Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

That's butyl

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 13, 2017, at 7:55 PM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Windshield installers generally use black burly rubber to the best of my 
knowledge.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 6/13/17 1:48 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" mailto:wolf...@erie.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

I had a similar experience replacing the lens on my 34’s Atkins & Hoyle hatch.  
I suggest spraying the knobs with a penetrating oil and let sit for a while.  I 
don’t recall what I used as a bedding compound on that hatch.  However, when I 
replaced the lens on my current boat, I took it to an auto glass repair shop 
and they used silicone, which failed within one year.  When they re-bedded the 
lens, I told them to use whatever they use on car windshields.  Two years 
without a leak.

From: DON JONSSON via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 11:52 AM
To: Jeremy Ralph
Cc: DON JONSSON ; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

Hi

I replaced the lens in my hatch a number of years ago and it has been fine ever 
since.  It wasn't leaking but you could no longer see through it.

The main challenge was getting the knobs off of the top side of the latches in 
order to get the old lens out and the new one in.  I had to drill out the old 
screws which was a non-trivial exercise.  If you can get them off you are good 
to go.

I had the new lens made up in town and it was reasonably inexpensive, but I 
don't recall the price.

The other mistake I made was bedding it in sikaflex with out using the primer.  
The first attempt  leaked.  Then I had to take the lens out and clean 
everything spotless again.  The cost of the sikaflex primer as very high of 
which I needed only a tiny bit so I went with a Dow Corning 795 which didn't 
require a primer.  It worked well and hasn't leaked.  I used it on a couple of 
other lens replacements since then and all are leak free.

My lens has no screw going though it, it is held in place just by the 795.

There is lots of advice on the internet about replacing lenses.

Don
C&C 34
Victoria, BC


From: "Jeremy Ralph" mailto:jeremy.ra...@gmail.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:57:14 PM
Subject: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

Hi All,

My C&C 34-1 hatch has some leaks.  I put some new hatch tape on then had a kid 
soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks.  It's leaking between plastic 
and metal, not where the tape is.

Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better option?

Photo of the said hatch:  https://flic.kr/p/V8Vp4J

Thanks,

  Jeremy
  C&C 34-1 #041
  Vancouver BC



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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Windshield installers generally use black burly rubber to the best of my 
knowledge.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
 Date: 6/13/17  1:48 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks 



I had a similar experience replacing the lens on my 34’s Atkins & Hoyle 
hatch.  I suggest spraying the knobs with a penetrating oil and let sit for 
a while.  I don’t recall what I used as a bedding compound on that 
hatch.  However, when I replaced the lens on my current boat, I took it to 
an auto glass repair shop and they used silicone, which failed within one 
year.  When they re-bedded the lens, I told them to use whatever they use 
on car windshields.  Two years without a leak. 


 

From: DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 11:52 AM
To: Jeremy Ralph 
Cc: DON 
JONSSON ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch 
leaks
 


Hi
 
I replaced the lens in my hatch a number of years ago and it has been fine 
ever since.  It wasn't leaking but you could no longer see through 
it.
 
The main challenge was getting the knobs off of the top side of the latches 
in order to get the old lens out and the new one in.  I had to drill out 
the old screws which was a non-trivial exercise.  If you can get them off 
you are good to go.  
 
I had the new lens made up in town and it was reasonably inexpensive, but I 
don't recall the price.
 
The other mistake I made was bedding it in sikaflex with out using the 
primer.  The first attempt  leaked.  Then I had to take the lens 
out and clean everything spotless again.  The cost of the sikaflex primer 
as very high of which I needed only a tiny bit so I went with a Dow Corning 795 
which didn't require a primer.  It worked well and hasn't leaked.  I 
used it on a couple of other lens replacements since then and all are leak 
free.
 
My lens has no screw going though it, it is held in place just by the 
795.
 
There is lots of advice on the internet about replacing lenses.
 
Don
C&C 34
Victoria, BC
 


From: "Jeremy Ralph" 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: 
Monday, June 12, 2017 1:57:14 PM
Subject: Stus-List Fixing V-berth 
port hatch leaks

 

Hi All,
 
My C&C 34-1 hatch has some leaks.  I put some new hatch tape on 
then had a kid soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks.  It's leaking 
between plastic and metal, not where the tape is.   
 
Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better 
option?  
 
Photo of the said hatch:  https://flic.kr/p/V8Vp4J
 
Thanks,
 
  Jeremy
  C&C 34-1 #041 
  Vancouver BC
 


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Subject: Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

"How do I gauge?" - this is the argument for paying $500 for the Loos
Tension gauge, otherwise you are just guessing.

I believe there are micro bends, stretches, seating, and flexing throughout
the system which allow the rig to loosen up.  With such low stretch rod
rigging only a fraction of an inch can be the difference between hundreds
of pounds of tension and zero pounds.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jun 13, 2017 12:40 PM, "Dave S via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Timely...
> I set up my rigging per the instructions in the owners manual immediately
> after launch, and Windstar sat for a few weeks other than a couple of very
> gentle sails.  Finally got to give her a righteous thrashing last weekend
> and I returned with slack upper shrouds - a bit alarming.  Lowers and mids
> not obviously changed, mast step not collapsing, chainplates not failing.
> I suspect I had not adequately tightened the uppers.  A neighbor explained
> that his boat changes shape a bit once launched (or rather, sitting on the
> cradle all winter distorts it a bit.)
>
> Without a gauge, how do I gauge that ensure that the shrouds are tight
> enough?  Deflection?
>
> What is it that re-seats and settles when the rig is first set up?
>
> Tx.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: robert 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Hugh Briggs 
> Bcc:
> Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2017 10:08:46 -0300
> Subject: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32
> Hugh:
>
> Your rod rigging is probably the same as minehopefully your Loos gauge
> can measure 'rod tension' and not simply 'wire'.   I have the Loos RT 10
> gauge.
>
> According to NavTec, the breaking point of the rod is 8,000 lbs. and they
> recommend not exceeding 25% or 2,000 lbs. in our case for tension of the
> shrouds.
>
> My uppers are normally around 1,300 to 1,350 lbs..the lowers 1,200 to
> 1,250 lbs.. that equates to numbers on my gauge of around 39 to 40
> uppers to 37 to 38 lowers.  The rig will always loosen a bit after the mast
> is stepped and tension first applied.mine always does.
>
> At rest, my backstay tension is around 1,000 lbs.more when the split
> backstay is pulled down.
>
> The babystay is approx. 500 lbs.
>
>  My rig has been tensioned this way each year since I got the boat in 2006.
>
> Trusting this is helpful.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-06-12 10:02 PM, Hugh Briggs via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> Hello I am the proud new owner of a 1981 C&C 32 and am trying to set up
>> the standing rigging. I have the use of a  Loos Gauge and would like to
>> know what the tension should be set at. I initially set it at 15 and went
>> sailing. The rig has lost a few points and now reads at about 13. Are there
>> tables for the outer and inner shrouds?
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Hugh Briggs
>> C&C 32
>> Desiderata
>> Thunder Bay, ON
>> Lake Superior
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List New potential C&C owner... maybe?

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 I am struck by how closely the boat resembles a J-30 of the late 70s

 http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html



Richard
s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

  




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sander via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 6:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sander
Subject: Stus-List New potential C&C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c&c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c&c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c&c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 


Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.


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Re: Stus-List New potential C&C owner... maybe?

[John Russo via CnC-List]

Not familiar with the boat but beautiful lines and looks clean. I have a 1984 
C&C 32 and love it! I know this does not necessarily help but you will not be 
disappointed assuming the boat is in as good shape as she looks.

 

John

Arpeggio

C&C 32 1984

Norwalk CT USA  

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of sander via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 6:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: sander
Subject: Stus-List New potential C&C owner... maybe?

 

Hi all,

 

I hope everybody is enjoying a fantastic sailing season so far. It's been years 
since I subbed this list, back then you gave me great advice regarding the 
purchase of a completely stripped c&c 27. I ended up not buying the boat, 
mostly because I lack both experience and money to complete a rebuild project 
within any reasonable timeframe.

 

In the meantime I left my employer to start my own business. After a bit of 
initial struggles, the success is giving me the benefit of expanding my budget 
for a boat, for which I am very grateful :-)

 

And guess what... another c&c for sale just 15 mins driving from where i live. 
This one is a 30E which apparently is a European build. I live in The 
Netherlands, by the way.

Here is a link to the boat for sale:

http://www.devaartyachting.com/nl/956/cc-30e.html

Really, I don't know why c&c keeps calling me hahaha.

 

Does anyone of you have any experience with this particular model and what are 
the things I should specifically look for when going to see the boat? It's on 
blocks so I can see under the waterline as well.

 

Thanks!

Sander.

 

Verzonden vanaf mijn Samsung Galaxy-smartphone.

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I had a similar experience replacing the lens on my 34’s Atkins & Hoyle hatch.  
I suggest spraying the knobs with a penetrating oil and let sit for a while.  I 
don’t recall what I used as a bedding compound on that hatch.  However, when I 
replaced the lens on my current boat, I took it to an auto glass repair shop 
and they used silicone, which failed within one year.  When they re-bedded the 
lens, I told them to use whatever they use on car windshields.  Two years 
without a leak. 

From: DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 13, 2017 11:52 AM
To: Jeremy Ralph 
Cc: DON JONSSON ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

Hi

I replaced the lens in my hatch a number of years ago and it has been fine ever 
since.  It wasn't leaking but you could no longer see through it.

The main challenge was getting the knobs off of the top side of the latches in 
order to get the old lens out and the new one in.  I had to drill out the old 
screws which was a non-trivial exercise.  If you can get them off you are good 
to go.  

I had the new lens made up in town and it was reasonably inexpensive, but I 
don't recall the price.

The other mistake I made was bedding it in sikaflex with out using the primer.  
The first attempt  leaked.  Then I had to take the lens out and clean 
everything spotless again.  The cost of the sikaflex primer as very high of 
which I needed only a tiny bit so I went with a Dow Corning 795 which didn't 
require a primer.  It worked well and hasn't leaked.  I used it on a couple of 
other lens replacements since then and all are leak free.

My lens has no screw going though it, it is held in place just by the 795.

There is lots of advice on the internet about replacing lenses.

Don
C&C 34
Victoria, BC




From: "Jeremy Ralph" 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:57:14 PM
Subject: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks


Hi All,

My C&C 34-1 hatch has some leaks.  I put some new hatch tape on then had a kid 
soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks.  It's leaking between plastic 
and metal, not where the tape is.   

Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better option?  

Photo of the said hatch:  https://flic.kr/p/V8Vp4J

Thanks,

  Jeremy
  C&C 34-1 #041 
  Vancouver BC




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List set screws

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

If it is like the one I just replaced on my 30-1, the two halves of the coupler 
are bolted together with four bolts which have lock washers. They are not set 
up for a lock wire. The aft part of the coupler is positioned on the shaft with 
a key and is held in place with two square headed lock bolts. These fit into 
dimples on the shaft and have provision for a lock wire. I ran the wire through 
one and then twisted it and ran it over to the other, ran through that and 
twisted some more. 

 

Gary

St. Michaels

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 9:51 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List set screws

 

Bill, 

 

I can't picture why there is inadequate room to lock wire the screws.  When you 
say perpendicular to the coupler I can't picture if that is perpendicular to 
the shaft or inline with the shaft.  I think you're describing inline with the 
shaft which makes me wonder why using a cotter pin wouldn't work?

 

Either way, lock wire should normally be routed in a figure 8 such that 
loosening of either or both of the bolts will result in the tightening of the 
wire.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

 

On Jun 11, 2017 4:31 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

All,
  I replaced prop shaft and coupler this spring.  Shaft is seated in coupler 
and two square head, drilled, cup pointed bolts go into dimples in shaft..i 
know that proper technique is to properly safety wire the bolts through drilled 
heads so can't come loose.  But, when seated the drilled holes in bolt heads 
are perpendicular to coupler and there is absolutely no room to properly safety 
wire these..
I could remove bolts, drill opposite faces of bolt, reinstall and safety wire, 
BUT, I was thinking of getting proper size cup head set screws instead and 
stacking two in the coupler to lock them instead.
Thoughts..

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail


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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel, Matthew, and Don!

Rebuild/rebedding that hatch lens now on my increasingly growing list of
projects.

I'm curious, when removing port lenses for such a project, what do people
do to keep things sealed up?  I may redo settee windows at the same time.
I see some boats with plastic sheeting and duct tape while under
construction...

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Stus-List Subject: Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Timely...
I set up my rigging per the instructions in the owners manual immediately
after launch, and Windstar sat for a few weeks other than a couple of very
gentle sails.  Finally got to give her a righteous thrashing last weekend
and I returned with slack upper shrouds - a bit alarming.  Lowers and mids
not obviously changed, mast step not collapsing, chainplates not failing.
I suspect I had not adequately tightened the uppers.  A neighbor explained
that his boat changes shape a bit once launched (or rather, sitting on the
cradle all winter distorts it a bit.)

Without a gauge, how do I gauge that ensure that the shrouds are tight
enough?  Deflection?

What is it that re-seats and settles when the rig is first set up?

Tx.

Dave



-- Forwarded message --
From: robert 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hugh Briggs 
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 13 Jun 2017 10:08:46 -0300
Subject: Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32
Hugh:

Your rod rigging is probably the same as minehopefully your Loos gauge
can measure 'rod tension' and not simply 'wire'.   I have the Loos RT 10
gauge.

According to NavTec, the breaking point of the rod is 8,000 lbs. and they
recommend not exceeding 25% or 2,000 lbs. in our case for tension of the
shrouds.

My uppers are normally around 1,300 to 1,350 lbs..the lowers 1,200 to
1,250 lbs.. that equates to numbers on my gauge of around 39 to 40
uppers to 37 to 38 lowers.  The rig will always loosen a bit after the mast
is stepped and tension first applied.mine always does.

At rest, my backstay tension is around 1,000 lbs.more when the split
backstay is pulled down.

The babystay is approx. 500 lbs.

 My rig has been tensioned this way each year since I got the boat in 2006.

Trusting this is helpful.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-06-12 10:02 PM, Hugh Briggs via CnC-List wrote:

> Hello I am the proud new owner of a 1981 C&C 32 and am trying to set up
> the standing rigging. I have the use of a  Loos Gauge and would like to
> know what the tension should be set at. I initially set it at 15 and went
> sailing. The rig has lost a few points and now reads at about 13. Are there
> tables for the outer and inner shrouds?
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Hugh Briggs
> C&C 32
> Desiderata
> Thunder Bay, ON
> Lake Superior
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks

[DON JONSSON via CnC-List]

Hi 

I replaced the lens in my hatch a number of years ago and it has been fine ever 
since. It wasn't leaking but you could no longer see through it. 

The main challenge was getting the knobs off of the top side of the latches in 
order to get the old lens out and the new one in. I had to drill out the old 
screws which was a non-trivial exercise. If you can get them off you are good 
to go. 

I had the new lens made up in town and it was reasonably inexpensive, but I 
don't recall the price. 

The other mistake I made was bedding it in sikaflex with out using the primer. 
The first attempt leaked. Then I had to take the lens out and clean everything 
spotless again. The cost of the sikaflex primer as very high of which I needed 
only a tiny bit so I went with a Dow Corning 795 which didn't require a primer. 
It worked well and hasn't leaked. I used it on a couple of other lens 
replacements since then and all are leak free. 

My lens has no screw going though it, it is held in place just by the 795. 

There is lots of advice on the internet about replacing lenses. 

Don 
C&C 34 
Victoria, BC 


From: "Jeremy Ralph"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 1:57:14 PM 
Subject: Stus-List Fixing V-berth port hatch leaks 

Hi All, 

My C&C 34-1 hatch has some leaks. I put some new hatch tape on then had a kid 
soak it with a hose while I checked for leaks. It's leaking between plastic and 
metal, not where the tape is. 

Is it worthwhile to try an fix or is replacing the whole unit a better option? 

Photo of the said hatch: https://flic.kr/p/V8Vp4J 

Thanks, 

Jeremy 
C&C 34-1 #041 
Vancouver BC 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Bruce,

The previous owner had a Robertson Autopilot installed on my boat with an 
Octopus hydraulic drive. The Robertson only worked intermittently and shipping 
it out to get serviced turned into a gigantic waste of money (one more year of 
use). So, I started shopping replacements. 

I went with the Raymarine system, which will connect effortlessly to your 
hydraulic drive’s 4 wires. Everything is clearly labelled and even if you wire 
it backwards, the setup mode on the Raymarine p70 will correct that internally. 

I did my first real test a few weeks ago: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xl_2lh8JhyI 
 Works incredibly well. I can’t 
recommend the Raymarine system enough. 

I still have to connect it to my Raymarine e95 MFD to round out the system, but 
high temperatures last weekend made the prospect of running another network 
cable down my binnacle prohibitive (I’d be a puddle in the cockpit), but that 
is the next step. 



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
Enterprise’s YouTube Channel — 
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCOgsTCs2akqxThptvm_Zxyw 
 











> On Jun 12, 2017, at 9:17 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
> outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the 
> wired controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh 
> well, something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've 
> been pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!
> 
> So, I have a couple questions:
> 
> 1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
> retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?
> 
> 2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 
> MFD at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
> autopilot as well?
> 
> 3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?  
> 
> Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
> on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
> I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
> just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn 
> another language.  
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Usually you can mix and match autopilot drives and autopilots *as long as the 
drive is within the capacity of the autopilot*. Using a 10 amp drive with a 5 
amp autopilot will not end well. Most – actually all that I have ever worked on 
– hydraulic rams have two sets of wires. The pump has two wires that drive the 
pump one way for port and then with polarity reversed the pump goes the other 
way for starboard. The second set of wires operate a bypass valve that allows 
the boat to be steered by hand when the autopilot is off. There may well be 
other configurations I have not worked on, so it is worth checking to make sure 
of what you have. Back in the day we bought Octopus rams for Raytheon 
autopilots with no issues at all.
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Original AH-4000 autopilot from 1988. 29 years with the same autopilot ☺ (only 
replaced the drive twice and computer 3 times LOL)

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ron Ricci 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 10:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

Bruce,

I have Raymarine instrumentation and added their autopilot.  The system works 
extremely well.  The locked heading mode keeps the boat on course within a 
degree or two while barely moving the rudder.  Wind vane mode gives similar 
performance.  Auto tach is better than most helmsmen.  Your old ram should be 
fine.  The key to the system is their control algorithm and use of 9 (I think) 
inputs from the boat’s instrumentation.  The P70R interface is easy to use.  I 
can control most of the AP from my E125 but need the P70R to use wind vane and 
auto tach.
Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 9:17 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

Hello all,

I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired 
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh well, 
something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've been 
pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!

So, I have a couple questions:

1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?

2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well?

3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?

Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn another 
language.

Thanks for the help!

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Rod Rigging Tension C&C 32

[robert via CnC-List]

Hugh:

Your rod rigging is probably the same as minehopefully your Loos 
gauge can measure 'rod tension' and not simply 'wire'.   I have the Loos 
RT 10 gauge.


According to NavTec, the breaking point of the rod is 8,000 lbs. and 
they recommend not exceeding 25% or 2,000 lbs. in our case for tension 
of the shrouds.


My uppers are normally around 1,300 to 1,350 lbs..the lowers 1,200 
to 1,250 lbs.. that equates to numbers on my gauge of around 39 to 
40 uppers to 37 to 38 lowers.  The rig will always loosen a bit after 
the mast is stepped and tension first applied.mine always does.


At rest, my backstay tension is around 1,000 lbs.more when the split 
backstay is pulled down.


The babystay is approx. 500 lbs.

 My rig has been tensioned this way each year since I got the boat in 
2006.


Trusting this is helpful.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-06-12 10:02 PM, Hugh Briggs via CnC-List wrote:

Hello I am the proud new owner of a 1981 C&C 32 and am trying to set up the 
standing rigging. I have the use of a  Loos Gauge and would like to know what the 
tension should be set at. I initially set it at 15 and went sailing. The rig has 
lost a few points and now reads at about 13. Are there tables for the outer and 
inner shrouds?
Thanks in advance.

Hugh Briggs
C&C 32
Desiderata
Thunder Bay, ON
Lake Superior


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Larry via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce

Last fall I lost my display also. I went with Ravmarine for the same reason.  
However I bought a complete Autopilot and drive. I ended up replacing 
everything but the drive. I now have a new back up drive unit. The old drive 
unit work great so I saw no reason to go through the trouble. Everything else I 
replaced because it was a nice update and quick. I wanted to relocate a few 
things anyway. The drive wires were A and B on the new system and color coded 
on the old system, or vice-versa. I had to call the help desk to get a quick 
answer. But I could have just a easily hooked up the wires and engaged it to 
determine if it was reversed. 

 

Anyway it is and easy swap and good luck.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 6:17 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

 

Hello all,

 

I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the wired 
controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh well, 
something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've been 
pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!

 

So, I have a couple questions:

 

1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?

 

2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well?

 

3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why?  

 

Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn another 
language.  

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madiera Beach, FL 

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,
Would you mind being a little more specific as to your Raymarine AP experience?
Thanks, 
Bruce 


Sent from Samsung tablet.

 Original message 
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List  
Date: 6/12/2017  10:28 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Pete Shelquist  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement 

I put in a Garmin AP to drive a 3rd party hydraulic ram.  Simple and works 
great.  Plays well with B&G components I have.    I did try Raymarine AP once.  
Never again.   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 12, 2017 8:38 PM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement This is not a definitive 
answer but simply an observation.  I believe that keeping the hydraulics is 
probably achievable and a good choice.  They are pretty simple.  2 drive wires 
(+/-) and 2 directional wires (+/-).  From what I can tell that is normal.  You 
will have to find out how much current and what voltage the drive motor draws 
and ensure that it mates with the new drive controller...or rather ensure that 
you select a new drive controller that mates to your hydraulics drive.  You may 
find that you're rudder angle sender will need changed out... Mhe, no biggie.  
If your flux gate compass still works fine you may be able to save a few bucks 
and some labor by reusing it. It seems most of the list is fond of Raymarine 
products but I agree with the intuitive nature of Garmin products.  I suggest 
looking for a unit that is as forward and backwards compatibile as possible and 
does not employ proprietary controls.  I don't know all of the possible options 
but NMEA0183, NMEA2000, wifi, and SignalK would be on my wish list.  This will 
help minimize planned obsolescence. Have you checked ebay or consignment shops 
for repair/replacement parts?  Might be easier and more cost effective.  Over 
the years I have amassed replacement parts for nearly all of my critical and 
high dollar components. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MDOn 
Jun 12, 2017 9:18 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"  
wrote:Hello all, I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 
autopilot.  It is outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the 
display on the wired controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to 
cooperate.  Oh well, something had to substantially exceed the budget for 
upgrades...  I've been pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you! So, I have a 
couple questions: 1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would 
just as soon not retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible? 
2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 MFD 
at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
autopilot as well? 3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot 
and why?   Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, 
recent review on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As 
a side note, I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to 
Garmin, and just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to 
learn another language.   Thanks for the help! Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+, 
"Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Facing an autopilot replacement

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I've had the Raymarine on most of the boats I've sailed in the past few years 
and haven't had a failure yet...or with any of the other brands,  except a 
poorly maintained B&G. I like Raymarine and use it on my boat. 
You should be fine with your existing ram.
 
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> 
> Hello all,
>  
> I think I'm going to succumb and replace our Navico PH8000 autopilot.  It is 
> outdated to the point there are no replacement parts, the display on the 
> wired controller is faded, and I just can't seem to get it to cooperate.  Oh 
> well, something had to substantially exceed the budget for upgrades...  I've 
> been pretty lucky so far thanks to many of you!
>  
> So, I have a couple questions:
>  
> 1).  The hydraulic ram works well, with no leaks.  I would just as soon not 
> retrofit a different one.  Is this reasonable and possible?
>  
> 2).  We have Raymarine instrumentation throughout the boat, including a C90 
> MFD at the helm.  Does this drive the decision to go with Raymarine for the 
> autopilot as well?
>  
> 3).  What is your favorite (and least favorite) autopilot and why? 
>  
> Interestingly, I'm having a hard time finding an authoritative, recent review 
> on autopilots.  Does anyone know of a link to a good review>  As a side note, 
> I'm just finding the C90 difficult to learn.  I had been used to Garmin, and 
> just found it so intuitive, that the Raymarine is like trying to learn 
> another language.  
>  
> Thanks for the help!
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!