Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

I like your suggestion. Now I recall last summer the exhaust was belching out a 
lot of carbon into the water when the throttle was goosed. You may be onto 
something. Ok. Exhaust elbow disassembly is moving closer to the top of the 
list. 
Thanks. 

Brent
27-5

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 9:36 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Brent,
> 
> If you or the previous owner ran the engine at low rpms frequently, then mix 
> elbow pluggage is more likely.  Diesels, and Yanmars in particular, like high 
> rpm and heavy loads.
> 
> First thing to try is to disconnect the water discharge hose that connects to 
> the mix elbow.  With the engine cold, crank the engine and observe the flow 
> for a short period.  Not long or the hot exhaust will damage the 
> muffler/exhaust hose system.  Reconnect it and observe the water being 
> ejected.  Is it noticeable less?  If so, the mix elbow is partially plugged 
> and should be cleaned.
> 
> If the water flow from the disconnected hose is very low, then start at the 
> discharge of the raw water pump, disconnecting each section and checking for 
> flow with engine running for short periods.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Thanks for the suggestion on the mixing elbow. That's my next item on the 
>> list after the injector. I've read that Yanmar had some very big mixing 
>> elbow issues with some falling apart inside from broken welds and pitted 
>> stainless steel issues. 
>> I'm not sure if there's a t-stat. I've never been able to find it. It's 
>> possible there could be blockages in the raw water channels as a piece of 
>> impeller had broke off years ago and could not be found. It was very small 
>> and hopefully went through. 
>> The good news is these are simple engines and Nigel's book has been helpful. 
>> Cheers
>> 
>> Brent
>> 27-5
>> s/v Wild Rover 
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Brent,

If you or the previous owner ran the engine at low rpms frequently, then
mix elbow pluggage is more likely.  Diesels, and Yanmars in particular,
like high rpm and heavy loads.

First thing to try is to disconnect the water discharge hose that connects
to the mix elbow.  With the engine cold, crank the engine and observe the
flow for a short period.  Not long or the hot exhaust will damage the
muffler/exhaust hose system.  Reconnect it and observe the water being
ejected.  Is it noticeable less?  If so, the mix elbow is partially plugged
and should be cleaned.

If the water flow from the disconnected hose is very low, then start at the
discharge of the raw water pump, disconnecting each section and checking
for flow with engine running for short periods.

Dennis C.



On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 9:01 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the suggestion on the mixing elbow. That's my next item on the
> list after the injector. I've read that Yanmar had some very big mixing
> elbow issues with some falling apart inside from broken welds and pitted
> stainless steel issues.
> I'm not sure if there's a t-stat. I've never been able to find it. It's
> possible there could be blockages in the raw water channels as a piece of
> impeller had broke off years ago and could not be found. It was very small
> and hopefully went through.
> The good news is these are simple engines and Nigel's book has been
> helpful.
> Cheers
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> s/v Wild Rover
>
>
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

Thanks for the suggestion on the mixing elbow. That's my next item on the list 
after the injector. I've read that Yanmar had some very big mixing elbow issues 
with some falling apart inside from broken welds and pitted stainless steel 
issues. 
I'm not sure if there's a t-stat. I've never been able to find it. It's 
possible there could be blockages in the raw water channels as a piece of 
impeller had broke off years ago and could not be found. It was very small and 
hopefully went through. 
The good news is these are simple engines and Nigel's book has been helpful. 
Cheers

Brent
27-5
s/v Wild Rover 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 7:51 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> We’ve already determined that Brent has a raw water cooled engine, so there 
> is not coolant to moniter.
>  
> Normally there is a bypass arrangement in the thermostat housing that allows 
> a small amount of water to circulate through the block to eliminate/minimize 
> the sort of uneven heating you mentioned until the engine comes up to 
> operating temperature and the thermostat opens. It could be as elaborate as a 
> spring loaded poppet or as basic as a small hole in the thermostat itself. I 
> don’t recall what Yanmar did on the 1/2/3GM. But if you shut off the raw 
> water feed in a raw water engine, you would get the sort of uneven heating 
> mentioned plus you’d probably ruin the water pump impeller.
>  
> Brent, have you cleaned out the mixing elbow where cooling water gets put 
> into the exhaust within the last 100 or so engine hours? Don’t know about the 
> white smoke/steam; but plugged mixing elbow is a notorious cause of hard 
> starting problems on Yanmars.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary 
> Russell via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 1:18 PM
> To: C&C List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam
>  
> I would not recommend that, as the uneven heating of the head and block could 
> do a lot of damage before you could ascertain whether there was white smoke 
> or steam coming out.  Carefully watching the coolant level is the safest 
> thing to do.
>  
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
>  
> On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 10:13 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> While not good for the raw water impeller, could a test be carried out where 
> a cold engine is started without a raw water feed for a couple of minutes.  
> If theres a coolant leak in the cylinder the smoke should disappear. Just 
> thinking outside the box. 
>  
> Brent
> 27-5
> s/v Wild Rover
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

We’ve already determined that Brent has a raw water cooled engine, so there is 
not coolant to moniter.

 

Normally there is a bypass arrangement in the thermostat housing that allows a 
small amount of water to circulate through the block to eliminate/minimize the 
sort of uneven heating you mentioned until the engine comes up to operating 
temperature and the thermostat opens. It could be as elaborate as a spring 
loaded poppet or as basic as a small hole in the thermostat itself. I don’t 
recall what Yanmar did on the 1/2/3GM. But if you shut off the raw water feed 
in a raw water engine, you would get the sort of uneven heating mentioned plus 
you’d probably ruin the water pump impeller.

 

Brent, have you cleaned out the mixing elbow where cooling water gets put into 
the exhaust within the last 100 or so engine hours? Don’t know about the white 
smoke/steam; but plugged mixing elbow is a notorious cause of hard starting 
problems on Yanmars.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2017 1:18 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

 

I would not recommend that, as the uneven heating of the head and block could 
do a lot of damage before you could ascertain whether there was white smoke or 
steam coming out.  Carefully watching the coolant level is the safest thing to 
do.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah




~~~_/)~~

 

On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 10:13 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

While not good for the raw water impeller, could a test be carried out where a 
cold engine is started without a raw water feed for a couple of minutes.  If 
theres a coolant leak in the cylinder the smoke should disappear. Just thinking 
outside the box. 

 

Brent

27-5

s/v Wild Rover



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Re: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joe,

800gph seems plenty.  It will rid your bilge of pesky water seepage in no
time.  If you have a serious hull breach, a much larger pump will be
required,

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA





-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joseph
Scott via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 2, 2017 19:10
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joseph Scott 
Subject: Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

Hey All

I need to replace the automatic electric bilge pump. Currently the boat has
a rule 800gph on a float switch. I feel this is woefully inadequate but am
struggling with finding the space in the bilge for something larger not to
mention the fact that the thru hull to go overboard will accept 3/4" hose. 
What do you guys use?

Thanks for any help 

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List CC 38 Bilge Pump

[Joseph Scott via CnC-List]

Hey All

I need to replace the automatic electric bilge pump. Currently the boat has a 
rule 800gph on a float switch. I feel this is woefully inadequate but am 
struggling with finding the space in the bilge for something larger not to 
mention the fact that the thru hull to go overboard will accept 3/4" hose. 
What do you guys use?

Thanks for any help 

Joe

Sent from my iPad
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Re: Stus-List Adding insulation to the icebox on a 38 mk2

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have a 27-III. We lined the icebox with aluminized bubble wrap (like what's 
around some hot water heaters). It added a day or more to ice life. Don't 
forget to do the lid!

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 2, 2017, at 2:30 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I made a cardboard template of the underside of the counter, and cut a piece of 
two-inch closed cell foam to match.  I glued that to the underside of the 
counter.  I also drilled a hole between my stove and the icebox, and injected 
foam into the hole.  This didn't fill all the space around the icebox, but it 
did add to the insulation already there.

Alan Bergen
1984 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 6:07 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
My question is primarily directed at the 38-2 owners on the list, but might 
also be appropriate for owners of other mid 70s boats.

Have you added insulation around the ice box on your boat, and how?

Deconstructing the cabinets, counter, and dish storage cabinet aft of the ice 
box is way more project than I want to tackle (plus I’d undoubtedly screw up 
all that teak.

Access through the little cabinet door under the three silverware drawers is 
miserable. I can basically get one arm into the space, or I can get my head in 
– so I can see a bit but only have limited ability to work in the space under 
the counter. And I don’t see and obvious or easy way to remove the structure 
that supports the drawers to increase the access.

There are surprisingly large spaces between the outside of the ice box and the 
surrounding bulkheads, as much as 6” or more in some places, so spray in foam 
does not seem a practical alternative.

About the only practical alternative I see is to add foam to the inside of the 
box and glass it over.

I could profit from your experiences and suggestions.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




--
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Stus-List Uncored areas on 30-2 deck

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

I am about to reinstall the clutches and handrails on my 30-2.  The PO had
told me that C&C made some areas of the deck uncored where factory equipment
was installed with through-bolts.  I can hear a difference when tapping on
the area that the clutches are installed in, so I am guessing that is
uncored.  I am not as sure about the handrail attachment points.  Wondering
if I need to overdrill and fill these holes to be safe.  Any of you 30-2
owners investigated this?

 

Thanks,

 

Jim Reinardy

C&C 30-2 "Firewater"

Milwaukee, WI

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Re: Stus-List Adding insulation to the icebox on a 38 mk2

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I made a cardboard template of the underside of the counter, and cut a
piece of two-inch closed cell foam to match.  I glued that to the underside
of the counter.  I also drilled a hole between my stove and the icebox, and
injected foam into the hole.  This didn't fill all the space around the
icebox, but it did add to the insulation already there.

Alan Bergen
1984 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 6:07 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My question is primarily directed at the 38-2 owners on the list, but
> might also be appropriate for owners of other mid 70s boats.
>
>
>
> Have you added insulation around the ice box on your boat, and how?
>
>
>
> Deconstructing the cabinets, counter, and dish storage cabinet aft of the
> ice box is way more project than I want to tackle (plus I’d undoubtedly
> screw up all that teak.
>
>
>
> Access through the little cabinet door under the three silverware drawers
> is miserable. I can basically get one arm into the space, or I can get my
> head in – so I can see a bit but only have limited ability to work in the
> space under the counter. And I don’t see and obvious or easy way to remove
> the structure that supports the drawers to increase the access.
>
>
>
> There are surprisingly large spaces between the outside of the ice box and
> the surrounding bulkheads, as much as 6” or more in some places, so spray
> in foam does not seem a practical alternative.
>
>
>
> About the only practical alternative I see is to add foam to the inside of
> the box and glass it over.
>
>
>
> I could profit from your experiences and suggestions.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C&C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C&C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> czXkjJILYgg5ipC6OWDoQq_2WwBGZTDH_H_qfAYj0CM&s=JFPyYNuN5YIRtrxILL_
> WqFk6Vx2JZX1wx2I1sGcAwt0&e=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Diesel injectors

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Brent,
  I have had a Yanmar YSB12 for 15 years now, and one thing I have had 
to re-learn a few times is don't be too quick to dismiss the possibility of a 
cooling water supply issue. Just because you can see water coming out the 
exhaust does not mean that there is enough. The culprit in each case on my boat 
for white smoke was a partial blockage caused a bit of whatever that was sucked 
in and lodged somewhere. The addition of a raw water strainer narrowed down the 
possibilities, broken impeller bits notwithstanding, but I have since got 
chunks stuck in various places including in the strainer housing itself where 
it could not be seen. I would recommend a strainer oversized in hose diameter 
to prevent that last one from happening. Anyway, the bottom line is make really 
really sure there is lots of water flow before you fix something else. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON 


 Brent Driedger via CnC-List  wrote: 
Greetings all. 

The 1GM10 Yanmar on my 27 began to give me issues last summer. The usual 
complaints, hard starting, ran well once it was going. I replaced the filter in 
the fall and my next move is to replace the old fuel and clean the tank. 
But judging from the white smoke in the exhaust I'm thinking the injector spray 
pattern is off and I'm getting some dripping.  I'm planning to extract and 
clean it or replace it. 
Any tips from those who have done this would be appreciated. 

Brent Driedger
27-5
Wild Rover
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I would not recommend that, as the uneven heating of the head and block
could do a lot of damage before you could ascertain whether there was white
smoke or steam coming out.  Carefully watching the coolant level is the
safest thing to do.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Apr 2, 2017 at 10:13 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> While not good for the raw water impeller, could a test be carried out
> where a cold engine is started without a raw water feed for a couple of
> minutes.  If theres a coolant leak in the cylinder the smoke should
> disappear. Just thinking outside the box.
>
> Brent
> 27-5
> s/v Wild Rover
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 2, 2017, at 7:22 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> In the general sense, probably not.  In this case, where the leak is
> suspected to be between the cylinder and the coolant passages, it might
> show the problem.  But a leak between a coolant passage and and an oil
> passage, (for example)  would not show up on a compression test.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 11:14 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Just a question but couldn't a compression test be done to rule out a
>> head gasket issue?
>> Len
>>
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cable for starter

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I used 4 gauge. I have a hydraulic tool to crimp. Tell me how long and what 
sized ends and I can make it. Send a twenty to Stu.  Joe. Coquina

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 10:09, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I am planning to do the upgrade recommended in Maine Sailor 
> (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade) to run 
> a wire from the alternator directly to the starter to bypass the 10G wire to 
> the gauge.  I am trying to figure out what kind of cable I need.  Premade 
> battery cables have very large ring terminals and I was told that they. are 
> really too large for the connectors on both ends in this case.  My crimp tool 
> only goes to 10G so I can’t use it to make a cable.  I am not sure what gauge 
> wire makes sense to use for this and how to get one with the correct 
> terminals.  Suggestions?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

While not good for the raw water impeller, could a test be carried out where a 
cold engine is started without a raw water feed for a couple of minutes.  If 
theres a coolant leak in the cylinder the smoke should disappear. Just thinking 
outside the box. 

Brent
27-5
s/v Wild Rover

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 2, 2017, at 7:22 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> In the general sense, probably not.  In this case, where the leak is 
> suspected to be between the cylinder and the coolant passages, it might show 
> the problem.  But a leak between a coolant passage and and an oil passage, 
> (for example)  would not show up on a compression test.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 11:14 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Just a question but couldn't a compression test be done to rule out a head 
>> gasket issue?
>> Len
>> 
>> Sent from my mobile device.
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Cable for starter

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am planning to do the upgrade recommended in Maine Sailor 
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade) to run a 
wire from the alternator directly to the starter to bypass the 10G wire to the 
gauge.  I am trying to figure out what kind of cable I need.  Premade battery 
cables have very large ring terminals and I was told that they. are really too 
large for the connectors on both ends in this case.  My crimp tool only goes to 
10G so I can’t use it to make a cable.  I am not sure what gauge wire makes 
sense to use for this and how to get one with the correct terminals.  
Suggestions?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Adding insulation to the icebox on a 38 mk2

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My question is primarily directed at the 38-2 owners on the list, but might
also be appropriate for owners of other mid 70s boats.

 

Have you added insulation around the ice box on your boat, and how?

 

Deconstructing the cabinets, counter, and dish storage cabinet aft of the
ice box is way more project than I want to tackle (plus I'd undoubtedly
screw up all that teak.

 

Access through the little cabinet door under the three silverware drawers is
miserable. I can basically get one arm into the space, or I can get my head
in - so I can see a bit but only have limited ability to work in the space
under the counter. And I don't see and obvious or easy way to remove the
structure that supports the drawers to increase the access.

 

There are surprisingly large spaces between the outside of the ice box and
the surrounding bulkheads, as much as 6" or more in some places, so spray in
foam does not seem a practical alternative.

 

About the only practical alternative I see is to add foam to the inside of
the box and glass it over.

 

I could profit from your experiences and suggestions.

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List white smoke/steam

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

In the general sense, probably not.  In this case, where the leak is
suspected to be between the cylinder and the coolant passages, it might
show the problem.  But a leak between a coolant passage and and an oil
passage, (for example)  would not show up on a compression test.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 1, 2017 at 11:14 PM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just a question but couldn't a compression test be done to rule out a head
> gasket issue?
> Len
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Stus-List Horizontal filter replacement tip

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

Hello all,  I saw one tip on replacing horizontal oil and fuel filters that works for me.  Loosen it so that it will just turn by hand.  Punch a hole in the top side of the filter.  Then turn it so that it starts to drain into a cup.  You may need to punch another hole on the opposite side to let air in so it drains.Kindest Regards, BruceC&C 37/40+Sent from Samsung tablet. Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  Date: 3/31/2017  11:42 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: C&C List  Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement I hated how much fuel needed to be vented off my racor 200FG and it still never seemed to be completely vented.  The original vent was just a knurled knob on the outlet sife fitting.  It wasn't even at the highest point of the filter housing and didn't allow catching the vented fuel.  I started thinking about how to maybe get a higher vent point.  First I drilled and tapped a hole in the top of the housing and put a typical brake bleed type of fitting.  It worked but necessitated using small tubing to direct the vented fuel into a bottle.  It wasn't until I performed this mod that I realized just how much fuel needed to be vented in order to flush all the air out of the filter.  I was usually looking at about 1 gallon of fuel just to get all the air out.I started thinking about how to direct that vented fuel back to the tank.  I was going to run a return fuel line when it occurred to me that the engine already has a return fuel line from the injectors.  I changed the bleeder valve to a t-handle valve.  Then I inserted a tee fitting and t-handled valve in the return fuel hose.  Then I connected the 2 t-handled valves with some clear tubing.The 2 t-handled valves isolate the vent tubing during normal operation and maintain the integrity of the original components.  When venting, both t-handled valves are openwd to create a flow path back to the tank.  You can watch the air bubbles in the clear tubing disapate as the vent continues.See my video at about 2:10 minutes.https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m12sThese engines take a 2 micron engine filter and I run a 2 micron racor. The racor is now easier to change and bleed so I prefer it to clog first.  I also show a vacuum gage which I installed on my racor in the video.  A new racor filter has shown to have very low vacuum so whenever it starts to creep up I change it...hasn't happened yet.Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn Mar 30, 2017 7:18 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List"  wrote:Depends on which filter you’re talking about. The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit of throttle, but it will start.  If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38. As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this little filter. Rick BrassWashington, NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AMTo: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT ___

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