Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Hi David, Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just that. All your questions are really straightforward. Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I just wrestled my old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it. The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. Through-Hulls None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the Canadian CC's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all everytime I leave the boat and they works well, Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All cockpit /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / sport boat style. On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well designed. No need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline at rest There's no quadrant well. On my boat The rudder shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the cockpit sub-floor. All that is easily accessible by simply removing the triangular fiberglass cover. Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat / other questions of you want. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Message-ID: snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I said appear to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the thru-hull. First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is completely inaccessible. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank. If anyone else has done this job and has any suggestions, I'm all ears. Second, the thru-hulls themselves. There are 4 thru-hulls just under the transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank steering quadrant well, and the bilge pump. All 4 are plastic mushroom-head thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a new marelon one. Question: none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on them, which seems odd (and unwise) to me because they appear to be below the waterline. What are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the new thru hull while I'm at it? I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with new thru-hull and valves. Am I just being paranoid? Thanks all. I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering the heck out of this board! -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Thanks for all the info François! Yes I've come to accept that those stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted waterline says. I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while I'm in there. Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank! You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank compartment under the quadrant panel. I like that the cockpit doesn't need scuppers! While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these boats? AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging. Yes she's been only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause. Have you rerigged yet? Dave 1990 34+ Faith Anne Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2 Original message From: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Hi David, Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just that. All your questions are really straightforward. Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I just wrestled my old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it. The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. Through-Hulls None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the Canadian CC's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all everytime I leave the boat and they works well, Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All cockpit /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / sport boat style. On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well designed. No need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline at rest There's no quadrant well. On my boat The rudder shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the cockpit sub-floor. All that is easily accessible by simply removing the triangular fiberglass cover. Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat / other questions of you want. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Message-ID: snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I said appear to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the thru-hull. First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is completely inaccessible. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank. If anyone else has done
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Rod Rigging. Mine is also original and the boat has been freshwater for all its life except for 4 years. I discussed the rig with one of the few (And be most accounts: the best) factory certified Navtec guys in the southeast (Rick Zern) and his advice was: Have your local guy take a look at it (While it's down if possible) or you can look at it yourself. Here's what you look for: No kinks, make sure the tangs (mast attachment ball / socket joints) are not deformed, can rotate smoothly, and are free of rust. Same with the eyes / toggles / turnbuckles: free of rust, smooth turning. If that passes muster, don't worry about it. As you know, rod riggings are extremely stout and don't really stretch much at all. If it has been abused, mistreated, or over-stressed in a storm, the aluminum mast structure around the tang area will deform, same for the threads on the turnbuckles: They will get distorted long before the rods or heads get damaged. Rick told me that being a certfied Navtec rigger he decided to remove his and have it lab tested. Keep in mind his boat (J-boat) had been raced hard in salt water for 15-20+ years / his rod rigging was original. Results after the dye and destructive tests done: Nothing wrong. In his words: It was a waste of money and efforts. His words (Again) if you're about to embark on extended ocean crossing passages then by all means spend the money to get work done as insurance. For the rest of us lake and coastal cruisers: Keep sailing and taking reasonable care of your rig. Regards, -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA From: davepulaski davepula...@hotmail.com To: Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 06/15/2015 11:26 AM Subject:RE: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Thanks for all the info François! Yes I've come to accept that those stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted waterline says. I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while I'm in there. Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank! You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank compartment under the quadrant panel. I like that the cockpit doesn't need scuppers! While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these boats? AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging. Yes she's been only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause. Have you rerigged yet? Dave 1990 34+ Faith Anne Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2 Original message From: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Hi David, Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just that. All your questions are really straightforward. Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I just wrestled my old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it. The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. Through-Hulls None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the Canadian CC's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all everytime I leave the boat and they works well, Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All cockpit /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / sport boat style. On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well designed. No need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline at rest There's no quadrant well. On my boat The rudder shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
FWIW, Navtec recommends re-heading every 10 years or 10,000 miles. Joel 35/3 The Office On Mon, Jun 15, 2015 at 12:15 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Rod Rigging. Mine is also original and the boat has been freshwater for all its life except for 4 years. I discussed the rig with one of the few (And be most accounts: the best) factory certified Navtec guys in the southeast (Rick Zern) and his advice was: Have your local guy take a look at it (While it's down if possible) or you can look at it yourself. Here's what you look for: No kinks, make sure the tangs (mast attachment ball / socket joints) are not deformed, can rotate smoothly, and are free of rust. Same with the eyes / toggles / turnbuckles: free of rust, smooth turning. If that passes muster, don't worry about it. As you know, rod riggings are extremely stout and don't really stretch much at all. If it has been abused, mistreated, or over-stressed in a storm, the aluminum mast structure around the tang area will deform, same for the threads on the turnbuckles: They will get distorted long before the rods or heads get damaged. Rick told me that being a certfied Navtec rigger he decided to remove his and have it lab tested. Keep in mind his boat (J-boat) had been raced hard in salt water for 15-20+ years / his rod rigging was original. Results after the dye and destructive tests done: Nothing wrong. In his words: It was a waste of money and efforts. His words (Again) if you're about to embark on extended ocean crossing passages then by all means spend the money to get work done as insurance. For the rest of us lake and coastal cruisers: Keep sailing and taking reasonable care of your rig. Regards, -Francois 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA From:davepulaski davepula...@hotmail.com To:Jean-Francois J Rivard/Atlanta/IBM@IBMUS, cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date:06/15/2015 11:26 AM Subject:RE: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls -- Thanks for all the info François! Yes I've come to accept that those stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted waterline says. I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while I'm in there. Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank! You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank compartment under the quadrant panel. I like that the cockpit doesn't need scuppers! While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these boats? AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging. Yes she's been only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause. Have you rerigged yet? Dave 1990 34+ Faith Anne Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2 Original message From: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Hi David, Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just that. All your questions are really straightforward. Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I just wrestled my old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it. The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. Through-Hulls None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the Canadian CC's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all everytime I leave the boat and they works well, Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All cockpit /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / sport boat style. On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well designed. No need
Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
I have seen that, which is the lawyer approved, blanket cover, we're in the business of selling you more new stuff statement. I did ask Rick about that he said: It depends where the boat is used / how it's used / what conditions it sails or stays in. If in doubt, have it looked at by a qualified rigger (I did) Regards, -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take five Lake Lanier, GA Message: 2 Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2015 12:22:13 -0400 From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Message-ID: cael16p88jc+oczwqqva+m7p3u-iddjjzusmj_qbdyd6k5k-...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 FWIW, Navtec recommends re-heading every 10 years or 10,000 miles. Joel 35/3 The Office Regards ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Stainless steel would be a much better choice than Marlon if you do decide to replace the exhaust through hull. And a proper exhaust through hull will have a flap built into it that will keep a following sea from entering the exhaust hose (and a loop at least 18” above the waterline between the muffler and the through hull to ensure that water does not get into the muffler and engine). When I replaced the transom exhaust on Imzadi in 2010 (the OEM fitting was 1 ½” and pointed up at about 20-30 degrees, and sprayed a rooster tail out the back of the boat), I bought a 2” exhaust through hull on EBay for a bit over $50. Here is an example that is on EBay right now, though it is probably too large in diameter for your boat: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Dog-Corp-Exhaust-Thru-Hull-2-1-2-SS-521125-/141686562677?hash=item20fd2d5f75 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sea-Dog-Corp-Exhaust-Thru-Hull-2-1-2-SS-521125-/141686562677?hash=item20fd2d5f75vxp=mtr vxp=mtr Rick Brass Imzadi CC 38 mk 2 la Belle Aurore CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of davepulaski via CnC-List Sent: Monday, June 15, 2015 11:26 AM To: Jean-Francois J Rivard; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: davepulaski Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Thanks for all the info François! Yes I've come to accept that those stern thru-hulls are in fact above DWL, regardless of what the painted waterline says. I'm leaning towards not going to seacocks now, probably will at least replace the old thru-hull though with a new marelon one while I'm in there. Thanks for the tip on jacking up the fuel tank! You're correct - the 2 small lines are for draining the propane tank compartment under the quadrant panel. I like that the cockpit doesn't need scuppers! While I have you - what are your thoughts on the rod rigging on these boats? AFAIK, she has all her original standing rigging. Yes she's been only in fresh water so far, but the age still gives me pause. Have you rerigged yet? Dave 1990 34+ Faith Anne Sent from my T-Mobile Galaxy Note 2 Original message From: Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.com mailto:jfriv...@us.ibm.com Date: 06/15/2015 10:45 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: davepula...@hotmail.com mailto:davepula...@hotmail.com Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Hi David, Congrats on getting the 34+. I've owned mine for 3 years and still think I could not have possibly gotten a better boat for what we do. The promise is that is gives you plentiful room and comfort at the marina / anchor and runs like a bat out of he$$ around the cans.. It does just that. All your questions are really straightforward. Exhaust hose: I replaced mine last year, it's not that bad. Your idea of connecting the old one to the new one is excellent. I just wrestled my old one out and taped a fiberglass wiring rod to the new one to pull some / guide it. The trick is to remove all the aft stateroom cushions then remove the fuel tank access panel and the wooden blocks that are screwed / wedged-in securing the fuel tank and find a way to jack-up tank to facilitate threading the new hose in under it ( I used 2 x 2's) . The challenge to thread the new hose is to line it up between the exposed strut bolts. Stick to the original hose construction / diameter and you'll be fine. It's a bit of a sweaty wrestling match but you and 1 other guy should be able to knock it out in less than 1 hour. Through-Hulls None of what you mentioned is below the waterline at rest. They get dipped-in some when motoring or sailing in excess of 5 or so knots but that's nothing that the standard siphon loops can't handle. The 34+ is the last of the Canadian CC's and after 35 + odd years of designing racer cruisers they had it down.. Rob Ball knew what he was doing. FYI, all through hulls on mine are Marelon. I close them all everytime I leave the boat and they works well, Also, there are no cockpit or deck scuppers on the boat. All cockpit /deck water simply flows out the stern / swim platform area in a modern open stern / sport boat style. On my boat there's a drain for the propane locker, also well designed. No need to seal / mess with it as propane is heavier than air and flows down the drain like water with its exit above the waterline at rest There's no quadrant well. On my boat The rudder shaft goes up to the quadrant that is mounted on top and flush with the cockpit sub-floor. All that is easily accessible by simply removing the triangular fiberglass cover. Feel free to PM me for more details on how to tune the boat / other questions of you want. -Francois Rivard 1990 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier, GA Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls Message-ID: snt152-w7315fc52d9f459dde543fda0...@phx.gbl mailto:snt152
Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the thru-hull. First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is completely inaccessible. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank. If anyone else has done this job and has any suggestions, I'm all ears. Second, the thru-hulls themselves. There are 4 thru-hulls just under the transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank steering quadrant well, and the bilge pump. All 4 are plastic mushroom-head thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a new marelon one. Question: none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on them, which seems odd (and unwise) to me because they appear to be below the waterline. What are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the new thru hull while I'm at it? I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with new thru-hull and valves. Am I just being paranoid? Thanks all. I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering the heck out of this board! -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
[Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits] Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the bootstripe and close to the rudder. You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does. On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski davepula...@hotmail.com wrote: I said appear to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
We had this issue on both our 34+ and 51. Yes, the original design was without seacocks as they are just above the waterline and hide neatly under the transom skirt. Heeled and under power is a different story and they will be under water. it came up on a few surveys and rightfully so. We never did add seacocks to either boat but it was always an area we kept an eye on. Insurance carriers today may not be as forgiving. BTW - the 34+ is an incredible boat. We raced ours on Wednesday nights, weekended on her and ultimately took her offshore to the caribbean. Just my $.02 John On Jun 14, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Assuming your boat sits on the lines it was designed for, those through hulls should be just above the waterline and I'd typical for the Rob Ball designs of late 80s early 90s. It will only be a couple of inches above WL but they were very smartly designed to remain so (at anchor) and they keep the transom uncluttered and clean. I consider it a one of the more refined design moves that separates earlier cncs from the Ball era, my 2 cents. Sounds like PO could have raised boot and bottom paint, but hard to tell w/o a picture. The 34+ seems like a great boat and I hope to have one in the future... On Sun, Jun 14, 2015, 10:45 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: [Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits] Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the bootstripe and close to the rudder. You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does. On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski davepula...@hotmail.com mailto:davepula...@hotmail.com wrote: I said appear to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Assuming your boat sits on the lines it was designed for, those through hulls should be just above the waterline and I'd typical for the Rob Ball designs of late 80s early 90s. It will only be a couple of inches above WL but they were very smartly designed to remain so (at anchor) and they keep the transom uncluttered and clean. I consider it a one of the more refined design moves that separates earlier cncs from the Ball era, my 2 cents. Sounds like PO could have raised boot and bottom paint, but hard to tell w/o a picture. The 34+ seems like a great boat and I hope to have one in the future... On Sun, Jun 14, 2015, 10:45 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: [Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits] Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the bootstripe and close to the rudder. You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does. On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski davepula...@hotmail.com wrote: I said appear to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
Regarding seacocks on transom thruhulls - what do you mean by they appear to be below the waterline? Either they are or they aren't, and it should be pretty easy to determine this (are they submerged or not when the boat is at the dock?). I'm not familiar with the 34+ but looking at some pictures on Google Images it looks like the transom is similar to the LF38, which would mean the exhaust thruhull and others are above waterline, but can be submerged when you're pitching a lot in a wavy sea state. The recommendation for seacocks is have them on every thruhull that is below the heeled waterline. Whether you consider transom thruhulls that are 6-12 above waterline as being below the heeled waterline is probably debateable. What I've heard is most people don't bother with them (especially since access to them is usually a giant pain, so the seacock would rarely be closed) - *unless* you plan to go offshore a bunch. Although even offshore if a hose pulled off you could probably just stick a wooden plug in (or potato or any of the other thruhull plugging devices). So it's a matter of personal preference / your own paranoia level. I'm pretty paranoid about below waterline thruhulls but for the transom ones I've decided there are bigger risks to fry first. -Patrick CC LF38 Seattle, WA On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 9:00 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: From: David Pulaski davepula...@hotmail.com To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 11:16:14 -0400 Subject: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls So I'm the proud new owner of a '90 34+, and the first project I bit off was replacement of the exhaust hose from the muffer back, including the thru-hull. First off, this is not going to be fun because the hose runs under the fuel tank and span of the cockpit under the water heater where it is completely inaccessible. I'm hoping I'll be able to pull the new hose through by clamping it to the old hose with a double-ended barb, but it seems like it's an awful tight fit under the tank. If anyone else has done this job and has any suggestions, I'm all ears. Second, the thru-hulls themselves. There are 4 thru-hulls just under the transom - the exhaust, the two drains for the propane tank steering quadrant well, and the bilge pump. All 4 are plastic mushroom-head thru-hulls, and I want to replace at least the exhaust thru-hull with a new marelon one. Question: none of these thru-hulls have seacocks on them, which seems odd (and unwise) to me because they appear to be below the waterline. What are your thoughts on putting a marelon ball valve on the new thru hull while I'm at it? I'm tempted to replace all 4 of them with new thru-hull and valves. Am I just being paranoid? Thanks all. I'm thrilled to have this boat and I'm sure I'll be pestering the heck out of this board! -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
I said appear to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne From: jda...@gmail.com Date: Sun, 14 Jun 2015 09:57:14 -0700 Subject: Re: 34+ transom thru-hulls To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; davepula...@hotmail.com Regarding seacocks on transom thruhulls - what do you mean by they appear to be below the waterline? Either they are or they aren't, and it should be pretty easy to determine this (are they submerged or not when the boat is at the dock?). I'm not familiar with the 34+ but looking at some pictures on Google Images it looks like the transom is similar to the LF38, which would mean the exhaust thruhull and others are above waterline, but can be submerged when you're pitching a lot in a wavy sea state. The recommendation for seacocks is have them on every thruhull that is below the heeled waterline. Whether you consider transom thruhulls that are 6-12 above waterline as being below the heeled waterline is probably debateable. What I've heard is most people don't bother with them (especially since access to them is usually a giant pain, so the seacock would rarely be closed) - *unless* you plan to go offshore a bunch. Although even offshore if a hose pulled off you could probably just stick a wooden plug in (or potato or any of the other thruhull plugging devices). So it's a matter of personal preference / your own paranoia level. I'm pretty paranoid about below waterline thruhulls but for the transom ones I've decided there are bigger risks to fry first. -PatrickCC LF38Seattle, WA ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls
The thruhulls are above water at rest but must be under a few inches of water when sailing or when motoring at speed. I wouldn't be too concerned about the drains, but might add a shutoff valve to the engine exhaust? I don't have one, but I've seen it mentioned in most books for offshore safety. It protects the engine from getting seawater driven into the engine possible under very rare circumstances. The exhaust hose is meant to have a large loop high up inside the lazarette by design, so the engine has to build up exhaust pressure to lift the water up inside the muffler, and blow it out the hose. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: John Pennie via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: John Pennie j...@svpaws.net Sent: Sunday, June 14, 2015 2:57:31 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List 34+ transom thru-hulls We had this issue on both our 34+ and 51. Yes, the original design was without seacocks as they are just above the waterline and hide neatly under the transom skirt. Heeled and under power is a different story and they will be under water. it came up on a few surveys and rightfully so. We never did add seacocks to either boat but it was always an area we kept an eye on. Insurance carriers today may not be as forgiving. BTW - the 34+ is an incredible boat. We raced ours on Wednesday nights, weekended on her and ultimately took her offshore to the caribbean. Just my $.02 John On Jun 14, 2015, at 2:37 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Assuming your boat sits on the lines it was designed for, those through hulls should be just above the waterline and I'd typical for the Rob Ball designs of late 80s early 90s. It will only be a couple of inches above WL but they were very smartly designed to remain so (at anchor) and they keep the transom uncluttered and clean. I consider it a one of the more refined design moves that separates earlier cncs from the Ball era, my 2 cents. Sounds like PO could have raised boot and bottom paint, but hard to tell w/o a picture. The 34+ seems like a great boat and I hope to have one in the future... On Sun, Jun 14, 2015, 10:45 AM Patrick Davin via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: blockquote [Resending to list with your image removed since it exceeded msg size limits] Oh, yeah those look below waterline, I would want seacocks on them. I was thinking your transom extended further back + up, but those are below the bootstripe and close to the rudder. You could also combine the two scuppers into one outlet and then plug or remove a thruhull so you have one fewer. I assume those are deck scuppers and not cockpit scuppers. That's how my deck scuppers are setup, and they don't need rapid self bailing like the cockpit does. On Sun, Jun 14, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David Pulaski davepula...@hotmail.com wrote: blockquote I said appear to be below the waterline because the boat's not in the water, isn't going in the water anytime soon, and I've never actually seen one of these in the water :) All four thru-hulls are under the transom counter and below the boot stripe as well as below the waterline as defined by the existing bottom paint, so I have to assume they are submerged with the boat floating level. Given their location in the bowels of the stern lazarettes, I know accessing them is a pain but I'm paranoid enough that I'd close them when I'm leaving the boat on her mooring and not returning for a span of days at a time. On second though, I'd have to leave the two small ones open because those are scuppers, so no sense in valves on them at all. Here's a pic of the two port side thru hulls, big one is the exhaust. 2 more on the stbd side in the same configuration. blockquote -Dave 1990 CC 34+ Faith Anne /blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com /blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com /blockquote ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
