Stus-List digest email help
apologies for sending this to the list, but the "request/help" id doesn't seem to explain things enough for my problem. Before the upgrade, I used to get the digest form of the list...once a day. I stopped getting them on 10/21. I tried resubscribing as "join digest" but got the bad argument error. is the digest form still an option? Thanks Sean ConnerOctober is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List list upgrade question
For many years I have been using the email archive site at https://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/ to review the discussions on this list. Since the upgrade, this site does not seem to exist, so was just wondering if this feature will still be available somewhere. It really was a great way to access the content by data, author, thread, etc. Many thanks--dutifully subscribed since 1997... Sean Conner___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Yanmar breather vent fitting with hole in it?
This topic caught my attention, as I've been meaning to send the list an update on the same issue I recently experienced. I have a 3JH2TE (turbo) on a new to me J/42. When running the engine this spring, we noticed oil dripping out of the air intake filter. After a series of troubleshooting (first suspecting bad seals on turbo), I realized the oil was coming from the breather line that leads from crankcase to air filter housing. Interestingly enough, this was only happening when the engine was started in colder conditions (less than 45F). So I suspected I was getting a bit of blow by (worn rings?) and at initial start up the pressure was pushing some oil out the breather tube. I installed an oil catch can to resolve this--same concept as Josh describes as a dropout tank in his (awesome) vid. It was a $20 part and I installed in-line in the breather tube-see pic. Bruce- I can't see your pic, but I suspect it's a fitting for some form of catch or dropout can to collect "impurities" and prevent them from re-entering on the air intake side. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NEAjeB1AwVQmjFrbo8pxJFrSLpfoWo_D/view?usp=sharing ps. Thanks again for all the activity on this list--while I wish I had more time to contribute, it remains my #1 go to reference for all things sailing. Sean Conner ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 168, Issue 55
I just completed a total head plumbing refit on our new boat, and wanted to concur with Adrian's comments. I ended up adding a new holding tank as well (long story) and fortunately I was able to figure out the model of the OEM Kracor tank. Ronco then used that info and came up with a nearly exact match. So if you can draft a good dimensional drawing, they will likely find a stock mold that will fit. For us it ended up being an 18 gallon tank. I ordered a blank tank and the total cost including shipping to NH was about $340. BTW, I also used Peggy's book as a guide, and used Uniseals for the fittings installed on top of tank. easy peasy. Good luck! > > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2020 16:54:03 -0500 > From: Adrian Humphreys > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Head Tank Replacement. > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii > > Ronco-Plastics.com > > They have ready-made tooling for a lot of different tanks, and will work with > you to find one that fits your need. Make a dimensioned drawing for them. The > tank is roto-molded when you order, so you can specify the fittings you want. > The original tank under the v-berth on our C had the outlet at the > bottom of the vee where it had cracked and leaked. We specified a "dip-tube" > outlet, so all the fittings (inlet, vent, inspection port, and outlet) are on > or near the top. The tank we chose is a very close match to the original and > fits the space well. They will also create custom tooling, but IIRC, the > price estimate started at $2,000+ > > Cost was a little over $300 for our 18 gallon tank and fittings; UPS shipping > from California was almost half that. Rich Gray at Ronco was a great help. > > We added all new plumbing, larger vent, hand bilge pump to empty it, an > external sensor kit from ferriellosales.com/monitoring-systems.html > ($150.00), and a lot of labor. The Peggy Hall book was essential to the > planning (amazon.com/New-Get-Rid-Boat-Odors/). > > Adrian Humphreys > Epilogue, Rockport ME > C 33-2 > adri...@telamontech.com > > > > > > On Jan 24, 2020, at 9:30 AM, John McCrea via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > Hello. I am in the process of replacing the holding tank on our 1979 C > > 36. We bought the boat in 2018 and it had a bladder for a tank under the v. > > I want to go back to the original configuration of the 24-gallon plastic > > tank. I visited a sister ship last weekend and after taking all the > > dimensions, I found the tank on the Kracor website. Kracor no longer sells > > to the public. Through some marine industry connections, I did find out > > that Tartan does have the toolings for that tank but said that be prepared > > to pay a lot for it. As in over $500. Does anyone else know of a source for > > either a custom tank or something similar to the original? Thanks! > > > > John McCrea > > Talisman > > Mystic, CT > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and > > every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use > > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Turbo's
I have a new (to me) Yanmar 3JH2-TE turbo, and after running it for the first time in a number of months, I noticed oil coming from the hose that leads from the turbo to the air intake. Additionally, the air filter was pretty oily. My first thought is the seals in turbo are shot.. do they dry out if not the engine is not run (for ~18 months)?So just wanted to see if anyone else has experience before I plan to rebuild the turbo charger.Also think this explains the smoke (not significant, but noticeable) when the engine was running... Thanks in advance for any replies. Sean Conner C 34 Ladyhawke ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List The day has come...selling my beloved 34
I’m the third owner and have cared for this yacht for 22 years. She is well equipped for short handed sailing. She has modern electronics and all the amenities for cruising.She was repowered in 2014 with a rebuilt Yanmar 3GM30F and a Flex-o-Fold feathering prop. Her sail inventory is in great condition and consists of battened main, (2) 155% genoas, and asymmetrical and symmetrical spinnakers. I’ve basically rebuilt all the systems over the last five years. LADYHAWKE is now are the hard for the winter in Eliot ME with storage paid through the winter. Potential mooring arrangements possible in NH. Asking $17,500.Information and pics available at the shared drive below. https://drive.google.com/file/d/10D4Mac3IY7oMZ3VJJ7Fgu7S7y602B3hJ/view?usp=sharing Sean Conner___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List years a C owner
I've owned our 34 Ladyhawke for 22 years. It was originally named Kings Ransom and docked on a lake in Houston TX - pretty much used as a waterfront condo. Second owner renamed her, berthed her in Pocasset, MA and rarely used her (name apropos). While I raced her for 15 years here in Portsmouth/New Castle NH, she's been mostly day sailed and lightly cruised the last seven years while I refresh all major systems.Been looking to move up in size for a few years, but it's just so hard to consider moving on from this boat. Something about the C family...maybe a 121 in my future?...:) Sean Conner/ C 34 Ladyhawke (hull #134).___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Raising the boom?
When I bought our 34 back in 1996 I noticed unused holes about 10" under the boom. It took me a few years to figure out the boom had been raised by prior owner; this was when I was measuring for a new main and the old sail measurements were shorter than the specs. So I don't have good reference for how it impacted performance, but I can't imagine lowering the boom considering the head clearance, etc; I also had the main made so it was ~6" below the top of the mast. My experience racing this boat over the years is the main is the minority of your performance.. it's all about the right headsail, right amount of heel and VMG downwind with the spinnaker. Btw, I did have a SS gooseneck made as the aluminum OEM was not going to last. Sean Conner/LADYHAWKE > Message: 1 > Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2018 20:53:40 -0400 > From: Nathan Post > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Raising the boom? > Message-ID: <705a1bc9-73cb-4edb-8433-f865bbdac...@gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Good thinking John. I?ll assess that gap a bit more carefully next time I am > out. Thanks, Nathan > > > > On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:33 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List > > wrote: > > > > Hi Nathan > > > > On our 34, there is a reason why the head is a foot or so below the top; of > > the mast. It is to provide room for the sail headboard to fit between the > > aft edge of the mast and the backstay. Keep that in mind as you are > > thinking of altering things > > > > John and Maryann > > Legacy III > > 1982 C 34 > > Noank, CT > > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 34 - 3GM30F oil pressure warning - theory or solved -Gauge results
I was able to get an oil pressure gauge and install it temporarily on the 3GM30F. I definitely have oil pressure, but it was interesting to see the results. I enclosed some vid links in case anyone was interested in hearing/seeing these results. At 2500 rpm immediately after start up the pressure bounced between 40-50 psi. https://youtu.be/Ym6CBjTXG0Q. At 3000 rpms after 15 min run time, the pressure held steady at 62 psi. https://youtu.be/vy_7_X626Yo When backing down throttle to ~800 rpm the pressure bounced around at 20 psi. https://youtu.be/PPxDKUXHUL8 According to the yanmar service manual, pressure at idle should be 7.2 psi and at 3,500 rpm should be 42-57 psi. Not sure what the results actually mean, but I at least know there is pressure and have some form of baseline measurements to assess. Sean Conner/Ladyhawke___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List C 34 - 3GM30F oil pressure warning - theory or solved -Update
Thanks for the replies and insights. After adding the new sensor I motored up and down coast for 60 minutes at 2,800-3,000 rpms. Slowed down every ten minutes to see if low oil pressure alarm sounded at lower rpms. All is good. I think I ran the engine hard enough to recreate the scenario from Sunday. So I'm thinking the new sender did the trick, but I ordered an real gauge and will install that just to validate. Thanks to Josh and others for posting reference info.. I'll post final pics of my "Tee/Gauge/Sender" install and the parts I used. Hopefully next week. Sean Conner/Ladyhawke___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List C 34 - 3GM30F oil pressure warning - theory or solved?
Thanks Mike - I had a full blown alarm but also had a bit of chirping at the "edge of rpm" when the issue would sound the alarm. Jotted down electrical connections as something else to look into as well. But not sure that explains why it would happen at lower rpms. Sean > Subject: Re: Stus-List C 34 - 3GM30F oil pressure warning - theory > or solved? > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi Sean. I had the same "chirping" problem with my 2GM20F. My oil level > was fine. The ground on the sensor was good. So I replaced the sensor, > but still had the chirping. My mechanic came by and we put on a pressure > gauge...pressure was good! > > So, for now I'm just living with the chirping which only seems to happen at > certain rpm. However, I do check my oil level regularly!! > > Mike > Atacama 33mkii > Toronto > > On Mon, Jul 30, 2018, 4:20 PM SEAN CONNER via CnC-List, < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Listers- > > After reading a bunch of old posts about oil pressure warnings, I wanted > > to share this scenario to see if anyone can impart any more wisdom about a > > theory, etc; Our C 34 has a 3GM30F with a couple of thousand hrs. > > Engine runs like a top..change oil, filters, etc. religiously Only issue is > > grey smoke on hard start.. Maybe a small puff of blue, which I understand > > is not that uncommon. No smoke when running under load and no other issues. > > The other day we motored for 1.5 hrs in flat seas and as we reduced RPM's > > the low oil pressure alarm sounded. Killed engine and checked oil- it was > > ~50% so added ~1/3L qt. Checked for oil in bilge, exhaust and water in oil > > and everything was fine. Restarted engine and had same issue. Decided to > > motor back to mooring at about 2,200 rpm. After ~30 min or so, started to > > hear a slight chirping from the alarm and when reduced rpm it seemed to go > > off at an even higher rpm (2,000 maybe?). Shut it down and sailed home for > > 2hrs. Started engine to get to mooring and alarm persisted, but seemed to > > happen at lower rpms (~1,200?). Came home, read up on the digests and > > figured out my troubleshooting plan. First step, replace oil pressure > > switch/sensor. > > > > Today, before replacing the sensor, I decided to start engine and do a > > more precise test on what rpm the alarm was sounded, but I could not > > recreate the issue (!?). Ran engine at 2,600 at mooring for ~15 min and no > > issue. Replaced the sensor anyway and everything seemed fine. > > > > So the question is, did I solve the problem with the new sensor or is > > there another theory that could explain these symptoms? I won't have time > > to run engine at higher rpms for an extended period for a few days, so was > > hoping to get a bit more educated on next steps if the issue resurfaces. > > Will keep the board posted on what I learn and appreciate any other insights > > Thanks > > > > Sean Conner/Ladyhawke > > ___ > > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each > > and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - > > use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > > -- next part -- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: > <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20180730/1e79ef0b/attachment.html> > > -- > > Subject: Digest Footer > > ___ > CnC-List mailing list > CnC-List@cnc-list.com > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com > > > -- > > End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 150, Issue 139 > ** ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List Geared folding props
I had a Martec folding prop on my 34 and upgraded to a flex-o-fold when I repowered to a 3GM30. Originally intended to go with a 2 blade folding Flex-o-Fold, but after doing some research and talking with locals owners, I went with the 3 blade feathering and LOVE IT. Tons of grab in reverse, tons of torque and oomph in a headwind or sea, and in my local fleet what ever I'm losing in speed just doesn't make a difference. I use a "shaft shark" on the prop shaft and have never had any issues with catching debris or seaweed, etc; The prop seems to open and close smoothly without any issues all season long here in new england. I do not use any paint or oils.. just burnish it every season. Sean C C 34/LADYHAWKE > From: Dennis C. via CnC-List > Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 5:52 PM > To: CnClist > Cc: Dennis C. > Subject: Stus-List Geared folding props > > OK, you all know I have a Martec on Touche' and, for the most part, am > satisfied with it. However, if I did change, my inclination would be to > replace it with a geared 2 blade folder. Especially since I think Martec > doesn't make non-geared folders anymore. > > I have a SPECIFIC question for those who have a geared 2 blade folder. > > With your geared 2 blade folder, have any of you noticed a failure to fully > open or close due to marine growth in the gears? > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > ___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Stus-List OEM Thru Hull matching
All, after a bit of research in the archives, I'm posing this question to the group as I work to replace the final two thru hulls on my 34 (head sink and head pump out). From what I've learned the original C OEM thru hulls (Wilcox Crittenden?) are no longer available.Mine are flush mounted, which I'd like to preserve, but the Groco and Buck Algonquin models are a bit smaller in outside diameter than the ones I pulled from the hull. I could go the "fill the gap" route, but getting the recess right is a pita (tried that before) and I'd like to avoid mushroom style if possible. I found Spartan Marine in Georgetown ME and was wondering if anyone knows of these are OEM matches for early C's (1979)... they don't list OD on their website. As always, any other advice is appreciated. After these two, I'll have redone all "holes in boat". Thanks Sean Conner - LADYHAWKE___ The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Yanmar 3GMD replacement on C 34
I replaced and old 2QM20 with a newer 3GM30F in my 34 back in 2014. I had to "shrink" the bed rails but overall the alignment came out good and would have been more complex with a different engine. I had to disassemble parts of the 2QM to get it out.. fuel lift pump, valve cover, etc; it was a pain to haul it out. The 3GM went it much easier. Very pleased with the newer engine...smaller, lighter, quieter and with a three blade flex-o-fold prop there is plenty of "ooomph" when I need it. I have some reference docs on my google drive that has a bunch of info about parts and design. page 9 shows the difference between a 2QM20 and 3GM30F footprint, which I used to create a mock engine and determine how to modify the bed rails. That was key to avoiding a lot of headaches. I put the new engine in once and it fit first time. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9BpHJkI7AfnSXZMdTFPWG90TTQ Sean Conner - LADYHAWKE Hull #134 > Message: 6 > Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 21:14:08 -0600 (MDT) > From: DON JONSSON <dbjons...@shaw.ca> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3GMD replacement on C 34 > Message-ID: > <1197834892.137592424.1505618048221.javamail.zim...@shaw.ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > Hi > > It seems I have a leaking head gasket on my Yanmar engine. It is an old > engine but only has 2,000 hours on it. I'm going to get some quotes on fixing > it but I'm sure it won't be cheap and not sure it won't be a waste on an old > engine. > > The boat is leaking a fair bit of oil which ends up in the bilge. The best > guess when tracing the source is the gasket. Of course the leak is from an > area that is very difficult to get a good look at. The boat has also suddenly > taken to starting very poorly. Anyway those are the symptoms. > > Has any one replaced a similar engine? What with and how did it go? Any > things to watch out for? > > Thanks > Don > Victoria, BC ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Looking for used RF Headsail of 34
Just wanted to thank everyone for the responses. I was able to complete a trade with a fellow lister, but appreciate all the other info that was shared. This is list is invaluable.. sending Stu more $$ Sean Conner C 34 #134- LADYHAWKE > On June 20, 2017 at 6:38 AM SEAN CONNER <conner.s...@comcast.net> wrote: > > > Had a beautiful day sailing off the coast of NH the other day in 15kts, > but unfortunately we blew out our aging genoa. Wondering if any 34 owners > have a good-very good Roller Furling genoa that you might be looking to sell. > I'm looking for something between 130-155%. I'm willing to pay up to $750 > and have a couple of spinnakers (.6 and .75) that I might be willing to > trade. Thanks for the consideration. > > Sean Conner > > C 34 #134, LADYHAWKE > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem
I've been working to trouble shoot a similar problem but with the wireless GWind on my NM2K network. I believe I am getting a voltage drop to the network, but haven't been able to figure out how to fix it. For example, I'll have only my house battery on and then I lose wind readings on the instrument. When I switch to BOTH batteries the wind speed readings resume. As best as I can tell the voltage is dropping down to 11.7 volts when the reading stops. I've calcualted the load on the network per the NMEA 2000 specs and I think I am ok there. So maybe check your voltage on the network as well.. I've enclosed a link to my poor mans network diagram in case it might help anyone else. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9BpHJkI7AfnRjUzaWVvOHJ1MUE/view?usp=sharing Sean Conner C 34 #134 - LADYHAWKE > > Message: 4Date: Wed, 28 Jun 2017 10:38:56 -0400 > From: Donald Sebastian <donaldsebast...@me.com> > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List NMEA 2k wind instrument problem > Message-ID: <7f510942-7282-453e-ae25-3613e24d4...@me.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 > > Double check the installation instructions closely and follow each step > when it comes to setting up the control panel. When I set it up, wind was not > showing as well but everything else was, so I re climbed the mast several > times double checking every connection and found you just had to specify for > it to show in the panel. > > I?ll glance at the control panel later and send you a picture of the > location to set it in the panel. It slightly confusing and I think something > they are aware of because there was special note in the instructions to > connect the wind sensor in a different method than the other sensors. > > Donald > > > > > > On Jun 28, 2017, at 10:15 AM, Chris Hickey via CnC-List > > <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > I've got a NMEA 2k network aboard my C 30, including a Garmin GWS > > 10 wind sensor at the top of the mast. Everything was working well at the > > end of last season, but when I launched and stepped my mast this spring I > > found that the wind speed/direction was not appearing on my instruments. > > The other components (depth, sea temp, speed) appear to be working fine. > > The mast cable attached to the network with a field installable connector > > and I've rechecked those connections and they look good. I've also tried a > > different tee connector to make sure that wasn't the problem, but still no > > luck. > > > > Are there any other tests or diagnostics I can run to determine the > > root of the problem without having to send someone up the mast? I'm > > guessing the possibilities are either a bad connection between the mast > > cable and wind sensor or a failure of the sensor itself, but I'm open to > > any tips or suggestions you might have! > > > > Thanks, > > Chris > > SV Seeker - C 30 > > Holyrood, NL > > > > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Looking for used RF Headsail of 34
Had a beautiful day sailing off the coast of NH the other day in 15kts, but unfortunately we blew out our aging genoa. Wondering if any 34 owners have a good-very good Roller Furling genoa that you might be looking to sell. I'm looking for something between 130-155%. I'm willing to pay up to $750 and have a couple of spinnakers (.6 and .75) that I might be willing to trade. Thanks for the consideration. Sean Conner C 34 #134, LADYHAWKE___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
