Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MkII original location of batteries

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

A friend just told me that his two were under the quarter berth and he agreed 
that they didn't fit well.RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL (where it's currently 
freezing!)


  From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 To: CnC-List  
Cc: Lee Youngblood 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 10:23 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35 MkII original location of batteries
   
Hi John,
I don’t know where they were originally!  Likely there were only two 12volts 
back in the day maybe one in the hanging locker, and the other on the shelf in 
the engine compartment?  
I have 2) 6Volt Trogans under the sink, 2 more under the quarter-berth, and one 
nice Dyno (group 31) under the line locker, somewhat accessible from the 
guarter-berth. We are at the dock way too much, and no solar.  
Not a chance I could put batteries under that aft dinette seat - it’s filled 
with Kathleen’s food and prep stuff.
Hope that helps, Lee74 C&C 35-IISimplicity - SeattleNow it’s to cold to rain!


On Dec 13, 2016, at 3:43 PM, Bill Hoyne via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi John,I put 4 6v Trojans under the aft part of the dinette seat. It just 
fits. Works like a charm. The PO put some batteries in the quarter birth and 
they rotted out the bottom of the locker. What a mess! The starter battery is 
located in the stbd lazerette for now. 
Bill HoyneMithrandir’74 C&C35 MkIIin Victoria,BC
On Dec 13, 2016, at 4:05 PM, John Rand via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have a C&C 35 MkII, and can't figure out where the batteries were originally. 
Mine now has batteries under the quarter birth, and they don't really fit there 
(currently no battery boxes, straps, etc).
So where should they go?

Thanks,

John___

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

I usually just pull the thermostat in the Fall as part of winterizing -
means the antifreeze circulates right away.
Raw water cooled in freshwater, so its a good time to pull the leaves and
pine needles out of it anyway...I keep thinking i'll install a filter

Nate
Sarah Jean
1980 30-1
on the hard by the St. Croix River, WI

On Wed, Dec 14, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The pink RV style antifreeze does freeze solid though it is suppose to not
> expand enough
> to break copper pipes at least down to the rated temperature. It may break
> plastic before
> the rated temperature.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
> From: RANDY 
>
> Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let
> my A4 warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze
> through it. I did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before
> two gallons of pink anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was
> coming out the exhaust before shutting it down. Will find out next spring
> whether my winterizing was good enough, and will be more thorough next
> fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - we've already had a sub-zero night, and
> the lake is iced over enough to hold my stupid dogs up on the ice.
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Freeze Proofing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on that. I have  installed a bypass a couple of years ago. Works perfectly.

Marek



Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada's largest network.


 Original message 
From: Mitchell's via CnC-List 
Date: 12/14/16 11:34 (GMT-05:00)
To: CNC List 
Cc: Mitchell's 
Subject: Stus-List Freeze Proofing

Something not mentioned yet: the RV community uses a water heater bypass kit so 
you don't fill up your water heater with plumbing antifreeze. You simply drain 
it. Works great!

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
C&C 37+

Sent from my mobile device.

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My 1980 version has a 2QM15. Raw water cooled. The GM’s came later.

Gary

Waiting for the freeze in Maryland

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 10:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running.

 

Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C&C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Jeremy Ralph mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough. 

 

Thanks,

Jeremy 

Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > wrote:

Jeremy;

 

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

 

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

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Stus-List Freeze proofing and is 2QM20H original

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick - good to hear some AF will get in even if thermostat isn't
open.  My mechanic is the one who recommended the technique I've used.  He
told me to pour the AF in until I smelled it out of the exhaust after
warming up the engine.

I'm 100% positive the engine is a Y2QM20H although not positive it's
original, I just assume that.  The boat is a 78 C&C34-1.  I should check
the C&C manual which is on the boat to see if it mentions the engine.


On Dec 14, 2016, at 7:34 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited
amount of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to
the thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots
while the engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the
block so long as the engine is running.



Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C&C 29-1. It has
the original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the
QM was a replacement for the GM.
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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

The pink RV style antifreeze does freeze solid though it is suppose to not 
expand enough
to break copper pipes at least down to the rated temperature. It may break 
plastic before
the rated temperature.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1



From: RANDY  

Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let my A4 
warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze through it. I 
did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before two gallons of pink 
anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was coming out the exhaust 
before shutting it down. Will find out next spring whether my winterizing was 
good enough, and will be more thorough next fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - 
we've already had a sub-zero night, and the lake is iced over enough to hold my 
stupid dogs up on the ice.  
 
Cheers,  
Randy Stafford  
S/V Grenadine  
C&C 30-1 #7  
Ken Caryl, CO  
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Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

He is another variation - I have a fixed babystay.  My bowlines were always
getting hung up.  I made a 3 foot strop from 1/4 inch Dyneema, tied a
couple loops in the ends, luggage tagged one end to the sail and used a
soft shackle on the other.  Still had bowlines in the sheets, but they no
longer caught on the babystay as the sail slid across.
This winter I'll splice a couple strops and put one on each genny.  They
will look a lot better than the knotted ones!

Joel

On Wed, Dec 14, 2016 at 11:30 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Soft shackles are a great idea and like Chuck says, a good winter
> diversion project. What length shackle are you guys using? My instinct
> would be 8 inches from loop to knot but shorter is better, would 6 inches
> work? I will use 3/8 inch.
>
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> C&C 37+
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Freeze Proofing

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Something not mentioned yet: the RV community uses a water heater bypass kit so 
you don't fill up your water heater with plumbing antifreeze. You simply drain 
it. Works great! 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
C&C 37+

Sent from my mobile device. 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Soft shackles are a great idea and like Chuck says, a good winter diversion 
project. What length shackle are you guys using? My instinct would be 8 inches 
from loop to knot but shorter is better, would 6 inches work? I will use 3/8 
inch. 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
C&C 37+

Sent from my mobile device. 

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When my A4 was RWC, I put a hose on the exhaust and ran it into the same bucket 
the intake hose was in. I had about 3 gallons of antifreeze going around and 
around until it got nice and hot. Now I am FWC it is easier.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 10:57
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear.  I've been worried that I didn't let my 
A4 warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze through it. 
 I did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before two gallons of 
pink anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was coming out the exhaust 
before shutting it down.  Will find out next spring whether my winterizing was 
good enough, and will be more thorough next fall.  Meanwhile it's too late now 
- we've already had a sub-zero night, and the lake is iced over enough to hold 
my stupid dogs up on the ice.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: "cnc-list" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: "Rick Brass" mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 8:34:39 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running.

Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C&C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough.

Thanks,
Jeremy

Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass 
mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>> wrote:
Jeremy;

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC


___

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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick, that's a relief to hear. I've been worried that I didn't let my A4 
warm up enough to open the thermostat before sucking anti-freeze through it. I 
did run about five gallons of fresh water through it before two gallons of pink 
anti-freeze, and I did confirm pink anti-freeze was coming out the exhaust 
before shutting it down. Will find out next spring whether my winterizing was 
good enough, and will be more thorough next fall. Meanwhile it's too late now - 
we've already had a sub-zero night, and the lake is iced over enough to hold my 
stupid dogs up on the ice. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Rick Brass"  
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 8:34:39 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List freeze proofing 



There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running. 



Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C&C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM. 



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeremy Ralph  
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing 




Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough. 





Thanks, 


Jeremy 





Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass < rickbr...@earthlink.net > wrote: 






Jeremy; 



Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block. 



If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 





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Re: Stus-List freeze proofing

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

There is a bypass port in the thermostat housing that allows a limited amount 
of water flow through the engine block and cylinder head prior to the 
thermostat opening. This is to prevent getting localized hot spots while the 
engine is warming up. So some of your antifreeze gets into the block so long as 
the engine is running.

 

Are you sure it is a 2Qm20? I have a friend with a 1983 C&C 29-1. It has the 
original engine in it, which is a 2Gm13F. I had the impression that the QM was 
a replacement for the GM.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jeremy Ralph 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2016 11:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy Ralph 
Subject: Stus-List freeze proofing

 

Yep, the mighty Yanmar 2qm20 is raw water cooled and the 1978 original. My 
understanding is that the thermostat opens to route salt water through the 
block when warm enough. 

 

Thanks,

Jeremy 



Dec 13, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > wrote:

Jeremy;

 

Someone has probably pointed out in a later post that – unless you have an 
older RAW WATER cooled engine – the water that passes through your sea strainer 
never sees the inside of your engine block.

 

If you have a fresh water cooled engine (most Yanmars have an F in the model 
number) the antifreeze you put in the strainer protects the strainer, the heat 
exchanger, and the muffler. The engine already has antifreeze in it, just like 
your car.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

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Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Russ. Sounds like I'm over thinking it and things will be fine.  I'm
pretty sure the Baileys won't freeze and will make a nice special coffee
when next I'm at the boat :)

On Dec 13, 2016, at 8:14 PM, Russ & Melody  wrote:


Hi Jeremy,

I don't do any specific winterizing on the water sytems.

I'm just across the pond from you in the area I call Pacific South West
(Canada)... I would call Alaska the real PNW. But then again marketing is
not something anywhere near my realm of expertise. However, keeping a boat
in our waters all year 'round is something I've done for 40 years.

Most of the time I keep the venerable "cube heater" on minimum for the
winter. It keeps the boat interior near 40 F degrees (I'm seem to be stuck
in imperial measures too). The period of a power any power outage so far
has not allowed for any negative freezing condition inside the boat, even
though the marina ice can get 1/2" thick (imperial measure again :). As
Patrick points out there is a large moderating influence by the boat
sitting in 45 F degree water.

Don't worry. Be happy. And make yourself an nice "boat coffee" the next
time you check on her.

   Cheers, Russ
   Sweet 35 mk-1, East Vancouver Island
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Stus-List freeze proofing

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick for explaining. I wish I had a freshwater cooled engine. What
I've got is a raw water cooled engine though. There is no heat exchanger or
coolant. Salt water flows thu

On Dec 13, 2016, at 10:20 PM, Rick Rohwer  wrote:

Hi Jeremy,

The water (coolant) inside the freshwater cooled engine is controlled by
the thermostat.  Coolant is approx 50%  glycol to reduce the freeze point
of the coolant (-25F or more).  When the engine hits the set temp (190F),
the thermostat opens and allows coolant cooled by the heat exchanger to
enter the engine.  No raw water should enter the engine block.

Think of the heat exchanger as a radiator.

The amount of raw  (salt or fresh) water is controlled by the speed and
capacity of the raw pump, controlled by the rpm of the engine.  It is belt
driven.  It also continues on past the heat exchange phase to be dumped in
to the path of the hot exhaust, thereby protecting the muffler and exhaust
system from melting.

This system accomplishes the same thing as you are describing but changes
the freeze protection plans.  For freeze protection, I think most folk feed
glycol solution into the raw water pump until they see it exit the exhaust
and then shut it down.

My boat sits in 45-43F seawater virtually all year.  I don’t sweat the
freeze cycle on the engine!  It would have to get really cold for a very
long time.

I would bet the 2QM20 is a mighty warrior of an engine.   I have the
FEARSOME 3HM35F!

Happy sailing!


Rick
Paikea- 37+
Tacoma, WA
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Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Wed, Dec 14, 2016 at 5:59 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK so color me a bit skeptical, but how does one attach the sheets to the
> soft shackle?  If by bowline, isn’t there still the probability of hanging
> up on the shrouds / baby stay when tacking??


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Z-1gA95G_s
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Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The alpine butterfly or spliced eyes are the way to attach with a soft
shackle.  The bulk of the knot and the lead angle of the tails on a bowline
cause it to hang but the eye splices or butterfly knot correct those
problems.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Dec 14, 2016 7:00 AM, "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK so color me a bit skeptical, but how does one attach the sheets to the
> soft shackle?  If by bowline, isn’t there still the probability of hanging
> up on the shrouds / baby stay when tacking??
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Daniel Sheer via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, December 11, 2016 11:25 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Daniel Sheer
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets
>
>
>
> I made soft shackles for Pegathy's jib sheets. They work great. Don't hang
> up on the shrouds like bowlines do. I used 3/8 hollow braid high tech line.
> Used this technique -
>
> Better Soft Shackle -
> 
>
>  Use the line lengths and mark measurements they compute for you. You
> could use smaller than 3/8 line.  Took the better part of an hour to make
> the first one. Then I made more for the spin sheets, spin halyard, anything
> I could think of. The more you make the less time it takes. Much better
> than heavy metal. Unless you like that kind of music.
>
>
>
> Dan Sheer - Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco
>
>
>
>
> Better Soft Shackle
>
> This soft shackle is more secure and easier to use than the most common
> version.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Splice an eye in jib sheet end
Bill Waller
Cnc 36

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Wednesday, December 14, 2016 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:

OK so color me a bit skeptical, but how does one attach the sheets to the soft 
shackle?  If by bowline, isn’t there still the probability of hanging up on the 
shrouds / baby stay when tacking??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

 

I made soft shackles for Pegathy's jib sheets. They work great. Don't hang up 
on the shrouds like bowlines do. I used 3/8 hollow braid high tech line. Used 
this technique - 

Better Soft Shackle - 

 Use the line lengths and mark measurements they compute for you. You could use 
smaller than 3/8 line.  Took the better part of an hour to make the first one. 
Then I made more for the spin sheets, spin halyard, anything I could think of. 
The more you make the less time it takes. Much better than heavy metal. Unless 
you like that kind of music.

 

Dan Sheer - Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

 

Better Soft Shackle

This soft shackle is more secure and easier to use than the most common version.

 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

John,

Soft shackles are a piece of high modulus line with a bury splice at one end 
and a crown knot on the other.  The shackle is closed by slipping the eye over 
the knot on the opposite end and pulling the splice closed by putting tension 
on the shackle.  A soft shackle must be run through the cringle on the sail as 
well as a spliced eye on the end of the sheet. The shackle can be opened by 
removing tension on the shackle and sliding open the splice to loop it off the 
crown knot which otherwise prevents the shaadckle from opening.

Most folks connect the shackle to the sail by running the looped shackle like a 
luggage tag through the cringle on the clew and then opening the shackle to 
pass it through the spliced eye on the jib sheet.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 14, 2016 7:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

 

OK so color me a bit skeptical, but how does one attach the sheets to the soft 
shackle?  If by bowline, isn’t there still the probability of hanging up on the 
shrouds / baby stay when tacking??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

 

I made soft shackles for Pegathy's jib sheets. They work great. Don't hang up 
on the shrouds like bowlines do. I used 3/8 hollow braid high tech line. Used 
this technique - 

Better Soft Shackle -   


 Use the line lengths and mark measurements they compute for you. You could use 
smaller than 3/8 line.  Took the better part of an hour to make the first one. 
Then I made more for the spin sheets, spin halyard, anything I could think of. 
The more you make the less time it takes. Much better than heavy metal. Unless 
you like that kind of music.

 

Dan Sheer - Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

 




Better Soft Shackle


This soft shackle is more secure and easier to use than the most common version.



 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

OK so color me a bit skeptical, but how does one attach the sheets to the soft 
shackle?  If by bowline, isn’t there still the probability of hanging up on the 
shrouds / baby stay when tacking??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Sheer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2016 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Daniel Sheer
Subject: Stus-List Fastening Jib Sheets

 

I made soft shackles for Pegathy's jib sheets. They work great. Don't hang up 
on the shrouds like bowlines do. I used 3/8 hollow braid high tech line. Used 
this technique - 

Better Soft Shackle -   


 Use the line lengths and mark measurements they compute for you. You could use 
smaller than 3/8 line.  Took the better part of an hour to make the first one. 
Then I made more for the spin sheets, spin halyard, anything I could think of. 
The more you make the less time it takes. Much better than heavy metal. Unless 
you like that kind of music.

 

Dan Sheer - Pegathy LF38 - Rock Creek off the Patapsco

 

 




Better Soft Shackle


This soft shackle is more secure and easier to use than the most common version.



 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!