Re: Stus-List Engine mounts

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

With someone at the helm in open water, watch the engine carefully as the
engine is shifted from forward to reverse.  If it jumps, mounts are bad.

On my old Plymouth I'd open the hood, put the engine in gear with one foot
firmly on the brake and hit the gas with the other.  If the engine lifted
up, the mount was bad.  Chrysler eventually put steel straps around the
mounts.

On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 6:43 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok, so now you folks have me wondering - how would I determine if my motor
> mounts are bad or getting ready to fail?
>
> I have not noticed any untoward clunking or vibration, but I'm relatively
> new to the boat...
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Sent:* Monday, July 9, 2018 10:33 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Engine mounts
>
> Tom,
>
> The original Yanmar mounts have a fatal flaw in that if the rubber
> degrades it can tear and leave the engine un mounted.  Some race
> regulations actually require wire or chain ties to restrain the top and
> bottom parts should the rubber fail.  PYI makes a replacement mount which
> is positively captured so that even if the rubber breaks down the mount
> can't separate.  The leading cause of the rubber to fail is fuel
> saturation.  The PYI mounts are designed with a metal shroud to shield the
> rubber.
>
> I ran into Yanmar mounts that were soft enough that the thrust of the prop
> drove the engine forward.  There was enough movement that it opened up the
> dripless shaft seal.  Granted the seal was old and needed tightened or
> replaced but it was still quite telling to see the fountain of water.  I
> would guess that the engine was shifting about 1/2".  PYI calls the Yanmar
> mounts "marshmallow mounts" and they are designed as such to minimize noise
> and vibration.  I can't sat that I'm upset by the noise and vibration of
> the PYI mounts.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 8:49 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I just made an appointment to get them all replaced in a few weeks.  I
> found a great machinists in Sidney BC.  Superior work and currency exchange
> discount.
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Jul 9, 2018, at 5:04 PM, Ron Ricci  wrote:
>
> Two of mine were bad and I replaced all four.  The parts were inexpensive
> and the only issue I’ve had is corrosion on the steel parts.
> Regards,
> *Ron*
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, July 9, 2018 12:47 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tom Buscaglia
> *Subject:* Stus-List Engine mounts
>
> One of my engine mounts on my Yanmar 3HM35F is hopelessly seized.As
> they are over 25 years old anyway, I’m wondering if I should just replace
> the one that’s messed up or all 4.
>
> Do these things go have an effective life?
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List Engine mounts

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Tears or cracks in the rubber wound be the final and most absolute
indication.  Before that you might notice the top metal bottoming out on
the bottom metal along with the sounds of metal on metal vibration.  The
early indicators would be an inability to keep or get the engine properly
aligned at the shaft coupling along with a lot of rocking at low speed.
The backlash on the 3HM35F is pretty high and when any single engine mount
isn't pulling its weight the whole engine rocks pretty violently -
particularly at low rpm.  If you have a dripless shaft seal you might also
start to notice more leakage than usual, particularly when in forward and
at high load.  A very very early indicator might be a persistent
tar/grease/oil substance which doesn't seem to be removable or a crumbly
rubber material.

The PO replaced my mounts with a hydraulic dampened mount by vetus.  When I
got the boat the forward stbd mount had split open and goo was spilling
everywhere.

https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/VTSMITSTEUN.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwspHaBRBFEiwA0eM3kdwS7oYWiGTGMeWclFhP4WDm2BPaVOIZD0FtPZs4OprHxT5BE_0OnxoC4p4QAvD_BwE

https://store.pyiinc.com/products/yanmar-engine-mounts

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Tue, Jul 10, 2018, 6:48 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok, so now you folks have me wondering - how would I determine if my motor
> mounts are bad or getting ready to fail?
>
> I have not noticed any untoward clunking or vibration, but I'm relatively
> new to the boat...
>
> Thanks!
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
> *Sent:* Monday, July 9, 2018 10:33 PM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Engine mounts
>
> Tom,
>
> The original Yanmar mounts have a fatal flaw in that if the rubber
> degrades it can tear and leave the engine un mounted.  Some race
> regulations actually require wire or chain ties to restrain the top and
> bottom parts should the rubber fail.  PYI makes a replacement mount which
> is positively captured so that even if the rubber breaks down the mount
> can't separate.  The leading cause of the rubber to fail is fuel
> saturation.  The PYI mounts are designed with a metal shroud to shield the
> rubber.
>
> I ran into Yanmar mounts that were soft enough that the thrust of the prop
> drove the engine forward.  There was enough movement that it opened up the
> dripless shaft seal.  Granted the seal was old and needed tightened or
> replaced but it was still quite telling to see the fountain of water.  I
> would guess that the engine was shifting about 1/2".  PYI calls the Yanmar
> mounts "marshmallow mounts" and they are designed as such to minimize noise
> and vibration.  I can't sat that I'm upset by the noise and vibration of
> the PYI mounts.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 8:49 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I just made an appointment to get them all replaced in a few weeks.  I
> found a great machinists in Sidney BC.  Superior work and currency exchange
> discount.
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Jul 9, 2018, at 5:04 PM, Ron Ricci  wrote:
>
> Two of mine were bad and I replaced all four.  The parts were inexpensive
> and the only issue I’ve had is corrosion on the steel parts.
> Regards,
> *Ron*
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, July 9, 2018 12:47 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tom Buscaglia
> *Subject:* Stus-List Engine mounts
>
> One of my engine mounts on my Yanmar 3HM35F is hopelessly seized.As
> they are over 25 years old anyway, I’m wondering if I should just replace
> the one that’s messed up or all 4.
>
> Do these things go have an effective life?
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send

Re: Stus-List Engine mounts

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Ok, so now you folks have me wondering - how would I determine if my motor 
mounts are bad or getting ready to fail?  

I have not noticed any untoward clunking or vibration, but I'm relatively new 
to the boat...
Thanks! Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 10:33 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine mounts
   
Tom, 
The original Yanmar mounts have a fatal flaw in that if the rubber degrades it 
can tear and leave the engine un mounted.  Some race regulations actually 
require wire or chain ties to restrain the top and bottom parts should the 
rubber fail.  PYI makes a replacement mount which is positively captured so 
that even if the rubber breaks down the mount can't separate.  The leading 
cause of the rubber to fail is fuel saturation.  The PYI mounts are designed 
with a metal shroud to shield the rubber.  
I ran into Yanmar mounts that were soft enough that the thrust of the prop 
drove the engine forward.  There was enough movement that it opened up the 
dripless shaft seal.  Granted the seal was old and needed tightened or replaced 
but it was still quite telling to see the fountain of water.  I would guess 
that the engine was shifting about 1/2".  PYI calls the Yanmar mounts 
"marshmallow mounts" and they are designed as such to minimize noise and 
vibration.  I can't sat that I'm upset by the noise and vibration of the PYI 
mounts.
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD 


On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 8:49 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

I just made an appointment to get them all replaced in a few weeks.  I found a 
great machinists in Sidney BC.  Superior work and currency exchange discount.

Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660

On Jul 9, 2018, at 5:04 PM, Ron Ricci  wrote:


Two of mine were bad and I replaced all four.  The parts were inexpensive and 
the only issue I’ve had is corrosion on the steel parts.  Regards,RonRon 
RicciS/V PatriotC&C 37+Bristol, riron.ri...@1968.usna.com   From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 12:47 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Engine mounts One of my engine mounts on my Yanmar 3HM35F is 
hopelessly seized.    As they are over 25 years old anyway, I’m wondering if I 
should just replace the one that’s messed up or all 4. Do these things go have 
an effective life?  Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40Vashon WAP 
206.463.9200C 305.409.3660  
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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   ___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion Steering

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

To my knowledge when driving on OPB with wheel steering it has only been cable 
– was not aware rack and pinion was even an option, hence my question.  
Hydraulic seems the antithesis of the fun of sailing…   

 

Not an Island Packet – they look to be very comfortable boats but a little too 
far into the cruising end of the spectrum for me.  Good to hear the feel is 
similar to the cable steering.  If I ever go for a test sail on that boat will 
report my observations.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 11:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion 
Steering

 

Cable is better than rack and pinion for steering feel IMHO. The hydraulic 
steering boats I have sailed had rudder angel indicators because otherwise you 
have no idea what is going on. The owners said they didn’t care about feel 
because they hardly ever steered by hand out of the harbor.

Joe

Coquina

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 10:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Frederick G Street mailto:f...@postaudio.net> >
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot > Rack and Pinion 
Steering

 

Let me guess — Island Packet?

 

I’ve heard that the rack-and-pinion has a pretty direct feel, similar to a 
cable-based steering system like most of us have.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 

On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:15 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

A very timely thread…  I am beginning to look at boats for a possible change 
and wondered about what effect either a linear or a hydraulic below deck AP 
would have on the feel of a boat.  Having tiller steering now, any change to a 
wheel would be “different” – but had some concern having a below deck AP would 
make the boat feel sluggish.  Good to hear people notice little if any change 
in the helm.  

 

What is the typical change over point in terms of displacement from a linear 
mechanical to hydraulic system?  

 

One boat which caught my eye has rack and pinion steering, I assume from Edson. 
 Any sense of the pros / cons of that vs the chain and wire system?  Would 
think the “direct drive” nature of it would provide near 100% feel of the helm 
vs the chain and wire, but maybe not.  Is the maintenance simpler with rack and 
pinion?  Clean and lube the gears [like a winch] and you are done vs. all the 
discussion on replacing / aligning idler pulleys / plates, meat hooks on the 
wire, etc.  

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C Reacher

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I wouldn’t pay half the new price for a suboptimal sail.
YMMV

Joe

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dakin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 2:52 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C Reacher

$500 asking, new
Bacon Sails is $1,131 asym.
Bill Dakin

On Jul 10, 2018, at 1:33 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
How much money are we talking about?
For $300, give it a try.  For more, find out what a new right-size asym would 
cost.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dakin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin mailto:aussiebr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C Reacher

Thanks Chuck.  The sail was cut for a Hunter306 fractional rig.  The purchase 
is definitely for cruising which would give us good broad and beam reach power 
in moderate conditions.  The sail appears to be something akin to a Code0 but I 
won't exactly know until I experiment.  I know the sailmaker and called him 
about it but he doesn't remember the specs or purpose.
bd

On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 10:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bill,
Those numbers sound more like a reacher than something you could sail deep 
downwind.  If you’re only planning to cruise with it and the price is right, by 
all means give it a whirl.  But if you’re racing and sail to a rating, you’ll 
find the sail to be very flat and undersized.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Bill Dakin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin mailto:aussiebr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C clothing

CnC'ers,
I found a locally available asymmetrical spinnaker for sale and need your 
advise on fitment.
The first number is Sailrite specs, the second number is the actual sail.
Luff 32, 30
Leech 30, 24.5
Foot 18.25, 17.5

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C Reacher

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

$500 asking, new
Bacon Sails is $1,131 asym.

Bill Dakin

> On Jul 10, 2018, at 1:33 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> How much money are we talking about?
> For $300, give it a try.  For more, find out what a new right-size asym would 
> cost.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dakin 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 2:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Dakin 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C Reacher
>  
> Thanks Chuck.  The sail was cut for a Hunter306 fractional rig.  The purchase 
> is definitely for cruising which would give us good broad and beam reach 
> power in moderate conditions.  The sail appears to be something akin to a 
> Code0 but I won't exactly know until I experiment.  I know the sailmaker and 
> called him about it but he doesn't remember the specs or purpose.
> bd
>  
> On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 10:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Bill,
> Those numbers sound more like a reacher than something you could sail deep 
> downwind.  If you’re only planning to cruise with it and the price is right, 
> by all means give it a whirl.  But if you’re racing and sail to a rating, 
> you’ll find the sail to be very flat and undersized.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Dakin via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 10:47 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Dakin 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C clothing
>  
> CnC'ers, 
> I found a locally available asymmetrical spinnaker for sale and need your 
> advise on fitment.
> The first number is Sailrite specs, the second number is the actual sail.
> Luff 32, 30
> Leech 30, 24.5
> Foot 18.25, 17.5
>  
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25-2
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C&C Reacher

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

How much money are we talking about?
For $300, give it a try.  For more, find out what a new right-size asym would 
cost.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dakin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List C&C Reacher

Thanks Chuck.  The sail was cut for a Hunter306 fractional rig.  The purchase 
is definitely for cruising which would give us good broad and beam reach power 
in moderate conditions.  The sail appears to be something akin to a Code0 but I 
won't exactly know until I experiment.  I know the sailmaker and called him 
about it but he doesn't remember the specs or purpose.
bd

On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 10:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bill,
Those numbers sound more like a reacher than something you could sail deep 
downwind.  If you’re only planning to cruise with it and the price is right, by 
all means give it a whirl.  But if you’re racing and sail to a rating, you’ll 
find the sail to be very flat and undersized.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Bill Dakin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin mailto:aussiebr...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C clothing

CnC'ers,
I found a locally available asymmetrical spinnaker for sale and need your 
advise on fitment.
The first number is Sailrite specs, the second number is the actual sail.
Luff 32, 30
Leech 30, 24.5
Foot 18.25, 17.5

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List C&C Reacher

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck.  The sail was cut for a Hunter306 fractional rig.  The
purchase is definitely for cruising which would give us good broad and beam
reach power in moderate conditions.  The sail appears to be something akin
to a Code0 but I won't exactly know until I experiment.  I know the
sailmaker and called him about it but he doesn't remember the specs or
purpose.
bd

On Tue, Jul 10, 2018 at 10:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill,
>
> Those numbers sound more like a reacher than something you could sail deep
> downwind.  If you’re only planning to cruise with it and the price is
> right, by all means give it a whirl.  But if you’re racing and sail to a
> rating, you’ll find the sail to be very flat and undersized.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Bill
> Dakin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 10, 2018 10:47 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bill Dakin 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C&C clothing
>
>
>
> CnC'ers,
>
> I found a locally available asymmetrical spinnaker for sale and need your
> advise on fitment.
>
> The first number is Sailrite specs, the second number is the actual sail.
>
> Luff 32, 30
>
> Leech 30, 24.5
>
> Foot 18.25, 17.5
>
>
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
>
> 25-2
>
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Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don’t have the accumulator (yet). But it is on order.

Marek

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 10:30
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

Is your accumulator tank waterlogged? You should get at least a cup of water 
before the pump starts, depending on the size of your diaphragm.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 10:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

If we are talking about the water pressure pump…

My pump works, but this season it started to work a bit differently. In the 
past it provided a steady flow and usually shut down for a moment (as the 
pressure rose) and then turn itself on. The pitch (noise) was constant 
(almost). This year I noticed a bit less pressure and the pump is cycling 
(about once a second) alternating the pitch (faster/slower). It still turns 
itself off, when the tap is closed.

I wonder if there is anything I should look at first (short of replacing the 
pump).

I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 10:43
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or 
three diaphragms.  There are often inlet and outlet check values as well.  The 
checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat 
alternately as a drive motor runs.  As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows in 
the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no longer 
seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow.  One of the first 
symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming).  Since 
air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces.  If the 
pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough back 
pressure to seal the seating surfaces.  You can then pull water from the tanks. 
 As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained the pump 
will continue to work.  Once the tank goes dry there is no more water to seal 
the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the 
pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump.

Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater 
tanks, will degrade rubber components over time.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hello,

As new owners of our C&C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a 
ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall 
appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for 
assistance hopefully.

The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much 
on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the 
pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. 
Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, 
checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution 
gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the 
galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this 
gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them 
while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is 
pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, 
confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me 
from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing 
exploratory work at the dock!  What should I be doing appropriately to switch 
from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not?

Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self 
priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be 
an alternate question?

Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously!

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C&C 30 MKII, Monoloy

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Thanks everyone f

Re: Stus-List Email Change

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Go to the photo album website where you subscribed in the first place.
>From there you can change all of your preferences.

On Tue, Jul 10, 2018, 12:14 PM Jim Eagon via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello!!
>
> Thank you for all the great emails in the list.
> It has been very helpful for me and my C&C 37.
>
> Can you please change my email from jea...@gmail.com to jas62661@gmail.
> com?
>
> Thanks again...!
>
> Jim  Eagon
> Happy subscriber and owner.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Email Change

[Jim Eagon via CnC-List]

Hello!!

Thank you for all the great emails in the list.
It has been very helpful for me and my C&C 37.

Can you please change my email from jea...@gmail.com to jas62661@gmail. com?

Thanks again...!

Jim  Eagon
Happy subscriber and owner.
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Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

When my starter failed, it burned causing a lot of smoke and excitement. I 
think the solenoid contacts stuck in the closed position causing large current 
flow. In any case a fire on board is a bad day. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Jul 10, 2018, at 7:01 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would definitely check the voltage at the starter solenoid coil coming from 
> the button.  I found on my 37+ that the voltage was very low because C&C used 
> very small gauge wire (22 Ga.) from the engine panel to the solenoid.  This 
> resulted in a significant voltage drop (5-6 volts) which precluded the 
> solenoid from pulling in reliably.  There are two solutions if this is your 
> problem.   Rewire the start button with at least 18 Ga wire, or put a relay 
> next to the starter so the solenoid gets the full 12 volts to the coil.  I 
> put a relay in because I was too lazy to string all that wire.  I've had no 
> problems since.
> 
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 9:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar 
>> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is 
>> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the 
>> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over 
>> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are 
>> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or 
>> wiring??  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the 
>> fix?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C&C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C clothing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I asked Don to add the 35-1.  Poof!  Here's the link:

https://maritimetees.net/products/c-c-35-1-t-shirt

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jul 4, 2018 at 5:16 PM, Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I asked Maritimetees.net  out of California if
> they would build t shirts with the 37+ line drawings and logo. 20 minutes
> later they are on order and appeared online. The owner Don is a C&C fan.
> There are probably lots of places selling them but I haven’t seen them
> before, thought I would share.
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I had a similar problem that was a result of a corroding ring terminal attached 
to the grounding stud on the engine, located on a bracket aft of the starter 
motor.   (2gm) This is where the wiring harness grounds to the engine and thus 
the battery negative.

When I do any work on the boat I inspect/tighten  all terminals etc and have 
found other issues in the making.   

My key switch is also wearing and requires a wiggle once in awhile to have the 
contacts engage.  I will parallel-wire a hidden switch inside the boat to 
eliminate this issue.

Hope this helps.

Dave


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 10, 2018, at 8:50 AM, Dreuge  wrote:
> 
> I also agree that it could be corrosion with one of the start battery cables. 
>  But I also had a problem as described, and in my case, it was the starting 
> switch/button which was failing.  I replaced it with a cheap SeaDog switch 
> which conveniently stocked locally.  The SeaDog switch started exhibiting the 
> same problem within 6 months.  I replaced the switch with a better quality 
> Cole Hearse switch and have been problem free for years.
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Jul 10, 2018, at 7:31 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2018 00:30:59 -0600
>> From: Sam Salter 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM
>> Message-ID: 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>> 
>> Check the ground connection first, mounted to one of the flywheel cover 
>> bolts. Clean it up and retighten. They corrode over time.
>> If that doesn?t fix it, I?d replace the thick battery to starter wires and 
>> connectors. 36 years is a fair life for those electrical cables and they 
>> corrode inside the insulation so it?s difficult to spot a problem.
>> I had the same problem a couple of years ago on my 2GM 20F and 4 new off the 
>> shelf wires with ends from Canadian Tire solved the problem. (I know - not 
>> tinned, but I sail in fresh water and another 36 years is all I?ll be 
>> needing !)
>> 
>> sam :-)
>> C&C 26 Liquorice 
>> Ghost Lake Alberta 
>> 
>> 
>> On Jul 9, 2018, at 7:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar 
>> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is 
>> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the 
>> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over 
>> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are 
>> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or 
>> wiring??  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the 
>> fix?
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> Legacy III
>> 1982 C&C 34
>> Noank, CT
> 
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Re: Stus-List C&C clothing

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Bill,

Those numbers sound more like a reacher than something you could sail deep 
downwind.  If you’re only planning to cruise with it and the price is right, by 
all means give it a whirl.  But if you’re racing and sail to a rating, you’ll 
find the sail to be very flat and undersized.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Bill Dakin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2018 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Dakin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C clothing

 

CnC'ers, 

I found a locally available asymmetrical spinnaker for sale and need your 
advise on fitment.

The first number is Sailrite specs, the second number is the actual sail.

Luff 32, 30

Leech 30, 24.5

Foot 18.25, 17.5

 

Do you see an acceptable fit for my boat?

 

It's brand new, grade 1.  My thought was the foot and luff were most critical. 


Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry

25-2

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Stus-List Correct subject, asymmetrical spin

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2

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Re: Stus-List C&C clothing

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

CnC'ers,
I found a locally available asymmetrical spinnaker for sale and need your
advise on fitment.
The first number is Sailrite specs, the second number is the actual sail.
Luff 32, 30
Leech 30, 24.5
Foot 18.25, 17.5

Do you see an acceptable fit for my boat?

It's brand new, grade 1.  My thought was the foot and luff were most
critical.

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2
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Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi John,

I had the same symptoms on mine, at first I just made sure my batteries
were on "All" at least at the beginning of the weekend and that bought me a
couple years..

Then I replaced the button switch as there's no relay and it takes the
brunt of the current.  That bought me another year.

It came back last year I just called Mastry Yanmar in Florida (
http://www.mastry.com/) and for a couple hundred bucks I bought a rebuilt
starter that has twice the warranty of the Yanmar OEM.

I should have gotten it years ago.  It spins faster, uses less juice, is
great and it was an easy 45-50 minutes swap.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Is your accumulator tank waterlogged? You should get at least a cup of water 
before the pump starts, depending on the size of your diaphragm.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 09, 2018 10:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

 

If we are talking about the water pressure pump…

 

My pump works, but this season it started to work a bit differently. In the 
past it provided a steady flow and usually shut down for a moment (as the 
pressure rose) and then turn itself on. The pitch (noise) was constant 
(almost). This year I noticed a bit less pressure and the pump is cycling 
(about once a second) alternating the pitch (faster/slower). It still turns 
itself off, when the tap is closed.

 

I wonder if there is anything I should look at first (short of replacing the 
pump). 

 

I would appreciate any suggestions.

 

Thanks

 

Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 10:43
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

 

Typically the water pumps are rubber diaphragm style with either one, two, or 
three diaphragms.  There are often inlet and outlet check values as well.  The 
checks and diaphragms are rubber flappers that push/pull, seat/unseat 
alternately as a drive motor runs.  As the rubber gets old and as gunk grows in 
the water system the rubber shrinks, hardens, and deforms so that it no longer 
seats properly to push/pull water or prevent back flow.  One of the first 
symptoms is that the pump has difficulty drawing water (dry priming).  Since 
air is less viscous than water, it leaks past the sealing surfaces.  If the 
pump is already primed then the more viscous water will create enough back 
pressure to seal the seating surfaces.  You can then pull water from the tanks. 
 As long as a relatively uninterrupted supply of water is maintained the pump 
will continue to work.  Once the tank goes dry there is no more water to seal 
the seating surfaces and swapping to the other tank may not be enough since the 
pump is no longer creating a suction to prime the pump.

 

Propylene glycol and bleach, the 2 chemicals typically added to freshwater 
tanks, will degrade rubber components over time.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C&C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello, 

As new owners of our C&C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a 
ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall 
appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for 
assistance hopefully.  

The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much 
on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the 
pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. 
Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, 
checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution 
gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the 
galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this 
gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them 
while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is 
pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, 
confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me 
from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing 
exploratory work at the dock!  What should I be doing appropriately to switch 
from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not?  

Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self 
priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be 
an alternate question?

Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously!

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C&C 30 MKII, Monoloy

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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   

Stus-List Hyrdaulic auto-pilot

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Thanks to all who replied to my query regarding hydraulic auto-pilots--I have 
committed/sent the check to have a Raymarine unit installed!
 
Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C XL/kcb
Water Phantom
 
cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I would definitely check the voltage at the starter solenoid coil coming
from the button.  I found on my 37+ that the voltage was very low because
C&C used very small gauge wire (22 Ga.) from the engine panel to the
solenoid.  This resulted in a significant voltage drop (5-6 volts) which
precluded the solenoid from pulling in reliably.  There are two solutions
if this is your problem.   Rewire the start button with at least 18 Ga
wire, or put a relay next to the starter so the solenoid gets the full 12
volts to the coil.  I put a relay in because I was too lazy to string all
that wire.  I've had no problems since.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 9:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar
> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is
> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the
> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over
> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are
> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or
> wiring??  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the
> fix?
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Bad ground on the starter motor.  I had same issue.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2018, at 9:47 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Yanmar  makes a relay that goes on the solenoid so that the switch is 
> activating the relay instead of the starter. The relay requires minimal 
> current. 
> Easier than tracing wires or replacing wiring harnesses. 
> 
> Joel
> 
>> On Mon, Jul 9, 2018 at 9:33 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar 
>> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is 
>> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the 
>> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over 
>> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are 
>> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or 
>> wiring??  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the 
>> fix?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John and Maryann
>> 
>> Legacy III
>> 
>> 1982 C&C 34
>> 
>> Noank, CT
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

[Maurice Poulin via CnC-List]

Hello Chad,

Yes that's it, manifold is black with 4 orange valves, two of which service the 
tanks.  

So just to confirm:

1) Parallel to the manifold nothing works, they need to be vertical 
(perpendicular) with either pointed end or round end determining open and 
closed?

2) The manifold in my boat is loose so unsure what is up! So how about - 
Pointed part in the direction of pump for open? and you reverse, as in, round 
end in the direction of pump to close and switch tanks? or vice versa?

It would be great if you can confirm as I am pretty sure that is the issue I am 
having! Pretty tricky and I note that the manual is generally silent on 
operations of these thing.  Great idea marking the ends, I shall do that btw!

Cheers,

Maurice

 Original Message 
From: Chad Osmond via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chad Osmond 
Sent: Tue, Jul 10, 2018 7:39 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump



Is this the black and orange 4 port manifold? If so, each side of the knobs has 
either a round part or a pointed part at the end. The orientation is 
vertically, with the pointed part up for open, or the rounded end for closed.


If they're sideways it will not work.


I ended up removing mine to get a better look. The difference in the ends is 
subtle, so I used a marker to mark the pointed ends black.


On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List, 
 wrote:

Hello, 

As new owners of our C&C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had a 
ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall 
appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for 
assistance hopefully.  

The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty much 
on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never could get the 
pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge up the lines. 
Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the settee tank, 
checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to this distribution 
gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump and from there to the 
galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect I may not be working this 
gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct valves or maybe closing them 
while thinking I am opening them. I see on the valve handles that one side is 
pointed while the other side is round, possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, 
confusion and the fear of running down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me 
from tearing this thing apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing 
exploratory work at the dock!  What should I be doing appropriately to switch 
from tanks or can you run both tanks together, or not?  

Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self 
priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump would be 
an alternate question?

Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley previously!

Cheers,

Maurice Poulin
C&C 30 MKII, Monoloy

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Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I also agree that it could be corrosion with one of the start battery cables.  
But I also had a problem as described, and in my case, it was the starting 
switch/button which was failing.  I replaced it with a cheap SeaDog switch 
which conveniently stocked locally.  The SeaDog switch started exhibiting the 
same problem within 6 months.  I replaced the switch with a better quality Cole 
Hearse switch and have been problem free for years.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 10, 2018, at 7:31 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2018 00:30:59 -0600
> From: Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Intermittent starting Yanmar 3GM
> Message-ID:  >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Check the ground connection first, mounted to one of the flywheel cover 
> bolts. Clean it up and retighten. They corrode over time.
> If that doesn?t fix it, I?d replace the thick battery to starter wires and 
> connectors. 36 years is a fair life for those electrical cables and they 
> corrode inside the insulation so it?s difficult to spot a problem.
> I had the same problem a couple of years ago on my 2GM 20F and 4 new off the 
> shelf wires with ends from Canadian Tire solved the problem. (I know - not 
> tinned, but I sail in fresh water and another 36 years is all I?ll be needing 
> !)
> 
> sam :-)
> C&C 26 Liquorice 
> Ghost Lake Alberta 
> 
> 
> On Jul 9, 2018, at 7:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
> There was a thread some time ago about intermittent starting of Yanmar 
> engines.  Our OEM Yanmar 3GM ( now 36 years old) works just fine but is 
> occasionally exhibiting symptoms where the starter clicks when I push the 
> button for a few tries without turning over.  The starter then turns over 
> after 2 or 3 clicks, engine starts right up and all is well.  Batteries are 
> fine, cranking speed is fine.  Seems like corrosion in the button or wiring?? 
>  Can someone point me to the thread or advise the consensus of the fix?
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT

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Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I agree with the posts here, including a number of Josh's concerns noted below. 
 That said, please be aware that the 37/40+ (and potentially the XL) have 
larger tanks.  We carry +/- 100 gallons of fresh water and 40 gallons of 
diesel.  I don't remember the holding tank size at the moment.
I'll also agree as to the high cockpit floor height and companionway step.  And 
yes, that makes putting on a proper dodger difficult.  That said, I find the 
steep companionway stairs to be quite secure feeling when going up & down, and 
have never felt like I was going to slip or fall.  There are good railings/grab 
spots set just for this purpose.  My fear, however is that one day there will 
be an accidental jibe as someone is going up or down, and that will not be a 
good day.  That's not to say it wouldn't happen on any other boat, but there's 
no way if I was going down the companionway that the boom would miss my head. :(
I find the A/C is perfectly capable of keeping our boat cool in 90+ temps and 
high humidity here in Florida, and the stern berth for us is best slept in with 
the head towards the aft, as that makes it better for getting in & out of the 
berth in the middle of the night.  We added an extra fan to the stern berth to 
help circulate the cool air from the A/C. We also replaced the mattresses in 
both berths just due to age - it made a huge difference.  

I have used the shower a number of times, and though it is a tad tight, I 
really like it.  We have also hung some sticky hooks in the shower to serve as 
a wet locker when necessary.  It's really nice to have an out of the way place 
for wet stuff!
The galley is simply a great design, and we cook breakfast on the weekends and 
would not hesitate to do more cooking other than the heat it would create in an 
already hot climate.  That you would face with any boat.  There is sufficient 
space in one of the cabinets for a small microwave (one was already on our 
boat, but I have to admit I have not yet used it).  

My wife particularly likes the center table which folds down on both sides, as 
she is not a fan of the typical U-shaped table designs.  

We added a stack pack which you can see in the attached picture:  
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0rlqciawspzi1ff/Astralis%20Under%20Sail%20%28Corrected%2020131109a%29.jpg?dl=0.
  You can see we just unzip it and sail with the lines and cover rigged.  We've 
attached a sail tie to the zipper, and it hangs over the side of the pack for 
easy zipping/unzipping, and is hidden when we are at the dock.  As mentioned 
before, with the addition of a downhaul and a little Sailkote, dropping the 
main all the way into the pack is a breeze.  

Our C&C 37/40+ seems to outperform a lot of boats out here in the light Florida 
air, and points like a dream.  We're having a bit of an issue getting top hull 
speed however, probably due to the 3 blade prop which I will probably replace 
when it comes out of the water for a bottom job sometime next year.
Overall, we are thrilled with the boat, and are very glad we didn't go down the 
road of a Catalina 380 (which we also liked due to the stern berth).
As with Josh, please feel free to give me a call with any questions, Bruce 
Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 To: C&C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Sent: Monday, July 9, 2018 1:36 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?
   
Chuck,
First let me say that I love my 37+ (tall mast wing keel).  The queen sized 
birth in the aft and the standup shower along with the PHRF of 75 all make for 
a great combination.  The very deep, partially balanced rudder means that 
getting rounded up is virtually impossible.
Now on to the dirt:
I don't have a lot to compare to and certainly no other 37/40s but I find the 
boat to be pretty tender.  Edd Schillay has said that his boat races best with 
10 to 12 crew and most of them are rail meat.  It really seams to come down to 
mast height.  I do have the tall mast, so that could be exacerbating my 
situation but a single foot seams like it would be insignificant.  Really I 
think the standard rig is probably just about as tender.  The deepest and 
heaviest keel you can accommodate on your sailing grounds would be the best.
As for the wing keel I've never had any problems.  Supposedly, the wing keel 
can get tangled on underwater grass, plow/scoop mud, and looses pointing 
ability... I don't have a reference point to compare but I kinda perceive that 
the lighter swing keels spend much of their time up.  Even when down the 
lighter weight kinda ends up being a wash compared to the wing.  If your slip 
and sailing grounds can accommodate then seek out the deeper, heavier wing keel.
I order to accommodate the queen sized aft birth, they had to sacrifice having 
an additional quarter birth or a large lazaret on port or stbd.  Additionally, 
in order to create limited head room in the birth

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 150, Issue 37

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Not sure how this go here please ignore



From: Rod Stright 
Sent: July-10-18 8:31 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: 'Tom Buscaglia' 
Subject: RE: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 150, Issue 37



Shipping around $35 USD, delivery time 5 -7 days.



Rod



From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: July-10-18 12:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia mailto:t...@sv-alera.com> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 150, Issue 37



Ben at Gartside Marine Engines did an inspection on Alera last summer when I 
had an overheating issue.  By the time a sailed and then was towed into Van 
Isle Marina in Sidney BC, the water flow recovered on  its own.  But he was 
very thorough, extremely knowledgeable and had an ear for diesels.  So, I 
decided to take a day or two out of our cruise north this year to have him do 
the mounts and my semi annual service.



He swears by Poly Flex mounts out of Australia.   IMO, Aussie sailing stuff is 
usually topnotch.  Cheaper than the Yanmar ones too.. so, that’s what I’ll be 
getting.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660




On Jul 9, 2018, at 7:49 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2018 22:33:00 -0400
From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine mounts
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Tom,

The original Yanmar mounts have a fatal flaw in that if the rubber degrades
it can tear and leave the engine un mounted.  Some race regulations
actually require wire or chain ties to restrain the top and bottom parts
should the rubber fail.  PYI makes a replacement mount which is positively
captured so that even if the rubber breaks down the mount can't separate.
The leading cause of the rubber to fail is fuel saturation.  The PYI mounts
are designed with a metal shroud to shield the rubber.

I ran into Yanmar mounts that were soft enough that the thrust of the prop
drove the engine forward.  There was enough movement that it opened up the
dripless shaft seal.  Granted the seal was old and needed tightened or
replaced but it was still quite telling to see the fountain of water.  I
would guess that the engine was shifting about 1/2".  PYI calls the Yanmar
mounts "marshmallow mounts" and they are designed as such to minimize noise
and vibration.  I can't sat that I'm upset by the noise and vibration of
the PYI mounts.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 8:49 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > wrote:



I just made an appointment to get them all replaced in a few weeks.  I

found a great machinists in Sidney BC.  Superior work and currency exchange

discount.





Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660





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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Water tanks pressure pump

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Is this the black and orange 4 port manifold? If so, each side of the knobs
has either a round part or a pointed part at the end. The orientation is
vertically, with the pointed part up for open, or the rounded end for
closed.

If they're sideways it will not work.

I ended up removing mine to get a better look. The difference in the ends
is subtle, so I used a marker to mark the pointed ends black.

On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 9:09 AM Maurice Poulin via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> As new owners of our C&C 30 mkii, we were out for a first weekend and had
> a ball.  Very comfortable and loads of fun on the water was our overall
> appraisal!  But we did run into a bit of a snag and I turn to the board for
> assistance hopefully.
>
> The boat has two tanks and we ran out of water on the forward tank pretty
> much on our last evening so switched over to the second tank but never
> could get the pump to prime and draw water from the second tank and charge
> up the lines. Checked all connections and no leaks, plenty of water in the
> settee tank, checked strainer on the pump all okay. Both tank connect to
> this distribution gizmo with assorted ball valves that connects to the pump
> and from there to the galley and head.  As the boat is new to me, I suspect
> I may not be working this gizmo thing correctly, not opening up the correct
> valves or maybe closing them while thinking I am opening them. I see on the
> valve handles that one side is pointed while the other side is round,
> possibly indicating on and off? Anyways, confusion and the fear of running
> down the batteries to troubleshoot stopped me from tearing this thing
> apart! I figured I would ask questions before doing exploratory work at the
> dock!  What should I be doing appropriately to switch from tanks or can you
> run both tanks together, or not?
>
> Alternately, the pump seemed to be not priming but I thought it was a self
> priming pump perhaps I am mistaken in that, so how do you prime a pump
> would be an alternate question?
>
> Thank you all from this newbie that had a hand pump at the galley
> previously!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Maurice Poulin
> C&C 30 MKII, Monoloy
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 150, Issue 37

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Shipping around $35 USD, delivery time 5 -7 days.



Rod



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List
Sent: July-10-18 12:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 150, Issue 37



Ben at Gartside Marine Engines did an inspection on Alera last summer when I 
had an overheating issue.  By the time a sailed and then was towed into Van 
Isle Marina in Sidney BC, the water flow recovered on  its own.  But he was 
very thorough, extremely knowledgeable and had an ear for diesels.  So, I 
decided to take a day or two out of our cruise north this year to have him do 
the mounts and my semi annual service.



He swears by Poly Flex mounts out of Australia.   IMO, Aussie sailing stuff is 
usually topnotch.  Cheaper than the Yanmar ones too.. so, that’s what I’ll be 
getting.

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660




On Jul 9, 2018, at 7:49 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2018 22:33:00 -0400
From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine mounts
Message-ID:
   mailto:CA+zaCRAAsQdRfd6DhEar3F_Yu+y2=-h8=qdkuvk9zbzfr0d...@mail.gmail.com> >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Tom,

The original Yanmar mounts have a fatal flaw in that if the rubber degrades
it can tear and leave the engine un mounted.  Some race regulations
actually require wire or chain ties to restrain the top and bottom parts
should the rubber fail.  PYI makes a replacement mount which is positively
captured so that even if the rubber breaks down the mount can't separate.
The leading cause of the rubber to fail is fuel saturation.  The PYI mounts
are designed with a metal shroud to shield the rubber.

I ran into Yanmar mounts that were soft enough that the thrust of the prop
drove the engine forward.  There was enough movement that it opened up the
dripless shaft seal.  Granted the seal was old and needed tightened or
replaced but it was still quite telling to see the fountain of water.  I
would guess that the engine was shifting about 1/2".  PYI calls the Yanmar
mounts "marshmallow mounts" and they are designed as such to minimize noise
and vibration.  I can't sat that I'm upset by the noise and vibration of
the PYI mounts.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Jul 9, 2018, 8:49 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com  > wrote:




I just made an appointment to get them all replaced in a few weeks.  I

found a great machinists in Sidney BC.  Superior work and currency exchange

discount.





Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660





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https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray