Stus-List Re: White vinegar

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I no lie used to work for a company called CRS, (Cash Register Systems)
worst company acronym! But vinegar has lots of uses on a boat. It can clean
up mild mold, as well as general cleaning. It is also helpful in getting
rid of mineral build up in head hoses and marine cooling systems. Put it in
the raw cooling system to get rid of salt and barnicals.

On Thu, Apr 1, 2021, 11:01 AM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As senior citizen I suffer from the dreaded malady
> CRS.
> Yesterday while visiting Fury I found a gallon of white vinegar.
> Hopefully, one of you can remind me what is for.
> Thanks
> Fred Hazzard
> SV Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

Yes the atomic 4 is rated at 30 HP but no one uses it near its HP peak
level of RPM. So most people in sailboats use about 18-20 HP of the usable
30. Some of the older power boats may have revved that engine up to the HP
peak level. I don't think I ever pushed mine over about 2200 rpm so that
was around 18 HP to move my C 33. Great engines, last a LONG time. But
they are all getting long in the tooth now.

On Mon, Aug 24, 2020 at 3:53 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe the difference is between rated HP and shaft HP, which is
> generally lower after things like transmission loss, accessory loads, and
> friction.
>
>
>
> IIRC, an A4 was rated as 30HP, but the shaft HP was something like 17or
> 18. Which is why an2 cylinder Yanmar is a suitable replacement foe an A4.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joe
> Della Barba via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, August 24, 2020 2:15 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joe Della Barba 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List 37+ Cruise Speed
>
>
>
> What the heck is a 13hp Atomic 4? Mine is 30 HP.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> On 8/24/2020 1:26 PM, Daniel A. Willis via CnC-List wrote:
>
> My 1973 30' Mk 1 had a 13hp atomic four but was re-engine 12 years ago
> with a 20 hp Universal. She stops on a dime and handles very well with all
> that power. I suspect some might simply have been re-powered over the years
> as our Santiago was.
>
>
> --
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Timing Belt

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

Valve timing, on a diesel it is not really timing as it is not triggering a
distributor, but it still moves the valve train on an overhead cam engine.
The Pathfinder was a marinized VW single overhead cam diesel that was
converted from the car engines. The car engine was a converted gas design.
Or it could be a SeaPower marine engine but those are the VW TDI engines
and I have not seen one of those in a sailboat as they start off well over
100 hp. (Mine in my car is 150 hp at 3500 HP)

On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 1:12 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What are you timing?   A diesel doesn’t have spark plugs and the valves
> are on a cam shaft.
>
> Neil Andersen
> 1982 C 32
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> --
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Timing Belt
>
> To my knowledge all yanmar engines are gear driven.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, Jul 31, 2020, 11:48 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Kubota based marine engines are also gear driven.
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 31, 2020 at 10:44 AM Sam Salter via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Rob,
>>> The 2GMF timing is gear driven. There is no timing belt to change.
>>>
>>
>> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Removing shrouds

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

Don't the ends need to have mushrooms cut off and resweaged? if so I would
let a good rigger experienced with rod rigging do it, and do a dye test at
the same time. They usually use longer fittings to make up for the loss in
lenght and it is supposed to be done periodically, though I have no idea
how often. Or consider replacing it all as it could be time anyway, rod
lasts longer than wire but not for ever.


On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 6:14 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok so i didn’t see this before i posted so that makes it plus 2 on the
> importance of shrouds on sailboats
>
> On Tue, Dec 24, 2019 at 5:48 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> 1+ on having a rigger check it out--even if you can replace it, your rig
>> will likely need tuned.
>>
>> IMHO, messing around with the rigging is one place where I will pay a
>> professional to fix it. Except for an abandon ship from a sinking vessel,
>> having a gravity storm with your rigging is probably the 2nd worse thing
>> that can happen on a sailboat.
>>
>> FWIW,
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom 83309
>> C 36XL/kcb
>> New Bern, NC
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Michael Brannon via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: Michael Brannon 
>> Sent: Tue, Dec 24, 2019 3:47 pm
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing shrouds
>>
>> I would recommend you get a rigger to look at it.  If you have the old
>> style NAVTEC fittings it will be much easier to remove with the mast out of
>> the boat.
>>
>>
>> Mike Brannon
>> Virginia Lee 93295
>> C 36 CB
>> Virginia Beach, VA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 19, 2019, at 8:26 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hello fellow Listers,
>>
>> I noticed after hurricane Doirion that the turnbuckle on the lower shroud
>> had loosened substantially and now in heavier wind it comes loose almost as
>> though the threads are worn or stripped.  I want to replace it but I don't
>> know how to remove it from the rod rigging.  Am I able to replace it
>> without or is there a trick to disconnecting the shroud at the mast?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Adam Hayden.
>>
>> Get Outlook for Android 
>> ___
>>
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>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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>> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Tether warning and snap shackle split rings

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I thought these tethers were recalled due to the slip rings. May have been
thinking of something else but check with West Marine. I have a mixed
relationship with them, hate them but they do stand behind their products
and some stores are very good. My local store happens to have old sailors
working there and they can help with almost anything, but other stores are
power boater centric and can be downright unpleasant.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_6/product_update/West_Marine_Updates_Recalled_Tether_10452-1.html



On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 10:40 AM John McKay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Strange to see your comment on a shackle.
>
> I had a new shackle on a new spin sheet blow this week. Luckily all the
> parts were trapped by the famous C toe rail. Thanks for the advice on
> searching out heavier rings which I likely should have for a sheet. I have
> taped the ring so there is no end to get caught on something.
>
> John on Enterprise 33 MKII
> Sarnia Ontario
>
> On Sunday, July 8, 2018, 9:57:24 a.m. EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I was checking the PFD's, harnesses and tethers before a race couple weeks
> ago.  When I pulled the release on one of the tether's "human" end snap
> shackle, it disintegrated.  The snap shackle could not been released if
> needed.  Very dangerous situation.  Please check your safety gear often!!
>
> The tether was a West Marine brand.  (Yeah, I know how many times I've
> posted to the list not to buy anything with the West Marine brand.)
>
> Anyway, split rings for snap shackles are hard to find.  They must be
> stronger than the ones you use to secure cotter pins in order to withstand
> the force of pulling without straightening out.
>
> I could have ordered a Ronstan plunger pin kit which includes a single
> heavy duty split ring for about $20.  I decided to look at other options.
>
> I ordered some from mcmaster.com.  Their Part #90905A652 9/16" 316
> stainless split ring seems to work OK.  While obviously not as sturdy as
> the Ronstan, it fit and withstood a significant pull without deforming.
> Unless you have a rather excitable gorilla on your crew, I suspect it
> should work just fine.  A pack of 10 is about $10-15 shipped.
>
> If anyone finds the standard snap shackle split rings online or a better
> alternative, please post.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
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>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
> 
> <#m_5719270154116172669_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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Re: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I have used similar on decking and they worked great on that, but I think
the thread design is intended for soft wood not sure how it would work in
hardwoods.

On Wed, Mar 28, 2018, 12:40 PM svrebeccaleah via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I haven't heard of these but after a quick search they look like they
> would work great.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Rebecca Leah
> LF39
> POYC, WA.
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> Date: 3/28/18 05:19 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey 
> Subject: Stus-List SHARX™ SCREWS FOR MARINE USE
>
> HI, Has anyone used these screws?  I was thinking of putting my salon
> back together with them.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Danny
>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I used clear on my side port-lights, and like it. I don't think I would
like dark grey anyway.

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 1:37 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used 9mm (3/8") #126 bronze for my side windows.  I'm happy with the
> color.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 10:30 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.
>>
>> Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently
>> Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.
>>
>> Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from
>> Montreal) but they don't have the darker grey currently in stock in Canada.
>>
>> I've got to go take a look at a sample - but googling images for "grey
>> acrylic 2064" (light) vs "grey acrylic 2074" (dark) -- I'd think my side
>> windows are dark and my opening hatches are the lighter grey.  I may be
>> forced to go with light grey for both.
>>
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>> On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done
>>> some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems to
>>> come up.
>>> I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of
>>> 9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't seem
>>> like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or availability.
>>>
>>> I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the replacement
>>> this spring.
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>>   - George Santayana
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
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Re: Stus-List Air filter for Kubota based diesels

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

For a road going car I would not use a K filter, as they let too much
dirt through, though for an on-board marine diesel, I see no issues. Likely
better than the original. I know on gas motors they require a metal flame
arrester, but that is not required on a diesel.

On Sat, Mar 4, 2017 at 10:42 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was ordering some onboard spare parts for my Universal 25XPB diesel when
> I couldn't find a part number for the foam pre-filter element that goes on
> the outside of the metal air intake screem assembly.  In my research I
> found a thread about an OEM metal intake screen assembly that had
> deteriorated and spun off some small metal parts.  Not good. I inspected my
> intake screen and it looked good. However, it gave me a bit of concern.
>
> A new metal air screen assembly is >$70.
>
> A bit more probing on the Web turned up a nice comforting solution for 1/2
> the price.  A non-metal air filter made by K  The RU-2450 has a 1.75
> inch ID which fits the smaller Kubota diesels.  I measured the intake for
> my Universal 25XPB at 1.75 inches.  It apparently will fit the M25 and M30
> diesels also but measure your intake to be sure.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/RU-2450-Universal-Rubber-Filter/dp/B00062YQRA
>
> I've used K permanent air filters on my car and trucks for years.  Why
> not Touche's diesel?  I already use a K oil filter on it.
>
> The very favorable reviews on the Amazon listing specifically mention
> Kubota based diesels.  A couple mention noise reduction also.
>
> Just an FYI for those of you that have Kubota based diesels.  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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Re: Stus-List Wind Turbine / Generators

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

from what I have researched it takes a strong consistent wind before they
make sense. From what I have read you start getting usable output at about
15 knots, and it does not start making it's peak till well over 20 knots.
Might make sense in the Caribbean(eastern), or Pacific islands, I don't'
see it working in NY.

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 1:10 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> After watching the Brown family on Alaskan Bush People last night install
> a wind turbine to power their part of the island, I got to thinking
> (usually a very dangerous and costly thing to do) and found this on
> Defender: http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|
> 2290063|2290064=2188348
>
> So — has anyone installed a wind turbine/generator on their C? Pros?
> Cons? How did you mount it? Any photos of your mounts would be appreciated
> in case I pull the trigger.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Bottom Painting -- Anyone Spray?

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I think lots of yards would require a tent to be able to spray. Seems it
would create a lot of time cleaning up between coats, and will take several
times more coats to get a good level of protection.

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 1:14 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> I’m considering the idea of spray-painting my bottom paint this season
> with my usual Petit Vivid bottom paint (I know a thinner is needed to
> apply).
>
> Has anyone done this? I’m looking to see some time and energy, but am
> concerned about wasting paint, accidentally painting the topsides, or
> painting someone else’s boat or nearby car.
>
> Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. It’s 67 degrees in
> New York right now and I’m getting the itch.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

When wiring my 33, I did 5 circuits (battery charger, galley, port side,
starboard side and left one for a future water heater) and I used GFCI
outlets on the first in each of the 4 branches with outlets(3). Sometimes
it just does not matter what is reacquired, it is what is best. Do remember
that you only need one on the circuit and if you buy a bulk pack they are
not expensive. No need for a "marine" product here, though I did pay extra
for the ones marked "WR" for water resistant, though not sure it really
makes a difference. I just figured there is a lot of water around the boat
so it could not hurt.

On Thu, Feb 23, 2017 at 12:54 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I put some in Pegasus at the beginning of each AC outlet circuit during my
> rewire project.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> Pegasus
>
> LF38
>
>
> T-Mobile. America's First Nationwide 4G Network.
>
>
> -- Original message--
>
> *From: *Persuasion37 via CnC-List
>
> *Date: *Thu, Feb 23, 2017 09:43
>
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
>
> *Cc: *Persuasion37;
>
> *Subject:*Re: Stus-List GFCI outlets
>
>
> My 2014 surveyor recommended it and my insurer insisted upon 
> it.MikePERSUASIONC 37 K/CBLong Sault> On Feb 23, 2017, at 10:37 AM, Alex 
> Giannelia via CnC-List  wrote:> > Do the current ABYC standards insist on 
> GFCI outlets for 117 VAC branch circuits?> > Alex Giannelia> C 35-II (1974) 
> no 282> a...@airsensing.com <+a...@airsensing.com>> > > 
> ___> > This list is supported by 
> the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to 
> offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray> > All 
> Contributions are greatly 
> appreciated!___This list is 
> supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a 
> contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
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Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I used Paneltronics, at least equal quality to Blue Seas. Customer service
was excellent too, and will make up a custom panel as well for little extra
cost. I asked a few questions before the panel was delivered and they gave
me very accurate an rapid answers. I had such good service I will use them
from now on. I am sure they use the same breakers as Blue Seas as I doubt
either one makes there own. Panel thickness was very good, and wiring was
neatly run.

On Fri, Feb 17, 2017 at 1:23 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mathew
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
> a...@airsensing.com
> (416) 203-9858
>
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 17 Feb 2017 07:51:50 -0500
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions
> Message-ID: <45ACD1AB55D6494CBCA1FF12A30A99B9@InternetPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> In response to one of your queries below: I like circuit breakers for both
> AC and DC; I like Blue Sea Systems; and I do not like panels that combine
> AC and DC.  I replaced the original fuse panel on my 34 with two BSS DC
> circuit breaker panels (one relatively large, and the second because I
> needed more breakers).  To get them to fit in the old fuse panel
> configuration, I had a fabricating shop make an aluminum frame the same
> size as the old panel (about $50), with cut-outs for installing the BSS
> panels.  I then sent the aluminum frame to BSS, and they painted or
> powder-coated it (or whatever they do) so that it matched their panels ?
> and they did this for free because I was using their circuit breaker
> panels.  I also replaced the clunky old AC breaker box with a small BSS
> circuit breaker with polarity indicator.  I also installed a BSS switch
> that keeps the house and engine batteries separate but can cross connect in
> the event of a problem with the engine battery.  Great sys!
>  tem, which I?m considering for my ?new? boat (a 42).
>
> From: Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, February 17, 2017 1:49 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Alex Giannelia
> Subject: Stus-List Re-wiring, looking for suggestions
>
> So, the old girl came off the hard, has a new electric motor and is now
> going to get new cabin wiring.
>
>
>
> I have been reading about bonding, grounding, panels, etc. and my head is
> spinning, so thought I ?d turn to the list for some collective wisdom
>
>
>
> Here?s a few:
>
>
>
> What sort of panels do people recommend?  The spread is for a couple
> hundred bucks for a fuse panel to well over a grand for a combined AC/DC
> Blue Seas baby.
>
>
>
> I am removing the old combined AC/DC panel above the companionway with one
> 6 gang panel in the cockpit and a 12 position plus 3 AC at the Nav Station.
>
>
>
> SHORE POWER
>
>
>
> Ok, so who is using an isolation transformer?
>
>
>
> Do you connect the DC Negative at the battery with the AC ground on your
> incoming?
>
>
>
> BONDING/LIGHTNING PROTECTION
>
>
>
> Who connects all the rig, prop shaft and keel in one electrical bundle
> also connected with battery ground?  Has anyone ever considered bonding the
> aluminum toe rails?
>
>
>
> RFI shielding
>
>
>
> What do you guys do to reduce RFI cross talk?
>
>
>
> That?s it for now.
>
>
>
> This will be a simple boat, VHF, GPS Simrad WP30 Wheelpilot and Standard
> Instruments.  The power supply for the electric motor was done already by a
> marine electrical guy and works extremely well.
>
>
>
> Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Let ?er roll!
>
>
>
> Alex
>
>
>
> Alex Giannelia
>
> C 35-II (1974) no 282
>
> a...@airsensing.com
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Anyone had experience with Starbrite Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner?

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

If you use heating oil at home, then I would dump it into my heating oil
tank. Then clean the tank out as best you can and start off fresh. I like
the Startron on gasoline, has kept several-year-old 10% alcohol laden gas
fresh for my atomic 4.

On Tue, Jan 31, 2017 at 12:38 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When my fuel tank sprung a leak, the boatyard let me dump my almost full
> tank into their crane. “It’ll burn anything”…
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 31, 2017 12:25 PM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley 
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Anyone had experience with Starbrite Star Tron
> Fuel Tank Cleaner?
>
>
>
> Some people get touchy about running questionable fuel through the tank of
> their beloed diesel truck.  Besides getting stuck on the side of the road
> could be worse than getting stuck dead in the water.  At least in the water
> we still have our primary means of propulsion.  Now if this is just an end
> of year routine and there is good faith in the cleanliness of the diesel
> being transferred to the truck then there is absolutely no problem.
>
>
>
> It will probably never matter to most of us but some marinas offer off
> road diesel which hasn't had a DOT tax.  This diesel is died red so that
> inspectors can catch you using "off road" in your car or truck.  Typically
> passenger vehicles don't get their tanks "dipped" so we'll probably never
> get caught but just know that it is a possibility.
>
>
>
> The most critical part of most diesel engines is the fuel injectors or HP
> fuel pump.  They both have extremely tight tolerances to ensure proper
> spray pattern, pressure, and volume are achieved.  That's why we have so
> many fuel filters, often running as fine as 2 microns.  A proper injector
> or HP pump cleaning is equivalent to a rebuild and may not be effective
> without replacement parts.  Your home fuel oil furnace burner has orifices
> in an easily replaced nozzle and the filtering recommendation is 50
> microns, 25 times larger than that of our engines.  Furnaces also have
> considerably more room for a larger capacity filter or more of them.  In a
> dilution is the solution situation the home tank is also considerably
> larger so 40 gallons gets spread out further.
>
>
>
>
>
> *On the topic of additives:*  One of the problems facing our older
> engines is ULSD (Untra Low Sulfur Diesel) which is being sold at the
> pumps.  Sulfer is a lubricity additive that is supposed to ensure low
> friction and low wear on those tight tolerance parts I mentioned earlier.
> Our older engines where not designed with this lower sulfer concentration
> in mind.  An off the shelf additive that gets high marks across the
> Internet and one from which I've been able to see a performance improvement
> is Opti-Lube.  It is relatively inexpensive and IMO anyone with a diesel
> should consider adding it to their treatment plan.  In 5 seasons of
> operation I've never used a biocide and never needed to change my fuel
> filters.  I run 2 micron in both the primary and secondary and I have a
> vacuum gage which I monitor for filter fouling.  I use 60 to 80 gallons per
> season and end the season with ~1/2 tank (~20gal).  I freshen up the tank
> by filling it at the beginning of the following season.  I do try to use a
> filter funnel to remove moisture when I can.  The funnel slows things up so
> it works best with a jerry can.  Depending on the situation I fill the can
> from the gas station OR fuel dock.  Sometimes when pressed for time or very
> low fuel in the boat tank I just fill straight from the dock, no funnel, no
> jerry can.
>
>
>
> http://opti-lube.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Tue, Jan 31, 2017, 8:11 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Why not empty into jerrycans and run in a diesel truck?  Given that the
> truck goes through a lot more fuel it should not hurt the truck
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 30, 2017 9:48 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Anyone had experience with Starbrite Star Tron
> Fuel Tank Cleaner?
>
>
>
> FYI that engine burns roughly 1 gallon per hour and the fuel tank capacity
> is roughly 40 gallons.  So you're potentially facing a considerable amount
> of run time just to get rid of the old fuel.
>
>
>
> After recircing it for the desired time, you might just consider disposing
> of the fuel.  It can usually be disposed of the same as any used motor oil.
>
>
>
> I would be torn about wasting all that fuel and would base my decision on
> how bad the results of the recirc were.  I'd also consider how well the
> engine runs on the old fuel and how much you actually have.  A 

Re: Stus-List SOS signals - LED light to replace flares?

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

To me it is just another tool, I would not rely on it only. I do think the
idea of will Joe the plumber would know what SOS is, so I would want to
have both on board, then again I have at least 15 flairs on board. (many
expired, but still dry and sealed, so likely to be useful in an emergency.

On Wed, Jun 15, 2016 at 10:37 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

> Here is a nice review of the  Sirius Signal SOS C-1001 LED at Panbo.
>
>
>
> http://www.panbo.com/archives/2015/09/one_led_flare_replaces_us_required_pyros_sirius_signal_but_not_ocean_signal.html
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Jun 15, 2016, at 7:35 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2016 22:11:53 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Stus-List SOS signals - LED light to replace flares?
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Marinebeam says this light will replace pyrotechnic flares for a night
> signaling device.  Are they correct?  What would you use for a day signal?
>
> <
>
> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-flare-visual-distress-signal-never-buy-flares-again/
>
>
>
> Anybody have one of them?
> How would one convince a Coastie they are legal?
> What day
>
> Dennis
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Lemon oil cause mildew? Use Borax

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

Yes, Borax or TSP works great. Bleach takes the color out of it, but does
not really kill mold. I prefer Borax for Mold as it is more benign, but if
you have TSP (real TSP not the substitute) it works well. Caustic
(alkaline) cleaners like TSP and Borax actually break down the cell walls
on the mold.

On Wed, Jan 13, 2016 at 8:19 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi,
>
> One of the best ways to kill mold and to stop it from coming back is to
> use a mixture of Borax and warm water (1 cup to 1 gallon).   It turns out
> that it is the alkalinity not acidity that kills mold.
>
> Here is an interesting read: http://moldblogger.com/how-borax-kills-mold/
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Carrabelle, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
___

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Stus-List C 33 MKI

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

Hello all, boat is coming along, nicely cleaned out on the interior, shore
power getting set up. Time to set up the propane bulkhead heater. I was
wondering if anyone with a 33 MKI has put a propane locker under the helm
seat. I have taken visual measurements and it looks like there should be
room, but just looking for ideas. I will pull out a tape next time I am
aboard.
___

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