Stus-List Looking for a #3

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

If anyone knows of any used racing #3, or #2 for that matter, I’m in the market.
Looking to fit on a C 35 mk3.

FYI, I got local quotes last winter fort $4565 and $5275! The less expensive 
one we were talking vertical battens.  
Figured I would hardly ever need it but this season has seen a good deal of 
wind on the Hudson.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
1984 C 35-3
Nyack, NY
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Stu

Stus-List Looking for spinnaker for a 35 mk3

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I was wondering if anyone had a decent used or not so used light air spinnaker 
for C 35 mk3?

Also, I was wondering what people are paying for a new one?
Z-Sails in Stamford is quoting me $3950.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 mkIII
Nyack, NY 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I just got off with Atkins & Hoyle.

Really nice people, but a new hatch is $1775 US, which is so much pricier than 
a Lewmar.
He says I have to change the base to get a good seal, so my lazy approach of 
getting just a hatch that matches isn’t going to work.
I can’t get a repair as the hatch frame itself is cracked., otherwise a rebuild 
would have been a good way to go.

So what size Lewmar fits this cutout? I haven’t yet seen one that seems to 
match. 
And you’re in a MkI? I wonder if they are the same…

Matthew

> On May 5, 2020, at 9:17 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> By “drop in” I assume they mean the same size hole in the boat. I can’t 
> imagine a Lewmar hatch could be taken apart and combined with an A hatch to 
> make a hybrid.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com 
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of rjcasciato--- via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2020 8:43 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: rjcasci...@comcast.net 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII
>  
> Matthew, I would give Hatchmasters a call, they do amazing repairs and 
> reglazing on all brands.
> I would be surprised if they didn't have the part you're looking for.
> Tony used to be the sales guy; they are in Norwalk CT.
> Ron C.
> 
> 
> Sent from Xfinity Connect Application
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> 
> _ Thanks everyone for supporting this list 
> with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you 
> want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I was liking the idea of Lewmar. 

And I think the low profiles look great but I don’t see access from top side 
which the fore-deck guys likes to have to get spinnakers in and out easily 
without having to go below. 

When you say easy drop in on Lewmars, I assume I would need to rip out and 
replace the frame that attaches to the deck. I was thinking of trying to just 
change out the hatch first. A friend told me of his troubles trying to get the 
frame off the deck. If it’s a direct replacement the hinges would match? I 
don’t think I can do that with a Lewmar based on the diagrams I saw. My issue 
is the hatch itself, I suspect no water is coming in from the bottom frame.

I have a couple of emails into Atkins and Hoyle though I have not heard back 
yet. I’ll keep on them.

Again thanks to all. The collective wisdom is amazing.

M

> On Apr 28, 2020, at 2:19 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I replaced all the hatches on the boat with Lewmars. Saloon hatch and forward 
> hatch were drop-in replacements, the head hatch took a bit of glass work but 
> works fine.
> 
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
> 
> 
> On Mon, 27 Apr 2020 at 06:15, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Our 77 C had an Aitkens hatch, much better than the Bomar hatches 
> on our 85 33-ll, which have been replaced with Lewmar Ocean series hatches. 
> The angle of the forward hatch made the low profile hatches impractical, and 
> the raised Fiberglas either side made them unattractive.
> 
> I’d rate the A and Lewmar Ocean series comparable .
> 
> Paul
> From: CnC-List  <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
> CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Monday, April 27, 2020 8:33:21 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII
>  
> That is a handsome looking hatch.
> 
> How do you compare the overall quality compared to Atkins & Hoyle or Lewmar?
> 
>  
> Bill Coleman
> 
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Graham Collins via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 26, 2020 9:27 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Graham Collins
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII
> 
>  
> Hi Matthew
> 
> Atkins & Hoyle make the direct replacement, but there is an alternative - I 
> put on a low profile stainless hatch from these guys.  
> http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html  
>  <http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html>
> I'll look to see if I have any pics.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> On 2020-04-26 10:12 p.m., Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> Hello CnC list,
>  
> I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what kind and where I can find a 
> replacement for my forward hatch on a 1983 C 35 mkIII.
>  
> I am hoping I can just get a new hatch and use the existing frame, though I 
> assume it comes with a new frame as well just in case.
>  
> I measured the outer dimensions of the flanges on the frame at 20 7/8” 
> square, the outer dimensions of the hatch at ~21 13/16 square, and the inner 
> distance between the hinges on the hatch at 14 1/16”.
>  
> I thought this would use a Lewmar replacement but the dimensions don’t seem 
> to match.
>  
> Thanks in advance.
> This list is great, I wish I had more time to read it.
>  
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> 1983 C 35 mkIII
> Nyack NY
> ___
>  
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> ___
> 
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> 

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Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Hello CnC list,

I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what kind and where I can find a 
replacement for my forward hatch on a 1983 C 35 mkIII.

I am hoping I can just get a new hatch and use the existing frame, though I 
assume it comes with a new frame as well just in case.

I measured the outer dimensions of the flanges on the frame at 20 7/8” square, 
the outer dimensions of the hatch at ~21 13/16 square, and the inner distance 
between the hinges on the hatch at 14 1/16”.

I thought this would use a Lewmar replacement but the dimensions don’t seem to 
match.

Thanks in advance.
This list is great, I wish I had more time to read it.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
1983 C 35 mkIII
Nyack NY
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Re: Stus-List Looking for replacement part for spinnaker pole end coupling

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thanks to all that responded to this.
I ended up buying a replacement from RigRite.
Looks like a perfect match.

Matthew

> On Feb 15, 2020, at 1:42 PM, Matthew Schlanger  wrote:
> 
> In one of the last races of the last season we broke our spinnaker pole. The 
> nipple(?) that couples with the spinnaker’s mast car broke.
> I managed to remove the end of the pole (I don’t know what these parts are 
> called). Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? You can see a 
> picture of what I mean here:
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rwwRxqAeVFh5igTcyIijgqZa8lHkjse8/view?usp=sharing
> 
> This is for a 1983 C 35 MKIII.
> 
> By the way The Office did decently well last year. Second place over all on 
> Wednesday Nights, Hee Soo, also on this list earned first place. The race 
> that broke our pole was part of The Last Chance Regatta for HRYRA (Hudson 
> River Yacht Racing Association). We got a 3rd which is not bad. I think we 
> were the only one in our club who finished in the money for division 1. We 
> did pretty well just flying our #2 after the pole broke. Go figure. Well 
> there was a lot of wind.
> 
> I suspect the breakage just had to do with fatigue after 37 years. It is 
> aluminum after all. I can’t imagine what could have been binding on the cup, 
> if anything. We were in the process of winching in the guy to pull the pole 
> back for a deeper angle. It seems so odd that this broke.
> 
> Again, if anyone knows where to get a replacement it would be much 
> appreciated. 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> 1983 C 35 MKIII
> Nyack NY


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Re: Stus-List Looking for replacement part for spinnaker pole end coupling

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Sorry, You mean ID as in inner diameter.

No problem thanks.
I thought you meant a kind of model number.

Thanks again.

M


> On Feb 15, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Michael Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'd give Rig Rite a try:   
> https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spinnaker_Poles/Spinnaker_Poles_&_Parts.php 
> <https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spinnaker_Poles/Spinnaker_Poles_&_Parts.php>   
> You will need to know the ID of the pole.  
> 
> 
> 
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> 
> 
>> On Feb 15, 2020, at 1:42 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> In one of the last races of the last season we broke our spinnaker pole. The 
>> nipple(?) that couples with the spinnaker’s mast car broke.
>> I managed to remove the end of the pole (I don’t know what these parts are 
>> called). Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? You can see a 
>> picture of what I mean here:
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rwwRxqAeVFh5igTcyIijgqZa8lHkjse8/view?usp=sharing
>>  
>> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rwwRxqAeVFh5igTcyIijgqZa8lHkjse8/view?usp=sharing>
>> 
>> This is for a 1983 C 35 MKIII.
>> 
>> By the way The Office did decently well last year. Second place over all on 
>> Wednesday Nights, Hee Soo, also on this list earned first place. The race 
>> that broke our pole was part of The Last Chance Regatta for HRYRA (Hudson 
>> River Yacht Racing Association). We got a 3rd which is not bad. I think we 
>> were the only one in our club who finished in the money for division 1. We 
>> did pretty well just flying our #2 after the pole broke. Go figure. Well 
>> there was a lot of wind.
>> 
>> I suspect the breakage just had to do with fatigue after 37 years. It is 
>> aluminum after all. I can’t imagine what could have been binding on the cup, 
>> if anything. We were in the process of winching in the guy to pull the pole 
>> back for a deeper angle. It seems so odd that this broke.
>> 
>> Again, if anyone knows where to get a replacement it would be much 
>> appreciated. 
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> Matthew Schlanger
>> The Office
>> 1983 C 35 MKIII
>> Nyack NY
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Looking for replacement part for spinnaker pole end coupling

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

How do I find the pole ID?

Thanks

Matthew

> On Feb 15, 2020, at 2:21 PM, Michael Brannon via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'd give Rig Rite a try:   
> https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spinnaker_Poles/Spinnaker_Poles_&_Parts.php 
> <https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Spinnaker_Poles/Spinnaker_Poles_&_Parts.php>   
> You will need to know the ID of the pole.  
> 
> 
> 
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295
> C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
> 
> 
> 
>> On Feb 15, 2020, at 1:42 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> In one of the last races of the last season we broke our spinnaker pole. The 
>> nipple(?) that couples with the spinnaker’s mast car broke.
>> I managed to remove the end of the pole (I don’t know what these parts are 
>> called). Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? You can see a 
>> picture of what I mean here:
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rwwRxqAeVFh5igTcyIijgqZa8lHkjse8/view?usp=sharing
>>  
>> <https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rwwRxqAeVFh5igTcyIijgqZa8lHkjse8/view?usp=sharing>
>> 
>> This is for a 1983 C 35 MKIII.
>> 
>> By the way The Office did decently well last year. Second place over all on 
>> Wednesday Nights, Hee Soo, also on this list earned first place. The race 
>> that broke our pole was part of The Last Chance Regatta for HRYRA (Hudson 
>> River Yacht Racing Association). We got a 3rd which is not bad. I think we 
>> were the only one in our club who finished in the money for division 1. We 
>> did pretty well just flying our #2 after the pole broke. Go figure. Well 
>> there was a lot of wind.
>> 
>> I suspect the breakage just had to do with fatigue after 37 years. It is 
>> aluminum after all. I can’t imagine what could have been binding on the cup, 
>> if anything. We were in the process of winching in the guy to pull the pole 
>> back for a deeper angle. It seems so odd that this broke.
>> 
>> Again, if anyone knows where to get a replacement it would be much 
>> appreciated. 
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> Matthew Schlanger
>> The Office
>> 1983 C 35 MKIII
>> Nyack NY
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Looking for replacement part for spinnaker pole end coupling

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

In one of the last races of the last season we broke our spinnaker pole. The 
nipple(?) that couples with the spinnaker’s mast car broke.
I managed to remove the end of the pole (I don’t know what these parts are 
called). Does anyone know where I can get a replacement? You can see a picture 
of what I mean here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rwwRxqAeVFh5igTcyIijgqZa8lHkjse8/view?usp=sharing

This is for a 1983 C 35 MKIII.

By the way The Office did decently well last year. Second place over all on 
Wednesday Nights, Hee Soo, also on this list earned first place. The race that 
broke our pole was part of The Last Chance Regatta for HRYRA (Hudson River 
Yacht Racing Association). We got a 3rd which is not bad. I think we were the 
only one in our club who finished in the money for division 1. We did pretty 
well just flying our #2 after the pole broke. Go figure. Well there was a lot 
of wind.

I suspect the breakage just had to do with fatigue after 37 years. It is 
aluminum after all. I can’t imagine what could have been binding on the cup, if 
anything. We were in the process of winching in the guy to pull the pole back 
for a deeper angle. It seems so odd that this broke.

Again, if anyone knows where to get a replacement it would be much appreciated. 

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
1983 C 35 MKIII
Nyack NY
___

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Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Here's my update:

I got a hold of stainless steal zerk fittings and screwed one into the hole the 
grease cap came out of. After trying to press in grease tough the zerk fitting 
pushed out. The pressure stripped what was left of the rusted threads. There 
seems to be enough grease in there for the season. Though I need to figure out 
a longer term solution. 
Drilling and tapping a new hole is an interesting idea. I am not about to drop 
the rudder for this and the boat is back in the water. The first race of the 
season was last night.

Thanks for all the input on this. There should be a simple enough way to get a 
fitting to stay in there, and the next level would be to add a hose, though 
with a metal extension tube on your grease gun it’s easy enough to get too.

Any ideas on glassing in the fitting? Probably not a good idea.

Thanks again.

Matthew


> On Apr 28, 2019, at 1:39 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Rick,
> 
> You're method makes sense.   
> 
> 
> 
> I dropped the rudder for other reasons; to check the shaft for crevice 
> corrosion and seal the joint where the shaft exits the fiberglass shell w 
> flexepoxy, straighten the quadrant, fit a better key, and add the grease 
> fittings.  I dropped it alone, but needed help to lift it back in.  
> Afterwards, I had a lot more confidence in the boat because the steering 
> system was no longer a mystery.  Hard to believe that was twelve years ago.
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck S
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> 
> 
> 
>> On April 28, 2019 at 12:59 PM RickC-List  wrote: 
>> 
>> The second that the tip of the drill bit goes from fiberglass/Delran to 
>> stainless you will feel it and know you’re done drilling. And is a little 
>> scratch or divot really going to hurt the 3” schedule 80 stainless pipe (or 
>> 3” stainless bar stock) the rudder shaft is made from? (With a carbon fiber 
>> shaft I’d definitely drop the rudder.)
>> 
>>   
>> It’s probably better if the rudder is out, but I’m not sure it makes a 
>> significant difference. Having enough thickness of the fiberglass/Delran to 
>> accommodate the tap and the threaded length of the zerk was a bigger concern 
>> for me. But the fiberglass tube on my 38 (no Delran bushings) was closer to 
>> ½” thich than ¼”, so no problems.
>> 
>>   
>> Rick Brass
>> 
>> Washington, NC
>> 
>>   
>>   
>>   
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of CHARLES 
>> SCHEAFFER via CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, April 27, 2019 9:45 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3
>> 
>>  
>> Hi Bruce,
>> You didn't state if you drilled the fiberglass casing with the rudder still 
>> in the boat? 
>> How did you drill through the delrin bearings without drilling into the SS 
>> rudder post? 
>> 
>> C
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>  
> 
>  
> 
>> ___ 
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Getting excited about getting back on the water.
but...

I have a dumb question, and
I see there are other posts about the rudder squeaking, some were thinking the 
same as was suggested to me locally, extend the fitting with a hose. 

Can I be confident that the squeaking issue is simply a grease problem?
Should I be concerned about stains that look like old grease dripped down the 
post housing?
I am posting a picture here. I assume this is my grease cap.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Na_wgHls_FKZ3TSl8GkxK7x5ObJPuvfU/view?usp=sharing
 


Does anyone know the fitting size and where I might get an extension hose and 
proper fitting to extend this out? 
Getting to the rudder post sucks. You have to take off the scupper hose at 
least, so extending this is a good idea as suggested by others.

Sorry in advance, I feel stupid on this one. Is that cap supposed to open to 
get grease into it? Or am I supposed to unscrew it?

Thanks

Ignorant as ever 

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 mk3
Nyack NY



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing water system

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I agree for the tank. Just letting it drain should be fine. It’s the running 
antifreeze through the rest of the system that’s throwing me. Today I did blast 
the tank with a compressor and more water came out so I  like doing that. Just 
letting it drain wasn’t 100 percent, but likely good enough. 

I traced the hosing some. Too many disappear below the hot water tank to have a 
full picture. A saw a puddle of antifreeze there but could get to it. It makes 
sense to connect the input and outputs of the tank together but it didn’t work. 
I think the water pressure pump feeds a T that then runs to the cold on the 
galley sink. I think there is another T there which probably feeds the hand 
shower in the head. The hot water does the same thing. So connecting tank out 
to the T at the input of the tank should pump water, antifreeze, to both 
endpoints. But it’s not happening. 

For this season, given my failure, I am hoping just draining and pulling 
antifreeze through the hand and foot pumped lines will be enough. So far can’t 
figure it out. 

Matthew
The Office
C 35 Mk III

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 18, 2018, at 3:15 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I leave mine drained and dry with hoses disconnected and i don’t blow with 
> compressed. 15 years no problems same pump and hw tank. I like simple
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 18, 2018 at 12:39 PM Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I am trying to winterize my water system myself this year. I have a C& 35 
>> mk3. I took the intake and output hoses off of the hot water tank, the lower 
>> connection was a T, I think that was the cold water input. I attached the 
>> hot to the cold water T, and let the water drain out of the tank. I plan to 
>> go back to today to blast it with air from a compressor to make sure. It 
>> takes a lot of energy and water to clear the pink antifreeze when spring 
>> comes an I have heard this is a better way to go - you are just never sure 
>> it’s all clear and don’t want to take any more antifreeze showers. I put 
>> antifreeze in the tank and hand pumped to through the passive lines but 
>> trying to use the pressure pump to fill the active lines, it comes out the 
>> bilge and never through the pressurized faucets. Either I busted a line or 
>> something weird is going on I have not figured it out yet. I will try to 
>> trace the hoses and see what’s going on. Disconnecting the in and out and 
>> tying them together was suggested by one of the boat mechanics at the 
>> boatyard I am using this year, but that doesn’t mean he’s right. 
>> 
>> Any insight would be appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Matthew Schlanger
>> The Office
>> C 35 mk III
>> South Nyack, NY
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
> 
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Stus-List Winterizing water system

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I am trying to winterize my water system myself this year. I have a C& 35 mk3. 
I took the intake and output hoses off of the hot water tank, the lower 
connection was a T, I think that was the cold water input. I attached the hot 
to the cold water T, and let the water drain out of the tank. I plan to go back 
to today to blast it with air from a compressor to make sure. It takes a lot of 
energy and water to clear the pink antifreeze when spring comes an I have heard 
this is a better way to go - you are just never sure it’s all clear and don’t 
want to take any more antifreeze showers. I put antifreeze in the tank and hand 
pumped to through the passive lines but trying to use the pressure pump to fill 
the active lines, it comes out the bilge and never through the pressurized 
faucets. Either I busted a line or something weird is going on I have not 
figured it out yet. I will try to trace the hoses and see what’s going on. 
Disconnecting the in and out and tying them together was suggested by one of 
the boat mechanics at the boatyard I am using this year, but that doesn’t mean 
he’s right. 

Any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 mk III
South Nyack, NY
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Stus-List new mast step question and a lot of FYI

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Hello CnC list,

I purchased The Office a couple years ago and was told by my surveyor that all 
the mast step needed was a 3/8” piece of fiberglass added to raise it up to 
make the flooring match. He didn’t feel the 3/8” depression was a structural 
problem.

Of course my first year on the hard the mast step was looked at and all others 
insisted it needed a total rebuild. My first estimate was 8K. I put this off a 
season and then found someone who did it for 6K. I am happy I didn’t try to do 
it myself, I hate creating in fiberglass and epoxy, and structurally this was 
way beyond my skill set. When doing the work Joe, my fiberglass guy, noticed 
that there is a void in front of the mast step and it was filled with very old 
stinking water. Though I leaned toward filling it in, I didn’t see how this was 
ever intended to be part of the bilge system, instead, Joe added a PVC pipe, 
about 1” in diameter, in the center of the mast step to allow for this forward 
area to drain. 

Splash the boat and I start to notice my bilge is working really hard. After a 
race my crew noticed the boat was sinking, add a newly broken wire on my bilge 
pump, I finally studied the situation and found a constant flow of water from 
the tube that was added to mast step. After discussion with Joe we realized 
that a small crack that I thought I saw, then decided was nothing, must have 
been in play.

I pulled the boat out that week and what looked like a tiny tiny crack before 
was now a good sized rip in the hull. This is at the forward corner, just 
before, and at, where the hull curves down to form the fin that the keel 
attaches too. Obviously the void in front of the mast step was still filling up 
and now draining through the new tube we added. If he didn’t add this tube it 
would have filled up and we would have not even noticed, as before. And 
obviously, this is why the mast step was rotted - the water that was being 
carried just forward of the mast step, and it would have rotted again. 

In making the second repair, Joe said he found an old sub-par repair, with 
foam, etc. He cleaned out the old repair, ground it down and built up the fiber 
glass layers. Put on some barrier coat, I added some ablative and The Office is 
in the water again. I was lucky this didn’t kill a month of the season.

Now I have to say I am still suspicious, why did this crack appear after 
rebuilding my mast step? My theory is that the heat from setting the epoxy did 
something to the old repair, though on the other hand, the fact that this area 
was filled with water would have you think it was never done right at all and 
was in play even if not very visible. I didn’t notice it before. My surveyor 
didn’t see it, I doubt the previous owner was aware of it.

Here is my question. Are people filling in this area in front of the mast step? 
It seems to me to serve no purpose. The forward bilge seems to run over this 
spot, and if water does get in there, as per the original design there’s no way 
for it to get out. Sounds dumb to me. And filled in it seems it would add 
something to the structure. Of course I’m not going back and doing this now.

Second question, it seems a rip in this area of the boat would indicate someone 
had a hard hit at some point. Should I be concerned? I am not seeing other 
issues. 


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
1983 C 35 mk3
Nyack NY
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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the comments. I ended up getting it apart and just changing out 
the bulb for an LED.

Good to know about the new alternatives. I did seal it up with some silicon 
putting it back together.

Thanks

Matt

> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Matt, 
> 
> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
> crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw 
> it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
> (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
>  
> )
> 
> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, 
> the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is nice 
> and thick.  
> 
> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
> forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
> maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light on 
> the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
> 
> Good luck with the project. 
> 
> Best Regards, 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Bill,

How did you get the unit apart? I took off the plate on top with the two screws.
Didn’t do much.
I tried unscrewing it but reached a point where I didn’t want to break it.
What’s the secret?

Tomorrow I was going to either manhandle it until it breaks or unscrews, then 
replace with whatever they have locally or just change the bulb for an LED.
 
And I am confused now, isn’t an anchor light just white. 360 degrees. What’s 
with the tricolor variety?

I left my Davis on and someone stomped it so I upgraded the LED when I got the 
new Davis from Defender. The old one had the lens separated from the base, I 
don’t know if it was from impact or just age.

Thanks Matt

> On May 7, 2018, at 2:44 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I wish this had all happened several hours ago, Just this morning I ordered 
> all the stuff I had on my screen from Defender, including a replacement 
> Series 40 stack AquaSignal Lens, because the old one was so crazed.
> Then I ordered the tri light from marinebeam, and the anchor light, the link 
> to that is
>  
> https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/
>  
> <https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/>
>  
> Matt, if you just replace the anchor light, this is probably the one.
> But, Now I am thinking of this SignalMate of Francois, it looks really nice. 
> Would also eliminate the Davis Windex light I just ordered.
> But, I see it is still polycarbonate, so I am guessing it will craze as well. 
>  But I will probably be dead by then, so I guess it doesn’t matter. . . 
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew 
> Schlanger via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 1:35 PM
> To: Francois Rivard
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light
>  
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the 
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
>  
> Matt
>  
>> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard <jeanfrancoisriv...@gmail.com 
>> <mailto:jeanfrancoisriv...@gmail.com>> wrote:
>>  
>> Hi Matt, 
>>  
>> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
>> crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw 
>> it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
>> (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
>>  
>> <https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/>)
>>  
>> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, 
>> the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is 
>> nice and thick.  
>>  
>> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
>> forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
>> maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light 
>> on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
>>  
>> Good luck with the project. 
>>  
>> Best Regards, 
>>  
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
>>  
>>  
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Yes I put a new one on that was LED. I agree.

Thanks

> On May 7, 2018, at 1:53 PM, Francois Rivard  
> wrote:
> 
> I understand.  
> 
> Another thing I forgot to mention is the built-in Windex light.  If you sail 
> at night it's really nice to have.  
> 
> Decisions, Decisions... 
> 
> I hope it works out to your liking!
> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM, Matthew Schlanger  > wrote:
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the 
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
> 
> Matt
> 
>> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard > > wrote:
>> 
>> Hi Matt, 
>> 
>> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
>> crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw 
>> it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
>> (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
>>  
>> )
>> 
>> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, 
>> the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is 
>> nice and thick.  
>> 
>> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
>> forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
>> maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light 
>> on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
>> 
>> Good luck with the project. 
>> 
>> Best Regards, 
>> 
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> Lake Lanier, GA
>> 
>> 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thanks.
Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the last 
minute I started thinking just change it out.

Matt

> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Matt, 
> 
> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up housing, 
> crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit and threw 
> it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor 
> (https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-anchor-2-wire/
>  
> )
> 
> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely sealed, 
> the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the lens is nice 
> and thick.  
> 
> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it and 
> forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so no 
> maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast light on 
> the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon pilots.  
> 
> Good luck with the project. 
> 
> Best Regards, 
> 
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> 
> 

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Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

My mast is down and I was thinking of changing out the bulb on my anchor light 
to an LED.
On my C 35 Mk3 I have a Aqua Signal Series 40 All-Round Navigation Light.
First, for the life of me I can’t unscrew it, I don’t want to break the thing.
Then if someone reveals the secret to getting it apart, any info on what LED 
units to use?
The aqua site is opaque and yet warns against after market LEDs, and I want to 
go in the water this weekend if possible so can’t wait for a long shipment.

Then thinking maybe I just upgrade to a new unit, fresh and sealed, does anyone 
have a good recommendation? Or suggestions on what to avoid?

The easy thing is to leave it alone, yet I think I would sleep better on the 
hook with an LED.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 Mk3
South Nyack, NY


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Re: Stus-List Looking to replace bracket for windex on C 35

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

The light is great when sailing at night. 
Yes I have the tack tick but being able to see your masthead fly is nice.

I ended up buying a new windex and light on Defender. 
It seems I had an old version of a Davis 15.
Thanks for the link, amazing to see I could have gotten a bracket, but the 
upright was bent, didn’t want to risk problems.

Thanks

Matt

> On Apr 28, 2018, at 8:03 AM, Jeffrey Nelson via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Correct website is:
> https://shop.yachtshop.ca/ <https://shop.yachtshop.ca/>
> 
>  Cheers,
>Jeff Nelson
>Muir Caileag
>C 30
>Armdale Y.C.
> On 4/28/2018 8:09 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:
>> Yacht shop. I think is www.yachtshop.ca <http://www.yachtshop.ca/>
>> 
>> I bought one with light for our last boat. Ironically after that I never 
>> sailed that boat after dark
>> 
>> Mike
>> Persistence
>> Halifax, ns
>> 
>> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
>> CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>]
>> Sent: April 27, 2018 8:04 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> Cc: Edd Schillay
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Looking to replace bracket for windex on C 35
>> 
>> Matthew,
>> 
>> Good options on eBay for the Windex and/or light.
>> 
>> http://www.ebay.com/bhp/davis-windex <http://www.ebay.com/bhp/davis-windex>
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ---
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
>> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, New York
>> www.StarshipSailing.com 
>> <http://www.starshipsailing.com/><http://www.StarshipSailing.com> 
>> <http://www.starshipsailing.com/>
>> ---
>> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
>> ---
>> Sent via iPhone X
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> 
>> On Apr 27, 2018, at 6:57 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com><mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello C list,
>> 
>> I have not been here for a while but the weather is turning nice and I found 
>> my masthead fly, also known as a windex, broken and on the ground.
>> It’s always something.
>> Mast was down, I guess I should have removed it.
>> 
>> This is for a C 35 mk3.
>> Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the bracket, with a lamp.
>> Alternatively, any suggestions for replacing the whole thing if I can’t find 
>> a bracket.
>> 
>> Thanks in advance.
>> 
>> Matthew Schlanger
>> The Office
>> C 35 mkIII
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
>> 
> 
> 
>  
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
> Virus-free. www.avast.com 
> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>
>  
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Looking to replace bracket for windex on C 35

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Hello C list,

I have not been here for a while but the weather is turning nice and I found my 
masthead fly, also known as a windex, broken and on the ground.
It’s always something.
Mast was down, I guess I should have removed it.

This is for a C 35 mk3.
Does anyone know where I can get a replacement for the bracket, with a lamp.
Alternatively, any suggestions for replacing the whole thing if I can’t find a 
bracket.

Thanks in advance.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 mkIII


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Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I purchased a 35 mk3 last year. I had reached the point that I was only looking 
at 35 mk3's. They are notorious PHRF beaters and decent for cruising. Though 
not as good for cruising as a cruising boat nor as competitive as a hardcore 
racer, it's a great racer cruiser for those willing to compromise and want 
both. The 35 is known as C's best work. This one looks clean, and your offer 
is an excellent price. I know of one for sale near me asking 40k though no one 
is biting. He would go 35k. Beware the mast step. If it's depressed likely you 
need to put in some money. Also beware of the decks. They are cored. There are 
other known weaknesses like the strut mount. 

Good luck. 

Matthew
The Office
35 mk 3
Nyack, NY (but currently hanging out in Block Island with other C)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 22, 2017, at 9:39 AM, Daniel Dickinson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello all. 
> 
>   Just put an offer in on a c 35 m3 and looking for advice, additional 
> resources, reassurance that this is a good boat. I'm upgrading from a Tanzer 
> 26 and am sailing primarily in the Portland Maine area. 
> 
> The listing 
> http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1983-c-c-35-mark-iii-6277990/#.WZwzq4UpCEc
> 
> Or you can google c mark iii maine and it's the first result. Boats name 
> is katahdid. 
> 
> Offer is for 25,000. Survey in a week. 
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> -daniel
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List clogged refrigerator drain

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Another question.

My refrigerator drain is clogged and it doesn’t seem to be a simple hose 
connection. There seems to be something under the refrigerator drain before the 
hose, but I can’t see how to get to it without pulling apart the boat. This is 
on a 35 Mk3

My favorite way to clear clogs these days is a steal cable casing in a drill 
but I don’t think that will work here. There seems to be a pan/plate blocking 
access from the refrigerator end. I will likely try to go the other way from 
the end of the hose that dumps under the sink into the bilge. 

Still, I would like to know what’s going on under the drain.
Anyone have any experience with this? 

Thanks in advance.


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY


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Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Your very welcome.

One correction. The second pump, the less expensive replacement, is a Johnson 
made only for Yanmar. I do think that number is a Yanmar number, there is also 
a Johnson number.


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 12:09 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Matthew
>  
> This is very good information for those of us with 3GM30F engines!
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew 
> Schlanger via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 12:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
>  
> Thank you for all who responded. 
> FYI
>  
> As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good 
> idea, I am opting to buy a new pump.
>  
> I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
> http://www.depcopump.com/ <http://www.depcopump.com/>
> I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.
>  
> It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
> This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was similar - 
> $528
> But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were marinized 
> in Europe. - $242
> Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
> I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had the 
> other pump or substituted for it.
> The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think has a 
> split shaft.
> Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.
>  
> I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or 
> sell one.
>  
> Thanks again.
>  
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 Mk3
> Nyack, NY
>  
> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> Fix the pump if possible 
>  
> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
>  
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  
>  Original message 
> From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger <m...@blackhammer.com <mailto:m...@blackhammer.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF 
>  
> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
> Yanmar 3GMF.
> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
> 
> Are there reasonable alternatives?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 MKIII
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thank you for all who responded. 
FYI

As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good idea, 
I am opting to buy a new pump.

I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
http://www.depcopump.com/ <http://www.depcopump.com/>
I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.

It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was similar - 
$528
But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were marinized in 
Europe. - $242
Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had the 
other pump or substituted for it.
The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think has a 
split shaft.
Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.

I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or sell 
one.

Thanks again.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY

> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Fix the pump if possible 
> 
> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger <m...@blackhammer.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
> Yanmar 3GMF.
> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
> 
> Are there reasonable alternatives?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 MKIII
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Yes raw water pumped into the heat exchange.
Thanks for the info. 
Still researching.


Matt

> On Jul 25, 2017, at 12:49 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> I replaced the Fresh Water pump on 3GM30F two years ago.  I sourced the part 
> from local Yanmar parts dealer.  Was $206.61 CAD +taxes and easily replaced.  
> Gasket was 5.52 We have not changed the raw water pump. Item number for pump 
> was 121000-42100 and for gasket was 121000-42052.  I am not sure if these 
> were dealer part numbers or Yanmar.  I think yanmar. 
> 
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew 
> Schlanger via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, July 25, 2017 12:46 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger
> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
> Yanmar 3GMF.
> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
> 
> Are there reasonable alternatives?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 MKIII
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
Yanmar 3GMF.
It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!

Are there reasonable alternatives?

Thanks


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 MKIII


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Re: Stus-List Where to get parts for old Lewmar Winches?

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thanks Eric!
Didn’t need this list to ask you that did I.

Matthew Schlanger
---
The Office




> On Mar 20, 2017, at 5:07 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Found the old email. That is where I got them.
> 
> On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 5:03 PM, Eric Baumes <eric.bau...@gmail.com 
> <mailto:eric.bau...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> I think I got some parts for an old lewmar here
> 
> http://www.winchspares.com/ <http://www.winchspares.com/> I can't find any 
> old emails, but their address was in my contact list.
> 
> They might be located in the UK, but they were pretty reasonable (shipping 
> excluded)
> 
> Eric
> 
> On Mon, Mar 20, 2017 at 4:56 PM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> One of my primaries, a Lewmar Three Speed 48, has a part, I think it was just 
> interior to the top plate, that is plastic with one or two posts that springs 
> attach to. This is cracked and I need to replace it to get the lowest speed 
> and button working again.
> 
> This is on a 1983 C 35 Mk3.
> (I don’t know if these winches were original to the boat.)
> 
> Anyone know where I can find parts for old Lemar winches?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> ---
> The Office
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Where to get parts for old Lewmar Winches?

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

One of my primaries, a Lewmar Three Speed 48, has a part, I think it was just 
interior to the top plate, that is plastic with one or two posts that springs 
attach to. This is cracked and I need to replace it to get the lowest speed and 
button working again.

This is on a 1983 C 35 Mk3.
(I don’t know if these winches were original to the boat.)

Anyone know where I can find parts for old Lemar winches?

Thanks

Matthew Schlanger
---
The Office



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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thanks Jake and Joel for the warm welcome.


Matthew Schlanger
---
Black Hammer
p 212 625 8980
http://www.blackhammer.com <http://www.blackhammer.com/>




> On Mar 11, 2017, at 9:11 AM, Jake Brodersen <captain_j...@cox.net> wrote:
> 
> Matt,
>  
> Welcome to the list.  I raced on The Office with Joel in the 2014 
> Annapolis-Bermuda Ocean Race, so I know the boat pretty well.
> I’m also another 35-3 owner.  If you have questions, you’re in the right 
> place.
> 
> Cheers,
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
> 
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Matthew Schlanger via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, March 10, 2017 13:03
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger <m...@blackhammer.com <mailto:m...@blackhammer.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails
>  
> I am interested in the Blade, thinking about the Genoa but need to look at 
> NorLam for racing.
>  
> I am new to the list. First post.
>  
> Matthew Schlanger
> ---
> The Office
> C 35 MkIII

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

I am interested in the Blade, thinking about the Genoa but need to look at 
NorLam for racing.

I am new to the list. First post.

Matthew Schlanger
---
The Office
C 35 MkIII



> On Mar 10, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Bob,
> 
> I'd be interested in the Kevlar X20 main. What is the weight, age and 
> condition?
> 
> Dave J
> Saltaire
> C 35 MKlll
> Bristol,
> RI
> 
> 
> From: "rshibe via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "rshibe" 
> Sent: Tuesday, March 7, 2017 12:27:41 PM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35 MK III full set of North racing sails
> 
> Hey Bob, 
> Are you selling Invictus, getting different boat???
> Ray
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Mar 7, 2017, at 11:16, Bob Curtiss via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Need to sell! NorLam 155% Genoa, Kevlar Blade w/battens,
> 
> Kevlar main X20 grey, full spinnaker. $3,000, or best offer. 
> 
> _
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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