Re: Stus-List Winter storage CT

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Fort Rachel Marine in Mystic
Great folks - do anything you want by yourself or they will be glad to do it 
for you (for a fee of course).  Great mechanic and fiberglass repair on site 
(separate businesses)  Have rental vacuum orbital sanders for bottom. 
Reasonable pricing.  Very protected.  Very knowledgeable about handling boats.  
Great restaurant / bar next door (Daniel Packer Inn) 5 minutes from I-95.  Been 
storing on the hard for 30+ years.  Nuff said


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail
Subject: Stus-List Winter storage CT

CT shoreline. I know there’s many but any recommendations for winter storage on 
the hard? Maybe one that allows me to do work. 
We’re in Stamford now. 
Jon Pratt
Hideaway 
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Winter storage CT

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

Branford Landing (203-483-6544) up the Branford River is a small, basic  but 
friendly yard that allows owners to do their own work.  No real amenities 
though there is a restaurant in the yard and a brewery / pub next door.  Chris 
Anderson [owner / manager] is great to work with the few times I have needed 
some extra help, and for scheduling hauling / launching timing.  

If you want the full list of amenities, Bruce and Johnson [part of Brewers and 
now Safe Harbor] is closer to the mouth of the Branford River and has it all, 
and one might guess the pricing to go along with it.  Very friendly and 
attentive staff.  Do not know how much they allow owners to work on their 
boats.  

Brian

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of JP Mail via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail 
Subject: Stus-List Winter storage CT

CT shoreline. I know there’s many but any recommendations for winter storage on 
the hard? Maybe one that allows me to do work. 
We’re in Stamford now. 
Jon Pratt
Hideaway 
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 163, Issue 46

[Opt online via CnC-List]

Captains Cove in Bridgeport allows you to do all your own work 

Rich Hulit
917 854-5537
rhhu...@optonline.net
Sent from my iPhone please excuse typos

> On Aug 15, 2019, at 3:17 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  Winter storage CT (Edd Schillay)
>   2. Re:  plugged engine water intake (J.R. Farrar)
>   3. Re:  plugged engine water intake (Josh Muckley)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2019 14:10:15 -0400
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter storage CT
> Message-ID: <2b035138-64e2-4062-bea0-6aa85d3d6...@schillay.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Jon,
> 
> No yard anywhere will let you do work on the hull. 
> 
> Suggest you do what I did ? move south. Now I only haul the boat once every 5 
> years to slap some paint on and then back to sailing a couple of days later. 
> 
> Winter storage? Rather be winter sailing. 
> 
> All the best, 
> 
> Edd
> 
> ???-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the ?Starship Enterprise?
> C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ???-
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ???-
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> 
> On Aug 15, 2019, at 1:06 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> CT shoreline. I know there?s many but any recommendations for winter storage 
> on the hard? Maybe one that allows me to do work. 
> We?re in Stamford now. 
> Jon Pratt
> Hideaway 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20190815/eede155a/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 15 Aug 2019 14:53:32 -0400
> From: "J.R. Farrar" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List plugged engine water intake
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Sucked up a snake of seaweed into the seacock and hose once. Had to remove
> the line between the seacock and strainer to get everything out as it was
> snaked in there pretty good.  Once I got the hose off and seacock cleaned I
> just closed it.  Hooked everything back up and opened it again.  BTW just
> found this little gem of an item.
> http://www.borelmfg.com/store/details.asp?cscpid=693  and recently
> installed it.  Thoughts are is I will get an advanced alarm to this and
> other situations before the engine gets to overheat too much.
> 
> J.R. Farrar
> 1985 C 33-2
> Erie, PA
> 
> 
> On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:16 AM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
>> I removed the intake hose from the strainer, ensured it was above the
>> waterline and then attached the foot pump from my dinghy. Blows anything
>> out, and the bubbling confirms no blockage.
>> Cheers,
>> Paul
>> 
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of David
>> Knecht via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* August 9, 2019 4:44:18 AM
>> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
>> *Cc:* David Knecht 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List plugged engine water intake
>> 
>> Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the water
>> tank for showers.  When we started the engine the next morning, I noticed
>> the sound of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few
>> minutes later the engine began to overheat.  We re-anchored and I went
>> below to check the strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, but not
>> enough to plug it up.  My wife (bless her heart) dove in and saw a big
>> clump of seaweek attached to th

Re: Stus-List plugged engine water intake

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I like that!  It seems like a good price too.  I was looking for
installation instructions and would be interested to hear how it goes for
you.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Thu, Aug 15, 2019, 2:54 PM J.R. Farrar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Sucked up a snake of seaweed into the seacock and hose once. Had to remove
> the line between the seacock and strainer to get everything out as it was
> snaked in there pretty good.  Once I got the hose off and seacock cleaned I
> just closed it.  Hooked everything back up and opened it again.  BTW just
> found this little gem of an item.
> http://www.borelmfg.com/store/details.asp?cscpid=693  and recently
> installed it.  Thoughts are is I will get an advanced alarm to this and
> other situations before the engine gets to overheat too much.
>
> J.R. Farrar
> 1985 C 33-2
> Erie, PA
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:16 AM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I removed the intake hose from the strainer, ensured it was above the
>> waterline and then attached the foot pump from my dinghy. Blows anything
>> out, and the bubbling confirms no blockage.
>> Cheers,
>> Paul
>>
>> --
>> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of David
>> Knecht via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* August 9, 2019 4:44:18 AM
>> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
>> *Cc:* David Knecht 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List plugged engine water intake
>>
>> Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the water
>> tank for showers.  When we started the engine the next morning, I noticed
>> the sound of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few
>> minutes later the engine began to overheat.  We re-anchored and I went
>> below to check the strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, but not
>> enough to plug it up.  My wife (bless her heart) dove in and saw a big
>> clump of seaweek attached to the hull where the intake should be.  She
>> managed to clear it and we got under way with no more trouble.  One lesson
>> is to be careful of running the engine when the boat is at rest as I am
>> sure you are much more likely to suck stuff into the intake as opposed to
>> when the boat is moving at 6 knots (that has never happened to me).  But
>> the experience got me thinking about how to resolve the problem of a
>> plugged intake without swimming.  Is it possible to take the basket out of
>> the water intake strainer and run something flexible and stiff down the
>> tube and clear the intake without diving?  I am thinking of stiff wire or
>> something like the fiberglass snake I use for running wires through small
>> spaces. Anyone done this successfully?   Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List plugged engine water intake

[J.R. Farrar via CnC-List]

Sucked up a snake of seaweed into the seacock and hose once. Had to remove
the line between the seacock and strainer to get everything out as it was
snaked in there pretty good.  Once I got the hose off and seacock cleaned I
just closed it.  Hooked everything back up and opened it again.  BTW just
found this little gem of an item.
http://www.borelmfg.com/store/details.asp?cscpid=693  and recently
installed it.  Thoughts are is I will get an advanced alarm to this and
other situations before the engine gets to overheat too much.

J.R. Farrar
1985 C 33-2
Erie, PA


On Mon, Aug 12, 2019 at 4:16 AM Paul Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed the intake hose from the strainer, ensured it was above the
> waterline and then attached the foot pump from my dinghy. Blows anything
> out, and the bubbling confirms no blockage.
> Cheers,
> Paul
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of David
> Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* August 9, 2019 4:44:18 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
> *Cc:* David Knecht 
> *Subject:* Stus-List plugged engine water intake
>
> Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the water
> tank for showers.  When we started the engine the next morning, I noticed
> the sound of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure enough, a few
> minutes later the engine began to overheat.  We re-anchored and I went
> below to check the strainer basket which had a bit of grass in it, but not
> enough to plug it up.  My wife (bless her heart) dove in and saw a big
> clump of seaweek attached to the hull where the intake should be.  She
> managed to clear it and we got under way with no more trouble.  One lesson
> is to be careful of running the engine when the boat is at rest as I am
> sure you are much more likely to suck stuff into the intake as opposed to
> when the boat is moving at 6 knots (that has never happened to me).  But
> the experience got me thinking about how to resolve the problem of a
> plugged intake without swimming.  Is it possible to take the basket out of
> the water intake strainer and run something flexible and stiff down the
> tube and clear the intake without diving?  I am thinking of stiff wire or
> something like the fiberglass snake I use for running wires through small
> spaces. Anyone done this successfully?   Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winter storage CT

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Jon,

No yard anywhere will let you do work on the hull. 

Suggest you do what I did — move south. Now I only haul the boat once every 5 
years to slap some paint on and then back to sailing a couple of days later. 

Winter storage? Rather be winter sailing. 

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 15, 2019, at 1:06 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  wrote:

CT shoreline. I know there’s many but any recommendations for winter storage on 
the hard? Maybe one that allows me to do work. 
We’re in Stamford now. 
Jon Pratt
Hideaway 
Sent from my iPhone
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Thanks Neil, have a harbor freight in Ludibgton
On Thursday, August 15, 2019 schiller via CnC-List  
wrote:
 Bill,
 
 Harbor Freight is your friend.  Stop by the Muskegon HF and pick up a $5 set 
of picks.  You should be able to get one of the angled picks into the pin hole. 
 I have a set on the boat if you want to come down to Whitehall this weekend.
 
 Neil Schiller
 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
 Whitehall, Michigan
 WLYC
 
  On 8/15/2019 8:40 AM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote:
  
 

Same problem here...
 
Bill Walker
 CnC 36
 
 
 On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
  #yiv0481670963 html {background-color:transparent !important;}#yiv0481670963 
body {background-color:transparent 
!important;color:#333;line-height:150%;margin:0;}#yiv0481670963 
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{display:block;color:#999;padding:20px 0px;text-decoration:none;}#yiv0481670963 
.yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-availability-container 
{max-width:500px;margin:auto;padding:12px 15px 15px 15px;border:1px solid 
#C7E0F4;border-radius:4px;}#yiv0481670963 #yiv0481670963 
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{width:25px;min-height:25px;background-size:25px 
25px;background-position:center;}#yiv0481670963 
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0;margin-top:120;padding:8;}#yiv0481670963 
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{padding:0;padding-top:12;padding-bottom:20;}#yiv0481670963 
.yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-mention 
{color:#333;background-color:#f1f1f1;border-radius:4px;padding:0 2px 0 
2px;text-decoration:none;}#yiv0481670963 
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{color:#ba8f0d;background-color:#fdf7e7;}#yiv0481670963 
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{color:#ba8f0d;background-color:#f1f1f1;} #yiv0481670963 
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!important;}#yiv0481670963 .yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-dark-mode 
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!important;}#yiv0481670963 .yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-dark-mode a:not 
{color:#0086F0;}#yiv0481670963 #yiv0481670963 #yiv0481670963 {color:#E1E1E1 
!important;}#yiv0481670963 .yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-dark-mode 
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!important;}#yiv0481670963 .yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-dark-mode 
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.yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-dark-mode 
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.yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-availability-border {border-top:1px solid #0086F0 
!important;}#yiv0481670963 #yiv0481670963 
.yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-availability-delete-button {}#yiv0481670963 
.yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-dark-mode .yiv0481670963ms-outlook-ios-mention 
{color:#A8A8AC !important;background-color:#292929 !important;}   Hello all, 
  One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin 
holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he forgot to  move 
the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole 
once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with the top of the 
car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I 
would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with this situation 
before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard 
on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions! 
  Jim Reinardy C 30-2 “Firewater” Milwaukee, WI 
  Get Outlook for iOS___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
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 ___

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Stus-List Winter storage CT

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

CT shoreline. I know there’s many but any recommendations for winter storage on 
the hard? Maybe one that allows me to do work. 
We’re in Stamford now. 
Jon Pratt
Hideaway 
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Also interested in where the heck you put the batteries - like Michael, I 
stopped with 2x group 31 plus a start battery.  I think I could cut out the 
existing battery shelf and maybe gain a few more amp hours with an 
incrementally larger footprint/height but that’s it.

Agreed on some of the other points for sure - battery management strategy is 
documented in the link I sent previously.

Dave 
Windstar 33-2


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 15, 2019, at 10:47 AM, Catherine & Michael . 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> We recently updated the 12V system on our 33-2 this year.  We reached out to 
> an ABYC marine electrician for advice about our plan.
> 
> I won't re-hash other thoughts in the previous emails, but my two cents:
> 
> - Connections are often an issue and the first place to look. Connections may 
> visually appear in good condition, but a loose connection can be an issue. 
> 
> - House and starter battery should never be able to see each other. A large 
> house bank at 60% charge connected to a fully charged starting battery can 
> draw a lot of current over the circuit from of the starting battery to the 
> house and make it difficult to start... Our electrician recommended we put a 
> battery management panel in place with two battery switches so the two 
> batteries remain independent and if the starter battery dies, we could adjust 
> the switch to start using the house isolating the starting battery from the 
> circuit completely.  
> 
> - Our starting battery gets charge via a Xantrex Echo Charge and all of our 
> charging inputs go directly to the house (solar, battery charger, alternator, 
> etc).  This again is to make sure the house and starting batteries are 
> isolated and the most amount of energy can be put into the largest battery 
> bank. 
> 
> One thing I would like to know is how you got the 4-Trojan's in place... We 
> looked at changing our battery arrangement and decided it was too hard so our 
> house is 2-G31 batteries with an isolated G24 starting battery.  One big plus 
> of this change is that the engine fires up on the first go where it used to 
> take 2-3 tries to get her going when cold. 
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Michael Egberts 
> theegbertsfam...@gmail.com
> Big Lou - C 33-2
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 9:33 AM Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Good luck with the troubleshooting.  
>> Can’t recall if I responded with this but some 33-2 electrical info and 
>> photos here
>> 
>> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1
>> 
>> Dave 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Aug 14, 2019, at 8:46 AM, Wade Glew  wrote:
>>> 
>>> thank you to all who responded to my email.  I wont be back to the boat for 
>>> a couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and 
>>> suggestions of a plan to go forwards.  Thanks again, will let you know how 
>>> it goes
>>> Wade 
>>> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>>> 
 On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 My 2 cents. 
 Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad 
 connection, likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal 
 house circuits cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another 
 bad connection but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop 
 the voltage enough that things stop working but the start current drops 
 the voltage to much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with 
 low amps there is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the 
 current and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm 
 resistance and your gonna drop 6V.  Put a voltmeter there with no load it 
 will read 12V. 
 Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at 
 the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the 
 voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the 
 issue is in the hot path. 
 
 
 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Jeff Helsdingen 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: 
> Bcc: 
> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all 
> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery 
> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" 
> problem I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem 
> as well but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added 
> can suddenly become undersized quickly too.
> 
> Jeff Helsdingen
> Caposhi
> C 35 mk 1 #54
> Port Stanley On.
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough 
>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be 
>> adversely 

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Neil,

I forgot about things like missile contacts.  Perfect example though.  In a
similar way the 13kv, 4kv,and 480v breakers that I regularly work with all
have "stabs" that engage and disengage the bus bars.  All of them have a
lubricant applied.  I don't know anything about the chemical components in
that particular lubricant/grease but it is brownish tan, transparent, and
not sticky like tef-gel.

Josh

On Thu, Aug 15, 2019, 10:04 AM schiller via CnC-List 
wrote:

> OK guys, here is an explanation from my Missile Control days.  What the
> Tefgel is doing is acting as a "faying surface" sealant.  Big words for
> describing that the Tefgel is filling in all of the crevices between the
> actual contact points.  Remember that there is no such thing as a smooth
> surface.  The lug is contacting the post on several high points of the
> surface and the Tefgel is keeping moisture and contaminants from getting in
> between.
>
> We used faying surface sealants on most of the joints subject to corrosion
> on most of the munitions that I was involved with.  Sometimes it was
> loctite sometimes it was poly-imide epoxy primer, sometimes it was just a
> non silicone surface sealant.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
>
> "Actually, I am a rocket scientist"
>
> On 8/15/2019 9:46 AM, Bailey White via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
> Thinking about Tef-gel and recommended practices by experienced people, I
> once coated my trailer lighting harness connector for a small boat with
> lanocote.  My thoughts were as the prior posters, that it would keep away
> future corrosion and perhaps improve connections.
>
> I tested the fitting after I applied lanocote and found the trailer lights
> no longer worked and I needed to try to replace the harness as cleaning was
> very difficult.
>
> I wonder if the pressure of a more fixed connection is the differentiator
> for connectivity with these kinds of coatings or if Tef-gel is superior?
>
> Bailey White
> C 36-1
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Catherine & Michael . via CnC-List]

We recently updated the 12V system on our 33-2 this year.  We reached out
to an ABYC marine electrician for advice about our plan.

I won't re-hash other thoughts in the previous emails, but my two cents:

- Connections are often an issue and the first place to look. Connections
may visually appear in good condition, but a loose connection can be an
issue.

- House and starter battery should never be able to see each other. A large
house bank at 60% charge connected to a fully charged starting battery can
draw a lot of current over the circuit from of the starting battery to the
house and make it difficult to start... Our electrician recommended we put
a battery management panel in place with two battery switches so the two
batteries remain independent and if the starter battery dies, we could
adjust the switch to start using the house isolating the starting battery
from the circuit completely.

- Our starting battery gets charge via a Xantrex Echo Charge and all of our
charging inputs go directly to the house (solar, battery charger,
alternator, etc).  This again is to make sure the house and starting
batteries are isolated and the most amount of energy can be put into the
largest battery bank.

One thing I would like to know is how you got the 4-Trojan's in place... We
looked at changing our battery arrangement and decided it was too hard so
our house is 2-G31 batteries with an isolated G24 starting battery.  One
big plus of this change is that the engine fires up on the first go where
it used to take 2-3 tries to get her going when cold.

Cheers,

Michael Egberts
theegbertsfam...@gmail.com
Big Lou - C 33-2


On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 9:33 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Good luck with the troubleshooting.
> Can’t recall if I responded with this but some 33-2 electrical info and
> photos here
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 14, 2019, at 8:46 AM, Wade Glew  wrote:
>
> thank you to all who responded to my email.  I wont be back to the boat
> for a couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and
> suggestions of a plan to go forwards.  Thanks again, will let you know how
> it goes
> Wade
> Oh Boy C 33 MK II
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My 2 cents.
>> Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad
>> connection, likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal house
>> circuits cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another bad
>> connection but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop the
>> voltage enough that things stop working but the start current drops the
>> voltage to much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with low
>> amps there is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the current
>> and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm resistance
>> and your gonna drop 6V.  Put a voltmeter there with no load it will read
>> 12V.
>> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at
>> the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the
>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the
>> issue is in the hot path.
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>>> From: Jeff Helsdingen 
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc:
>>> Bcc:
>>> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
>>> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all
>>> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery
>>> through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem
>>> I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
>>> but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly
>>> become undersized quickly too.
>>>
>>> Jeff Helsdingen
>>> Caposhi
>>> C 35 mk 1 #54
>>> Port Stanley On.
>>>
>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
 current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
 adversely affected by bad ground continuity.

 — Fred

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

 On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Clean all the ground connections.

 Dennis C.

 On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
> electrical issue du jour.
>
> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring
> system.  Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5
> years old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery 

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[schiller via CnC-List]

OK guys, here is an explanation from my Missile Control days.  What the 
Tefgel is doing is acting as a "faying surface" sealant.  Big words for 
describing that the Tefgel is filling in all of the crevices between the 
actual contact points. Remember that there is no such thing as a smooth 
surface.  The lug is contacting the post on several high points of the 
surface and the Tefgel is keeping moisture and contaminants from getting 
in between.


We used faying surface sealants on most of the joints subject to 
corrosion on most of the munitions that I was involved with. Sometimes 
it was loctite sometimes it was poly-imide epoxy primer, sometimes it 
was just a non silicone surface sealant.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

"Actually, I am a rocket scientist"

On 8/15/2019 9:46 AM, Bailey White via CnC-List wrote:


Thinking about Tef-gel and recommended practices by experienced 
people, I once coated my trailer lighting harness connector for a 
small boat with lanocote. My thoughts were as the prior posters, that 
it would keep away future corrosion and perhaps improve connections.


I tested the fitting after I applied lanocote and found the trailer 
lights no longer worked and I needed to try to replace the harness as 
cleaning was very difficult.


I wonder if the pressure of a more fixed connection is the 
differentiator for connectivity with these kinds of coatings or if 
Tef-gel is superior?


Bailey White
C 36-1

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Oddly enough, trailer connections are one of the "electrical plugs" which I
have mashed silicone dielectric grease into.  I never had a trailer light
problem that could be traced to the connectors.  Maybe, in your case
Bailey, it had something to do with it being lanocote?

Josh


On Thu, Aug 15, 2019, 9:47 AM Bailey White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Thinking about Tef-gel and recommended practices by experienced people, I
> once coated my trailer lighting harness connector for a small boat with
> lanocote.  My thoughts were as the prior posters, that it would keep away
> future corrosion and perhaps improve connections.
>
> I tested the fitting after I applied lanocote and found the trailer lights
> no longer worked and I needed to try to replace the harness as cleaning was
> very difficult.
>
> I wonder if the pressure of a more fixed connection is the differentiator
> for connectivity with these kinds of coatings or if Tef-gel is superior?
>
> Bailey White
> C 36-1
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[schiller via CnC-List]

Bill,

Harbor Freight is your friend.  Stop by the Muskegon HF and pick up a $5 
set of picks.  You should be able to get one of the angled picks into 
the pin hole.  I have a set on the boat if you want to come down to 
Whitehall this weekend.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 8/15/2019 8:40 AM, WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List wrote:


Same problem here...

Bill Walker
CnC 36




On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hello all,

One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the 
pin holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he 
forgot to move the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the 
pin down into the hole once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is 
now flush with the top of the car.  Fortunately, the car is in a 
commonly used place, but at some point I would like to be able to move 
it again.  Anybody dealt with this situation before?   This is our 
30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard on these 
boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!


Jim Reinardy
C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

There may be a complex, microscopic explanation. But the short answer I picked 
up as an ME and in years of being a technical trainer is that the action of 
crimping, staging, etc. to get a tight connection forces the dielectric out of 
the way and gives connectivity through metal to metal contact. The dielectric 
remains in the voids between wire and fitting (or screw and mast) and among the 
wire strands to prevent incursion of moisture and atmosphere that cause 
corrosion.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

> On Aug 14, 2019, at 12:52, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> This question has been asked before.  Yes, it seems counter-intuitive that a 
> Teflon or silicone coating would conduct a current.  I vaguely recall one of 
> the more technically oriented listers answering the question about 15-20 
> years ago.  Something about the interstitial spaces being coated at a 
> microscopic level and the electrons aligning in lockstep or something.  I'm 
> not being facetious, it really was something like that.  
> 
> All I know is it works.  Like you, I've measured ohms before and after 
> application of Tefgel with little change indicated. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 11:23 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Dennis, 
>> 
>> This question came up at work the other day.  I do the same as you, coat the 
>> connections then attach.  Battery manufacturers and, in my case, the PM 
>> schedule for batteries at a nuclear power plant both state scrubbing the 
>> connections, coating them, wiping clean, then making the connection.  In 
>> this case they are using silicone dielectric grease but the concept is the 
>> same.  In my own practice I really don't bother to wipe the connections 
>> clean.  The question is, if the Tef-gel and Silicone are both dielectric 
>> (non-conductive) and cover the mating surfaces then how is the electrical 
>> connection made?  Why does it not increase the resistance of the connection 
>> - or does it, but just to an insignificant extent?  My ohm meter reads zero. 
>>  I've smashed the grease into electrical connectors and even outlets for 
>> weather, water, and corrosion protection with absolutely no indication of a 
>> problem and always assumed that the metal to metal interface just punched 
>> through the dielectric and that any insignificant increase in the resistance 
>> must be dwarfed by that of the risk of corrosion.
>> 
>> Are you aware of any resistance tests being done or of devices capable of 
>> detecting if ultra-low resistance is being created?
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 11:48 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Superlube will NOT work.
>>> 
>>> I put TefGel on all metal to metal contact points.  That is, before I crimp 
>>> a connector on a wire, I coat the wire with TefGel.  Then I coat the ring 
>>> connector or male/female disconnect with TefGel before attaching it to a 
>>> terminal block, breaker, or whatever.
>>> 
>>> My buddy and I have about 40 years of collective experience in marine 
>>> electrical.  Neither of us has ever had a corrosion related failure on any 
>>> connection coated with TefGel.
>>> 
>>> TefGel is also a good dissimilar metal corrosion coating.  We use it, or 
>>> threadlocker, on any stainless into aluminum fastening.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
 On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 10:24 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Dennis,
 Do you put the TefGel on the battery connecting surfaces or coat the 
 surfaces after all connections are made?  Would Superlube work the same?
 Wade 
 Oh Boy C 33 MKII 
 
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019, 13:47 Dennis C. via CnC-List, 
>  wrote:
> Best to disconnect all the battery cables both positive and negative, 
> clean them and reconnect them.  Get yourself some Ultra Safety Systems 
> TefGel 
> (https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=546)
>  and coat the connections with it.  Clean both ends of the cables.
> 
> Like Fred said, measuring voltage is only part of the story.  You're 
> really looking for current.  A corroded connection may show adequate 
> voltage but may be incapable of passing enough current to start your 
> engine.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 1:34 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> thanks you.
>> 
>> Ok,  I'll get a volt meter to check the batteries directly.  
>>  if I'm to check all the grounds, I take this to mean:  follow the 
>> batteries back to wherever the system grounds to the engine block to 
>> begin with.  Then each of the battery terminals and finally to where the 
>> battery banks come to the main ground bus?   I'm really a rookie with 
>> electrical stuff so be specific if you can.
>> 
>> Wade 
>> Oh Boy C 33 

Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Bailey White via CnC-List]

Thinking about Tef-gel and recommended practices by experienced people, I
once coated my trailer lighting harness connector for a small boat with
lanocote.  My thoughts were as the prior posters, that it would keep away
future corrosion and perhaps improve connections.

I tested the fitting after I applied lanocote and found the trailer lights
no longer worked and I needed to try to replace the harness as cleaning was
very difficult.

I wonder if the pressure of a more fixed connection is the differentiator
for connectivity with these kinds of coatings or if Tef-gel is superior?

Bailey White
C 36-1
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Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Tom, can you be more descriptive?  Blade between track and bottom of car?
Bill Walker 
On Thursday, August 15, 2019 sancton.tom via CnC-List  
wrote:
Had the same thing happen to me this week. Took the edge of a knife and pried 
up the pin enough to move it out of the hole and then inserted the pin back 
through the hole. Took maybe 5 minutes
Good luck
Tom SanctonM/S MORNING LIGHTDYC









Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 2019-08-15 12:11 AM (GMT-04:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Merriman Car stuck 
The car is most likely not special and easily replaced.  If push comes to shove 
an angle grinder will make short work of the car and allow for removal.
Short of destroying the car I would attempt to slip a thin dental pick down the 
slot between the pin and the car.  Try to catch the hole in the pin for the 
ring.  Maybe, maybe not.  If it is a tight interface then probably not.  You 
could also try drilling and tapping the pin so that you can put a small machine 
screw in it and then use pliers to pull the pin out.  I imagine that the pin 
may try to spin as the drill bit or tap begins to bite.  To help prevent this 
attach a line to the car so as to side load it and put pressure on the pin 
against the track hole.
Good luck, 
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD 


On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:32 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Hello all,
One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin 
holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he forgot to move 
the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole 
once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with the top of the 
car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I 
would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with this situation 
before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard 
on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 
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Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Same problem here...

Bill Walker
CnC 36
On Wednesday, August 14, 2019 Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
wrote:
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#C7E0F4;border-radius:4px;}#yiv8457587910 
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25px;background-position:center;}#yiv8457587910 
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2px;text-decoration:none;}#yiv8457587910 
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.yiv8457587910ms-outlook-ios-dark-mode .yiv8457587910ms-outlook-ios-mention 
{color:#A8A8AC !important;background-color:#292929 !important;}  Hello all,
One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent ring on the pin 
holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he forgot to move 
the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down into the hole 
once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with the top of the 
car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at some point I 
would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with this situation 
before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were standard 
on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 
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Stus-List Icom RIP

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have had an Icom IC-M1V HT for over 15 years. It is the best radio I ever 
had, but lately the battery has been going dead quickly. I bought a new battery 
for it for $90 and that battery showed up DEAD and won’t charge ☹ I think some 
EBay sellers got a hold of a bunch of never used but decades-old batteries. I 
will have to just buy a new radio now.
If anyone has a good battery for one of these I’ll send you the radio.

Joe
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Merriman Car stuck

[sancton.tom via CnC-List]

Had the same thing happen to me this week. Took the edge of a knife and pried 
up the pin enough to move it out of the hole and then inserted the pin back 
through the hole. Took maybe 5 minutesGood luckTom SanctonM/S MORNING 
LIGHTDYCSent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 2019-08-15  12:11 AM  (GMT-04:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Merriman Car stuck The car is most likely not special and easily 
replaced.  If push comes to shove an angle grinder will make short work of the 
car and allow for removal.Short of destroying the car I would attempt to slip a 
thin dental pick down the slot between the pin and the car.  Try to catch the 
hole in the pin for the ring.  Maybe, maybe not.  If it is a tight interface 
then probably not.  You could also try drilling and tapping the pin so that you 
can put a small machine screw in it and then use pliers to pull the pin out.  I 
imagine that the pin may try to spin as the drill bit or tap begins to bite.  
To help prevent this attach a line to the car so as to side load it and put 
pressure on the pin against the track hole.Good luck, Josh Muckley S/V Sea 
Hawk1989 C 37+Solomons, MD On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:32 PM Jim Reinardy via 
CnC-List  wrote:


Hello all,One of my crew decided to help out by changing out a bent 
ring on the pin holding the jib car in place on the track.  Unfortunately, he 
forgot to move the car away from the hole and the spring retracted the pin down 
into the hole once the ring was off.   The  top of the pin is now flush with 
the top of the car.  Fortunately, the car is in a commonly used place, but at 
some point I would like to be able to move it again.  Anybody dealt with this 
situation before?   This is our 30-2 with Merriman jib cars that I believe were 
standard on these boats.  Thanks for any suggestions!Jim ReinardyC 30-2 
“Firewater”Milwaukee, WI

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