Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
Good to see progress wade. Some comments: Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:21 AM, Wade Glew wrote: > > So a little update re the electrical issues on Oh Boy. > > battery (Batt 2) at 12.7 V. Each of the four Trojans in Batt1 bank measured > 6.41V. Good > > adding labels to them for future reference. Good - are you learning to read the factory schematic diagram? It’s a very useful map. > Except for the starter 12V battery, all connections felt tight with no > surface corrosion (for whatever that's worth) > including the grounds on the engine block. > I then took apart the starter 12V battery connections, cleaned the terminals > then stripped the wires and added new connectors. The factory terminations are generally quite reliable, more so than typical hand crimped connections. . For sure replace a problem connection but you’re likely ok to leave well enough alone (clean it) if it’s in good condition. > Used the Tef Gel (thanks for that recommendation Dennis C) and now the > starter battery and charging system seem to work perfectly. You should see over 13.5 volts when charging, 14.5 ish when the alternator is charging. > > Curiously, I could not find a ground wire from the starter to the engine > ground so I The engine and its various bits are a lump of metal and are ‘grounded’ via the big battery negative attached to the transmission. All good. Starter solenoid ground braid - Clean if absolutely necessary and leave it. > I , every since I've had the boat, pressing the starter button sometimes > produces a click but does not engage the starter. Two or three tries usually > makes the starter engage and the engine then starts just fine. Keep at what you are doing and Make sure you check the connections at the engine control panel as well. (Easy) This was a problem on mine, and I had to repair a diy termination plus I found some loose terminal screws. It had created an intermittent issue with the key switch. > > After all this, the engine starts but still feels sluggish to turn over so i > think, as Garry suggested, there were two problems. I arter 12V battery but > which of the four Trojan negative terminals would I put the Voltmeter on or > does it matter? Make sure all those connections are sound. Which battery Doesn’t matter provided those connections are sound. Just get a big alligator clip for your ‘ -‘ probe lead, clamp it to a good ground. Your voltage at rest is one thing, voltage (and current) under load another. (Fred mentions this below - adequate current) Make sure your batteries are topped up with distilled water. How old are they? > > . I might try the ground behind the starter as Dave S recommended first, Critical termination, somewhat dissimilar metals conducting electricity, heat, high vibration what could possibly go wrong? ;-) Have fun. Dave > > Wade > Oh Boy 33 MK II > >> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 8:32 AM Dave S wrote: >> Good luck with the troubleshooting. >> Can’t recall if I responded with this but some 33-2 electrical info and >> photos here >> >> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1 >> >> Dave >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 14, 2019, at 8:46 AM, Wade Glew wrote: >>> >>> thank you to all who responded to my email. I wont be back to the boat for >>> a couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and >>> suggestions of a plan to go forwards. Thanks again, will let you know how >>> it goes >>> Wade >>> Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II >>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List wrote: My 2 cents. Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad connection, likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal house circuits cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another bad connection but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop the voltage enough that things stop working but the start current drops the voltage to much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with low amps there is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the current and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm resistance and your gonna drop 6V. Put a voltmeter there with no load it will read 12V. Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the issue is in the hot path. > -- Forwarded message -- > From: Jeff Helsdingen > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice > I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all > the ring
Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
Dave, when we did Perception for the second time we used 3/8 cast polycarbonate. I had Rob at south shore make them for me as the previous replacement damaged the frames and had used 1/4" extruded poly, which had cracked, and he had the original templates. We had them installed and the frames repaired - all is well 5 years later! You can get the material from Plastruct Polyzone in Beamsville, I have used them for the hatch board and slider. -Original Message- From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dave via CnC-List Sent: August 27, 2019 9:49 PM To: C&c Stus List Cc: syerd...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of info on adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the material. I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please confirm the thickness? (Mine are leaking, but still installed) I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate . (Can’t locate the post). Any thoughts? Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite crazed) hatches? Many Thanks in advance. Dave Windstar 33-2 Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice
To check voltage drop: On the positive side, one lead on the + of the start battery and one lead on the connection of the battery cable to the starter. On the minus side, one lead on the – of the start battery and one lead on a clean metal surface on the starter itself. Start the engine and note the reading while cranking. Joe Coquina ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
FWIW, I was told by a local glass shop expert that, although Lexan scratches more easily, it is preferred if you are concerned about weight (like a crew member) cracking the lens. I have two hatches (of five) where this is a concern. According to this expert, if you are not concerned about the weight-bearing capacity, plexiglass will hold up better over time. -Original Message- From: Paul Fountain via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 28, 2019 8:16 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Paul Fountain Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material Dave, when we did Perception for the second time we used 3/8 cast polycarbonate. I had Rob at south shore make them for me as the previous replacement damaged the frames and had used 1/4" extruded poly, which had cracked, and he had the original templates. We had them installed and the frames repaired - all is well 5 years later! You can get the material from Plastruct Polyzone in Beamsville, I have used them for the hatch board and slider. -Original Message- From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Dave via CnC-List Sent: August 27, 2019 9:49 PM To: C&c Stus List Cc: syerd...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of info on adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the material. I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please confirm the thickness? (Mine are leaking, but still installed) I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate . (Can’t locate the post). Any thoughts? Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite crazed) hatches? Many Thanks in advance. Dave Windstar 33-2 Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
Has anyone tried or have any experience with the DIY window repair kit that Dan Boisvert sells @ fixleakyboats.com? His product uses a custom fabricated marine aluminum window frame which is installed with the existing acrylic window. He posts in the C&C Facebook group. Tom Lynch IndoIrish C&C 33 MKII Bayfield WI On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 8:50 PM Dave via CnC-List wrote: > Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of > info on adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the > material. > > I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please > confirm the thickness? (Mine are leaking, but still installed) > > I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate . > (Can’t locate the post). Any thoughts? > > Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite > crazed) hatches? > > Many Thanks in advance. > > Dave > Windstar 33-2 > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
I got this kit (included frames, mounting hardware and new plexi windows) from Dan Boisvert @ fixleakyboats.com for my 33-2 in 2009. Since removal of the old windows and installing the new ones was a skill I hoped to never use again, and because I wanted someone to complain to besides myself if the new ones leaked, I had the fibreglass shop at my Marina install them. The new windows have stood up well for 10 years. Having said that, I have friends in my harbour with a C&C 32 who ordered the kit and the very same fibreglass shop had a bit##@ch of a time getting them to fit and they complained that the support from Dan was poor. After removal of the old windows, the new plexi is put into place with sealant and the frame provides compression to the seal by numerous through screws with wing nuts on the inside of the cabin. Once cured, the frames outside are calked, the wing nuts inside are removed and white nylon cap nuts are placed over the screws. Looks good from outside. It's not an awful look inside but the nuts are noticeable (to me, no one else has ever commented on them) and the shop had to re-install the accordian curtains a little higher to clear the nylon cap nuts. Overall, the cost and new appearance was well worth having a dry boat. Cost for the kit in 2009 was about $1500 CDN. I haven't looked at his website to see if there are other reviews so this is my personal experience with these kits Wade Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:07 AM Tom Lynch via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Has anyone tried or have any experience with the DIY window repair kit > that Dan Boisvert sells @ fixleakyboats.com? His product uses a custom > fabricated marine aluminum window frame which is installed with the > existing acrylic window. > > He posts in the C&C Facebook group. > > Tom Lynch > IndoIrish C&C 33 MKII > Bayfield WI > > On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 8:50 PM Dave via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of >> info on adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the >> material. >> >> I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please >> confirm the thickness? (Mine are leaking, but still installed) >> >> I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate . >> (Can’t locate the post). Any thoughts? >> >> Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite >> crazed) hatches? >> >> Many Thanks in advance. >> >> Dave >> Windstar 33-2 >> >> Sent from my iPad >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 33-2 portlight material
Thanks for your feedback on this Wade. I recently quoted a price of $1450 US. On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 12:17 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I got this kit (included frames, mounting hardware and new plexi windows) > from Dan Boisvert @ fixleakyboats.com for my 33-2 in 2009. Since > removal of the old windows and installing the new ones was a skill I hoped > to never use again, and because I wanted someone to complain to besides > myself if the new ones leaked, I had the fibreglass shop at my Marina > install them. The new windows have stood up well for 10 years. Having > said that, I have friends in my harbour with a C&C 32 who ordered the kit > and the very same fibreglass shop had a bit##@ch of a time getting them to > fit and they complained that the support from Dan was poor. After removal > of the old windows, the new plexi is put into place with sealant and the > frame provides compression to the seal by numerous through screws with > wing nuts on the inside of the cabin. Once cured, the frames outside are > calked, the wing nuts inside are removed and white nylon cap nuts are > placed over the screws. Looks good from outside. It's not an awful look > inside but the nuts are noticeable (to me, no one else has ever commented > on them) and the shop had to re-install the accordian curtains a little > higher to clear the nylon cap nuts. Overall, the cost and new appearance > was well worth having a dry boat. Cost for the kit in 2009 was about $1500 > CDN. > I haven't looked at his website to see if there are other reviews so this > is my personal experience with these kits > > Wade > Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II > > On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 10:07 AM Tom Lynch via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Has anyone tried or have any experience with the DIY window repair kit >> that Dan Boisvert sells @ fixleakyboats.com? His product uses a custom >> fabricated marine aluminum window frame which is installed with the >> existing acrylic window. >> >> He posts in the C&C Facebook group. >> >> Tom Lynch >> IndoIrish C&C 33 MKII >> Bayfield WI >> >> On Tue, Aug 27, 2019 at 8:50 PM Dave via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >>> Evening all - have searched the archives and have found a great deal of >>> info on adhesives and the replacement process, however not a lot on the >>> material. >>> >>> I understand the windows are acrylic (plexiglass) can anyone please >>> confirm the thickness? (Mine are leaking, but still installed) >>> >>> I know that some have used uv and scratch resistant polycarbonate . >>> (Can’t locate the post). Any thoughts? >>> >>> Is the material used for the portlights the same as for the (now quite >>> crazed) hatches? >>> >>> Many Thanks in advance. >>> >>> Dave >>> Windstar 33-2 >>> >>> Sent from my iPad >>> ___ >>> >>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C&C 35-1 Hatchboards
Just before losing Corsair, our Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), I made a set of teak hatch boards. They have been sitting in my barn since. Here are pictures of them: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-ABfKweB6Fo_lU5BEPOx5Y4KDCLWA1Gj I hate to see such nice teak just sit around. First 35-1 that claims them (and pays shipping) gets them. Neil Schiller 1983 C*C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-1 Hatchboards
Nice work! Too bad Touche' has a good set already. Dennis C. On Wed, Aug 28, 2019 at 4:47 PM schiller via CnC-List wrote: > Just before losing Corsair, our Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), I made a set of > teak hatch boards. They have been sitting in my barn since. Here are > pictures of them: > > https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-ABfKweB6Fo_lU5BEPOx5Y4KDCLWA1Gj > > I hate to see such nice teak just sit around. First 35-1 that claims them > (and pays shipping) gets them. > > Neil Schiller > 1983 C*C 35-3, #028, "Grace" > Whitehall, Michigan > WLYC > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-1 Hatchboards
I'm in - how much? Joe Coquina On 8/28/2019 5:46 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote: Just before losing Corsair, our Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), I made a set of teak hatch boards. They have been sitting in my barn since. Here are pictures of them: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-ABfKweB6Fo_lU5BEPOx5Y4KDCLWA1Gj I hate to see such nice teak just sit around. First 35-1 that claims them (and pays shipping) gets them. Neil Schiller 1983 C*C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C&C 35-3 Cockpit Boom Tent
C&C 35-3 owners: We inherited a boom tent cockpit cover for our 35-3. We had a new dodger, Bimini and connector made this year and no longer have any need for it. It is available to the first 35-3 owner willing to pitch in for the shipping cost. Pictures can be found at: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1suENnANcxBERVWsCPFHyGvHtGMV2wSRm It has zippered doors n either side and slopes down at the backstay. Let me know if you are interested. Neil Schiller 1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C&C 35-1 Hatchboards
Shipping cost only. My guess would be $20-25? I can collect after we ship them. Just send me and address. Neil Schiller 1983 C&C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC On 8/28/2019 6:47 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote: I'm in - how much? Joe Coquina On 8/28/2019 5:46 PM, schiller via CnC-List wrote: Just before losing Corsair, our Redwing 35 (C&C 35-1), I made a set of teak hatch boards. They have been sitting in my barn since. Here are pictures of them: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-ABfKweB6Fo_lU5BEPOx5Y4KDCLWA1Gj I hate to see such nice teak just sit around. First 35-1 that claims them (and pays shipping) gets them. Neil Schiller 1983 C*C 35-3, #028, "Grace" Whitehall, Michigan WLYC ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
