Stus-List 34 Bow Chocks

[John Read via CnC-List]

Need to replace bow chocks.  Any suggestions on source?  Are sunken skene
design 4 7/8 overall length.  Mount into a recess in bow casting.

 

TIA

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Original Waterline Dimensions

[John Read via CnC-List]

John

 

The width varies  over the length of the boat - narrow at mid-section, wider
at bow and widest at stern.  If still available, trace the original OEM
edges.  If not and memory serves there is a process using a fluid filled
clear tubing where you can trace the edges.  The idea is to maintain a
visual constant height as the hull flare changes.  Holler if questions

 

John Read

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, May 29, 2024 8:58 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Original Waterline Dimensions

 

Listers,

 

Talisman is getting painted this week and we will need to redo the
waterlines. Does anyone know the original factory waterline sizes? Looking
at the brochures, it looks like a 5 or so-inch line on the bottom and maybe
2 on top. Also, has anyone done the C&C inlay with gold leaf paint? Source?
Thanks.

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 C&C 36

Mystic, CT 

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Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 Mk 2 available

[John Read via CnC-List]

David.  My alma mater Tabor Academy lm Marion, MA has a very active sailing
program and may be interested in your donation.  Worth a try.  Use my name.
John Read  class 1965

On Mon, May 20, 2024, 6:06 PM David Kelly via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking for a little help on options.  My job is being relocated to Europe
> over the summer.  As a result, I am looking to sell or donate my C&C 35-2,
> hull #207.
>
> I reached out to Mass Maritime and one other place and received a “does
> not fit our program” reply.  Any suggestions are welcome.  I need to get
> serious, as my relocation has gone from a possibility to a reality over the
> last month.
>
> David Kelly
> Baraka, C&C 35-2
> Noroton, CT
>
> On May 20, 2024, at 2:19 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I could buy that boat cheaper than repainting my boat, getting a Yanmar,
> and buying all that teak.
>
> Joe
>
>
>
> *From:* Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, May 20, 2024 1:34 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Neil Gallagher 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I interior
>
>
>
> My boat has the same cabin sole, otherwise no where as much as all that on
> the topsides.  I certainly don't have teak and holly in the head!
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
> On 5/20/2024 12:12 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Was this stock? I cannot recall seeing any other 35 with this much teak:
>
> https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1970-c$c-35-mk-i-9350708/
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Stu
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List C&C 41 / C&C 35 / Viking 33

[John Read via CnC-List]

Was surfing Facebook and note there are a larger number of C&C's listed  for
sale.  Pricing is discouragingly low but oh well.  Here are some samples.
Also saw a recent vintage 34 plus that was gorgeous but can't find it now

 

 
 Marketplace - C&C 41 1987 | Facebook

 

 
 Marketplace - 1974 - Classic C&C 35 Mk II | Facebook

 

 
 Marketplace - 1974 Ontario boats Viking | Facebook

 

Look like great deals.  Just sharing the info no personal knowledge

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stu

Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C&c 35 MkI

[John Read via CnC-List]

Installed a SHURflo strainer many years ago on raw water inlet.  Never a 
problem.  Easy screw off cup, clean screen screw back on.  Just screw off and 
drain cup when winterizing.  No special mounting is just in line in hose.  
Defender $37.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

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Stus-List Re: 36-1 Stuffing Box Access.

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi John. Teflon packing works great.  Check with Brer Rabbit.  Their 33-1
engine is mounted backwards with a v drive so the stuffing box is under the
engine so limited access. Hope this helps John of the 34 aforementioned.

On Thu, Apr 4, 2024, 7:00 PM John McCrea via CnC-List 
wrote:

> 36-1 Owners,
>
>
>
> Hello. I am looking for any insight into how any 36 owners have managed
> the lack of access to the stuffing box. Each time I want to get it, we have
> to pull the muffler, and then the access is still very limited. On the
> other 3 boats I have owned, it was a piece of cake. I'm not sure what they
> were thinking.
>
>
>
> I looked into the PYI system, but my yard wanted to cut the shaft and put
> in a new one. It is less than 10 years old, so that is a no-go. We are
> going to pack with Teflon instead of the old-style flax that was in there
> and hope for better results. But having to adjust it once it is in the
> water is a real challenge. I have seen the access on the later model 34,
> and I am very jealous. Thanks.
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 mk3 shaft line questions

[John Read via CnC-List]

Had my cutless bearing replaced by the yard last year as part of job to
rebuild Martec prop.  Bearing at cost plus 1 hour labor.  Perfect fit they
had the tools and experience.   Worth every cent. Much less vibration.
John Read
Legacy III, 1982 34, Noank CT


On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gotta do the same project.
>
> I think you are over thinking this.  The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
> The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
> between models and years.  Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
> strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
>
> I look forward to the replies.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C&C community will help me out.
>
> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
>
> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
> cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
> length is 4", but what is the OD??
>
> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the
> shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove
> the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've
> heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it
> has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but
> once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very
> good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing
> transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather
> than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
> Q1: is this a real thing?
> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> -Keith M
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: going all pex

[John Read via CnC-List]

I replaced my fresh water piping with PEX last winter.  Original fittings were 
cracking and piping had flavor to it. Fittings were all press on plastic by 
Watts Aqualock available through www.freshwatersystems.com 
 .  No special tools required,  Also replaced 
pump and galley faucet as old ones were 40 plus years old.  Biggest issues were:

1.  defining the correct fittings to fit in cramped spaces
2.  removing galley sink to gain access under – lots of boat yoga and 
inaccessible rusted fittings
3.  cutting piping to correct length as is not very flexible especially 
when colder

 

Overall came out very well and no leaks

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: C&C 37 Rudder post assembly

[John Read via CnC-List]

I have same set up.  Google is your friend.   McMaster Carr??  Local
machine shop??
John Read  1982 34 hull 464

On Fri, Dec 8, 2023, 3:00 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is  a
> chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder
> post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder
> post and sits on a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are
> two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post.  The
> rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat.
>
> In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to
> loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the
> threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop.  The fix is to get a new
> collar, which I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no
> markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos.
>
> For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining
> threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident
> that this will work until I can identify and order the new collar.
>
> So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's
> "good case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the
> "bad case" scenario.   I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but
> will report back on progress.  I would have thought the C&C used the same
> assembly for all of the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but
> maybe not...;
>
> If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, please
> send them on...Thank you to everyone!
>
> Richard
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
> On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 03:37:58 PM EST, Bill Coleman via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come
> off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are
> going to have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder
> issue; my boat (1985 C&C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early
> September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past
> week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how
> this happened; the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved
> the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone
> have any ideas or suggests about what could have occurred? and more
> importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable?
>
>
> We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to
> provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks!
>
> Richard
> 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River...
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C34 spreader cracked

[John Read via CnC-List]

I also know they stripped a C&C 34 but uncertain when or how many parts they 
still have.

 

If they do not respond to a voice mail or email, try again

 

John Read

 

From: John Read 
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2023 4:58 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: 'Nathan Post' 
Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: C&C34 spreader cracked

 

I have found Mass Marine responds best to text.  They have no office staff and 
all crew are in the yard pulling and inventorying parts

 

John Read

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2023 12:21 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Nathan Post mailto:nathan8...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C34 spreader cracked

 

Hello Matthew and all,

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, looks like Rigrite might be able to do this as 
well but from their website it isn't at all clear what you need to order.

 

I reached out to both Holland Marine and Klacko Spars as well as Mass Marine 
Parts (no response from  Mass Marine Parts by phone or e-mail - maybe gone for 
the holidays?).  Holland actually forwarded my request to Klacko 
https://www.klackospars.com/contact.html as well and Klacko got right back to 
me and said I can send the spreaders to them and they will repair or worse case 
replace with a new set for $700 worst case. So I plan on going forward with 
that approach.

 

Nathan

Nathan Post

SV Wisper

C&C 34 1981

Portland ME

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C34 spreader cracked

[John Read via CnC-List]

I have found Mass Marine responds best to text.  They have no office staff and 
all crew are in the yard pulling and inventorying parts

 

John Read

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 20, 2023 12:21 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C34 spreader cracked

 

Hello Matthew and all,

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, looks like Rigrite might be able to do this as 
well but from their website it isn't at all clear what you need to order.

 

I reached out to both Holland Marine and Klacko Spars as well as Mass Marine 
Parts (no response from  Mass Marine Parts by phone or e-mail - maybe gone for 
the holidays?).  Holland actually forwarded my request to Klacko 
https://www.klackospars.com/contact.html as well and Klacko got right back to 
me and said I can send the spreaders to them and they will repair or worse case 
replace with a new set for $700 worst case. So I plan on going forward with 
that approach.

 

Nathan

Nathan Post

SV Wisper

C&C 34 1981

Portland ME

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay

[John Read via CnC-List]

Try a local hydraulic shop.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Allen Miles via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Allen Miles 
Subject: Stus-List Recommendations to rebuild hydraulic cylinders for backstay

 

Good morning All,

 

Septima has moved from Hampton Roads, VA to Bayville, NJ. Upon arrival we 
noticed that the hydraulic cylinders for the backstay were leaking. Does anyone 
have recommendations on a reputable service to rebuild them in the NJ area? 

 

They are Sailtec branded. However, the marina we are in refuses to do business 
with them based on previous bad experiences. Love to support local businesses 
but also want a quality job. Any suggestions appreciated.

 

Thanks and have a great weekend,

 

Allen Miles

30 Mk II, Septima

Bayville, NJ

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Stus-List Re: C&C34 spreader cracked

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi Nathan

 

Bummer on the crack.  Welding should work.  Might want to try salvage yards.  
Have had excellent experience with Mass Marine Parts in Quincy MA
 Mass Marine Parts

 

John Read

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2023 9:00 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Stus-List C&C34 spreader cracked

 

Hello all,

My rigger found a crack in the spreader on my 1981 C&C 34 when they took down 
the rig this fall.  It is a longitudinal crack on the leading edge of the 
aluminum profile where it attaches to the mast several inches long.  Welding is 
a possibility, but I am wondering if sourcing a replacement is possible. Does 
anyone know of a source or by chance have a lead on a used one from a rig that 
was parted out?

Thanks,
Nathan

 

~~~
Nathan Post

SV Wisper

C&C 34 1981

Portland ME

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List C&C 34 SAILS FOR SALE

[John Read via CnC-List]

 

UPDATED LISTING

 

C&C 34 SAILS FOR SALE

Boat dimensions are:  I=44, J=14.0, P=38.3, E=10.90

All genoas utilize #6 luff tape for Harken tri foil.  All are full hoist
except Haarstik which will fit on roller furler.

$600  155% North light medium genoa, kevlar/mylar, turtle bag (needs
zipper) and bag, excellent condition, design for AWS 1 - 17  sale pending

$500  150% Halsey heavy air # 1 genoa, kevlar/mylar, turtle bag (needs
zipper), excellent condition, design for AWS 18 - 23

$500  146% Sobstad light air reacher, dacron, bag, very good condition

$300  141% Haarstik dacron genoa, bag, good condition, UV protector on
leach for roller furl

$150  93% Haarstik dacron genoa with reef point, bag, good condition

$500  Reynolds tri radial 0.75 oz symmetrical spinnaker, multi colored,
turtle bag, crinkly, excellent condition

 

$125  Large spinnaker turtle bag, 48x20x20 brand new - good for boats >
38 ft LOA

$25 ea  3 round spinnaker bags for launching, good.  Also 3 sail bags
various sizes

 

Plus shipping if applicable from Groton, CT.  PM me for measurements or
questions

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[John Read via CnC-List]

Also second Nathan’s post.  Exactly what I did when correcting chainplate 
leaking some 10 years ago.  Zero leaks since

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2023 8:52 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

 

I second using Butyl tape - particularly the Bed-it brand. Not sure exactly 
what your chain plates look like. I resealed my chainplates on my 34 with 
bed-it in 2020 following recoring the deck in that region and haven't had any 
leaking since. I suggest making an angled (e.g. 45 deg) cut in the fiberglass 
around the chain plate on the top of the deck if there isn't one already so 
that the bed it tape will have some thickness between the fiberglass and the 
chain plate. Clean the surfaces with acetone or alcohol. Roll a bead of tape 
and push it in as hard as you can - and add enough so it is sticking up a bit. 
Then press down the little plate that holds that in place (with a single layer 
of bedit tape under it) and screw in place gently.  Come back and tighten the 
screws slowly over the course of a few days so that the tape has time to flow.  
Clean up excess tape around the outside using a sharp knife to cut it around 
the edge of the metal plate.

Nathan

1981 C&C34

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: Sails for sale

[John Read via CnC-List]

Corrected luff tape size is #6

 

Luff   43.3

Leach40.45

Foot  22.05

LP  20.45

 

John Read

 

From: robert fraser via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2023 2:35 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: robert fraser 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Sails for sale

 

Tell me about the drifter you have for sale size  condition and of course 
asking price Tks Bob

 

Sent from  <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> Mail for Windows

 

From:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> John Read via CnC-List
Sent: November 5, 2023 10:10 PM
To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 'Stus-List'
Cc:  <mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> John Read
Subject: Stus-List Sails for sale

 

Have multiple genoas, spinnaker, drifter, turtle and round bags for sale from 
my 34.  PM me for listing and requested pricing

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Sails for sale

[John Read via CnC-List]

Symmetrical, multi color, still crinkly, excellent condition  $500

 

John Read

 

From: Karl Erickson 
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2023 9:27 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: John Read 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sails for sale

 

Hey John, is the spinnaker an asymmetrical?

 

Karl Erickson





On Nov 5, 2023, at 8:10 PM, John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



Have multiple genoas, spinnaker, drifter, turtle and round bags for sale from 
my 34.  PM me for listing and requested pricing

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Sails for sale

[John Read via CnC-List]

Have multiple genoas, spinnaker, drifter, turtle and round bags for sale
from my 34.  PM me for listing and requested pricing

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: winter storage

[John Read via CnC-List]

Tipping is one of the main reasons I store mast down.  Mast presents a lot of 
windage in cold winter storms.  Puts a lot of pressure on small area of poppet 
that actually contacts the hull.  To experience how much just stick your arm 
out the window of a car going 60!!  Use steel cradle purpose built for the 
boat.  Yard adds one extra stand port and starboard.  No problems in 25 years.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 18, 2023 5:52 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Robert Abbott 

Subject: Stus-List winter storage

 

The key to keeping mast up during winter is the cradlethe boats with 
inadequate or damaged cradles are at risk.  I have seen several boats at my 
club where the boats have toppled and it was the cradle that failed in every 
instance.

And for loosening the rigging in winterno need if the rig is properly tuned 
at storagebesides, as someone here mentioned, the aluminum mast shrinks 
first in extreme cold.  

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- #277
halifax, N.S. 

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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[John Read via CnC-List]

I race and cruise our 34 - love the boat and have owned for 24 years.  Came
with Barient 28 as primary mounted aft and 22 as secondary mounted forward.
Under powered for the 155 genoa and symmetrical spin.  Got some used Barient
32 about 20 years ago.  Mounted aft for genoa.  Moved 28 to secondary for
spin and 22 to cabin top for main sheet.  Perfect!!  If there is a breeze a
slow tack is essential to let the crew trim the genoa on the new tack.
Release as sail starts to luff.  Skirting is always an issue.  Often a crew
will be at the new leeward turning block to help gather line and then lift
clew up and back for the final feet which usually solves the skirting
problem.  Also have a crew stationed at mast to help genoa get around the
baby stay and handle the skirt.  It takes practice but is definitely fast 

 

All winches are serviced annually and work just fine.  All have aluminum
drum and the 32 were losing their grip on the line.  Took the drums to a
machine shop to get them lightly knurled.  Now they grip like new but also
can slip when you want to.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2023 10:46 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch Size for C&C34

 

Hello all,

I have attempted to search the archives for information and opinions on new
primary winches for C&C34, but was not able to locate a discussion.  If
there has been, my apologies.  It has become apparent that the old, Lewmar,
self-tailing, 2-spd winches that came on my boat are not adequate -- in a
moderate wind with a 155 genoa it takes two crew cranking with all their
strength to bring the sheet in far enough.  I and the crew are not getting
younger, either -- average age about 65 to 70.  I don't know the details of
gear ratios and power ratio for these old Lewmars, but am investigating so I
have that as a reference.  If any of you C&C34, or similar sized boat,
owners have recommendations for replacement, 2-spd, self-tailing winches, I
would be grateful.  I frequently sail solo and hope to be able to continue
for another 10 to 15 years (if I live to be 80!), so I need to factor that
in the decision.  Also, any experiences or recommendations for the actual
removal and installation would be great too!  Thanks.

 

Jeff Laman

1981 C&C34 Harmony

Ludington, MI

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Stus-List Jabsco Fresh Water Pump and fittings

[John Read via CnC-List]

  JABSCO MARINE FRESH WATER PUMP |
eBay

 

If anyone may be interested

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stus-List Raymarine gaskets

[John Read via CnC-List]

I50 and I60 depth, speed and wind instruments.  After heavy rain the gaskets
leak.  They are essentially foam and after heavy rain they absorb water and
leak.  Anyone have similar experiences and possible solutions?  One thought
is to substitute with butyl but wanted the group's thoughts first.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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Stus-List Re: 34 deck tangs

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi Mack

Did that job on all 4 tangs several years ago.  Very simple - remove
fasteners, clean area and tangs of old butyl (I used turpentine), inspect
balsa to ensure no rot (repair as needed), rebed using new butyl.  No leaks.

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

-Original Message-
From: Mack McKinney via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2023 11:52 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Mack McKinney 
Subject: Stus-List 34 deck tangs

Hi all!

Looking to rebed the deck tanks on my 1980 34c. My question: are these held
in any sort of tension/compression, assuming their is not significant
tension on the mainsheet? If so, is it simply a matter of removing the
fasteners and rebedding with Butyl?

Thanks!

Mack

C&C 34 "Altair"
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Stus-List Re: Water in mast step

[John Read via CnC-List]

On my 34 while the mast was out I drilled 2 small holes in the aft “wall” and 
forced in 2 small plastic tubes so the water dripped into the bilge.  Also 
drilled a small hole in the bottom aft of the mast so the water could easily 
get into the box.  I clean each tube with grass trimmer line as part of annual 
maintenance.  Works well.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, July 02, 2023 4:54 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Water in mast step

 

On the 1989 34R, the maststep is a deep welded aluminum box with wooden spacer 
blocks in front and behind.  The box originally had one 1/2" drain hole but the 
wooden blocks always looked wet.  I added two 3/8" drain holes and also 
scallopped the bottoms of the wooden blocks so they left a path for water to 
find those holes.  

  

Chuck S 

  

  

On 07/02/2023 2:57 PM EDT cenelson--- via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

  

My 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb had a hole as well--I found it as I was cleaning out the 
mast step to drill a hole! 

  

Charlie Nelson 

Water Phantom 

  

On Sunday, July 2, 2023, 02:27:26 PM EDT, Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

My 1978 C&C 34 had a small hole drilled in it, presumably for that purpose.  
Never had a problem.

 

From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Sunday, July 2, 2023 1:30 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dean McNeill mailto:d...@deanmc.ca> >
Subject: Stus-List Water in mast step

 

I have a 1980 C&C 34. Keel stepped mast step gets water (from mast) and I’m 
wondering if it’s okay / advisable to drill a small hole in the metal step so 
the the water will drain into the bilge?

 

Dean

BarraWind

C&C34, Halifax NS 

_




>From Dean’s mobile 


902 489 8556

 

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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
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Thanks for your help. 
Stu 

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Stus-List Re: Bermuda 1-2

[John Read via CnC-List]

Best of luck and sail fast and safe

John Read

-Original Message-
From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2023 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John McCrea 
Subject: Stus-List Bermuda 1-2

Listers,

If interested I am racing in the Bermuda 1-2 return leg. We start this morning. 
I am on a Morris Justine 36. Fleet winner on corrected time on leg one. This my 
7th return leg since 1989. Lots of C&C’s over years but none this time. Lols 
like a fast reach home not far off the western side of the rhumbline. Tracker 
is available on the website. 

John McCrea
Talisman 
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT
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Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

[John Read via CnC-List]

Had exactly the same issue on my 1982 34 on three separate occasions.  First 
time was mud wasps had built a nest in the discharge pipe near the outlet.  The 
screen in the fitting there had corroded away leaving an opening for the wasps. 
 The solution was to fit a hose sprayer into the hose at the pump, turn it on 
and out came nest.  The sprayer was a twist type, no handle which fit snugly 
into the hose.  I manually held it in the hose while twisting the sprayer on. 
Second was a kink in the hose as it rounded a sharp bend on the back side of 
icebox.  In my case the hose runs from the bilge under the floor boards takes a 
hard left and up to the discharge at the toe rail.  Solution was a new hose – 
nothing special just used automotive hose.  Third was a blockage similar to the 
first.  Same solution  

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2023 3:01 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Todd Williams ; Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

 

Hello Todd, 

 

While my manual pump has not being working it’s the electric one I’m referring 
to here.

 

Brian C. Morrison





On Jun 7, 2023, at 2:59 PM, Brian Morrison mailto:brianm...@hotmail.com> > wrote:

 Hey Trevor, 

 

Tried that. No luck. There is a pretty good strainer on the end of the hose 
that catches most debris. 

Brian C. Morrison





On Jun 7, 2023, at 2:21 PM, Todd Williams via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Brian,

 

Are you referring to the hose for the manual bilge pump “Gusher” that is in the 
cockpit?

 

On my 1980 C&C34 the electric bilge pump outlet hose (3/4”) runs through the 
cabinetry in the head to the outlet just below the toe rail. The manual bilge 
pump outlet hose (1.5”) runs under the engine and loops up to the Gusher in the 
cockpit on the starboard side.

 

I replaced my manual bilge pump hose this spring. The previous owner had used 
sanitary waste line, which was really stiff and had cracked. I just used 
corrugated sump pump drainage hose from a hardware store.

 

I am happy to send photos if that helps.

 

TODD

Indigo Out We Go

 

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 1:59 PM Trevor Parry via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Brian,

 

Before doing that have you tried cleaning the outlet of any potential debris or 
blockage? Mine did the same thing before I launched this year and I managed to 
clear it out with a wire after a few jabs then it worked fine.

 

Regards

 

Trevor

 

 

 

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023, 5:00 p.m. Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello Mates,

Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a bilge 
pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the suction on the 
pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and attaching a temporary. 
I put it in a bucket of water and the pump worked fine. I followed the hose in 
the bilge as far back as I could see but cannot see where it goes under the 
floor through the companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that 
connect and the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has 
been compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the best 
hose to use?

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Question and Report

[John Read via CnC-List]

I replaced my fuel tank a few years ago as a precautionary measure to avoid pin 
hole leaks in mid-summer.  After much discussion was advised to have a new 
aluminum tank fabricated of aircraft grade material to match the old.  Main 
reasons to not use a plastic tank are they are supposedly designed for an open 
air situation, not permanently installed in the interior and are susceptible to 
rupture in a fire spilling fuel on the fire.  Yes cost more but peace of mind 
is priceless.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2023 11:31 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: wolf...@erie.net
Subject: Stus-List Question and Report

 

Listers:

 

Hope all is well.

 

First, I have a question.  A friend of mine who owns a C&C 41 
(probably ‘80s vintage) discovered that his aluminum diesel tank is leaking.  
He plans to pull it tomorrow to confirm.  I talked briefly with Bill Coleman on 
this list, and he suggested replacing the aluminum tank with a plastic tank.  
Does anyone know a source for a plastic replacement diesel tank that will fit 
this boat?  (I assume it’s about 20 gallons.)  Please advise.  Thanks.

 

Second, I thought I’d report on a recent discovery you may find 
interesting.  As most of you know, my boat is a C&C 42 Custom, “Custom” meaning 
that it was not a production run boat and was built in the Bruckmann shop.  Six 
of these  “stick boats” were built in the mid ‘70s.  Every year about this time 
of year, I get annoyed by a stubborn crack that appears near the top of the 
forward edge of the keel, near the top where it meets the hull.  As most of you 
understand, this is the front of the so-called C&C smile.  On my boat, the C&C 
smile crack runs along the bottom of the hull where the keel is mated, more or 
less parallel to the bottom of the hull (the “main smile”).  However, I have a 
second C&C smile that starts at the forward edge of the keel about four of five 
inches below the forward edge of the main smile, then tapers up toward the 
bottom of the hull, eventually meeting the main smile about 2/3 of the way back 
to the aft edge of the keel.  I never understood why I get this “second smile.”

 

A few weeks ago some water was seeping out of the stubborn crack at the front 
edge of the main smile, and I asked my guru to find out what the heck is going 
on.  After some grinding and drilling, he informed me that my keel was probably 
not made to fit my boat.  Instead, the keel from another boat was adapted to 
fit my boat by creating a lead “wedge” piece (sort of like a big shim) that is 
widest at the forward edge of the keel and tapers going aft.  This wedge fits 
between the top of the original keel and the hull, giving me two mating seams 
and thus two C&C smiles.  Apparently, my boat is very happy.

 

Matt

 

Matt Wolford

C&C 42 Custom

Erie, PA   

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Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

[John Read via CnC-List]

I doubt there would be room.  The grease also prevents water over filling
the tube

On Fri, Apr 21, 2023, 8:24 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks.  I bought a zerk fitting to add to the grease cup.  The idea of a
> hose extension is a good one.  I was thinking some shaft packing material
> might help?
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> --
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 20, 2023 9:23:57 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble
>
> Thanks for reminding me.  I have to take the grease gun to the boat and
> grease the rudder bearings, next time.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 04/20/2023 10:46 PM John Read via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I dropped my rudder for repairs some 10 years ago and to my recollection,
> the 34 system does not have a lower bushing or bearing.  Rather is just a
> close tolerance fiberglass tube.  The outside of the tube is braced by
> fiberglass struts to the interior of the hull.  Top of the tube ends about
> a foot or so from underside of cockpit floor to provide space for steering
> quadrant and be well above water line.  Shaft continues up through cockpit
> floor square cast bronze fitting held in place by 4 bolts.   Fitting hole
> for rudder shaft is also close tolerance so threads for donut ride on hole
> edges.  This is the real issue as over time the threads enlarge the fitting
> hole allowing the rudder post to wobble.  Hence the solution to remove the
> fitting and insert a new bushing.
>
>
> On a related note, the tube should have a threaded hole for a grease cup.
> Ensure that is working so you can insert grease as part of normal
> maintenance.  I replace the cup with a hydraulic hose with fittings so I
> could insert grease from the locker and not have to crawl back there
>
>
> Best of luck
>
>
> John Read
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
>
> *From:* Korbey Hunt via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 20, 2023 1:45 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike ; Korbey Hunt <
> kampf2...@hotmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble
>
>
> Thank you.  It would be difficult to access anything in the space below
> the cockpit. Where can I purchase a replacement bearing?  Are there two
> that need replacement?
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
> --
>
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 20, 2023 10:41:35 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble
>
>
> On Persistence website www.hoytsailing.com at the bottom of the page is a
> link to the rudder bearing replacement project that we undertook two years
> ago.  Different boat but much of it will be similar.
>
>
> At least you will not have to deal with a steering  quadrant and a bunch
> of cables so access should be better.  We found that the lower bearing (was
> in fact a bushing) had screws holding it in place that we did not find
> until we cut out the old bearing.  Look closely for these screws while you
> are enjoying all the comforts of crawling around in your cockpit locker!
>
>
> Mike Hoyt
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
> *From:* John Read via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* April 20, 2023 2:35 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* John Read 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble
>
>
> Check bearing where rudder post comes through cockpit floor just under
> tiller fitting. It wears over time allowing wobble. Had issue with my 82
> 34.  Fix was done on the hard.  Support rudder. Remove bearing. Machine
> shop inserted bronze bearing. Reinstall.  John Read
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 1:23 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have a 1980 34 C&C that has developed a profound tiller wobble while
> under power .  Has anyone else had this experience?  What is the remedy.  I
> plan to haul out in June to inspect.
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

[John Read via CnC-List]

I dropped my rudder for repairs some 10 years ago and to my recollection,
the 34 system does not have a lower bushing or bearing.  Rather is just a
close tolerance fiberglass tube.  The outside of the tube is braced by
fiberglass struts to the interior of the hull.  Top of the tube ends about a
foot or so from underside of cockpit floor to provide space for steering
quadrant and be well above water line.  Shaft continues up through cockpit
floor square cast bronze fitting held in place by 4 bolts.   Fitting hole
for rudder shaft is also close tolerance so threads for donut ride on hole
edges.  This is the real issue as over time the threads enlarge the fitting
hole allowing the rudder post to wobble.  Hence the solution to remove the
fitting and insert a new bushing.

 

On a related note, the tube should have a threaded hole for a grease cup.
Ensure that is working so you can insert grease as part of normal
maintenance.  I replace the cup with a hydraulic hose with fittings so I
could insert grease from the locker and not have to crawl back there

 

Best of luck

 

John Read

1982 C&C 34

 

From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 1:45 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike ; Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

 

Thank you.  It would be difficult to access anything in the space below the
cockpit. Where can I purchase a replacement bearing?  Are there two that
need replacement? 

 

Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> 

  _  

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2023 10:41:35 AM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble 

 

On Persistence website www.hoytsailing.com <http://www.hoytsailing.com/>  at
the bottom of the page is a link to the rudder bearing replacement project
that we undertook two years ago.  Different boat but much of it will be
similar.

 

At least you will not have to deal with a steering  quadrant and a bunch of
cables so access should be better.  We found that the lower bearing (was in
fact a bushing) had screws holding it in place that we did not find until we
cut out the old bearing.  Look closely for these screws while you are
enjoying all the comforts of crawling around in your cockpit locker!

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com <http://www.hoytsailing.com> 

 

From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: April 20, 2023 2:35 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

 

Check bearing where rudder post comes through cockpit floor just under
tiller fitting. It wears over time allowing wobble. Had issue with my 82 34.
Fix was done on the hard.  Support rudder. Remove bearing. Machine shop
inserted bronze bearing. Reinstall.  John Read 

 

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 1:23 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have a 1980 34 C&C that has developed a profound tiller wobble while under
power .  Has anyone else had this experience?  What is the remedy.  I plan
to haul out in June to inspect.

 

Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Tiller Wobble

[John Read via CnC-List]

Check bearing where rudder post comes through cockpit floor just under
tiller fitting. It wears over time allowing wobble. Had issue with my 82
34.  Fix was done on the hard.  Support rudder. Remove bearing. Machine
shop inserted bronze bearing. Reinstall.  John Read

On Thu, Apr 20, 2023, 1:23 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a 1980 34 C&C that has developed a profound tiller wobble while
> under power .  Has anyone else had this experience?  What is the remedy.
> I plan to haul out in June to inspect.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Forward Hatch Handles

[John Read via CnC-List]

Contact Atkins & Hoyle and Hatchmasters in Stratford  CT

On Sat, Mar 11, 2023, 10:51 PM Brian Morrison via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement handles for the forward
> v-berth hatch on a 1979 C&C34? I am replacing the hatch but cannot remove
> the pin/screw that holds the exterior knob in place on one of them. I think
> I may have to cut it off and get a new one.
>
> Thanks
> Brian C. Morrison
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Chandleries

[John Read via CnC-List]

I seem to recall Jamestown closed their store and are now 100% on line
only??? If so not sure impact on service,  price etc.
John Read
Legacy III
Noank CT
1982 C&C 34

On Fri, Mar 10, 2023, 11:34 AM Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jamestown Distributors has always given me great service. I haven't
> compared their prices for a while but they were in line with other places
> or lower. They have their own brand called Total Boat, which is very good,
> unlike most West Marine brands.
> Andy
>
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
> phone  +401 965 5260
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 11:27 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Most people I talk to are disappointed at the direction Defender has been
>> going after being purchased by a Hedge Fund, or whomever, and West has been
>> pretty pricey since Randy Repass left years ago, and now that doesn't look
>> too good -
>>
>> <> 
>> Rising Tide Holdings to SD, which means selective default. “We view the
>> transaction as tantamount to a default because creditors will receive less
>> value than originally promised, and we view the exchange as distressed,”
>> S&P wrote.>>
>>
>> I guess Rising Tides, dba West Marine, is ebbing.
>>
>> Does anyone  have any favorites for Parts, like BOE Marine, Go2Marine,
>> etc?  I can't find my bottom paint for less than $395 A Gallon. Even
>> Fishermen's supply is not that great anymore.
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>> Entrada Erie, PA
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Shower

[John Read via CnC-List]

Shape and space of shower floor sump and teak grating limit design
flexibility


On Thu, Feb 16, 2023, 10:32 AM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Why not just get a screen fitting and put a one-way valve in line near the
> pickup
>
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> --
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 16, 2023 10:20:18 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Korbey Hunt ; Dave S 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower
>
> The 33-2 has an arrangement like its predecessor- the 34.  I would
> definitely not want a discharge into the keel sump/bilge.  the water
> travels via the spider and finds it’s way elsewhere.  Worth devising
> another arrangement.
> I’m in the process of purchasing an alubat ovni  (Aluminum)  and it
> sections an area of the bilge as a contained shower sump, and has a pump
> and strainer specifically for that.   Like a tub  below the shower grate.
> Similar in concept to the c&c which molds the very shallow sump into the
> liner, but much larger and deeper, making the pump-out plumbing easier to
> do with standard parts.
> I would think that the bilge below the shower could be contained similarly
> in most boats.
>
> Dave 33-2 windstar (for now)
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 16, 2023, at 3:52 AM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Yes.  Dangerous.  I use simple green then tteat wood with Watco wood
> oil.  My boat is in Ketchikan, AK.  Very damp.  I keep a dehumidifier
> running all year.  It works well to keep away mold.
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
> --
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 8:54:09 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower
>
> True, but it's all in concentration. Too much and yes, you will eat
> through your keelbolts. Just a tiny bit, and you will kill the nasty stuff
> that grows in there. I once put a chlorine pellet in one of my strainers,
> and it it ate Holes through the stainless steel strainer . Having said all
> that, when I first got my 39, I decided to get all of the mildew out of it
> and took everything out of the boat, nice mixture of Tide, chlorine and
> ammonia, sprayed it all around, power washed it, rinsed it and sucked it
> out. If a little bit of cleaner is good, a lot is better right,? I'm lucky
> to be alive. Little did I know then that ammonia and chlorine creates
> mustard gas! Live and learn!
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> On Wed, Feb 15, 2023, 21:58 Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My friend Bill Coleman on this list cautioned me against using Clorox in
> the bilge for fear of damaging the stainless keel bolts.
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 7:29 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower
>
>
>
> Add some anti bacterial detergent to the bilge and maybe a cup of
> chlorox/javex once in a while
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 15, 2023 at 7:01 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ive found it useful in removing oils.
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
> --
>
> *From:* Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:51:33 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* wolf...@erie.net 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower
>
>
>
> Probably the reason for a separate pump and discharge that by-passes the
> bilge.
>
>
>
> *From:* David Risch via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:46 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* David Risch 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Shower
>
>
>
> I have heard discharging shower grey water into bilge created a
> soapy/scummy mess in the bilge?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:11 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Shower
>
>
>
> My 32 has the same set up...shower hose from the sink facet...sump with a
> teak gratesump pump under the sink for a separate discharge just below
> the toe rail opposite the head starboard side.
>
> All woks fine but never use it.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2023-02-15 1:59 p.m., Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
>
> That was the set-up on the 42 Custom.  A shower hose was integral to the
> sink faucet.  On my boat, the shower head was attached to a wall rack for
> adjusting the height.  The floor is a teak grate with a very thin plastic
> catch pan underneath.  The pan drained to 

Stus-List Shower drain

[John Read via CnC-List]

Seeking sources to replace the shower drain.  It apparently uses parts from
the Jabsco little pal 1 ¼ hand pump – the angled intake base 33839-0100 plus
foot strainer with integral disc valve  33632-0100.  After much internet
research and phone calls these parts are no longer available and have been
unable to locate them.  Any ideas on locating them -or- a suitable
replacement?  The shower pan can tolerate only this design or very similar

TIA

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Replacing cabin windows

[John Read via CnC-List]

I did the windows myself on my 34 over 10 years ago.  Biggest issue was the 
plexus the factory used to attach the original windows would not release 
causing damage to the gel coat underneath which required repair.  Major PITA.  
But all is well that ends well.  Windows still going strong no leaks.  Used the 
SIKA 295 system.  Key to stay within shelf life and follow directions exactly.  
Sensitive to temperature and humidity.  I used small pieces of 1/8 inch tubing 
to ensure window was proud to the gel coat and screws at each corner to hold 
plexi in place while the SIKA cured.  This ensured adequate thickness of the 
SIKA so it could flex as the boat moved.  Just removed screws and filled holes 
with SIKA after it cured.  Be sure to mask and tape everything anywhere near 
the windows as is impossible to remove if some gets to an unwanted surface.

 

Best of luck

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker

[John Read via CnC-List]

 

My 34 came spinnaker equipped.  

 

No matter what, the baby stay MUST be released and stowed back to the mast to 
allow for gybing and full aft pole trim.  If your baby stay is permanently 
attached to a pad eye, then you will need to change end fitting for a releasing 
type.  I have track with shackle so can adjust mast bend and allow for quick 
release or attachment.  I can gybe either dip pole or end to end.  I prefer end 
for end as is simpler.  Accordingly I rigged pole with bridles for both pole 
lift and downhaul.  Had to install block into deck with backing plate for down 
haul bridle 

 

Downhaul must be separate line from the guy.  They serve different functions.  
Ours goes through series of “eyes” on deck back to a jam cleat in cockpit next 
to winch for pole lift.  Main purposes of downhaul are to steady pole and 
prevent “skying” of spinnaker (very exciting btw).  This needs to be adjusted 
whenever any change in guy.

 

Pole lift enters mast through fitting in mast about 2/3 way up.  Is rounded 
exit with sheave.  Goes back to winch on cabin top 

 

Will need winches – We have 2 secondary in cockpit Barient 22, 1 for pole lift 
on cabin top Barient 10 and one for halyard Barient 10

 

Will need track on mast, sliding fitting for track and fitting on pole end.  
Have to be able to adjust pole height on mast for gybing and trim.

 

Best of luck

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: andrew--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2023 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: and...@apwengineering.com  
Subject: Stus-List C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker

 

Good day,

I finally found a pole for my recently acquired symmetrical spinnakers, and 
time to get the boat setup for spinnaker, and was hoping for some input from 
the group.

The boat has never been setup for spinnaker.

1.  Baby stay - it is currently fixed and not adjustable and I believe the 
purpose is to introduce a bit of mid mast bend to flatten the sail, and also to 
prevent excessive mast flex when pounding up wind. I would think that this 
needs to be disengaged to make gybing possible. Any suggestions other than 
mounting a track on the cabin top? 
2.  Gybing - if I could temporary disengage baby stay I could dip gybe. End 
to end gybing may be possible if baby stays engaged. Does anybody have any 
experience with gybing asymmetrical on 33-2?
3.  Downhaul - I could mount hardware on deck for downhaul (I would assume 
deck would be strong enough with just a backing plate? Or another option would 
be to run sheet and guy, and use the guy, with a forward lead, as a downhaul. 
Not sure if the angle would be sufficient, probably OK though. 
4.  Topping lift - there is an entrance maybe 2/3 up the mast. I would 
assume this has a sheave (I will go up the mast within the month, but wondering 
if anybody knows if there would be a sheave. I would think there would be but 
wanted to check.
5.  Mast track - seems like lot’s of work was just thinking of a single 
attachment point head high(ish).

Anyhow as you’ve gathered the boat was never setup for spinnaker. We will do 
some local club racing and also cruise, and looking for some input, or some 
good online resources to help me make the decisions on what needs to be done. 
Also we only have a pair of primaries and an addition pair is not in the short 
term plan.

Thanks!

Andy

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker

[John Read via CnC-List]

My 34 came spinnaker equipped.  

 

No matter what, the baby stay MUST be released and stowed back to the mast to 
allow for gybing and full aft pole trim.  If your baby stay is permanently 
attached to a pad eye, then you will need to change end fitting for a releasing 
type.  I have track with shackle so can adjust mast bend and allow for quick 
release or attachment.  I can gybe either dip pole or end to end.  I prefer end 
for end as is simpler.  Accordingly I rigged pole with bridles for both pole 
lift and downhaul.  Had to install block into deck with backing plate for down 
haul bridle 

 

Downhaul must be separate line from the guy.  They serve different functions.  
Ours goes through series of “eyes” on deck back to a jam cleat in cockpit next 
to winch for pole lift.  Main purposes of downhaul are to steady pole and 
prevent “skying” of spinnaker (very exciting btw).  This needs to be adjusted 
whenever any change in guy.

 

Pole lift enters mast through fitting in mast about 2/3 way up.  Is rounded 
exit with sheave.  Goes back to winch on cabin top 

 

Will need winches – We have 2 secondary in cockpit Barient 22, 1 for pole lift 
on cabin top Barient 10 and one for halyard Barient 10

 

Will need track on mast, sliding fitting for track and fitting on pole end.  
Have to be able to adjust pole height on mast for gybing and trim.

 

Best of luck

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: andrew--- via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2023 2:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: and...@apwengineering.com
Subject: Stus-List C&C33-2 Symmetrical Spinnaker

 

Good day,

I finally found a pole for my recently acquired symmetrical spinnakers, and 
time to get the boat setup for spinnaker, and was hoping for some input from 
the group.

The boat has never been setup for spinnaker.

1.  Baby stay - it is currently fixed and not adjustable and I believe the 
purpose is to introduce a bit of mid mast bend to flatten the sail, and also to 
prevent excessive mast flex when pounding up wind. I would think that this 
needs to be disengaged to make gybing possible. Any suggestions other than 
mounting a track on the cabin top? 
2.  Gybing - if I could temporary disengage baby stay I could dip gybe. End 
to end gybing may be possible if baby stays engaged. Does anybody have any 
experience with gybing asymmetrical on 33-2?
3.  Downhaul - I could mount hardware on deck for downhaul (I would assume 
deck would be strong enough with just a backing plate? Or another option would 
be to run sheet and guy, and use the guy, with a forward lead, as a downhaul. 
Not sure if the angle would be sufficient, probably OK though. 
4.  Topping lift - there is an entrance maybe 2/3 up the mast. I would 
assume this has a sheave (I will go up the mast within the month, but wondering 
if anybody knows if there would be a sheave. I would think there would be but 
wanted to check.
5.  Mast track - seems like lot’s of work was just thinking of a single 
attachment point head high(ish).

Anyhow as you’ve gathered the boat was never setup for spinnaker. We will do 
some local club racing and also cruise, and looking for some input, or some 
good online resources to help me make the decisions on what needs to be done. 
Also we only have a pair of primaries and an addition pair is not in the short 
term plan.

Thanks!

Andy

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

[John Read via CnC-List]

2 thumbs up on Mass Maritime

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2023 4:00 PM
To: 'Stus-List' ; 'Wyatt' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Broken C&C 36' Stern Chocks (aka Fairleads)

 

This guy had a C&C 34 that he took in for parts.. Mass Marine Parts 
 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Wind instrument conundrum

[John Read via CnC-List]

Sounds to me like a good cleaning should fix the issue. These are very simple 
units and easy to disassemble and clean.  Agree do not use petroleum based 
products.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2022 1:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Wind instrument conundrum

 

I have a Garmin 10 series instrument set on Water Phantom with 4 GMI 10 
displays, GWS 10 wind transducer and a Garmin knot-meter/depth sounder all on a 
NMEA 2000 backbone which I installed about 10 years ago (?). 

 

This is connected to my Garmin 547(1?) chart plotter and this has worked fine. 

 

Now the wind transducer anemometer is 'sticking' in light air and I may need to 
replace the mast transducer unit entirely or at least the anemometer and wind 
vane.  I can replace the cups and the vane for less than a boat buck and will 
probably try this before I consider going with Garmin's gwind replacement--the 
GWS 10 is no longer produced although I may be able to find one. 

 

My issue is that per Garmin phone support, if I go with the Gwind I MAY have to 
also go with the GND 10 black box, depending on the exact model of my GWS 10 
transducer. Apparently this is used to make the Gwind talk to Nexus and may be 
needed to interface to my existing network. Of course I likely cannot get the 
exact model and serial number of my current transducer without going up the 
mast!

 

My question for any NMEA experts on the list is:  

 

Can I just plug the Gwind cable into my 2000 backbone and forget about the GND 
Black box? Since I don't use nor plan to use any race software for my club 
racing, I don't see the point plus adding another box to convert something 
seems antithetical to the principles of NMEA 2000 which was to let compatible 
instruments talk to each other without such conversions IIRC.

 

OTOH, if the GND box is necessary to get Gwind data to display on my current 
system, I may have to bite the bullet and do it or find another transducer that 
doesn't require the box which could bring a host of other problems mixing 
instrument manufacturers! 

 

Thanks in advance for any wisdom the list may send my way,

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Encapsulating keel

[John Read via CnC-List]

Good Lord – why even think about such a project.  Boat is designed for external 
keel and to change to internal is a massive undertaking which will add a lot of 
weight.  I am not a naval architect but would have to believe this will also 
change handling as keel profile will be thicker.  Also will also impact resale 
value.  Won’t do much to alleviate strain on keel bolts as boat is designed for 
that.  

If your concern is access to the keel bolts, there have to be easier ways to do 
that including removal of engine which is not that hard for experienced yard.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Doug via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, December 19, 2022 12:42 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Doug 
Subject: Stus-List Encapsulating keel

 

I have a question for everyone here. Here in mexico where labor is cheap and 
craftsmanship is good. I'm wondering about fully encapsulating my keel. The 
thought behind this would be to eliminate the worry of my keel bolts. I can see 
(access) a total of 2. There is one under the mast and who knows how many below 
the engine down about 3 feet. 

Just a thought as I don't show any signs of a loose keel yet. 

 

 

 

Doug Mountjoy 

sv Rebecca Leah 

C & C Landfall 39

Port Orchard Yacht Club 

+1 253-208-1412 

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Hatch in head

[John Read via CnC-List]

HI Carl.  The forward hatch has screws.  My query is about the ventilation 
hatch in the head – no screws

 

Nice to see another 34 in Groton.  Your boat name and where located?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Carl Freeman via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2022 10:10 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Carl Freeman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hatch in head

 

John,

 

Butyl is the way to go on these. The hatch is only held in with self tapping 
screws. 

 

As Paul mentioned the seal can have issues on the very back of hatch where the 
joint is. 

 

Carl Freeman

1979 C&C34

Groton, CT





On Dec 10, 2022, at 8:34 AM, Paul Hood via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:



John, There is no flange on these and the perimeter is vertical, top to bottom. 
 Also, the hinge side has seal issue and is prone to leaking. Not a great 
design.  I took mine out about 8 years ago, changed the seal, plexi, and reset 
it.  I can’t remember what I did in the resetting process but it has been 98% 
good since then.  It’s not perfect with the odd drip occasionally, but I’m 
leaving well enough alone. I know that’s not much help for you.

 

Paul Hood

REFUGE - ’81 C&C34 Georgian Bay

 

From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: December 9, 2022 10:03 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Hatch in head

 

https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-1
 
<https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-2>
 

 

My Atkins & Hoyle hatch in the head has developed a leak between the aluminum 
frame and the deck.  Have tried various sealants which all have failed mainly 
because they lose adhesion to the vertical aluminum surface.  Cannot figure out 
how to remove the frame so I can clean it and reseal (with butyl?).  There are 
no visible flanges.  It is a tight fit to the hole cur in the deck.  Has anyone 
had similar issues?  Is there a flange on the frame that is sealed to the 
underside of the deck?  Is it just glued in with plexus or similar?  All 
thoughts welcomed

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Hatch in head

[John Read via CnC-List]

Thanks Paul.  How on earth is it set into the deck hole?  I have tried all
manner of trying to get it loose to no avail.  You can stand on it so it's
solid but I have a hard time understanding how if the sides are all
vertical.

 

John Read

 

From: Paul Hood via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2022 8:34 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Paul Hood 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hatch in head

 

John, There is no flange on these and the perimeter is vertical, top to
bottom.  Also, the hinge side has seal issue and is prone to leaking. Not a
great design.  I took mine out about 8 years ago, changed the seal, plexi,
and reset it.  I can't remember what I did in the resetting process but it
has been 98% good since then.  It's not perfect with the odd drip
occasionally, but I'm leaving well enough alone. I know that's not much help
for you.

 

Paul Hood

REFUGE - '81 C&C34 Georgian Bay

 

From: John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: December 9, 2022 10:03 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: John Read mailto:johnprea...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Hatch in head

 

https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-Bo
at-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-1
<https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-B
oat-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-2> 

 

My Atkins & Hoyle hatch in the head has developed a leak between the
aluminum frame and the deck.  Have tried various sealants which all have
failed mainly because they lose adhesion to the vertical aluminum surface.
Cannot figure out how to remove the frame so I can clean it and reseal (with
butyl?).  There are no visible flanges.  It is a tight fit to the hole cur
in the deck.  Has anyone had similar issues?  Is there a flange on the frame
that is sealed to the underside of the deck?  Is it just glued in with
plexus or similar?  All thoughts welcomed

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Hatch in head

[John Read via CnC-List]

 

https://www.atkinshoyle.com/products/Single-Frame-Boat-Hatch/Single-Frame-Bo
at-Hatch/Model-550.html#Gallery-1

 

My Atkins & Hoyle hatch in the head has developed a leak between the
aluminum frame and the deck.  Have tried various sealants which all have
failed mainly because they lose adhesion to the vertical aluminum surface.
Cannot figure out how to remove the frame so I can clean it and reseal (with
butyl?).  There are no visible flanges.  It is a tight fit to the hole cur
in the deck.  Has anyone had similar issues?  Is there a flange on the frame
that is sealed to the underside of the deck?  Is it just glued in with
plexus or similar?  All thoughts welcomed

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.

[John Read via CnC-List]

I used Brownell 20 years ago to truck Legacy from Rochester NY to Mystic CT.  
Yes they go all over the country.  While it was a long time ago, the service 
was excellent

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Novabraid via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, December 02, 2022 10:34 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: csgilchr...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.

 

Brownell Transportation hauls quite a few boats headed south from New England 
and has been one of the primary transportation companies for boat manufacturers 
attending various boat shows around country.

www.Brownellboattransport.com  

Tom Brownell has been doing this for decades.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

 

From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Friday, December 2, 2022 9:52 AM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Chuck Saur mailto:cssau...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Moving 43 landfall from GA to FL and riggers.

 




 

 

Chuck Saur

517 490-5926 Cell

Call Jim Burt at Great Lakes Marine Transport.  Yes, they are in Wisconsin but 
travel all over.  Sometimes a small run like yours would be possible and 
perhaps cheaper on a dead-head run to somewhere else.  Did an incredible job 
for me from Lake Lanier to Hessel, Michigan!!

 

 

 

On Thu, Dec 1, 2022 at 5:32 PM david coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Neil and Tom. It is on Lake Lanier .no icw.it   came by truck 
from Florida and returns to our second home there on West coast Florida. It 
requires a truck and that is why I asked the group. Last time I use a 
transportation  truck company was 15 years ago and my go to  driver is retired.

On Thu, Dec 1, 2022, 4:50 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Or hire a captain

 

Sincerely,

Neil 

Neil Andersen 
20691 Jamieson Rd, 

Rock Hall, MD 21661

  neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com

LinkedIn: www.linkedin.com/pub/neil-andersen/0/239/a36/ 
 

+++

Save money and the environment.

Use Century Gothic font and save 30% of your ink

*** Confidential and Privileged ***

This e-mail message and any attachments are for the sole purpose of the 
intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. 
Any unauthorized review, use, disclosure or distribution is prohibited. If you 
are not the intended recipient, please contact the sender by reply e-mail, and 
destroy all copies of the original message and any attachments.

 

 

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape from Amazon

[John Read via CnC-List]

Got a roll of XFASTEN white butyl tape a few years ago from Amazon.  ¾ wide x 
1/8 thick x 30 feet long.  Used for rebedding hatch cover.  No problems, no 
leaks, applied easily.  Have kept remainder in sealed plastic bag.  Still in 
good shape and sticky.  Paper is thicker and removes easily.  Will use this 
spring to rebed main hatch.  Now in stock Amazon $17

 

2 cents American

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires

[John Read via CnC-List]

I have wintered at Fort Rachel for some 40 years now - a happy customer as
they say!  John and I also have several other club members who winter there
as well.  Very professional and competent, handle boats very well, do what
they say they will do in a reasonable time frame and pricing very
competitive.  Let you do your own work and ready help or borrow tools
whenever.  Or they will do the work for you.  They understandably are booked
solid year round.  My 2 cents American

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 5:12 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires

 

David,

 

Many have had the same bad experiences. They just sold their other marina,
Noank Shipyard, many boat owners and vendors had left there well before
that. I am also a very happy Fort Rachel customer. They are the best around
IMHO. 

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 2:25 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Risch mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires

 

Given that.maybe n insurance driven ROI.

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 2:11 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires

 

I can't say I am terribly saddened.  Seaport Marina is the worst marina I
have ever kept my boat at for the winter.  Bent my stanchions, scraped my
paint, power never worked in yard, water never worked, claimed they were
going to work on my transmission and never did.  I was there one winter and
never went back.  Across the river at Ft. Rachel marina had the opposite
experience.  Dave

 

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Nov 28, 2022, at 7:02 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Not Mystic Seaport:

 

Seaport Marine is across the Mystic River from downtown Mystic. Seaport
Marine is at 2 Washington St. and has a waterfront restaurant, Red 36, and a
retail store, Fighting Lady Tackle Co., according to its website.

Prestige Yacht Sales, which is also located at 2 Washington St., was among
the businesses consumed by the fire, Manfredi said.

 

On Mon, Nov 28, 2022 at 1:40 PM David Risch via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

As did I.what fire at the Seaport?

 

From: Richard Bush via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 10:46 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net  ; Richard Bush
mailto:bushma...@aol.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires

 

John, what would cause something like that "open neutral" to happen so
suddenly? 

I was able to attend the 2012 C&C rendezvous at Mystic and thoroughly
enjoyed it! 

Thanks

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;

 

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: John McCrea via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net  
Sent: Mon, Nov 28, 2022 10:39 am
Subject: Stus-List Re: Marina/boatyard fires

I was at the Mystic one last night. I live about a mile from downtown and my
boat is right across the river from Seaport Marine. When the explosions
started happening we rushed down. It was caused by an open neutral on the
power feed from the building to shore power to the boats in the water. It
was blowing hard as well and we were lucky to not lose more than we did. 

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT 

 

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Monday, November 28, 2022 10:30 AM
To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Marina/boatyard fires

 

Couple of boatyard fires lately.  Seaport Marine in Mystic, CT and Seabrook
Marine in New Orleans.  Tough news.


 

-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


Thanks for your help.

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[John Read via CnC-List]

Another thought used by my father back in the day was to get two automobile 
steering wheel covers each ½ the circumference of the boat wheel, cut each then 
glue together, use provided plastic “thread”.  Worked well and not expensive.  
As I recall they lasted quite a few years

.

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: John Read via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2022 9:46 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: 'CHARLES SCHEAFFER' ; John Read 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

 

HI Chuck

 

Installed the Edson version on my 40” wheel about 20 years ago.  Held up well 
and finally deteriorated so replaced last year with Edson.  I believe theirs is 
elk hide??  Very satisfying winter indoor project

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2022 7:02 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Leather wheel cover

 

Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?

I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.  The 
Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of stock.  
Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there better 
sources? 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis, Md

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Leather wheel cover

[John Read via CnC-List]

HI Chuck

 

Installed the Edson version on my 40” wheel about 20 years ago.  Held up well 
and finally deteriorated so replaced last year with Edson.  I believe theirs is 
elk hide??  Very satisfying winter indoor project

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2022 7:02 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Leather wheel cover

 

Anybody replace their leather wheel cover lately?

I'm thinking of asking for a leather kit for my 52" wheel for Chistmas.  The 
Edson price is $380 and Defender offers a discount but thy are out of stock.  
Boatleather.com wants $300.  More if I add a foam liner.  Are there better 
sources? 

 

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Annapolis, Md

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: C&C 32 Babystay

[John Read via CnC-List]

Our 1982 34 came with baby stay.  Attached to deck mounted track which is in 
turn attached to rod through deck with turnbuckle and screwed though hull into 
forward section of keel.

 

Some say it is not needed.  My experience and position is it is absolutely 
needed and very beneficial.  Going upwind in moderate conditions like 10-15 kts 
true and 1-2 foot seas it stops the considerable mast pumping and flattens the 
main.  Just lie on the deck looking up the mast in these conditions and observe 
the mast action and impact to the main with the baby stay tensioned and not.  
Also watch your speed through water.  Like night and day.  Of course as 
conditions become more severe the more beneficial the baby stay becomes.  For 
cruising in mild conditions no big deal but if racing a very big deal.

 

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Macdara Vallely via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2022 10:23 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Macdara Vallely 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 32 Babystay

 

So, I believe that my 82 C&C 32 had the option for a babystay.  It's listed in 
the brochure, and there is a fitting for what looks to be a t-ball fitting just 
above the spreaders.

 

No deck fittings on my boat though.  

 

Has anyone gone to the bother of installing the deck fitting?   If so, would 
you mind advising me on how you went about it?

 

Did you go for a fixed point, or track?  Chainplate to bulkhead; transfer the 
loads through deck to stringers below or beef up deck?  Also, how did you 
tension?  How was it stowed?

 

I'm interested in installing the babystay to beef up the rig a little.  The 
rod-rigging is of indeterminate age, and while it has been professionally 
inspected and passed muster, I am a belt for braces guy and I was thinking the 
babystay might offer some redundancy.

 

I appreciate all advice and speculation offered.

 

Thank you.

Macdara

 

 

Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[John Read via CnC-List]

Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
etc  no luck

 

John Read

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If it's 
attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and have a 
new lens put in, and put new gasket in?

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[John Read via CnC-List]

Thanks but how do I get it between the hatch and deck??

 

John Read

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:07 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

 

De-bond

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022 at 7:58 AM John Read via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

-- 

Joel 

Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

[John Read via CnC-List]

1.  Weld repair

2) Replace – Have found this scrap yard very helpful and large inventory at 
very reasonable  pricing  https://www.massmarineparts.com/

3.  Buy new – Klacko marine?  South Shore? – will be expensive

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 7:05 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Spreader replacement

 

Yeah, that's a nothing burger. Just take it too someone who can weld aluminum 
properly. I've done that a couple times with my own.

Bill Coleman 

 

On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 03:38 Macdara Vallely via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi,  

Anyone got any experience replacing spreader on an  80s C&C? 

I have a 1982 C&C 32 cb.  The crack in the picture is on the SB spreader 
leading edge.  

 

Here is a link to a photo of the damaged section 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PqaaEQj_VdWYvkdtyLgIO11Gto9svM9J

 

 

I want to replace but don’t know where to source the part.

In the meantime, would it be worth trying to throughbolt or rivet plates top 
and bottom to increase strength?  Or would the necessary holes compromise 
further?

All advice much appreciated.

 

Thanks 

Macdara 

NYC

-- 

Macdara

Stus-List 3M 4200

[John Read via CnC-List]

After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is
bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I 170%

[John Read via CnC-List]

How true how true – ain’t it wonderful 😊

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2022 10:01 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I 170%

 

The good thing about the older design is that when cruising, you can sail with 
just the genoa. I drive some friends crazy with their modern euro boats that 
cannot sail without the main up. I am pushing 7 knots, towing a dinghy with a 
135 genoa in a 15 knot breeze and they can not keep up under full sail. Most 
modern boats today fall into that category. 

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1 

Mystic, CT

 

From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 9:34 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: wolf...@erie.net  
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I 170%

 

I don’t think that’s correct.  My boom is very small compared to the size of 
the boat, and my mast appears to be placed a bit forward of normal.  I assume 
the 1975 design was IOR driven.

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2022 4:33 PM
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Hoyt, Mike mailto:mike.h...@impgroup.com> >; 
CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I 170%

 

I thought the shorter boom was due to designers placing the mast further back 
to get a large J measurement so 150% genoas were bigger.  More sail area 
overall. 

 

Chuck S

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[John Read via CnC-List]

Remember 5200 is a permanent adhesive - not a sealant



John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: james drew via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2022 5:12 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: james drew
Subject: Stus-List Re: C&C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

Hello Dwight,
Did you use any bedding compound in the smile before you glassed?
I was planning on doing some tightening this winter and was contemplating
squeezing 3M 5200 into the smile before tightening and then glassing the
exterior of the smile.
Cheers,
jpdsailor=

Stus-List Shower drain fitting

[John Read via CnC-List]

Looking for source for shower drain fitting.  OEM is 40 years old and past
its prime.  Is re rubber, sits on floor of shower, connected to pump

 

TIA

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: Tiller wobble

[John Read via CnC-List]

Had same issue on my 34.  Could see the doughnut nut and shaft top wobble
about.  Could also move bottom of rudder side to side easily.  Also had
issue of rain and water leaking past doughnut nut and suspected caused by
nut and delrin washer not sitting square onto plate.  Have regularly greased
shaft - have tube and grease fitting.  Steers like butter. Very smooth.
Fixed wobble when on the hard by supporting rudder, removing plate secured
to cockpit floor, found hole for shaft was worn and was larger diameter than
threads of shaft.  Had machine shop replace bronze bearing of correct size.
The bronze bearing wears over time as interfaces with stainless threads of
shaft.  Reinstall.  Wobble gone and water leakage is now minimal.  Biggest
issue is crawling under floor to get to nuts holding plate,  2 man job as do
not want to rotate bolts so as to not disturb butyl sealer so 1 below
working the nuts and 1 topside keeping bolts from moving

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, August 05, 2022 3:20 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Korbey Hunt
Subject: Stus-List Tiller wobble

 

My 1980 34 C&C has a tiller that wobbles excessively when running with
engine at 3,000 rpm.  A cursory inspection does not show any adjustment or
easy bearing replacement.  All bolts are tight. There is some slack, maybe
1/8" when testing the tiller by moving back and forth at the dock. Has
anyone else experienced this?  Is there a known easy solution short of
replacement?  Should I be concerned.  This seems to have gotten worse over
the years.

Korbey, SV Oz

 

Get Outlook for Android  

Stus-List Re: C&C 34 Winch replacement

[John Read via CnC-List]

I found the 25 was insufficient as primary winch so replaced with Barient 28
which I picked up second hand.  Moved the 25's to secondary placement and
the 22's one to main sheet.  Yes  involved new holes but a tremendous
improvement especially for the 155 genoa and spinnaker.  None are self
tailing.  I both race and cruise

 

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2022 11:51 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Dean McNeill
Subject: Stus-List C&C 34 Winch replacement

 

Looking to replace the original Barient 25 double speed primary winches on
my 1980 C&C 34 over the off season with similar sized self-tailing ones.
Anyone with a similar boat find a good replacement with same or similar
mounting holes that would save me some work? Really interested in what
others have done and recommend.

 

Thanks, Dean

 

C&C 34

BarraWind

Halifax, NS, Canada

 

Stus-List Re: vented loops

[John Read via CnC-List]

Interesting – have not heard or seen vented loops used this way.  My 34 does 
not have them and no problems in 40 years

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 29, 2022 5:20 PM
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER
Subject: Stus-List vented loops

 

Learned the hard way how to test vented loops. 

 

I was changing engine hoses and came upon an original, 33 year old, bronze, 
vented loop for the engine cooling water.  It's located between the heat 
exchanger and the injection elbow of the exhaust riser.  It's purpose is to 
break a siphon and prevent water flooding the engine and the boat when the 
engine is off.  Mine was filled with scale and no longer operational.  

 

The following comes from info included with a new Forespar vented loop.  To 
test a vented loop, you blow air through the vent from outside into the tubing, 
through the "duck bill" rubber thing, and that's it.  If air won't penetrate, 
it's clogged and should be cleaned.  If the thing leaks, it probably needs 
cleaning or a new rubber duck bill. 

 

I replaced the Forespar rubber duckbill, $15, on my bilge pump hose and I 
replaced the entire loop fitting $44 on the engine hose using a Forespar 5/8" 
vented loop.  Now both of my vented loops use the same duckbill vent and have 
the same size retaining nut so a simple clear two foot length of 3/4" hose can 
be pushed over the fitting to facilitate testing either vented loop. 

 

I have to add that I never had a problem in twenty years of ownership and 
ingnored these items until I started replacing hoses.  I'd be glad to hear 
anyone else's ideas on this.

 

Chuck S 

  

 

  

Stus-List Re: Thinking about Chartering Corsair...

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi David

 

I used to charter my 34 but only through direct referrals and check out of
the applicant.  One week charters 2 or 3 times a summer.  Had to stop as the
insurer would no longer allow on a casual basis.  Checked around and found
similar policies.  Would have required a commercial policy at huge increase
in premium to make it non viable.  Stopped chartering.  This was all about
10 years ago so do not know current insurance requirements.  One avenue
might be to charter through an agency.  I recall there are a few in Newport.

 

BTW, congratulations on your Bermuda success

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: David Risch via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2022 10:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Risch
Subject: Stus-List Thinking about Chartering Corsair...

 

Hello,

 

We are back in New England and will be aboard Corsair playing through the
end of July.  The boat, will then sit idle through October.  Seems a bit
crazy to just have it sit there, especially when I am hearing (and seeing)
charter rates of $4,000 a week?!

 

Besides the usual concerns (insurance strangers aboard your boat etc.)
anybody have experience with a long term or short term charter of your own
boat and could impart some perspective and reality check.

 

As always, thanks in advance.

 

David F. Risch

Managing Director

Great Benefits USA

401-419-4650 - Direct Line

Image removed by sender.

 
 www.greatbenefitsusa.com

 

The content of this email is confidential and intended for the recipient
specified in message only. It is strictly forbidden to share any part of
this message with any third party, without a written consent of the sender.
If you received this message by mistake, please reply to this message and
follow with its deletion, so that we can ensure such a mistake does not
occur in the future.

Great Benefits USA puts the security of the client at a high priority.
Therefore, we have put efforts into ensuring that the message is error and
virus-free. Unfortunately, full security of the email cannot be ensured as,
despite our efforts, the data included in emails could be infected,
intercepted, or corrupted. Therefore, the recipient should check the email
for threats with proper software, as the sender does not accept liability
for any damage inflicted by viewing the content of this email.

 

 

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[John Read via CnC-List]

Correction  exhaust mixing elbow partially blocked

On Sun, Jun 26, 2022, 5:04 PM John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My first thought is blocked exhaust riser – especially if has been several
> years since last checked.  Causes high back pressure causing engine not
> able to rev to spec
>
>
>
> John Read
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 26, 2022 9:38 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott
> *Subject:* Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF
>
>
>
>
> Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out
> heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found the
> engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed
> to be that complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know where to start
> to trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke
> to him and told him the situation and he thinks it is a fuel
> problemengine not getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should
> be clean as I had the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel
> filters replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are restricting the
> fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so.
>
> Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc.
> the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat
>
> Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[John Read via CnC-List]

My first thought is blocked exhaust riser – especially if has been several 
years since last checked.  Causes high back pressure causing engine not able to 
rev to spec

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2022 9:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF

 


Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out heading 
into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found the engine 
wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed to be that 
complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know where to start to trouble 
shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke to him and told 
him the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine not getting 
enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I had the bottom of it 
replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters replaced. He thinks one or both of 
the filters are restricting the fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't 
think so. 

Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc.  the 
engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat

Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.

 

Stus-List Re: Reefing lines

[John Read via CnC-List]

Very simple and effective system I have

1)  Ease sheet and vang.  Take up on topping lift so end of boom does not 
come too far down.

2)  Lower main halyard – insert reef point into horn attached to boom at 
mast – tighten halyard

3)  Take up on reef line.  Line is attached to port boom a few inches aft 
of reef point, goes up through cringle, back down to starboard turning block 
also a few inches aft of reef point then forward to winch on boom.  Loosen 
sheet and vang and topping lift as needed.  Winch tight, cleat.  (Note:  
outhaul uses same winch and is held by jam cleat aft of winch)

4)  Trim vang and sheet

 

Easy

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

[John Read via CnC-List]

Geez John - it never ends L

 

John Read

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 5:27 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

 

thanks

 

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 5:26 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Hot Water Heater.

 

I think that Kuuma are the closest as a direct replacement, but they don't
last too long. Depending on how you use your boat, you may want to consider
a water heater with a stainless tank. I installed an ISO-Temp heater (they
are now part of the Webasto group). They come with the temperature
regulating valve and they are supposed to be quite reliable. But the cost is
usually a bit higher.

 

Marek

1994 C270 Legato

Ottawa, ON

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 2:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater.

 

Hello. While working on my packing nut I noticed that one of the hot water
leads from the heat exchanger snapped off. The inlet fitting was completely
corroded through. Same with the other exit side. Glad I am still on land!

 

It is a Force 10 and could even be original. Since they are welded on it is
time to replace. I noticed that Force 10 no longer makes them and Kuuma is
now the closest replacement? Looks identical. Anyone have one of these?
Thanks.

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Stus-List Re: Plumbing

[John Read via CnC-List]

Believe this fitting is designed for quick connect ½ inch tubing.  Very similar 
to what I used when I redid entire boat with PEX tubing.  Try these guys

 

https://www.freshwatersystems.com

  

I used the Watts Aqualock products

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2022 8:56 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Stus-List Plumbing

 

Alera has that old grey hoses for fresh water.  I am installing a Raritan Fresh 
Head toilet that will require a connection to my pressurized water. Not sure 
when will and will not work with this old hose..  I picked this up.  Not sure 
if it will mate up. 

 

15mm Metric Series Quick Connect Plumbing System Unions, Union - Tee

 

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/seatech-inc-15mm-metric-series-quick-connect-plumbing-system-adapters/2413-0815

 

Tom B

Typoed from my iPhone

 

Tom Buscaglia

Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon Island WA

O 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

Skype - thombusc

 

 

Stus-List Re: Finishing on 1990 30-2 companion way stairs

[John Read via CnC-List]

Still have original oiled teak interior.  Every spring wipe stairs and entire 
interior with lemon oil furniture polish.   Let sink in.  Wipe dry with clean 
soft cloth.  Does wonders to clean the teak and smells great.  Prevents mold 
and removes any that may have formed.  Usually do it on a warmish sunny day in 
February or March when cover is still on with tunes on the radio.  Boat 
interior is comfortable and whole job takes 2 afternoons.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

Stus-List Re: Exhaust hose recommendation

[John Read via CnC-List]

Would not be surprised that the hose has to meet certain specs.  If anything 
like the fuel hose I had to use when replacing my tank a few years ago, it was 
big $$$

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging > Rigging Grease

[John Read via CnC-List]

Green waterproof grease.  Lubrimatic wheel bearing grease marine waterproof.  
Does not create a oil sheen.

 

Wipe off excess after rig is tightened.  No galling of threads in turnbuckles.  
No issues with dust dirt or salt.  I use PVC pipe to cover turnbuckles and 
cotter pins

 

John Read

 

From: nausetbe...@optonline.net [mailto:nausetbe...@optonline.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 9:53 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: 'Della Barba, Joe'; 'John Read'
Subject: RE: Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging > Rigging Grease

 

John,

 

What do you use for grease on the turnbuckles?  Have heard people recommend 
Lanocote, and have used that in the past.  Seems like any grease has the 
tendency to attract dust / dirt / salt etc. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

 

From: John Read via CnC-List  
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2022 9:24 AM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: 'Della Barba, Joe' ; John Read 

Subject: Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging

 

FWIW still have original rod rigging on a now 40 year old boat.  Had visually 
inspected over the winter by a rigger and everything appears fine.  Boat spent 
first 17 years in fresh water, balance in salt here in CT.  Rig taken down 
every winter.  Turnbuckles and heads greased every spring.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:41 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Now Rod Rigging

 

This is really something to think about when boat shopping.  For the C&C 40 
that I looked at and passed on because of hard grounding damage, the local 
riggers basically would not inspect the rig at all. They all told me more or 
less “it’s old, it needs replacing, we’ll probably damage fittings we can’t buy 
anymore if we try and get it apart”

Joe

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:26 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - 
Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

 

Just replaced 30 year old wire on my Hylas.  Everything still looked great 
until we removed the furler drum.  There was a LOT of corrosion under the 
furler.  

 

I've been told that for salt water boats the rod needs to be inspected and 
reheaded every 10 years and wire should be replaced at ten years (although few 
people do it)

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 10:22 AM MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Sort of.   I sailed my own boat for 30 years before I replaced the rod rigging. 
  I still have the original backstay which I re-headed.   The cost of doing an 
inspection on rod is prohibitively expensive.   In my opinion it is more cost 
effective to replace it rather than pay to have it inspected.In general it 
is best ro replace all  rigging at the 15-20 year mark depending on where and 
how the boat was sailed.   The local USCG Marine inspectors want rod rigging at 
the 10 year mark for commercial boats.   Were I in Brian’s shoes I’d buy the 
boat and sail it for a season or two and then decide what to do with it.   

 

Just my opinion.

 

Sail safe, 

 

Mike 

 

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA 

 

On Apr 18, 2022, at 9:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

So basically any boat with rod rigging older than 2002 would need all new 
standing rigging?

Joe

Coquina

 

 

Stus-List Re: Now Rod Rigging

[John Read via CnC-List]

FWIW still have original rod rigging on a now 40 year old boat.  Had visually 
inspected over the winter by a rigger and everything appears fine.  Boat spent 
first 17 years in fresh water, balance in salt here in CT.  Rig taken down 
every winter.  Turnbuckles and heads greased every spring.

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:41 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Now Rod Rigging

 

This is really something to think about when boat shopping.  For the C&C 40 
that I looked at and passed on because of hard grounding damage, the local 
riggers basically would not inspect the rig at all. They all told me more or 
less “it’s old, it needs replacing, we’ll probably damage fittings we can’t buy 
anymore if we try and get it apart”

Joe

 

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
Sent: Monday, April 18, 2022 10:26 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Recommendation: Osprey Composites - 
Herrington Harbor, area Riggers

 

Just replaced 30 year old wire on my Hylas.  Everything still looked great 
until we removed the furler drum.  There was a LOT of corrosion under the 
furler.  

 

I've been told that for salt water boats the rod needs to be inspected and 
reheaded every 10 years and wire should be replaced at ten years (although few 
people do it)

 

Joel

 

On Mon, Apr 18, 2022 at 10:22 AM MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Sort of.   I sailed my own boat for 30 years before I replaced the rod rigging. 
  I still have the original backstay which I re-headed.   The cost of doing an 
inspection on rod is prohibitively expensive.   In my opinion it is more cost 
effective to replace it rather than pay to have it inspected.In general it 
is best ro replace all  rigging at the 15-20 year mark depending on where and 
how the boat was sailed.   The local USCG Marine inspectors want rod rigging at 
the 10 year mark for commercial boats.   Were I in Brian’s shoes I’d buy the 
boat and sail it for a season or two and then decide what to do with it.   

 

Just my opinion.

 

Sail safe, 

 

Mike 

 

Virginia Lee 93295

1978 C&C 36 CB

Virginia Beach, VA 

 

On Apr 18, 2022, at 9:41 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

So basically any boat with rod rigging older than 2002 would need all new 
standing rigging?

Joe

Coquina

 

 

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

[John Read via CnC-List]

Butyl

 

In my experience it is the only sealant that will stay adhered to stainless and 
still allow movement

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2022 6:53 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing - now sealants in general

 

Butyl tape

 

On Sun, Apr 17, 2022 at 11:39 AM Matthew via CnC-List  
wrote:

Stus-List Re: Chainplates

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi Mike

 

Not sure I fully understand.  How does turning the rod tighten things?  There 
should be some sort of turnbuckle  or threaded device somewhere.  Issue of 
corrosion of rod head (stainless) and aluminum block?  By chain plate are you 
referring to some sort of block that the rigging attaches to?  When the rig is 
tightened and tuned it will lift chain plate and remove the slack of the tie 
rod.  More info please

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

Stus-List Re: Winch replacement

[John Read via CnC-List]

Dean

Not quite sure what you mean by upgrade, but in my case the OEM winches were 
too small.  Boat came with Barients - #26 primary and #22 secondary and #10 
mainsheet.  I picked up 2 Barient #28 from this list as primary, moved the two 
#26 to secondary and one #22 to mainsheet.  HUGE improvement in trimming sails 
and still working just fine.  FWIW I disassemble, clean, grease and oil on a 
regular basis usually in spring.  All are aluminum drum and not self tailing as 
I do a fair amount of racing.  This list and Ebay are your friends.  Also 
suggest looking at Mass Marine in Quincy MA.  They are yacht salvage and have 
an extensive inventory of winches.  Tell John I said "hi".

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi John  Had similar issues on my 34.  Silicone, 4200 and similar all
failed as did not adhere well to the stainless chain plates as they move a
lot as rig tensions. Only thing that has worked is butyl.  Going on 10
years and no leaks. Not sure what benefits the stainless pin provides as is
not well secured. Glad to chat anytime.  John Read

On Mon, Mar 21, 2022, 4:27 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello. I have a leak on my port side chainplate that needs addressing. I
> pulled both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainless rod
> on starboard that holds the two chainplates pieces together. One on port is
> missing. Maybe that is causing excess movement and more adapt to leak? The
> covers are original and thin 1/16 aluminum. I am getting them beefed up to
> 1/8 stainless.
>
>
>
> Looks like the PO had only sealed them with clear silicone. So that will
> all be dug out. I am also inspecting the hull tabbing below with the
> chainplates etc to ensure that I do not have any issues there. What is the
> best sealant to use when installing the new cover plates? Thanks!
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
>
> John McCrea
>
> Talisman
>
> 1979 36-1
>
> Mystic, CT
>

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Cheap C&C 33 on FB marketplace

[John Read via CnC-List]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/404326101462645/?ref=search&referr
al_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Af
d53698b-ec67-47e4-872d-fb4ee8cbb30f

Just providing updated URL for this boat.  Know the boat as was successfully
raced for several years in our area.  Local owner sold her as bought newer
boat.  Current owners had mishap with engine hence the sale.  Would be a
great buy for someone

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2022 1:54 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Cheap C&C 33 on FB marketplace

So $6K all in once the boat is working again if nothing else is wrong, not
too bad and say $9K if you want a new A4 instead of scrounging Craigslist.
Joe
Coquina

-Original Message-
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, March 10, 2022 6:04 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Cheap C&C 33 on FB marketplace

East Coast of U.S.
Nothing to do with me, but a good price for someone.
Atomic 4 Kaput
$3k

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1837505369973569/?ref=browse_tab&r
eferral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C&C Photo Album
site.
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C&C Photo Album
site.
Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C&C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: List problems

[John Read via CnC-List]

Comes through fine both with link in body as well as no link on both gmail and 
outlook

John Read

-Original Message-
From: Stu via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2022 9:44 AM
To: C&C Email List
Cc: Stu
Subject: Stus-List List problems

I guess I was wrong.  The problems started when I put the cutting board
footer in the emails.

Now we have identified the problem -- it is not with the list but
specifically with how some email programs and providers handle the
emails.  What is disturbing is that one company decides what is best for
you and all the other companies do not see a problem.

Now as an experiment, I am adding a link to the body of this message. 
Let's see how it goes through --

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stu
There are no links in this footer.
There are no links in this footer.

Stus-List The attachments are driving me nuts

[John Read via CnC-List]

I run Windows 10 and use a gmail account which receives all  messages just 
fine.  I use Outlook 2007 to read the emails and separate into several folders. 
 By this means I can delete emails I do not want to keep as gmail saves 
everything.  The only time I have a Outlook problem is this list.  Some get 
converted to attachments .txt and .htm, and some come through just fine.

I googled "why does outlook change incoming email to attachments".  It is most 
apparent this has been an ongoing problem for Outlook for many years.  Several 
threads with Microsoft Tech Help are listed.  I am no computer genius so have 
no idea what they are talking about but one thing did stand out for me.  Having 
URL or attachments in the body or at the end of the sender's email is a 
probable cause for the issue for the recipient if using Outlook.  There are 
fixes per Microsoft which could explain why some senders work fine and others 
do not depending on how their particular computers are set up and how up to 
date they are.

My thought would be to try removing the cutting board notice for a while and 
see what happens?  Also is there a computer genius who could coordinate with 
Stu, review the various threads and perhaps contact Microsoft?

My 2 cents American

John Read   
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List email problem

[John Read via CnC-List]

Dennis post on fire extinguishers came through gmail just fine.  When I
access gmail through Outlook it converted the message to an attachment as
.htm file
This only happens with list postings

Any clues??

John Read

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2022 1:30 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Stus-List New fire extinguisher regulation (US)


Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: Email problem

[John Read via CnC-List]

Some postings come through just fine, others as an attachment which is a
PITA.  The interesting part is some of Robert Abbots came through both ways
and some attachments as multiple postings with the same information

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2022 4:32 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Hoyt, Mike; Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List Email problem


My email issue to the list has been short but baffling...if this goes 
through, it should be resolved...for now...but who knows exactly what is 
happening out there in cyber land and who is doing whatever is happening 
out there.

Rob Abbott
Halifax, N.S.

On 2022-02-15 4:23 p.m., Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
> Interestingly the email below from Joel came to my Outlook email (exchange
server) as an attachment and to my Gmail account as a message without the
issue.
>
> I am sending this as Text rather than html so should not have the issue.
>
> Wonder why Outlook treats html that way from only this email list?
>
> Mike Hoyt
> Halifax NS
>
>
Impress your crew and dock mates with a personalized C&C galley cutting
board:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
cnc-list@cnc-list.com   cnc-list

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus test 1

[John Read via CnC-List]

Received just fine

John Read

-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2022 7:51 AM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus test 1


Plain text test

Stus-List Test 2

[John Read via CnC-List]

The rain in Spain.
There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Test One

[John Read via CnC-List]

The rain in Spain  ..

 

John Read

 

There is still time to get the Admiral something for Valentine's Day:
cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Re: The board

[John Read via CnC-List]

All messages of late on my cell have messages as normal text.  On my laptop
the messages are now all as attachments.  Have gmail account and read thru
Outlook.  Recent issue have not changed any settings

John Read

-Original Message-
From: Ted_Relinda--- via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2022 3:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ted_reli...@yahoo.com
Subject: Stus-List The board

Stus-List Re: Long shot: replacement C&C 36-1 anchor locker hatch/cover

[John Read via CnC-List]

C&C custom logoed kitchen/galley cutting boards are now available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards/index.htm

Wyatt

Your question is how to replace the lost anchor locker hatch on your 36-1?

Where are you located?  A marine salvage yard would be a good place to start
looking.  Have had good experience with Mass Maritime in Quincy,MA.  Google
search discloses a bunch of others all over the country.

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

Stus-List Stanchion feet

[John Read via CnC-List]

Am in process of repairing bow pulpit after it tried to make friends with
Mr. Piling.  May need new feet (Klacko type A or C)  Can list advise who may
have them?

TIA

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Painting Rudders White.

[John Read via CnC-List]

My C&C 34 now 40 years old and nary a problem in this regard.  Prior boat 25 
years nary a problem.  I think the issue has more to do with how the rudder is 
constructed.  If just shaped foam covered with a few layers of glass and even 
better is water logged then might be a problem.  Mine is solid glass 3-4 inches 
thick around entire perimeter and is dry so no problems.  John your 36 has 
older thick not really tapered design so most likely not an issue for you.

 

My 2 cents American  J

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 4:02 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net; Martin DeYoung
Subject: Stus-List Re: Painting Rudders White.

 

 Not quite the same risk but last summer (2021) when Calypso was hauled out for 
paint and repairs the PNW experienced a stretch of very hot weather. It was 
enough sustained heat that all the white lithium grease around the rudder 
bearings “melted” and ran down the rudder to puddle on the tarp (ground). 

 

Fortunately it cooled down before we got around to stripping/painting the 
rudder.

I posted reminders to refill the packing gland before launching but after all 
painting was finished. It took most of a grease tube before I observed a 
suitable amount of grease squirting out of the usual places.

Martin DeYoung

Calypso 

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle 





On Jan 7, 2022, at 10:53 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List  
wrote:

 

Curious if anyone has been told that you should paint their rudders white to 
prevent issues when the boat is out for the winter? One of the staff at my 
winter yard told me he has seen C&C rudders burst due to the sun heating them 
up? 

 

I used to do this on my past Ericson 32 as the previous owner had and told me 
that they had similar issues. Did not on our last C&C 37XL nor our current, and 
the previous owner of 25 years did not. I am so buried with other boats around 
me I doubt I even get any sun exposure. I assume once the boat is in the water 
it does not matter. Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Water

[John Read via CnC-List]

A quick internet search indicates caution using windshield washer fluid in 
potable water lines.  Most fluids use methanol also known as methyl / wood 
alcohol  to prevent the freezing.  Methanol is highly poisonous and can cause 
blindness.  It may be ingested through air, skin or mouth.  May also be 
corrosive

 

The water system antifreeze are usually based on propylene glycol which is 
considered generally safe unless ingested in large quantities.  Propylene 
glycol rarely causes toxic effects, and then only under very unusual 
circumstances. Propylene glycol is a Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) food 
additive that is widely used in cosmetics. In certain medicines, cosmetics, and 
food products, propylene glycol acts as solvent.

 

In both cases, thorough rinsing of the potable system is recommended

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, January 07, 2022 9:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Water

 

My mast is usually out during the winter...left it in this year for reasons...I 
use a cheap -35C windshield washer in the bilge to prevent any water from 
freezing before I get to the boat to pump it out. Mast in or mast out, I don't 
use either the manual or electric pump(s) in the winterboth lines and pumps 
are primed with the same -35C rated windshield washer to prevent any chance of 
freezing causing trouble.  Has worked well for the past 16 winters.

Rob Abbott 
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax,N.S. 

On 2022-01-07 1:33 a.m., Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

Water leaks in on a warmer day and then freezes before I can get to it and pump 
it out.  No auto pump.  Cheap anti-freeze works well 'til I visit the boat 
again.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C&C 30-1

STL

 

 

On Thursday, January 6, 2022, 11:11:53 PM CST, andrew macLean  
  wrote: 

 

 

Ron, Why are you putting anti-freeze in the bilge?

 

Andrew

C&C 30-1

Gulf Islands, BC

 





Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Looking for a transmission for a yanmar

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi Joel

 

Just a thought would your friend be better served to rebuild his current 
tranny?  No issues of fit or ratios and a lot less cost.  When the Kanzaki 
KM3-A tranny on my Yanmar 3GM started slipping, it was near impossible to find 
a replacement.  Had it rebuilt by a local marina / transmission shop and they 
botched the job which I understand is easy to do.  I wound up getting it 
rebuilt by a very knowledgeable and experienced fellow in New Jersey.  He was 
the tech who actually did the rebuilds at Mack Boring the east coast 
distributor for Yanmar.  When they went out of the rebuild business he set up 
his own shop.  Shipped it to him by parcel post, he turned it around in a week 
and I had it reinstalled just in time for a charter.  That was 2016 and running 
like a champ ever since.

 

East Coast Marine Transmission  

Rick Neary

East Coast Marine Transmission

Perth Amboy, NJ

732-991-0694

 

No interest in firm or knowledge of current status, just happy customer

 

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Joel Delamirande via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2021 3:43 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Joel Delamirande
Subject: Stus-List Looking for a transmission for a yanmar

 

Good afternoon sailors

 I have a sailor looking to buy a transmission 

For a yanmar 3HM35F or a replacement transmission 

Joel 

-- 

Joel Delamirande

  

 

www.jdroofing.ca

 

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: What's this thingy?

[John Read via CnC-List]

Helps prevent lobster pot lines getting caught and jammed between rudder
and hull. And yes it does work
John Read
Legacy III
Noank CT

On Thu, Dec 23, 2021, 11:11 AM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Good day C&C'ers,
>
> Wishing all a very merry Christmas!
>
> What's the little stainless steel rod about 2" long that come out of the
> bottom of the hull just a few inches forward of the rudder?
>
> Regards,
> Brian
>
> 1980 Landfall 38SL
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Used Tuff Luff or Harken carbo foil

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi Rod

 

A bit far away from you but a possible source is 

 

Boat Parts | Contact Us   -
Quincy, MA (massmarineparts.com)

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Rod Stright via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2021 5:28 AM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: Rod Stright
Subject: Stus-List Used Tuff Luff or Harken carbo foil

 

Hey Folks,

 

Does anyone have a used racing foil they are no longer using?  Tuff Luff or
Harken #6 luff tape and approx.  45' in length.

 

Rod Stright

Halifax

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Rudder shaft play

[John Read via CnC-List]

So I believe we have a plan.  After discussions with other C&C owners whose 
rudderpost arrangement is similar the culprit is the stainless plate bolted to 
the cockpit floor.  It has a bronze bushing through which the rudder post 
passes.  That plays a significant role in keeping the shaft in alignment.  Over 
time it wears and enlarges, allowing the top of the shaft to move.  The fix is 
to support the rudder while on the hard, remove the donut nut, then remove the 
plate which may entail lots of boat yoga under the deck as the nuts are 
extremely close to the steering quadrant.  Take the plate to a machine shop and 
have them remove the old bearing and press in a new bronze / oil bushing with 
ID closely matching shaft OD.  Reverse the process to install.

 

It was suggested to cut an access hole and install an inspection plate in the 
vertical face behind the helm seat to improve access to the steering system.  
Any words of wisdom from the group?

 

 

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Joel Delamirande [mailto:joel.delamira...@gmail.com] 
Sent: Saturday, November 20, 2021 6:16 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: John Read
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder shaft play

 

This should be interesting I have to do mine 

On a 30 mk1  if anyone have experience 

 

On Sat, Nov 20, 2021 at 6:09 PM John Read via CnC-List  
wrote:

After 40 years the rudder now has a bit of play laterally and fore and aft.  
Bottom of rudder can be moved less than an inch in all directions.  Not bad but 
should be addressed.  This also is most likely causing the leak through the 
shaft where it penetrates the deck fitting causing the donut to be not true to 
the stainless plate on the cockpit floor.  The design is very simple – shaft 
rides inside tube (with grease) that is glassed into hull, shaft is open from 
top of tube to bottom of cockpit floor to allow steering quadrant , shaft goes 
through hole in cockpit floor, through stainless bearing plate on top of 
cockpit floor, through delrin washer, then shaft is threaded and donut 
installed that rides on delrin washer.

My initial thought is to machine a delrin bearing and washer that would fill 
the small gap between the shaft and hole in the bearing plate / cockpit floor 
but wanted to inquire if anyone else has had similar issues or thoughts

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

-- 

Joel Delamirande

Image removed by sender.

www.jdroofing.ca

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Rudder shaft play

[John Read via CnC-List]

After 40 years the rudder now has a bit of play laterally and fore and aft.  
Bottom of rudder can be moved less than an inch in all directions.  Not bad but 
should be addressed.  This also is most likely causing the leak through the 
shaft where it penetrates the deck fitting causing the donut to be not true to 
the stainless plate on the cockpit floor.  The design is very simple – shaft 
rides inside tube (with grease) that is glassed into hull, shaft is open from 
top of tube to bottom of cockpit floor to allow steering quadrant , shaft goes 
through hole in cockpit floor, through stainless bearing plate on top of 
cockpit floor, through delrin washer, then shaft is threaded and donut 
installed that rides on delrin washer.

My initial thought is to machine a delrin bearing and washer that would fill 
the small gap between the shaft and hole in the bearing plate / cockpit floor 
but wanted to inquire if anyone else has had similar issues or thoughts

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

[John Read via CnC-List]

Yes John you do have a boat problem  J

 

I assume the topside of the binnacle is good?  Issue will be corrosion.
Stainless to aluminum is an issue.  What are the bolts interacting with
below deck?  Other thought is the aluminum bolts lasted many decades without
damage to the binnacle.  Any luck googling for causes of aluminum bolts
corroding / failing?  Legacy's aluminum bolts are fine by all accounts after
40 years.  One possibility is the nut loosened, allowing the bolt head to
loosen just enough to allow water to seep in and cause corrosion.  Just some
thoughts.

 

Best of luck

 

John Read

 

From: John McCrea via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Friday, November 19, 2021 4:19 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Edson Steering Sheave Assembly Bolt Failure.

 

All,

 

I was aware that my bolts in my steering assembly below the pedestal were
failing when I noticed a gap on the bow side of the sheave assembly this
summer. After trying to tighten one of the aluminum bolts it crumbled. Had
two remaining good ones in the stern and limped the way through the
remainder of the season. Today loosened the steering cables to start to take
apart the assembly with the intent of fixing in place with new bolts. Having
had a similar but more catastrophic failure on our past 1989 37/40 XL I can
see that the assembly itself is in good shape. My question is the use of the
aluminum bolts. Since that is what failed should I switch to stainless? May
be a good question for Rob Ball but wanted to see what others have used.
Thanks!

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 33-2 Used Spinnaker wanted

[John Read via CnC-List]

Located Groton CT

On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, 2:05 PM John Read via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi Scott
> Have one for a 33-1. In very good shape. Made by Reynolds. I and J measure
> is close. Crinkly cloth. John Read
>
> On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, 9:06 AM Scott Baker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all! We’ve recently acquired a 33-2 and we’d like to train the family
>> to race. We need a 3/4 Oz. Chute. Anyone have a used one to sell that has
>> some life left in it?
>> -Scott Baker
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 33-2 Used Spinnaker wanted

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi Scott
Have one for a 33-1. In very good shape. Made by Reynolds. I and J measure
is close. Crinkly cloth. John Read

On Sun, Nov 14, 2021, 9:06 AM Scott Baker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all! We’ve recently acquired a 33-2 and we’d like to train the family
> to race. We need a 3/4 Oz. Chute. Anyone have a used one to sell that has
> some life left in it?
> -Scott Baker
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Leaking rudder shaft

[John Read via CnC-List]

Proof will be crawl into locker while crew directs hose at fitting. Stay
tuned
John

On Sun, May 30, 2021, 5:04 PM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 81 CnC34 has no seals or any evidence that there was or could be.  The
> water-tightness depends on the Delrin or nylon washer being a flush fit to
> the SS surface of the fitting bolted to the cockpit floor and the nut being
> snugged down.  I wonder if there isn't some defect or other issue with the
> area around the rudder post or maybe the water is coming in at the stern
> somewhere, running down the inside, hitting the rudder post and then on
> down? I can't imagine much detectable water getting in at the nut if the
> washer is flush.
>
> Jeff L.
> 81 C&C34 Harmony
> Ludington, MI
>
> --
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 30, 2021 4:52 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Leaking rudder shaft
>
> You need to replace the seals or do as you are and cover. It’s not too
> hard to fix above deck seals.
>
> On Sun, May 30, 2021 at 4:01 PM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Any thoughts on how to stop the leak where the rudder shaft comes through
> the cockpit floor on a 34?  The interface of delrin washers under the nut
> leak if heavy rain.  Am thinking of some sort of cover over the nut.  Leak
> drips onto quadrant under floor then into bilge.
>
>
>
> TIA
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Water along toe rail

[John Read via CnC-List]

Old face cloth. Cut in half. Fold over. Insert in toerail hole. Half hangs
over the side. Other half inboard of toerail. Wicks very well. Replace as
needed as gets funky.  Cheap and effective. John Read

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021, 10:59 AM John Irvin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> They are called baggywrinkles. Old cotton rope works well.
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *James Hesketh via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *April 29, 2021 10:55 AM
> *To: *Stus-List 
> *Cc: *James Hesketh 
> *Subject: *Stus-List Water along toe rail
>
>
>
> A while back there was a discussion about using wicking material to suck
> up the standing water that gets trapped along the toe rail to carry it
> outboard.
>
>
>
> What it the best wick material for this?
>
>
>
> TIA
>
>
>
> Jim Hesketh
>
> Whisper C&C 26
>
> Miami, FL
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Re: Stus-List Below Deck Handhold Plating/Powder Coating.

[John Read via CnC-List]

Hi John. Did mine by sanding and Rustoleum spray. Works great and looks
great many years later. Cheers John Read

On Mon, Apr 27, 2020, 6:18 PM John McCrea via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Rob. I found a place in R.I. that specializes in marine plating.
>
> Sent
>
> > On Apr 27, 2020, at 5:48 PM, Rob Ball  wrote:
> >
> > John,
> >
> > Be careful of powder-coating. . . . .
> > I had my corner castings done and they came out as a pile of sand - the
> heat destroyed that particular aluminum . . . .
> >
> > Cheers,   Rob Ball  C&C 34
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: John McCrea 
> > Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 12:14 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: Stus-List Below Deck Handhold Plating/Powder Coating.
> >
> > All,
> >
> > A friend of mine had a 38 Mk 111 and had all of the below deck handholds
> on the cabinets, chart table and dining table plated in chrome. They really
> brightened up the boat. He has passed, so I am not able to find out where
> he had them done.
> >
> > I have mine off as we are redoing the table in all teak veneer vs the
> white.
> > They are the old dark brown paint and need updating. So thinking about
> either plating or powder coating. So far I have gotten some quotes ranging
> from 65 to 120 each. Searching out some RI companies now as it has a ton of
> costume jewelry industry. Wondering if anyone has done anything similar?
> > Thanks!
> >
> > John McCrea
> > Talisman
> > 1979 36-1
> > Mystic, CT
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> > Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 12:00 PM
> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> > Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 96
> >
> > Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> >cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >
> > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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> > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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> >
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> >
> > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
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> >
> >
> >
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Spinnaker for C&C 35 Mk I

[John Read via CnC-List]

Have tired but usable from our 34.  Free for shipping and donation to Stu.
Noank CT. John Read

On Tue, Sep 3, 2019, 10:25 AM Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> The 47 year old delivery spinnaker I bought several years ago (I believe
> from Dennis) finally powdered in an epic explosion last Wednesday.  There
> is not enough sail tape in the world to fix it.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have a used spinnaker for a C&C 35 Mk I that they want to
> sell.  My crew is not ready (nor is my wife) for a new spinnaker purchase.
>
>
>
> Happy to discuss offline.  Thanks.
>
>
> --
>
> *Glen Eddie*
>
> Tel:  416-777-5357
>
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>
> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>
> VCard 
>
> *Torkin Manes LLP*
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
> torkinmanes.com 
>
> An international member of Ally Law
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
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Re: Stus-List Knot meter - worth replacing?

[John Read via CnC-List]

Virtually all transducers are made by Airmar. Their website has a complete
cross reference section
John Read

On Tue, Apr 30, 2019, 11:31 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The 35-2 has an original (I think) B&G knot meter, but the paddle wheel
> has one paddle broken off from a lifting strap. Apparently this old sender
> is no longer available. Is it worth getting a replacement knot meter to get
> speed over water? The boat also comes with a B&G H1000 windex and several
> extra display units. Possibly I could find a knot meter sending unit to
> work with these?
>
> Or should I knot bother and just settle for GPS speed?
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Standard Horizon speed / depth / wind system

[John Read via CnC-List]

Not sure. Came with the boat when we bought her 20 years ago. John

On Tue, Jan 8, 2019, 11:35 AM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> How old is this Standard Horizon system John
> Wade
> Oh Boy C&C 33 MKII
> Lake of the Woods
>
> On Mon, Jan 7, 2019, 21:09 John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
>> Santa was very nice to me this year (many thanks Fred for all your help)
>> so am selling our old system.  Details are at
>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Standard-Horizon-Wind-Speed-Depth-System-100-150-series/292908919859
>>
>>
>>
>> Great for an economical starter system or parts for an existing system
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> John and Maryann
>>
>> Legacy III
>>
>> 1982 C&C 34
>>
>> Noank, CT
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