Re: Stus-List Engine Stop Cable - C&C 37+

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I have been using a compression release cable for years on my 3QM30 have not 
had any water in exhaust, any other issues. I do close my water intake before 
spinning the engine for anything other than starting. During starting I pull 
the cable spin the engine for about 5-7 seconds add fuel and push in the cable. 
Engine starts right up. 
When changing my oil, I close my water valve, pull cable, with fuel off I crank 
engine until I have positive oil pressure. I have a remote mounted oil filter 
(engine has a v-drive, access is horrible) so this works great. 

Doug Mountjoy 
Pegasus
LF38

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 29, 2017, at 5:01 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Josh,
>  
> I like the idea of the solenoid.  As far as using the re-purposed cable for 
> pre-lube, I’d be concerned about pumping raw water in to the exhaust 
> manifold.  There would not be any exhaust manifold pressure while pumping raw 
> water.  Maybe I’m paranoid?
>  
> Ron
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2017 4:14 PM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Engine Stop Cable - C&C 37+
>  
> Hey Ron, 
>  
> You might want to consider eliminating the pull to stop cable all together.  
> You can see the the "engine stop solenoid" which the background of my video.  
> The PO installed this and I love it.  I'm thinking of re-purposing the pull 
> cable as a "pull to decompress".  It would then serve 2 purposes - pre start 
> decompression/pre-lube, and emergency shutdown.
>  
> https://youtu.be/mdHIt14l0R8
>  
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>  
>  
> On Jan 26, 2017 10:47 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List"  
> wrote:
> The shaft on the knob end of the engine stop cable for my Yanmar 3HM35F has 
> rusted so badly that the cable sticks.  The inner part of the original cable 
> appeared to be solid stainless steel wire.  The replacement cable inner part 
> is stranded and apparently not stainless steel.  It was easily attracted to a 
> magnet.   
>  
> I’m looking for an alternative all stainless replacement.  So far, I struck 
> out with Teleflex/Morse.  Does anyone have any recommendations.
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> 
>  
>  
> 
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Stus-List Looking for used sailboat stuff

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I would be happy to send you any of my unused tides.

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus

On Monday, December 12, 2016, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote:

> Owning a sailboat is getting more and more expensive.  I'm hoping the
> list's holiday spirit will help me to cut costs with some used stuff.
>
> Wanted:
>
> Used wind.  Will consider most directions and speeds between 5 and 11
> knots.
> Used DC amps.  12 volts.  Preferably the smokeless kind.
> Used AC amps.  120 volts 60hz will work fine.
> Used diesel (post combustion is fine).
> Used routes (with way points).  I will return any unused way points.
> Lightly used lumens (preferably from LED lighting).
> Used sunshine, preferably without UVA
> Lightly used tacks and gybes.  Please consider offering equal numbers of
> port and starboard items
>
> Please don't offer any used prop walk.  I have just enough.
>
> Happy Holidays
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>


-- 
Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38 hull #4
POYC
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Re: Stus-List Where are we buying solar panels?

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I went thru BRJ Solutions here in seattle. His prices matched the on line
prices I could find. Brian (owner) helped me design my system, helped
touble shoot a bad controllern and had a replacemect withun a few days.
Pegasus now is equipped with 2 140watt Solara rigid panels, 2 Gensun mppt
controllers, and a monitor. The panels weigh 20 lbs each and are rated at
22% efficiency. Being a live aboard my battery charger was turned off and
my batteries were fully charged by 1pm. Careful monitoring I could still be
off grid, but lazyness has prevailed.

Doug
Pegasus
LF38

On Wednesday, November 30, 2016, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> I'm trying to price out a large solar system and new house battery bank
> for a 42' cruiser and I'm curious where fellow sailors are buying solar
> panels, regulators, and batteries these days.  Amazon has tons of panels,
> but in most cases it seems the quality is questionable for marine use.  I'm
> thinking West Marine and Defender will just be too pricey.  I know where to
> go for the wire and small components - genuinedealz.com has been great.
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.  Also curious what brands of
> panels anyone has had luck with.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Ryan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>
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>


-- 
Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38 hull #4
POYC
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Re: Stus-List Fw: Strut

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I did the samething to Pegasus. Pulled the strut, cleaned the hull,
rebedded using 5200 I think, reinstalled using new hardware, doubled up
fender washers and double nutted the bolts. No leaks or loose bolts 4 years
later.
Doug Mountjoy
Pegasus
LF38 #4

On Monday, November 21, 2016, Tom Alessi via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> Hey,
> Recently wrapped a line around my prop/shaft and found some damage and a
> loose prop strut when the boat was hauled.
> Has anyone done this repair and have any advice.
> Thx
>
> Tom Alessi
> C&C 36
> Rockaway Beach, NY
>


-- 
Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger / ACR -- Some Details

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

To the best of my knowledge a 12v battery charger should not go over 14.6
or so. If it is goig to 15 to 16 volts I would be getting a new charger. A
friend had this happen with a mastervolt unit and fried his house bank of 2
T105 6v.

Doug Mountjoy
SvPegasus
LF38 #4
On Friday, November 11, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The only single bank ProSport systems are 6amps.  That is pretty small
> compared to the total capacity of your bank.  ~1%.  I can't explain it but
> maybe that's part of the problem.  Sometimes certain switching power
> supplys need a load for them to work properly.  A large enough bank and a
> small enough charger may act the same way.
>
> Did you wire it directly to the battery terminals?  Or did you go to a
> nearby bus bar or previous feeder wire?
>
> I would also like to know what a Multimeter reads at the charger terminals
> and what the meter reads at the battery terminals (if they aren't the
> same).  I'm wondering if maybe the charger isn't sensing the same voltage
> as the boat's meter and the battery.
>
> Josh
>
> On Nov 11, 2016 5:20 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > wrote:
>
>> It’s one of these: http://www.promariner.com/en/43006
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Nov 11, 2016, at 5:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Is it a two bank charger?  If so, are both charging circuits connected to
>> the batteries; one to the house bank and one to the start battery?  If so,
>> disconnect the one to the start battery and see how that works.  Let the
>> ACR charger the start bank.
>>
>> I think some chargers don't like to be wired to two banks when there's an
>> ACR or echo charger between the banks.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Fri, Nov 11, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> OK — So here’s what happens. And this may be OK, but somehow it feels
>>> like it’s not — please let me know.
>>>
>>> I plug into shore power and turn on the battery charger. It’s a ProSport
>>> and it’s hooked up to the House Bank, a set of flooded batteries. Within a
>>> few moments, the voltage goes over 13 volts and the ACR kicks in, linking
>>> the house bank to the starting battery, a sealed starting battery.
>>>
>>> After a few hours, the voltage on both battery banks are reading well
>>> into 15-16V, which makes me worried and I shut it off.
>>>
>>> I could turn the ACR off when using the charger, but that really, in my
>>> mind, defeats the purpose.
>>>
>>> Any thoughts?
>>>
>>> All the best,
>>>
>>> Edd
>>>
>>>
>>> Edd M. Schillay
>>> Starship Enterprise
>>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>>> City Island, NY
>>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
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>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>>
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>

-- 
Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA
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Re: Stus-List A4 Slips Out of Gear

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Michael, 
All ATF is wet clutch friendly, automatic transmissions all have wet clutches 
and bands. Not all wet clutch/band material is ATF friendly. Paragon and 
motorcycles use engine oil.  Due to the fact that their clutch material is 
designed for use in motor oil not ATF. On the same thought some clutch material 
is designed for Dextron (type A) and some is designed for type F (Ford). 
If your transmission says ATF type A, Use it and nothing else or you will be 
buying a new transmission. 

Doug Mountjoy
SvPegasus
LF38

Sent from my iPad

> On Sep 4, 2016, at 4:57 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The Hurth transmission also has a wet clutch similar to the Paragon.
> Some ATF is wet clutch friendly and acts as a basic lubricant, so using
> it as recommended by the manufacturer is fine.
> 
> ATF is a hydraulic fluid with antifoaming properties, doesn't hurt but
> not applicable in this application.
> 
> I would guess that wet clutch motorcycle oil would also work well,
> though no idea if there might be some issue with seals. The oil has
> detergent properties and such that are not applicable in this application.
> 
> The cling / film, antirusting and water handling properties of ATF is
> different from oil. It may be that a storage recommendation
> is to fill the transmission with ATF, and drain it back to the proper
> level when going into service.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
> Date: Sun, 04 Sep 2016 09:53:18 -0400 
> From: Eric Frank  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> 
> Not directly related to A4?s, but about transmissions.  My Perkins diesel has 
> a Hurth (HBW-50 -2R) transmission, and the PO recommended using type A 
> automatic transmission fluid.  That?s what I have been using, but this 
> discussion has listed motorcycle oil for the transmissions in A4?s.  Am I 
> using the proper fluid? - everything seems to be running fine. 
> Eric Frank 
> Cat's Paw 
> C&C 35 Mk II 
> Mattapoisett, MA 
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Re: Stus-List Starting Problem

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I would suggest checking for power (12v) at the small wire on the solenoid with 
the ignition switch in the start position. This will tell you if the switch and 
wiring is ok. Use a test light if you have one. The test light will put a small 
load on the circuit, where as a volt meter will not. Another quick test is to 
short between the battery hot at solenoid and the small wire terminal and see 
if it turns over. 
Good luck

Doug Mountjoy 
Pegasus
LF 38 hull  #4
Ballard WA. 

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 5, 2016, at 8:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Stopped by the boat today planning to get prep'd for some work that need to 
> get done.
> 
> Figured I should kick the engine over just to make sure everything was 
> running smoothly.  Unfortunately I got nothing (absolutely nothing) from 
> turning the key.
> 
> 
> Batteries seem fine.  Able to run radio - and no visible dip in power to the 
> radio when trying to turn over the engine.
> 
> I had a similar experience a year ago after running the diesel for a few 
> hours - wind came up and we sailed for a bit, but then couldn't re-start.  
> That day I easily found a loose wire (clearly it had shaken loose with the 
> engine running for a long period) off a clip on the starter solenoid (?).
> 
> That was my first check today - but it was attached.  Pulled it off to clean 
> contact but no effect.
> 
> 
> I figure there are 3 possibilities
> 
> 1- ignition key failure - no signal to the starter to kick over
> 
> 2- starter/solenoid failure - I doubt this as I'd expect some type of noise 
> or power dip indicating that something was seized
> 
> 3- electrical connection failure - I can see a large wire leading to what I 
> presume is the solenoid, plus a couple of smaller wires connected as well.  
> Nothing obviously disconnected
> 
> 
> I need to head back down to the boat with a voltage meter - try to figure out 
> what is going on and hopefully find an easy fix!
> 
> 
> Any advice is appreciated.  I presume is the key is working them I'd get a 
> voltage spike at the solenoid when the key is turned. If nothing then it 
> suggests either 1 or 3.  Where should I see that?
> 
> I expect I'll pull the panel and check the contacts behind the ignition key - 
> maybe try hot-wiring it if I can figure out which wires are needed
> 
> Should I use automotive jumper cables to bypass the starter and try to spin 
> the starter/solenoid directly?
> 
> 
> The engine is a Volvo 2002 18HP
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for the advice,
> 
> Mark
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List paragon v-drive transmission

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Jason,
I have the same transmission/ V-drive on Pegasus. The Paragon is very
simply designed to be held in reverse. The V-drive is made by Walter.  If
you notice that on the side of the transmission is a large lever, I was
told by a local expert that it was designed to be held in reverse by
pushing the lever aft with your foot while docking, on our boats you would
pull the lever towards you (because of the V-drive). I assume that you have
a fairly large shifter handle on the binnacle, When down to my slip I will
hold it in reverse with my knee. The way it works is in forward you are
engaging a clutch while in reverse you are applying pressure to a band that
is around a drum. the harder you push the lever in reverse that stronger
the engagement.
There is also a universal joint the the tube between the tranny and V-drive
unit, that should be removed and lubed every so often. I have done mine
once in 9 years of boat ownership.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38 #4
just west of Ballard, WA

On Thu, Feb 18, 2016 at 9:07 AM, Jason Ward via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi
>
> My landfall has the paragon v-drive transmission system.  When I go
> forward it feels like the leaver “clicks” into place, however, when going
> in reverse it feels like it is just friction that is holding it in gear.
> The problem I am experiencing is that when in reverse and the rpm’s are up
> the leaver slips out of gear.  The only way it stays in reverse is to hold
> the leaver down.  I have tried adjusting the cable tension bolt under the
> deck to no avail, cable becomes to hard to move.  I am wondering if this is
> just an issue with my boat or have others experienced similar problems.  If
> you have had this happen what is the fix.  From what I can find no one
> really deals with these old transmission any more.  Any help that can be
> offered is appreciated.
>
> Regards,
> Jason Ward
> Landfall 38
> Winnipeg, MB
>
> This email has been sent from a virus-free computer protected by Avast.
> www.avast.com 
>
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Re: Stus-List Cruising chute tack

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Chuck,
On Pegasus I use a short length of spectra with metal thimbles, and a block
attached to the bow roller. Some times I also use a ATN tacker around the
head sail. The tack line runs aft to the cockpit as are all most all of my
lines are.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38 hull #4
Ballard WA.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA

On Thu, Jan 14, 2016 at 9:42 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok...the thermometer just hit 30 and I'm all in thinking about getting the
> boat chores done...
>
> So a question:  I purchased a new asymmetrical cruising chute last year.
> Of you experts out there with cruisin' chutes...what is your arrangement
> for securing the tack at the bow of the boat?  Years ago, with hank-on
> sails, wire forestay and a downhaul with single snapshackle to forestay, I
> could attach the chute to the forestay easily, and actually tack with the
> chute going under the forestay (old Columbia 26-2).
>
> I have seen the tacking sleeve used on some boats, and certainly have a
> regular and whisker poles, but are there other creative ways to attach and
> rig a cruising chute on a 35-3 or others?  Thanks in advance for keeping my
> spring hallucinations going...
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> Morning Sky
> C&C 35-3
> Hessel, MI
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Autopilot Recommendations

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Fred I will definitely take that transducer off of your hands. Can you
contact me off list. Technology is not my strong suit.

Thanks,



Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA

On Sun, Oct 11, 2015 at 6:41 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill — the older ST4000 wheelpilot does not use a rudder reference
> transducer; but the newer ST4000+ does.  It should have shipped with one.
> They are available as a standalone part, for about $250 plus shipping.  As
> I mentioned before, I have a spare here somewhere; if anyone is interested,
> the first $150 plus $15 to ship takes it.  This is brand new in the box.
>
> As far as installation goes, that’s definitely the hardest part.  As each
> boat may be a bit different, and I’m not familiar with the 36’s steering
> system and accessibility, I can’t give you an exact idea.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Oct 11, 2015, at 8:37 AM, William Walker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>   I guess this goes for st4000 wheel pilots too?  Are there any available
> for these and how tough an install.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing -- Raw Water Intake

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Edd,
This is on the list for Pegasus. I am looking at installing one of these.
Looks like it will work with a minimum of fuss.
http://www.fisheriessupply.com/groco-safety-seacock-engine-flush-kits-ssc-series

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
Ballard, WA

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 8:33 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m thinking of adding an extra hose and a Y-Valve for the raw water
> intake to make winterizing and commissioning the engine easier — as things
> stand now, I need to close the through-hull, unfasten the hose clamps and
> pull on the hose in a tight little area.
>
> Has anyone done this? Any disadvantages? What type of valve did you use?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I did the same as Jim, installed  hardware store GFI outlets in both the
galley and head. Each being on different circuits. That was 8 years ago and
no issues using them on a daily basis.
Doug Mountjoy
sv  Pegasus
LF38
Ballard WA


Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, WA

On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 8:54 PM, David Donnelly via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> So if on a survey it was noted that the 120V receptacle in the head is not
> a GFCI (as this was not required during original construction) and the
> recommendation is to change it to a GFCI outlet as per ABYC standards. Is
> it enough to change just the one receptacle and if so what is the
> difference between a hardware store “weather proof” or a marine equivalent.
> A search of the web has brought me nothing definitive although it is
> possible the marine variety is tinned and able to accommodate stranded wire
> vs solid wire like would be used in a home.
>
>
>
> Bad thing is we don’t even have access to shore power on our lake…..but
> standards are standards where insurance is concerned.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> David Donnelly
>
> C&C 26 Mistress
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel contamination

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I would carry extra filters, and fill with fresh fuel.
Pegasus sat for a couple of years when I bought her. I didn't have any
issues with the fuel until I got into rough water, and stired up the fuel.
Now I change the filters once a year and have no issues.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
Just west of Ballard, WA

On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 9:21 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi this issue is a concern for me as well.  Now, on the boat we're buying,
> we ran the engine for probably 2 - 3 hours throughout the weekend.  Between
> moving it to the lift and back during the survey and then out for a sea
> trial we never shut it off and the engine ran beautifully the whole time.
> My concern is that, they claim the boat never left the dock over last 5
> years, the fuel in the tank registers 3/4 full, and could very well be very
> old.  The surveyor showed little concern and just said to top it off and
> carry extra filters.
>
> With that information, is there anything more I could/should do regarding
> fuel?  If the fuel were contaminated in some way would it have become
> apparent during the time we ran the engine?
>
> Would adding another filter assembly, in line, be a good idea?
>
> Danny
> Closing soon
> MassachusettsOn Sep 6, 2015 11:55 AM, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning
> method. Has anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter
> system with a bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use
> much fuel either.
> >
> > It isn't complicated in theory.
> > Len
> > Crazy Legs
> > 1989 37+
> >
> > Sent from my mobile device.
> > ___
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List fuel contamination continued-jelly in the filter

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Have you thought about using a fuel tank for an outboard. they come in 3
and 6 gallon.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
Just west of Ballard, wa

On Sat, Sep 5, 2015 at 9:33 AM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We paid a mechanic who charged $400 for an engine that ran for 3 hours and
> then..revs went down to 1,000 and we managed to get into the dock. Same
> situation. I took a sample to the gas barge and it was contaminated beyond
> belief. Took out the fuel that was black in some places and then murky in
> others. I am now taking the tank out. Last year I cleaned out the tank but
> that was not enough. The tank is the original and I would like another
> made. Part of the problem is that we do not use enough fuel to keep it
> happy. I am thinking then of cutting down the size of the tank. That would
> mean the fuel we put in would be used much faster. Will also replace all
> the hoses etc. Has anyone downsized their tank in a 29-2 and if so what is
> the size. The irony is that it is cheaper to buy a new tank here in
> Vancouver than to get the fuel "polished".
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List wet core LF 38

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Other than the water in the coring, which it doesn't say how much. She
seems to have been well taken care of. Lots of new stuff worth much more
than $19k. It would be a great project boat. Look at what Wally went
through with Stella Blue and for the same price.

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38 hull #4
Just west of Ballard, WA

On Mon, Aug 31, 2015 at 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1984/C%26C-Landfall-38-2756734/Portsmouth/VA/United-States#.VeSK4YeFN9M
>
>
>
> I have no clue if this is a good deal or $19,000 too much. I am guessing
> the owner got a big surprise at sale time.
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List SOS light flare replacement

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

It looks great for inland waters. However for out in the ocean I feel that
you still need flares for the altitude that they provide. You cant get the
light 500 feet in the air. or shoot it at the bridge of an approaching
freighter. That being said I can still see it usefulness.

Doug Mountjoy
svPegasus
LF38 hull #4
just west of Ballard WA

On Wed, Aug 26, 2015 at 7:33 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I saw the same posting and was kinda excited until I saw that it takes 3
> "C" batteries.  How many of us have had an expensive electronic device
> ruined by a leaking battery?  I'm not eager to have an emergency device, in
> a saltwater environment, which requires alkaline batteries.
>
> I guess I'm just being overly sceptical considering that our smoke
> detectors use batteries.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Aug 26, 2015 8:08 AM, "PME via CnC-List"  wrote:
>
>> Hi,
>>
>> Is anyone familiar with the Sirius Signal SOS Distress light?   The claim
>> is that it complies with USCG requirements replacing flares, and that it
>> does not expire.  I just read about it from an Active Captain post which
>> includes a Defender link for those interested:
>>
>> http://www.defender.com/activecaptain.jsp
>>
>> I would be interested of anyones experience with these.  Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

On Pegasus I have the hot water heater under the port q-berth but soon to
be mover further aft, I will add a bulkhead to keep the heat away from the
battery and I will put a house battery there. either a pair of 6 volts or a
4d. had one next to the heater and cooked it. I also have a pair of 6vots
on the shelf just aft of the companion way steps. The starting batteries
are on the port shelf by the engine ( a pair of group 24's). I built a
temporary shelf under the stbd q-berth for a second house battery (4d).
Plans are in the works to convert the stbd q-berth into a nav station.
battery and holding tank will get moved again. One other thing I am doing
is having a friend build drawers that go full length in the cabinets, like
the ones in the galley do. Should almost double my drawer storage. I have
my windlass powered off of the engine batteries.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38 hull #4
somewhere west of Ballard, WA

On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at 7:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm helping a friend move his LF38 to NC, and along the way we are making
> up a project list. The boat will be used for live aboard cruising.
>
> The current setup has one new start battery as bank 1, and two old
> batteries in parallel as the house bank 2. The old house batteries need to
> be replaced in the next couple of weeks, and we would like to maximize the
> AHR capacity and try to increase the number of batteries in the house bank.
>
> The start battery is in the locker under the front half of the quarter
> berth. The house batteries are on a shelf on the port side of the engine
> compartment (and are a bitch to get to). There is no room for more
> batteries on the shelf.
>
> So where have you guys installed additional batteries to increase the size
> of you house bank?
>
> Rick Brass
> Jim Schwartz
> s/v Sea Ya
> 1983 LF38 Hull # 105
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in Charleston, SC

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

This is newer than a 79, It also has the nav station w/ no starboard
Quarter berth. I am going to guess it is closer to an 82 or 83 vintage. I
agree with the other comments on the stainless holding tank. and that
fridge...UHK!!

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus LF38
just west of Ballard


On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 5:17 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stainless steel is not resistant to the type of acids & salt you get in a
> holding tank--plastic is much better.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 15, 2015, at 8:07 PM, detroit...@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >
> > why not agood idea?
> > jim
> > =20
> > =20
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Robert Boyer 
> > To: cnc-list 
> > Cc: Rick Brass ; James Schwartz <
> detroit...@aol.co=
> > m>
> > Sent: Mon, Jun 15, 2015 7:30 pm
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List I need information on a LF38 for sale in
> Charleston,=
> > SC
> >
> >
> > =20
> > Seems like a
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Atkins Hoyle hatch replacement

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Ocean 60 no flange.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus LF38
Just west of Ballard



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
>> Aronson via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, June 15, 2015 3:05 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Atkins Hoyle hatch replacement
>>
>>
>>
>> For those who have replaced their forward A&H hatch with a Lewmar 60
>> series, did you use the low, medium or ocean profile hatch?  With or
>> without flange on the Ocean?
>>
>>
>>
>> Defender has the medium on closeout.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Working from 'The other Office"

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I would love to work from Pegasus, but my boss wont let me. Something about
not being able to see the airplanes. Hey I watch them fly over.doesn't
that count?

Doug Mountjoy
Pegasus
LF38
just west of Ballard, Wa

On Wed, Jun 3, 2015 at 7:42 AM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is a good week..
>
> My kids are both @ sailing camp at the lake near my boat we're stating on
> Take Five all week. We had to drop-off / pickup the kids everyday and with
> club being 30 miles away from home we avoid the 120 miles per day commute.
> Pretty fun to be here all week.
>
> As for work, phone and wifi is all I need and yeah, when you have a mast
> in the middle of your office table, you must be doing something right :-)
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier,  GA
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Question about steering cables

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Richard,
When I tightened my steering cables, I tightened them to almost remove all
slop in the wheel. but not so tight to put a strain on anything. I now have
about 1/2 to 3/4 inch play in the wheel.

Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38 #4
just west of Ballard, WA

On Tue, May 5, 2015 at 8:58 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Hi all, in getting ready for spring I noticed some slack in my steering
> cables in the area between the quadrant and the sheaves which turn the
> cable up into the helm; the play is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch; is there a norm
> or a standard rule of thumb for how much, if any flex, or looseness is
> considered standard, similar to the tension of an engine belt, (I'm
> thinking of the 1/2 inch flex for the alternator belt, etc)?   I did
> tighten up the cable terminal on the quadrant and that seemed to tighten
> the cable a bit, but I can only reach on of the terminals, not both of
> them...: also, we got in our first sail of the season last Sunday and there
> was no noticeable play or slack in the steering wheel.   many thanks to the
> group for your collective wisdom!
>
>  Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Composite project (not C&C related directly)

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

A friend of mine that does a lot of glass work swears by the Bi-axial cloth
and epoxy resin.
Doug
sv Pegasus
Just west of Ballard Wa.
LF38

On Wed, Mar 11, 2015 at 9:02 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Good day folks.
> Last year I was gifted a tired Bombardier Invitation 3.8. With a little
> TLC I'll get her sailing agains but the boat came without a daggerboard.
> I'm going to make a composite one. Two questions. I've scoured the Internet
> for a design detail of the board but have come up with nothing. Does anyone
> have any links they know of or information that could be helpful?   Second,
> for the composite masters, what would be the best core choice and layup for
> this project? Will fibreglass be fine or should I go with Kevlar?
> Thanks.
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27-5
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Traveler Blocks on 38-3

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

On Pegasus I just installed a new Garhauer traveler. I used the original
bridge but added a 1" square tube to space it above the channel the
original was in. Guido drilled the new track to fit my bridge (holes in
different places, all screws busted off).
Doug
sv Pegasus
LF38 hull #4

On Thu, Mar 5, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Mike Flannery via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone replaced the traveler system or found alternate blocks.  So
> cramped in there?
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ engine size

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Spencer,
Pegasus  can only motor at 6.5kts gps speed with my Yanmar 3qm30. I have a
2 blade fixed prop and am a live aboard (lots of extra weight).  Rarely do
I see 8kts. I don't run the engine faster than 2200, as the 3qm39 vibrates
a lot. If you are getting black smoke you might want to look into getting
your injectors cleaned.
Doug
Pegasus
LF38 Hull #4

On Tue, Jan 13, 2015 at 7:45 PM, Spencer Johnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am feeling really under powered with a Westerbeke 27 in my LF38but
> pretty economical.  Still have trouble punching thru waves, but can motor
> sail at over 8 knots...I can motor over 7 knots but the stern digs in and I
> get a black 'moustache' on my stern from unburnt fuel...or so I've been
> told.  I normally get no smoking of the exhaust at any time. Maybe 2800
> hours on the enginestarts fine all the time!
>
>  Spencer Johnson
> 1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria" #165
> ~~~_/) * 
> Mount Prospect, IL
>
>
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Re: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Paul,

What part of the country will you be living? If it is someplace where you
will have the boat closed up during the winter months (for keeping the heat
in). I highly recommend a room dehumidifier. This keeps the moisture at bay
that is produced while living aboard during the winter months. Here in the
PNW I get about 1 gallon of water every 2 days. and I don't do much
cooking, nor do I shower aboard. Hope this helps.
Doug Mountjoy
Pegasus
LF38
Ballard, WA

On Tue, Jan 6, 2015 at 8:22 AM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all, I am looking at a C&C 36 pretty seriously for a liveable boat.
> I think it will work out for me, but am looking at a few things that may
> need to be done to make the boat comfortable for year round living aboard.
>
> 1.) Icebox refrigeration, what size is the icebox? I am trying to figure
> out a plan for refrigeration. Anyone that has done this, advice woudl be
> helpful.
>
> 2.) How can you search the list? Seems you can get the past posts in bulk
> but I don't see any useful search function.
>
> I am sure I will have lots of questions if I go through with the
> perchance.
>
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Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

I have used Micron 66 and got 4.5 years with out cleaning except for
knocking off the big chunks. Now I am using Blue Sea 45% ablative. still no
cleaning. Have a diver replace my shaft zincs twice a year, he will also
clean the paddle wheels for the knot meters. When the bottom shows signs of
being dirty it is time to go cruising.

Doug Mountjoy
Pegasus LF38
Just west of Ballard, WA

On Tue, Dec 23, 2014 at 10:02 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Bob showed me his hull last week.  The boat was hauled and not pressure
> washed this Fall and had not been scrubbed all season.  The bottom of the
> hull looked about the same as all those that had been pressure washed by
> the yard.  I am most impressed with the anti fouling characteristics of
> Micon 66 compared to Micron CSC, VC Offshore and other high performance AF
> paints used in this area.
>
>
>
> The down side is that Micron 66 is not available in Canada.  It contains
> higher levels of copper than is allowed here.  A pity since this paint
> would likely reduce hull cleaning costs by over $400 per season for a
> typical boat that races.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert
> Abbott via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 12:43 PM
> *To:* Bill Bina - gmail; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> Several years back, I switched antifouling paint from Micron CSC to Micron
> 66.. Micron 66 is very effective in controlling algae growth, at least
> it is in our climatefor all of those that are bottom cleaning every
> month, maybe Micron 66 would minimize that work.Just a thought.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> On 2014/12/23 12:35 PM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I looked at Dri Diver before making my rig for about $15-$20. In fact, it
> was my original inspiration. One big difference is that my system can do
> the keel. I also wondered if the scotch brite pad might be a little too
> aggressive on my ablative bottom paint. Different strokes I guess! :-)
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 12/23/2014 11:21 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:
>
>  There's an outfit called Dri-Diver which makes a device like you
> described. I hope they are still around, because I need a new scrub pad.
>
>
>
> It is about 6 inches wide and 3 feet long. A scotch brite style pad hooks
> to a plastic (maybe 1/8 inch thick) backing strip which has half a dozen
> cylinders of floatation hooked to it (crosswise). All is attached to a
> plastic pipe handle with a bit of a bend in it. There used to be a lesser
> version with just a single floatation pad on the back, but after I wore
> that one out, I got the special model with the cylinders. The only downside
> is that you cannot reach the keel.
>
>
>
> I use it between diver trips.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>  - Original Message -
>
> *From:* Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 23, 2014 9:59 AM
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diving your own boat
>
>
>
> I made a rig that uses an outdoor broom with stiff bristles, and some
> flotation that screws onto the end of a boat hook. It makes bottom cleaning
> at a slip a short, and relatively easy job. I'm now on a mooring, and have
> to work my way around the boat, tying the dinghy to the railing as I go. It
> takes a little longer and a little more work, but it is still not that hard
> to do.
>
> I'm not a racer, so this method is more than adequate. I'm sure a diver
> would do a better job, since he can see what he is doing.
>
> I use the same rig to do my outboard rudder from the cockpit. Screwing the
> broom head directly to the boat hook does not work very well. In addition
> to the pool noodle floation, I also added a curved extension made from
> plumbing so that the broom head is offset from the boathook by about a
> foot. That clearance makes all the difference in reaching the center area
> of the hull without the boathook hitting the hull. I think I have some
> pictures of this thing on my home computer. If I can find them, I'll post
> them somewhere on the web.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
>
>
>  ___
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Re: Stus-List List LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

On my 3QM30, I installed a remote oil filter. It is mounted on a bracket by
the v-drive. This also allowed me to install a remote oil pressure gauge
using standard SAE hardware. I have a small access plate in the cockpit for
adding oil. I also added a coolant overflow bottle in the Lazerette for
adding coolant. I also added a system with an electric fuel pump for
changing fuel filters without having to bleed the injectors. I can now
change the fuel filters in about 10 minutes, oil changes in 20 minutes both
from the companion way access hatch. Another addition was to install a
push/pull cable for compression release. To be used during starting. this
saves wear and tear on the starter and flywheel. The fittings for the cable
are already on the front (back) of the engine. I also use this for pumping
oil through the engine after an oil change or sitting a long time. The
cable comes out by the ignition switch. Now for starting I pull out the
cable T-handle, engage the starter wait 10 seconds (for oil to start
flowing) then push in the T-handle. starting ease has improved and I don't
get the grinding of starter that used to happen sometimes.

Doug
S/V Pegasus
Shilshole Bay Marina Seattle
svpegasu...@gmail.com

On Wed, Dec 3, 2014 at 7:06 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> In my opinion its not all that bad.  There is a lot of access through the
> starboard cockpit locker for changing the solenoid/starter, oil filter, air
> filter, and v-belts.  The panel between the cockpit locker and the engine
> is removable.  Getting to the water pump to change the impeller was
> difficult so I installed much longer inlet and outlet hoses so that I can
> pull the water pump out into the port quarter berth without even
> disconnecting the hoses--this was a big improvement for changing the rubber
> impellers.
>
> Putting oil in the crankcase is a challenge since the headroom between the
> top of the engine and the lower surface of the cockpit deck is very limited
> but adding oil can be done--its usually only done once per year for most of
> us.
>
> I don't have maintenance experience on many boats but my Landfall 38 has
> much better engine access than my Sabre 28 had for sure.
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
> 1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame
>
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Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?

[Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Wet/Dry vac makes a nice 1gal model I use on my boat. It uses the same
filters as the large vacuums.

On Wed, Nov 26, 2014 at 10:14 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for recommendations for  a wet / dry vac for boat and some home.
> 110v is fine, but prefer something other than the huge ~16 gallon versions.
> Suggestions and links are welcome. Of course…price/value is a consideration.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
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