Re: Stus-List Boat AC Outlets
IN Ontario you need GFI protection on circuits *under *30 amps On 23/03/2014 10:53 PM, Rich Knowles wrote: FWIW GFCI's in a marine environment can be a real nuisance when they trip due to small leakage currents caused by humidity and salt etc. They are generally not required by electrical code on shore power outlets and in RV parks. On board one in each AC branch circuit is adequate as a string of outlets can be run off and be protected by one GFCI. Rich On Mar 23, 2014, at 22:24, Ken Heaton kenhea...@gmail.com mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com wrote: Hello Edd, In one of my former lives I worked as a Journeyman Construction Maintenance Electrician. One of those Tradesman guys. I really don't think there is such a thing as a marine GFI. Just buy brand some name GFI's and install them. They may not last more than 8 or 10 years in that environment but they're relatively cheap so no great loss. On the other hand, if you do want to spend money, the GFCI's on pages 20 and 21 of this Hubbell Brochure are some of the best out there: http://www.hubbell-wiring.com/press/pdfs/h5254.pdf I wouldn't bother with the tamper resistant ones, I find that feature annoying. Ken H. On 23 March 2014 19:41, Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com mailto:e...@schillay.com wrote: Listers, It looks like the Enterprise's AC system has suffered some corrosion over the winter and I'm thinking of doing a bit of an overhaul, including replacing some of the outlets on board with GFI ones that will stand up to a marine environment. Anyone have a recommendation on the best outlets to buy? Looks like Defender and West Marine don't sell any. Links would be appreciated. All the best, Edd --- Edd M. Schillay Starship Enterprise NCC-1701-B CC 37+ | City Island, NY www.StarshipSailing.com http://www.StarshipSailing.com --- 914.332.4400 tel:914.332.4400 | Office 914.332.1671 tel:914.332.1671 | Fax 914.774.9767 tel:914.774.9767 | Mobile --- Sent via iPhone 5 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List [Bulk] CC 33 Mkii 1985 - Bildge/Power
Maybe not a boat problem ,quite possibly the breaker is old and weak and therefore trips more readily .Replace the breaker and see if that helps first On 12/10/2013 12:36 AM, Derek Stanger wrote: Hello to all. My first post. I'm the new owner of a previously well loved CC 33 mkii 1985. I'm going through I think the normal new boat challenges/headaches/expenses...but in particular a couple that I'd like some advice on: 1. Upon cleaning a really smelly,slimy bilge today (salt water, Vancouver BC) I noticed water spraying into the bilge from an old screw hole (low in the bilge, on forward side, used for holding bilge line). It stopped spraying/dribbling after approx. 10 min (and a bit of a panic). I'm assuming the putty fill (as shown in the owners manual) forward of the bilge wall might have voids that fill with the raising water in the bilge? When the bilge is emptied the water forward has some head to it and comes back into the bilge. Does this all make sense? Should I be concerned? What can I do? 2. With winter arriving, I've been trying to plug into shore power. Unfortunately our service is only 15 Amps. All I have running is a smart charger (drawing 5 amps at 120V) and a saucer heater drawing 0.7 amps. The breaker on the shore panel keeps tripping. I checked the charger by plugging it in direct...and all fine. I bought a new cable with a more positive connection to the pigtail. To no avail. So, I think I have a problem on the boat. Any suggestions? Thanks. Any thoughts appreciated. Derek Stanger ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 26 Sheaves
That was me ! This was the first winter that I ever left the mast up and the first time I have ever had to send someone up the mast ! There is a moral there I think ? Thanx for this information . I suspect my 1/8 messenger line popped off the sheave and the splice to the 3/8 halyard line is jamming up .but if I'm going to winch someone up there I would like to be prepared . Its been raining every time I tried to look up at the masthead with the binos and so far I haven't been able to see what is exactly wrong On 11/06/2013 6:15 PM, Sam Salter wrote: Somebody asked yesterday about the main halyard sheaves at the mast top for the CC 26. I rebuilt my mast a couple of winters ago (new sheaves; halyards; standing rigging; spinnaker crane). I've just found the invoice from: http://www.zephyrwerks.com/default.asp This guy is in Port Townsend, Washington. Three sheeves (black Delrin with bronze bushes) were $38 each. I changed the original aluminum sheaves for wire/rope to all rope (5/16). The box at the top of the mast is pretty tight up there, so the new sheaves were a match with the old sheaves. I ordered: 3 Dia x 9/16 wide with a bronze bush for a pin dia of 0.432. (I'm sure the original pin dia was 7/16 - 0.4375 but wear over the last 36 years had reduced the pin dia, so I ordered to suite) The new sheaves fitted perfectly. (I've got the old aluminum sheave in my hand as I write this, so the above is accurate) sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New owner of CC 26
Thanks ,I did see Sams response . This is such a great site ! On 11/06/2013 7:37 PM, David Donnelly wrote: David, I think Sam has provided the information you requested in another post, at least as it was on his boat. I will have a look at mine prior to raising for comparisons sake and report. Even though I have no immediate plans to change anything, I have identified the sheaves and internal wire halyards as an item that can be upgraded. Although the sheaves are not terribly worn they do show wear grooves and are a problem waiting to happen down the road. My plan was to do as Sam has done and change the sheaves and get rid of the wire. Regards, David Donnelly Mistress CC 26 - 77 On 11/06/2013 3:49 AM, David Drake wrote: congratulations They are great little boats !Easy to maintain ,easy to singlehand,easier to trailer than a 41 (haha) I do have a question though ,could you determine what diameter the main halyard sheave is and the pin as well befor you step your mast ? Just launched mine last Friday and find that my main halyard is snagged on something and I suspect the sheave is the problem Thanks and Good Sailing DDrake 73 JH CC 26 On 2013-06-11, at 12:12 AM, Danny Haughey djhaug...@juno.com wrote: Hi David! Congrats on the new to you boat! There must be no Vikings at your location! Lol Good luck Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport point, ma From my Android phone Original message From: David Donnelly da...@gnuattitude.ca Date: 06/10/2013 11:35 PM (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List New owner of CC 26 Hi, this is my first post to the list. I have been following the list for a while and have just purchased a 1977 CC 26. Mistress is in very good condition and is well rigged and has good sails. And even though she isn't in the water yet I know she will be the prettiest boat at the club ;-)... See I have been reading! I live in Edmonton, Alberta and purchased the boat in Gimli, Manitoba. This past weekend I completed the trailering of the boat here where I hope to launch in the next couple of weeks. This is her on the trailer prior to me leaving for home, http://www.flickr.com/photos/97287685@N03/9011954681/ After having now made the plunge and covered all the initial hurdles of getting her to Edmonton, the next step is getting her in the water and the mast up. This being a first sail boat for me I am a bit intimidated since this is the first stepping of the mast for me. I don't have any specific questions for the list today but I am sure I will have many in the days and weeks to come. That is it for the short introduction. I see I am even the second 26 owner to make a first post to the list today. I bet that doesn't happen everyday. Regards, David Donnelly Mistress CC 26 - 77 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List - Handrail heartbreak
I thought I did have some photos but I guesss that was a computer crash ago . I will be at the boat this weekend and take a few pics and post them I made them myself from 1 ss tubing and SS standoff fittings Took 4- 10 ft lengths and bent them to a slight curve to match the cabin top curve Cut them to length so that I had 2 long exterior rails and 2 shorter interior rails . I matched the standoffs ,inside to outside and thru bolted the standoffs to each other ,much like the original teak rails but much stronger. I did seal the thru bolts with butly tape and have no leaks for 3 years now On 16/04/2013 8:04 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote: Really? Got any photos? That was suggested by another Viking owner. Danny -- Original Message -- From: D.Drake d...@rogers.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List - Handrail heartbreak Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 21:22:04 -0400 Mine broke as I was installing it ! I feel your pain . I have since replaced the wood grab rails with Stainless ones On 15/04/2013 8:32 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote: So, I decided to make new handrails for Lolita. All I could find on line were A.) not long enough and B.) 12 on center for the loops. Mine are 11.5 on center. I go out Saturday morning and buy a couple 5 x 12' rough cut boards (one as an extra), buy myself a router and router table and I'm off and running. Well, I noticed a couple knarly areas but they seemed solid, I tried to bend them and twist them and the knot was not well formed and definitely seemed solid (you already know where this is going right?) I worked on these the rest of the day Saturday and a good part of Sunday. I had just started finish sanding and the opposite end slipped off the table and the stupid thing broke! I was gutted! I guess better now than after I'd finished them I was all happy with how they were turning out. Lesson learned...no knots are good knots! Well at least it won't take as long this time and I only have to make one. Here are some links to the work and the heartbreak... http://sdrv.ms/103PWto http://sdrv.ms/17BaJES http://sdrv.ms/17BaQ38 You can probably see why I felt new handrails were in order when you see the new ones next to the old ones. I'm willing to bet those are original and never saw any attention. Oh, and my handrails were lagged to the deck from below instead of through bolted. Anyone else have the same condition. I'm thinking I'll to the same thing only with heavier lag bolts. This way I can completely finish them at home and won't have any touch up work after the install. At 24 hours between coats and doing the suggested 8 coats, thats a real time consuming job. Not to mention a lot of gas a 30 miles each way! Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List - Handrail heartbreak
I sourced all the components from Suncor Stainless On 16/04/2013 10:09 AM, airdale...@juno.com wrote: Where did you get the stainless ones from? -- Original Message -- From: D.Drake d...@rogers.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List - Handrail heartbreak Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 21:22:04 -0400 Mine broke as I was installing it ! I feel your pain . I have since replaced the wood grab rails with Stainless ones On 15/04/2013 8:32 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote: So, I decided to make new handrails for Lolita. All I could find on line were A.) not long enough and B.) 12 on center for the loops. Mine are 11.5 on center. I go out Saturday morning and buy a couple 5 x 12' rough cut boards (one as an extra), buy myself a router and router table and I'm off and running. Well, I noticed a couple knarly areas but they seemed solid, I tried to bend them and twist them and the knot was not well formed and definitely seemed solid (you already know where this is going right?) I worked on these the rest of the day Saturday and a good part of Sunday. I had just started finish sanding and the opposite end slipped off the table and the stupid thing broke! I was gutted! I guess better now than after I'd finished them I was all happy with how they were turning out. Lesson learned...no knots are good knots! Well at least it won't take as long this time and I only have to make one. Here are some links to the work and the heartbreak... http://sdrv.ms/103PWto http://sdrv.ms/17BaJES http://sdrv.ms/17BaQ38 You can probably see why I felt new handrails were in order when you see the new ones next to the old ones. I'm willing to bet those are original and never saw any attention. Oh, and my handrails were lagged to the deck from below instead of through bolted. Anyone else have the same condition. I'm thinking I'll to the same thing only with heavier lag bolts. This way I can completely finish them at home and won't have any touch up work after the install. At 24 hours between coats and doing the suggested 8 coats, thats a real time consuming job. Not to mention a lot of gas a 30 miles each way! Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List - Handrail heartbreak
Mine broke as I was installing it ! I feel your pain . I have since replaced the wood grab rails with Stainless ones On 15/04/2013 8:32 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote: So, I decided to make new handrails for Lolita. All I could find on line were A.) not long enough and B.) 12 on center for the loops. Mine are 11.5 on center. I go out Saturday morning and buy a couple 5 x 12' rough cut boards (one as an extra), buy myself a router and router table and I'm off and running. Well, I noticed a couple knarly areas but they seemed solid, I tried to bend them and twist them and the knot was not well formed and definitely seemed solid (you already know where this is going right?) I worked on these the rest of the day Saturday and a good part of Sunday. I had just started finish sanding and the opposite end slipped off the table and the stupid thing broke! I was gutted! I guess better now than after I'd finished them I was all happy with how they were turning out. Lesson learned...no knots are good knots! Well at least it won't take as long this time and I only have to make one. Here are some links to the work and the heartbreak... http://sdrv.ms/103PWto http://sdrv.ms/17BaJES http://sdrv.ms/17BaQ38 You can probably see why I felt new handrails were in order when you see the new ones next to the old ones. I'm willing to bet those are original and never saw any attention. Oh, and my handrails were lagged to the deck from below instead of through bolted. Anyone else have the same condition. I'm thinking I'll to the same thing only with heavier lag bolts. This way I can completely finish them at home and won't have any touch up work after the install. At 24 hours between coats and doing the suggested 8 coats, thats a real time consuming job. Not to mention a lot of gas a 30 miles each way! Danny Lolita 1973 Viking 33 Westport Point, MA ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 4200 vs Lifeseal - Removal
No silver bullet but a brass wire wheel on a shop grinder is good for cleaning up the bolts and maybe a cloth buffing wheel with green compound on the other side to polish the Stainless bits back up . The buffing wheel will also help remove a lot of old caulking Is there a silver bullet process - heat, mechanical, chemical that works best?? Harry /MIRAGE/ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List propellers
Allen my 1978 CC 26 has a RH 11D X 7P X 3/4 prop also powered by an SB8 Not the fastest boat in the herd by any means .Can't offer any go fast advice but what speed are you getting (flat water no wind ) I usually manage 4.5 kts On 13/02/2013 6:38 AM, Allen White wrote: I have a 26 with a single cylinder SB8 that is not able to push the boat to hull speed easily in wind and chop. Has anyone specs on what prop should be on the boat, and any possible upgrades. The current prop is a 2 blade fixed, unsure of the specs. I cruise more than race, and seem to wind up motoring home often when the wind gives up on me. I love the boat and would welcome any advise you guys can offer. Allen CC 26 Windfall - ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Original C C keel drawings available
SAM
What exactly did you get for your $60.00?
I would be very interested in building myself a half hull model if
there was a lines drawing included .
Sans Souci II CC 26
David
On 06/01/2013 3:37 PM, Sam Salter wrote:
Contact the curator:
cura...@marmuseum.ca mailto:cura...@marmuseum.ca
I've forgotten his name, but great to deal with.
Plans for my 26 cost about $60 if I remember correctly.
sam
CC 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
On 2013-01-06, at 1:13 PM, honeys...@aol.com
mailto:honeys...@aol.com wrote:
Hello
I would love to have the drawing for my 1974 CC 39, please advise
how do I go about purchasing the lines from the museum or who do I
reach out to and how?
I bought the original builder's file from Rod Ball a few years ago
and having the plans would make my boat file complete. Thanks for any
advice that you may offer
Brgds
Jack Fitzgerald ('74 CC 39 TM)
HONEY
US127688
Savannah, GA
In a message dated 1/6/2013 11:51:00 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
paradigmat...@gmail.com mailto:paradigmat...@gmail.com writes:
When you are done with them, it would be nice if you could donate
them to the Maritime Museum of the Great Lakes in Kingston. They
have the archive of all the CC plans; several of us have bought
scans of our designs from them.
On 6 January 2013 08:10, Bob Hickson bobhick...@rogers.com
mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com wrote:
I have had the original C C blueprints for the 29 mark 2
keel scanned.
I also have a sketch of the keel bolt sizes and locations
If you would like to have the scanned PDF files, please send
me an email (bobhick...@rogers.com
mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com) and I will forward it to you
I have also located drawings for the following boats;
ØC C 39 custom (NE39) circa 1984
ØC C 62 custom (Jorge Altamirano) circa 1981
ØC C 52 custom circa 1983
ØC C 67 custom (Kingston Boat) circa 1979
ØC C 35 36 centreboard keel (same keel but 35 had a
fiberglass spacer between the keel hull) circa 1983
this also includes drawings of the centreboard and all
lifting hardware
ØC C 36 centreboard circa 1976
ØC C Evergreen circa 1977 -- Canada Cup challenger
ØC C 40 bolt on keel shoe for tall rig circa 1980
None of these drawings have been scanned to PDF so send a
separate email if you would like any of these drawings
I will look through more of the old files and provide another
list in the future
Best regards,
*Bob Hickson, P. Eng, RHI, CEA*
*/CC 29-2 Flying Colours/*
*(416) 919-2297 tel:%28416%29%20919-2297*
*bobhick...@rogers.com mailto:bobhick...@rogers.com*
**
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--
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
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Re: Stus-List Original C C keel drawings available
On 06/01/2013 8:24 PM, Sam Salter wrote: Remember, we're Canadians up here, real polite and helpful :-) Don't say that too loud eh they might figure it out ! thanx for the reply -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List MIRAGE Paint Job
BIG JOB !! LOTS OF CONTORTIONS Keep the girl and don't stop . I lost a a season doing my 26 up .The wife and I spent every spare moment working on the boat .In the end it looked fantastic .I would never do it again though ! On 02/12/2012 9:56 AM, Joel Aronson wrote: Wow. Nice work! Joel Aronson On Dec 2, 2012, at 9:18 AM, hhallgr...@cox.net mailto:hhallgr...@cox.net hhallgr...@cox.net mailto:hhallgr...@cox.net wrote: Thanks David, I have uploaded a few pictures of the project to Flickr. http://www.flickr.com/photos/46147579@N08/sets/72157632149487011/ Short day today...get Christmas tree...ready mast for storage...a little more sanding...clean up...watch Patriots. Harry MIRAGE On Sat, Dec 1, 2012 at 4:46 PM, David Risch wrote: Harry, So very impressed...keep it up. David F. Risch (401) 419-4650 (cell) ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels
I picked up a pack at West Marine several years ago .Not cheap but works well On 14/11/2012 10:44 AM, Gary Nylander wrote: Where do you get it? Gary 30-1 in the boondocks on the Eastern Shore of Maryland - Lowe's nearby, but over 50 miles to anything else - Original Message - *From:* Sam Salter mailto:sam.c.sal...@gmail.com *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Sent:* Tuesday, November 13, 2012 8:51 PM *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Headliner access panels Velcro might not be the answer, but I'm almost positive this will: http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3M-Industrial/Adhesives/Promotions-New-Products/Reclosable-Fasteners/ It's like super industrial strength velcro. It's not cheap but it is reusable. I've not used it for headliners but it secures my Velocitek Speed Puck to the mast (about 1 lb) with a small piece about 1 1/2 x 4. This stuff bites! We take it all over the world when we sail and it's conquered big winds and big seas. sam :-) C7C 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On 13/11/12 4:42 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote: Joel, I plan on replacing some of mine. I am thinking about using plastic sheeting. I stripped of the peeling vinyl a long time ago and just painted the wood. It is only 1/8 thick. ¼ plywood would be hard to keep up there using the stock Velcro. I might screw my next set on, as the Velcro just doesn't seem to work well, especially in rough conditions. Jake */Jake Brodersen/* */CC 35 Mk-III/* */Midnight Mistress/* */Hampton VA/* *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel Aronson *Sent:* Tuesday, November 13, 2012 1:43 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Stus-List Headliner access panels Several of the panels have delaminated. 1/4 inch plywood would be too thick. Is there a better replacement? Has anyone either re-used the vinyl or found a replacement? What glue would you use? Thanks! -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Bounty sinking today
Apparently Capt Wallbridge is one of the missing On 29/10/2012 3:28 PM, Richard Walter wrote: Colin writes' ...[w]hen there's already a named storm on the map, why the hell are you putting to see [sic] and heading right into it? Because St. Petersburg, FL is (was!) a paid appearance. These vessels operate on appearance fees. That said, this decision was negligence bordering on criminal. If the missing crew members are lost, there will be jail time. Richard --- On *Mon, 10/29/12, Colin Kilgour /charliekilo...@gmail.com/* wrote: From: Colin Kilgour charliekilo...@gmail.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Bounty sinking today To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Monday, October 29, 2012, 11:27 AM The storm was already hurricane strength and heading their way BEFORE they left New London. This is their Facebook post from Oct 25, the day they left. Bounty has departed New London CT...Next Port of Call...St. Petersburg, Florida. Bounty will be sailing due East out to sea before heading South to avoid the brunt of Hurricane Sandy. I'm reluctant to question the captain on the boat, but I do have quite a bit of bluewater experience in that part of the ocean. When there's already a named storm on the map, why the hell are you putting to see and heading right into it? Cheers, Colin On Mon, Oct 29, 2012 at 10:40 AM, Chuck S cscheaf...@comcast.net /mc/compose?to=cscheaf...@comcast.net wrote: Can't believe a ship like Bounty would get caught in a hurricane, but apparently she was reported today sinking and abandoned off Hatteras and USCG rescued 14, two still missing? http://www2.wnct.com/news/2012/oct/29/7/coast-guard-rescue-underway-hatteras-ar-2734769/ Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R New Gretna, NJ ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com /mc/compose?to=CnC-List@cnc-list.com -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com /mc/compose?to=CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F
I would be interested to know how many minutes it took you to complete the procedure ? On 21/10/2012 11:00 AM, Sébastien Lemieux wrote: Thanks to all for the info, the procedure went very well! At least so it seem! It finally took 2 gallons of antifreeze before the water was completely flushed. Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - CC 30 mk2 1987 Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain On Oct 20, 2012, at 11:11, Sam Salter wrote: The 2GM20F is a freshwater cooled engine with a heat exchanger taking heat out of the antifreeze that permanently surrounds the cylinder block and head. So there is no need to get concerned about the thermostat as that is part of the circuit that contains antifreeze and you are not going to,drain that. The circuit that contains the raw water is: Through hull suction, strainer, raw water pump, heat exchanger, exhaust elbow, water muffler, exhaust through hull. I don't put any antifreeze through that circuit; just drain it by opening the tap at the back of the heat exchanger; opening the drain on the strainer; taking off the raw water pump and removing the impeller; opening the drain on the water muffler. That completely drains the raw water circuit - done. Reverse order in the spring! My boat is on a lake and I pull it in the fall, so it's currently on the hard. If I was in salt water I'd probably flush freshwater through it before I drained it. sam :-) CC 26 Liquorice Ghost Lake Alberta On 2012-10-20, at 5:37 AM, D.Drake d...@rogers.com mailto:d...@rogers.com wrote: Well I never actually timed the process ,but I have never had to rush around during it either ! It is a little SB 8 so how much water does it really need (haha) On 20/10/2012 7:12 AM, dwight veinot wrote: 3-4 minutes...your pump is very slow...mine puts at least 4 L through per minute...I am surprised that you don't have a cooling problem Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *D.Drake *Sent:* October 20, 2012 8:04 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F Sebastion That's pretty much how I go about it with the exception that I have crew monitor the bucket of antifreeze to ensure that it never goes dry . It takes my SB 8 Yanmar about 3-4 minutes to start spewing antifreeze out of the exhaust . at which point I stop the engine . The next step is to open the cooling circuit drain on the right (Portside) side of the engine to ensure that antifreeze is past the thermostat .The important thing is to get as much water out of the internal engine circuits as possible and fill it with antifreeze On 19/10/2012 10:53 AM, Sébastien Lemieux wrote: I'll be winterizing my 2GM20F for the first time tomorrow (saturday) and would like some advices on the practical way to fill up the raw water circuit with antifreeze. I plan on detaching the intake tube of the raw water circuit from the seacock and putting it in a bucket filled with antifreeze (I'm aiming for 2 gallons, is that enough?). Then, I assume I need to start up the engine and wait until antifreeze comes out from the exhaust thruhull. Should I just crank up the engine (with decompression lever open)? If I need to start the engine, how long should I expect to it? Do you leave the tube in the bucket unattended while you stand near the control panel to stop the engine? Thanks in advance! Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - CC 30 mk2 1987 MooneyBay - Lake Champlain ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com/ Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5341 - Release Date: 10/19/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Miscellaneous -impeller
I have had much the same experience as Sebastien .I have replaced the impellor every 3rd or 4th year in the spring on spec. I winterize with antifreeze each Fall and then pack the impelor with petroleum jelly which helps with the spring startup On 19/10/2012 9:16 AM, Sébastien Lemieux wrote: I don't have the experience of Rich but I would also lean in that direction. I've changed mine for the first time this summer after 3 years. The impeller looked in perfect condition (no cracks and blades were as flexible as a new one). I kept the old one as a spare and now feel confident that I will only inspect the impeller every spring. I've been told by a mechanic that if the raw water circuit is winterized using antifreeze (vs. drained), the impeller holds up very well. Since our impeller spends more than half the year in antifreeze, this might explain the durability! I also reasoned that since we sail on a lake with no commercial traffic and never solo there is little risk in case I have to face an impeller break down: I have a spare and tools on board, I know how to swap them. Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - CC 30 mk2 1987 Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain On Oct 18, 2012, at 21:28, Rich Knowles wrote: I check mine each season's end when I winterize. If it looks good, it goes back in. I have installed one new one in 15 years and that includes several runs of a few minutes each year without water. They are pretty durable. I check for cracking. Rich Knowles Indigo. LF38 Halifax On 2012-10-18, at 22:04, Martin DeYoung mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com wrote: ...how often do you guys change the impeller in the raw water pump? I change Calypso's 4-108 raw water impeller at the start of each season then put the lightly used old one in the spares box. It is also my practice to check the impeller prior to setting off on a longer trip where a sudden loss of cooling might be inconvenient. There has been a year or so where I did not change the impeller in the spring and the impeller perform fine with no significant change in appearance. I change the impeller after each time I forget to open the raw water inlet thru hull valve and allowed the engine to run without cooling water for more than a few minutes. Martin Calypso 1970 CC 43 Seattle -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2012 5:24 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Miscellaneous Because of excessive mussel growth on my prop and prop shaft the past several seasons, this past Spring I tried something new, namely applying lanolin to themboat was hauled this week and I can report that the lanolin was not very effective.there were approx. 3 dozen mussels attached to the prop and the prop shaft was covered as well. On another note, applied Micron 66 antifouling paint to the boat this past Spring (have been using Micron CSC for over 12 years).absolutely no growth of any kindand specifically no 'slime' which is common with the CSC.the bottom looks like it did when it was painted in the Spring and I only applied a very light coat of the '66' (actually diluted it approx. 10%)it is incredible antifouling paint.only regret is that it is not sold in Canada. And, after 7 sailing seasons, I decided to check the air filter on the Yanmar 2GMF.took the cover off to discover there was no 'actual filter' in the metal casing...ooops! There will be by next Spring. Lastly, how often do you guys changedthe impeller in the raw water pump? Not what the specs recommend but actually how often.every year, 2 years, 5 years, 10 years? Bob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F
Sebastion That's pretty much how I go about it with the exception that I have crew monitor the bucket of antifreeze to ensure that it never goes dry . It takes my SB 8 Yanmar about 3-4 minutes to start spewing antifreeze out of the exhaust . at which point I stop the engine . The next step is to open the cooling circuit drain on the right (Portside) side of the engine to ensure that antifreeze is past the thermostat .The important thing is to get as much water out of the internal engine circuits as possible and fill it with antifreeze On 19/10/2012 10:53 AM, Sébastien Lemieux wrote: I'll be winterizing my 2GM20F for the first time tomorrow (saturday) and would like some advices on the practical way to fill up the raw water circuit with antifreeze. I plan on detaching the intake tube of the raw water circuit from the seacock and putting it in a bucket filled with antifreeze (I'm aiming for 2 gallons, is that enough?). Then, I assume I need to start up the engine and wait until antifreeze comes out from the exhaust thruhull. Should I just crank up the engine (with decompression lever open)? If I need to start the engine, how long should I expect to it? Do you leave the tube in the bucket unattended while you stand near the control panel to stop the engine? Thanks in advance! Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - CC 30 mk2 1987 Mooney Bay - Lake Champlain ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F
Well I never actually timed the process ,but I have never had to rush around during it either ! It is a little SB 8 so how much water does it really need (haha) On 20/10/2012 7:12 AM, dwight veinot wrote: 3-4 minutes...your pump is very slow...mine puts at least 4 L through per minute...I am surprised that you don't have a cooling problem Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *D.Drake *Sent:* October 20, 2012 8:04 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winterizing a 2GM20F Sebastion That's pretty much how I go about it with the exception that I have crew monitor the bucket of antifreeze to ensure that it never goes dry . It takes my SB 8 Yanmar about 3-4 minutes to start spewing antifreeze out of the exhaust . at which point I stop the engine . The next step is to open the cooling circuit drain on the right (Portside) side of the engine to ensure that antifreeze is past the thermostat .The important thing is to get as much water out of the internal engine circuits as possible and fill it with antifreeze On 19/10/2012 10:53 AM, Sébastien Lemieux wrote: I'll be winterizing my 2GM20F for the first time tomorrow (saturday) and would like some advices on the practical way to fill up the raw water circuit with antifreeze. I plan on detaching the intake tube of the raw water circuit from the seacock and putting it in a bucket filled with antifreeze (I'm aiming for 2 gallons, is that enough?). Then, I assume I need to start up the engine and wait until antifreeze comes out from the exhaust thruhull. Should I just crank up the engine (with decompression lever open)? If I need to start the engine, how long should I expect to it? Do you leave the tube in the bucket unattended while you stand near the control panel to stop the engine? Thanks in advance! Sébastien Lemieux Merlot X - CC 30 mk2 1987 MooneyBay - Lake Champlain ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com http://www.avg.com Version: 2012.0.2221 / Virus Database: 2441/5341 - Release Date: 10/19/12 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fwd: CC 26
What vintage is your 26 ? Mine is a 1978 with waste tank and vent on Port side ,potable Water fill is on the opposite side ,starboard Waste tank is also located under the Vee berth on the port side On 14/09/2012 8:43 PM, wster1...@aol.com wrote: From: wster1...@aol.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: 9/14/2012 8:09:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time Subj: CC 26 Hi- New to the list my wife and I are buying a very used CC 26. I bought a manual today to see how the boat was set up when it was built in 1976. One thing that already has me confused is that the manual says the 26 has no holding tank and the head was self contained which I guess discharges into the water. But this boat has a waste cap in the deck on the starboard side and what looks like a vent in the hull. My wife is a racer and we plan on racing more than cruising but I want to get things fixed so it is comfortable so I want to fix or replace the head asap. Thanks Bill Sterling ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- D.Drake 73 Jensen Healey CC 26 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
