Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.

2018-03-14 Thread Gary Russell via CnC-List
I used the darker of the two grey tints and there is no need to paint.  You
cannot see the gelcoat damage and I think the darker tint looks classy.
The darker tint has minimal effect looking out from the inside of the boat
but makes it very difficult to see in, unless there are lights on in the
boat.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea...
>  there is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now
>
> “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape
> (and sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This
> will also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond
> strength will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some
> professionals, silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both
> compatible and tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when
> you remove the ring of film.” Don Casey https://www.
> sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights
>
>
>
> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford  wrote:
>
> Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape?
>
> *From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>
>
> My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray
> paint.  Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere .  Anyone try this?  Good
> or bad idea?
>
>
> From: Chuck Saur 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>> Happy spring??  I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the
>> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas,  prior to installing, to hide the the VHB
>> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white
>> cabin side along those edge areas.
>>
>> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone
>> remover and mineral spirits.  I actually lost only three patches of knuckle
>> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will
>> make contact with the tape and/or paint.
>>
>> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive.  Has
>> anyone painted this and have advice?  I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond
>> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn...  Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>> ​Morning Sky
>> C&C 35-3
>> ​
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Short section of "old style" rub rail

2018-03-14 Thread Chris Hickey via CnC-List
Hey folks,

I'm trying to find a short (1') section of old-style rub rail (1972-84) for
a small repair to the aft of my C&C 30. I know South Shore Yachts carries
full 40' lengths, but that is way more than I need at this point. Would
anyone happen to have some lying around that I could purchase, or point me
in the right direction?

Chris
SV Seeker
1972 C&C 30 Mk1
___

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Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.

2018-03-14 Thread Derek McLeod via CnC-List
When I replaced my portlights on my 29-2, I became quite paranoid about the 
spray paint attacking the plexiglass and undermining its longevity. I tried 
looking at the technical data sheets for various paints like Krylon and found 
they contained chemicals that would theoretically harm the plexi. 

My approach instead was to use just Dow 795 for the entire job. The slightly 
tricky part was making 3/16”x3/16”x3/4” spacers with cured 795 to allow enough 
silicone between the fibreglass and plexi. The rate of expansion between the 
dissimilar materials being the concern, and having enough silicone thickness to 
accommodate that movement. I made up an mdf board shaped slightly smaller than 
the portlights to hold it in place while the 795 cured for 10 days or whatever 
it was. The mdf was wedged against the portlights against the lifelines. 

The 795 just appears black at the overlap and the portlights have held up for 2 
years of big temperature swings in Toronto, Canada. 

Derek McLeod
Aileron 
1983 C&C 29-2
Toronto

> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph  wrote:
> 
> I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea...  there 
> is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now
> 
> “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape (and 
> sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This will 
> also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond strength 
> will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some professionals, 
> silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both compatible and 
> tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when you remove the 
> ring of film.” Don Casey 
> https://www.sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford  wrote:
>> 
>> Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape?
>>  
>> From: Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Jeremy Ralph
>> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>>  
>> My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray 
>> paint.  Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere .  Anyone try this?  Good 
>> or bad idea?
>> 
>>> From: Chuck Saur 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: 
>>> Bcc: 
>>> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400
>>> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>>> Happy spring??  I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the 
>>> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas,  prior to installing, to hide the the VHB 
>>> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white 
>>> cabin side along those edge areas.
>>>  
>>> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone 
>>> remover and mineral spirits.  I actually lost only three patches of knuckle 
>>> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will 
>>> make contact with the tape and/or paint.
>>>  
>>> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive.  Has 
>>> anyone painted this and have advice?  I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond 
>>> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn...  Thoughts?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Chuck Saur
>>> ​Morning Sky
>>> C&C 35-3
>>> ​
>>>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.

2018-03-14 Thread Eric Baumes via CnC-List
I have purchased, but not yet used DEI 010301 High-Temperature Silicone
Coating Spray - Black based on I think the same blog post. I have the
windows, tape, etc. and this is the year I will do it!


On Wed, Mar 14, 2018 at 10:31 AM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I replaced my portlights on my 29-2, I became quite paranoid about
> the spray paint attacking the plexiglass and undermining its longevity. I
> tried looking at the technical data sheets for various paints like Krylon
> and found they contained chemicals that would theoretically harm the plexi.
>
> My approach instead was to use just Dow 795 for the entire job. The
> slightly tricky part was making 3/16”x3/16”x3/4” spacers with cured 795 to
> allow enough silicone between the fibreglass and plexi. The rate of
> expansion between the dissimilar materials being the concern, and having
> enough silicone thickness to accommodate that movement. I made up an mdf
> board shaped slightly smaller than the portlights to hold it in place while
> the 795 cured for 10 days or whatever it was. The mdf was wedged against
> the portlights against the lifelines.
>
> The 795 just appears black at the overlap and the portlights have held up
> for 2 years of big temperature swings in Toronto, Canada.
>
> Derek McLeod
> Aileron
> 1983 C&C 29-2
> Toronto
>
> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:45 PM, Jeremy Ralph  wrote:
>
> I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here is where I got the idea...
>  there is another thread somewhere about it too but can’t find it now
>
> “If the color of your plastic is not dark enough to hide the grey tape
> (and sealant), you may want to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This
> will also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but the bond
> strength will depend on the paint adhesion. According to some
> professionals, silicone-based, high-temperature exhaust paint is both
> compatible and tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed when
> you remove the ring of film.” Don Casey https://www.
> sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights
>
>
>
> On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM, Matthew L. Wolford  wrote:
>
> Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M tape?
>
> *From:* Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 13, 2018 12:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Jeremy Ralph 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>
>
> My plan is to paint the acrylic underside with VHT Silicone header spray
> paint.  Saw this recommended on a forum somewhere .  Anyone try this?  Good
> or bad idea?
>
>
> From: Chuck Saur 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.
>> Happy spring??  I recall someone commented on priming and/or painting the
>> smoke-tint plexiglass edge areas,  prior to installing, to hide the the VHB
>> and Dow 795, so all does not show through the smoke plexi against the white
>> cabin side along those edge areas.
>>
>> I have the window dug out, whew, and cleaned up with Mechanica silicone
>> remover and mineral spirits.  I actually lost only three patches of knuckle
>> skin. I have also sanded the receiving perimeter of the plexi where it will
>> make contact with the tape and/or paint.
>>
>> I could not find the mention of the painting step in the archive.  Has
>> anyone painted this and have advice?  I purchased a can of Krylon High-bond
>> plastic paint in flat black. It's waiting in the barn...  Thoughts?
>>
>>
>> *Chuck Saur*
>> ​Morning Sky
>> C&C 35-3
>> ​
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



Re: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi windows...again.

2018-03-14 Thread M Bodnar via CnC-List

  
  


I used dark tint on my windows - can't see in for the most part. 
  But, when the sun was on the right angle I could easily see
  through the plexi and see where I was not very accurate with
  spraying the backs of the windows.

In my case the fiberglass repair is a blue 2 part epoxy repair
  that I didn't bother to paint over so it's more visible.
Don't think it's worth trying to tape off the inside and spray
  into the edges I missed - but a little more care on the cut out
  would have been prudent.
If you want to test it spray some plexi then VHB tape  2 pieces
  together -- when you pull them apart you could gauge if there is
  any reduction in adhesion with your paint choice vs no tape.


Mark
CS30 - Prosecco






On 2018-03-14 8:17 AM, Gary Russell via
  CnC-List wrote:


  I used the darker of the two grey tints and there
is no need to paint.  You cannot see the gelcoat damage and I
think the darker tint looks classy.  The darker tint has minimal
effect looking out from the inside of the boat but makes it very
difficult to see in, unless there are lights on in the boat.


Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA
  
  

  ~~~_/)~~
  



On Tue, Mar 13, 2018 at 10:45 PM,
  Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
  I hope it doesn’t undermine the VHB. Here
is where I got the idea...  there is another thread
somewhere about it too but can’t find it now
  
  
  “If the color of your plastic is not dark
enough to hide the grey tape (and sealant), you may want
to paint the inside perimeter of the pane. This will
also protect the adhesives from potential UV attack, but
the bond strength will depend on the paint adhesion.
According to some professionals, silicone-based,
high-temperature exhaust paint is both compatible and
tenacious. The area to be painted is the area exposed
when you remove the ring of film.” Don Casey https://www.sailmagazine.com/.amp/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights

  
  
  
  
  

  On Mar 13, 2018, at 10:42 AM,
Matthew L. Wolford 
wrote:

  


  

  Won’t that undermine the bond with the 3M
tape?
  

   
  
From: Jeremy
Ralph via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2018
  12:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeremy
Ralph
Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling
  plexi windows...again.
  

 
  
  
My plan is to
paint the acrylic underside with VHT
Silicone header spray paint.  Saw this
recommended on a forum somewhere .  Anyone
try this?  Good or bad idea?

  

  From:
Chuck Saur 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2018 10:00:35 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Reinstalling plexi
windows...again.

  Happy spring?? 
I recall someone commented on priming
and/or painting the smoke-tint
plexiglass edge areas,  prior to
installing, to hide the the VHB and Dow
795, so all does not show through the
smoke plexi against the white cabin side
along those edge areas.
   
  I have the
window dug out,