Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

http://superb.kcmaps.com

Pierre Tremblay

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

http://have.thesportsbrandingagency.com

Allan Rheaume

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Re: Stus-List Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch bearings (My Address)

[Glenn Gambel via CnC-List]

Allen,

Forgot to send you my address so here it is:

Glenn Gambel
5730 Oak Tree Lane
Whitehall, Michigan 49461, USA
cell number 231-286-7760 should you need it.

Thanks again,
Glenn Gambel

-- Original Message --
From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Ken Heaton" 
Sent: 7/4/2018 5:46:30 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch bearings

I'll second Arco winches in Australia.  Great service and they sip 
quickly if they have the part.  They have most bearings for Barient 
winches..


THE AUSTRALIAN YACHT WINCH PTY. LTD.
PO Box 401
Galston N.S.W. 2159 Australia
Phone: +61 2 9653 2111
Fax: +61 2 9653 3119
Email: sa...@huttonwinches.com

All prices quoted on this site, unless otherwise specified, are in US 
dollars.


http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares

They return emails quickly.

Ken H.

On Wed, 4 Jul 2018 at 17:42, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I decided to clean my Barient 28 two speed self tailing winches today. 
 It was sunny and nice and I had been putting the project off for a 
while.  I did not think I would run into many problems, and that was a 
mistake.  I did, but won't go into those now.  Suffice to say, I did 
get the winch apart and was cleaning the parts and organizing them for 
reassembly, and discovered that one of the bearing had separated.  
Though I recovered all of the parts and have them, I think reassembly 
may be very difficult, and even if I could reassemble the thing, I 
suspect that it may not hold together once the winch is operated, 
especially under load.


Does any one know where I might order new bearing or find new bearings 
for my Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch?  Any idea or help 
would be appreciated.  I would get the part number, but have to figure 
that out.


Sincerely,
Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits
C&C 36
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Re: Stus-List Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch bearings

[Glenn Gambel via CnC-List]

Attention Listers,

I followed the advice of contacting Allen Hutton at 
sa...@huttonwinches.com via e-mail.  I sent Allen the dimensions of the 
needle bearing that I needed to repair my Barient 28 ST winch.  He told 
me that he had the bearings, gave me the part number and I ordered two 
of them this evening, supplying my credit card in a fairly secure way 
and they will be shipped to be via insured mail. What great customer 
service.  I highly recommend this company and Allen.  Though everyone 
should know.


Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits
1981 C&C 36

-- Original Message --
From: "Ken Heaton via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Ken Heaton" 
Sent: 7/4/2018 5:46:30 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch bearings

I'll second Arco winches in Australia.  Great service and they sip 
quickly if they have the part.  They have most bearings for Barient 
winches..


THE AUSTRALIAN YACHT WINCH PTY. LTD.
PO Box 401
Galston N.S.W. 2159 Australia
Phone: +61 2 9653 2111
Fax: +61 2 9653 3119
Email: sa...@huttonwinches.com

All prices quoted on this site, unless otherwise specified, are in US 
dollars.


http://www.arco-winches.com/products/spares

They return emails quickly.

Ken H.

On Wed, 4 Jul 2018 at 17:42, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I decided to clean my Barient 28 two speed self tailing winches today. 
 It was sunny and nice and I had been putting the project off for a 
while.  I did not think I would run into many problems, and that was a 
mistake.  I did, but won't go into those now.  Suffice to say, I did 
get the winch apart and was cleaning the parts and organizing them for 
reassembly, and discovered that one of the bearing had separated.  
Though I recovered all of the parts and have them, I think reassembly 
may be very difficult, and even if I could reassemble the thing, I 
suspect that it may not hold together once the winch is operated, 
especially under load.


Does any one know where I might order new bearing or find new bearings 
for my Barient 28 two speed self tailing winch?  Any idea or help 
would be appreciated.  I would get the part number, but have to figure 
that out.


Sincerely,
Glenn Gambel
Wind N Spirits
C&C 36
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Stus-List Landfall 38 - OSR compliance ?

[john sandford via CnC-List]

I am researching the ability of my LF 38, to comply with the World Sailing
Offshore Special Regulations Cat 1, and would appreciate any feedback.

Most of it looks straight forward, and first checks show the boat complies,
and may even have been built with some of these in mind. Cockpit volume,
Hatches, etc. 

However, I got stumped in the section with; stability calculations, ORC
rating, etc. 

It would be easier if someone has prior history that they could share, hence
the post.

 

Here is what OSR says for Stability:

 

3.04 

Stability 

-

Monohulls 

3.04.1 Able to demonstrate compliance with ISO12217-2* design category A or
higher, either by EC Recreational Craft Directive certification having
obtained the CE mark or the designer’s declaration * The latest effective
version of ISO12217-2 should be used unless the boat was already designed to
a previous 

version 

3.04.2 Where compliance in accordance with 3.04.1 cannot be demonstrated,
able to demonstrate either: 

a) i a STIXvalue not less than 32; and 

ii AVS not less than 130 -0.002*m, but always >= 100°, (where “m” is the
mass of the boat in the minimum operating condition as defined by
ISO12217-2); and iii a minimum righting energy m*AGZ>172000 (where AGZ is
the positive area under the righting lever curve in the minimum operating
condition, expressed in kg metre degrees from upright to AVS); or 

b) Stability Index in ORC Rating System of not less than 110; or 

c) IRC SSS Base value of not less than 28 

 

Yes I am stumped !

 

I know that Rick Knowles, “INDIGO” did the HFX/Marblehead race which (today
anyway) requires the above.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you

John

 

 

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Re: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

No matter who or what you decide on, give the service and support of a
local loft considerable preference.  IMO there is nothing like getting
immediate service, personal and professional measurements, test sails,
revisions, and repairs.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Jul 5, 2018, 12:30 PM jay hackney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980
> C&C 34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape.
> I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would
> partial battens on the main I believe.
> A couple of questions for the community:
> 1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
> 2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
> 3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?
>
> Many thanks
> Jay Hackney
> Toronto
> C&C 34: Windblown___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Jay,

When you're getting quotes, call Kevin Piper at Bay Sails in Hamilton he makes 
great sails and gives excellent service.

469 Bay Street North
Hamilton, Ontario
L8L 1N2 
(905) 529-7245

Rick Taillieu
Boatless 
Leamington, Ontario



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jay hackney 
via CnC-List
Sent: July-05-18 12:29
To: DON JONSSON via CnC-List
Cc: jay hackney
Subject: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980 C&C 
34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape. 
I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would 
partial battens on the main I believe.
A couple of questions for the community:
1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?

Many thanks
Jay Hackney
Toronto
C&C 34: Windblown


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Re: Stus-List wheel squeak - Follow up/Resolution

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bruce, I found this historical email from you last year.  Based on your
recent investigation I think you were experiencing a symptom of the
deterioration last year.  I believe you had to raise the radial drive wheel
because the sheave plate was collapsing, raising the exit path of the
cables from the sheaves.

Josh

On Mon, Aug 28, 2017, 8:17 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I thought I would let you know what I found when I tracked down our
> creaking/crunching sound when we turned the wheel on our 1994 C&C 37/40+.
> According to the survey, the drive wheel at the rudder post had been
> recently replaced.  When I went and looked at the idlers and the drive
> wheel, the wheel was slightly out of alignment.  So, when the wheel was
> moved, the cable lightly rubbed the edge of the wheel ring, and the
> resulting noise was actually much worse than one would imagine.
>
> Once I backed off the bolts and slightly raised the drive wheel, the noise
> went away.
>
> FYI, I also found a loose idler pulley mounting nut, and also found the
> idler axles are stainless pins.
>
> In the end, a very easy fix.
>
> Thanks for insights everyone!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:20 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
>
> This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here
> buy them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive,
> but still good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> *Cc:* svpegasus38 
> *Sent:* Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
>
> Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973
> Ericson 35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the
> emergency tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured
> out it was almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the
> compass, chart plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the
> cable and sailed off into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to
> the sun set. Next morning at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt
> was at the helm and the seas were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4
> like the day before. Hove to again changed the second cable. The owner had
> changed out the cable 3 years before using hardware store wire rope.
> I heard from a friend, who sailed back to Victoria, that the cables broke
> again.
> My thought was that he had too stuff of cable for the sheave  diameter.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus (for sale)
> Lf38
> Rebecca Leah LF39
>
>  Original message 
> From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: ahycrace 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
>
> Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a
> loud BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the
> cockpit and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys
> has pulled right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor
> homea very bad day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys.
> Edson has all the replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate
> before i took it off. I can post them when we get home we are in Newport
> watching the J class boats race.
>
> Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
>
> Richard,
> Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that
> support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).
> Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease
> holes as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.
> You can also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the
> wheel shaft up and down, or side to side.  There should be no play in the
> shaft at all..
>
> Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips
> and all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel
> shaft.  If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the
> brake shoes if everything else is apart.
>
> The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the sheave pins (axles)
> for the bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings and in the “old
> days” the axles were also bronze, which w

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Did this job in 2015.  Edson offered only the cast aluminum idler plate.  Its better than the OEM, but raises the pedestal somewhat.  Expect to make a trim ring from 3/4 stock; starboard or foamboard.  I offered my templates to Edson, but they were mute.  Another option mentioned by Francois, contact Garhauer to make a new one in SS.  I never did that cause I found a way to make the Edson one work. My unit has the original bronze sheaves, SS towers, aluminum base, SS cable going round an aluminum radial sheave.On July 5, 2018 at 3:38 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List  wrote:  Richard,    My 37+ has an Edson 776-4AL which has a stamped steel plate with aluminum sheaves.  It cost me $303 in 2014.  This part is no longer listed on the Edson website.  The plate which is about 1/8” thick and is sandwiched between the bottom of the pedestal and fiberglass on the cockpit floor.  The newer 776AL-4AL has an aluminum plate with aluminum sheaves.  The plate is about half an inch thick so when sandwiched as the original steel plate, the pedestal will sit about 3/8” higher and probably show a gap.       The original steel plate would have worked had the location been in a dry area below the pedestal.  C&C should have used a stainless steel or aluminum plate in the 37+/40 application.  There may be similar issues on other boats.  Maybe Edson knows which C&C’s used the 776-4AL in an exposed area.  There may be a demand for an identical replacement using a more suitable plate material.  When I got my 776-4AL, the Edson person who helped me said they could water cut new plates as the original dies were probably gone.  Edson had files on the 37+ and I do remember the person at the counter hollering back to one of the offices, “Hey Rob, we have one of your boats”.  Magically, a file folder with details of the 37+ appeared.    Edson is really a first class outfit and I’m sure if a few list members contacted them, they’d offer a solution.    Ron    From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- via CnC-ListSent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:18 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: bushma...@aol.comSubject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate  Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks    Richard s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon) Richard N. Bush  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 502-584-7255       -Original Message-From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List To: cnc-list Cc: Ron Ricci Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 amSubject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate Bruce, I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.   Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement.  This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  Regards,RonRon RicciS/V PatriotC&C 37+Bristol, RIron.ri...@1968.usna.comFrom: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PMTo: C&C ListCc: Bruce WhitmoreSubject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate  Hello all, I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.   One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see them here:     https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0    It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler pulleys mount securely.     Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables (until I can replace the plate entirely)?     Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:   a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to

Re: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Jay, am in Whitby and went through this last year with the help of the good 
people here and others. 

  See blog for discussion.  

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/10/mainsail-decision-made.html?m=1

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/10/mainsail-specification-rig-photos.html?m=1

Am happy I ordered the main from a local loft.  I also need to order a headsail 
and may go with Rolly Tasker in Thailand.  (Good experience with them for 
custom a-chute)

Best of luck.  

Dave 
Windstar 33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 5, 2018, at 6:29 PM, jay hackney  wrote:
> 
> I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980 C&C 
> 34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape. 
> I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would 
> partial battens on the main I believe.
> A couple of questions for the community:
> 1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
> 2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
> 3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?
> 
> Many thanks
> Jay Hackney
> Toronto
> C&C 34: Windblown
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Richard,

 

My 37+ has an Edson 776-4AL which has a stamped steel plate with aluminum 
sheaves.  It cost me $303 in 2014.  This part is no longer listed on the Edson 
website.  The plate which is about 1/8” thick and is sandwiched between the 
bottom of the pedestal and fiberglass on the cockpit floor.  The newer 
776AL-4AL has an aluminum plate with aluminum sheaves.  The plate is about half 
an inch thick so when sandwiched as the original steel plate, the pedestal will 
sit about 3/8” higher and probably show a gap.   

 

The original steel plate would have worked had the location been in a dry area 
below the pedestal.  C&C should have used a stainless steel or aluminum plate 
in the 37+/40 application.  There may be similar issues on other boats.  Maybe 
Edson knows which C&C’s used the 776-4AL in an exposed area.  There may be a 
demand for an identical replacement using a more suitable plate material.  When 
I got my 776-4AL, the Edson person who helped me said they could water cut new 
plates as the original dies were probably gone.  Edson had files on the 37+ and 
I do remember the person at the counter hollering back to one of the offices, 
“Hey Rob, we have one of your boats”.  Magically, a file folder with details of 
the 37+ appeared.

 

Edson is really a first class outfit and I’m sure if a few list members 
contacted them, they’d offer a solution.

 

Ron 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe 
all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks

 

Richard

s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

Bruce,

 

I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  

 

Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 

 

This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
 ] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  

 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0

 

It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  

 

Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  

 

Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:

 

a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire

b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail

c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly

d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0

f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & 

Re: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Jay,

My suggestion is - shop around. The prices for reasonably decent sails vary 
quite a bit. 

You are in a bit better place than I (there are some sail lofts in Toronto), 
but you may find that mail-ordering works quite well.

There is a discount sail loft right on the other side of the boarder (Somerset 
Sails, in Barker, NY). He makes reasonable sails at very reasonable price 
(about half of what a local Doyle dealer quoted).

Of course, it would be your measurements, so measure twice and then check again.

Before you seriously consider used sails, do shop around.

Good luck

Marek
1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of jay hackney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 12:29
To: DON JONSSON via CnC-List 
Cc: jay hackney 
Subject: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980 C&C 
34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape. 
I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would 
partial battens on the main I believe.
A couple of questions for the community:
1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?

Many thanks
Jay Hackney
Toronto
C&C 34: Windblown
___

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Re: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I am a big fan of Boston Doyle in Point Edward Ontario.

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, 5 Jul 2018 at 12:30 PM, jay hackney via 
CnC-List wrote:   I’m considering getting new mainsail 
and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980 C&C 34. Current main & genoa are bagged 
out & not in top shape. 
I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would 
partial battens on the main I believe.
A couple of questions for the community:
1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?

Many thanks
Jay Hackney
Toronto
C&C 34: Windblown___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Check out these articles.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yakFDZERscXFTaUE

On Thu, Jul 5, 2018, 12:30 PM jay hackney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980
> C&C 34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape.
> I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would
> partial battens on the main I believe.
> A couple of questions for the community:
> 1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
> 2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
> 3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?
>
> Many thanks
> Jay Hackney
> Toronto
> C&C 34: Windblown___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[John Berringer via CnC-List]

We have used Doyle's for new genoa and DRS for our C&C32. Good service and
reasonable prices


On Thu, Jul 5, 2018 at 11:30 jay hackney via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980
> C&C 34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape.
> I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would
> partial battens on the main I believe.
> A couple of questions for the community:
> 1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
> 2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
> 3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?
>
> Many thanks
> Jay Hackney
> Toronto
> C&C 34: Windblown___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List New sails for C&C 34

[jay hackney via CnC-List]

I’m considering getting new mainsail and 135% genoa (furling) for my 1980 C&C 
34. Current main & genoa are bagged out & not in top shape. 
I’m a cruiser, not a racer, so Dacron would be fine for my needs. As would 
partial battens on the main I believe.
A couple of questions for the community:
1. I’m sailing out of Toronto, Ontario - any suggestions for local lofts?
2. Any chance of finding used sails still in good enough condition?
3. Any general suggestions regarding purchase of a new suit of sails?

Many thanks
Jay Hackney
Toronto
C&C 34: Windblown

smime.p7s
Description: S/MIME cryptographic signature
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 2018 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Milford, CT -- September 7-9, 2018

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

I hope everyone had a happy and safe Fourth of July — we had the Enterprise 
moored at the Hempstead Harbor breakwater for Glen Cove’s phenomenal fireworks 
show and had a wonderful visit by lister Neil Gallagher. 

ANNOUNCING THE 2018 C&C NORTHEAST RENDEZVOUS in Milfort, CT at the Milford 
Lisman Landing Marina - September 7-9, 2018. 

Features (so far) include:
Floating docks with Water and Shore Power
Two-block walk into Milford
Picnic Area
Group Dinner at Archie Moore’s Restaurant (Appetizers, Coffee and Soda included 
with Registration; Separate Checks for Dinner Entrees)
C&C Boat Tours
Short Walk to Adjacent Park
Only $3/ft/night plus $32/person

Want more details? Want to register? Want to see my new way-cool C&C Rendezvous 
website? www.cncnortheast.com   

Hope to see you there!

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






___

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

On my boat, Chamamé, she just received a complete overhaul of the Edson
#334 pedestal, #727 engine controls, #776 idler plate with cable
replacement in May. Like Bruce, I am sailing locally but plan venture into
the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean.

Bruce, your steps appear in order and the job is not difficult except for
limited access. Mine was out in about two hours but the shop work seemed to
take forever and reassembly took all of an afternoon. I seem to have to put
things together about three times before I get it exactly right for the
final assembly. Please don't hesitate to call me and talk it through.

My idler plate appeared in much better condition than Bruce's but upon
removal and closer inspection I found that a stainless grommet, that makes
the pivot point and attaches the wheel assembly to the plate, had cracked
about halfway around it's circumference. Left unchecked this likely would
have resulted in a ugly failure before the next inspection. Edson balked at
repairing the assembly, saying that they have never seen one returned in
serviceable condition. I sent a photo that showed that it was
otherwise fine condition and they said OK to return it for assessment.

I attribute it's life to an excellent sealing job at the deck, preventing
salt water from leaking onto the plate from above.

The assembly was returned to Edson for repair and they replaced the grommet
for a reasonable price. Although IMO the plate is an inferior design due to
it's vulnerability to corrosion, I felt that if properly installed and
sealed it would provide reliable service if inspected occasionally. I
coated it with a Corroseal, a product similar to Ospho, and used copious
amounts of plumber's putty to seal the pedestal at the deck joint. This
approach probably saved about $350 over the cost of replacing it with the
redesigned assembly.

The wire rope assemblies were fabricated locally in St. Petersburg, FL by
SSMR, Inc. who I can recommend without hesitation. The replacements were
exact duplicates of what was removed and the price was under $100.

Due to aforementioned references to loss of steering I also chose to
reroute all cables through the pedestal guard tubes to eliminate the
possibility of fouling the sprocket and chain. Two boats in our club
recently collided after steering failure, ending the season early for them
both, ​​so I was especially sensitive to that.

Hope this helps. Comments welcomed.

--
Tim Rutherford
1981 C&C 36 #244 Chamamé
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
813 748 4888 cel/text

​
 20180204_181613.jpg

​​
 20180204_181555.jpg

​​
 20180204_181619.jpg

​

On Thu, Jul 5, 2018 at 9:18 AM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do
> believe all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Ron Ricci 
> Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
>
> Bruce,
>
> I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system
> several years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and
> the steering cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to
> last plate Edson had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.
>
> Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new
> ones as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think
> that it like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement.
>
> This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.
> Regards,
> *Ron*
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bruce Whitmore via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Bruce Whitmore
> *Subject:* Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to
> stern to make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable
> that we've addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will
> want to do some Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.
>
>
> One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and
> rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple
> fine meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very
> near future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about t

Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,

You don't want the Edson idler plate anyway because they are made out of
mild steel which is not suited for the application and why they corrode
into oblivion. (We have the same issues on the 34+ , 34/36, 36+, and 34R
variants

If your's is still decent you can send it to Garhauer
https://www.garhauerstore.com  they'll make you a better out of stainless
steel for less money.

Ask Chuck for details, I believe he had his done there.

Best Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I do not believe it is solely limited to the 37/40+, and in fact have seen 
other posts about people losing steering in races & offshore passages due to 
failure of the plate due to rust. 

Per Edson's website, they are running about $400 - $450.Hope this helps, Bruce 
Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
 Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 9:19 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate
   
 Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe 
all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks
 
Richards/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)

Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

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.yiv1815358118aolReplacedBody div.yiv1815358118aolmail_WordSection1 {}Bruce, I 
replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.   Edson told me that when 
the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones as the dies were no 
longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it like many others on 
37+/40’s will need replacement.  This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners 
to inspect their plates.  Regards,RonRon RicciS/V PatriotC&C 37+Bristol, 
riron.ri...@1968.usna.com     From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate Hello all, I have a 1994 C&C 
37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to make sure that I 
understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've addressed the 
major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some Caribbean 
cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  

 One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  



https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0



It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  



Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  



Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:

a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire

b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail

c).  Disconnect s

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Ron, do you think the plate issue is indigenous to the 37+/40s or do believe 
all boats will/should have to replace? Thanks

 


Richard
s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River (soon)


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Ron Ricci 
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2018 8:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate



Bruce,
 
I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  
 
Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 
 
This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  
Regards,
Ron
Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot
C&C 37+
Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
 
   
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  



 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  







https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0



https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0



https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0







It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  







Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  







Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:





a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire



b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail



c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly



d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0



f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & wires through & label fish 
lines accordingly

g).  Remove idler pulleys, disassemble, check & grease

h).  Remove & replace plate, hopefully with Edson supplied version, if not have 
one machined from aluminum locally

i).   Reassemble







I understand that some folks have ordered replacement plates only to find them 
to not be an exact fit (thus the comment about having one machined locally).  
Can anyone confirm or deny this?  







Given what you can see, how emergent is this repair? 







Thanks for all your input!






Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+

"Astralis"

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I replaced my idler plate and generally overhauled the steering system several 
years ago.  The idler pulleys had almost fallen off the plate and the steering 
cables actually fell off the radial wheel.  I got the next to last plate Edson 
had in stock and I think the last one is now gone.  

 

Edson told me that when the last idler was gone they could water cut new ones 
as the dies were no longer available.  Your plate looks OK but I think that it 
like many others on 37+/40’s will need replacement. 

 

This may be a good time for all 37+/40 owners to inspect their plates.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

  

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 4, 2018 3:14 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Edson Wheel Idler Pulley Plate

 

Hello all,

 

I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ that we are slowly going through from stem to stern to 
make sure that I understand the systems and that we're comfortable that we've 
addressed the major, if not minor issues.  Eventually we will want to do some 
Caribbean cruising, but for now we're day sailing.  



 

One of the issues I saw brought up was potential wear on idler pulleys and 
rusting of the idler pulley plate.  One of my steering cables has a couple fine 
meathooks, so the cables are on the list for replacement in the very near 
future (I have the cables).  That got me thinking about the plate, and I slid 
my cell phone in through the stern access and snapped some photos.  You can see 
them here:  







 

 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6loqazy934saift/Idler%20Pulleys%20-%20Farther%20out%20view.jpg?dl=0



 

 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kss6g0pyrephdb9/Idler%20Pulleys%2C%20closeup%20aft.jpg?dl=0



 

 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fpsowvbmlx9u383/Idler%20Pully%20Plate%2C%20forward.jpg?dl=0







It seems as though the rust is all on the surface at the moment and the idler 
pulleys mount securely.  







Can anyone tell me how difficult and time consuming it will be to change out 
the plate?  If the plate only has surface corrosion, is treating it in place 
with Ospho a reasonable short term solution while I am swapping out the cables 
(until I can replace the plate entirely)?  







Can you also confirm the steps, which I presume to be as follows:





a).  Remove the compass, disconnect compass light, attach a fish line to the 
wire



b).  Remove plate that serves to attach stainless grab rail



c).  Disconnect shifter and throttle cables from levers, attach fish lines to 
aid in reassembly



d).  Remove cable/chain, attach fish lines to ends of cables

e).  Remove steering pedestal bolts - see here:   
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pxc37iifz7eo596/Pedestal%20Guard%20Feet.jpg?dl=0



f).   Pull pedestal loose, pulling ends of cables & wires through & label fish 
lines accordingly

g).  Remove idler pulleys, disassemble, check & grease

h).  Remove & replace plate, hopefully with Edson supplied version, if not have 
one machined from aluminum locally

i).   Reassemble







I understand that some folks have ordered replacement plates only to find them 
to not be an exact fit (thus the comment about having one machined locally).  
Can anyone confirm or deny this?  







Given what you can see, how emergent is this repair? 







Thanks for all your input!





Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C&C 37/40+

"Astralis"

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 boat speed

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Just to clarify we are trying to locate the bulkhead unit for this 4x4 square 
boat speed instrument to replace ours.  These have been out of manufacture for 
over 10 years now and are only available as used and infrequently at that.  If 
anyone has one they are not using, we would appreciate hearing from you

 

Many thanks

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2018 8:02 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Stus-List Standard Horizon 150 boat speed

 

Anyone have one of these hanging around?  Went to calibrate ours and the button 
is not functional

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

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