Re: Stus-List East Coast weather

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Um...we have new rose leaves, the primulas are starting to bloom and the
garlic is doing well.

Sorry.


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 6 January 2018 at 20:50, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Quite bitter. I chickened out and skipped this morning skiing – it was -26
> C an 40-50 km/h wind. It was much nicer at home.
>
>
>
> Mid-week it went up to -8 C and everyone around was talking about a heat
> wave.
>
>
>
> Keep warm.
>
>
>
> The good news is that the days are getting longer…
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C.
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, January 5, 2018 5:28:54 PM
> *To:* CnClist
> *Cc:* Dennis C.
> *Subject:* Stus-List East Coast weather
>
> Bitter cold in NE, cold down South, no snow in the Rockies, T-shirts in
> Alaska?  Anybody else confused?
>
> I normally just smile at the threads on hauling out and winterizing but
> this year is different.  The only thing I do to winterize Touche' is to
> depressure the pressure water system, pull out the cockpit shower to drain
> it and ensure there is some air in the spray handle.  Couldn't get over to
> Pensacola to do that.  Suspect it froze and cracked.  Ordered new one just
> in case.  :(
>
> Hope everyone fares OK in the cold.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 4:07 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> 5 degrees in washington nc.  Looking to stay warm.
>> Jim schwartz
>> 38 lf
>> SEA YA!
>> washington nc
>>
>>  Original message 
>> From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>> Date: 1/5/18 2:47 PM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella
>>
>> Currently 5 degrees F in Erie.  With about seven feet of snow.
>>
>> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Friday, January 05, 2018 1:57 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella
>>
>> All,
>>
>> Its 20 degrees F in Annapolis.  I'm looking for indoor projects.  One is
>> to wrap the LifeSling bag in Sunbrella before the bag disintegrates.
>>
>> Any advice on an adhesive?
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>>
>> --
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Small lead weight "sewn" into anchor rode?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

To mess with future owners?

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 6 January 2018 at 14:50, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> On both of my old anchor rodes, there is a small (6 oz or so) lead weight
> with a line through the middle, with the line on both ends woven into the
> rode so that the weight stays held up against the line in place.  On one
> line, the weight is about 10 feet from the end connected to the chain.  On
> the other one, it is more like 20 feet.
>
> What would be the purpose of these small weights?
>
> Thanks for the insight,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I bought one from them last fall. Very good quality.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jerome Tauber via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 7:34:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

[Hunter Owners Parts]

Sunbrella lifesling covers
Any color, fits over existing bag to match your existing canvas.

DETAILS



Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 5, 2018, at 6:53 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Buy sunbrella and then make a bag. easy to do.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List East Coast weather

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Quite bitter. I chickened out and skipped this morning skiing – it was -26 C an 
40-50 km/h wind. It was much nicer at home.

Mid-week it went up to -8 C and everyone around was talking about a heat wave.

Keep warm.

The good news is that the days are getting longer…

Marek
Ottawa, ON

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 5:28:54 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List East Coast weather

Bitter cold in NE, cold down South, no snow in the Rockies, T-shirts in Alaska? 
 Anybody else confused?

I normally just smile at the threads on hauling out and winterizing but this 
year is different.  The only thing I do to winterize Touche' is to depressure 
the pressure water system, pull out the cockpit shower to drain it and ensure 
there is some air in the spray handle.  Couldn't get over to Pensacola to do 
that.  Suspect it froze and cracked.  Ordered new one just in case.  :(

Hope everyone fares OK in the cold.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 4:07 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List 
> wrote:
5 degrees in washington nc.  Looking to stay warm.
Jim schwartz
38 lf
SEA YA!
washington nc

 Original message 
From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List" 
>
Date: 1/5/18 2:47 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella

Currently 5 degrees F in Erie.  With about seven feet of snow.

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 05, 2018 1:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Wrapping LifeSling with Sunbrella

All,

Its 20 degrees F in Annapolis.  I'm looking for indoor projects.  One is to 
wrap the LifeSling bag in Sunbrella before the bag disintegrates.

Any advice on an adhesive?

--
Joel
301 541 8551


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Small lead weight "sewn" into anchor rode?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
On both of my old anchor rodes, there is a small (6 oz or so) lead weight with 
a line through the middle, with the line on both ends woven into the rode so 
that the weight stays held up against the line in place.  On one line, the 
weight is about 10 feet from the end connected to the chain.  On the other one, 
it is more like 20 feet.
What would be the purpose of these small weights?
Thanks for the insight, Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

That’s the one I got. Works great! And I didn’t get to choose where the third 
fastener goes. Good deal.

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jerome 
Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 5, 2018 7:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber 
Subject: Re: Stus-List wrapping life sling

 



  

 



Sunbrella lifesling covers


Any color, fits over existing bag to match your existing canvas.




 

 DETAILS

 

 

 



 

Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 5, 2018, at 6:53 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  > wrote:

Buy sunbrella and then make a bag. easy to do.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Thanks for the additional info.
All the best,
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:52 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gary.
>
> When monkeying with the steering cables keep and eye out for fish hooks.
> If you find any then it is time for a replacement.  I'm happy to discuss
> this further if desired under a different subject line.
>
> There is also a good chance that the sheeves at the bottom of the pedistal
> are in need of replacement.  The plate to which theycare mounted is carbon
> steel and after 30 years mine was in bad need of replacement.  Major areas
> had rusted away and I think this was contributing to slop, noise, and
> misalignment in the cables for the steering system.  Good news, edson
> doesn't make these components the same way anymore.  They use bronze now
> instead.  Bad news, the new ones are supposed to be like for like but
> absolutely are not.  Working with edson they think that they sold me the
> very last carbon steel plate which they used to remount my old sheeves.
> They were extremely knowledgeable and helpful and didn't charge
> rediculously for their services.  I kept the old carbon steel plate it
> anybody could use it for designing a new plate from... Say something like
> stainless steel?
>
> IIRC Chuck did a pretty good writeup of his solution to replacing the
> sheeves on his boat with the new style from edson.  I didn't find it right
> off with google but the link below is someone else's example.
>
> https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=web=j=http://
> biankablog.blogspot.com/2010/06/replacing-edson-steering-
> idler-plate.html=2ahUKEwiw2uf4ycPYAhUC0lMKHRrhBOIQFjAMegQIBBAB=
> AOvVaw3QkwKoAJtli2e9RxQDjCLL
>
> During all of your steering and rudder work.  Consider what the
> consequences would be if any part of it failed!  I've worked diligently to
> ensure that that doesn't happen.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Jan 6, 2018 9:29 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Josh,
>>  A great description of the process.  I see some rudder inspection in
>> my future.
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:21 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Ron,
>>>
>>> I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice.
>>>
>>> The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the
>>> shaft is juat a spacer.  The weight of the rudder typically keeps the
>>> rudder down but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the
>>> bushing keeps it in place.  This also prevents creating a place for ropes
>>> and bio-fouling to get caught.
>>>
>>> Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful.  Its a bit time
>>> releasing the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and
>>> centered is also time consuming.  Not hard just time.  Be careful though
>>> when there is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the
>>> drive chain in the pedistal.  To prevent this lock the wheel.  You will
>>> also have to monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the
>>> turning sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall.  That's the trick
>>> part.
>>>
>>> The radial wheel is easy.  Its position on the shaft is adjustable so
>>> you may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when
>>> entering the radial wheel.  If they are good and need no adjustment then
>>> scribe the height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment
>>> easier during reassembly.  A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it
>>> comes right off.  Now is the time to bead blast it and paint.  I don't know
>>> why they didn't from the factory.  I found that I had insufficient washers
>>> for the nut and bolt heads.  They had been eating away at the aluminum with
>>> galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear.  Use tef-gel or marlube and
>>> consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and
>>> the aluminum wheel).
>>>
>>> Now for the real problem.  Once the wheel is off you will want to
>>> support the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on
>>> the hard.  A hydraulic jack is perfect for this.  The rudder weights 100 to
>>> 150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible.  With the
>>> load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy.  They are held by a single
>>> bolt running through the rudder shaft.  Just remove the nut and at least
>>> one should come off.  They are bronze and getting new ones machined is
>>> cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr.  I suspect that corrosion on
>>> the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed.  This may complicate
>>> removal.  PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick.
>>>
>>> TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should
>>> be pretty trouble free.  Make sure 

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary.

When monkeying with the steering cables keep and eye out for fish hooks.
If you find any then it is time for a replacement.  I'm happy to discuss
this further if desired under a different subject line.

There is also a good chance that the sheeves at the bottom of the pedistal
are in need of replacement.  The plate to which theycare mounted is carbon
steel and after 30 years mine was in bad need of replacement.  Major areas
had rusted away and I think this was contributing to slop, noise, and
misalignment in the cables for the steering system.  Good news, edson
doesn't make these components the same way anymore.  They use bronze now
instead.  Bad news, the new ones are supposed to be like for like but
absolutely are not.  Working with edson they think that they sold me the
very last carbon steel plate which they used to remount my old sheeves.
They were extremely knowledgeable and helpful and didn't charge
rediculously for their services.  I kept the old carbon steel plate it
anybody could use it for designing a new plate from... Say something like
stainless steel?

IIRC Chuck did a pretty good writeup of his solution to replacing the
sheeves on his boat with the new style from edson.  I didn't find it right
off with google but the link below is someone else's example.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t=web=j=http://biankablog.blogspot.com/2010/06/replacing-edson-steering-idler-plate.html=2ahUKEwiw2uf4ycPYAhUC0lMKHRrhBOIQFjAMegQIBBAB=AOvVaw3QkwKoAJtli2e9RxQDjCLL

During all of your steering and rudder work.  Consider what the
consequences would be if any part of it failed!  I've worked diligently to
ensure that that doesn't happen.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jan 6, 2018 9:29 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Josh,
>  A great description of the process.  I see some rudder inspection in
> my future.
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:21 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ron,
>>
>> I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice.
>>
>> The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the shaft
>> is juat a spacer.  The weight of the rudder typically keeps the rudder down
>> but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the bushing keeps
>> it in place.  This also prevents creating a place for ropes and bio-fouling
>> to get caught.
>>
>> Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful.  Its a bit time releasing
>> the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and centered
>> is also time consuming.  Not hard just time.  Be careful though when there
>> is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the drive chain
>> in the pedistal.  To prevent this lock the wheel.  You will also have to
>> monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the turning
>> sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall.  That's the trick part.
>>
>> The radial wheel is easy.  Its position on the shaft is adjustable so you
>> may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when entering
>> the radial wheel.  If they are good and need no adjustment then scribe the
>> height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment easier
>> during reassembly.  A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it comes
>> right off.  Now is the time to bead blast it and paint.  I don't know why
>> they didn't from the factory.  I found that I had insufficient washers for
>> the nut and bolt heads.  They had been eating away at the aluminum with
>> galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear.  Use tef-gel or marlube and
>> consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and
>> the aluminum wheel).
>>
>> Now for the real problem.  Once the wheel is off you will want to support
>> the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on the
>> hard.  A hydraulic jack is perfect for this.  The rudder weights 100 to
>> 150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible.  With the
>> load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy.  They are held by a single
>> bolt running through the rudder shaft.  Just remove the nut and at least
>> one should come off.  They are bronze and getting new ones machined is
>> cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr.  I suspect that corrosion on
>> the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed.  This may complicate
>> removal.  PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick.
>>
>> TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should
>> be pretty trouble free.  Make sure you look for any other cause as you
>> disassemble.  I fear that maybe the radial wheel has slipped down on top of
>> the skate wheels and is preventing them from rolling.
>>
>> If you are on the hard this is actually the best time to remove the
>> rudder and install zirc fittings so you can easily 

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Josh,
 A great description of the process.  I see some rudder inspection in
my future.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Jan 6, 2018 at 9:21 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ron,
>
> I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice.
>
> The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the shaft
> is juat a spacer.  The weight of the rudder typically keeps the rudder down
> but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the bushing keeps
> it in place.  This also prevents creating a place for ropes and bio-fouling
> to get caught.
>
> Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful.  Its a bit time releasing
> the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and centered
> is also time consuming.  Not hard just time.  Be careful though when there
> is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the drive chain
> in the pedistal.  To prevent this lock the wheel.  You will also have to
> monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the turning
> sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall.  That's the trick part.
>
> The radial wheel is easy.  Its position on the shaft is adjustable so you
> may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when entering
> the radial wheel.  If they are good and need no adjustment then scribe the
> height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment easier
> during reassembly.  A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it comes
> right off.  Now is the time to bead blast it and paint.  I don't know why
> they didn't from the factory.  I found that I had insufficient washers for
> the nut and bolt heads.  They had been eating away at the aluminum with
> galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear.  Use tef-gel or marlube and
> consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and
> the aluminum wheel).
>
> Now for the real problem.  Once the wheel is off you will want to support
> the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on the
> hard.  A hydraulic jack is perfect for this.  The rudder weights 100 to
> 150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible.  With the
> load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy.  They are held by a single
> bolt running through the rudder shaft.  Just remove the nut and at least
> one should come off.  They are bronze and getting new ones machined is
> cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr.  I suspect that corrosion on
> the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed.  This may complicate
> removal.  PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick.
>
> TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should be
> pretty trouble free.  Make sure you look for any other cause as you
> disassemble.  I fear that maybe the radial wheel has slipped down on top of
> the skate wheels and is preventing them from rolling.
>
> If you are on the hard this is actually the best time to remove the rudder
> and install zirc fittings so you can easily grease the shaft.  I use the
> same lubraplate 130AA as the Max-Prop.  If I was going to do it again I
> would install a hydraulic flex line that leads somewhere more convenient
> than the rudder shaft.  2 actually, one for the top and one near the
> bottom.  Near the bottom but consider keeping it above the water line if
> possible.
>
> Good luck.  Let us know what you find.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
> On Jan 6, 2018 8:40 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I’m wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their
>> rudder.
>>
>>
>>
>> At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a
>> through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder.  The wheels
>> ride on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3”ID
>> and 4”OD.  My wheels are frozen and do not turn.  When the rudder is
>> turned, the wheels drag on bushing and rotate it.  I’ve tried to reach in,
>> turn the wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck.  It looks like I may
>> have to remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the
>> wheels.
>>
>>
>>
>> Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be
>> issues removing it?  Does anyone know a source for skate wheels?
>>
>>
>>
>> There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and
>> the hull.  With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and
>> rotate around the rudder shaft.  I guess when the rudder lifts up, the
>> bushing provides a bearing surface.  Does this sound correct?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> *Ron*
>>
>> Ron Ricci
>>
>> S/V Patriot
>>
>> C 37+
>>
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ron,

I've had my rudder out once and had the drive wheel off at least twice.

The lower delrin bushing at the top of the rudder and bottom of the shaft
is juat a spacer.  The weight of the rudder typically keeps the rudder down
but if for some reason it were to have an upward thrust the bushing keeps
it in place.  This also prevents creating a place for ropes and bio-fouling
to get caught.

Removing the radial wheel is pretty uneventful.  Its a bit time releasing
the tension on the drive cables and getting them retensioned and centered
is also time consuming.  Not hard just time.  Be careful though when there
is no tension on the cables it is easier to slip teeth on the drive chain
in the pedistal.  To prevent this lock the wheel.  You will also have to
monkey with the cables to make sure they are returned to the turning
sheeves under the pedistal during the reinstall.  That's the trick part.

The radial wheel is easy.  Its position on the shaft is adjustable so you
may want to note how the drive cables lead - how the align when entering
the radial wheel.  If they are good and need no adjustment then scribe the
height of the radial wheel before removing it to make alignment easier
during reassembly.  A set of nuts and bolts on either side and it comes
right off.  Now is the time to bead blast it and paint.  I don't know why
they didn't from the factory.  I found that I had insufficient washers for
the nut and bolt heads.  They had been eating away at the aluminum with
galvanic corrosion and mechanical wear.  Use tef-gel or marlube and
consider a nylon washer at the pressure surface (between the SS washer and
the aluminum wheel).

Now for the real problem.  Once the wheel is off you will want to support
the weight of the rudder from above if in the water or below if on the
hard.  A hydraulic jack is perfect for this.  The rudder weights 100 to
150lbs so lifting it is possible but holding it is impossible.  With the
load off the rudder the skate wheels are easy.  They are held by a single
bolt running through the rudder shaft.  Just remove the nut and at least
one should come off.  They are bronze and getting new ones machined is
cheap if you can't find any on McMaster-Carr.  I suspect that corrosion on
the SS bolt has caused the rollers to become seazed.  This may complicate
removal.  PB Blaster, and a hammer will hopefully do the trick.

TBH I'm a little surprised that they seazed at all SS and Bronze should be
pretty trouble free.  Make sure you look for any other cause as you
disassemble.  I fear that maybe the radial wheel has slipped down on top of
the skate wheels and is preventing them from rolling.

If you are on the hard this is actually the best time to remove the rudder
and install zirc fittings so you can easily grease the shaft.  I use the
same lubraplate 130AA as the Max-Prop.  If I was going to do it again I
would install a hydraulic flex line that leads somewhere more convenient
than the rudder shaft.  2 actually, one for the top and one near the
bottom.  Near the bottom but consider keeping it above the water line if
possible.

Good luck.  Let us know what you find.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Jan 6, 2018 8:40 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I’m wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their
> rudder.
>
>
>
> At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a
> through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder.  The wheels
> ride on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3”ID
> and 4”OD.  My wheels are frozen and do not turn.  When the rudder is
> turned, the wheels drag on bushing and rotate it.  I’ve tried to reach in,
> turn the wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck.  It looks like I may
> have to remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the
> wheels.
>
>
>
> Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be
> issues removing it?  Does anyone know a source for skate wheels?
>
>
>
> There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and
> the hull.  With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and
> rotate around the rudder shaft.  I guess when the rudder lifts up, the
> bushing provides a bearing surface.  Does this sound correct?
>
> Thanks,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

The wheels on Peregrine ran on the bronze plate under the donut bushing you're 
showing. Over the years they had worn a slight dip in the plate, so I installed 
the bushing by propping up the rudder from beneath and removing the wheels and 
the bolt that holds them. All were in good condition on my boat, but I bet if 
you remove the wheels on yours, you can get the wheels turning again. Sometimes 
the stainless bushing on mine would turn a little, but a could see no harm in 
it.

Andy
Formerly of 
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jan 6, 2018, at 08:39, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I’m wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their 
> rudder. 
>  
> At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a 
> through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder.  The wheels ride 
> on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3”ID and 4”OD. 
>  My wheels are frozen and do not turn.  When the rudder is turned, the wheels 
> drag on bushing and rotate it.  I’ve tried to reach in, turn the wheels and 
> spray in a lubricate but no luck.  It looks like I may have to remove the 
> radial wheel for access and possibly replace the wheels. 
>  
> Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be issues 
> removing it?  Does anyone know a source for skate wheels?   
>  
> There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and the 
> hull.  With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and rotate 
> around the rudder shaft.  I guess when the rudder lifts up, the bushing 
> provides a bearing surface.  Does this sound correct?
> Thanks,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> 
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List East Coast weather

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Rick,

I have two turbo fan heaters in the cabin.  Not concerned about the
majority of the water system or engine except for the cockpit shower
fitting back by the helm station.  It is exposed, not protected by the
heaters and has frozen and cracked before.  The cost of replacement is
equal to the cost of gas to drive to Pensacola and back to depressure and
drain it.

In any case, the new fixture has an upgraded cover.  The old one had a
rubber flap which mildewed and shrank over time.  It was always falling
out.  The new style has a nice hinged plastic cover.  Will be an
improvement.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jan 5, 2018 at 7:54 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis;
>
>
>
> Even with the single digit air temperatures (and near zero chill factors)
> the river water here is still in the mid-40s. So your boat is sitting in a
> big warm heat sink.
>
>
>
> When I checked Imzadi, there was a very thin rime of ice over part of the
> water in the bilge, but the air temp in the boat was still above freezing.
> I wouldn’t be surprised if, thanks to the warmer water on the Gulf Coast,
> that your water system is OK.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, January 5, 2018 5:29 PM
> *To:* CnClist 
> *Cc:* Dennis C. 
> *Subject:* Stus-List East Coast weather
>
>
>
> Bitter cold in NE, cold down South, no snow in the Rockies, T-shirts in
> Alaska?  Anybody else confused?
>
>
>
> I normally just smile at the threads on hauling out and winterizing but
> this year is different.  The only thing I do to winterize Touche' is to
> depressure the pressure water system, pull out the cockpit shower to drain
> it and ensure there is some air in the spray handle.  Couldn't get over to
> Pensacola to do that.  Suspect it froze and cracked.  Ordered new one just
> in case.  :(
>
>
>
> Hope everyone fares OK in the cold.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List C 37+ Rudder Bearings

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I'm wondering if anyone else has run into any similar issues with their
rudder.  

 

At the top of the rudder shaft , just below the radial wheel there is a
through bolt with two skate wheels that support the rudder.  The wheels ride
on a flat steel donut shaped bushing which has approximately a 3"ID and
4"OD.  My wheels are frozen and do not turn.  When the rudder is turned, the
wheels drag on bushing and rotate it.  I've tried to reach in, turn the
wheels and spray in a lubricate but no luck.  It looks like I may have to
remove the radial wheel for access and possibly replace the wheels.  

 

Given the radial wheel has been in place for 25 years, could there be issues
removing it?  Does anyone know a source for skate wheels?

 

There is also a bushing (around the rudder shaft) between the rudder and the
hull.  With the boat on the hard, the bushing is free to move and rotate
around the rudder shaft.  I guess when the rudder lifts up, the bushing
provides a bearing surface.  Does this sound correct?

Thanks,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

 

 



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