Re: Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Confusing and concerning.  Whatever it is, be sure to get it sorted out.
Anything problematic with the steering can't be good.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jan 23, 2018 8:55 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
>
> I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when
> the wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and
> came back to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way,
> were talking about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After
> installing my autopilot, I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables
> set to approximately the same amount of adjustment on each side to the
> adjustment bolts through the radial drive wheel.  This required jumping the
> chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel sprocket.
>
> All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only
> to find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these
> adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to
> be relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to
> reduce the feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're
> out sailing.
>
> During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were
> a little loose, and tightened those.
>
> Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and
> the cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow
> jumping on the sprocket.
>
> Thoughts?
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"
> Madiera Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Edson wheel chain jumping links?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all, 

OK, I think I have a weird thing going here...
I have adjusted the wheel to center the turks head knot straight up when the 
wheel is centered.  I got it all nice & straight a few weeks ago, and came back 
to the boat to find it about 20 degrees off to port.  By the way, were talking 
about 20% off on the wheel, not 20% of rudder.   After installing my autopilot, 
I again adjusted it, this time getting the cables set to approximately the same 
amount of adjustment on each side to the adjustment bolts through the radial 
drive wheel.  This required jumping the chain 1 or 2 notches on the wheel 
sprocket.
All was well for a couple weeks, and behold, on Saturday I went back only to 
find the turks head knot about 20 degrees to starboard.  During these 
adjustments, I have made a point to keep the cable deflection adjusted to be 
relatively minimal (say 1/2" or so?), without getting so tight as to reduce the 
feel of the wheel.  I've notice no issues whatsoever when we're out sailing. 

During the first set of adjustments, I noticed the idler wheel bolts were a 
little loose, and tightened those.  

Considering the radial wheel bolts connect to each end of the cable, and the 
cables attach to the chain, I can only think the chain is somehow jumping on 
the sprocket.
Thoughts?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I use the term stopper as a generic for sheet stoppers, halyard stoppers, 
jammers, rope clutches, or almost any kind of mechanical cleat (except a cam 
cleat.  I call those cam cleats).  I have some really old Schaefer rope 
clutches that work just fine.  They hold 3/8” or 10mm line well, 7/16” most of 
the time too.  

 

I don’t think there is any serious concern if the sheave is slightly too large. 
 Yes, the halyard will be slightly flattened, as it will not be supported quite 
as well, but as long as the difference is only 1/8” or so, it’s not an issue.  
A serious mismatch (1/4” or more) might be cause for some concern, but it would 
be the long term damage from being repeatedly flattened and reshaped as the 
line runs over the sheave.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 21:42
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C 37+

 

Halyard stopper?  What's that?  Haha, no really what's that?  Stopper balls?  
Or jammers?

 

You're right though 3/8ths is almost too small for my winches.  So smaller is 
pretty unlikely.  But bigger might be nice, particularly if it becomes 
necessary to run the taper of a core to core eye splice.

 

The 3/8ths sta-set I have for my spin halyard is almost too small at ~5000 lbs 
break strength.  I really like to make sure my lifting rigging is sufficient 
for climbing standards.

 

I guess my question is, is there any disadvantage to running smaller line in a 
big sheave.

 

Josh 

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