Stus-List Problem with Bilge Pump
I've been using a Jabsco diaphragm bilge pump located in the starboard cockpit locker/engine compartment for many years without any problems. The hose from the pump has a vented loop and exits at the stern. Recently, I noticed that while the pump was functioning apparently normally, no water was coming out at the stern. I removed the exit hose from the pump while it was operating and within a few seconds I had water pumping out of the pump. I replaced the hose and the water continued to pump out of the stern as it normally should. However, when I went back to the boat a few days later, the same problem was occurring. It looks like the pump is working normally but unless I pull the exit hose off the pump, it continues to run with no water actually pumping. The suction element in the bilge in clean and unobstructed Any suggestions as to how to diagnose this would be much appreciated. I'm wondering if I'm just not getting sufficient pressure from the pump to overcome the vented loop, maybe due to gaskets that need to be replaced? The pump is probably 5 or 6 years old at this point and I have never serviced it. But when I removed the hose from the pump, it seemed to be coming out with quite a bit of pressure. Thanks in advance. Al SerratoSenza FineC & C 34San Francisco BayPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Cockpit Floor Grating for a 34
Hello all, I'm thinking about adding a teak (or trex) cockpit grating to my 1981 C&C 34. Does anyone know where I could find a kit for assembly that would fit the contours of the cockpit? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks. Al SerratoSenza FineSan Francisco BayThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Overheating Yanmar 3GMD
I had an unusual experience yesterday and am looking for any ideas on next steps. I have a Yanmar 3GMD in my ‘81 C&C 34. I had used the motor for about 20 minutes going out with no problems, but after starting it in heavy winds, it rather quickly quit on me and would not start. I was heeling when I started it and the tank was half full, so I bled the line thinking that some air had gotten in, and it started right up. It ran for about 10 minutes and everything seemed normal although I thought it sounded a little different. I couldn’t put my finger on what it was that was different, and thought maybe it was my imagination but then the high temp alarm went off and the gauge showed probably around 180. (It normally runs at about 130). I shut it down and ended up getting a tow back in. The raw water strainer was clean so I thought maybe the impeller might have failed, since it’s close to two years old. But when I opened the pump, it was fine. I replaced it with a new one anyway and ran the engine for 45 minutes today at the dock, under load, and it ran fine. I always have white smoke coming out of the exhaust when I’m revving past 1800 or so, but I don’t know if what I saw today was more than usual. The engine was clean, no drips or leaks, no smells inside, just the usual smoke from the exhaust. I couldn’t figure out why both the fuel and the raw water, which seem unrelated, would both have problems at the same time, so I thought maybe it was a blown head gasket or something like that. I figured when I started it today, it would probably overheat right away again...but it didn’t. Any similar experiences or ideas on what it might be? I’ve got a call into the mechanic but haven’t heard back yet. Thanks in advance. Al Serrato Senza Fine San Francisco Bay Sent from my iPad ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Strap Hinge for Lazarette
This is what I ended up ordering - GooMeng 6" x 1.2" 316 Stainless Steel Marine Boat Strap Hinges (1 Pair) - from Amazon. I realized that I needed to search for 6 inch (total length) rather than 3 inch stainless steel boat strap hinges. This looks like it will be close enough if not an exact match. Thanks for the suggestions. Sent from my iPad > On Jun 2, 2020, at 11:21 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Can you share a photo of them? Probably different than those on my 35-2, but > I wouldn't mind replacing them with something a bit more robust. I have seen > mine under the Seadog name, and they are ok, but one is bent slightly, so > they could be a bit stronger. It probably doesn't help that the locker lids > don't fit all that well, so there is a lot of force on the hinges. I am > trying to determine how best to support the lids, instead of having them just > rest on the fiberglass. > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > > >> On Mon, Jun 1, 2020 at 8:13 PM Al Serrato via CnC-List >> wrote: >> I'm looking for a replacement strap hinge for the lazarette in the cockpit >> of my 1981 C & C 34. I've looked online quite a bit but can't seem to find a >> match, even at South Shore Yachts. >> >> The hinges are 3 inches on each side with 3 screw holes on each side. >> >> Does anyone have a suggestion as to where I can find a replacement? >> >> Thanks in advance for any advice/help. >> >> Al Serrato >> 1981 C & C 34 "Senza Fine" >> San Francisco Bay >> ___ >> >> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and >> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use >> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Strap Hinge for Lazarette
I'm looking for a replacement strap hinge for the lazarette in the cockpit of my 1981 C & C 34. I've looked online quite a bit but can't seem to find a match, even at South Shore Yachts. The hinges are 3 inches on each side with 3 screw holes on each side. Does anyone have a suggestion as to where I can find a replacement? Thanks in advance for any advice/help. Al Serrato 1981 C & C 34 "Senza Fine" San Francisco Bay___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?
I have the same boat and on mine, the locker has a hinge and I use it for extra lines/dock lines. Sent from my iPad > On May 24, 2018, at 11:49 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List > wrote: > > Dennis, > > If you are looking for backup propane storage, let me offer a suggestion. I > only can carry one tank and have a 5 kg fiberglass tank. Theoretically, you > can see the level in the tank but have to remember to check it. There is > room in my propane locker for three 1 pound camp stove cylinders. I bought > an adaptor > (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YSY20/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) > so a cylinder can be connected in place of the tank. For me this is > especially good since my propane grille and outboard use the 1 pound cylinder. > > Regards, > Ron > Ron Ricci > S/V Patriot > C&C 37+ > Bristol, RI > > ron.ri...@1968.usna.com > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DMcMillan > via CnC-List > Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:13 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: DMcMillan > Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker? > > I have a 1981 C&C with a propane locker on starboard side next to the > helmsman seat. On the port side there is an identical looking locker but the > “lid” does not have any hinges and seems to be glued down. Has anyone > converted this to a second propane locker? > > Thanks > Dennis > Andante > Victoria BC > > > ___ > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Engine Temp Gauge Not Working
I bought a 1981 34' with a 3GMD engine a few years ago. The temp warning buzzer works but the gauge has never worked, although it is in place and wired. The Yanmar manual has a section on testing the buzzer sender unit, but I don't see anything about the location of the sender unit for the gauge or how to test it. Looking for any advice on how to approach diagnosing the problem. Is it the same sender unit for both the buzzer and gauge? I haven't spent the time trying to trace all the wiring but was hoping to find something in the manual first about how the gauge is wired. Thanks in advance for any help. Al Serrato1981 C&C 34Senza FineSan Francisco Bay ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Mast Gooseneck Fitting
The metal gooseneck fitting on the mast of my '34 failed. It attaches to the mast via 4 screws on each side. One of the two metal loops that accepts the boom end broke off. I have only gotten one estimate so far based on the photo I sent to my usual boatyard, of $1100, to remove, fabricate and replace. I'm waiting to hear back from some rig shops. I haven't tried to remove the piece myself but am guessing I won't be able to with hand tools, and I'm worried about stripping the screw heads. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to repair/replace without spending so much? Is there a market out there for used pieces like this? Any help would be appreciated. Al Serrato Senza Fine 1981 '34 San Francisco Bay Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List A leak in the water system
I noticed recently that my water system has a leak in it somewhere. I don't use internal water too often, so I'm not sure when or how it started. When I went to fill the tank yesterday, I noticed that the water level dropped quickly in the tube and I started getting water in the bilge. I was short on time, so I didn't have a chance to try to find the source of the problem. Just thought I'd start by asking whether there's a usual culprit when this occurs - a place to check first - and if any one has suggestions as to how best to diagnose where the leak is coming from. I imagine that some of the water lines might be hard to see or access, and I'm not quite sure where to start. Thanks in advance for any advice/help. Al Serrato 1981 C & C 34 "Senza Fine" San Francisco Bay Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch
I'm in the San Francisco Bay area and I'm having all the cushions re-covered in Sunbrella material at a local shop for $2,600. I got a list of upholsterers from a shop that sells foam and after calling around found a place that was about $2000 less than all the other estimates. The only drawback is I'm waiting about three months for the fist half of the cushions to be done. Al 1981 34 Sent from my iPad > On Dec 18, 2015, at 11:10 AM, Nate Personal via CnC-List > wrote: > > Fleabay for good upholstery fabrics. None marine upholstery shop after that. > $100 per cushion not incl $75 total fabric cost covering all 14 new cushions. > New foam and batting included. Happy 6 years later > > Nate > 1980 30-1 > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Dec 18, 2015, at 12:26, Dennis C. via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Sunbrella is pretty pricey. Look at fabrics for patio furniture. Most are >> a fraction of the cost of Sunbrella. Heck, even Home Depot sells outdoor >> fabrics. >> >> Guess I'm lucky, Touche's cushions are in decent shape. However the pattern >> is definitely 70's retro. Who knows, in another 40 years it might be back >> in style. >> >> Dennis C. >> >>> On Fri, Dec 18, 2015 at 11:45 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> Hi Joel, >>> >>> I'm curious as to why you spec'd Sunbrella? It's forte is colour-fast after >>> years of sun exposure and it's not the most comfortable fabric to sit on. >>> >>> I suggest talking about proper upholstery fabric when dealing with your >>> supplier. >>> >>> My saloon is done in leather but that might not be the best for your style. >>> >>> Cheers, Russ >>> Sweet 35 mk-1 >>> >>> At 12:07 PM 17/12/2015, you wrote: All, Just got a quote to have the cushions in the main salon - U shaped dinette and straight berth with back cushions- recovered in Sunbrella.​  Estimate was at least $2200 depending on fabric/extras. Is that a reasonable price? Is there any good way to DIY if you don't sew? Joel 35/3 Annapolis 301 541 8551 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> >> ___ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Engine Overheat Question
I'm looking for advice on a situation that arose yesterday. I have a 34 with a 3GMD diesel with raw water cooling. I motored for about 45 minutes at 2000 rpm and then shut the engine down. Everything was running smoothly. The temp gauge showed the normal 100 degrees and I could hear water from the exhaust. I sailed for about half hour but then lost the wind and turned the motor on. The high temp alarm stayed on and the gauge showed 140 degrees. I shut it down and checked the water filter, which looked fine. I tried starting it a couple more times with the same result, so I sailed back to my harbor. When I went to start it, everything worked fine again, and I ran the motor for a good 30 minutes with no issues. The gauge stayed at 100 the whole time and no alarm. I initially thought it might have been the impeller (which is about 1.5 years old right now), but when the problem arose I didn't check for the sound of exhaust water. Since it was working back at the harbor, I don't think the impeller was bad. I'm starting to think that the sending unit malfunctioned and then reset itself somehow but that's never happened before. I'm not sure what temp triggers the high temp alarm and whether the same sending unit goes to both the alarm and the gauge. Am I missing something obvious? Were there other steps I should have taken to diagnose it? I was of course concerned to run the engine for long if it was overheating. What next steps should I take, since everything seems fine right now. Thanks in advance for any help. Al Serrato C & C 34 Fidelity San Francisco Bay ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Interior Cushions
I have a 1981 C & C '34 with original cushions. I recently got an estimate from a local marine canvas shop for replacement of all the fabric (retaining the original foam) using the lowest cost sunbrella material. I was surprised to see it was over $4000 for the job, and over $6000 to replace the foam as well. I would appreciate any suggestions for alternative ways to go on upgrading the interior upholstery. Thanks in advance. Al Serrato Fidelity San Francisco Bay Sent from my iPad ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum
I'm happy with the list as well. Sent from my iPad > On Mar 13, 2015, at 4:24 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List > wrote: > > I would vote list. > > > All the best, > > Edd > > --- > Edd M. Schillay > Starship Enterprise > NCC-1701-B > C&C 37+ | City Island, NY > www.StarshipSailing.com > --- > 914.332.4400 | Office > 914.774.9767 | Mobile > --- > Sent via iPhone 6 > iPhone. iTypos. iApologize > > On Mar 13, 2015, at 6:41 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List > wrote: > > I'm with Dennis ... Old and like email ! > > Paul. :) > > > On Mar 13, 2015, at 6:16 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > >> 1) I can set my email to "thread" view. No advantage for me to go to forum. >> 2) How mobile friendly would forum be? I read a lot of the list mails on my >> smartphone. >> >> I'm old and don't like change. Slight preference to maintain current system. >> >> Dennis C. >> >>> On Fri, Mar 13, 2015 at 4:32 PM, Stu via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> Recently, some of our subscribers have indicated that they would like to >>> have a “Forum” similar to “cruisersforum” or “sailnet” instead of an email >>> list (like this one). >>> >>> PROS: >>> 1. Eliminate the costs related to the email list >>> 2. Follow a thread easier without having to read multiple emails. >>> 3. Easier to find past, archived messages and threads. >>> 4. Possible addition of public and private photo albums. >>> 5. Easily moderated by more than one person. Threads can be deleted and >>> undesirable subscribers blocked. >>> 6. No more 20-30 emails a day. Visit the site at your convenience and view >>> the latest topics since your last visit. >>> >>> CONS: >>> 1. Forum software runs from free to around $250 depending on additional >>> enhancements. >>> 2. Might (???) require additional disk space and bandwidth on hosting site. >>> () >>> 3. Installation – I’ve done it before and it does take some time. And a >>> bit more time involved to get it tweeked to perfection. >>> >>> Bottom line – would you rather have a FORUM or continue using this list? >>> It does not matter to me. >>> >>> Stu >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> Email address: >>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the >>> bottom of page at: >>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com >> ___ >> >> Email address: >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom >> of page at: >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > ___ > > Email address: > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom > of page at: > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Fresh water flush of engine
I have a 1981 '34 with a Yanmar 3GMD engine with seawater cooling. A mechanic recommended that I install a t-valve for the raw water intake so I can flush the engine with fresh water occasionally. The engine appears to be in good condition and runs well in the two years I have owned the boat but I suspect that it is the original, making it 33 years old. While this makes sense, I'm wondering whether it's necessary at this point, given the age of the engine. in other words, is the damage already do Everything? Also, I'm wondering what the long term effect of seawater cooling is and what failures or problems result from the seawater over long periods of time. What is the likely useful life of a marine Yanmar diesel? Thanks for any advice or suggestions. Al Serrato Fidelity 1981 C & C 34 San Francisco Bay ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List C&C 30 MK1
This turned into a very big project on my 1981 '34. I had a metal pedestal that needed to be disassembled to get at the cable (which was frayed) and the hardware was so badly rusted/frozen that it turned out installing a whole new pedestal made more sense. I now have the more modern style shifter and throttle, with labels, instead of the up/down metal handles that used to be there, so I'm happy with the result (especially ease of use/performance but also appearance) but it cost quite a bit more than I was expecting. Sent from my iPad > On Apr 28, 2014, at 8:04 AM, Curtis wrote: > > SO, Its time to change the shift cable on my 1981 C&C30 MK1. The cable that > is there now has always been tight and hard to shift. Is there a better style > or different cable to make the shifting easier? I just got back from the BVI > we Where we rented a 36-I and it shifted very nice. I have never owned a > different sail boat and there-fore had nothing to judge by. But now after a > week with great shifting I think its time to change mine out. My boat has a > red cable. my shiftier is on the left of the console and the throttle is on > the right side. The throttle seams fine. Any Suggestions? > Thanks for your help and advice. > > > > > -- > "All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty > recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the > dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open > eyes, to make it possible." > > T. E. Lawrence > > . > > > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Plumbing Question - C & C 34
I've got a '81 34 and I wanted to make sure I know where all the thru hulls are. My question is where the foot-pump operated water supply is coming from. On other boats, I've seen the thru hull under the sink, but on this boat, the closest thru hull is the drain for the sink. I don't see a water source. My other question is whether there is some difference between the two faucet handles on the sink, or whether they're both coming from the water tank. The boat isn't equipped for hot water, so I was wondering why they built it that way. Maybe for some future hot water installation? Thanks in advance for the help. Al Serrato 1981 C & C 34 Fidelity San Francisco Bay___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Tachometer Replacment
The tach on my 1981 34 (with a 3GM yanmar diesel) stopped working shortly after I boat the boat last year. It was intermittent for a while and then just stopped altogether. I used a voltmeter to check the four-prong plug and it looks like there is juice coming through, so I don't think its a wiring issue. There is a black ground, a red wire that shows 14 volts with the engine running and two other wires that show a pulsing pattern on the voltmeter. I thought it would make sense to swap out the gauge with a new one, but finding a replacement part seems a bit trickier than I anticipated. There's no part number on the gauge itself, just some hard to read letters on the back (NS3 with three symbols below) and 1:1 12 v. The front of the gauge reads Nippon Seiki N-2 and P= 97. Any suggestions on where to find a replacement gauge and/or other possible solutions would be appreciated.___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Line on sale
Sounds like a good time to upgrade my mainsheet. Does anyone know offhand the length of the mainsheet for a 34? I won't be able to get to the boat to measure today. From: Joel Aronson To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Sent: Friday, September 27, 2013 6:08 AM Subject: Stus-List Line on sale West has line on sale for 40% off, today only! -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Lifelines
Thanks for the suggestions. The kits look easy enough but I was concerned about whether a hand tool can give me a strong enough swage connection. I thought a big compression machine was needed to get it to bond correctly. On Aug 29, 2013, at 8:33 AM, Curtis wrote: > I used the amsteel blue option been there its 2nd session. Works great. PHFR > race rules now approve on its use. Use the Bromal splice and use the neoprene > thimbles in the loops. Good luck and keep us posted on the new to you boat... > Congratulations on a great purchase.. > Cheers, > > here is a shot om my life lines. http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/ > > Here is a short video on the > splice.https://www.google.com/webhp?source=search_app#q=brummel+splice&spell=1 > > > On Thu, Aug 29, 2013 at 11:07 AM, wrote: >> >> Al >> >> Just go to Defender Marine (defender.com) and buy a lifeline kit. It will >> come with everything that you need to replace the wire. Use bare s/s wire >> and the coated stuff. >> >> Jack Fitzgerald >> HONEY - US12788 >> C&C 39 TM >> >> In a message dated 8/29/2013 11:01:56 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >> aserrat...@yahoo.com writes: >>> I recently purchased a 1981 C & C 34 and would like to replace the >>> lifelines, which are looking pretty much the worse for wear. The upper >>> forward lines don't have turnbuckles either forward or aft and so are >>> sagging, and the lower set are smaller diameter than the upper. All are >>> sheathed in plastic. >>> >>> I was planning on doing it myself, but wasn't sure of the best way to go >>> about making the change, whether there are upgrades to consider, and what >>> common mistakes I should try to avoid. For instance,I understand that >>> coated wire is no longer recommended. >>> >>> Any suggestions would be appreciated. >>> >>> Al >>> Fidelity >>> 1981 C & C 34 >>> San Francisco Bay >> = >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com >> >> ___ >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album >> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com > > > > -- > “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should > really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat > > ___ > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album > http://www.cncphotoalbum.com > CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Lifelines
> I recently purchased a 1981 C & C 34 and would like to replace the lifelines, > which are looking pretty much the worse for wear. The upper forward lines > don't have turnbuckles either forward or aft and so are sagging, and the > lower set are smaller diameter than the upper. All are sheathed in plastic. > > I was planning on doing it myself, but wasn't sure of the best way to go > about making the change, whether there are upgrades to consider, and what > common mistakes I should try to avoid. For instance,I understand that coated > wire is no longer recommended. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated. > > Al > Fidelity > 1981 C & C 34 > San Francisco Bay ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
