Re: Stus-List Beta Engine Stalling

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

With previous boat we had a stalling issue when slowing or throttling back. 
Yanmar would run all day if need be and as soon as approaching a dock or 
mooring, would stall. Spent days trying everything. Filter changes, tightening 
hose clamps, changing crush washers turned out to be sludge in the tank. 
The pickup tube was in the forward end of the tank and would clog when slowing. 
Cleaned the tank, no more problems.  Other than the yard that cleaned the tank 
did so with gusto and put a hole in the tank. Which needed replacing. Then 
there was the explosion that occurred when they inadvertently cut through the 
propane line (which was obscured by insulation) While rerouting the tank 
vent...but it ran like a top until then. 
> Jon
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Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My Universal is a Kubota diesel that has been marinized, Like a Beta. I’ve 
discovered that almost anything that is not a specific part of the conversion 
(like the raw water pump or the heat exchanger) is pretty much available from a 
Kubota tractor dealer – and there are a lot of them.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Boyer 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 1:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Boyer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

 

I have all the power I need with my new Yanmar 3YM30AE.  I’m not sure where you 
are getting your information that you need more than 30 HP.

 

One big disadvantage of Beta is that there are not nearly as many parts 
distributors—this is more important if you cruise to foreign ports.

 

Bob

Bob Boyer

S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)

Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

Email: dainyr...@icloud.com  

Annapolis, MD 

(Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)





On Jun 26, 2020, at 12:23 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

I agree, get yourself a nice Beta 37 ½ HP diesel, and a 3 blade flex-a – fold. 
I replaced a 4-108 with one of those Kubota’s, the mounting was about  2 inches 
narrower, I just had to get some 3” aluminum (or maybe 4”) angle to replace the 
old steel angle.  You will be amazed at how much lighter it is from the Perkins.

An old slip neighbor also had a 39, he replaced his atomic with a 30 HP Yanmar, 
and was disappointed with the loss in power.  But it will still get you from A 
to B.

 

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Niemi 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 7:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Gary Niemi
Subject: Stus-List Re-power and prop for 1981 C Landfall 38

 

We are American expatriates who have sailed our 1981 C Landfall 38 to New 
Zealand a decade ago. It has a Perkins 4-108, which is on its last legs. It's 
not particularly reliable and is having trouble with overheating in the last 
few years. Also, it's very heavy and it is way too much power anyway. We're 
looking to replace it with a more reliable, modern power plant.

 

So we have a couple of questions:

 

What is the correct power? I understand most were sold with Yanmer 30hp 3HM or 
3QM diesels. We like the idea of saving a lot of weight with a smaller engine 
than the Perkins, as well as ease of access, etc. However, we'd consider a 35 
or 38 also if 30 horsepower wasn't enough power.

 

At the same time we'll be replacing the fixed 2 blade prop with a 3 blade 
feathering or folding prop, so will be looking for recommendations for that. 
The current prop is totally wrong. I think it's 16x14. We never were able to 
get up to the proper engine speed with the 4-108. Can you recommend something? 
What have people tried?

 

Interested in hearing others' experiences.

 

Gary Niemi
g...@niemi.co.nz  

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Beta Engine Stalling

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Since your filters are already clean, my first guess would be the fuel lift 
pump… particularly if it is an electric lift pump. They get hot and lose 
effectiveness with age. High pressure pump gets starved for fuel and stalls. 
Happened to me (twice) on my Universal engine (which is a Kubota diesel) and 
once on a Beta on a boat I was delivering.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 9:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Beta Engine Stalling

 

Don,

 

My guess is dirty fuel as well, but you should also check your fuel lift pump 
and also bleed the system. 

 

Contact Farron at Beta too - he is a great resource. 

 

PS - You were great in Miami Vice. 

All the best, 

 

Edd





———-

Edd M. Schillay

Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”

C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B

Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

www.StarshipSailing.com  

———-

914.774.9767   | Mobile

———-

Sent via iPhone 11 Pro

iPhone. iTypos. iApologize






On Jun 26, 2020, at 8:51 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



Hello

 

We have a beta engine that has a stalling problem.  It started a while ago when 
idling.  After some investigation and replacing fuel filters to no avail we 
found a loose clamp on the fuel line which was letting air in.  Problem fixed.  
Sort off.  It ran well for a while, but then...  and the new problem may be 
unrelated to this air leak problem.

 

Now it stalls if it has been running hard for a while and you throttle down 
quickly.  It also stalls occasionally if you are idling and throttle up 
quickly.  For example when you are coasting forward into a slip and then want 
to stop quickly by hitting reverse.  Sometimes it can be difficult to start 
after a stall.  Sometimes not.If you change the throttle slowly, either 
when accelerating or decelerating, it keeps running.  Filters are clean and no 
obvious air leaks or diesel leaks.

 

Any ideas?

 

Thanks

Don Jonsson

Andante, Victoria 

 

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Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

So I needed to get launched and over to another marina for some extended
maintenance.  It was a nice chance to see how the new drive train worked.
Everything was fine and more or less "normal".  Shaft seal didn't leak and
vented just fine, no new or excessive vibes in the drive line.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please
> disregard.
>
> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C 37+.
> In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and
> strut bearing.
>
> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid
> coupling.  I had had a R Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to
> reuse.  The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's.  The new coupling
> is a split coupling from R Marine.  The new seal and coupling have added
> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most.
>
> So here comes the question.
>
> First:  Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft?  I have 3.
> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be
> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the
> thickness of the coupling bolts.
> - getting the split coupling on could be complicated
> - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation
> available in the seal tube.  The seal uses a delrin bearing to center
> itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride
> harder on the shaft and can even overheat.
>
> Second:
> The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches.  If I cut the
> log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit
> more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate.  Can any of you see
> any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Out here on the East Coast (South Coast MA) very different experience with “The 
Navtech Guy”.  Spent almost 1 boat buck within 2 years to realize I needed to 
go to a real hydraulic shop and get what I needed for a fraction (10%) of the 
price.

Nuf’ said.

David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 3:32 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

There are lots of discussions on the web about repairing hydraulic backstays.  
The one overwhelming constant in most of them is the high regard folks have for 
Lew Townsend's work.

I wanted to use him to repair mine a couple years ago.  Contacted him but he 
was just about to start a 3 week vacation.  Being impatient, I chose another 
repair shop.  They did a complete and expensive rebuild on my Navtec.  After 
re-install, it lost tension ever so slightly over time.  I'd put some tension 
on it, leave the boat for a week and return to a loose back stay.  Not a big 
deal while sailing or racing given the short time frame of those activities but 
irritating nonetheless.  After a couple years, it now seems to hold tension 
over time.

Wish I'd waited and sent it to Lew.  After he returned from his vacation, he 
contacted me to see if I still needed his help.  I can say without reservation 
that if I need my adjuster worked on again, it will go to Lew.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Worked great!  I've had at least 3 different things shipped to him on separate 
occasions.  Cost of shipping sucks but knowing that it is done correctly is 
worth it.

Josh


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Re: Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Have a look at these guys: https://martyranodes.com/product/max-prop-anodes/.

Btw. I like the name of the company (;-).

Marek

From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Spencer Johnson via CnC-List
Sent: 29 June, 2020 14:18
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Cc: ssjohn...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

You are absolutely correct Marek.but BoatZinc's only had zinc and aluminum 
for the end of the prop.  I went with what they recommended...

--==>Spencer
~~~
Spencer,

For fresh water you want magnesium (aluminium is for brackish water)

Marek
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Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

There are lots of discussions on the web about repairing hydraulic
backstays.  The one overwhelming constant in most of them is the high
regard folks have for Lew Townsend's work.

I wanted to use him to repair mine a couple years ago.  Contacted him but
he was just about to start a 3 week vacation.  Being impatient, I chose
another repair shop.  They did a complete and expensive rebuild on my
Navtec.  After re-install, it lost tension ever so slightly over time.  I'd
put some tension on it, leave the boat for a week and return to a loose
back stay.  Not a big deal while sailing or racing given the short time
frame of those activities but irritating nonetheless.  After a couple
years, it now seems to hold tension over time.

Wish I'd waited and sent it to Lew.  After he returned from his vacation,
he contacted me to see if I still needed his help.  I can say without
reservation that if I need my adjuster worked on again, it will go to Lew.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:20 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Worked great!  I've had at least 3 different things shipped to him on
> separate occasions.  Cost of shipping sucks but knowing that it is done
> correctly is worth it.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Worked great!  I've had at least 3 different things shipped to him on
separate occasions.  Cost of shipping sucks but knowing that it is done
correctly is worth it.

Josh

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 15:09 Allen Miles via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Josh,
>
> You dealt with Lew in Seattle?  That's a haul from the Solomons, MD.
>
> How did that work out?
>
> Allen
>
> On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:22 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Ugh!  Thanks Alan, for properly stating Lew's number.  Sorry my number
>> for Lew was completely wrong!  Please DISREGARD my previous email.  As Alan
>> stated, Lew's proper info is:
>> 206-498-7282
>> lewtowns...@comcast.net
>>
>> Apologies,
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 13:42 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> My hydraulic backstay failed while on an ocean race. I didn't notice it
>>> until we started slipping on the hydraulic fluid all over the cockpit
>>> floor. We used a spare halyard as a backstay until we finished the race.
>>>
>>> I have all my hydraulic work done by Lew Townsend in Seattle. He has
>>> done work for several people on the list.. Pretty far for you, but if you
>>> want to talk with Lew, you can reach him at: 206-498-7282.
>>> lewtowns...@comcast.net
>>>
>>> Alan Bergen
>>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 9:45 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Jake,

 I know you sold Midnight Mistress, but my HYC based C 30-2 could use
 new seals.  Do you remember who you used for the job? I talked to a Hampton
 rigger and he wanted to send it to New York to get the unit rebuilt. I
 liked the idea of your cheap and easy fix.

 Thanks for your help,

 Allen Miles
 S/V Septima
 HYC, Hampton, VA

 On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 6:17 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan,
>
>
>
> That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure.  It’s
> odd that you leaked so much fluid though.  The backstay is the highest 
> part
> of the system.  I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down
> to zero and then stop leaking altogether.
>
>
>
> I’ve had my seals replaced before.  Cheap and easy fix.  I’ve also
> noticed that if you keep the top seal covered, it lasts longer.  Some 
> folks
> use a foam can holder for this, although it doesn’t look that great.
> Keeping the seal out of the sun will keep it lasting longer.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 23:18
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Stus-List hydraulic backstay
>
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic
> fluid around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably
> needs replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has
> leaked out and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had
> temperatures as low as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if
> this leaking is normal with a bad seal or is there more at play here with
> leaving my hydraulics exposed to the harsh cold environment?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> Breakaweigh
>
> C
>
> Halifax, NS
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --
 https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!41z5a3scndV6zsY38CPUmpwe4zfVMIPIQsn535CFvek8ESje_dLwN7eV86xovi_GMDg$

 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks 

Re: Stus-List Serpentine Belt for Engine

[David Risch via CnC-List]

With a higher output alternator (80 amps) the load can outstrip the friction of 
a single belt.  And with some configurations and an obtuse angle on water pump 
(ike on the 3QM30) also creates much dust.

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2020 2:54:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Serpentine Belt for Engine

I don't see enough advantage of a serpentine belt.  Solar panels make a better 
investment and you won't need to run the engine.

Chuck S
On 06/29/2020 2:44 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List  wrote:


Has anyone on the list gone to these guys for a quote on a Serpentine Pulley 
Upgrade Kit?

https://electromaax.com/Serpentine-Pulley-Upgrade-Kits/

Ken H.

On Fri, 26 Jun 2020 at 15:51, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
I believe you are correct.  I love the idea of serpentine belts but as I recall 
the conversion kits are approaching $1000.  I can spend money where and if 
needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 for something that 
isn't broke, phew!  That's a hefty upgrade.  Do you have a cheaper source?

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the 
V-Belts.  So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement.



Bill Coleman



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting



Bill,



Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are.  In regards to the coupling 
there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole.  I imagine it might be 
for a set screw or lock screw.  It does not extend through to the shaft.  I'm 
not sure it is visible in any picture.  Anybody have any thoughts on it's 
expected purpose.  I'm going to call PYI (R Marine).



I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience.  The epoxy paint 
would have to be Grey.  Too much dirt getting thrown around the engine 
compartment to use white and have it get dirty.



TBH, I'd rather be sailing.  And paint doesn't make the boat sail better.



Josh





On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Looks great.

That transmission flange still gives me a woody.



Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think you 
should,  I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some nice white 
epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the periphery.



Bill Coleman





From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting



I completed the shaft install today.  I ended up cutting off about 2.5 inches 
of shaft log.  Everything else went pretty well.



https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g



Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD



On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please disregard.



I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C 37+.  In 
the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal and strut 
bearing.



The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid coupling. 
 I had had a R Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to reuse.  The new 
seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's.  The new coupling is a split coupling 
from R Marine.  The new seal and coupling have added length which ultimately 
leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most.



So here comes the question.



First:  Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft?  I have 3.

- getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be 
separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the thickness 
of the coupling bolts.

- getting the split coupling on could be complicated

- with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation 
available in the seal tube.  The seal uses a delrin bearing to center itself on 
the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride harder on the 
shaft and can even overheat.



Second:

The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches.  If I cut the log 
shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit more free 
shaft and room for the seal to 

Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Josh,

You dealt with Lew in Seattle?  That's a haul from the Solomons, MD.

How did that work out?

Allen

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 2:22 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ugh!  Thanks Alan, for properly stating Lew's number.  Sorry my number for
> Lew was completely wrong!  Please DISREGARD my previous email.  As Alan
> stated, Lew's proper info is:
> 206-498-7282
> lewtowns...@comcast.net
>
> Apologies,
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 13:42 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My hydraulic backstay failed while on an ocean race. I didn't notice it
>> until we started slipping on the hydraulic fluid all over the cockpit
>> floor. We used a spare halyard as a backstay until we finished the race.
>>
>> I have all my hydraulic work done by Lew Townsend in Seattle. He has done
>> work for several people on the list.. Pretty far for you, but if you want
>> to talk with Lew, you can reach him at: 206-498-7282.
>> lewtowns...@comcast.net
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 9:45 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Jake,
>>>
>>> I know you sold Midnight Mistress, but my HYC based C 30-2 could use
>>> new seals.  Do you remember who you used for the job? I talked to a Hampton
>>> rigger and he wanted to send it to New York to get the unit rebuilt. I
>>> liked the idea of your cheap and easy fix.
>>>
>>> Thanks for your help,
>>>
>>> Allen Miles
>>> S/V Septima
>>> HYC, Hampton, VA
>>>
>>> On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 6:17 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Dan,



 That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure.  It’s
 odd that you leaked so much fluid though.  The backstay is the highest part
 of the system.  I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down
 to zero and then stop leaking altogether.



 I’ve had my seals replaced before.  Cheap and easy fix.  I’ve also
 noticed that if you keep the top seal covered, it lasts longer.  Some folks
 use a foam can holder for this, although it doesn’t look that great.
 Keeping the seal out of the sun will keep it lasting longer.



 Jake





 *Jake Brodersen*

 *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*

 *Hampton VA*

 [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]







 *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan
 via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 23:18
 *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Cc:* Dan 
 *Subject:* Stus-List hydraulic backstay



 Hey everyone,

 I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic
 fluid around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably
 needs replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has
 leaked out and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had
 temperatures as low as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if
 this leaking is normal with a bad seal or is there more at play here with
 leaving my hydraulics exposed to the harsh cold environment?



 Thanks,



 Dan

 Breakaweigh

 C

 Halifax, NS
 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

 ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!41z5a3scndV6zsY38CPUmpwe4zfVMIPIQsn535CFvek8ESje_dLwN7eV86xovi_GMDg$
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 

Re: Stus-List Serpentine Belt for Engine

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I don't see enough advantage of a serpentine belt.  Solar panels make a better 
investment and you won't need to run the engine.

Chuck S

> On 06/29/2020 2:44 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone on the list gone to these guys for a quote on a Serpentine 
> Pulley Upgrade Kit?
> 
> https://electromaax.com/Serpentine-Pulley-Upgrade-Kits/ 
> 
> Ken H. 
> 
> On Fri, 26 Jun 2020 at 15:51, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > I believe you are correct.  I love the idea of serpentine 
> belts but as I recall the conversion kits are approaching $1000.  I can spend 
> money where and if needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 
> for something that isn't broke, phew!  That's a hefty upgrade.  Do you have a 
> cheaper source?
> > 
> > Josh Muckley 
> > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > 1989 C 37+
> > Solomons, MD
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < 
> > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was 
> > > coming from the V-Belts.  So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. 
> > > What an improvement.
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Bill Coleman
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> > > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
> > > CnC-List
> > > Sent: Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM
> > > To: C List
> > > Cc: Josh Muckley
> > > Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Bill,
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are.  In regards 
> > > to the coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole.  I 
> > > imagine it might be for a set screw or lock screw.  It does not extend 
> > > through to the shaft.  I'm not sure it is visible in any picture.  
> > > Anybody have any thoughts on it's expected purpose.  I'm going to call 
> > > PYI (R Marine).
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience.  
> > > The epoxy paint would have to be Grey.  Too much dirt getting thrown 
> > > around the engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty.
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > TBH, I'd rather be sailing.  And paint doesn't make the boat 
> > > sail better.
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > Josh
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > >  
> > > 
> > > On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > Looks great.
> > > > 
> > > > That transmission flange still gives me a woody.
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > Now, If you are going to continue these instructional 
> > > > videos, and I think you should,  I think you should Redd up the engine 
> > > > compartment, get some nice white epoxy going on in there, and some 
> > > > strip LED’s around the periphery.
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > Bill Coleman
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> > > > mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
> > > > CnC-List
> > > > Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM
> > > > To: C List
> > > > Cc: Josh Muckley
> > > > Subject: Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by 
> > > > cutting
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > I completed the shaft install today.  I ended up 
> > > > cutting off about 2.5 inches of shaft log.  Everything else went pretty 
> > > > well.
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > Josh Muckley
> > > > 
> > > > S/V Sea Hawk 
> > > > 
> > > > 1989 C 37+
> > > > 
> > > > Solomons, MD 
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > > > > > > 
> > > > > I've asked a few of you personally so if this is 
> > > > > a repeat then please disregard.
> > > > > 
> > > > >  
> > > > > 
> > > > > I'm in the process of 

Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Has anyone on the list gone to these guys for a quote on a Serpentine
Pulley Upgrade Kit?

https://electromaax.com/Serpentine-Pulley-Upgrade-Kits/

Ken H.

On Fri, 26 Jun 2020 at 15:51, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe you are correct.  I love the idea of serpentine belts but as I
> recall the conversion kits are approaching $1000.  I can spend money where
> and if needed on value added repairs and improvements, but $1000 for
> something that isn't broke, phew!  That's a hefty upgrade.  Do you have a
> cheaper source?
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 14:31 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I discovered that most of the filth in my engine room was coming from the
>> V-Belts.  So I swapped them out for serpentine belts. What an improvement.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
>> Muckley via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 26, 2020 12:42 PM
>> *To:* C List
>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill,
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks for letting me know how "excited" you are.  In regards to the
>> coupling there is what appears to be a predrilled partial hole.  I imagine
>> it might be for a set screw or lock screw.  It does not extend through to
>> the shaft.  I'm not sure it is visible in any picture.  Anybody have any
>> thoughts on it's expected purpose.  I'm going to call PYI (R Marine).
>>
>>
>>
>> I've considered the strip lighting for my own convenience.  The epoxy
>> paint would have to be Grey.  Too much dirt getting thrown around the
>> engine compartment to use white and have it get dirty.
>>
>>
>>
>> TBH, I'd rather be sailing.  And paint doesn't make the boat sail better.
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 26, 2020, 12:17 Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Looks great.
>>
>> That transmission flange still gives me a woody.
>>
>>
>>
>> Now, If you are going to continue these instructional videos, and I think
>> you should,  I think you should Redd up the engine compartment, get some
>> nice white epoxy going on in there, and some strip LED’s around the
>> periphery.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
>> Muckley via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 25, 2020 6:49 PM
>> *To:* C List
>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shortening the shaft log by cutting
>>
>>
>>
>> I completed the shaft install today.  I ended up cutting off about 2.5
>> inches of shaft log.  Everything else went pretty well.
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1FIKXswJLvlrxg3HOp2aJAqpqf-ib5i9g
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>>
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>> 1989 C 37+
>>
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 16, 2020, 09:02 Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I've asked a few of you personally so if this is a repeat then please
>> disregard.
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm in the process of replacing/rebuilding the drive train on my C
>> 37+.  In the process I'm replacing the shaft, shaft coupling, shaft seal
>> and strut bearing.
>>
>>
>>
>> The old seal was a PSS seal and the old coupling was a standard solid
>> coupling.  I had had a R Marine (PYI) coupling dampener and planned to
>> reuse.  The new seal is a Last Drop II from Sailor Sam's.  The new coupling
>> is a split coupling from R Marine.  The new seal and coupling have added
>> length which ultimately leaves only about 1.5 inches of free shaft at most.
>>
>>
>>
>> So here comes the question.
>>
>>
>>
>> First:  Any concerns with only having 1.5 inches of free shaft?  I have
>> 3.
>>
>> - getting the coupling dampener installed requires the couplings to be
>> separated by not just the thickness of the dampener buy rather by the
>> thickness of the coupling bolts.
>>
>> - getting the split coupling on could be complicated
>>
>> - with the shaft seal bottomed out on the log there is less articulation
>> available in the seal tube.  The seal uses a delrin bearing to center
>> itself on the shaft but without room to flex the bearing will just ride
>> harder on the shaft and can even overheat.
>>
>>
>>
>> Second:
>>
>> The seal engages with the shaft log by at least 4 inches.  If I cut the
>> log shorter, then I could push the seal deeper onto the log and get a bit
>> more free shaft and room for the seal to articulate.  Can any of you see
>> any drawbacks or pitfalls to cutting the log short?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>>
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>
>> 1989 C 37+
>>
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>

Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ugh!  Thanks Alan, for properly stating Lew's number.  Sorry my number for
Lew was completely wrong!  Please DISREGARD my previous email.  As Alan
stated, Lew's proper info is:
206-498-7282
lewtowns...@comcast.net

Apologies,
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 13:42 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My hydraulic backstay failed while on an ocean race. I didn't notice it
> until we started slipping on the hydraulic fluid all over the cockpit
> floor. We used a spare halyard as a backstay until we finished the race.
>
> I have all my hydraulic work done by Lew Townsend in Seattle. He has done
> work for several people on the list.. Pretty far for you, but if you want
> to talk with Lew, you can reach him at: 206-498-7282.
> lewtowns...@comcast.net
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 9:45 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Jake,
>>
>> I know you sold Midnight Mistress, but my HYC based C 30-2 could use
>> new seals.  Do you remember who you used for the job? I talked to a Hampton
>> rigger and he wanted to send it to New York to get the unit rebuilt. I
>> liked the idea of your cheap and easy fix.
>>
>> Thanks for your help,
>>
>> Allen Miles
>> S/V Septima
>> HYC, Hampton, VA
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 6:17 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Dan,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure.  It’s
>>> odd that you leaked so much fluid though.  The backstay is the highest part
>>> of the system.  I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down
>>> to zero and then stop leaking altogether.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I’ve had my seals replaced before.  Cheap and easy fix.  I’ve also
>>> noticed that if you keep the top seal covered, it lasts longer.  Some folks
>>> use a foam can holder for this, although it doesn’t look that great.
>>> Keeping the seal out of the sun will keep it lasting longer.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>>
>>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>>
>>> *Hampton VA*
>>>
>>> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan via
>>> CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 23:18
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Dan 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List hydraulic backstay
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Hey everyone,
>>>
>>> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic
>>> fluid around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably
>>> needs replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has
>>> leaked out and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had
>>> temperatures as low as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if
>>> this leaking is normal with a bad seal or is there more at play here with
>>> leaving my hydraulics exposed to the harsh cold environment?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> Breakaweigh
>>>
>>> C
>>>
>>> Halifax, NS
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --
>> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!41z5a3scndV6zsY38CPUmpwe4zfVMIPIQsn535CFvek8ESje_dLwN7eV86xovi_GMDg$
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

You are absolutely correct Marek.but BoatZinc's only had zinc and aluminum 
for the end of the prop.  I went with what they recommended...
--==>Spencer~~~Spencer,

For fresh water you want magnesium (aluminium is for brackish water)

Marek___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

My hydraulic backstay failed while on an ocean race. I didn't notice it
until we started slipping on the hydraulic fluid all over the cockpit
floor. We used a spare halyard as a backstay until we finished the race.

I have all my hydraulic work done by Lew Townsend in Seattle. He has done
work for several people on the list.. Pretty far for you, but if you want
to talk with Lew, you can reach him at: 206-498-7282.
lewtowns...@comcast.net

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 9:45 AM Allen Miles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jake,
>
> I know you sold Midnight Mistress, but my HYC based C 30-2 could use new
> seals.  Do you remember who you used for the job? I talked to a Hampton
> rigger and he wanted to send it to New York to get the unit rebuilt. I
> liked the idea of your cheap and easy fix.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Allen Miles
> S/V Septima
> HYC, Hampton, VA
>
> On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 6:17 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dan,
>>
>>
>>
>> That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure.  It’s
>> odd that you leaked so much fluid though.  The backstay is the highest part
>> of the system.  I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down
>> to zero and then stop leaking altogether.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’ve had my seals replaced before.  Cheap and easy fix.  I’ve also
>> noticed that if you keep the top seal covered, it lasts longer.  Some folks
>> use a foam can holder for this, although it doesn’t look that great.
>> Keeping the seal out of the sun will keep it lasting longer.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 23:18
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Dan 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List hydraulic backstay
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey everyone,
>>
>> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic fluid
>> around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably needs
>> replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has leaked
>> out and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had temperatures
>> as low as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if this leaking
>> is normal with a bad seal or is there more at play here with leaving my
>> hydraulics exposed to the harsh cold environment?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> Breakaweigh
>>
>> C
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!41z5a3scndV6zsY38CPUmpwe4zfVMIPIQsn535CFvek8ESje_dLwN7eV86xovi_GMDg$
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Spencer,

For fresh water you want magnesium (aluminium is for brackish water)

Marek
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

BobI replaced my pedestal so I could mount a 9" Raymarine touchscreen 
MFD...and updated electronics at the same time.  It came with a single lever 
shifter/throttleworks great...I can easily disengage the shifter to just 
use the throttle for starting and revving.  
https://www.mauriprosailing.com/us/product/EDS-476B-215T.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwoub3BRC6ARIsABGhnya9FZ6dDj6Lq40BKQ69sk9KzI7L3zQKcfxjdPcO32WQMMXBftDPwsMaArS1EALw_wcB
Somebody also inquired about props...Alegria came with a 16" SS Autostream 
feathering propmaybe from AustraliaIt has probably been on the boat for 
over 25 yearsnever any wear found and only O ring replacements every year 
or two, maybe a zinc (well, for fresh water it's aluminum) and grease it via a 
zerk fitting every fall.  looks new.  I had it off once to replace the shaft 
bearingso I was able to scope out the innards...No wear found.  
https://www.seahawk.com.au/

Good Luck!
Spencer Johnson84 LF 38 "Alegria"On the hard in Waukegan, IL with a fuel tank 
leak...   :-(___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Lew Townsend is an authorized service provider for Navtec
(917) 704-5233

While replacing the seals is cheap and simple, I would encourage you to
consider having Lew give you a quote a d explanation of services.  He found
a number of different deficiencies with my back stay hydraulics beyond just
seals.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Jun 29, 2020, 12:45 Allen Miles via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Jake,
>
> I know you sold Midnight Mistress, but my HYC based C 30-2 could use new
> seals.  Do you remember who you used for the job? I talked to a Hampton
> rigger and he wanted to send it to New York to get the unit rebuilt. I
> liked the idea of your cheap and easy fix.
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Allen Miles
> S/V Septima
> HYC, Hampton, VA
>
> On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 6:17 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dan,
>>
>>
>>
>> That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure.  It’s
>> odd that you leaked so much fluid though.  The backstay is the highest part
>> of the system.  I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down
>> to zero and then stop leaking altogether.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’ve had my seals replaced before.  Cheap and easy fix.  I’ve also
>> noticed that if you keep the top seal covered, it lasts longer.  Some folks
>> use a foam can holder for this, although it doesn’t look that great.
>> Keeping the seal out of the sun will keep it lasting longer.
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan via
>> CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 23:18
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Dan 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List hydraulic backstay
>>
>>
>>
>> Hey everyone,
>>
>> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic fluid
>> around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably needs
>> replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has leaked
>> out and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had temperatures
>> as low as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if this leaking
>> is normal with a bad seal or is there more at play here with leaving my
>> hydraulics exposed to the harsh cold environment?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> Breakaweigh
>>
>> C
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List hydraulic backstay

[Allen Miles via CnC-List]

Jake,

I know you sold Midnight Mistress, but my HYC based C 30-2 could use new
seals.  Do you remember who you used for the job? I talked to a Hampton
rigger and he wanted to send it to New York to get the unit rebuilt. I
liked the idea of your cheap and easy fix.

Thanks for your help,

Allen Miles
S/V Septima
HYC, Hampton, VA

On Thu, Mar 22, 2018 at 6:17 AM Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dan,
>
>
>
> That sounds pretty normal for a leaky seal to not hold pressure.  It’s odd
> that you leaked so much fluid though.  The backstay is the highest part of
> the system.  I would think that the pressure would eventually leak down to
> zero and then stop leaking altogether.
>
>
>
> I’ve had my seals replaced before.  Cheap and easy fix.  I’ve also noticed
> that if you keep the top seal covered, it lasts longer.  Some folks use a
> foam can holder for this, although it doesn’t look that great.  Keeping the
> seal out of the sun will keep it lasting longer.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
> [image: cid:image001.png@01D2F43E.567E4070]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan via
> CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 21, 2018 23:18
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Stus-List hydraulic backstay
>
>
>
> Hey everyone,
>
> I noticed that my hydraulic backstay was leaking a little hydraulic fluid
> around the piston point - an indication that a seal inside probably needs
> replacing... I noticed that over the winter most of the fluid has leaked
> out and the backstay will no longer hold pressure. We've had temperatures
> as low as -19 deg. Celcius here in Canada, just wondering if this leaking
> is normal with a bad seal or is there more at play here with leaving my
> hydraulics exposed to the harsh cold environment?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> Breakaweigh
>
> C
>
> Halifax, NS
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Stus-List List Digest

[Stu via CnC-List]

Stus-List CnC-List Digest - C 121  IS NOT AN ACCEPTABLE SUBJECT!  And the 
same goes when you don’t trim the message.

Trim it or get trimmed!

Stu___

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest - C 121

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Bob,

1) throttle/shifter location - my observation is that the location on the
lower starboard bench is an odd location, somewhat inconvenient by design.
I have seen some models with the Edson pedestal shifter installed.  Has
anyone done this conversion?

Call Edson, they very likely have a design for the pedestal installation if
it has been done in the past and may be able to give you a list of
materials you will need to do the conversion.  Their customer service is
excellent.

2) traveler shieves being frozen due to dirt and limited use.  Any thoughts
on that, best way to remove clean and lube?  Replacement? Any upgrades done
to the traveler?

Lots of warm soapy water to wash out the existing grit, dirt and debris,
rinse well and then, when dry, put a few drops of McLube OneDrop Ball
Bearing Conditioner on everything with ball bearings in it.  It will likely
then work like new.

https://www.mclubemarine.com/onedrop/

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1197753






On Sun, 28 Jun 2020 at 23:51, RLT via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Recently stepped into a 2000  C 121 and had a few questions on options
> others have pursued or attempted?
> 1) throttle/shifter location - my observation is that the location on the
> lower starboard bench is an odd location, somewhat inconvenient by design.
> I have seen some models with the Edson pedestal shifter installed.  Has
> anyone done this conversion?
> 2) traveler shieves being frozen due to dirt and limited use.  Any
> thoughts on that, best way to remove clean and lube?  Replacement? Any
> upgrades done to the traveler?
> --
> Regards,
>
> Bob Tallman
> C: 631.387.6748
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

S/V Salazar - Can 54955

C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
C 37/40 XL Salazar 
-- 
"Nice? It's the only thing," said the Water Rat Solemnly, as he leaned
forward for his stroke. "Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing --
absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in
boats."

"Simply messing...about in boats -- or with boats... In or out of 'em it
doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether
you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination
or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at
all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when
you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if
you like, but you'd much better not."
___

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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Price?  WaterWeld is about $6 for a 2 ounce tube.

I know it works.  I discovered a small leak below the waterline last year
while working near the rudder tube.  Probably coming from a defective layup
around the tube.  Slapped some WaterWeld on it.  Hasn't leaked since.

I keep a tube of WaterWeld on the boat.

I've used MarineTex but never below the waterline.
  --
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jun 29, 2020 at 6:04 AM David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thank you, Graham and Dennis. I tried tightening the bolts to no avail. I
> will give the epoxy a try. Any difference between water weld and Marine
> tech underwater epoxy?
> ___
>
___

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Re: Stus-List C 121 engine controls, freeing sheaves

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

In 2003, I removed a one lever engine control on the cockpit side when I 
converted from tiller to wheel steering.  I installed separate levers for 
throttle and shifter, all Edson.  I wanted the controls at the helm and I also 
wanted to be able to rev the engine while the transmission was in neutral.  
Separate levers allow me to do that plus I usually dock by keeping the engine 
RPM the same low idle and then shift into gear for short periods to keep the 
boat moving.  You should go to Edson's website for all the manuals, or call 
them.  They can advise over the phone.  https://edsonmarine.com/

Freeing sheaves and pulleys is pretty common chore with a boat that has been 
sitting unused for a period of time.  Harken blocks have plastic bearings and 
parts and just require flushing with soapy water and a good rinse periodically. 
 Other blocks may have metal bearings like SS or bronze or both and since they 
are metal on metal need to be taken apart and serviced by cleaning with a 
solvent like kerosene and wiped clean and relubed with oil or grease.  Just 
like the winches, there are many videos showing how to service them.  A quick 
temporary fix to try, is to squirt with a spray lube like WD40 just to get them 
freed.  I would check out each maker's website for manufacture's maintenance 
advice about lubrication and methods.

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md

> On 06/28/2020 10:50 PM RLT via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> 
> Recently stepped into a 2000  C 121 and had a few questions on options 
> others have pursued or attempted?
> 1) throttle/shifter location - my observation is that the location on the 
> lower starboard bench is an odd location, somewhat inconvenient by design.  I 
> have seen some models with the Edson pedestal shifter installed.  Has anyone 
> done this conversion?
> 2) traveler shieves being frozen due to dirt and limited use.  Any 
> thoughts on that, best way to remove clean and lube?  Replacement? Any 
> upgrades done to the traveler?
> --
> Regards,
> 
> Bob Tallman
> C: 631.387.6748
> 
___

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Re: Stus-List New boat in town

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

 Hi John,             I visited this boat in Detroit last year when I was 
searching for a 34/36. The boat looks good from on the ground looking up at it 
on the hard but have you actually been aboard?  The former owner was a terrific 
gentleman but the boat has had just about zero maintenance since he acquired it 
in the late 90's. Many leaks inside which caused stains on the ceiling that I 
couldn't rub off with Vim and a stiff bristle brush. The fibreglass sandwich 
between the portlights on the starboard side has separated and cracked open all 
around. After visiting I had put together a list of musts for me and once I 
exceeded 50 grand Canadian on top of purchasing the boat I gave up on it. My 
list included painting the deck, new sails, upholstery, electronics, running 
rigging, etc.             It certainly can be a good boat again and if the 
purchase price was low enough it certainly could be worthwhile. As for me I 
found it to be too much of a project boat to be worth my while.
Al RheaumeDrumroll30-2
On Sunday, June 28, 2020, 08:54:55 p.m. EDT, John Conklin via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Winds Aloft a  mid 90’s 34/36+ just landed here in Oriental NC, boat looks 
great and great condition has a wing keel ?
>From Plymouth MI. Anyone know anything of this baby? Met new owner Looks nice, 
>and he got a killer deal! Hoping to get him out there Wed. Nights and also 
>Join the PHRF fleet. New owner was a big time Star sailor and did alot of 
>racing 
So Nice to see another C here ! 

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
www.flirtingwithfire.net

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  ___

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Re: Stus-List 35 MK III leak from Propeller log or strut

[David Swensen via CnC-List]

Thank you, Graham and Dennis. I tried tightening the bolts to no avail. I
will give the epoxy a try. Any difference between water weld and Marine
tech underwater epoxy?
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 173, Issue 168

[RLT via CnC-List]

Good morning, i am going to try this again and hopefully the body comes through along with the headers.Recently purchased a C 121.  2000 vintage.  This is our third C and oh so wish they would create a new lineAnyhow question i have is simple.  The line has an odd location for the throttle.  Same for the 115?s, not sure of the 110?s but the throttle/shifter is situated on the starboard side of the cockpit, low down by the engine shut off and tach.  I have seen some that have an Edson throttle shifter mounted to the right stansion of the pedestal guard.Has anyone done the conversion?  I am looking at this for my winter project, so just getting ideas and such for my plansThanks,BobBlue Star C 121On Sun, Jun 28, 2020 at 11:06 PM  wrote:Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
	cnc-list@cnc-list.com

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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re:  Broken pin in electronic connector (John Conklin)
   2.  Broken pin in connector. (mike amirault)
   3.  New boat in town (John Conklin)
   4.  Sanitation Issues (Peter Cowenhoven)
   5.  CnC-List Digest - C 121 (RLT)
   6. Re:  Sanitation Issues (David Risch)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2020 00:05:50 +
From: John Conklin 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector
Message-ID:
	BN6PR1301MB1939.namprd13.prod.outlook.com>
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I could use the ICOM tech info
Need to replace the whole line from what I am reading? And   not just male pin piece Correct
Thanks

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 28, 2020, at 7:51 PM, John Conklin  wrote:

? I have similar issue Ram mic works perfect  but somehow probably a kick or push several Male pins are bend (all present) and the connection cannot be made
Trip to my local West marine yielded  no info or part for this Icom radio :(
Any help is appreciated.  Small Tweezers maybe ?

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jun 25, 2020, at 8:51 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  wrote:

?
I will send Stu $20 right now Joe

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
Sent: June 25, 2020 9:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe Della Barba 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Broken pin in electronic connector


I have an extra RAM mic setup, the VH-310. If that would work for you.

It looks like this: https://www.locuradigital.com/images_upload/915244de24ba75cec9235406b.jpg

The socket is the same as the other modern RAM microphones.

It as the long cable, the cockpit female socket, and the handset. $20 for Stu and it's yours :)

Joe

Coquina
On 6/25/2020 8:20 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
Hoping to draw from the practical knowledge of this list.

Last evening when plugging in RAM mic for first time this season we found that one of the pins on the male receptacle had broken off and is now stuck in side the female end that is on the RAM mic itself.  The RAM mic works perfectly (or did before this) and all that needs to be replaced is the male socket that is attached to the hull.

The question is ?How do I get the broken pin out of the female socket??

I feel the male socket will be quite affordable and the RAM mic would be quite expensive.  I would rather not have to replace the RAM mic itself

Thanks

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS



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Message: 2
Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2020 21:46:20 -0300
From: mike amirault 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Broken pin in connector.
Message-ID:
	mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

If you or someone you know is really good with a fine tip soldering iron,
you could solder a small wire to the broken pin and pull it out.
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Re: Stus-List Sanitation Issues

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Your air vent is completely blocked.  Is there a screen over the vent in
the side of the hull?  If the screen is damaged Mud Dauber Wasps sometimes
build nests in the vent line, blocking it off.

Mud Daubers are hard on airplanes too:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mud_dauber#Airplane_incidents

Ken H.

On Sun, 28 Jun 2020 at 23:20, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is a wierd one.  My marine head set up is direct to tank or direct
> overboard controlled by a Y valve.  I've had issues with pressure in the
> system so I have been leaving the cap slighty open.
>
> I'm having an issue with somehow nothing going to the tank even though you
> hear it but the pumpout hose from the tank fills up while the tank
> doesn't??
>
> I know there isn't a clog from toilet to tank as I just replaced all the
> hoses to the tank, the y valve and the head??
>
> Any thoughts?  How the hell is the pumpout hose getting filled but not the
> tank?
>
> Thanks so much on advance.
>
> Peter
> 84 Landfall 35
> Westbrook, CT
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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