Stus-List Epoxy or not

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

I purchased Alegria in 2006.  Th teak was in and shapebut could have been 
lots worse.  I sanded to fresh teak, applied 3 coats of Cetol and 2 to coats of 
clear per their instructions.  Going on 12 years later with only a scotchbright 
ruff up and cleaning.I have a few dings to clean up, but, it is basically 
holding up well.  Tapeing the handrails is a bit of a pain but they look great. 
Spencer Johnson 84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165Mount Prospect IL / Racine WI___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Marc Boyd via CnC-List]

Thanks. Very good tip, which I shall apply once the weather gets better

Marc.

> On Feb 20, 2019, at 11:22 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Cetol light;  3 coats with 3 coats of clear over.  No orangy tinge and rugged.
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 11:52 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> Hi Marc
>  
> Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a brush 
> to apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better than a 
> weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in my 
> experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is varnish.
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marc Boyd 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Marc Boyd
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> Hi Mike,
>  
> Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light? And, 
> do you apply by cloth or brush...or?
>  
> In the cabin of our C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled. 
> Interested in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?
>  
> Cheers,
>  
> Marc
>  
> On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
> maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
> Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
> wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
> every year or two.
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season. 
>  Done. 
> 
> From my Android
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
> To: 1 CnC List
> Cc: Jim Watts
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol. 
> I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
> cover it, you don't need epoxy.
> One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to 
> wood them down and start over.
>  
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>  
>  
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
> wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the 
> epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may 
> have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy 
> will last for life and keep the wood sealed. 
> 
> Steve
>  
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> --
> marc.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David via CnC-List]

Cetol light;  3 coats with 3 coats of clear over.  No orangy tinge and rugged.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.


Hi Marc



Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a brush to 
apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better than a 
weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in my 
experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is varnish.



Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>









From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marc Boyd 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marc Boyd
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



Hi Mike,



Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light? And, do 
you apply by cloth or brush...or?



In the cabin of our C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled. Interested 
in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?



Cheers,



Marc



On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
every year or two.



Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.

>From my Android





From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.

I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.

One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC





On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve



---- Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

--

marc.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Marc

Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a brush to 
apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better than a 
weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in my 
experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is varnish.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marc Boyd 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marc Boyd
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Hi Mike,

Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light? And, do 
you apply by cloth or brush...or?

In the cabin of our C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled. Interested 
in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?

Cheers,

Marc

On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
every year or two.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.
From my Android


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

---- Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
--
marc.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Marc Boyd via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light?
And, do you apply by cloth or brush...or?

In the cabin of our C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled.
Interested in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?

Cheers,

Marc

On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one
> maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use
> Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished
> wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance
> coats every year or two.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
>
> I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per
> season.  Done.
>
> From my Android
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
> *Cc:* Jim Watts
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
>
> I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
>
> I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you
> can cover it, you don't need epoxy.
>
> One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to
> wood them down and start over.
>
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into
> the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since
> the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You
> may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating
> epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed.
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
marc.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
every year or two.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.
>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List epoxy or not

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

Yeah we may covet the non maintenance of stainless down here in the south but 
we are heat avoidant. 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Tuesday, February 19, 2019, 10:19 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
    cnc-list@cnc-list.com

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
    http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
    cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com

You can reach the person managing the list at
    cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com

When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."


Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Hull windows (Jim Watts)
  2. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Matthew L. Wolford)
  3. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Frederick G Street)
  4. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Dreuge)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 20:39:10 -0800
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull windows
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Some boats can look good with hull windows, and properly engineered they
should not be a strength factor in the hull.
http://www.iconsailing.com/assets/homepage/k1087.jpg
Some boats look hideous with hull windows, and look like the boat will fold
on the dotted line.
https://www.oysteryachts.com/images/yachts/46/oyster_745_75ft_yacht_at_sea_on_body_of_water.jpg
It depends...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 at 05:41, Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I would love to have Windows in the hull.
> But, as you mention they are always Ugly.
> For sure fitting them into an existing hull that was not built for it,
> would be very unwise.  There needs to be careful structure changes if a
> window is fitted . . . . .
> I dreamed of a full length stripe that was a window set into the hull,
> with occasional openings inside.  You could get the windows and a good
> looking boat. Alas, pretty hard to accomplish. The differing expansion and
> contraction of different materials with temperature changes, etc.
> Some of the Baltic's these days have opening 'doors' in the hull.  You can
> imagine the engineering that goes into something like that to make the boat
> safe . . . . .
> Maybe in my next life . . . . .
>
> Rob Ball.  C 34
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
-- next part --
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: 
<http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20190218/6212e003/attachment-0001.html>

--

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2019 00:04:22 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Bev:

    Given that you started off with ?Just doing the teak handrails,? I assume 
that your interest is limited to ?how? and not ?whether.?  If you are 
considering going to stainless, I have done so on two boats and have been very 
pleased.  However: a) stainless (although stronger and maintenance free) can be 
a little slippery when wet; and b) despite Herculean template efforts, we were 
never able to get the bolts on the replacement rails lined up perfectly with 
the old bolts holes, so some filling and drilling was required.  On my 34, the 
handrail came with bolts welded in place, so we could see where the holes 
needed to go (they still needed to be oversized for some installation ?play?).  
On my current boat, the handrail design had changed, and the ?feet? have nuts 
welded in place (so you use regular bolts from the inside).  To deal with this, 
I screwed some small pieces of threaded rod into the feet so I could determine 
where the bolt holes should go.  In addition, the heat of welding the nuts in 
place can distort threads, and Whitewater Marine did not re-tap the threads on 
the feet as they should have.  As a result, we broke off two bolts on my 
current boat before we figured out what was going on.  In short, going to 
stainless will likely be more of a project, but they?re very strong, 
maintenance free, and you?ll only do it once.

    If you are only concerned about whether or not to epoxy, my understanding 
is that if water gets into epoxy-entombed wood, the wood can rot from the 
inside without fair warning.  Probably better to go with a UV-protectant 
varnish which, unlike with stainless, you will be doing again someday.

    Good luck.

    Matt

From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 10:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John 

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David via CnC-List]

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Replaced mine with ss here on Lake Ontario and never looked back.  Huge epoxy 
fan but I Don’t think I would epoxy teak, you’ll be maintaining the varnish 
anyway.  I don’t think the epoxy adds any real benefit. 

Dave 
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 19, 2019, at 6:44 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> Whoa – that’s the best of both worlds – and driving  distance for the kid!
> Good find, Dennis!
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 6:18 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> Why not plastic teak handrails?
>  
> https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
> was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who 
> went that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I 
> grabbed ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn The impression I got was 
> that a hot rail is a safety concern.  
>  
> I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go. 
>   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
> outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half 
> as much.
>  
>  
>  
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
>  
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yes I like that stuff! I think Beneteau (cough) also uses it just for a nice 
toe rail on newer models.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Feb 19, 2019, at 6:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Why not plastic teak handrails?

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://nam03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C0a0f3bb277994870403408d696c09163%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636862151141200031sdata=%2FwmHX8DopxMuqm6U2%2FzehhIuvYWaDjSbYgRRZiGlKY8%3Dreserved=0

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Whoa – that’s the best of both worlds – and driving  distance for the kid!

Good find, Dennis! 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 6:18 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

 

Why not plastic teak handrails?

 

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-listcom> > wrote:

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn The impression I got was that a hot 
rail is a safety concern.  

 

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Why not plastic teak handrails?

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.
> I was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend
> who went that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his
> rails, I grabbed ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The
> impression I got was that a hot rail is a safety concern.
>
> I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to
> go.   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents
> such as  outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost
> nearly half as much.
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you
can cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to
wood them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into
> the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since
> the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You
> may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating
> epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed.
>
> Steve
>
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed. 
Steve
 

 Original Message Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.From: Bev Parslow <bparslo...@yahoo.ca>Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pmTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Starboard.  Probably could.

From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. 
I guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

  Marek
  1994 C270 Legato
  Ottawa, ON

  From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Dreuge 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

  I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

  I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go. 
  While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



  -
  Paul E.
  1981 C Landfall 38 
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Fort Walton Beach, FL

  http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



  ___

  Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855813888sdata=yE%2F4PfPJgYp6C0JgeibpjQ9egUYWhP8poDVWL3KS25A%3Dreserved=0





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 I second Jim's solution with the handrail covers, I have two sets...one for 
summer and one for winter layup..., I'm thinking about a cover for my 
cover...or maybe not... 
 
Richard
 
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; currently between floods...

Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2019 11:32 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

  My solution was to have some Sunbrella covers made for the wood handrails.  
Takes nearly all the maintenance work away.  Haven’t touched them in 3 years.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 
 Get Outlook for iOS  

   
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Plastic? Stainless?   Sorry, I am sure they are great, but I am an OEM kind of 
guy...teak.
That said, I made a new set of handrails for my C 36 six years ago.
varnished with Minwax spar varnish.  Still going strong in northern latitudes.
I think the secret to varnish is to seal all sides, then apply at least 5, and 
7 better, coats with just a light sanding between.  Most, including me on 
passion, quite too soon because three coats looks pretty good, but fails to 
provide the uv protection and depth of finish needed to last outdoors.
I would not epoxy.  Does little more than varnish in this application and more 
difficult to remove when it comes time to do so.
Just my 2 cents.  Don't mean to offend anyone.
Bill Walker 
C 36
Pentwater, Mi.


Bill Walker 
On Tuesday, February 19, 2019 John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?

Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor). 
Marek1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON From: Dreuge via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not. I’m a big 
stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I was 
seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard 
equivalent) may be the way to go.   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit 
pricey, there are equivalents such as  outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE 
sign boards which cost nearly half as much.   -
Paul E.1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Mon, 
18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855813888sdata=yE%2F4PfPJgYp6C0JgeibpjQ9egUYWhP8poDVWL3KS25A%3Dreserved=0


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsvjohannarose.blogspot.com%2F=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855753840=xnTu%2FkqdP8Q5Gk6N%2BDnBN9QB7O8g61GAcHoi4WEHpgI%3D=0>

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwhitewatermarine.com%2F=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855763851=%2BlJmMsLW3DZ8ygGJW14TOERWdMWCtJrU47vq8eLzW9Y%3D=0>

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855783867=jnBibdDcoiadPR5Jj%2FdvjJSKAPIH1SGMhBUmRC2GGb4%3D=0>

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurraydata=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855813888sdata=yE%2F4PfPJgYp6C0JgeibpjQ9egUYWhP8poDVWL3KS25A%3Dreserved=0

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

My solution was to have some Sunbrella covers made for the wood 
handrails.  Takes nearly all the maintenance work away.  Haven’t touched them 
in 3 years.
Jim ReinardyC 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



Get Outlook for iOS

  




On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 9:11 PM -0600, "John Conklin via CnC-List" 
 wrote:




















Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ


 


 


John Conklin


 


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 9:15:43 PM

To: C List

Cc: Josh Muckley

Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
 


Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid 
$100 for each rail.  Custom made to fit the original holes.



Whitewatermarine.com



https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA





Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD










On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray













___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsvjohannarose.blogspot.com%2F=02%7C01%7C%7C11db45417d9a404204a608d6967da363%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861863682904459=3kVXRy0Oq%2BUH6hTqzZHy9or%2FrmFeLyXjhf0V%2FZUTE5A%3D=0>

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwhitewatermarine.com%2F=02%7C01%7C%7C11db45417d9a404204a608d6967da363%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861863682924475=CtWWW7Tjwe9sRohu4Zm6ix%2FXhdEAUqpVxnUPaD5dXvc%3D=0>

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA=02%7C01%7C%7C11db45417d9a404204a608d6967da363%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861863682934480=hXjDps68uo%2BnxbeqIfkei59kBH4iv4kGO138jOyNd%2BE%3D=0>

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> Message-ID:
><mailto:ca+zacrbqcw3b5szxr2q4ehfo45jy2gcald0yyjfb9dzhhe2...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
> made to fit the original holes.
> 
> Whitewatermarine.com <http://whitewatermarine.com/>
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA 
> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA>
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

+1 on AwlWood — I did my handrails and dorade boxes a couple of years ago, and 
they still look great!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
>  
> from AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
>> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Bev:

Given that you started off with “Just doing the teak handrails,” I assume 
that your interest is limited to “how” and not “whether.”  If you are 
considering going to stainless, I have done so on two boats and have been very 
pleased.  However: a) stainless (although stronger and maintenance free) can be 
a little slippery when wet; and b) despite Herculean template efforts, we were 
never able to get the bolts on the replacement rails lined up perfectly with 
the old bolts holes, so some filling and drilling was required.  On my 34, the 
handrail came with bolts welded in place, so we could see where the holes 
needed to go (they still needed to be oversized for some installation “play”).  
On my current boat, the handrail design had changed, and the “feet” have nuts 
welded in place (so you use regular bolts from the inside).  To deal with this, 
I screwed some small pieces of threaded rod into the feet so I could determine 
where the bolt holes should go.  In addition, the heat of welding the nuts in 
place can distort threads, and Whitewater Marine did not re-tap the threads on 
the feet as they should have.  As a result, we broke off two bolts on my 
current boat before we figured out what was going on.  In short, going to 
stainless will likely be more of a project, but they’re very strong, 
maintenance free, and you’ll only do it once.

If you are only concerned about whether or not to epoxy, my understanding 
is that if water gets into epoxy-entombed wood, the wood can rot from the 
inside without fair warning.  Probably better to go with a UV-protectant 
varnish which, unlike with stainless, you will be doing again someday.

Good luck.

Matt

From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 10:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ

John Conklin

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ


John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 9:15:43 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom made 
to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA<https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA=02%7C01%7C%7C3dd1e361707e4978ab9708d6961047e1%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861393995158481=Y3czAVoBDIAPf53J%2BHUxQjwibwggrCaMuLwC90rVMfo%3D=0>

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=02%7C01%7C%7C3dd1e361707e4978ab9708d6961047e1%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861393995158481=g3VVu51vl859i7o2JLXyZyKHMq5d%2ByxioIbhZR320A8%3D=0>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David Castor via CnC-List]

I was advised that if you want to varnish over epoxy that two-part varnish
is recommended.   I've never tried it.

Back in my hole...

Dave

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:56 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My experience is that with epoxy/ heavy varnish, when you get a chip or
> crack down to bare wood, water creeps  into the adjoining areas and turns
> dark. The only fix is strip and do it again.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:36 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA
>>  
>> from
>> AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
>> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
>> epoxy?
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My experience is that with epoxy/ heavy varnish, when you get a chip or
crack down to bare wood, water creeps  into the adjoining areas and turns
dark. The only fix is strip and do it again.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or



On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:36 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA
>  
> from
> AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I did one handrail with epoxy first and then several coats of Cabot Spar
Varnish. I did the other handrail with just the Spar Varnish. The finish on
the epoxied one is more durable. Whatever varnish you use, get one that has
UV inhibitors.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=87Wx1kVKVQ7piKJLNd2bE4_QHjLpSxwbxgIyZ_tk8p4=Uh0GjDKQYU6IL3XSrh2pRaakTufiTNodD74ZFv4PfsU=
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
 
from AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

[Steven Tattrie via CnC-List]

Hi, The bag idea for filling holes sounds good and sure I would try.  I use
a squeeze bottle that you can buy at the dollar store, it is about 500ml
similar to a condiment bottle for ketchup ect. However this has the volumes
marked out which helps out in the measuring and mixing all in the same
container, not so messy. Measure out the required amounts , mix and
squeeze. I have been very surprised how much pressure you can squeeze into
something. Great for metering out small amounts, like 30-50ml. When I do
the larger amounts I have to work fast!!! small amounts better for me.

Steve T
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I used it to fill dimple-like mini-blisters (lots of them) on the bottom of my 
Ranger 26 a long time ago.  Worked great – no issues underwater for several 
years.  I’ve been using it ever since.  Measuring the two parts if you’re not 
using an entire box is a bit of a pain, but I remain a big fan.  

From: Gerry Beltgens via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 12:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Gerry Beltgens 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

Hey Derek - that is a handy tip. I am going through the same process on my C 
29-1. I look forward to doing that with my next hole repair when I move some 
cleats.
BTW - I am using Marine-Tex epoxy putty for filling holes and divots and it 
works good so far. Anybody have any long term experience with it?

Gerry Beltgens
1977 C 29-1, Blue Moon
Ladysmith BC

Cheers,
Gerry

Gerry Beltgens
Direct: 250-739-3887 (cell)

Office: 250-924-4808


Email: gbeltg...@gmail.com

http://vanislerealestate.ca/


Professional Realtor at
PEMBERTON HOLMES LTD


On Thu, Apr 20, 2017 at 7:17 PM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Hi,

  I read about this tip the other day and got to try it today. It was on Paul 
Calder's blog on Sailfeed, he's Nigel's son.

  I had a number of screw holes in my anchor locker hatch and cockpit seat lid 
to pot with epoxy to provide secure holding for the hinge screws.

  I drilled out all the existing holes with a 5/16" bit, countersunk afterwards 
and cleaned out any dust and debris. I mixed up a batch of epoxy thickened with 
colloidal silica and then put that into a ziploc bag with one corner snipped 
off. The epoxy is squeezed into the holes with the ziploc, much like squeezing 
icing or batter or something. It worked very well, filling the holes 
effectively even when dealing with horizontal holes. I'm aware that there are 
syringes that could do the same thing, but found this was pretty 
straightforward without anything special to run out and buy.

  Just thought I'd relay this if it helps anyone.

  Derek McLeod
  1983 C 29-2, Aileron
  Toronto
  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

[Gerry Beltgens via CnC-List]

Hey Derek - that is a handy tip. I am going through the same process on my
C 29-1. I look forward to doing that with my next hole repair when I move
some cleats.
BTW - I am using Marine-Tex epoxy putty for filling holes and divots and it
works good so far. Anybody have any long term experience with it?

Gerry Beltgens
1977 C 29-1, Blue Moon
Ladysmith BC

Cheers,
Gerry

Gerry Beltgens

Direct: 250-739-3887 (cell)

Office: 250-924-4808

Email: gbeltg...@gmail.com

*http://vanislerealestate.ca/ *
Professional Realtor at
PEMBERTON HOLMES LTD

On Thu, Apr 20, 2017 at 7:17 PM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I read about this tip the other day and got to try it today. It was on
> Paul Calder's blog on Sailfeed, he's Nigel's son.
>
> I had a number of screw holes in my anchor locker hatch and cockpit seat
> lid to pot with epoxy to provide secure holding for the hinge screws.
>
> I drilled out all the existing holes with a 5/16" bit, countersunk
> afterwards and cleaned out any dust and debris. I mixed up a batch of epoxy
> thickened with colloidal silica and then put that into a ziploc bag with
> one corner snipped off. The epoxy is squeezed into the holes with the
> ziploc, much like squeezing icing or batter or something. It worked very
> well, filling the holes effectively even when dealing with horizontal
> holes. I'm aware that there are syringes that could do the same thing, but
> found this was pretty straightforward without anything special to run out
> and buy.
>
> Just thought I'd relay this if it helps anyone.
>
> Derek McLeod
> 1983 C 29-2, Aileron
> Toronto
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Epoxy hole filling

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

I read about this tip the other day and got to try it today. It was on Paul 
Calder's blog on Sailfeed, he's Nigel's son. 

I had a number of screw holes in my anchor locker hatch and cockpit seat lid to 
pot with epoxy to provide secure holding for the hinge screws. 

I drilled out all the existing holes with a 5/16" bit, countersunk afterwards 
and cleaned out any dust and debris. I mixed up a batch of epoxy thickened with 
colloidal silica and then put that into a ziploc bag with one corner snipped 
off. The epoxy is squeezed into the holes with the ziploc, much like squeezing 
icing or batter or something. It worked very well, filling the holes 
effectively even when dealing with horizontal holes. I'm aware that there are 
syringes that could do the same thing, but found this was pretty 
straightforward without anything special to run out and buy. 

Just thought I'd relay this if it helps anyone.  

Derek McLeod 
1983 C 29-2, Aileron 
Toronto
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


I had watched that video series years ago - but it was good to go
  back a re-read the comments.
The epoxy putty my friend used cured underwater - so he was able
  to hold it in place and get a fair seal (smaller diameter hole
  likely made it easier as well)

Dennis - I had heard of the toilet bowl wax ring idea before -
  but thanks for the reminder --- I'd hate to try and clean the
  surface after the wax but I bet it would do a pretty good job of
  stemming water flow.
The other recommendation I got from another friend who lost his
  stuffing box entering a rough inlet is a rubber tire tube and zip
  ties -- he was able to get a passable seal that allowed him to
  sail to a marina

I've never had reason to use my bungs or plugs - but I'll add a
  couple wax rings, inner tube, and epoxy putty for a little extra
  insurance.


Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2016-12-06 10:23 AM, Marek Dziedzic
  via CnC-List wrote:


  
  

  Have you seen this: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/sailing-skills/crash-test-boat-holed-sinking-2-29668
   
  It is an interesting test with some useful advice.
   
  There must be somewhere a PDF of it (I have it), but I
cannot find it. And they have some interesting videos, as
well. On other topics, as well.
   
  Marek
  

   
  
From: Dennis
C. via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, December 5, 2016 23:13
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty
  

 
  
  

  Also keep a couple of toilet bowl wax rings on board
for plugging that odd shaped hole.

  
  Anybody tried Forespar's Sta-Plug?

http://www.forespar.com/products/sta-plug.shtml
  
   
  Dennis C.


   
  On Mon, Dec 5, 2016 at 5:58 PM,
Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

  
  Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part
  putty that you mix together
  
  https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1
  
  I was talking to a friend the other day - he was
  telling me how he wrapped a line around his prop and
  jammed his strut up into the hull.  He discovered a
  small fountain of water coming in.
  
  He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together
  to start the reaction and mashed it in around the
  damaged area  - he then held it in place with his
  hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water
  stopped - so he mixed up a bit more and was able to
  stop all the incoming water.  Confident enough that he
  left the boat on a mooring overnight and had it hauled
  a day or 2 later for repairs.
  
  I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on
  the boat for emergencies.
  
  Mark
  
  
  BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair -
  my friend had nothing but great things to say about
  the workmanship -- I believe Jamie is  C+C lister Mike
  Amirault's son.
  
  
  -- 
  
  
  
  There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the
  interval.
    - George Santayana
  
  
  ___
  
  This list is supported by the generous donations of
  our members. If you wish to make a contribution to
  offset our costs, please go to: 
  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  
  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

  
   

  

  
  
  
  
  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wi

Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Have you seen this: 
http://www.yachtingmonthly.com/sailing-skills/crash-test-boat-holed-sinking-2-29668

It is an interesting test with some useful advice.

There must be somewhere a PDF of it (I have it), but I cannot find it. And they 
have some interesting videos, as well. On other topics, as well.

Marek

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 5, 2016 23:13
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

Also keep a couple of toilet bowl wax rings on board for plugging that odd 
shaped hole.

Anybody tried Forespar's Sta-Plug?

http://www.forespar.com/products/sta-plug.shtml

Dennis C.

On Mon, Dec 5, 2016 at 5:58 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part putty that you mix together

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB=1

I was talking to a friend the other day - he was telling me how he wrapped a 
line around his prop and jammed his strut up into the hull.  He discovered a 
small fountain of water coming in.

He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together to start the reaction and 
mashed it in around the damaged area  - he then held it in place with his hands 
as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water stopped - so he mixed up a bit 
more and was able to stop all the incoming water.  Confident enough that he 
left the boat on a mooring overnight and had it hauled a day or 2 later for 
repairs.

I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on the boat for emergencies.

Mark


BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair - my friend had nothing but 
great things to say about the workmanship -- I believe Jamie is  C+C lister 
Mike Amirault's son.


--



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Also keep a couple of toilet bowl wax rings on board for plugging that odd
shaped hole.

Anybody tried Forespar's Sta-Plug?

http://www.forespar.com/products/sta-plug.shtml

Dennis C.

On Mon, Dec 5, 2016 at 5:58 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part putty that you mix
> together
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_
> title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB=1
>
> I was talking to a friend the other day - he was telling me how he wrapped
> a line around his prop and jammed his strut up into the hull.  He
> discovered a small fountain of water coming in.
>
> He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together to start the
> reaction and mashed it in around the damaged area  - he then held it in
> place with his hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water stopped -
> so he mixed up a bit more and was able to stop all the incoming water.
> Confident enough that he left the boat on a mooring overnight and had it
> hauled a day or 2 later for repairs.
>
> I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on the boat for
> emergencies.
>
> Mark
>
>
> BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair - my friend had
> nothing but great things to say about the workmanship -- I believe Jamie
> is  C+C lister Mike Amirault's son.
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I keep various tube on board.  I had a bleed screw that was slightly
stripped and managed to work it's way loose.  In fact it blew itself off.
I couldn't get it to stay tight enough without skipping a thread so I
removed the fitting, plugged the important ports with a paper towel,  and
then packed the bleed port with steel filled epoxy putty before
reinstalling the bleed screw.  I smoothed the epoxy to capture the the
screw head and let it cure for an hour while we waited on the hook.  An
hour later we we back in business.  Thinking that the proper thing to do
would be to replace the fitting, I did.  Then had the new bleed screw
strip/come loose!  I retrieved the epoxied fitting and reinstalled.  It is
there to this day.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Dec 5, 2016 5:58 PM, "Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part putty that you mix
> together
>
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_
> title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB=1
>
> I was talking to a friend the other day - he was telling me how he wrapped
> a line around his prop and jammed his strut up into the hull.  He
> discovered a small fountain of water coming in.
>
> He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together to start the
> reaction and mashed it in around the damaged area  - he then held it in
> place with his hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water stopped -
> so he mixed up a bit more and was able to stop all the incoming water.
> Confident enough that he left the boat on a mooring overnight and had it
> hauled a day or 2 later for repairs.
>
> I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on the boat for
> emergencies.
>
> Mark
>
>
> BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair - my friend had
> nothing but great things to say about the workmanship -- I believe Jamie
> is  C+C lister Mike Amirault's son.
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Epoxy Putty

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Mark

There are several varieties.  Some will cure underwater.  I have 2 or 3 on 
Persuasion.  I did do a repair on a waterline on a friends boat.  To my 
knowledge it became a permanent repair.  Can't remember which ones I have.  
Probably available at Harbour Freight or Princess Auto north of the border.

Mike
PERSUASION
C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Dec 5, 2016, at 6:58 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part putty that you mix together
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB=1
> 
> I was talking to a friend the other day - he was telling me how he wrapped a 
> line around his prop and jammed his strut up into the hull.  He discovered a 
> small fountain of water coming in.
> 
> He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together to start the reaction 
> and mashed it in around the damaged area  - he then held it in place with his 
> hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water stopped - so he mixed up a 
> bit more and was able to stop all the incoming water.  Confident enough that 
> he left the boat on a mooring overnight and had it hauled a day or 2 later 
> for repairs.
> 
> I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on the boat for emergencies.
> 
> Mark
> 
> 
> BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair - my friend had nothing 
> but great things to say about the workmanship -- I believe Jamie is  C+C 
> lister Mike Amirault's son.
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>  - George Santayana
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Epoxy Putty

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Anyone use the epoxy putty for their boats? 2 part putty that you mix 
together


https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B008DYMZCG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB=1

I was talking to a friend the other day - he was telling me how he 
wrapped a line around his prop and jammed his strut up into the hull.  
He discovered a small fountain of water coming in.


He had some of the epoxy putty - squeezed it together to start the 
reaction and mashed it in around the damaged area  - he then held it in 
place with his hands as it warmed up and cured.  90% of the water 
stopped - so he mixed up a bit more and was able to stop all the 
incoming water.  Confident enough that he left the boat on a mooring 
overnight and had it hauled a day or 2 later for repairs.


I'm thinking I should have a couple tubes of this on the boat for 
emergencies.


Mark


BTW - Jamie at Shining Waters Marine did his repair - my friend had 
nothing but great things to say about the workmanship -- I believe Jamie 
is  C+C lister Mike Amirault's son.



--



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Ahmet - I think I get what you are trying to do.  A pre laminated and fitted 
angle would work.  Make a form, wider than you need and build up layers.  Make 
it way to big, then Trim and bevel to fit. (Angle grinder).  Epoxy in place, 
fill the void(pre drill) then laminate in place.

Btw, mat is NOT structural. it fills the spaces between the warp and weft of 
cloth or roving, making a denser laminate.  

Others may disagree - would be interested in alternative approaches.

Dave

Ahmet - my approach to making flat pieces is to first laminate on a sheet of 
glass. With polyester, I build-up glass/mat alternating and laminated to a high 
glass content with a consolidator.  (A kind of roller)
With epoxy you can use biaxial stitch-mat with fine cloth or peel ply on top, 
then squeegee out  resin.  Use a layer of waxed paper between the glass (or 
Mdf) as a release layer. 
If cured on the glass you can make amazing sheet parts, and assemble them with 
with fillets of epoxy.  
You can also do the work above on a sheet of waxed paper and apply the 
resulting laminate before it kicks.  You basically make a band-aid and plop it 
in place.  (Essentially)Much easier and better than laminating in situ.  You 
can take these laminates and lay on a form, pre cure.
By progressively sizing the pieces, you can make band aids thicker in the 
middle, often useful.

In your case, if I understand correctly, I would combine both pre made pieces 
and pre laminated 'band aids). 
I would fill the void with glass-rich epoxy.  If you need it to flow and level, 
use only a little cabosil.  
You can get a veterinary syringe or make a piping bag out of a ziplock if you 
need to inject into a space.  
Consider laying cloth on its bias for corners bridging seams.   Remember to 
feather edges to maximize gluing.  

Dave.

 


Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2015 23:50:57 -0500
From: Ahmet <ah...@sailnomad.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...
Message-ID:
   

Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Ahmet - my approach to making flat pieces is to first laminate on a sheet of 
glass. With polyester, I build-up glass/mat alternating and laminated to a high 
glass content with a consolidator.  (A kind of roller)
With epoxy you can use biaxial stitch-mat with fine cloth or peel ply on top, 
then squeegee out  resin.  Use a layer of waxed paper between the glass (or 
Mdf) as a release layer. 
If cured on the glass you can make amazing sheet parts, and assemble them with 
with fillets of epoxy.  
You can also do the work above on a sheet of waxed paper and apply the 
resulting laminate before it kicks.  You basically make a band-aid and plop it 
in place.  (Essentially)Much easier and better than laminating in situ.  You 
can take these laminates and lay on a form, pre cure.
By progressively sizing the pieces, you can make band aids thicker in the 
middle, often useful.

In your case, if I understand correctly, I would combine both pre made pieces 
and pre laminated 'band aids). 
I would fill the void with glass-rich epoxy.  If you need it to flow and level, 
use only a little cabosil.  
You can get a veterinary syringe or make a piping bag out of a ziplock if you 
need to inject into a space.  
Consider laying cloth on its bias for corners bridging seams.   Remember to 
feather edges to maximize gluing.  

Dave.

 


Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2015 23:50:57 -0500
From: Ahmet <ah...@sailnomad.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...
Message-ID:
   

Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

I concur with Dave’s approach.

Faced with building up a large area around Calypso’s mast collar (we replaced 
the original plywood with solid glass/epoxy board) I used both epoxy board and 
many layers of 25 oz. bi-ax.  We worked from below as the deck’s inner skin is 
only 1/8” and the outer skin is ¼” to 7/16” thick.  I fabricated shapes of 
epoxy board that were used as an insert.  I built up the insert’s thickness 
with laminations of bi-ax and thickened epoxy.

To completely replace the plywood I needed ½” of build thickness. The insert 
ran between ¼” and 3/8”.  It took 7 to 8 additional layers of 25 oz. bi-ax 
(includes a layer of mat).  To reduce sanding I planned to complete the 
lamination in one session.  Even using vacuum bagging the weight of all that 
resin, cloth, and inserts was difficult to manage.  I ended up using the 
inserts as the last layer and physically applying pressure to aid the vacuum in 
removing voids.

Given my easy access to epoxy board, for the C 25’s keel bolt area build up I 
would use two thinner pieces of epoxy board (easier to shape) then build it up 
with cloth and resin.  I would follow Dave’s recommendations of prep steps to 
insure a good bond.  To protect the keel bolt threads I would use a piece of 
sheet Mylar or similar slipper film stuffed along the bolt with some 5 minute 
epoxy used to seal the edges.

If access to the repair area is difficult, consider the time trade off of 
opening up the floor above the bolt vs. working in very confined spaces.  
Rebuilding a flat floor area may be faster than time spent fighting an awkward 
location.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2015 8:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

Ahmet - I think I get what you are trying to do.  A pre laminated and fitted 
angle would work.  Make a form, wider than you need and build up layers.  Make 
it way to big, then Trim and bevel to fit. (Angle grinder).  Epoxy in place, 
fill the void(pre drill) then laminate in place.

Btw, mat is NOT structural. it fills the spaces between the warp and weft of 
cloth or roving, making a denser laminate.

Others may disagree - would be interested in alternative approaches.

Dave

Ahmet - my approach to making flat pieces is to first laminate on a sheet of 
glass. With polyester, I build-up glass/mat alternating and laminated to a high 
glass content with a consolidator.  (A kind of roller)
With epoxy you can use biaxial stitch-mat with fine cloth or peel ply on top, 
then squeegee out  resin.  Use a layer of waxed paper between the glass (or 
Mdf) as a release layer.
If cured on the glass you can make amazing sheet parts, and assemble them with 
with fillets of epoxy.
You can also do the work above on a sheet of waxed paper and apply the 
resulting laminate before it kicks.  You basically make a band-aid and plop it 
in place.  (Essentially)Much easier and better than laminating in situ.  You 
can take these laminates and lay on a form, pre cure.
By progressively sizing the pieces, you can make band aids thicker in the 
middle, often useful.

In your case, if I understand correctly, I would combine both pre made pieces 
and pre laminated 'band aids).
I would fill the void with glass-rich epoxy.  If you need it to flow and level, 
use only a little cabosil.
You can get a veterinary syringe or make a piping bag out of a ziplock if you 
need to inject into a space.
Consider laying cloth on its bias for corners bridging seams.   Remember to 
feather edges to maximize gluing.

Dave.

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Yup, bog, same stuff, and I think it's the more common slang.  By dad and his 
buddies called it that at the Ontario boatbuilders coop back in the 80s, cow 
flap is how Bristol marine described it to me recently.   Blobs attaching the 
liner to the hull in my 33ii meet that description. 
  I recently removed all of this stuff from my 33ii keel stub and it was damp 
throughout and cracked.  Still intact/strong enough though.  No hyd back stay.  
When looking to purchase this boat I saw many with hydraulic back stays that 
had buckled/rippled  top sides near the chain plates. (Or equivalent). 
Sometimes subtle, sometimes not.  Never once have I seen this noted on a survey.

Dave



> ... Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in 
> our c

Is "cow flap" polyester the same orange, hard filler used by Bruckmann's in the 
early 70's?  I have heard it called "bog".

Sent from my iPhone___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Dave via CnC-List]

Glass strands (various lengths from milled fibres to chopped strands)- hard to 
fair but strong - structural.
Fumed silica - cab-o-sil - this is a colloidal filler, it keeps the epoxy from 
flowing.  This is not the same thing as making it 'thicker'  - glass will do 
that, but without silica, the reain can still run, fillers can still sag.  You 
need silica to make putty.The stiffness of the mix will vary - is this for 
coating, laminating, adhesion with gap filling, fairing, structural filling?
Micro balloons - fillers with various degrees of fair-ability.  Different 
materials.
Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our 
c  

Peel ply - a nylon material that is porous to epoxy that can be lifted off 
after cure.  Leaves a finished surface.  (More significant in vaccum bagging).  
 Nylon taffeta from the fabric store works. 

Acetone can be used on a cloth to help shape 'b stage' epoxy.  Isopropyl 
alcohol for clean up (a challenge)

Waxed paper or 'tack tape' works as a release. 

I welcome critiques or additions  Lots of good info on the gougeon site and 
many others .

Great stuff to experiment with.

Dave 


Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>... Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our 
>c

Is "cow flap" polyester the same orange, hard filler used by Bruckmann's in the 
early 70's?  I have heard it called "bog".

Many of the failed balsa areas in Calypso's deck were bordered by the orange 
"bog" filler.  Water intrusion from one place would migrate through cracks in 
the bog to many other places.

Back in 1998 we repaired hull fractures (actually leaking sea water into the 
bilge) caused by the forward keel stub's bog failing to prevent flexing.  My 
best guess is 28 years of hard sailing made harder by the use of hydraulic back 
stay tensioners stressed the solid glass layup to fracture.  Sea water found 
the path into the bilge through the cracked bog filler.

The 1998/99 repair was to grind out all the bog, re-laminate inside and out, 
and finish up with much less epoxy filler.  After looking at the C build 
drawings for the early 43's I noticed C/Bruckmann's added extra structure 
forward from the mast step to stiffen this area.  We will be adding something 
similar during the current deck restoration project.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

Glass strands (various lengths from milled fibres to chopped strands)- hard to 
fair but strong - structural.
Fumed silica - cab-o-sil - this is a colloidal filler, it keeps the epoxy from 
flowing.  This is not the same thing as making it 'thicker'  - glass will do 
that, but without silica, the reain can still run, fillers can still sag.  You 
need silica to make putty.The stiffness of the mix will vary - is this for 
coating, laminating, adhesion with gap filling, fairing, structural filling?
Micro balloons - fillers with various degrees of fair-ability.  Different 
materials.
Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our 
c  

Peel ply - a nylon material that is porous to epoxy that can be lifted off 
after cure.  Leaves a finished surface.  (More significant in vaccum bagging).  
 Nylon taffeta from the fabric store works. 

Acetone can be used on a cloth to help shape 'b stage' epoxy.  Isopropyl 
alcohol for clean up (a challenge)

Waxed paper or 'tack tape' works as a release. 

I welcome critiques or additions  Lots of good info on the gougeon site and 
many others .

Great stuff to experiment with.

Dave 


Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

Thank You, that is a lot of information condensed.
I have a challenge. Whoever built my hull # 5, missed the sump location by
an inch. So I need to extend the sump wall horizontally.
I would thing that I would start wetting structural mat and go horizontally
out from where the exposed nut is. It is basically a 4 inch vertical wall
than needs to be filled in.
The situation is in PIC 3 
 Here is sort of a drawing I
have.
What might  be the best way to build up the vertical wall that will
eventually withstand the pressure of the nut besides just keep on adding
cloth until I have the desired width ?
Ahmet

On Tue, Nov 24, 2015 at 8:10 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Glass strands (various lengths from milled fibres to chopped strands)-
> hard to fair but strong - structural.
> Fumed silica - cab-o-sil - this is a colloidal filler, it keeps the epoxy
> from flowing.  This is not the same thing as making it 'thicker'  - glass
> will do that, but without silica, the reain can still run, fillers can
> still sag.  You need silica to make putty.The stiffness of the mix will
> vary - is this for coating, laminating, adhesion with gap filling, fairing,
> structural filling?
> Micro balloons - fillers with various degrees of fair-ability.  Different
> materials.
> Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our
> c
>
> Peel ply - a nylon material that is porous to epoxy that can be lifted off
> after cure.  Leaves a finished surface.  (More significant in vaccum
> bagging).   Nylon taffeta from the fabric store works.
>
> Acetone can be used on a cloth to help shape 'b stage' epoxy.  Isopropyl
> alcohol for clean up (a challenge)
>
> Waxed paper or 'tack tape' works as a release.
>
> I welcome critiques or additions  Lots of good info on the gougeon
> site and many others .
>
> Great stuff to experiment with.
>
> Dave
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
---
Ahmet
*"S/V Waterdancer"* 1990 Irwin 43 CC
"Tabasco" 1973 C 25
Winthrop Yacht Club, Winthrop, MA / USA
---
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If I may add to that exhaustive list of advice, 

ascetic acid (vinegar) can be used for cleaning epoxy, before it hardens. It 
gets into reaction with epoxy resin monomers and neutralises them in the 
process. So if you are doing any epoxy work it helps to have a bottle with 
vinegar and a rag handy for cleaning hands, tools or spilled resin. This works 
only if the epoxy has not set yet.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: November 24, 2015 21:35
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...


>... Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our 
>c

Is "cow flap" polyester the same orange, hard filler used by Bruckmann's in the 
early 70's?  I have heard it called "bog".

Many of the failed balsa areas in Calypso's deck were bordered by the orange 
"bog" filler.  Water intrusion from one place would migrate through cracks in 
the bog to many other places.

Back in 1998 we repaired hull fractures (actually leaking sea water into the 
bilge) caused by the forward keel stub's bog failing to prevent flexing.  My 
best guess is 28 years of hard sailing made harder by the use of hydraulic back 
stay tensioners stressed the solid glass layup to fracture.  Sea water found 
the path into the bilge through the cracked bog filler.

The 1998/99 repair was to grind out all the bog, re-laminate inside and out, 
and finish up with much less epoxy filler.  After looking at the C build 
drawings for the early 43's I noticed C/Bruckmann's added extra structure 
forward from the mast step to stiffen this area.  We will be adding something 
similar during the current deck restoration project.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2015 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dave
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy fillers and other stuff...

Glass strands (various lengths from milled fibres to chopped strands)- hard to 
fair but strong - structural.
Fumed silica - cab-o-sil - this is a colloidal filler, it keeps the epoxy from 
flowing.  This is not the same thing as making it 'thicker'  - glass will do 
that, but without silica, the reain can still run, fillers can still sag.  You 
need silica to make putty.    The stiffness of the mix will vary - is this for 
coating, laminating, adhesion with gap filling, fairing, structural filling?
Micro balloons - fillers with various degrees of fair-ability.  Different 
materials.
Talc - cheap-ass filler used in bondo and 'cow flap' polyester used in our 
c  

Peel ply - a nylon material that is porous to epoxy that can be lifted off 
after cure.  Leaves a finished surface.  (More significant in vaccum bagging).  
 Nylon taffeta from the fabric store works. 

Acetone can be used on a cloth to help shape 'b stage' epoxy.  Isopropyl 
alcohol for clean up (a challenge)

Waxed paper or 'tack tape' works as a release. 

I welcome critiques or additions  Lots of good info on the gougeon site and 
many others .

Great stuff to experiment with.

Dave 


Sent from my iPhone
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com