Good to see progress wade. Some comments: Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 28, 2019, at 12:21 AM, Wade Glew <wadeg...@gmail.com> wrote: > > So a little update re the electrical issues on Oh Boy. > > battery (Batt 2) at 12.7 V. Each of the four Trojans in Batt1 bank measured > 6.41V. Good > > adding labels to them for future reference. Good - are you learning to read the factory schematic diagram? It’s a very useful map. > Except for the starter 12V battery, all connections felt tight with no > surface corrosion (for whatever that's worth) > including the grounds on the engine block. > I then took apart the starter 12V battery connections, cleaned the terminals > then stripped the wires and added new connectors. The factory terminations are generally quite reliable, more so than typical hand crimped connections. . For sure replace a problem connection but you’re likely ok to leave well enough alone (clean it) if it’s in good condition. > Used the Tef Gel (thanks for that recommendation Dennis C) and now the > starter battery and charging system seem to work perfectly. You should see over 13.5 volts when charging, 14.5 ish when the alternator is charging. > > Curiously, I could not find a ground wire from the starter to the engine > ground so I The engine and its various bits are a lump of metal and are ‘grounded’ via the big battery negative attached to the transmission. All good. Starter solenoid ground braid - Clean if absolutely necessary and leave it. > I , every since I've had the boat, pressing the starter button sometimes > produces a click but does not engage the starter. Two or three tries usually > makes the starter engage and the engine then starts just fine. Keep at what you are doing and Make sure you check the connections at the engine control panel as well. (Easy) This was a problem on mine, and I had to repair a diy termination plus I found some loose terminal screws. It had created an intermittent issue with the key switch. > > After all this, the engine starts but still feels sluggish to turn over so i > think, as Garry suggested, there were two problems. I arter 12V battery but > which of the four Trojan negative terminals would I put the Voltmeter on or > does it matter? Make sure all those connections are sound. Which battery Doesn’t matter provided those connections are sound. Just get a big alligator clip for your ‘ -‘ probe lead, clamp it to a good ground. Your voltage at rest is one thing, voltage (and current) under load another. (Fred mentions this below - adequate current) Make sure your batteries are topped up with distilled water. How old are they? > > . I might try the ground behind the starter as Dave S recommended first, .... Critical termination, somewhat dissimilar metals conducting electricity, heat, high vibration.... what could possibly go wrong? ;-) Have fun. Dave > > Wade > Oh Boy 33 MK II > >> On Wed, Aug 14, 2019 at 8:32 AM Dave S <syerd...@gmail.com> wrote: >> Good luck with the troubleshooting. >> Can’t recall if I responded with this but some 33-2 electrical info and >> photos here >> >> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html?m=1 >> >> Dave >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 14, 2019, at 8:46 AM, Wade Glew <wadeg...@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> thank you to all who responded to my email. I wont be back to the boat for >>> a couple of weeks but you've all given me lots of information and >>> suggestions of a plan to go forwards. Thanks again, will let you know how >>> it goes >>> Wade >>> Oh Boy C&C 33 MK II >>> >>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 9:31 PM Garry Cross via CnC-List >>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>> My 2 cents. >>>> Sounds to me like two different bad connections. There is a bad >>>> connection, likely ground path on Batt 2, just the load of the normal >>>> house circuits cannot flow through it. For Batt 1 it sounds like another >>>> bad connection but the house circuit does not draw enough current to drop >>>> the voltage enough that things stop working but the start current drops >>>> the voltage to much. It's all about ohm's law. I = V/R or V = I*R. So with >>>> low amps there is less voltage drop over a bad connection. Raise the >>>> current and you produce more voltage drop. Push 1 amp through a 6 ohm >>>> resistance and your gonna drop 6V. Put a voltmeter there with no load it >>>> will read 12V. >>>> Another way, put a voltmeter between the battery - terminal and the + at >>>> the starter. It likely will read 12v. If you hit the start button and the >>>> voltage stays at 12v then the issue is in the ground path. If it drops the >>>> issue is in the hot path. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> ---------- Forwarded message ---------- >>>>> From: Jeff Helsdingen <onemorej...@gmail.com> >>>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com >>>>> Cc: >>>>> Bcc: >>>>> Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2019 18:47:46 -0400 >>>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice >>>>> I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all >>>>> the ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery >>>>> through the battery switch and to the starter. Since it's a "new" >>>>> problem I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem >>>>> as well but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added >>>>> can suddenly become undersized quickly too. >>>>> >>>>> Jeff Helsdingen >>>>> Caposhi >>>>> C&C 35 mk 1 #54 >>>>> Port Stanley On. >>>>> >>>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List >>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>>>> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground. Voltage is one thing; but enough >>>>>> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be >>>>>> adversely affected by bad ground continuity. >>>>>> >>>>>> — Fred >>>>>> >>>>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis >>>>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI >>>>>> >>>>>>> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List >>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Clean all the ground connections. >>>>>>> >>>>>>> Dennis C. >>>>>>> >>>>>>>> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List >>>>>>>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>>>>>>> Hello listers, I would appreciate any advice you might have on my >>>>>>>> electrical issue du jour. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Mine is a C&C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system. >>>>>>>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V deep cycles about 5 >>>>>>>> years old. Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005. I look after >>>>>>>> my batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating >>>>>>>> normally. I have a True Charge 40 battery charger. One morning >>>>>>>> after several days out sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the >>>>>>>> fridge and lots of music playing) and running the engine very little, >>>>>>>> the engine would not start. Starter turned slow, felt like no battery >>>>>>>> power. I had the Master Switch on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery >>>>>>>> 2 at which point all 12V electrical activity on the boat stopped >>>>>>>> working altogether. Prior to switching to Bat 2, the Link 20 showed >>>>>>>> my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on battery remaining >>>>>>>> at 225 hours. I put a portable battery pack onto my starter battery >>>>>>>> and it read 12.4 V from the battery. However, powering up the battery >>>>>>>> pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start the >>>>>>>> engine. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand >>>>>>>> new 1000 cranking amps 12V battery. I charged by shore power >>>>>>>> overnight then left for a few more days on the water. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Now, the current circumstance is this. >>>>>>>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1, I see >>>>>>>> normal charging voltages to both battery banks. >>>>>>>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to >>>>>>>> both batteries. >>>>>>>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are >>>>>>>> resting at about 12.5 V. Both banks show plenty of reserve on the >>>>>>>> Link 20. When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have >>>>>>>> low battery power. The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch >>>>>>>> to either Bat 1 or ALL and won't start. If I change the switch to Bat >>>>>>>> 2, all 12V electrical activity on the boat instantly stops. If I put >>>>>>>> the portable battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in >>>>>>>> the ALL position, the engine will go however, it still feels like the >>>>>>>> starter is turning too slowly. >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the >>>>>>>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat. I >>>>>>>> would appreciate any suggestions >>>>>>>> >>>>>>>> Wade >>>>>>>> Oh Boy, C&C 33 MK II >>>> _______________________________________________ >>>> >>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each >>>> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - >>>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>>
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