Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Bill,

How did you get the unit apart? I took off the plate on top with the two screws.
Didn’t do much.
I tried unscrewing it but reached a point where I didn’t want to break it.
What’s the secret?

Tomorrow I was going to either manhandle it until it breaks or unscrews, then 
replace with whatever they have locally or just change the bulb for an LED.
 
And I am confused now, isn’t an anchor light just white. 360 degrees. What’s 
with the tricolor variety?

I left my Davis on and someone stomped it so I upgraded the LED when I got the 
new Davis from Defender. The old one had the lens separated from the base, I 
don’t know if it was from impact or just age.

Thanks Matt

> On May 7, 2018, at 2:44 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I wish this had all happened several hours ago, Just this morning I ordered 
> all the stuff I had on my screen from Defender, including a replacement 
> Series 40 stack AquaSignal Lens, because the old one was so crazed.
> Then I ordered the tri light from marinebeam, and the anchor light, the link 
> to that is
>  
> https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/
>  
> 
>  
> Matt, if you just replace the anchor light, this is probably the one.
> But, Now I am thinking of this SignalMate of Francois, it looks really nice. 
> Would also eliminate the Davis Windex light I just ordered.
> But, I see it is still polycarbonate, so I am guessing it will craze as well. 
>  But I will probably be dead by then, so I guess it doesn’t matter. . . 
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew 
> Schlanger via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 1:35 PM
> To: Francois Rivard
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light
>  
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the 
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
>  
> Matt
>  
>> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard > > wrote:
>>  
>> Hi Matt, 
>>  
>> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
>> crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw 
>> it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
>> (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
>>  
>> )
>>  
>> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, 
>> the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is 
>> nice and thick.  
>>  
>> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
>> forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
>> maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light 
>> on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
>>  
>> Good luck with the project. 
>>  
>> Best Regards, 
>>  
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
>>  
>>  
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

I am near Baltimore and as I stated earlier,  "I get 35 channels with a leaf 
antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just when the comedian 
says the punchline.  Can be frustrating."  I was wondering if a mast mounted TV 
antenna was worth the trouble.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

> On May 7, 2018 at 10:11 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Chuck,
> 
> Maybe it’s because we are so close to NYC, but I know a few people who 
> have those $20-$30 HDTV antennas that stick to a hatch. They work well for 
> them. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New Yorkhttp://www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I 
> should pull in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  I 
> get 35 channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes 
> pixelates just when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 


 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Chuck,

Maybe it’s because we are so close to NYC, but I know a few people who have 
those $20-$30 HDTV antennas that stick to a hatch. They work well for them. 

All the best, 

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

Hey guys,



I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I should pull 
in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  I get 35 
channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just 
when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009&Product_ID=10005&FriendlyID=Mk-5-Universal

My solution to the corroded Whale pump.  Been working well for about 4 
years now.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 5/7/2018 2:06 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:

Corrosion is precisely the reason my Whale manual bilge pump is working so 
poorly.  In the 9 years I have owned Cats Paw, I have replaced the rubber 
flapper valves 3 times - most recently last year.  But this no longer solves 
the corrosion problem of the metal pump, which keeps the flapper valves from 
closing well.  I also installed a one-way rubber flap valve on the intake of 
the hose to facilitate priming the pump, but that has been insufficient to 
solve the problem caused by corrosion of the pump itself.

A similar pump (also a Whale I think) continues to work well.  One reason is 
that the pump (under the washstand) is not located above the holding tank, but 
from Dennis’s description, it probably also helps that we use “fresh” water 
from the water tank to flush the head, so salt water never remains in the pump. 
 And, of course, most of our sailing is not far offshore, so the holding tank 
is pumped out by the boatyard launch.

Are there other brands of manual pumps I could replace the Whale pump with that 
do not have this problem? Perhaps made of a corrosion-resistant material? That 
might be a better, and more permanent solution.

Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw, CC35 II
Mattapoisett, MA


Hot button rant!

If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge
pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing
surfaces.  These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water
service, are subject to corrosion and pitting.  If the corrosion is severe,
the pump may not prime or pump.

When I bought Touche', I inspected the pump and found it to be essentially
unusable due to severe pitting and corrosion on the sealing surfaces.  A
service kit would have been worthless.  I bought a new pump.  Before
installing the new pump, I disassembled it, coated the sealing surfaces
with TefGel and reassembled.

Kevin Benoit just bought a 35-2 and ran into the same issue.  He also
bought a new pump and coated the surfaces.

I clean Touche's bilge about twice a year.  I use the electric pump to
empty the bilge until the water is clean dock (city) water.  I then test
the manual bilge pump and use it to empty the bilge leaving clean dock
water in the pump.

If, for whatever reason, I use the manual pump to remove brackish or salt
water from the bilge, I flush the bilge with dock water and leave dock
water in the manual pump.

Please test your manual pump at least annually and inspect it if you've
never done so.  This pump may not only save your boat, it may save you and
your family!!

Dennis C.

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Stus-List TV antenna

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hey guys,


I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I should pull 
in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  I get 35 
channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just 
when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md___

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Responding late to the discussion. My mast is out so I am replacing all the 
light fixtures and wiring and selected MarineBeam's Anchor 
Light/tri-color/Strobe Combo that works with two wires. 
https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-light-and-strobe-n3-tri-cmb/
I tested the light and it is very very bright and works just like they claim 
and the strobe flashes S-O-S. Lots of features for $109 and it seems very well 
made. We'll see how it holds up.

Replaced the VHF antenna wire too.


> On May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at 
> the last minute I started thinking just change it out.
> 
> Matt
> 
> 
> > > On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard 
> mailto:jeanfrancoisriv...@gmail.com > wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Matt, 
> > 
> > When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up 
> > housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit 
> > and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
> > (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/)
> > 
> > They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely 
> > sealed, the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the 
> > lens is nice and thick.  
> > 
> > It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely 
> > "install it and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down 
> > very often so no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the 
> > brightest mast light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against 
> > drunken pontoon pilots.  
> > 
> > Good luck with the project. 
> > 
> > Best Regards, 
> > 
> > -Francois Rivard
> > 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> > Lake Lanier, GA
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Stus-List Toerail rebedding

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

Hi All,

On my C&C 29 mk II, I believe I'm getting leaks from the toerail holes.
Have any of you performed rebedding? Looking for any advise you might have.

 I found this article http://www.islander36.org/toerails.html on rebedding
and am wondering if the process would be the same on my boat. Some of the
things he does that I didn't think about is driving temporary screws
through the deck-hull joint to make sure the deck doesn't pop off. I
believe the bedding compound on the deck hull joint is still good, so I
believe all I need to do is remove the toe rail, clean it up and then
rebed. I'm not sure if I should use 5200 or butyl tape. Thoughts?

Thanks,

Gene Fodor
"Hawk" -- C&C 29 mk II
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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Mike,

The story began with a small crack at the top aft of the sump, in front of the 
aft keel bolt, on which the wascher and nut was also sinking a bit. I starded 
grinding the area . I ended up grinding the gel coat around the sump and then 
yes, I added layers of 1708 cloth with epoxy.

The best job would have been to drop the keel and add multiple layers from one 
side to the others covering the bottom. What I did was less labor intensive. 
After sanding I added layers to the sump going from maybe 6-8 inches on each 
side of the sump ( flat secto the bottom of the walls. I also strengthened the 
stringers in this area alternating my layers to better spread the loads. The 
stringer that bridges the sump was very thin.

It is a bit hard to describe, hope you get the idea.

The mast step is next job on the list. Next fall. Will do it like another 
lister did on his 33. Can’t remember the name right now.

Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Crombie via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 1:47:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Crombie
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Hi Ray,

I had the same problem with my 33.  I think it was due to 2 issues...1. The PO 
had a hard grounding at some point  and 2 the 33 mkii mast steps need to be 
strengthened. My mast was compressing the step.

Your description matches mine exactly...water seeping in the side walls of the 
bilge.

Anyway, i was able to sail for a season, but at the end of the season I sailed 
straight over to a good yard. They rebuilt the mast step,  dropped the keel, 
and did some other repairs. This was $$.  After the job i still had a tiny bit 
of ingress, but i sanded all around where the repair work was done, barrier 
coated it and now have a dry bilge.

Bruno has got me thinking about strenghening the bilge.  How did you do this 
Bruno?  Did you you lay down a few layers of glass cloth?

Mike


On Mon, May 7, 2018, 9:33 AM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Yes I put a new one on that was LED. I agree.

Thanks

> On May 7, 2018, at 1:53 PM, Francois Rivard  
> wrote:
> 
> I understand.  
> 
> Another thing I forgot to mention is the built-in Windex light.  If you sail 
> at night it's really nice to have.  
> 
> Decisions, Decisions... 
> 
> I hope it works out to your liking!
> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM, Matthew Schlanger  > wrote:
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the 
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
> 
> Matt
> 
>> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard > > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Matt, 
>> 
>> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
>> crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw 
>> it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
>> (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
>>  
>> )
>> 
>> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, 
>> the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is 
>> nice and thick.  
>> 
>> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
>> forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
>> maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light 
>> on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
>> 
>> Good luck with the project. 
>> 
>> Best Regards, 
>> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
>> 
>> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I wish this had all happened several hours ago, Just this morning I ordered
all the stuff I had on my screen from Defender, including a replacement
Series 40 stack AquaSignal Lens, because the old one was so crazed.

Then I ordered the tri light from marinebeam, and the anchor light, the link
to that is

 

https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-ser
ies-40-50-55/

 

Matt, if you just replace the anchor light, this is probably the one.

But, Now I am thinking of this SignalMate of Francois, it looks really nice.
Would also eliminate the Davis Windex light I just ordered.

But, I see it is still polycarbonate, so I am guessing it will craze as
well.  But I will probably be dead by then, so I guess it doesn't matter. .
. 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew
Schlanger via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 1:35 PM
To: Francois Rivard
Cc: Matthew Schlanger; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

 

Thanks.

Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the
last minute I started thinking just change it out.

 

Matt

 

On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard 
wrote:

 

Hi Matt, 

 

When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing,
crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw
it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor
(https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-a
nchor-2-wire/)

 

They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed,
the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is
nice and thick.  

 

It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and
forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no
maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light
on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  

 

Good luck with the project. 

 

Best Regards, 

 

-Francois Rivard

1990 34+ "Take Five"

Lake Lanier, GA

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Corrosion is precisely the reason my Whale manual bilge pump is working so 
poorly.  In the 9 years I have owned Cats Paw, I have replaced the rubber 
flapper valves 3 times - most recently last year.  But this no longer solves 
the corrosion problem of the metal pump, which keeps the flapper valves from 
closing well.  I also installed a one-way rubber flap valve on the intake of 
the hose to facilitate priming the pump, but that has been insufficient to 
solve the problem caused by corrosion of the pump itself.

A similar pump (also a Whale I think) continues to work well.  One reason is 
that the pump (under the washstand) is not located above the holding tank, but 
from Dennis’s description, it probably also helps that we use “fresh” water 
from the water tank to flush the head, so salt water never remains in the pump. 
 And, of course, most of our sailing is not far offshore, so the holding tank 
is pumped out by the boatyard launch.

Are there other brands of manual pumps I could replace the Whale pump with that 
do not have this problem? Perhaps made of a corrosion-resistant material? That 
might be a better, and more permanent solution.

Eric Frank
Cat’s Paw, CC35 II
Mattapoisett, MA

> Hot button rant!
> 
> If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge
> pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing
> surfaces.  These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water
> service, are subject to corrosion and pitting.  If the corrosion is severe,
> the pump may not prime or pump.
> 
> When I bought Touche', I inspected the pump and found it to be essentially
> unusable due to severe pitting and corrosion on the sealing surfaces.  A
> service kit would have been worthless.  I bought a new pump.  Before
> installing the new pump, I disassembled it, coated the sealing surfaces
> with TefGel and reassembled.
> 
> Kevin Benoit just bought a 35-2 and ran into the same issue.  He also
> bought a new pump and coated the surfaces.
> 
> I clean Touche's bilge about twice a year.  I use the electric pump to
> empty the bilge until the water is clean dock (city) water.  I then test
> the manual bilge pump and use it to empty the bilge leaving clean dock
> water in the pump.
> 
> If, for whatever reason, I use the manual pump to remove brackish or salt
> water from the bilge, I flush the bilge with dock water and leave dock
> water in the manual pump.
> 
> Please test your manual pump at least annually and inspect it if you've
> never done so.  This pump may not only save your boat, it may save you and
> your family!!
> 
> Dennis C.

___

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

I understand.

Another thing I forgot to mention is the built-in Windex light.  If you
sail at night it's really nice to have.

Decisions, Decisions...

I hope it works out to your liking!

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA


On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM, Matthew Schlanger 
wrote:

> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
>
> Matt
>
> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Matt,
>
> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up
> housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit
> and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor (
> https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-
> anchor-2-wire/)
>
> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely
> sealed, the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the
> lens is nice and thick.
>
> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it
> and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so
> no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast
> light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon
> pilots.
>
> Good luck with the project.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Matt,
 
I would 2nd the recommendation on Marinebeam.  They will have both the LED 
replacement bulb you would need or a new fixture.  My fixture was in pretty 
good shape so I bought the bulb last year.  I don't generally spend much time 
at anchor so I can't say it got a workout, but it always tests fine.
 
Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about 
anchor light
From: "Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List" 
Date: 5/7/18 10:34 am
To: "Francois Rivard" 
Cc: "Matthew Schlanger" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Thanks. Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at 
the last minute I started thinking just change it out.
 
Matt

On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard  
wrote:

  Hi Matt,   
When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw it 
in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
(https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/)
 
They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, the 
machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is nice and 
thick.  
 
It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light on 
the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
 
Good luck with the project. 
 
Best Regards, 
 
-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
 
 


 


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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Ray,

I had the same problem with my 33.  I think it was due to 2 issues...1. The
PO had a hard grounding at some point  and 2 the 33 mkii mast steps need to
be strengthened. My mast was compressing the step.

Your description matches mine exactly...water seeping in the side walls of
the bilge.

Anyway, i was able to sail for a season, but at the end of the season I
sailed straight over to a good yard. They rebuilt the mast step,  dropped
the keel, and did some other repairs. This was $$.  After the job i still
had a tiny bit of ingress, but i sanded all around where the repair work
was done, barrier coated it and now have a dry bilge.

Bruno has got me thinking about strenghening the bilge.  How did you do
this Bruno?  Did you you lay down a few layers of glass cloth?

Mike


On Mon, May 7, 2018, 9:33 AM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello:
>
> It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue
> since I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I
> took a close look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls
> of the bilge. Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I
> saw no issues, no smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very
> bottom of the keel.  Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I
> cannot do much inspection prior.  This time I happen to see it while on
> the lift.  I was not a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was
> not good at all. Does that sound right.  I see now water coming from any
> other area.  Anybody have an recommendations on what to do?
>
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee WI.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thanks.
Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the last 
minute I started thinking just change it out.

Matt

> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Matt, 
> 
> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
> crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw 
> it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
> (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
>  
> )
> 
> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, 
> the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is nice 
> and thick.  
> 
> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
> forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
> maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light on 
> the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
> 
> Good luck with the project. 
> 
> Best Regards, 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

If you saw that the tip of the keel, the bottom was rough and not looking good, 
it sounds like a case of grounding = damaged fiberglass sump.

Of course the water can not travel into the lead part of the keel.

If you can see the water coming in trough the laminate, it is coming from 
outside. If it comes from the hollow stringers, look for leaks from other 
sources as well as suggested by others.

The good news is that the 33 mk ii has no balsa core in that area, so fairly 
simple to repair. A friend of my who has a 35 mkiii had a small leak in the 
sump via a small crack. He then found upon inspection that the cored hull 
around the keel was saturated with water. Very extensive and expensive repair 
to rebuild the whole area.

Bruno

Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 12:10:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

The bottom of the keel should be all lead and will have nothing to do with 
water entering the bilge.  Sounds like you may have a leak that’s running into 
the bilge from somewhere else.  Suggest checking all thru-hull fittings, hoses, 
clamps, etc.

From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Raymond Macklin
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.


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Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Matt,

When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up
housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit
and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor (
https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
)

They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed,
the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is
nice and thick.

It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it
and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so
no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast
light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon
pilots.

Good luck with the project.

Best Regards,

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Greg Alimenti via CnC-List]

Check the packing nut gland on the propeller shaft stuffing box.  It may just 
need to be tightened. Tighten to where it just stops dripping or you see a slow 
drip while shaft turning.  Too tight and you could score the shaft.  This is 
usually my post splash surprise.

Greg Alimenti
St. Joseph, MI

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 12:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

The bottom of the keel should be all lead and will have nothing to do with 
water entering the bilge.  Sounds like you may have a leak that’s running into 
the bilge from somewhere else.  Suggest checking all thru-hull fittings, hoses, 
clamps, etc.

From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Raymond Macklin
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

The bottom of the keel should be all lead and will have nothing to do with 
water entering the bilge.  Sounds like you may have a leak that’s running into 
the bilge from somewhere else.  Suggest checking all thru-hull fittings, hoses, 
clamps, etc.

From: Raymond Macklin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 9:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Raymond Macklin 
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.



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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Matthew — I replaced my ancient (and ineffective) anchor light and separate 
tricolor last year with one of these:

https://store.marinebeam.com/led-tri-color-and-all-around-anchor-navigation-stack-light-n4-tri-124/
 


The MarineBeam gear is well-built, and performs very well, generally exceeding 
USCG requirements for visibility and color.  Given the propensity of 
festoon-type lamps to be a bit loose, I’d say replace the whole darn thing and 
be done with it.  You should be able to reuse the existing wiring, unless it’s 
badly corroded; on our older boats, C&C did NOT use tinned wire, and much of 
the old lamp-cord wiring in our old masts was not good to begin with, and has 
definitely not aged well…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 7, 2018, at 10:38 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor 
> light to an LED.
> On my C&C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
> First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the thing.
> Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what LED 
> units to use?
> The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I want 
> to go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long shipment.
> 
> Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does 
> anyone have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?
> 
> The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on the 
> hook with an LED.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C&C 35 Mk3
> South Nyack, NY
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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Wolford via CnC-List]

I like my Hella.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2018, at 11:38 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor 
> light to an LED.
> On my C&C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
> First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the thing.
> Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what LED 
> units to use?
> The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I want 
> to go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long shipment.
> 
> Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does 
> anyone have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?
> 
> The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on the 
> hook with an LED.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C&C 35 Mk3
> South Nyack, NY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Marinebeam.com

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 7, 2018, at 10:38 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor 
> light to an LED.
> On my C&C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
> First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the thing.
> Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what LED 
> units to use?
> The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I want 
> to go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long shipment.
> 
> Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does 
> anyone have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?
> 
> The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on the 
> hook with an LED.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C&C 35 Mk3
> South Nyack, NY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Matt,

Are there 2 screws in the top?

Look at this option:

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=dr.-led-white-polar-star-40-navigation-led-replacement-bulb&path=-1|65136|2312550|2312566|2312568&id=1200640

Joel

On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 11:38 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor
> light to an LED.
> On my C&C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
> First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the
> thing.
> Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what
> LED units to use?
> The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I
> want to go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long
> shipment.
>
> Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does
> anyone have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?
>
> The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on
> the hook with an LED.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C&C 35 Mk3
> South Nyack, NY
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor light 
to an LED.
On my C&C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the thing.
Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what LED 
units to use?
The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I want to 
go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long shipment.

Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does anyone 
have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?

The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on the 
hook with an LED.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C&C 35 Mk3
South Nyack, NY


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Re: Stus-List Sealing Chainplates

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Unfortunately no, but I still could :)

Cheers,
Randy

> On May 6, 2018, at 3:57 AM, Chuck S  wrote:
> 
> Love the before photos. Did you take any of the fix?
> 
>> On May 5, 2018 at 11:30 AM Randy Stafford via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Same.  The deck on my 1972 30 MK I is cored.  The offseason before last I 
>> removed the chainplates, dug out a good half-inch of core around the cutout, 
>> and refilled with epoxy with the chainplate in place, making a tight-fitting 
>> epoxy “donut” around the cutout and chainplate (of course I used a releasing 
>> agent - carmex - so the epoxy wasn’t stuck to the chainplate).  That was all 
>> on the advice of Mr. Dennis Cheuvront.  Then I resealed them per Don Casey’s 
>> instructions.  Pictures at 
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTcTV6UlEwMmlqZkk 
>> .
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Randy Stafford
>> S/V Grenadine
>> C&C 30-1 #7
>> Ken Caryl, CO
>> 
>>> On May 5, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> As a data point for others, the chainplate cut-out on my 1982 37’ goes 
>>> through cored deck. Josh’s concern is correctly placed.
>>> 
>>> Best,
>>> Dave Godwin
>>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>> 
 On May 5, 2018, at 10:44 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 
 I think the most correct way is to remove the chain plate and then rebed.  
 I'd be torn between using butyl and 4200.  You can support the mast with a 
 halyard if desired.
 
 First, you might find is useful to determine if it is the machine 
 screws/bolts or the flange specifically.  A little tightening of the bolt, 
 a small addition of 4200, a wrap of butyl, or some Capt Tully's Creeping 
 Crack cure may be enough if it is just a loose bolt.  You should also 
 figure out if the deck area is cored.  If not cored the leak will be 
 rather innocuous for quite some time - go sailing.
 
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk 
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 
>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
>  

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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Don’t forget plumbing leaks from the fresh water system’s tanks, hoses or 
pumps; this includes the pressure relief valve on the water heater, and any 
hoses that may have been removed for winterizing.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On May 7, 2018, at 9:18 AM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> If you mean you have water seeping trough the laminate of the GRP keel sump 
> area « wall » port or starboard, that means you have crack in the laminate, 
> due to an impact or « fatigue ». This is bad and the boat should be hauled 
> out for inspection and repair. On my 87 33 I found these sump walls were ok, 
> but a bit thin to my liking, so I added some thickness from inside, 
> reinforcing the shoulders of the sump too.
> 
> 
> If the water comes from aft of the sump or the front, you have a crack too, 
> but less stressful from  a safety standpoint.
> 
> Aft, the water may come from aft keel bolt, embedded in putty, with a 1/2 ply 
> to form the sump area. This can suck water from a leak, fracture, rot and 
> eventually water ends into the bilge.
> I had this problem and made the repair and decided to go a bit further 
> reinforcing the whole sump.
> 
> Front of the sump, same issue: keel bolt leak, rotted putty and the plywood, 
> forward « wall » of the sump. plus the water from the mast.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Bruno
> Bécassine, 87 33 mkii
> New Richmond, qc.
> 
> 
> Obtenez Outlook pour iOS 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of robert via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 9:51:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue
>  
> Ray,
> Don't quite understand when you say " water is seeping in from the walls of 
> the bilge."  Are you sure the water is not coming from around the keel bolts?
> 
> There is no way water is coming in from the bottom of the keelwhile your 
> boat is on the lift, that would be the time to clean it and paint with 
> antifouling.
> 
> If there is that much water coming into the bilge, you have to find out where 
> it is coming from and address it.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.  
> 
> On 2018-05-07 10:32 AM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
>> Hello:
>> 
>> It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue 
>> since I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took 
>> a close look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the 
>> bilge. Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no 
>> issues, no smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom 
>> of the keel.  Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do 
>> much inspection prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I 
>> was not a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at 
>> all. Does that sound right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  
>> Anybody have an recommendations on what to do?
>> 
>> Ray
>> LakeHouse
>> Milwaukee WI.
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 148, Issue 29

[Daniel Sheer via CnC-List]

Date: Mon, 7 May 2018 08:32:48 -0500
Ray,

Had a similar issue with my LF38. My mechanic found a leak originating outside 
just above the keel joint and then through to the bottom of the bilge just aft 
of the keel. We identified it by water dripping out and leaving marks over the 
winter. My bilge pumps had been running - not constantly, but frequently. He 
thinks it was the long term result of a blister. He drilled and ground it out 
till he found dry material, then filled it with glass and resin. I put on 
barrier coat and paint. It is now dry.

This is somewhat different from "seeping through the walls of the bilge, as 
there were identifiable entry and exit points, but I hope it helps. If there is 
a lot of water coming in, then when you pull the boat and fill the bilge with 
water, you should see it coming out.

Dan Sheer
Pegathy LF 38
Rock Creek off the Patapsco

From: Raymond Macklin To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue
since I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I
took a close look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls
of the bilge. Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I
saw no issues, no smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very
bottom of the keel.  Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I
cannot do much inspection prior.  This time I happen to see it while on
the lift.  I was not a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was
not good at all. Does that sound right.  I see now water coming from any
other area.  Anybody have an recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

If you mean you have water seeping trough the laminate of the GRP keel sump 
area « wall » port or starboard, that means you have crack in the laminate, due 
to an impact or « fatigue ». This is bad and the boat should be hauled out for 
inspection and repair. On my 87 33 I found these sump walls were ok, but a bit 
thin to my liking, so I added some thickness from inside, reinforcing the 
shoulders of the sump too.


If the water comes from aft of the sump or the front, you have a crack too, but 
less stressful from  a safety standpoint.

Aft, the water may come from aft keel bolt, embedded in putty, with a 1/2 ply 
to form the sump area. This can suck water from a leak, fracture, rot and 
eventually water ends into the bilge.
I had this problem and made the repair and decided to go a bit further 
reinforcing the whole sump.

Front of the sump, same issue: keel bolt leak, rotted putty and the plywood, 
forward « wall » of the sump. plus the water from the mast.

Good luck.

Bruno
Bécassine, 87 33 mkii
New Richmond, qc.


Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 9:51:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Ray,
Don't quite understand when you say " water is seeping in from the walls of the 
bilge."  Are you sure the water is not coming from around the keel bolts?

There is no way water is coming in from the bottom of the keelwhile your 
boat is on the lift, that would be the time to clean it and paint with 
antifouling.

If there is that much water coming into the bilge, you have to find out where 
it is coming from and address it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-05-07 10:32 AM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:
Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.



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Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[robert via CnC-List]

Ray,
Don't quite understand when you say " water is seeping in from the walls 
of the bilge."  Are you sure the water is not coming from around the 
keel bolts?


There is no way water is coming in from the bottom of the keelwhile 
your boat is on the lift, that would be the time to clean it and paint 
with antifouling.


If there is that much water coming into the bilge, you have to find out 
where it is coming from and address it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2018-05-07 10:32 AM, Raymond Macklin via CnC-List wrote:

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an 
issue since I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running 
continuously.  I took a close look and I am noticing the water is 
seeping in from the walls of the bilge. Prior to launching I took a 
real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no smile, nothing.  The 
only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  Since the 
keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not 
a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at 
all. Does that sound right.  I see now water coming from any other 
area.  Anybody have an recommendations on what to do?


Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.


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Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Ray,

 

If the water was coming in from the keel, you’d see if coming around one or 
more keel bolts.  I don’t exactly understand what you meant by “walls of the 
bilge” but I check all hull fittings including your depth sounder and speed 
sensor.

 

Ron  

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Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue
since I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I
took a close look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls
of the bilge. Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I
saw no issues, no smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very
bottom of the keel.  Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I
cannot do much inspection prior.  This time I happen to see it while on
the lift.  I was not a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was
not good at all. Does that sound right.  I see now water coming from any
other area.  Anybody have an recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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Stus-List Cowl vent

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Our cowl vents are rather tired (Nicro  low profile 3” x 4 ½” high).
Looking for just the vent but can only locate the entire assembly which is
costly.  Any thoughts where I could get just the vent?  One option is a Sea
Dog vent at half the Nicro price.  Any experience with the Sea Dog?

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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