Stus-List Bilge Pump Replacement
https://www.marineengine.com/boat-accessories/plumbing/gulper-320-shower-bilge-waste-pump-whale-water-systems.php?msclkid=c321d1f6c67411f652dcb56da39db79b The actual pump doesn't need to be in the bilge, just the end of the suction hose. I have mine mounted on wood pads I epoxied to the hull under the floor boards. 5 GPM. It will run dry and dry prime. It will also pass trash like paper pulp and bilge mung. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
Please remind us what engine you have. Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Dead Battery Charger
This is a long one. Buckle up. On my 37+, it came with 2 4Ds in the stbd settee forward of the sink. They were dead at purchase. To install and replace I had to remove the entire settee...which included removing the table. That area had been glassed in such that it made a water tight catchment so in the event of spilled acid it would be contained during all points of heel save for a full knockdown or roll. Upon purchase I replaced the 4Ds with 3 group 27 - on the House #1 switch and 2 group 29s on house #2. They were the only available marine deep cycle batteries I could source on short notice in Brooklyn NY. I flattened copper pipe to create a bus bar witch bolted the 3 house #1 batteries in parallel. The boat also came with a Xantrex TrueCharge 40 which had evidently failed and lead to the demise of the 4Ds over winter. I replaced the original Xantrex with a larger Xantrex TrueCharge 60. It had 2 charging channels which was convienient for charging the 2 house banks. The NEW 60 amp charger didn't make it past the 350 mile delivery trip before failing as well. I promptly returned under warranty and replaced with a ProMariner ProNautic P1260. I've been very satisfied with it. My only complaint is that the remote display does not allow control, only observation. Generally this fine but in order to initiate an equalize charge you need to access the charger directly. I successfully mounted to charger to the back of the nav station drawers. The location works great accept for the formerly mentioned need to access for equalization. It has 3 channels of which I only use 2 but leaves room for an additional start battery. In 12 years of service this charger has never left me down in any way. In 2016 the NEW deep cycle marine batteries I'd originally sourced from Auto Zone began to fail. I finally had time and money to properly source batteries. I modified the previously glassed battery box under the settee to fit four 6v golf cart batteries. I got Trojan T105-RE. The RE is specifically designed for solar/wind generation storage systems. Each one has about 225Ahrs so a bank of 4 arranged (series/parallel) to produce 12v results in 450 Ahrs of storage. I bought the watering system to go with it so as to monitor water level and simplify watering when needed. I wanted batteries with flush bolt down terminals but ended up with an upright bolt terminals. This ended up requiring a 1x2 wood shim around the perimeter of the settee bench to add the required height to accommodate the terminals and bus bars. I've later added 200w of flexible solar and two 8amp Genesun MPPT controllers. I typically get ~70 Ahrs per day of charge. More information available upon request. Recall that the max charging rate of a standard lead acid battery is 25% of C. C being the AHr capacity of the battery or bank in question. So my 450AHr bank should be limited to 110 AHrs max charge capacity. 60amps is well within that limit. In your case, if you stuck with the 2 group 27s then you'd be at about 200AHrs so a 50amp charger would be your max. Its easy to think that you have no need to charge at 50amps but consider the following. Discharging your battery(bank) below 50% should be avoided to ensure maximum life span - So 100 AHrs. The max charge rate only applies until the 80% when the absorption phase begins and the rate tapers off logarithmically from 80% to100%. With a 20 amp charger you'll be at max rate for 3 hours (60AHrs) and then a tapering rate for roughly the next 3 to 4 hours. If your cruising needs are met by the 100AHr limit and 7 hour charge time then stay with what you have. If not then you'll want to step it up. On our boat we can charge rapidly enough (with the upgraded alternator - 90 Amps - and the 30 to 60 minutes of motoring on and off the hook morning and night) to be limited in our range not by the electrical supply but rather the fresh water supply. I can usually stretch the tanks 4 to 5 days with showers for 2 adults each day. As others have said, you need to consider what type of sailing/cruising you plan to do. If the setup you have has been filling the need adequately then I would be hesitant to deviate too much. In that case, my simplest and cheapest advice is to replace the charger with a ProMariner pNautic 1220. Sterling makes an exact match. Feel free to price check between the two. ProMariner 63120 ProNauticP Series 1220P - 12 Volt, 20 Amp Battery Charger https://a.co/d/amg8SKZ Sterling Power ProCharge Ultra On-Board 3-Bank All-Digital Marine Battery Charger - 90-270 Volt AC Input for Worldwide Usage - 4-Stage Charging to Protect Your Boat or RV Battery - 5 Year Warranty https://a.co/d/15sgdKj All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
Stus-List Re: v-belt tensioning tool
Its called a belt jack. https://a.co/d/4EN0JIj I originally got mine from my Dad. Never knew where he got it. I assume some auto parts store. After tightening the belt on my Yanmar I proceeded to test start the the engine. An unusual and loud metallic sound ensued, upon which I immediately realized I had forgotten to remove the jack. Ugh! Well it broke the shoe off of one side of the jack and I was left searching for a replacement. Why google searches for "v-belt tension tool" don't work I have no idea. Google "belt jack" and it immediately comes up. I did repurchase and also found a welder friend to reattach the broken shoe. Now I have 2. Swing by Solomons, MD and we can arrange for something. All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 14, 2023 15:54:00 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List : > Hello, > > A while ago someone on this list talked about a simple (and inexpensive) tool > that could be used as the third hand when tensioning the V-belt. > > The normal problem is that you need, really, three hands: two to hold the > alternator in position, preferable with help of some lever, and the third to > tighten the bolt that holds it. That tool was supposed to allow the procedure > to be completed single-handedly. > > I think that the tool was from McMaster-Carr, or Harbor Freight, or some > similar outlet. > > I tried to find it searching through Google, but to no avail. In the end, I > used the 3rd and 4th hand (of a helpful friend), but I’d like to be able to > do it on my own. > > Could someone point me to this implement? > > Thanks > > Marek > > 1994 c270 ”Legato” > > Ottawa, ON > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Bulkhead tabbing 37/40
Tom Cotton was the owner of your boat who moved it from Solomons to Huntington. He wrote terribly disparaging things about the 37/40 (37+). Most if not all of the issues he described were either one off issues for Blue Pearl or owner error. The two things I distinctly recall him complaining about were the tabbing and the backstay attachment. I have been a part of this list for over 10 years and to my knowledge no other 37/40 owner has experienced either of those conditions - at least not in a problematic fashion. My deck squeaks on the starboard side but I can't really place it. I have assumed it was from the added cabinetry in the galley and never sought out the cause. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 6, 2023 18:35:04 rockland bazemore via CnC-List : > In heavy seas we're getting some movement and squeaking of the forward > bulkhead against the deck. This happens on the starboard side where there > seems to be no tabbing visible looking from within the closet.. On the port > side there is tabbing. Are the other 37/40's built this way? I may go ahead > and ad fioberglass tabbing there before we make our crossing back to the > states. > Thanks for any info you all have! > > -- > Rockland Bazemore > S/V Blue Pearl > C 37/40+ > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Battery equalization
Doug, you're welcome. I should have mentioned that equalizing voltage of 15.7v is creating bubbles of oxygen and hydrogen through electrolysis. These bubbles cause mixing of the electrolyte as they float to the surface. The mixing is reducing stratification of the electrolyte so that it is equal concentration throughout the cell. With AGM there is no free liquid to stratify. So not only does equalizing an AGM cause water to be lost and not replaced, but it is unnecessary and pointless as well. Josh Jan 4, 2023 16:44:43 Doug : > Thanks Josh. > > > > Doug Mountjoy > sv Rebecca Leah > C & C Landfall 39 > Port Orchard Yacht Club > > > > ---- Original message > From: Josh via CnC-List > Date: 1/4/23 15:22 (GMT-06:00) > To: Stus-List > Cc: Josh > Subject: Stus-List Re: Battery equalization > > Technically yes but the process causes off gassing which is why you always > water floaded cells before and after. AGM can't be watered and as such > equalizing will cause them to off gas but you'll have no recourse. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > Jan 4, 2023 16:10:41 Doug via CnC-List : > >> A fellow sailor and I are having a discussion about AGM batteries, and >> whether thy can be equalized or not. >> What does the collective brains Here say on the subject? >> >> >> >> Doug Mountjoy >> sv Rebecca Leah >> C & C Landfall 39 >> Port Orchard Yacht Club >> +1 253-208-1412 >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Battery equalization
Technically yes but the process causes off gassing which is why you always water floaded cells before and after. AGM can't be watered and as such equalizing will cause them to off gas but you'll have no recourse. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jan 4, 2023 16:10:41 Doug via CnC-List : > A fellow sailor and I are having a discussion about AGM batteries, and > whether thy can be equalized or not. > What does the collective brains Here say on the subject? > > > > Doug Mountjoy > sv Rebecca Leah > C & C Landfall 39 > Port Orchard Yacht Club > +1 253-208-1412 > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Battery question
A 600A-Hr battery needs a chargers that appropriately sized. You may find that you have difficulties completing the absorption phase if they are lead-acid/AGM. You may also find that a typical float charge or float charger is not high enough current for a bank that large. Not only should you not mix chemistries but also avoid mixing old and new cells. There is nothing wrong with making one big bank but keeping the 1-2-ALL switch gives you options too. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Dec 29, 2022 08:51:06 Doug via CnC-List : > I live aboard 8 months a year, the other 4 months all electric power is > turned off. The boat put away on the hard. I have 2 300 Ah house banks. They > are both in use all the time. Charging is accomplished by 440 watts of solar, > or the alternator. My start battery is only charged by the alternator or > battery charger on the rare occasions I'm plugged into shore power. The > alternator charges all batteries via a battery isolator. There is no other > connection between the house bank and start battery. > My question is why do I need 2 separate house banks? This thought all started > while trying to figure out the best way to keep the start battery charged in > the off season. > If I make one house bank, then I can use one of the old house bank battery > switches to combine all batteries when needed. > > Doug Mountjoy > sv Rebecca Leah > C & C Landfall 39 > Port Orchard Yacht Club > +1 253-208-1412 Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: charger/inverter
FWIW: I have had 2 bad experiences with modern Xantrex TrueCharge II chargers. One was 40 amps and I believe the second was 60 amps. I finally replaced them with a ProMariner Pro Nautic P1260. The charger has served me well in nearly every possible capacity. That experience has left a bad taste in my mouth with regard to modern Xantrex products. I would encourage anyone interested to investigate a Pro Mariner line of inverters. https://www.promariner.com/en/products/marine%20dc%20to%20ac%20power%20inverters Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Nov 18, 2022 13:09:37 Korbey Hunt via CnC-List : > I use an old fashioned stove top percolator for coffee on Darlin. I use a > Zero Water pitcher/ filter to remove any “tank” flavor from the water. It > will deliver water with less than 5 ppm dissolved solids for a $35 > investment. Works great! I am based in Seattle and appreciate good coffee. > A paper filter added to the bottom of the basket keeps the grounds out of the > cup. Wonderful, just set the percolator on medium heat when you get up. It > is ready after you take a potty break and brush your teeth. > > Sent from Mail[https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986] for Windows > > *Sent: *Friday, November 18, 2022 10:55 AM > *To: *Stus-List[cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > *Cc: *Hoyt, Mike[mike.h...@impgroup.com] > *Subject: *Stus-List Re: charger/inverter > > Thanks Chuck > > On Persistence we simply boil the water and use a French press for coffee. > The Vigil Shorepower brand inverter that was listed as tested and working on > our pre--purchase survey in 2014 never has worked for us. I have a small > sine-wave inverter mounted under the chart table that we use for the odd 110v > needs (charging and computers). > > We recently purchased a WolfPup 16PF travel trailer for something of a > change. It has no inverter and I am considering installing one. Also have a > 1200w inverter generator (also too small for Keurig). The inverter would > mainly be just to run a tv and such. Am thinking of replacing the > “converter” with a Converter/inverter (I know Renogy makes a bunch of those > as does Xantrex). I am constantly amazed at the difference in quality > between a boat and a trailer. However they are quite similar in many ways > > Mike > > *From:* Novabraid via CnC-List > *Sent:* November 18, 2022 1:44 PM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* csgilchr...@comcast.net > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: charger/inverter > > Mike, > > I haven’t found it to be a big issue, although I’m running the Keurig either > at anchor or on a mooring and not while I’m running a whole lot of other > devices such as radar/chartplotter. 12V Adler Barbour refrigerator adds > somewhat to the battery draw. The toaster oven is a different story as it is > rated at 1300w. That gets used very sparingly. Two series 31 batteries > (100amps each) hooked up to 2 100W solar panels helps refresh the system > rather quickly. > > I also tend to turn off various circuits when not in use (gray and fresh > water pump, radar, instruments, select lighting) that seems to help keep > battery charge levels manageable. > > Chuck Gilchrest > > 83’ Landfall 35 > > Padanaram, MA > > *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, November 18, 2022 12:14 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: charger/inverter > > Hi Chuck > > Will a 2000w inverter run a coffee machine such as Keurig which draws 600w? > How is this on the batteries? > > Thanks > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax, NS > > *From:* Novabraid via CnC-List > *Sent:* November 18, 2022 12:07 PM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* csgilchr...@comcast.net > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: charger/inverter > > Pete, > > I have a newer Xantrex 2000W inverter/charger that I use on my Landfall 35. > I have 2 type 31 lead acid house batteries. Because I’m on a mooring and run > 12v refrigeration, I’m also using 2 100w solar panels mounted on the bimini. > > But with regards to the Xantrex inverter/charger, when we cruise, my wife > likes to use her single cup Keurig coffee maker and we also have an older > Black and Decker toaster oven on board. We don’t run both at the same time, > but we’ve never seen huge draw from the batteries afterwards. > > Overall, I’m pretty happy with it. We have used the charger function when > the boat is on the hard for the winter and can plug into “shore power” using > 110V adapter on the shore power cable.. > > Chuck Gilchrest > > 1983 Landfall 35 > > Padanaram, MA > > *From:* pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, November 18, 2022 10:38 AM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* pete.shelqu...@comcast.net > *Subject:* Stus-List charger/inverter > > I am looking to update my shore power charger and considering > charger/inverter with lithium batt capabilities. > > There are lots of manufacturers out there. Can anyone provide reliable > resources to
Stus-List Re: C 37+ Edson chain and wire spec
There aren't too many options. Measure the height of the pedestal, the length to the quadrant, and half the circumference of the quadrant, add them together and you should be close enough to eliminate all the other options. Its actually a shame cause Rob Ball worked there until he died recently. Looking on the website all the chain is the same size. I believe the cable is 1/4 inch (you can easily confirm by removing the deck plate and measuring). That leaves 2 options, the 9 foot cable length and the 27 foot cable length. There is absolutely no way it is 27 ft. Verify the cable diameter and you should be good with part number 774-2B2D9. https://edsonmarine.com/content/Edson_K37B%20%28Printable%29%20SMALL-Website-sm.pdf All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37± Solomons, MD Oct 24, 2022 16:27:43 Mark Baldridge via CnC-List : > Hi, > > It's time to replace the steering cable on my C+ > > I called Edson and they do not have the specs for the 37+. They said to find > the chain length and wire length and diameter in order to pick the right kit. > > I would like to have the new part in hand before I pull out the old one. Does > anyone know the dimensions or correct kit to buy for my boat? > > Thanks, > Mark Baldridge > ~~~_/) > '89 C 37+ #30 "The Edge" > Surf City, NC
Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
You can come borrow my torque multiplier. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n6B0IPKQERc Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Sep 5, 2022 14:09:28 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List : > Those sizes are correct – thanks! > > I don’t have a torque wrench that big, so I have them “tight”. I just ordered > this thing, so I can set them exactly: > > https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009GLITFW?psc=1=ATVPDKIKX0DER_=chk_typ_imgToDp > > Joe Della Barba > > Coquina C 35 MK I > > Kent Island MD USA > > *From:* Thomas Delaney via CnC-List > *Sent:* Sunday, August 28, 2022 10:08 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com; Thomas Delaney > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts > > Hi Joe, > > I believe it is 1 1/8" for the front-most nut and 1 1/2" for the rest. > > Best, > > Tom >
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries
Yes technically you're losing capacity but when you figure that with a standard lead acid is best to avoid discharge below 50% to prevent damage - the lithium actually gives you more USABLE capacity. Of course you have the lighter weight and higher charge rate of the lithium as additional advantages. Maine sailor did an article regarding the orientation of flooded cells on a sailboat. He showed how the heel can uncover cell plates depending on the fore/aft vs port/stbd orientation. He also found that all orientations were equally bad with either the 4D or 8D batteries (I can't recall which). The point is that that is another often overlooked advantage of AGM and lithium - they can't be damaged by uncovering the cell plates. The biggest disadvantage of lithium for me is the upfront cost which includes converting all charge sources (shore charger, alternator, and solar) to lithium. Some of the manufacturers (Valance as just one example) have a BSM that makes it mimick a 12v lead acid so converting the charge sources is unnecessary. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jul 28, 2022 15:36:53 Bill Coleman via CnC-List : > Oh! > For some reason, I thought Ah were constant, regardless of voltage - I guess > maybe that is Kilowatts - > So with a 200 Ah Lifepo battery vs a 255 AGM, looks like I will lose some > capacity, unless that is made up with efficiency from the Lithium - . > Does that make sense? > > Thanks Joe. > > Bill Coleman > > On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:40 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > wrote: >> >> A 100 AH 24 volt battery and a 200 AH 12 volt battery hold the same amount >> of power. >> >> Assuming they are using 100 AH cells, the 12 volt will have 2 sets of 4 in >> series in the case that are then in parallel and the 24 volt version will >> have all 8 in series. You could literally open the case and change a 12 to a >> 24 volt or back again, BMS issues aside. >> >> Don’t forget the lithium batteries in a standard-size case may not be using >> all the real estate inside that case either, it isn’t like lead-acid where a >> certain capacity means a certain size. >> >> >> >> */Joe Della Barba/* >> >> Coquina >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Wednesday, July 27, 2022 2:33 PM >> *To:* Stus-List >> *Cc:* Bill Coleman >> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Lithium Batteries >> >> >> >> These are confusing, they have a 24 V that looks similar in size to the >> lifeline 8D, but the 8D is 255 Ah, and the >> >> >> *_SOK 24V 100Ah LiFePO4 >> Battery[https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-24v-100ah-lifepo4-battery]_* >> >> >> >> is only 100 Ah - are they supposed to be equal, even with that disparity? >> >> >> >> Blil Coleman >> >> Entrada Erie PA >> >> >> >> On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 4:45 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> I think I am going to get 2 of these: >> >> https://www.us.sokbattery.com/product-page/sok-12v100ah-lifepo4-battery >> >> >> >> Advantages I see: >> 1. >> Two of them means a dead BMS only takes half the bank offline, not 100% of your power. 2. >> They have heaters for the very rare times the cabin might be below freezing. 3. >> They have Bluetooth for access to the BMS. 4. >> I saved the best for last, if the BMS craps out or you just want a better one, just open it up and replace it! This is NOT possible with most batteries unless you cut them apart. 5. >> See 4, a dead cell can be replaced. >> >> >> >> Joe Della Barba >> >> Coquina C 35 MK I >> >> Kent Island MD USA >> >> >> >> >>
Stus-List Re: Non- Gooey VHF handheld
I think it is but that's just my opinion. Naphtha seems to cut wax way better and evaporates completely. I use it to clean up bees wax after rendering, removing adhesive labels from jars, and removing electrical tape residue. When I rebedded a deck fitting the naphtha cut the butyl nicely. Recently I had a Nikon pocket camera that had a rubberized finish. The camera had been stored for a while and the rubberized surface broke down to a gooey mess. I used a rag and naphtha to clean it up. YMMV Josh Jul 15, 2022 18:46:34 CHARLES SCHEAFFER : > Mineral spirits has been my "go-to" for vinyl and plastics. Is Naptha > thinner better? > > Chuck S > On 07/15/2022 4:25 PM Josh via CnC-List wrote: > > > I've had all manner of rubberized electronics do this. I have had pretty > good luck using Naphtha thinner to clean up the goo. It leaves a raw plastic > finish with no residue. Might take some elbow grease but saving a $100 or > $200 dollar radio seems worth it. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > Jul 14, 2022 16:02:43 Bill Coleman via CnC-List : > > I am afraid I'm going to have to ditch my standard horizon 850 handheld. It > has gotten so gooey, I can't stand to touch it, not to mention any place I > leave it, it leaves gooey stuff. I blame the company for outsourcing to > China. I wonder if anybody has a handheld that they feel the rubber is of a > decent quality that it won't go to hell in a hand basket in a few years? I'm > kind of looking for a mid-grade, maybe like an Icon m73 plus? I like the idea > of being able to repeat the last minute of audio, as I have gotten so > accustomed to backing up on my TV when I can't hear something clearly. > > Bill Coleman > Entrada Erie PA >
Stus-List Re: Non- Gooey VHF handheld
I've had all manner of rubberized electronics do this. I have had pretty good luck using Naphtha thinner to clean up the goo. It leaves a raw plastic finish with no residue. Might take some elbow grease but saving a $100 or $200 dollar radio seems worth it. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jul 14, 2022 16:02:43 Bill Coleman via CnC-List : > I am afraid I'm going to have to ditch my standard horizon 850 handheld. It > has gotten so gooey, I can't stand to touch it, not to mention any place I > leave it, it leaves gooey stuff. I blame the company for outsourcing to > China. I wonder if anybody has a handheld that they feel the rubber is of a > decent quality that it won't go to hell in a hand basket in a few years? I'm > kind of looking for a mid-grade, maybe like an Icon m73 plus? I like the idea > of being able to repeat the last minute of audio, as I have gotten so > accustomed to backing up on my TV when I can't hear something clearly. > > Bill Coleman > Entrada Erie PA >>
Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet
Here's my setup. Should be adaptable. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNUGnNAGsDo Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jul 15, 2022 11:39:33 Bill Coleman via CnC-List : > Josh has an amazing mainsheet setup, I thought I bookmarked it, but can't > find it. > I think if you are not racing a 4:1 would work, just feather up and pull. > > Bill Coleman > Entrada, Erie PA > > > On Fri, Jul 15, 2022 at 11:13 AM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > wrote: >> >> Has anyone changed their 35 to a multi-part tackle and cam cleat that you >> operate from the traveler back at the helm instead of the stock system that >> runs a line up to the mast and back to a cabin top winch? >> Would 4:1 be enough or would 6:1 be better? >> >> My preventer is a pretty big 4 part and cam cleat setup, it just about looks >> like it could do the job. >> >> >> >> >> >> Joe Della Barba >> >> Coquina C 35 MK I >> >> Kent Island MD USA >> >> >> >> >>
Stus-List Re: biodegradable hydraulic fluid
I'm not sure being biodegradable makes it an upgrade. When I was getting Lew Townsend's input, as I recall he had said to use an oil that was ISO 32 synthetic. I use Amsoil where I can in all my equipment. Amsoil didn't specifically have a hydraulic fluid labeled as ISO 32 but working with their technical service rep they found a product that was close (enough for me). It's their multi vehicle synthetic power steering fluid. https://www.amsoil.com/p/multi-vehicle-synthetic-power-steering-fluid-psf/ There are environmentally critical applications where the use of biodegradable fluid might be important. Large quantity of oil, high pressure, continuous pump, hidden pipes/fittings where leaks would be hard to detect, used in marine habitats like aquariums and live tanks - just a few examples. I remember an episode of Deadliest Catch where a hydraulic line that passed through a crab tank began leaking. They pumped oil into that tank for hours! The captain was quite concerned about losing the crab. For us, the overall quantity of oil is relatively small and since the pump is manual, a leak is only enough quantity to release the pressure - a few ounces at most. If a fitting ruptured we'd know it immediately. Most of our leaks amount to some weapage around the piston shaft. We generally care about it more because of the gelcoat stain than because of the environmental impact...I'm not sure those type of leaks ever even make it to the environment. I remember seeing a JP5 hose rupture during an underway replenishment. Each one of those four hoses had to be at least 4 inches in diameter and the offload was supposed to be multiple tens of thousands of gallons. It seemed like an eternity before someone who knew what to do took action to stop the fountain of jet diesel that was being discharged directly into the Atlantic. Where I work, we have equipment with massive drive chains that rotate deep into the bay water. 24 of these units run periodically throughout the day every day of the year. Weekly maintenance amounts to using what looks like a carwash brush and mop bucket to slop grease on the chains as they rotate. It would appear as though the chains have never been greased let alone greased only a week ago. I've been told the grease is environmentally approved (whatever that means) but it looks like any standard moly grease I've ever seen. Just a few examples which give perspective to being environmentally conscious. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jul 9, 2022 13:33:22 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List : > Anyone switched to biodegradable hydraulic fluid? > > I have a Navtec hydraulic backstay adjuster in the shop for new seals and > thinking of upgrading the fluid. > > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R >
Stus-List Re: Adding a second house battery
If your desire is to stick with a flooded lead acid style (of which I am still a fan and would help keep this project simple and cheap) then the response of others is perfectly accurate. Consider and recall a few things about this tried and true battery technology. 1 - Fully charged, no load voltage, with residual surface charge removed of a typical 12v, BCI group 27 battery is 12.7 V. State or charge (SOC) = 100% 2 - The same battery is considered to be fully discharged (SOC =0%) when its voltage equals 10.5 V 3 - The discharge curve is relatively straight so we can use a voltage meter to determine a battery's SOC. 12.7 - 10.5 = 2.2v over the entire 100% range. So 0.022 volts (no load) per percent discharged from the battery. 4 - To prevent damage and maintain the highest number of years of service life from your investment, discharging a battery below 50% should be avoided. Meaning that a voltage below 11.6v should be established as a critically low SOC. 5 - Changing is not so linear. Up to about 80% the rate at which the battery will accept charge power is linear. After that, the rate tapers assuming your charger is matched to charge at the maximum appropriate rate. Getting beyond 80% takes longer and is far less critical to maintaining battery health than staying above 50% 6 - The maximum rate of charge is determined by taking 30% of the amp hour capacity. For easy math let's assume your group 27 battery has 100 A-Hr of capacity. That means you should limit the charge current to 30 amps. Conveniently enough for math sake, this means that charging the battery from 50% to 80% (30 A-Hrs) can be achieved in 1 hour with an appropriately matched charger. So, since you didn't tell us what your charger current capacity is or how much time you have to charge or how low you currently discharge a single battery or your current AHr usage, there are many options that may make your upgrade more useful and efficient. Provide those details and I'll be glad to noddle through it with you. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jul 4, 2022 09:41:57 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List : > Actually is for an RV but I can think of no better place to get answer to > this type of question than this list. > > Came with one group 27 deep cycle battery. Wish to add a second and have > been told that nothing needs to change re the charging systems, etc … What > is involved in adding a second group 27 battery? > > Thanks > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax, NS >
Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF
Amsoil has some pretty interesting resources regarding "high flow" air filters. They sat that some very high percentage of wear occurs as a result of particles smaller than 5 microns. Well if you oil filter only gets brtween 10 and 20 microns then what is one to do? Additionally were would particles that small come from? Their answer is that they come from the air and that preventing the intake of those particles is critical to keeping them out of the engine oil. Of course they sell air filters that filter below the 5 micron size but of note is their statement that filters like K are capable of achieving high flow due to their large media pore size. In fact its not really media at all but rather a cotton gause which often relies on a sticky oil to catch the dirt. I'll see if I can find the publication. It was enough for me to stop using K and instead look for oversized options with small micron ratings. Of course anything is better than the Yanmar sponge...or worse a yanmar sponge disintegrating into the engine. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jun 30, 2022 07:53:34 John Irvin via CnC-List : > Have used K in my vehicles for decades. Very satisfied. Should work in > boats. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 29, 2022, at 9:31 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote: > > > > We have met the enemy, and he is us! Lol > > Mine also disintegrated, and the particles were ingested by the engine. > Seems a bit ironic for an air filter to expire this way, though oddly just > for failing to replace it. > > You too were punished. Karma. > > > > Glad it worked out. > > > > Dave > > > > > Sent from > Mail[https://nam12.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fgo.microsoft.com%2Ffwlink%2F%3FLinkId%3D550986=05%7C01%7C%7C042808cf6ecf40ae06a908da5a3848b7%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637921495026483917%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C=MYgkeIs0%2FcluqOadNRcsJVXbPpzeRje7bPp5lGSeHPA%3D=0] > for Windows > > > *From: *Robert Abbott[robertabb...@eastlink.ca] > *Sent: *June 29, 2022 6:18 PM > *To: *Stus-List[cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > *Cc: *Dave S[syerd...@gmail.com] > *Subject: *Yanmar 2 GMF > > > Dave, > > The truth be known, genius here 2 or 3 years ago took the old filter out and > it had pretty much had been disintegratednot having a new Yanmar air > filter, but the old metal ring, I took a piece of a sponge and cut it to fit > into the metal ring and thought it was all O.K. The sponge will filter the > air. Right? > > Well no, it did work for a while but a genuine Yanmar air filter works > better.as I found out. > > There, I confessedit was me that caused the problem. The new Yanmar air > filter cost $45 here which seems like a lot for a simple device. But $45 is > not a lot when the pain, angst, and disruption of one's sailing season is in > jeopardy. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. > > > On 2022-06-29 2:06 p.m., Dave S via CnC-List wrote: > > Good to hear. How the heck did the old one get that clogged? Bad decade > for mosquitoes? > > > > Dave > > > > > > On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List > wrote: > > > While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to > addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of > something. I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last > year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out > the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the > engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward > gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine > off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should. > > The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming > fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke. > > Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause > of my engine issue. > > Going for a sail tomorrow. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. > > > >
Stus-List Re: diesel engine air filter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-GI38vE4hQ In the first minute of the video you'll see my solution for high flow AND high efficiency air filter at a reasonable price...well maybe not reasonable - $48.98!!! AEM 21-2201DK DryFlow Air Filter https://a.co/d/i5pGWhj Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jun 29, 2022 16:52:12 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List : > Hey guys, > > A new air filter for my Universal M4-30 cost $17 and which seems expensive > for a simple ring of foam rubber sown like a bracelet. I removed the old oil > caked foam from the little screen and cleaned it up with solvent before > installing the new one and had to flatten the venturi to get a good fit. The > parts guy said it was more of a silencer than a filter. Anybody know of a > better air filter for a diesel engine like mine? > > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R > On 06/29/2022 2:10 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List wrote: > > > Good to know. Ill check my 30 hp Yanmar. Last sumner running at WOT for 1/2 > hour the motor shut down. It restarted easily and ran fine. I cleaned the > fuel strainer but found no issues. Ill replace the air filter. > > Get Outlook for Android[https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg] > > *From:* Dave S via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2022 10:06:46 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Dave S > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF > > Good to hear. How the heck did the old one get that clogged? Bad decade > for mosquitoes? > > Dave > > > > On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List > wrote: > > While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to > addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of > something. I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last > year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out > the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the > engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward > gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine > off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should. > > The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming > fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke. > > Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause > of my engine issue. > > Going for a sail tomorrow. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. >
Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF
You should also try to rev the engine with it out of gear. If it has the same problem of reaching full RPM then fuel and air delivery are nearly to only possible culprits. A bad or weak governor spring would be indicated by an engine that has a tendency to over speed or hunt. Pulling the throttle faster applies pressure to open the fuel rack and provide more fuel. More fuel create more RPM and the governor the creates a feedback force that resists the fuel rack. The governor tries to slow the engine whereas the throttle tries to speed it up. Without the governor the engine will tend to race, have high RPM, limited throttle control, and is lively to overspreed. When you get to 2100 RPM do you get heave black smoke? If you do the engine is getting plenty of fuel but not enough air. Have you checked or simply removed the air cleaner? When was the last time the backlash was checked on the lifters. I can walk you through it if you don't know. If you're not getting black smoke, are you getting any change in smoke? Are you getting a correlating loss of power or stumbling? Or is it just not going faster? Was it not able to push the boat at normal full speed. Are you confident in the accuracy of the RPM gage. You can get a laser tach from Amazon for less than $20 to confirm the RPM. As the high pressure fuel pump and fuel injectors age they have springs that get weak. Weak pump springs will allow the tappets to "float" and not achieve a full intake stroke of fuelcausing a low fuel condition resulting in lower RPM. If the injectors are dirty or have weak springs they won't achieve full fuel pressure before injection and may even leak a small amount into the cylinder before TDC. This is probably good more likely to cause detonation (ping or knock), not exacly low RPM but none the less is sub optimum operation. Have you checked the oil for fuel dilution? The fuel lift pump is driven off a cam and if the diaphragm cracks or tears it will leak fuel into the crank case. This may also let crankcase pressure into the high pressure fuel pump...reducing fuel delivery and RPM. Pull the dip stick, drop some oil on a paper towel. Smell it for diesel smell. Wait and observe for a halo. Especially if you have red diesel the halo is seen as the clearish red halo around the black oil spot. If all of that checks. Then you need to get a little more invasive. A compression check is in order. I can walk you through it and provide parts(tools). It is definitely doable as DIY but you got some investigation to do first. Let me know. Reach out with a PM and we can talk. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List : > > Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out heading > into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found the engine > wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed to be > that complicated but they are to me. I wouldn't know where to start to > trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it this week. I spoke to > him and told him the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine > not getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I had the > bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters replaced. He thinks > one or both of the filters are restricting the fuel flow.I hope he is > right but I don't think so. > > Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc. > the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat > > Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. >
Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF
Is the bottom and prop clean? Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List : > > Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out heading > into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found the engine > wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed to be > that complicated but they are to me. I wouldn't know where to start to > trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it this week. I spoke to > him and told him the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine > not getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I had the > bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters replaced. He thinks > one or both of the filters are restricting the fuel flow.I hope he is > right but I don't think so. > > Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc. > the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat > > Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. >
Stus-List Re: Reefing lines
Bill, It looks like you may have accidentally responded "off list" but I'm responding back "on list". For ease of identification all of the lines associated with main sail control have a green scheme. I have 12 clutches on the cabin top (2 reefs, an outhaul, a cunningham, a mainsheet course adjust, a vang, a main sail halyard, a head sail halyard, 2 spin halyards, a pole topping lift, and finally a baby stay adjustment). By my count that's 7 of the 12 that are for mainsail control and the rest generally stay in a set it and forget it position. As a rule of thumb all of my main sail control clutches are open (except for the halyard) when raising the mainsail. This ensures that the entire sail and boom are free to move as needed while hoisting the sail. It's pretty easy to look for ANY green scheme line and open the clutch. Except for the halyard which is also easily identified as the solitary solid green color. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jun 19, 2022 13:50:19 Bill Coleman : > Oh yeah. The Vang. The damn Vang I always forget. The main sheet- ANd the > Vang. Thank you for bringing that up. Josh. > > Bill Coleman > > On Sun, Jun 19, 2022, 10:05 Josh wrote: >> In my experience, Bill nailed the problem and solution. A polished crew >> will make the evolution look a whole lot cleaner and faster but much like >> raising the main with no reef, the boom has to be allowed to rise up to >> match the line drawn between the tack and the clew and at the Sam angle to >> which the sail was cut. Stop thinking of it as pulling the reef point down >> but rather pulling the boom up. As a new sailor I regularly fought to get a >> full hoist on an unreefed sail because I wasn't allowing the boom to lift. >> In my case it was often the vang which may have started loose on the >> previous boom operation but was now bar tight. In my ignorance I would ease >> the mainsheet even to the point of flogging the sail and still not be able >> to get a full hoist. This error is seen by looking at the leach edge and >> looking for it being tight as compared to the luff edge. In the case of >> setting a reef the leach edge below the reef will naturally be loose but >> looking above the reef point the leach is TIGHT and the luff may still be >> loose too. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> Jun 18, 2022 19:46:51 Bill Coleman via CnC-List : >> >>> I have always found that tough to do as well, the initial tightening of the >>> reefine. >>> >>> And sometimes, I still forget this, but once I just let the main sheet >>> free, I let the boom go where it wants, I can just tighten up. The boom >>> always ends up higher than you're used to, so I think there's a tendency to >>> have it down too low and try and tighten the main clew where it cannot go. >>> I don't tie it around the boom, though I have a padeye on the top of the >>> boom where the reeefine dead ends. My boat sails & looks better with the >>> number one reef oddly enough. And it is blowing cats off of roofs here as >>> well. Sitting at the dock with the boat laying at 10° >>> >>> Bill Coleman >>> Entrada Erie PA >>> >>> On Sat, Jun 18, 2022, 18:55 David Knecht via CnC-List >>> wrote: We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig their reefing lines. I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and reefing line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom. When I want to reef, I have generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and around the boom and tied it to the boom. I have found it to be really difficult to pull the new clew down and back to flatten the sail in both directions. It seems like it should work, but I am not sure if there is a better way. How do others rig for reefing? Dave S/V Aries 1990 C 34+ New London, CT
Stus-List Re: Reefing lines
In my experience, Bill nailed the problem and solution. A polished crew will make the evolution look a whole lot cleaner and faster but much like raising the main with no reef, the boom has to be allowed to rise up to match the line drawn between the tack and the clew and at the Sam angle to which the sail was cut. Stop thinking of it as pulling the reef point down but rather pulling the boom up. As a new sailor I regularly fought to get a full hoist on an unreefed sail because I wasn't allowing the boom to lift. In my case it was often the vang which may have started loose on the previous boom operation but was now bar tight. In my ignorance I would ease the mainsheet even to the point of flogging the sail and still not be able to get a full hoist. This error is seen by looking at the leach edge and looking for it being tight as compared to the luff edge. In the case of setting a reef the leach edge below the reef will naturally be loose but looking above the reef point the leach is TIGHT and the luff may still be loose too. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jun 18, 2022 19:46:51 Bill Coleman via CnC-List : > I have always found that tough to do as well, the initial tightening of the > reefine. > > And sometimes, I still forget this, but once I just let the main sheet free, > I let the boom go where it wants, I can just tighten up. The boom always ends > up higher than you're used to, so I think there's a tendency to have it down > too low and try and tighten the main clew where it cannot go. I don't tie it > around the boom, though I have a padeye on the top of the boom where the > reeefine dead ends. My boat sails & looks better with the number one reef > oddly enough. And it is blowing cats off of roofs here as well. Sitting at > the dock with the boat laying at 10° > > Bill Coleman > Entrada Erie PA > > On Sat, Jun 18, 2022, 18:55 David Knecht via CnC-List > wrote: >> We raced today in a real blow and I was reminded to ask how others rig their >> reefing lines. I have a single reef point in my main and outhaul and >> reefing line both exit the pulleys on the end of the boom. When I want to >> reef, I have generally run the reefing line up to the cringe, down and >> around the boom and tied it to the boom. I have found it to be really >> difficult to pull the new clew down and back to flatten the sail in both >> directions. It seems like it should work, but I am not sure if there is a >> better way. How do others rig for reefing? Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> [cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B] >>
Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
Your experience sounds exactly the same as mine. The use of the Alpine Butterfly has similar physics but allows for the use of a soft shackle which makes changing the headsail a possibility. Josh Jun 17, 2022 09:08:24 Nathan Post via CnC-List : > I found that the luggage tag approach (attached at the middle of a long > continuous sheet) works well for me. Of course that is only helpful if you > don't do headsail changes frequently or at all. If you have eye splices in > your sheets you could try luggage tagging each of them to the clew if the > grommet in the sail is large enough to do that. > > Nathan > > > On Fri, Jun 17, 2022 at 8:46 AM Matthew via CnC-List > wrote: >> >> Thanks, Josh. The photo shows a soft shackle tied to a genny sheet with a >> bowline (or what appears to be a bowline). How does this configuration >> solve the problem of the bowline getting hung up on stays when tacking a 150 >> genny? >> >> >> >> *From:* Josh via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Friday, June 17, 2022 1:44 AM >> *To:* Stus-List >> *Cc:* Josh >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds >> >> >> >> https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/ >> >> The alpine butterfly is the single best improvement for me. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1980 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> Jun 16, 2022 13:32:30 David Knecht via CnC-List : >> >>> What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet >>> attachment from catching on the shrouds during a tack? I use a dyneema >>> soft shackle to attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the >>> problem over knots. Thanks- Dave >>> >>> >>> >>> S/V Aries >>> >>> 1990 C 34+ >>> >>> New London, CT >>> >>> >>> [cid:18171c206904cff311] >>> >>> >>>
Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
It's not a bowline. It's an alpine butterfly. You have to see it in action to understand the physics but until then you're gonna have to take my word. Realize that the butterfly is made in the middle of a single line the halves of which are led aft as port and stbd sheets. The only best way I can explain it is that the working sheet pulls the butterfly in such away that it pivots to create a fairlead across the shrouds and stays. Josh Jun 17, 2022 08:46:30 Matthew via CnC-List : > Thanks, Josh. The photo shows a soft shackle tied to a genny sheet with a > bowline (or what appears to be a bowline). How does this configuration solve > the problem of the bowline getting hung up on stays when tacking a 150 genny? > > *From:* Josh via CnC-List > *Sent:* Friday, June 17, 2022 1:44 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Josh > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds > > https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/ > > The alpine butterfly is the single best improvement for me. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1980 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > Jun 16, 2022 13:32:30 David Knecht via CnC-List : > > What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment > from catching on the shrouds during a tack? I use a dyneema soft shackle to > attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over > knots. Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > > 1990 C 34+ > > New London, CT > > > [cid:image001.png@01D88226.AF188EE0] >
Stus-List Re: Genoa sheets catch on shrouds
https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/ The alpine butterfly is the single best improvement for me. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1980 C 37+ Solomons, MD Jun 16, 2022 13:32:30 David Knecht via CnC-List : > What have people found to be the best way to keep the genoa sheet attachment > from catching on the shrouds during a tack? I use a dyneema soft shackle to > attach the sheets to the clew, but that has not solved the problem over > knots. Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > [cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B] >
Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes
Thanks for the backup Joe but after seeing a more detailed description it sounds like the cable did not previously have a service disconnect to allow for removal of the mast from the boat. As described earlier by myself and followed by Andy Frame the use of a PL-259 connection on both cut ends joined together by a 238 barrel is probably the best choice. This will allow the mast to be more easily removed and installed in the future. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 29, 2022 9:43:06 AM j...@dellabarba.com: > THIS is the correct answer, he who cut it can fix it! > > Joe > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Saturday, May 28, 2022 10:47 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes > > Lots of options. You could terminate the 2 ends with the typical connectors > and then use a joiner. You could use you're splicer. Nothing will ever be > as good as the cable was before it was cut. I'd ask the yard to replace the > cable. Period. They broke it, they should fix it... Correctly. > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > On Sat, May 28, 2022, 12:07 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the mast > antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or 'splice' the > current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that claim to connect the > shield and the conductor without solder, etc. > > Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints on > how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense of > someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I figured it > was worth that much to give it a try. > > Thanks, > > Charlie Nelson > > Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb > > New Bern, NC > >
Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake
Maybe. I don't know. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 26, 2022 12:02:50 PM Neil Andersen : > Isn’t Log Pond affiliated with Havre de Grace Marina just above the bridge? > > Neil Andersen, W3NEA > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > 484-354-8800 > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, May 26, 2022 10:51:14 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake > > I don't know if Brian Fry is still on the list but he lives on his boat(S) > out of Havre De Grace. It is a bit of a stretch up the river but I imagine > the slips are pretty cost effective. I believe he's at Log Pond IIRC? It's > a marina tied to condos. Marine services are not their bread and butter so > if you're looking for full service you should probably look elsewhere but the > floating docks and break wall are certainly nice enough to store a boat for a > month. > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Thu, May 26, 2022, 10:19 Joel Aronson via CnC-List > wrote: >> Brian, >> >> I don't know how long you can leave a boat on a mooring in Annapolis, but a >> much cheaper option. Check with the harbormaster. There are several >> marinas just north of Annapolis in Whitehall Bay that will be cheaper if >> they have space. Or you can move north to the Magothy or Middle River. I >> can't recommend specific marinas, but the Waterway Guide should help you >> find the right place. >> >> Joel >> >> On Thu, May 26, 2022 at 10:12 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List >> wrote: >>> >>> All, >>> >>> We may need to leave a boat in the northern Chesapeake for a couple weeks >>> to a month this July. Can anybody recommend a marina with available slips >>> or moorings that might not break the bank for a transient? Do not need >>> lots of amenities and services [at least hope not.] Water and pump out, >>> clean fuel a plus. >>> >>> >>> >>> The plan would be to eventually head north through the C and on to NYC >>> and western LIS. Would also need to return a rental car and then a taxi or >>> Uber back to the yard prior to departing. Have looked at Jabin’s and Port >>> Annapolis, but might guess some other locations not in Annapolis might be >>> less, though maybe not. Harge’s or Herrington Harbor North would be making >>> a longer trip for the delivery, and do not appear to be relatively close to >>> a rental car return, though maybe taxis / Uber might not be too bad. >>> >>> >>> >>> Any suggestions? >>> >>> >>> >>> Thanks, >>> >>> Brian >>> >> >> >> -- >> Joel >>
Stus-List Re: 37/40 prop shaft.
Mine was short enough that it cleared the rudder. I just measured my old shaft and it came in just under 58 inches. Remember too that once the shaft is clear of the log that it can be articulated in the strut bearring if needed. A few degrees makes a huge difference at the tip of the shaft. I just did a whole new shaft, seal, coupler, and rebuilt prop so if you need or want any pointers just reach out. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 24, 2022 1:45:03 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List : > Al, > > No, it should be slightly offset so you can pull it. Depending on your prop, > however, you may need to remove that. > > All the best, > > Edd > > > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the Starship Enterprise > Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > > > > > > > > > > > On May 24, 2022, at 1:33 PM, Alan Liles via CnC-List > wrote: > > I want to replace my prop shaft due to wear at the packing. Does the rudder > need to be removed to get the shaft out on these boats? > > Cheers, Al >
