Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I wasted a few boat bucks with a so called Navtec shop in Houston.  They
might have scratched the shaft and done more harm.  Only lasted 4 years
before it started leaking.   When I got it back, I had to pump the handle
several dozen times before it finally started working.  The Houston shop
said that can happen due to shipping.  I needed to "purge" it.  Yeah, right.

Sent it to Lew Townsend a few weeks ago.   Lew found several issues
internally perhaps due to the previous repair, who knows?  He had to polish
the shaft a bit.  Lew tested it at 5000 psi for 48 hours before he sent it
to me.I doubt a local hydraulics shop could have repaired it as well as
Lew.

Got it back Monday.  Put it on Touche' today.  It worked from the first
pump.  In fact, it was so tight I had to extend it using a cabintop winch
in order to install it.

FYI, I put a 1/2 inch stainless washer on the shaft before install.  The
washer slides down the shaft and sits on top of the cylinder.  It protects
the top seal from UV, a potential failure point.  That's what failed 4
years ago (after 17 years).

For my time and money, I'd send a Navtec to Lew again.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 9:21 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I' been said many times on this list, and I'll say it again: Lew Townsend
> in Seattle is the man to do all  your hydraulic work. (206) 498-7282.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:01 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not for nothing, I have a shitshow story about Navtech and a Florida firm
>> that I'm waiting for the dust to settle before I share the details.  Let's
>> just say between incompetence and unwillingness to stand behind their work,
>> I will be giving zero stars with 8 x 12  color photographs with circles and
>> arrows.  Reference to Woody Guthrie and and Alice's Restaurant...
>>
>>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I' been said many times on this list, and I'll say it again: Lew Townsend
in Seattle is the man to do all  your hydraulic work. (206) 498-7282.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 7:01 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not for nothing, I have a shitshow story about Navtech and a Florida firm
> that I'm waiting for the dust to settle before I share the details.  Let's
> just say between incompetence and unwillingness to stand behind their work,
> I will be giving zero stars with 8 x 12  color photographs with circles and
> arrows.  Reference to Woody Guthrie and and Alice's Restaurant...
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.com/v3/__https://www.paypal.me/stumurray__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!5hsNZz-2bsP-uf-wipHi3Hjkotv2cYQMneeXBIt02WPrXj4sIb3YrIgHzR9uKLnpvYs$
>  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Not for nothing, I have a shitshow story about Navtech and a Florida firm
that I'm waiting for the dust to settle before I share the details.  Let's
just say between incompetence and unwillingness to stand behind their work,
I will be giving zero stars with 8 x 12  color photographs with circles and
arrows.  Reference to Woody Guthrie and and Alice's Restaurant...
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 40

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Seems like my 30 before I redid it
How much $ was the 40
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 3:03 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joe,
>
> Too bad!  Better to walk away then be unhappy later.
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 2:49 PM Joe via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Sadly boat did not work out.  More deck crazing then I wanted to deal
>> with.  Joe.  Coquina
>>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
>> - Stu
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

That's a great deal, but mine are 3.5" x 7/16" wide. A guy at our club has
found me some in nylon that should work. Not as good as Delrin, but they
should do. Acetal/Delrin material is crazy expensive around here... was
going to be $90 just for material to make some.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 2:23 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a bunch of 4” X 5/8” in Black UV Delrin, $8 each without bearings.
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> Entrada, Erie, PA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Shawn Wright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 15, 2021 4:12 PM
> *To:* Stus-List
> *Cc:* Shawn Wright
> *Subject:* Stus-List 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves
>
>
>
> Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3"
> pulley diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a
> bronze bushing, but Delrin or similar would also work.
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Shawn Wright
>
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
>
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[cenelson via CnC-List]

No. They had everything they needed. Considering the volume and the size of the 
kind of cylinders they usually deal with, I got the impression that fixing my 
‘dinky little cylinder’ was something they could do over lunchtime— especially 
since the bore was fine. 
While I might be simplifying it a little, I think they cleaned it up, replaced 
all the O-rings, tested it for holding pressure and were done.

Although hardly an expert on hydraulics, I think the technology has been around 
a lot longer than Navtec. 
Good luck,
Charlie Nelson


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 6:10 PM, Riley Anderson  
wrote:

Charlie, that's good to hear. Did you also have to buy the seal kit or did the 
hydraulic shop have what you need?
On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 6:06 PM cenelson via CnC-List  
wrote:

I had mine rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop (lots of farmer implements use 
hydraulics) about 8 yrs ago for $260.
Still no leaks—!
Charlie Nelson


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 5:54 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all, 
I'm getting rid of my Navtec backstay adjuster, it needs a rebuild ($620 from 
Navtec). I put it on eBay for cheap, but I'm only going to leave the listing up 
for a month. If it doesn't sell in that time, consider it free to any lister 
who wants it. My guess is shipping should be about $30-40. The model number is 
IA7-10, pulled it from my 1976 38-ii. Navtec says these are from 1989-1999.

Here is the link to the listing if you just can't wait. Photos are on the 
listing.
-- 
Fair winds and following seas,
Charlotte Freeland & Riley AndersonSV Freight TrainMiddletown, CT USAThanks to 
all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs 
involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


-- 
Fair winds and following seas,
Charlotte Freeland & Riley AndersonSV Freight TrainMiddletown, CT USA


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Did the same on our 33-2

Paul

From: Bob Mann via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2021 4:20:17 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bob Mann 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

For my 35 mk I I got them replaced by Garhauer.

Bob
On 04/15/2021 4:11 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:


Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3" pulley 
diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a bronze bushing, 
but Delrin or similar would also work.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

I have a split backstay and dual hydraulic adjusters. I rebuilt both a couple years ago for about $26 in parts. Rebuilding it is nothing to be afraid of. Anything you need can be ordered from Hercules hydraulics through a hydraulics shop if necessary. A manual hydraulic adjuster is a pretty simple device. What you will find are an O ring or O rings and a seal usually with a sweep on the rod. I have no hydraulic experience or special tools but found it easy to work on. As they say: it’s not rocket science! Safety note: apparently hydraulic boom vangs are spring loaded!  Len MitchellS/V Crazy Legs1989 C&C 37+Midland On. Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[James Hesketh via CnC-List]

On my 1978 26 the handrails were throubolted with a single long bolt from
the outside to a nut and washer on the inside. Both inside and outside
rails have bungs to allow access to the slotted screw head from the top and
the nut on the inside.

I managed to hold the inside rail's nut by wedging a small flat-bladed
screwdriver into the recess. I expect to reinstall them the same way.

Jim Hesketh
C&C 26 Whisper
Miami, FL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Charlie, that's good to hear. Did you also have to buy the seal kit or did
the hydraulic shop have what you need?

On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 6:06 PM cenelson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I had mine rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop (lots of farmer implements
> use hydraulics) about 8 yrs ago for $260.
>
> Still no leaks—!
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> 
>
> On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 5:54 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm getting rid of my Navtec backstay adjuster, it needs a rebuild ($620
> from Navtec). I put it on eBay for cheap, but I'm only going to leave the
> listing up for a month. If it doesn't sell in that time, consider it free
> to any lister who wants it. My guess is shipping should be about $30-40.
> The model number is IA7-10, pulled it from my 1976 38-ii. Navtec says these
> are from 1989-1999.
>
> Here is the link to the listing if you just can't wait.
>  Photos are on the listing.
>
> --
> Fair winds and following seas,
>
> Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
> SV Freight Train
> Middletown, CT USA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[cenelson via CnC-List]

I had mine rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop (lots of farmer implements use 
hydraulics) about 8 yrs ago for $260.
Still no leaks—!
Charlie Nelson


Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS


On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 5:54 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all, 
I'm getting rid of my Navtec backstay adjuster, it needs a rebuild ($620 from 
Navtec). I put it on eBay for cheap, but I'm only going to leave the listing up 
for a month. If it doesn't sell in that time, consider it free to any lister 
who wants it. My guess is shipping should be about $30-40. The model number is 
IA7-10, pulled it from my 1976 38-ii. Navtec says these are from 1989-1999.

Here is the link to the listing if you just can't wait. Photos are on the 
listing.
-- 
Fair winds and following seas,
Charlotte Freeland & Riley AndersonSV Freight TrainMiddletown, CT USAThanks to 
all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs 
involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send 
contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I'm getting rid of my Navtec backstay adjuster, it needs a rebuild ($620
from Navtec). I put it on eBay for cheap, but I'm only going to leave the
listing up for a month. If it doesn't sell in that time, consider it free
to any lister who wants it. My guess is shipping should be about $30-40.
The model number is IA7-10, pulled it from my 1976 38-ii. Navtec says these
are from 1989-1999.

Here is the link to the listing if you just can't wait.
 Photos are on the listing.

-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have a bunch of 4” X 5/8” in Black UV Delrin, $8 each without bearings.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2021 4:12 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Shawn Wright
Subject: Stus-List 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

 

Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3" pulley 
diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a bronze bushing, 
but Delrin or similar would also work. 

 




--

Shawn Wright

shawngwri...@gmail.com

S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35

https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Different boat, but I have just replaced mine with the stuff from "Zephyrwerks, 
The Sheave Factory" (Zephyrwerks, The Sheave 
Factory). Really good quality. They are not the 
cheapest (around $40 each), but they are well-made.

Marek

1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON

From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 2021 4:12 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Shawn Wright 
Subject: Stus-List 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3" pulley 
diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a bronze bushing, 
but Delrin or similar would also work.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

For my 35 mk I I got them replaced by Garhauer.

Bob

> On 04/15/2021 4:11 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3" 
> pulley diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a bronze 
> bushing, but Delrin or similar would also work. 
>  
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List 35mk2 3.5" masthead sheaves

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Has anyone found a source for replacement masthead sheaves? 3.5" OD, 3"
pulley diameter, 5/8" width, 1/2" bore. Originals are aluminum with a
bronze bushing, but Delrin or similar would also work.


--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 40

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Joe,

Too bad!  Better to walk away then be unhappy later.

Joel

On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 2:49 PM Joe via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Sadly boat did not work out.  More deck crazing then I wanted to deal
> with.  Joe.  Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>


-- 
Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 40

[Joe via CnC-List]

Sadly boat did not work out.  More deck crazing then I wanted to deal with.  
Joe.  Coquina 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have a 1974 35 MKii. There are 2 additional brass screws in each leg.
Some will break because they probably have dealloyed. I did this exact job
about 10 years ago. Still good

On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 10:26 AM General Gao via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thx everyone for chiming in!
>
> My apologies I had thought I added my boat model in my signature, mine is
> a 1974 C&C 35 Mk2.
>
> I would agree with you, it would be extremely unlikely that there was no
> wood screw used; besides, who would put through holes on the cabin if they
> did not intend to use screws to fasten the handrail from inside? I used
> flashlight, and I also used screw driver to poke inside the holes, I
> couldn't find anything. I will try again today.
>
> But if anyone had worked on the same model of boat, I'd appreciate some
> kind of confirmation.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bo
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 14, 2021 at 9:38 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> It would help if you told us what model of C&C you have, Bo. Different
>> models have different means of attaching the handrails.
>>
>>
>>
>> On my 25 there is a long, probably 1/8th or 3/16ths wood screw from the
>> inside of the cabin and into the “legs” of the hand rails. The screw heads
>> are covered by plastic caps (were originally chrome plated metal) that fill
>> the holes in the headliner and cover the scre heads.
>>
>>
>>
>> On my 38, each leg of the handrail has a fastener about 2” long that is a
>> wood screw on one end and a machine screw on the other. Can’t recall the
>> name of the fastener. The wood screw is driven into the “leg” of the
>> handrail, and a washer and nut are on the machine screw end inside the
>> cabin top. The fasteners and a  lot of other stuff like backing plates for
>> winches is hidden by removable headliner panels.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’ve also been aboard a C&C that had “bungs” in the inside overhead
>> handrails that were screwed through the cabin top and into the legs of the
>> outside hand  rails.
>>
>>
>>
>> Obviously YMMV.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 14, 2021 7:18 PM
>> *To:* General Gao via CnC-List 
>> *Cc:* WILLIAM WALKER 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: handrail
>>
>>
>>
>> Bo,
>>
>> Are there visible bungs on top of handrail?  If so remove them and  see
>> if screwed from top.
>>
>> If no bungs on top of handrail they must be screwed from below.  Get a
>> bright light in one Hole and see if you can see screw head.
>>
>> I would be shocked if someone epoxied to deck.  Would be very weak
>> connection as grain of wood would be weak point.
>>
>> Bill Walker
>>
>> CnC 36
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tuesday, April 13, 2021, 09:27:29 PM CDT, General Gao via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Bob, I have not, I gave it a little bit force and it "rocked"
>> slightly. I just didn't want to break anything. Are they built with dowel
>> pins? are those two outer holes for the dowel pins?
>>
>>
>>
>> Bo
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 5:37 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Handrail is probably epoxied onto deck.  Have you tried sliding a putty
>> knife beneath each section?
>>
>> On 04/13/2021 5:07 PM General Gao via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> mine is wood external handrail. In the picture in this link, the hole in
>> the middle is where in the cabin handrail screw goes in; the two on the
>> outside were hidden under the cabin handrail, exposed after I took the it
>> off. I tried to see and feel, there was no metal inside.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bS3eUTqnZ3ZGLnMtNmKw2Q4gB7Emy8UN/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>> Am I missing something? Advice would be appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thx.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bo
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 1:26 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Mine and likely others have nuts welded(SS) or pressed (wood) into the
>> external handrail standoffs.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thus a bolt/screw on the inside screws into these nuts--more or less!
>>
>>
>>
>> I say this because depending on how well the cabin-top holes match the
>> external hand rail standoffs, it may not be possible to get a bolt/screw
>> into each standoff. If this is the case, some of the standoffs may not have
>> bolts/screws in them.
>>
>>
>>
>> In my case, with SS steel external rails and standoffs, there is no way
>> to get a misaligned screw hole to accept a nut or screw, without re
>> drilling a new hole or enlarging the original one.
>>
>>
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>>
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: General Gao via CnC-List 
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: General Gao 
>> Sent: Tue, Apr 13, 2021 12:51 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: handrail
>>
>> So I took the handrail inside the cabin off, exposed the holes hidden, I
>> assume those are for the handrail outside the cabin. There seems to be no
>> screws in those h

Stus-List Our next virtual rendezvous

[Stu via CnC-List]

Hi Folks 

I have scheduled our next zoom rendezvous for Thursday, April 22 at 7:00pm 
Eastern Time (US and Canada) 

JohnKelly Cuthbertson will be in attendance to tell of couple of stories about 
his dad and C&C and show off a couple of interesting items.

You must register in advance for this meeting:
https://us02web.zoom.us/meeting/register/tZcsd-6hpzkjEtKD2pOTZUPrTefR5qNWnq5f 

After registering, you will receive a confirmation email containing information 
about joining the meeting.

Hope to see lots of people at this event.

Stay safe & healthy

StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: handrail

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I just dredged up my comment on this subject from 2013 – FYI, on a 1973 39

 

Stus-List Re: handrail

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Thx everyone for chiming in!

My apologies I had thought I added my boat model in my signature, mine is a
1974 C&C 35 Mk2.

I would agree with you, it would be extremely unlikely that there was no
wood screw used; besides, who would put through holes on the cabin if they
did not intend to use screws to fasten the handrail from inside? I used
flashlight, and I also used screw driver to poke inside the holes, I
couldn't find anything. I will try again today.

But if anyone had worked on the same model of boat, I'd appreciate some
kind of confirmation.

Regards,

Bo


On Wed, Apr 14, 2021 at 9:38 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It would help if you told us what model of C&C you have, Bo. Different
> models have different means of attaching the handrails.
>
>
>
> On my 25 there is a long, probably 1/8th or 3/16ths wood screw from the
> inside of the cabin and into the “legs” of the hand rails. The screw heads
> are covered by plastic caps (were originally chrome plated metal) that fill
> the holes in the headliner and cover the scre heads.
>
>
>
> On my 38, each leg of the handrail has a fastener about 2” long that is a
> wood screw on one end and a machine screw on the other. Can’t recall the
> name of the fastener. The wood screw is driven into the “leg” of the
> handrail, and a washer and nut are on the machine screw end inside the
> cabin top. The fasteners and a  lot of other stuff like backing plates for
> winches is hidden by removable headliner panels.
>
>
>
> I’ve also been aboard a C&C that had “bungs” in the inside overhead
> handrails that were screwed through the cabin top and into the legs of the
> outside hand  rails.
>
>
>
> Obviously YMMV.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> *From:* WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 14, 2021 7:18 PM
> *To:* General Gao via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* WILLIAM WALKER 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: handrail
>
>
>
> Bo,
>
> Are there visible bungs on top of handrail?  If so remove them and  see if
> screwed from top.
>
> If no bungs on top of handrail they must be screwed from below.  Get a
> bright light in one Hole and see if you can see screw head.
>
> I would be shocked if someone epoxied to deck.  Would be very weak
> connection as grain of wood would be weak point.
>
> Bill Walker
>
> CnC 36
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, April 13, 2021, 09:27:29 PM CDT, General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi Bob, I have not, I gave it a little bit force and it "rocked" slightly.
> I just didn't want to break anything. Are they built with dowel pins? are
> those two outer holes for the dowel pins?
>
>
>
> Bo
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 5:37 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Handrail is probably epoxied onto deck.  Have you tried sliding a putty
> knife beneath each section?
>
> On 04/13/2021 5:07 PM General Gao via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> mine is wood external handrail. In the picture in this link, the hole in
> the middle is where in the cabin handrail screw goes in; the two on the
> outside were hidden under the cabin handrail, exposed after I took the it
> off. I tried to see and feel, there was no metal inside.
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bS3eUTqnZ3ZGLnMtNmKw2Q4gB7Emy8UN/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
> Am I missing something? Advice would be appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thx.
>
>
>
> Bo
>
>
>
> On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 1:26 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Mine and likely others have nuts welded(SS) or pressed (wood) into the
> external handrail standoffs.
>
>
>
> Thus a bolt/screw on the inside screws into these nuts--more or less!
>
>
>
> I say this because depending on how well the cabin-top holes match the
> external hand rail standoffs, it may not be possible to get a bolt/screw
> into each standoff. If this is the case, some of the standoffs may not have
> bolts/screws in them.
>
>
>
> In my case, with SS steel external rails and standoffs, there is no way to
> get a misaligned screw hole to accept a nut or screw, without re drilling a
> new hole or enlarging the original one.
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: General Gao via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: General Gao 
> Sent: Tue, Apr 13, 2021 12:51 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: handrail
>
> So I took the handrail inside the cabin off, exposed the holes hidden, I
> assume those are for the handrail outside the cabin. There seems to be no
> screws in those holes. Is the outside handrail attached to the cabin with
> screws or something? Mine isn’t coming off yet.
>
>
>
> Thx
>
>
>
> Bo
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 29, 2021 at 12:21 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Agree, I said glue but always use varnish.
>
> Bill Walker
>
>
>
> On Monday, March 29, 2021, 06:47:16 AM EDT, James Hesketh via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> WILLIAM  wrote:
>
> snip >>
>
>