Stus-List Re: Line question

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

This guide from Worst Marine has some really good information, comparing
stretch and other characteristics of many lines.
https://newcontent.westmarine.com/documents/pdfs/OwnersManuals/SAILBOAT_HARDWARE/Line%20Selection%20Guide%202018.pdf
Combine this with recent pricing from a few different suppliers and you
have a good idea of what the tradeoffs are.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 27 Apr 2021 at 18:40, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks folks for all the responses.  I know a lot more than before,
> although still sadly lacking.  Thanks for the PS article which helped some
> as well.
> If I've understood correctly, the general consensus seems to be a double
> braid is the way to go for a guy just cruising around.
> I did remember one response that mentioned that Sta-set might be more
> expensive than needed.  What would be cheaper versions of a double braid.
> Would Novabraid and Samson XLS be examples?  I do recall the Samson name
> from decades ago.  Was there a double braid from Samson cheaper than XLS
> that's still around?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder seam

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

I could carry it. Lifting it up to install it not doable single handed.
Getting the alignment in the tube, while handling the weight, without help
lasted about 5 min. I dropped it ok single handed. Two can install it
without much trouble.

On Mon., Apr. 26, 2021, 2:55 p.m. G Gao via CnC-List, 
wrote:

> Does anyone know the weight of a rudder of this size? Just curious.
>
> Bo
>
> On Mon, Apr 26, 2021 at 2:37 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Garry; that is an amazing story! the skin just fell off the rudder? I
>> have never heard of that!   Are you in an area where it freezes all winter?
>>
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
>> 502-584-7255
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Garry Cross via CnC-List 
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Garry Cross 
>> Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2021 2:25 pm
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: rudder seam
>>
>> I have a 35MkII. I had a crack near the top of the rudder. I thought I
>> fixed it by wrapping the crack with a couple of sheets of glass, fairing
>> etc. Attempted to seal the shaft. I was new and didn't know anything about
>> fixing boats. Anyway it cracked again. Learned about draining the rudder in
>> the winter. Did that but did not fix the crack. Next haul out the skin was
>> gone from my rudder and most of the foam. The stock has a steel plate
>> welded to it and was in good shape.
>> I had it repaired for around 3 boat bucks Cdn. The guy who did it foamed
>> and faired the shape and then wrapped cloth completely around it, faired
>> and interprotected it.
>> Only one season in so fingers crossed it won't split again.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KNh5rRxXr3E9Y8DxBbIOXvvC3bBZ5XUs/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Garry Cross
>> 1974 C MKII
>>
>> On Apr 24, 2021, at 5:14 PM, G Gao via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Continuing my adventure with sailing and my boat...looking for advise
>> from experienced sailors, as always...
>>
>> Today as I was observing the hull condition, I found that my rudder had
>> the seam showing in this picture:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D5lgN8g9YE9EAxo4RPYL9sO4vUnhYVqF/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Is this something serious or I can patch it up myself?
>>
>> thank you in advance.
>>
>> Bo
>>
>>
>> --
>> 1974 C 35 MK2
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>  Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks
>> - Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: rudder seam

[Garry Cross via CnC-List]

Lake Ontario. So yes below 0C for most days. Dec - Mar. One can imagine on
a close haul with the weather helm not properly tuned the stress on the
rudder would open the crack and peel the skin off.

On Mon., Apr. 26, 2021, 2:37 p.m. Richard Bush via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Garry; that is an amazing story! the skin just fell off the rudder? I have
> never heard of that!   Are you in an area where it freezes all winter?
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37; Ohio River, Mile 596;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Garry Cross via CnC-List 
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Garry Cross 
> Sent: Mon, Apr 26, 2021 2:25 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: rudder seam
>
> I have a 35MkII. I had a crack near the top of the rudder. I thought I
> fixed it by wrapping the crack with a couple of sheets of glass, fairing
> etc. Attempted to seal the shaft. I was new and didn't know anything about
> fixing boats. Anyway it cracked again. Learned about draining the rudder in
> the winter. Did that but did not fix the crack. Next haul out the skin was
> gone from my rudder and most of the foam. The stock has a steel plate
> welded to it and was in good shape.
> I had it repaired for around 3 boat bucks Cdn. The guy who did it foamed
> and faired the shape and then wrapped cloth completely around it, faired
> and interprotected it.
> Only one season in so fingers crossed it won't split again.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KNh5rRxXr3E9Y8DxBbIOXvvC3bBZ5XUs/view?usp=sharing
>
> Garry Cross
> 1974 C MKII
>
> On Apr 24, 2021, at 5:14 PM, G Gao via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> 
> Continuing my adventure with sailing and my boat...looking for advise from
> experienced sailors, as always...
>
> Today as I was observing the hull condition, I found that my rudder had
> the seam showing in this picture:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D5lgN8g9YE9EAxo4RPYL9sO4vUnhYVqF/view?usp=sharing
>
> Is this something serious or I can patch it up myself?
>
> thank you in advance.
>
> Bo
>
>
> --
> 1974 C 35 MK2
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Line question. 33-2 main halyard

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Take a look at Marlow D2 Club.  It uses a cheaper dyneema core (SK38) than
racing lines, but stretches much less than Sta Set for almost the same
price.

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 11:24 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am facing a similar decision now. My two jib halyards were new when I
> bought her two years ago, and are still like new. They appear to be a good
> low stretch double braid with a distinctive square pattern; I've been told
> it looks like Marlow. They are quite thin, 5/16" or so, but seem to have no
> more stretch than the main which is 7/16 or 3/8 (hard to tell for sure, it
> is a bit worn, but shows no significant chafe anywhere. My new nylon
> sheaves are a bit narrower, so the main halyard is a snug fit. It will
> work, and I will probably try it for a while, but when I do replace, I will
> probably go to 3/8 or even 5/16 in a low stretch double braid. Has anyone
> tried these, or this brand?
> https://www.lanexyachting.com/en/ready-made-halyard/p-32/
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 2:32 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> My main halyard was chafing where  it rested on the masthead turning
>> block when the sail was furled, I expect because I was clipping its halyard
>> to the lifeline, later switched to the end of the boom.  I had neatly
>> spliced a shackle for the headboard. So I couldn’t ‘freshen the nip’ by
>> shortening the halyard, nor could I end-for-end it to extend its life.  So,
>> next time no splice, I will simply tie it.  thanks for the suggestion josh.
>> It’s worn enough that next time is now...
>>
>> The halyard is specified as wire/rope, 94’ total, and the rope diameter
>> is 7/16”.   I had switched to rope previously, some kind of mid priced low
>> stretch Dacron double braid.
>>
>> Other than comfort - is there any reason I must use 7/16, or could I
>> reduce to 3/8”?  It’s a pile of line to stow when the main is set.
>> Any line recommended for ease of coiling  and handling? (Would be a
>> nuisance to have to wrassle with it...)
>>
>> Thanks all.   Dave
>>
>>
>> 33-2
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Apr 28, 2021, at 12:59 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Yes Ron, double braid is really the only best option.  It appears that
>> you have interpreted the graph in the same manner as I.  There are a few
>> other factors that are going to impact your choice.
>>
>> I got the Samson XLS dirt cheap for my check stays.  I chose it for its
>> cost first, color second, and ability to splice core to core third.  It has
>> performed fine in this application.  My only complaint is that it doesn't
>> flake neatly and I'm regularly fighting with hockles.  Sta-set has never
>> given me the problems that XLS does.  If you can find the novabraid in a
>> desirable color I might suggest pursuing that option.
>>
>> There is a color scheme that I found online which you may want to
>> consider.  Green for mainsail, blue for headsail, red for spinnaker.
>> Solids for halyards.  Various fleck colors and patterns for the sheets and
>> control lines.  In this manner you and anyone else can quickly identify any
>> line associated with the mainsail because of its "green" scheme.
>>
>> And since you are talking about a halyard, a lot of people like to make a
>> core to core eye splice for attaching to the headboard shackle.  Consider
>> that the spice will stiffen and thicken line for 1 to 2 feet.  This is the
>> exact area where the line will pass through the masthead sheave.  It is
>> also the place where added resistance when hoisting the main is least
>> desired.  Instead you might try a double over hand on itself.  Read more
>> here:
>> http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/46/doitie.html
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 21:40 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks folks for all the responses.  I know a lot more than before,
>>> although still sadly lacking.  Thanks for the PS article which helped some
>>> as well.
>>> If I've understood correctly, the general consensus seems to be a double
>>> braid is the way to go for a guy just cruising around.
>>> I did remember one response that mentioned that Sta-set might be more
>>> expensive than needed.  What would be cheaper versions of a double braid.
>>> Would Novabraid and Samson XLS be examples?  I do recall the Samson name
>>> from decades ago.  Was there a double braid from Samson cheaper than XLS
>>> that's still around?
>>> Ron
>>> Wild Cheri
>>> C 30-1
>>> STL
>>>
>>> Thanks 

Stus-List Re: Line question. 33-2 main halyard

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I am facing a similar decision now. My two jib halyards were new when I
bought her two years ago, and are still like new. They appear to be a good
low stretch double braid with a distinctive square pattern; I've been told
it looks like Marlow. They are quite thin, 5/16" or so, but seem to have no
more stretch than the main which is 7/16 or 3/8 (hard to tell for sure, it
is a bit worn, but shows no significant chafe anywhere. My new nylon
sheaves are a bit narrower, so the main halyard is a snug fit. It will
work, and I will probably try it for a while, but when I do replace, I will
probably go to 3/8 or even 5/16 in a low stretch double braid. Has anyone
tried these, or this brand?
https://www.lanexyachting.com/en/ready-made-halyard/p-32/

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 2:32 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My main halyard was chafing where  it rested on the masthead turning block
> when the sail was furled, I expect because I was clipping its halyard to
> the lifeline, later switched to the end of the boom.  I had neatly spliced
> a shackle for the headboard. So I couldn’t ‘freshen the nip’ by shortening
> the halyard, nor could I end-for-end it to extend its life.  So, next time
> no splice, I will simply tie it.  thanks for the suggestion josh. It’s worn
> enough that next time is now...
>
> The halyard is specified as wire/rope, 94’ total, and the rope diameter is
> 7/16”.   I had switched to rope previously, some kind of mid priced low
> stretch Dacron double braid.
>
> Other than comfort - is there any reason I must use 7/16, or could I
> reduce to 3/8”?  It’s a pile of line to stow when the main is set.
> Any line recommended for ease of coiling  and handling? (Would be a
> nuisance to have to wrassle with it...)
>
> Thanks all.   Dave
>
>
> 33-2
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 28, 2021, at 12:59 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Yes Ron, double braid is really the only best option.  It appears that you
> have interpreted the graph in the same manner as I.  There are a few other
> factors that are going to impact your choice.
>
> I got the Samson XLS dirt cheap for my check stays.  I chose it for its
> cost first, color second, and ability to splice core to core third.  It has
> performed fine in this application.  My only complaint is that it doesn't
> flake neatly and I'm regularly fighting with hockles.  Sta-set has never
> given me the problems that XLS does.  If you can find the novabraid in a
> desirable color I might suggest pursuing that option.
>
> There is a color scheme that I found online which you may want to
> consider.  Green for mainsail, blue for headsail, red for spinnaker.
> Solids for halyards.  Various fleck colors and patterns for the sheets and
> control lines.  In this manner you and anyone else can quickly identify any
> line associated with the mainsail because of its "green" scheme.
>
> And since you are talking about a halyard, a lot of people like to make a
> core to core eye splice for attaching to the headboard shackle.  Consider
> that the spice will stiffen and thicken line for 1 to 2 feet.  This is the
> exact area where the line will pass through the masthead sheave.  It is
> also the place where added resistance when hoisting the main is least
> desired.  Instead you might try a double over hand on itself.  Read more
> here:
> http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/46/doitie.html
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 21:40 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks folks for all the responses.  I know a lot more than before,
>> although still sadly lacking.  Thanks for the PS article which helped some
>> as well.
>> If I've understood correctly, the general consensus seems to be a double
>> braid is the way to go for a guy just cruising around.
>> I did remember one response that mentioned that Sta-set might be more
>> expensive than needed.  What would be cheaper versions of a double braid.
>> Would Novabraid and Samson XLS be examples?  I do recall the Samson name
>> from decades ago.  Was there a double braid from Samson cheaper than XLS
>> that's still around?
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send 

Stus-List 35-2 for sale in CT $15k

[Dave S via CnC-List]

No affiliation with seller 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/701032606681881/permalink/3768275643290880/?ref=facebook_story_share

Dave- 33-2

Sent from my iPhoneThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Line question. 33-2 main halyard

[Dave S via CnC-List]

My main halyard was chafing where  it rested on the masthead turning block when 
the sail was furled, I expect because I was clipping its halyard to the 
lifeline, later switched to the end of the boom.  I had neatly spliced a 
shackle for the headboard. So I couldn’t ‘freshen the nip’ by shortening the 
halyard, nor could I end-for-end it to extend its life.  So, next time no 
splice, I will simply tie it.  thanks for the suggestion josh. It’s worn enough 
that next time is now...

The halyard is specified as wire/rope, 94’ total, and the rope diameter is 
7/16”.   I had switched to rope previously, some kind of mid priced low stretch 
Dacron double braid.

Other than comfort - is there any reason I must use 7/16, or could I reduce to 
3/8”?  It’s a pile of line to stow when the main is set.  
Any line recommended for ease of coiling  and handling? (Would be a nuisance to 
have to wrassle with it...)

Thanks all.   Dave 


33-2




Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 28, 2021, at 12:59 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes Ron, double braid is really the only best option.  It appears that you 
> have interpreted the graph in the same manner as I.  There are a few other 
> factors that are going to impact your choice.
> 
> I got the Samson XLS dirt cheap for my check stays.  I chose it for its cost 
> first, color second, and ability to splice core to core third.  It has 
> performed fine in this application.  My only complaint is that it doesn't 
> flake neatly and I'm regularly fighting with hockles.  Sta-set has never 
> given me the problems that XLS does.  If you can find the novabraid in a 
> desirable color I might suggest pursuing that option.
> 
> There is a color scheme that I found online which you may want to consider.  
> Green for mainsail, blue for headsail, red for spinnaker.  Solids for 
> halyards.  Various fleck colors and patterns for the sheets and control 
> lines.  In this manner you and anyone else can quickly identify any line 
> associated with the mainsail because of its "green" scheme.
> 
> And since you are talking about a halyard, a lot of people like to make a 
> core to core eye splice for attaching to the headboard shackle.  Consider 
> that the spice will stiffen and thicken line for 1 to 2 feet.  This is the 
> exact area where the line will pass through the masthead sheave.  It is also 
> the place where added resistance when hoisting the main is least desired.  
> Instead you might try a double over hand on itself.  Read more here:
> http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/46/doitie.html
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
>> On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 21:40 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Thanks folks for all the responses.  I know a lot more than before, although 
>> still sadly lacking.  Thanks for the PS article which helped some as well.
>> If I've understood correctly, the general consensus seems to be a double 
>> braid is the way to go for a guy just cruising around.
>> I did remember one response that mentioned that Sta-set might be more 
>> expensive than needed.  What would be cheaper versions of a double braid.
>> Would Novabraid and Samson XLS be examples?  I do recall the Samson name 
>> from decades ago.  Was there a double braid from Samson cheaper than XLS 
>> that's still around?
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C 30-1
>> STL
>> 
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu