Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
I used the darker of the two grey tints and there is no need to paint. You cannot see the gelcoat damage and I think the darker tint looks classy. The darker tint has minimal effect looking out from the inside of the boat but makes it very difficult to see in, unless there are lights on in the boat. Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C&C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea... > there is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now > > “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape > (and sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This > will also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond > strength will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some > professionals, silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both > compatible and tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when > you remove the ring of film.” Don Casey https://www. > sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights > > > > On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote: > > Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape? > > *From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph > *Subject:* Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. > > > My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray > paint. Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere . Anyone try this? Good > or bad idea? > > > From: Chuck Saur >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: >> Bcc: >> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400 >> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. >> Happy spring?? I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the >> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas, prior to installing, to hide the the VHB >> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white >> cabin side along those edge areas. >> >> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone >> remover and mineral spirits. I actually lost only three patches of knuckle >> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will >> make contact with the tape and/or paint. >> >> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive. Has >> anyone painted this and have advice? I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond >> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn... Thoughts? >> >> >> *Chuck Saur* >> Morning Sky >> C&C 35-3 >> >> >> > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Short section of "old style" rub rail
Hey folks, I'm trying to find a short (1') section of old-style rub rail (1972-84) for a small repair to the aft of my C&C 30. I know South Shore Yachts carries full 40' lengths, but that is way more than I need at this point. Would anyone happen to have some lying around that I could purchase, or point me in the right direction? Chris SV Seeker 1972 C&C 30 Mk1 ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
When I replaced my portlights on my 29-2, I became quite paranoid about the spray paint attacking the plexiglass and undermining its longevity. I tried looking at the technical data sheets for various paints like Krylon and found they contained chemicals that would theoretically harm the plexi. My approach instead was to use just Dow 795 for the entire job. The slightly tricky part was making 3/16”x3/16”x3/4” spacers with cured 795 to allow enough silicone between the fibreglass and plexi. The rate of expansion between the dissimilar materials being the concern, and having enough silicone thickness to accommodate that movement. I made up an mdf board shaped slightly smaller than the portlights to hold it in place while the 795 cured for 10 days or whatever it was. The mdf was wedged against the portlights against the lifelines. The 795 just appears black at the overlap and the portlights have held up for 2 years of big temperature swings in Toronto, Canada. Derek McLeod Aileron 1983 C&C 29-2 Toronto > On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph wrote: > > I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea... there > is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now > > “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape (and > sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This will > also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond strength > will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some professionals, > silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both compatible and > tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when you remove the > ring of film.” Don Casey > https://www.sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights > > > >> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote: >> >> Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape? >> >> From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List >> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: Jeremy Ralph >> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. >> >> My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray >> paint. Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere . Anyone try this? Good >> or bad idea? >> >>> From: Chuck Saur >>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>> Cc: >>> Bcc: >>> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400 >>> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. >>> Happy spring?? I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the >>> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas, prior to installing, to hide the the VHB >>> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white >>> cabin side along those edge areas. >>> >>> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone >>> remover and mineral spirits. I actually lost only three patches of knuckle >>> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will >>> make contact with the tape and/or paint. >>> >>> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive. Has >>> anyone painted this and have advice? I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond >>> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn... Thoughts? >>> >>> >>> Chuck Saur >>> Morning Sky >>> C&C 35-3 >>> >>> > > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
I have purchased, but not yet used DEI 010301 High-Temperature Silicone Coating Spray - Black based on I think the same blog post. I have the windows, tape, etc. and this is the year I will do it! On Wed, Mar 14, 2018 at 10:31 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > When I replaced my portlights on my 29-2, I became quite paranoid about > the spray paint attacking the plexiglass and undermining its longevity. I > tried looking at the technical data sheets for various paints like Krylon > and found they contained chemicals that would theoretically harm the plexi. > > My approach instead was to use just Dow 795 for the entire job. The > slightly tricky part was making 3/16”x3/16”x3/4” spacers with cured 795 to > allow enough silicone between the fibreglass and plexi. The rate of > expansion between the dissimilar materials being the concern, and having > enough silicone thickness to accommodate that movement. I made up an mdf > board shaped slightly smaller than the portlights to hold it in place while > the 795 cured for 10 days or whatever it was. The mdf was wedged against > the portlights against the lifelines. > > The 795 just appears black at the overlap and the portlights have held up > for 2 years of big temperature swings in Toronto, Canada. > > Derek McLeod > Aileron > 1983 C&C 29-2 > Toronto > > On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph wrote: > > I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea... > there is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now > > “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape > (and sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This > will also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond > strength will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some > professionals, silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both > compatible and tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when > you remove the ring of film.” Don Casey https://www. > sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights > > > > On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote: > > Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape? > > *From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph > *Subject:* Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. > > > My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray > paint. Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere . Anyone try this? Good > or bad idea? > > > From: Chuck Saur >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >> Cc: >> Bcc: >> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400 >> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. >> Happy spring?? I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the >> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas, prior to installing, to hide the the VHB >> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white >> cabin side along those edge areas. >> >> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone >> remover and mineral spirits. I actually lost only three patches of knuckle >> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will >> make contact with the tape and/or paint. >> >> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive. Has >> anyone painted this and have advice? I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond >> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn... Thoughts? >> >> >> *Chuck Saur* >> Morning Sky >> C&C 35-3 >> >> >> > > > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
I used dark tint on my windows - can't see in for the most part. But, when the sun was on the right angle I could easily see through the plexi and see where I was not very accurate with spraying the backs of the windows. In my case the fiberglass repair is a blue 2 part epoxy repair that I didn't bother to paint over so it's more visible. Don't think it's worth trying to tape off the inside and spray into the edges I missed - but a little more care on the cut out would have been prudent. If you want to test it spray some plexi then VHB tape 2 pieces together -- when you pull them apart you could gauge if there is any reduction in adhesion with your paint choice vs no tape. Mark CS30 - Prosecco On 2018-03-14 8:17 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: I used the darker of the two grey tints and there is no need to paint. You cannot see the gelcoat damage and I think the darker tint looks classy. The darker tint has minimal effect looking out from the inside of the boat but makes it very difficult to see in, unless there are lights on in the boat. Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C&C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-Listwrote: I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea... there is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape (and sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This will also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond strength will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some professionals, silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both compatible and tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when you remove the ring of film.” Don Casey https://www.sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote: Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape? From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jeremy Ralph Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray paint. Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere . Anyone try this? Good or bad idea? From: Chuck Saur To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bcc: Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400 Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again. Happy spring?? I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas, prior to installing, to hide the the VHB and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white cabin side along those edge areas. I have the window dug out,