Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

I moved my stations to the toerail when I bought my boat in 2000.  I used one 
existing screw on the toerail and had to drill another one to mount the base.  
I made sure that they were lined up with an existing hole in the rail so I 
didn’t have to drill another hole for the screw that holds the stanchion into 
the base.  When I sailed on Lake Ontario and removed the stations every fall 
for my winter tarp I had no problems removing those screws.  Since I’ve been on 
the Atlantic and changed my tarp installation method I don’t have to remove the 
stations.  After a couple years the screws will not come out of the base.  I’ve 
had two bases crack and had to cut them apart to get them off the toerail.  
Luckily I had bought some used bases at a local club’s flea market and this 
time I drilled the hole for the screw that holds the stanchion larger so I 
could use a machine screw and a locknut on it.  Now it won’t seize into the 
base and if it sticks I can just use a small punch to tap it out.

The added room that it makes on the decks is definitely worth the trouble.

 

Rick Taillieu

Nemesis

'75 C 25  #371

Shearwater Yacht Club

Halifax, NS.

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Ahmet via 
CnC-List
Sent: January-25-16 20:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Ahmet
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on 
putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.

I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut under 
the deck.

It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on the 
aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later.

In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room, and 
solid.

Ahmet

1973 C 25 "Tabasco"

Winthrop, MA

 

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used the 
type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At the time I 
think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the $450 you 
mentioned.

 

I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on each of 
the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long enough to 
handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and drill an 
additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to deck joint 
(which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer for backing and 
a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe rail for the (#10, 
IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the stanchion. All told, it took 
about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and it is a 2 man job to install the 
bolts through the hull to deck joint.

 

My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old lifelines in 
the new installation, but YMMV.

 

I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:

 

It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward – even 
though it is only about 5 inches on each side.

The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are vertical  
but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that they thought 
the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which I believe was a 
problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the early 80s).

On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the rail, 
so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft and 
drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.

And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than the 
deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the locations 
where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in the gelcoat, 
but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with resulting leaks into 
the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my projects for this coming 
season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots left behind by the old 
bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect to see any future deck 
repairs; at least in those areas.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers <blhick...@yahoo.com>
Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was 
considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the 
toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be 
screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case 
said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must

Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[Sailnomad via CnC-List]

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:46 PM, Ahmet  wrote:

> I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant
> on putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.
> I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut
> under the deck.
> It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on
> the aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later.
> In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room,
> and solid.
> Ahmet
> 1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
> Winthrop, MA
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used
>> the type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At
>> the time I think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the
>> $450 you mentioned.
>>
>>
>>
>> I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on
>> each of the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long
>> enough to handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and
>> drill an additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to
>> deck joint (which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer
>> for backing and a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe
>> rail for the (#10, IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the
>> stanchion. All told, it took about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and
>> it is a 2 man job to install the bolts through the hull to deck joint.
>>
>>
>>
>> My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old
>> lifelines in the new installation, but YMMV.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:
>>
>>
>>
>> It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward –
>> even though it is only about 5 inches on each side.
>>
>> The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are
>> vertical  but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that
>> they thought the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which
>> I believe was a problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the
>> early 80s).
>>
>> On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the
>> rail, so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft
>> and drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.
>>
>> And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than
>> the deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the
>> locations where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in
>> the gelcoat, but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with
>> resulting leaks into the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my
>> projects for this coming season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots
>> left behind by the old bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect
>> to see any future deck repairs; at least in those areas.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *Barbara
>> Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
>> *To:* C List 
>> *Cc:* Barbara Hickson Fellers 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases
>>
>>
>>
>> I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and
>> was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the
>> toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be
>> screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case
>> said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru
>> your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My
>> toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this
>> sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and
>> MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.
>> Barbara L. Hickson
>>
>> "Flight Risk" C 33-1
>>
>> Chas., SC.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

too much work and expense for very little gain, but if you like it do it

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 12:05 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and
> was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the
> toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be
> screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case
> said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru
> your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My
> toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this
> sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and
> MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.
> Barbara L. Hickson
> "Flight Risk" C 33-1
> Chas., SC.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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page at:
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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[John and Sue Fletcher via CnC-List]

I moved mine on our 33-1 nine years ago and was very happy.  That three inches 
makes a huge difference.  The bases i used also angled the stanchions a little 
outboard which gives you a much more open feel swinging past the shrouds and 
moving around on the foredeck.  Be aware the life lines will likely be too 
short mine were but I knew that going in and since it was time to upgrade them 
anyway it allowed me to relocate the stanchions to put the gates where I wanted 
them.  I do have to be a little careful docking on fingers with vertical posts  
as it is possible to hook a stanchion on a post if wind and waves are alligned

John Fletcher  CnC 33-1  Peregrine  

From: Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:05 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was 
considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the 
toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be 
screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case 
said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru your 
rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My toerail 
holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this sounds like 
a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and MAYBE get a 
better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated. 
Barbara L. Hickson 
"Flight Risk" C 33-1
Chas., SC. 



___

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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used the 
type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At the time I 
think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the $450 you 
mentioned.

 

I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on each of 
the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long enough to 
handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and drill an 
additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to deck joint 
(which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer for backing and 
a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe rail for the (#10, 
IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the stanchion. All told, it took 
about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and it is a 2 man job to install the 
bolts through the hull to deck joint.

 

My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old lifelines in 
the new installation, but YMMV.

 

I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:

 

It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward – even 
though it is only about 5 inches on each side.

The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are vertical  
but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that they thought 
the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which I believe was a 
problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the early 80s).

On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the rail, 
so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft and 
drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.

And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than the 
deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the locations 
where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in the gelcoat, 
but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with resulting leaks into 
the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my projects for this coming 
season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots left behind by the old 
bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect to see any future deck 
repairs; at least in those areas.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara 
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Barbara Hickson Fellers 
Subject: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

 

I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and was 
considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the 
toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be 
screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case 
said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru your 
rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My toerail 
holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this sounds like 
a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and MAYBE get a 
better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated. 
Barbara L. Hickson 

"Flight Risk" C 33-1

Chas., SC. 

___

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Re: Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

I did the same on my 25. Although it is probably stronger, I am hesitant on
putting too much load, so that I don't bend the toerail.
I did actually tapped the toerail to reduce the load on the washer/nut
under the deck.
It will probably be a b**ch to get it out, having the stainless bolts on
the aluminum rail, but I'll worry about that later.
In general, I love the conversion. No more leaks on the decks, more room,
and solid.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 6:47 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I switched the stanchion bases on my 38 a few years ago. I believe I used
> the type C base from South Shore, which I see are up to $75 each now. At
> the time I think they were less than $50, and the whole job cost about the
> $450 you mentioned.
>
>
>
> I did reuse one of the existing 5/16 machine screws in the toe rail on
> each of the stanchion bases. The existing machine screws are more than long
> enough to handle the added thickness of the base. I did have to mark and
> drill an additional hole in the base of the toe rail & through the hull to
> deck joint (which took a ¼-20x3” or 3 ½” machine screw plus fender washer
> for backing and a Nylok nut), plus a hole in the vertical part of the toe
> rail for the (#10, IIRC) screw that secures the base and locks in the
> stanchion. All told, it took about 5 or 6 hours to do the installation, and
> it is a 2 man job to install the bolts through the hull to deck joint.
>
>
>
> My lifelines had enough adjustment in the toggles to reuse the old
> lifelines in the new installation, but YMMV.
>
>
>
> I’m happy I did the change for the following reasons:
>
>
>
> It is amazing how much extra room you feel you have when going forward –
> even though it is only about 5 inches on each side.
>
> The hole for the stanchion is tilted inward, so the stanchions are
> vertical  but within the perimeter of the boat (someone else mentioned that
> they thought the stanchions might be tilted out and catch on pilings, which
> I believe was a problem with the 29-2, 33-2, and other models from the
> early 80s).
>
> On my boat the vertical leg of the toe rail is on the inboard side of the
> rail, so the stanchion base is on the outside of the rail. Water sheets aft
> and drains a lot better than it ever did with the deck mounted stanchions.
>
> And most importantly, the toe rail mounted bases seem to be stronger than
> the deck mounted ones. I had to repair the deck and cracks in all the
> locations where the deck mounted bases had been. Some were just cracks in
> the gelcoat, but others were actual damage to the skin of the deck with
> resulting leaks into the core. Refinishing the deck is also one of my
> projects for this coming season – partly to make up for the unsightly spots
> left behind by the old bases. With the new stanchion bases I don’t expect
> to see any future deck repairs; at least in those areas.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Barbara
> Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2016 11:06 AM
> *To:* C List 
> *Cc:* Barbara Hickson Fellers 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Toerail mounted stanchion bases
>
>
>
> I'm going to paint and re-nonskid my deck when the weather stabilizes and
> was considering the value of moving the stanchions outboard to mount on the
> toerail. I was under the impression that the toerail mounted bases would be
> screwed into the rail using the same holes but a longer bolt.  Not the case
> said Holland Marine when I was inquiring. You must drill new holes thru
> your rail to use the new bases. Is this right? Has anyone done this?  My
> toerail holes are 3.94" on center. In addition to the cost($450 USD), this
> sounds like a ton of work to add a couple of inches to the side decks and
> MAYBE get a better sheet lead. Any thoughts or opinions appreciated.
> Barbara L. Hickson
>
> "Flight Risk" C 33-1
>
> Chas., SC.
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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