfall 35 Bow Assembly - now cooling
Thanks again Chuck - I admire your effort in doing the varnish on the toe rail. I agree that there only seems to be the one mechanical connection for the stem piece, and that is what concerns me - am I missing something? My boat is the couples cruiser configuration. Over the weekend, with help I was able to remove the main section of the cabin sole for refinishing - 7" long. Previous owner installed Nova Cool to replace the original refrigeration. Can't set it above 1.5 for fear of freezing everything. Compressor is located under the sink and a louvered vent was installed in the bulkhead behind the sink to allow for air flow. There are two plates in the box. James LeMesurier Landfall 35- SISU -- Message: 5 Date: Tue, 12 Jul 2016 11:55:50 -0400 From: Charles Gilchrest To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List bow stem fitting on LF 35 Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" James, I went the Epiphanes varnish route with my toe rails and although it was time consuming to apply 5 coats to the length of the boat x 2, sanding in between coats, it is a highlight of the boat and I get plenty of compliments. When I looked at the stem fitting on Half Magic last night, it appeared that the large 4-5 countersunk phillips head bolts holding the plate in place must either thread into nuts fiberglassed into the bow or are simply lag bolts in disguise. The bolts are well forward of the anchor locker and there do not appear to be any visible nuts directly below the stem fitting that could be accessed from beneath the plate. Plus there?s evidence of some type of mastic (sealant, goop, schmear-wurst, etc.) that serves to bond and seal the fitting to the deck hull joint. Mine too appears to be painted rather than anodized or powder coated but is gray in color. There is a bit of chafe through the paint caused by aggressive chafe protection on mooring lines. Half Magic is a Rhode Island built boat, so I don?t even have the luxury of asking the designer how it may have been put together. So is your boat a ?couple?s cruiser? or does it have the traditional interior layout? And what, if any, refrigeration unit do you have on your boat? Mine has the Adler Barbour Cold machine that was installed at the factory and it has a different definition of cold than I do..but that?s for another thread.. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA > On Jul 12, 2016, at 11:24 AM, JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List > wrote: > > Thanks Chuck - > > Nice to meet another LF 35 owner. I have the only one at our club, but there > are two LF 38s and approx 20 other C&Cs - some in the hands of the original > owners. The teak toe rails are not too big a job if they are kept up. I use > Cetol Natural Teak on them. > > I take your point about the critical nature of the bow fitting - that's why I > sought the wisdom of the list before tackling the project. > > I was able to strip the brown paint off the stanchion bases using an > environmentally friendly stripper, a triangle scraper and used a wire brush > attachment to my cordless drill to clean them, then used aluminum polish. > They actually look pretty decent. I may try the same approach to the bow > fitting if I decide to leave it in situ. > > > > --- -- next part -- An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160712/12bed070/attachment.html> -- Subject: Digest Footer ___ CnC-List mailing list CnC-List@cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com -- End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 49 * ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List bow stem fitting on LF 35
James, I went the Epiphanes varnish route with my toe rails and although it was time consuming to apply 5 coats to the length of the boat x 2, sanding in between coats, it is a highlight of the boat and I get plenty of compliments. When I looked at the stem fitting on Half Magic last night, it appeared that the large 4-5 countersunk phillips head bolts holding the plate in place must either thread into nuts fiberglassed into the bow or are simply lag bolts in disguise. The bolts are well forward of the anchor locker and there do not appear to be any visible nuts directly below the stem fitting that could be accessed from beneath the plate. Plus there’s evidence of some type of mastic (sealant, goop, schmear-wurst, etc.) that serves to bond and seal the fitting to the deck hull joint. Mine too appears to be painted rather than anodized or powder coated but is gray in color. There is a bit of chafe through the paint caused by aggressive chafe protection on mooring lines. Half Magic is a Rhode Island built boat, so I don’t even have the luxury of asking the designer how it may have been put together. So is your boat a “couple’s cruiser” or does it have the traditional interior layout? And what, if any, refrigeration unit do you have on your boat? Mine has the Adler Barbour Cold machine that was installed at the factory and it has a different definition of cold than I do..but that’s for another thread.. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 Padanaram, MA > On Jul 12, 2016, at 11:24 AM, JAMES LEMESURIER via CnC-List > wrote: > > Thanks Chuck - > > Nice to meet another LF 35 owner. I have the only one at our club, but there > are two LF 38s and approx 20 other C&Cs - some in the hands of the original > owners. The teak toe rails are not too big a job if they are kept up. I use > Cetol Natural Teak on them. > > I take your point about the critical nature of the bow fitting - that's why I > sought the wisdom of the list before tackling the project. > > I was able to strip the brown paint off the stanchion bases using an > environmentally friendly stripper, a triangle scraper and used a wire brush > attachment to my cordless drill to clean them, then used aluminum polish. > They actually look pretty decent. I may try the same approach to the bow > fitting if I decide to leave it in situ. > > > > --- ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 126, Issue 48
Thanks Chuck - Nice to meet another LF 35 owner. I have the only one at our club, but there are two LF 38s and approx 20 other C&Cs - some in the hands of the original owners. The teak toe rails are not too big a job if they are kept up. I use Cetol Natural Teak on them. I take your point about the critical nature of the bow fitting - that's why I sought the wisdom of the list before tackling the project. I was able to strip the brown paint off the stanchion bases using an environmentally friendly stripper, a triangle scraper and used a wire brush attachment to my cordless drill to clean them, then used aluminum polish. They actually look pretty decent. I may try the same approach to the bow fitting if I decide to leave it in situ. -- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2016 17:34:45 -0400 From: "Chuck Gilchrest" To: Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 35 Bow Assembly Message-ID: <001801d1dbbc$0b7226a0$225673e0$@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" James (and Pete), Good to see another LF 35 owner on the list! The Landfall 35 has teak capped toe rails, so we get the joy of varnishing rather than paint, anodizing, or powdercoating. >From the looks of the sealant and robust hardware used to secure the bow >fitting on my LF 35, I would far prefer to sand, mask, and paint mine before >attempting to remove something as critical to keeping the mast up and the >water out.. even if I had to do it every other year. Taking an air chisel to >free up the bow fitting doesn?t sound appealing to me. I?m heading out to the boat tonight so I?ll take a peek at bolt access etc.. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 LF 35 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Where to run reefing line? 1988 C&C 30MKII.
fishing tape? Better yet, if you have access to those - a fishing rod (the fibreglass ones for fishing wires). Or a tent brace. Marek Dziedzic 1994 C270 “Legato” Ottawa, ON From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 08:07 To: C&C List Cc: Josh Muckley Subject: Re: Stus-List Where to run reefing line? 1988 C&C 30MKII. Boat hook worked for me. Push from one end then pull from the other. Other people have suggested using a blast of water from a hose. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jul 12, 2016 6:53 AM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" wrote: How do you run reef 2 down the boom? I have an empty clutch and sleeve at the end of the boom. Lorne Serpa C&C 30MKII 1988 Friendship, MD On Jul 9, 2016 7:06 AM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" wrote: Even better than a bowline is to use a timber hitch. See this article from Cruising World: http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/timber-hitch Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ +401 965-5260 On Jul 8, 2016, at 23:28, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: Yep, what Russ said. I would only add that the bowline should not be around the boom but rather around the standing part of the line that is going around the boom. This creates a bowline on a bite, a sort of slip know that will tighten down on the boom. This ensures that when you reef you'll get the clew as close as possible to the boom. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jul 8, 2016 7:31 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" wrote: The reefing line is run from the end of the boom to the clutch. However, it is not attached to the sail clue. I have a second reef eye in the sail, but no reefing line in the boom and an empty 2nd reefing line clutch. Where and how should the 1st reefing line attach? On my 15' Potter, it went from the boom, through the sail clue and back to a fixed spot on the boom. This gave a 2:1 purchase I think. Should the C&C be the same way? Or, does it simply attach to the reef clue with a shackel or similar? ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Where to run reefing line? 1988 C&C 30MKII.
Boat hook worked for me. Push from one end then pull from the other. Other people have suggested using a blast of water from a hose. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jul 12, 2016 6:53 AM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" wrote: > How do you run reef 2 down the boom? I have an empty clutch and sleeve at > the end of the boom. > > Lorne Serpa > C&C 30MKII 1988 > Friendship, MD > On Jul 9, 2016 7:06 AM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Even better than a bowline is to use a timber hitch. See this article >> from Cruising World: >> http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/timber-hitch >> >> Andrew Burton >> 61 W Narragansett >> Newport, RI >> USA02840 >> >> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ >> +401 965-5260 >> >> On Jul 8, 2016, at 23:28, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Yep, what Russ said. I would only add that the bowline should not be >> around the boom but rather around the standing part of the line that is >> going around the boom. This creates a bowline on a bite, a sort of slip >> know that will tighten down on the boom. This ensures that when you reef >> you'll get the clew as close as possible to the boom. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C&C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> On Jul 8, 2016 7:31 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" >> wrote: >> >>> The reefing line is run from the end of the boom to the clutch. >>> However, it is not attached to the sail clue. I have a second reef eye in >>> the sail, but no reefing line in the boom and an empty 2nd reefing line >>> clutch. >>> Where and how should the 1st reefing line attach? On my 15' Potter, it >>> went from the boom, through the sail clue and back to a fixed spot on the >>> boom. This gave a 2:1 purchase I think. Should the C&C be the same way? >>> Or, does it simply attach to the reef clue with a shackel or similar? >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >>> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >>> >>> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Where to run reefing line? 1988 C&C 30MKII.
How do you run reef 2 down the boom? I have an empty clutch and sleeve at the end of the boom. Lorne Serpa C&C 30MKII 1988 Friendship, MD On Jul 9, 2016 7:06 AM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" wrote: > Even better than a bowline is to use a timber hitch. See this article from > Cruising World: > http://www.cruisingworld.com/how/timber-hitch > > Andrew Burton > 61 W Narragansett > Newport, RI > USA02840 > > http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ > +401 965-5260 > > On Jul 8, 2016, at 23:28, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > > Yep, what Russ said. I would only add that the bowline should not be > around the boom but rather around the standing part of the line that is > going around the boom. This creates a bowline on a bite, a sort of slip > know that will tighten down on the boom. This ensures that when you reef > you'll get the clew as close as possible to the boom. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > On Jul 8, 2016 7:31 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List" > wrote: > >> The reefing line is run from the end of the boom to the clutch. >> However, it is not attached to the sail clue. I have a second reef eye in >> the sail, but no reefing line in the boom and an empty 2nd reefing line >> clutch. >> Where and how should the 1st reefing line attach? On my 15' Potter, it >> went from the boom, through the sail clue and back to a fixed spot on the >> boom. This gave a 2:1 purchase I think. Should the C&C be the same way? >> Or, does it simply attach to the reef clue with a shackel or similar? >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All >> Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate Replacement
Hi, If there are no cracks maybe you can passivate it so rust won't come
back.
SylvainC&C27MkIII
From: Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Cc: Aaron Rouhi
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate Replacement
#yiv9500424462 #yiv9500424462 -- P
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}#yiv9500424462 Thanks! We'll try it out and
report back...
Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540Annapolis, MD
From: CnC-List on behalf of Bill Coleman via
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 12:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate Replacement I agree
with Josh, that is just iron deposited from an unfortunate incident. Sand it
off, and go to a grit you are happy with, and soak it with something acidic to
remove surface iron, a poor man’s passivation. You can then polish it if you
like. I am sure it is fine. Bill ColemanC&C 39 Erie, PA From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 11, 2016 10:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Aaron Rouhi
Subject: Stus-List Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate Replacement I came came
back from a nice day of sailing in great winds and decent weather (usual for
Chesapeake in July) and was washing down the hull when I noticed that the
Forestay Stem Fitting / Chainplate is not looking so good. Here is a picture:
http://i.imgur.com/sjBAFoy.jpg Not sure how I missed this... Anyhow, It needs
to be replaced. The Stem Plate is bolted through and they are all accessible.
Has anyone does this before? Do you have a machine shop in Annapolis area that
you have used before (besides Kato)? Here is another picture of the setup:
http://i.imgur.com/OmUdstE.jpg Cheers,Aaron R.Admiral Maggie,1979 C&C 30 MK1
#540Annapolis, MD
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