Re: Stus-List Fwd: Transmission problem??

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

What kind of engine and transmission?That will be important for us to help you 
with the diagnosis. Bruce Sent from Samsung tablet.
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Transmission problem??

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Good point:  Universal m4-30 With Hurth transmission. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2020, at 7:29 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> What kind of engine and transmission?
> 
> That will be important for us to help you with the diagnosis. 
> 
> Bruce 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Transmission problem??

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi David,
I have the same engine and transmission.
Back in 2008, I felt a lot of vibration through the cockpit floor when the 
engine was on.  It actually made the cockpit floor panel rattle if I wasn't 
standing on it.  I ordered new engine mounts at the advice of a diesel expert, 
but the real cause turned out to be the exhaust hose resting on the stringer 
running across the boat at the rear of the engine.  It was a simple fix to 
loosen the clamps holding the exhaust hose and slide it and the lift muffler 
aft enough so the hose no longer touched the rib.   I probably moved it an 
inch.  (I never installed the new mounts but keep them at home.)  I'd suggest 
checking your engine's exhaust hose is not resting on that rib  

Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C&C 34R Pasadena Md



> On 08/25/2020 7:45 AM David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Good point:  Universal m4-30 With Hurth transmission. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> > > On Aug 25, 2020, at 7:29 AM, bwhitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > > What kind of engine and transmission?
> > 
> > That will be important for us to help you with the diagnosis. 
> > 
> > Bruce 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from Samsung tablet.
> > 
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Transmission problem??

[Dave S via CnC-List]

With the kanzaki (Yanmar) transmissions, forward and reverse are engaged by 
moving what is in effect a double ended Bronze cone, fore and aft.  In one 
direction it engages a conical Steel female mating cone-surface for forward, in 
the opposite it engages another for reverse.  When neither cone is engaged, the 
engine is in neutral.
The transmission relies on the friction between these surfaces to remain 
slip-free.  
The surfaces can become glazed over  time and begin to slip.  In my case the 
vibration was more like a single brick in the spin cycle of a washing machine.  
 BANG BANG BANG
This was rectified by disassembling the transmission and lapping each side of 
the bronze cone with its mating steel ... conette.  

Dave - 33-2, Yanmar 2gm, kanzaki

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:12 PM, davidakne...@gmail.com wrote:
> 
> 
>> While motoring today we had the boat suddenly start vibrating violently. I 
>> had encountered this periodically before and thought something was going on 
>> with the prop.  It has been getting gradually worse this season.  I am 
>> pretty sure now it is the  transmission slipping partly out of gear. Slowing 
>> the engine , shifting to neutral then back into gear makes it smooth again, 
>> but today it happened over and over. In Jamestown at marina so i looked at 
>> transmission to see if it was a cable issue. Very confused by what i see and 
>> not something i have ever worked on. My guess is that cable is not allowing 
>> shifter to fully engage or else transmission is shot. There is an area of 
>> the engine support that appears to be worn away by the shifter movement  
>> No idea how that could be. Also there is a green sleeve on the cable near 
>> the clamp but not in the clamp. I am wondering if the cable is clamped so 
>> that it cannot rotate forward far enough to engage completely. Considering 
>> loosening clamp and moving cable housing forward but not sure if that would 
>> allow it to fully engage.  What sets the limit of that shifter movement?  
>> Any thoughts appreciated. Dave
>> Ps. I have pics but cant send to list. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine autopilot firmware upgrade ?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Updating my own post for future searches...

I called raymarine tech support and after a short hold was connected to a
tech, to whom I explained the symptoms and the steps taken so far and he
acknowledged that the issue with extreme compass deviation was most likely
(pretty much certainly) software-related.  The gentleman was well trained
and familiar with the products.   The fix requires the firmware to be
updated in all of the related devices, and it requires one of Raymarines
chartplotters to do so.  He advised that the "classic" series chartplotter
was not up to the job and strongly recommended a MFD running  Lighthouse
ii.   Good news is that my local dealer has agreed to lend me a demo unit
to do this update.
So, its solvable but the entire thing remains disappointing. This is a lot
of work to resolve a product quality issue, and it will need to be done
periodically to keep current.
I note that Raymarines site and documentation admonish that the firmware
must be kept up to date, while also warning that firmware updates are done
solely at the owner's risk.  This, you apparently consent to by downloading
the update, which as just mentioned they strongly encourage you to do, no
doubt to fix the bugs they are aware of but keep on the down low

Before investing in marine electronics it is well worth understanding any
bugs that might be associated with the product and its software, and also
on the process for updating firmware/software, since you will have to do
it.End of the day, the raymarine autopilot and any other other
ancillaries appear to have been engineered as and should probably be
thought of as accessories to their MFD, rather than viable standalone
products.

Dave




On Sun, 23 Aug 2020 at 20:16, Dave S  wrote:

> Thanks and yes - I will just not sure about timeliness of their response
> and was hoping someone might know.  (I have a window of opportunity to buy
> this old beast.).
>
> For sure the dealer is another answer and I have emailed the local one if
> he might have a demo unit to lend or rent, or would be willing to do an
> update.
>
>  I would really prefer not to have to disassemble the system simply to
> correct the manufacturer’s software issues...however this may be the
> only option.
>
> For anyone interested, after doing its linearization, the software reports
> deviation of 181 degrees (lol - that’s wrong). whereas when compared to
> both my magnetic compass and a separate gps  heading the max error is 37
> degrees. The mag compass and gps generally agree.
>
> Apparently a known issue with the early software, mentioned very quietly
> in the back pages of their tech forum.This is an evolution autopilot
> and the issue is with the deviation autocorrection software for the Ev-1
> sensor.
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 23, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Doug Mountjoy 
> wrote:
>
> 
> I would check with Raymarine on the compatibility. You can also take the
> course computer to a Raymarine dealer and he can upgrade the software.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Rebecca Leah
> C&C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard yacht club
>
>  Original message 
> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/23/20 13:41 (GMT-08:00)
> To: C&c Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine autopilot firmware upgrade ?
>
> Have ranted here before about the need to own a ray mfd to upgrade the
> (now known to be very buggy) firmware on my evolution autopilot.
>
> Had ignored this for awhile but now need to deal with it and have the
> chance to purchase an older Raymarine chart plotter model A70b, which has a
> SEATALKng port.
>
> Does anyone know if this unit can be used To perform the firmware upgrade
> on the evolution pilot and associated bits?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dave
> Windstar 33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine autopilot firmware upgrade ?

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

My Raymarine Axiom 9 MFD keeps crashing on start up.  Anyone dealing with this 
issue?

Glen Eddie

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557


Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dave S via CnC-List
Sent: August-25-20 01:15 PM
To: Doug Mountjoy 
Cc: Dave S ; C&c Stus List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine autopilot firmware upgrade ?

Updating my own post for future searches...

I called raymarine tech support and after a short hold was connected to a tech, 
to whom I explained the symptoms and the steps taken so far and he acknowledged 
that the issue with extreme compass deviation was most likely (pretty much 
certainly) software-related.  The gentleman was well trained and familiar with 
the products.   The fix requires the firmware to be updated in all of the 
related devices, and it requires one of Raymarines chartplotters to do so.  He 
advised that the "classic" series chartplotter was not up to the job and 
strongly recommended a MFD running  Lighthouse ii.   Good news is that my local 
dealer has agreed to lend me a demo unit to do this update.
So, its solvable but the entire thing remains disappointing. This is a lot of 
work to resolve a product quality issue, and it will need to be done 
periodically to keep current.
I note that Raymarines site and documentation admonish that the firmware must 
be kept up to date, while also warning that firmware updates are done solely at 
the owner's risk.  This, you apparently consent to by downloading the update, 
which as just mentioned they strongly encourage you to do, no doubt to fix the 
bugs they are aware of but keep on the down low

Before investing in marine electronics it is well worth understanding any bugs 
that might be associated with the product and its software, and also on the 
process for updating firmware/software, since you will have to do it.End of 
the day, the raymarine autopilot and any other other ancillaries appear to have 
been engineered as and should probably be thought of as accessories to their 
MFD, rather than viable standalone products.

Dave




On Sun, 23 Aug 2020 at 20:16, Dave S 
mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Thanks and yes - I will just not sure about timeliness of their response and 
was hoping someone might know.  (I have a window of opportunity to buy this old 
beast.).

For sure the dealer is another answer and I have emailed the local one if he 
might have a demo unit to lend or rent, or would be willing to do an update.

 I would really prefer not to have to disassemble the system simply to correct 
the manufacturer’s software issues...however this may be the only option.

For anyone interested, after doing its linearization, the software reports 
deviation of 181 degrees (lol - that’s wrong). whereas when compared to 
both my magnetic compass and a separate gps  heading the max error is 37 
degrees. The mag compass and gps generally agree.

Apparently a known issue with the early software, mentioned very quietly in the 
back pages of their tech forum.This is an evolution autopilot and the issue 
is with the deviation autocorrection software for the Ev-1 sensor.

Dave
Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 23, 2020, at 5:10 PM, Doug Mountjoy 
mailto:svrebeccal...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I would check with Raymarine on the compatibility. You can also take the course 
computer to a Raymarine dealer and he can upgrade the software.



Doug Mountjoy
sv Rebecca Leah
C&C Landfall 39
Port Orchard yacht club

 Original message 
From: Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 8/23/20 13:41 (GMT-08:00)
To: C&c Stus List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dave S mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine autopilot firmware upgrade ?

Have ranted here before about the need to own a ray mfd to upgrade the (now 
known to be very buggy) firmware on my evolution autopilot.

Had ignored this for awhile but now need to deal with it and have the chance to 
purchase an older Raymarine chart plotter model A70b, which has a SEATALKng 
port.

Does anyone know if this unit can be used To perform the firmware upgrade on 
the evolution pilot and associated bits?

Thanks!

Dave
Windstar 33-2

Sent from my iPhone
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Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is 
confidential. It is intended solely for use by the 

Re: Stus-List Raymarine autopilot firmware upgrade ?

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I had that problem early on in my upgrade. Since I upgraded to software version 
3.10.71 I have not had a problem. There is another version out there but I 
don't think it will work on my es78. And I have to have same software on both 
the es78 and my Axiom 9. Doug Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C&C Landfall 39Port 
Orchard yacht club.
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Stus-List Cheap 36-1 For Sale.

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

https://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1979/c-c-36-3464417/

Great deal for someone looking for a 36. I know nothing about it other then
it was listed at double that last time I looked at it..

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 25, 2020 1:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 175, Issue 94

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
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Stus-List "Blue Tango" C&C 35 Mk1 1971 For Sale

[TL ROSS via CnC-List]

C&C 35 MK1 1971 Classic Racer / Cruiser | Sailboats | City of Toronto | Kijiji

| 
| 
| 
| $25500.00 |  |

 |

 |
| 
|  | 
C&C 35 MK1 1971 Classic Racer / Cruiser | Sailboats | City of Toronto | ...

C&C 35 MK1’s are known for their sailing performance both as a racer and a 
cruiser. This model was produced from...
 |

 |

 |


Freshwater boat available! Just selling because we can't take advantage of all 
the fun she has to offer. Please help spread the word! 
Tracy Ross

oo...@yahoo.ca

 
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Stus-List A & H Hatch struts...

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Buying hatch strut for my 1981 40-2 forward hatch.  Rather give money to fellow 
listers if they have spares they want to get rid of.

Thanks in advance.
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Transmission problem??

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Done what i can at mooring away from home. Hard to access of course. With cable 
off Transmission shifter moves easily by hand. Cable also seems freely moving. 
Convinced that shift lever was upside down since rib was ground away from 
apparent rubbing. Swapped it so now shift lever up is forward and down reverse. 
Not sure if there is a standard.  Transmission fluid level fine and clean  
Changed that in spring.  Won’t be able to tell if i improved anything until 
tomorrow trip home. Still unclear whether slipping slightly out of gear would 
cause vibration. Boat did not obviously slow down while vibrating. Could a 
Maxprop issue cause that?  Thanks for ideas. Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2020, at 12:18 PM, Dave S  wrote:
> 
> With the kanzaki (Yanmar) transmissions, forward and reverse are engaged by 
> moving what is in effect a double ended Bronze cone, fore and aft.  In one 
> direction it engages a conical Steel female mating cone-surface for forward, 
> in the opposite it engages another for reverse.  When neither cone is 
> engaged, the engine is in neutral.
> The transmission relies on the friction between these surfaces to remain 
> slip-free.  
> The surfaces can become glazed over  time and begin to slip.  In my case the 
> vibration was more like a single brick in the spin cycle of a washing 
> machine.   BANG BANG BANG
> This was rectified by disassembling the transmission and lapping each side of 
> the bronze cone with its mating steel ... conette.  
> 
> Dave - 33-2, Yanmar 2gm, kanzaki
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 24, 2020, at 9:12 PM, davidakne...@gmail.com wrote:
>> 
>> 
>>> While motoring today we had the boat suddenly start vibrating violently. I 
>>> had encountered this periodically before and thought something was going on 
>>> with the prop.  It has been getting gradually worse this season.  I am 
>>> pretty sure now it is the  transmission slipping partly out of gear. 
>>> Slowing the engine , shifting to neutral then back into gear makes it 
>>> smooth again, but today it happened over and over. In Jamestown at marina 
>>> so i looked at transmission to see if it was a cable issue. Very confused 
>>> by what i see and not something i have ever worked on. My guess is that 
>>> cable is not allowing shifter to fully engage or else transmission is shot. 
>>> There is an area of the engine support that appears to be worn away by the 
>>> shifter movement  No idea how that could be. Also there is a green 
>>> sleeve on the cable near the clamp but not in the clamp. I am wondering if 
>>> the cable is clamped so that it cannot rotate forward far enough to engage 
>>> completely. Considering loosening clamp and moving cable housing forward 
>>> but not sure if that would allow it to fully engage.  What sets the limit 
>>> of that shifter movement?  Any thoughts appreciated. Dave
>>> Ps. I have pics but cant send to list. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 

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Re: Stus-List A & H Hatch struts...

[Chuck Borge via CnC-List]

Hi David,
I replaced my forward and main salon hatches this spring. 
Do you have a picture of what you need? 
I’ll see if I can scavenge one if I have it. 
Best,
Chuck B
Tenacious
C&C 41
Somerset, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 25, 2020, at 3:10 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Buying hatch strut for my 1981 40-2 forward hatch.  Rather give money to 
> fellow listers if they have spares they want to get rid of.
>  
> Thanks in advance.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Transmission problem??

[rockland bazemore via CnC-List]

I've also been having a similar issue and assumed it was the maxprop not
opening all the way but I'm not 100% sure. The vibration happens sometimes
when decreasing throttle as well. I havent found a method that always works
for getting it back to running smoothly. I usually bring it back down to
idle or even a boost of throttle helps. I know my prop needs refurbishing
so I was thinking it was that and also some greasing.
I'm also getting some nasty sounds in forward idle. At 1k it sounds smooth.

Rockland Bazemore
S/V Blue Pearl
C&C 37/40+
Port Washington, NY
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Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C&c-3 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C&c-35
San Francisco


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali
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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading
to the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that
the thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot
water.  Or, you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily)
without it to see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the
> boat(C&c-3 35) 2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine
> Maintinance. I never touched an engine
>  before with
> absolutely no experience. Got the boat
>  and started to
> follow the manual from oil change
> , filters,
> impellers etc. However, my engine
>  now heats up and
> the idiot temp alarm
>  comes off. I have
> a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.
>
> My engine had unknown green coolant
> , I went ahead
> and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While
> troubleshooting the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new),
> pumps rotate with no problem or leak and sea water
>  ofF the exhaust
>  and no leakage
> anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is
> that the hose from the heat exchanger
>  to the
> pump  until the
> thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the
> last hose from block to the heat exchanger
>  is
> really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air
> block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also
> after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow
> on them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block
> to the heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with
> coolant to try to get rid of any air blockage?
>
> Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I
> see steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue
> smoke from the exhaust
> . That never
> happened before. Did I mess up big time?
>
> Thank you again for your time
>
> Enterprise
> C&c-35
> San Francisco
>
> *MAZEN AZIZ*
> https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz
>
>
>
> "I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a
> very simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to
> make you think." Zaha Hadid
>
>
> "It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble
> in your shoe." Muhammad Ali
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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Re: Stus-List Overheating yanmar 3gm30

[Mazen Aziz via CnC-List]

Hi josh,

Yes sorry should have mentioned. Did these 2 steps as well. Thermostat is 
working fine and running the engine without the thermostat still didn’t help. 
Is that normal that the hose from the engine block to the heat exchanger is 
empty without coolant when I check it?



MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz

“To most people, the sky is the limit. To those who love aviation, the sky is 
home. “Jerry Crawford

"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid

"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali


On Aug 25, 2020, at 8:12 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:


Sounds like you may have solved your own problem.  If the one hose leading to 
the thermostat is cold and the other is hot then you should check that the 
thermostat is working.  You can remove it and test in a pot of hot water.  Or, 
you can even remove it and reassemble the engine (temporarily) without it to 
see if that solves the problem.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Tue, Aug 25, 2020, 22:55 Mazen Aziz via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi everyone,

Hope everyone is doing well and staying safe. So since I got the boat(C&c-3 35) 
2 months ago, I have been doing all the typical engine Maintinance. I never 
touched an engine before 
with absolutely no experience. Got the 
boat and started to follow 
the manual from oil 
change, filters, 
impellers etc. However, my 
engine now heats up and 
the idiot temp alarm 
comes off. I have a yanmar 3gm30 that has been modified to be coolant cooled.

My engine had unknown green 
coolant, I went ahead 
and flushed it and replaced it with the pink good stuff. While troubleshooting 
the overheat, I checked the impellers again(both new), pumps rotate with no 
problem or leak and sea 
water ofF the 
exhaust and no leakage 
anywhere. So I think it has to be the coolant circuit. Something weird is that 
the hose from the heat 
exchanger to 
the pump until the 
thermostat, stays cold. But from the thermostat to the engine block and the 
last hose from block to the heat 
exchanger is 
really hot. All hoses are replaced and checked for blockage. Is that an air 
block? If so, how can I bleed the system? Couldn’t find that anywhere. Also 
after the engine cools, I opened all the hoses to check if they have flow on 
them, and they all had coolant except these last 2 from the engine block to the 
heat exchanger. Is that normal? Should I fill them up manually with coolant to 
try to get rid of any air blockage?

Last but not least, I may have trouble shoot the engine so much, and now I see 
steam that comes off or close by the 1st cylinder. Also a lot of blue smoke 
from the exhaust. That 
never happened before. Did I mess up big time?

Thank you again for your time

Enterprise
C&c-35
San Francisco


MAZEN AZIZ
https://mazenaziz.wixsite.com/mazenaziz



"I don't think that architecture is only about shelter, is only about a very 
simple enclosure. It should be able to excite you, to calm you, to make you 
think." Zaha Hadid


"It isn't the mountains ahead to climb that wear you out; it's the pebble in 
your shoe." Muhammad Ali
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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