Stus-List 37/40+ holding tank

2018-12-06 Thread Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List
Hi guys, I'm trying to work towards getting the boat ready for a trip south
starting summer 2020 and one of the big things on my mind is the original
aluminum holding tank, which I'm told will eventually start leaking and get
a new plastic one in there, problem is getting it out, short story: friend
with same boat, he and the marine yard decided there was absolutely no way
it was coming out, cut the plastic vanity, replaced with a nice teak strip
to hide cut, looks great, $3500 and that was 5 years ago. Without taking
everything apart I'm looking at it saying but it looks like it might fit.
Question to any owners: has anyone seen this done, can anyone say it will
absolutely fit with making cuts, before I start taking things apart, I know
it's been discussed on here before but I'm hoping to find a definitive yes
or no, thanx guys.

Daryl McKelvie
Sarnia Ontario
1989 37/40+
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Stus-List 37+ backstay tension

2018-08-03 Thread Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List
Mine was rod upper and lower with no backstay adjuster at all. This year I
had the lowers made to wire to I could add a simple haul down tensioner,
works great except I have to go up and put a smaller metal ring between the
two wire blocks so when loose it will ride higher up, it's probably about a
foot and a half from the top but I want it right to the top.

Daryl McKelvie
Sarnia Ontario
SV Skelly
1989 C&C 37/40 +
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Stus-List Prop for 37/40+

2018-01-13 Thread Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List
Hi, saw a similar post, I'm going through the same thing. 1989 C&C 37/40+,
current prop Martec 2 blade fixed 15x9x1 1/8, always thought I was a bit
too small (meaning needing one more blade), is it wrong to assume I just
need the same size just one more blade? What do other 37/40 owners have?
Best cheapest place to order a new one? I'm waiting back on 3 quotes, 2
places in Florida, Deep Blue yachts and General prop and Delta props in
Ohio. I may be going to Florida at beginning of March anyway for a week so
was thinking I could order it soon so it would be done and bring it back
saving the taxes and shipping since we can claim up to 800 when coming back
after 48 hours or more, the prices I've seen on their sites for something
similar just one more blade, are 485-493 US, only want fixed bladed prop.
Thanx for any advice.

Daryl McKelvie
Sarnia Ontario
SV Skelly
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Stus-List Sherwood pump oil seal

2017-09-03 Thread Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List
Has anyone any experience replacing the oil seal at the back of the
Sherwood raw water pump? I have the replacement oil seal part number 18806,
cost 20.82, it has a green outer casing and looks like it should slide
right into the end of the pump body that faces the engine, however that
bore seems to be just slightly smaller, is there maybe a trick to this?
This is the universal M35, I realize lots have switched to the oberdorfer
and I might eventually but just want to get this one back together for now,
maybe get 1 or 2 more sails out of this year then call it a year. There
wasn't much left of the old one that came out so can't even say what it
even looked like, will be stripping the rest of the pump right down to
clean out the remnants of the old one.
Thanx very much.

Daryl McKelvie
S/V Skelly
Sarnia Ontario
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Stus-List 37+ Heat

2017-08-29 Thread Daryl McKelvie via CnC-List
Hi all, first time replying to anything here, no idea if I'm doing this
right or not.
This was our first summer with a 1989 37/40+, it has a Webasto diesel
heater mounted in the locker with the engine controls, installed by the
previous owner, have never tried it, assuming all works but we have no use
for it and will be removing it as soon as I figure out how to tackle it,
but was also installed with a separate fuel tank in the same locker, I
think it was suppose to be 15 gal but it has its own fill and the tank is
also tied into the main fuel fill hose with a shut off valve, I might even
consider leaving that tank there as a reserve but no idea yet, anyway it
appears it can be done on these boats and once I get the beast out of there
I'll be looking to get rid of it if anybody is interested.

Daryl McKelvie
S/V Skelly
1989 C&C 37/40+
Sarnia Ontario
Canada


On Tue, Aug 29, 2017 at 8:30 AM  wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>1.  37+ heat (Len Mitchell)
>2. Re:  1980 Water Systems Questions (Michael Brown)
>3. Re:  1980 Water Systems Questions (bwhitmore)
>4. Re:  37+ heat (svpegasus38)
>5. Re:  37+ heat (Josh Muckley)
>6.  More Pictures (Randy Stafford)
>7. Re:  37+ heat (Frederick G Street)
>8. Re:  C&C 44 twin adjustable backstays (Dan)
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Len Mitchell 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:04:00 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List 37+ heat
> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace
> or a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the
> best fit for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have
> advantages. What do you guys think?
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Michael Brown 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:19:25 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
> The tanks on my '77 C&C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part
> of the tank. The top of the
> forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round
> access ports and a screwed
> down access panel on both tanks.
>
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
>
>
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 20:23:56 -0400
> From: Chad Osmond 
>
> I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame
> treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this
> year with no issues.
>
> Chad
>
> On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks
> > repair within the last 4 weeks.
> >
> > If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to
> replace
> > it.
> >
> > I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
> >
> > And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard.
> >
> > Marek
> >
> >
> > *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> > *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
> >
> > Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO
> > left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything
> into
> > my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs
> to
> > be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you
> > typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the
> > fittings fastened to the tank.
> >
> > Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink
> in
> > the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from
> what I
> > can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull.
> >
> > Chris Hobson
> > s/v "Going"
> > 1980 C&C 30 MKI
>
>
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: bwhitmore 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 22:26:06 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
> Hi Michael,
>
> I was going to disagree with you, but I thought back to my 1977 C&C 27
> MKIII, and remember the inside of the tank was smooth and white, rather
> than yellowish PTFE like my 1994 C&C 37/40+.
>
> So, for your application, I was dead wrong.
>
> I would suspect.a bad fitting rather than a cracked tank.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Bruce.
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>  Original message 
> From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/28/17