Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We use Cetol® Marine Natural Teak on the little bit of teak we still have
on the outside of Salazar.  It holds up very well and looks good.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/can/diy/products/wood%20treatment/cetol%C2%AE-marine-natural-teak.aspx

Ken H.

On Thu, 21 Feb 2019 at 09:53, Marc Boyd via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks. Very good tip, which I shall apply once the weather gets better🙂
>
> Marc.
>
> On Feb 20, 2019, at 11:22 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Cetol light;  3 coats with 3 coats of clear over.  No orangy tinge and
> rugged.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 20, 2019 11:52 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
> Hi Marc
>
>
>
> Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a
> brush to apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better
> than a weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in
> my experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is
> varnish.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Marc Boyd via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Marc Boyd
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
>
> Hi Mike,
>
>
>
> Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light?
> And, do you apply by cloth or brush...or?
>
>
>
> In the cabin of our C&C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled.
> Interested in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Marc
>
>
>
> On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one
> maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use
> Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished
> wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance
> coats every year or two.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
>
> I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per
> season.  Done.
>
> From my Android
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
> *Cc:* Jim Watts
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
>
> I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
>
> I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you
> can cover it, you don't need epoxy.
>
> One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to
> wood them down and start over.
>
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into
> the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since
> the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You
> may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating
> epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed.
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list w

Stus-List Epoxy or not

[ssjohnson via CnC-List]

I purchased Alegria in 2006.  Th teak was in and shapebut could have been 
lots worse.  I sanded to fresh teak, applied 3 coats of Cetol and 2 to coats of 
clear per their instructions.  Going on 12 years later with only a scotchbright 
ruff up and cleaning.I have a few dings to clean up, but, it is basically 
holding up well.  Tapeing the handrails is a bit of a pain but they look great. 
Spencer Johnson 84 LF 38 "Alegria" #165Mount Prospect IL / Racine WI___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Marc Boyd via CnC-List]

Thanks. Very good tip, which I shall apply once the weather gets better🙂

Marc.

> On Feb 20, 2019, at 11:22 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Cetol light;  3 coats with 3 coats of clear over.  No orangy tinge and rugged.
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 11:52 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Hoyt, Mike
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> Hi Marc
>  
> Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a brush 
> to apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better than a 
> weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in my 
> experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is varnish.
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com
>  
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marc Boyd 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Marc Boyd
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> Hi Mike,
>  
> Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light? And, 
> do you apply by cloth or brush...or?
>  
> In the cabin of our C&C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled. 
> Interested in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?
>  
> Cheers,
>  
> Marc
>  
> On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
> maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
> Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
> wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
> every year or two.
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
> www.hoytsailing.com
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season. 
>  Done. 
> 
> From my Android
>  
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
> To: 1 CnC List
> Cc: Jim Watts
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol. 
> I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
> cover it, you don't need epoxy.
> One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to 
> wood them down and start over.
>  
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>  
>  
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
> wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the 
> epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may 
> have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy 
> will last for life and keep the wood sealed. 
> 
> Steve
>  
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> --
> marc.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David via CnC-List]

Cetol light;  3 coats with 3 coats of clear over.  No orangy tinge and rugged.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 11:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.


Hi Marc



Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a brush to 
apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better than a 
weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in my 
experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is varnish.



Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>









From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marc Boyd 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marc Boyd
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



Hi Mike,



Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light? And, do 
you apply by cloth or brush...or?



In the cabin of our C&C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled. Interested 
in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?



Cheers,



Marc



On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
every year or two.



Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.

>From my Android





From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.



I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.

I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.

One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC





On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve



 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

--

marc.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Marc

Cetol Light is a bit less orange than regular Cetol.  I normally use a brush to 
apply.  It still has an orange tinge but looks oh so much better than a 
weathered peeling handrail!  Somewhat less work than varnish as in my 
experience it is not as problematic when it lifts in places as is varnish.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marc Boyd 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2019 12:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marc Boyd
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Hi Mike,

Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light? And, do 
you apply by cloth or brush...or?

In the cabin of our C&C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled. Interested 
in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?

Cheers,

Marc

On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
every year or two.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com<http://www.hoytsailing.com>

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of David via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.
From my Android


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Jim Watts via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
--
marc.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Marc Boyd via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,

Does the Cetol Light you use have a colour, or is it just called light?
And, do you apply by cloth or brush...or?

In the cabin of our C&C 30 the woodwork is not varnished, but oiled.
Interested in what you recommend here i.e. Stain or?

Cheers,

Marc

On Wed, Feb 20, 2019 at 6:45 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one
> maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use
> Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished
> wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance
> coats every year or two.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
> www.hoytsailing.com
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
>
> I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per
> season.  Done.
>
> From my Android
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
> *To:* 1 CnC List
> *Cc:* Jim Watts
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>
>
>
> I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
>
> I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you
> can cover it, you don't need epoxy.
>
> One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to
> wood them down and start over.
>
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into
> the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since
> the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You
> may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating
> epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed.
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
marc.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

On Persistence we use Cetol Light on handrails and toerail.  At least one 
maintenance coat per season.  Around companionway and hatch boards  we use 
Epiphanes varnish.  We do this because the  interior has a lot of varnished 
wood and the companionway wood pieces like to match.  Also maintenance coats 
every year or two.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS
www.hoytsailing.com

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 8:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.
>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

 Original Message ----
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
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Re: Stus-List epoxy or not

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

Yeah we may covet the non maintenance of stainless down here in the south but 
we are heat avoidant. 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Tuesday, February 19, 2019, 10:19 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re:  Hull windows (Jim Watts)
  2. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Matthew L. Wolford)
  3. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Frederick G Street)
  4. Re:  Epoxy or not. (Dreuge)


--

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 20:39:10 -0800
From: Jim Watts 
To: 1 CnC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hull windows
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Some boats can look good with hull windows, and properly engineered they
should not be a strength factor in the hull.
http://www.iconsailing.com/assets/homepage/k1087.jpg
Some boats look hideous with hull windows, and look like the boat will fold
on the dotted line.
https://www.oysteryachts.com/images/yachts/46/oyster_745_75ft_yacht_at_sea_on_body_of_water.jpg
It depends...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 at 05:41, Rob Ball via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I would love to have Windows in the hull.
> But, as you mention they are always Ugly.
> For sure fitting them into an existing hull that was not built for it,
> would be very unwise.  There needs to be careful structure changes if a
> window is fitted . . . . .
> I dreamed of a full length stripe that was a window set into the hull,
> with occasional openings inside.  You could get the windows and a good
> looking boat. Alas, pretty hard to accomplish. The differing expansion and
> contraction of different materials with temperature changes, etc.
> Some of the Baltic's these days have opening 'doors' in the hull.  You can
> imagine the engineering that goes into something like that to make the boat
> safe . . . . .
> Maybe in my next life . . . . .
>
> Rob Ball.  C&C 34
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2019 00:04:22 -0500
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Bev:

    Given that you started off with ?Just doing the teak handrails,? I assume 
that your interest is limited to ?how? and not ?whether.?  If you are 
considering going to stainless, I have done so on two boats and have been very 
pleased.  However: a) stainless (although stronger and maintenance free) can be 
a little slippery when wet; and b) despite Herculean template efforts, we were 
never able to get the bolts on the replacement rails lined up perfectly with 
the old bolts holes, so some filling and drilling was required.  On my 34, the 
handrail came with bolts welded in place, so we could see where the holes 
needed to go (they still needed to be oversized for some installation ?play?).  
On my current boat, the handrail design had changed, and the ?feet? have nuts 
welded in place (so you use regular bolts from the inside).  To deal with this, 
I screwed some small pieces of threaded rod into the feet so I could determine 
where the bolt holes should go.  In addition, the heat of welding the nuts in 
place can distort threads, and Whitewater Marine did not re-tap the threads on 
the feet as they should have.  As a result, we broke off two bolts on my 
current boat before we figured out what was going on.  In short, going to 
stainless will likely be more of a project, but they?re very strong, 
maintenance free, and you?ll only do it once.

    If you are only concerned about whether or not to epoxy, my understanding 
is that if water gets into epoxy-entombed wood, the wood can rot from the 
inside without fair warning.  Probably better to go with a UV-protectant 
varnish which, unlike with stainless, you will be doing again someday.

    Good luck.

    Matt

From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 10

Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David via CnC-List]

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

 Original Message ----
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Replaced mine with ss here on Lake Ontario and never looked back.  Huge epoxy 
fan but I Don’t think I would epoxy teak, you’ll be maintaining the varnish 
anyway.  I don’t think the epoxy adds any real benefit. 

Dave 
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 19, 2019, at 6:44 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> Whoa – that’s the best of both worlds – and driving  distance for the kid!
> Good find, Dennis!
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 6:18 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> Why not plastic teak handrails?
>  
> https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
> was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who 
> went that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I 
> grabbed ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn The impression I got was 
> that a hot rail is a safety concern.  
>  
> I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go. 
>   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
> outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half 
> as much.
>  
>  
>  
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
>  
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yes I like that stuff! I think Beneteau (cough) also uses it just for a nice 
toe rail on newer models.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Feb 19, 2019, at 6:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Why not plastic teak handrails?

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Whoa – that’s the best of both worlds – and driving  distance for the kid!

Good find, Dennis! 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 6:18 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

 

Why not plastic teak handrails?

 

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-listcom> > wrote:

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn The impression I got was that a hot 
rail is a safety concern.  

 

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Why not plastic teak handrails?

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.
> I was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend
> who went that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his
> rails, I grabbed ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The
> impression I got was that a hot rail is a safety concern.
>
> I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to
> go.   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents
> such as  outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost
> nearly half as much.
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you
can cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to
wood them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into
> the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since
> the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You
> may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating
> epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed.
>
> Steve
>
>
> ---- Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed. 
Steve
 

 Original Message Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.From: Bev Parslow Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pmTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Starboard.  Probably could.

From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. 
I guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

  Marek
  1994 C270 Legato
  Ottawa, ON

  From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Dreuge 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

  I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

  I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go. 
  While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



  -
  Paul E.
  1981 C&C Landfall 38 
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Fort Walton Beach, FL

  http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
    Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 I second Jim's solution with the handrail covers, I have two sets...one for 
summer and one for winter layup..., I'm thinking about a cover for my 
cover...or maybe not... 
 
Richard
 
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; currently between floods...

Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2019 11:32 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

  My solution was to have some Sunbrella covers made for the wood handrails.  
Takes nearly all the maintenance work away.  Haven’t touched them in 3 years.
Jim ReinardyC&C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 
 Get Outlook for iOS  

   
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Plastic? Stainless?   Sorry, I am sure they are great, but I am an OEM kind of 
guy...teak.
That said, I made a new set of handrails for my C&C 36 six years ago.
varnished with Minwax spar varnish.  Still going strong in northern latitudes.
I think the secret to varnish is to seal all sides, then apply at least 5, and 
7 better, coats with just a light sanding between.  Most, including me on 
passion, quite too soon because three coats looks pretty good, but fails to 
provide the uv protection and depth of finish needed to last outdoors.
I would not epoxy.  Does little more than varnish in this application and more 
difficult to remove when it comes time to do so.
Just my 2 cents.  Don't mean to offend anyone.
Bill Walker 
C&C 36
Pentwater, Mi.


Bill Walker 
On Tuesday, February 19, 2019 John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?

Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor). 
Marek1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON From: Dreuge via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not. I’m a big 
stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I was 
seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard 
equivalent) may be the way to go.   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit 
pricey, there are equivalents such as  outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE 
sign boards which cost nearly half as much.   -
Paul E.1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Mon, 
18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsvjohannarose.blogspot.com%2F&data=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855753840&sdata=xnTu%2FkqdP8Q5Gk6N%2BDnBN9QB7O8g61GAcHoi4WEHpgI%3D&reserved=0>

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwhitewatermarine.com%2F&data=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855763851&sdata=%2BlJmMsLW3DZ8ygGJW14TOERWdMWCtJrU47vq8eLzW9Y%3D&reserved=0>

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA<https://eur02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA&data=02%7C01%7C%7C1dee27e7336d40cd942208d6967f4ee2%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861870855783867&sdata=jnBibdDcoiadPR5Jj%2FdvjJSKAPIH1SGMhBUmRC2GGb4%3D&reserved=0>

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

My solution was to have some Sunbrella covers made for the wood 
handrails.  Takes nearly all the maintenance work away.  Haven’t touched them 
in 3 years.
Jim ReinardyC&C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



Get Outlook for iOS

  




On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 9:11 PM -0600, "John Conklin via CnC-List" 
 wrote:




















Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ


 


 


John Conklin


 


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 9:15:43 PM

To: C&C List

Cc: Josh Muckley

Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
 


Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid 
$100 for each rail.  Custom made to fit the original holes.



Whitewatermarine.com



https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA





Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD










On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray













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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fsvjohannarose.blogspot.com%2F&data=02%7C01%7C%7C11db45417d9a404204a608d6967da363%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861863682904459&sdata=3kVXRy0Oq%2BUH6hTqzZHy9or%2FrmFeLyXjhf0V%2FZUTE5A%3D&reserved=0>

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwhitewatermarine.com%2F&data=02%7C01%7C%7C11db45417d9a404204a608d6967da363%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861863682924475&sdata=CtWWW7Tjwe9sRohu4Zm6ix%2FXhdEAUqpVxnUPaD5dXvc%3D&reserved=0>

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA<https://eur01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA&data=02%7C01%7C%7C11db45417d9a404204a608d6967da363%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861863682934480&sdata=hXjDps68uo%2BnxbeqIfkei59kBH4iv4kGO138jOyNd%2BE%3D&reserved=0>

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> Message-ID:
><mailto:ca+zacrbqcw3b5szxr2q4ehfo45jy2gcald0yyjfb9dzhhe2...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
> made to fit the original holes.
> 
> Whitewatermarine.com <http://whitewatermarine.com/>
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA 
> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA>
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

+1 on AwlWood — I did my handrails and dorade boxes a couple of years ago, and 
they still look great!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
>  
> from AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
>> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Bev:

Given that you started off with “Just doing the teak handrails,” I assume 
that your interest is limited to “how” and not “whether.”  If you are 
considering going to stainless, I have done so on two boats and have been very 
pleased.  However: a) stainless (although stronger and maintenance free) can be 
a little slippery when wet; and b) despite Herculean template efforts, we were 
never able to get the bolts on the replacement rails lined up perfectly with 
the old bolts holes, so some filling and drilling was required.  On my 34, the 
handrail came with bolts welded in place, so we could see where the holes 
needed to go (they still needed to be oversized for some installation “play”).  
On my current boat, the handrail design had changed, and the “feet” have nuts 
welded in place (so you use regular bolts from the inside).  To deal with this, 
I screwed some small pieces of threaded rod into the feet so I could determine 
where the bolt holes should go.  In addition, the heat of welding the nuts in 
place can distort threads, and Whitewater Marine did not re-tap the threads on 
the feet as they should have.  As a result, we broke off two bolts on my 
current boat before we figured out what was going on.  In short, going to 
stainless will likely be more of a project, but they’re very strong, 
maintenance free, and you’ll only do it once.

If you are only concerned about whether or not to epoxy, my understanding 
is that if water gets into epoxy-entombed wood, the wood can rot from the 
inside without fair warning.  Probably better to go with a UV-protectant 
varnish which, unlike with stainless, you will be doing again someday.

Good luck.

Matt

From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 10:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ

John Conklin

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ


John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 9:15:43 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom made 
to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA<https://eur04.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA&data=02%7C01%7C%7C3dd1e361707e4978ab9708d6961047e1%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636861393995158481&sdata=Y3czAVoBDIAPf53J%2BHUxQjwibwggrCaMuLwC90rVMfo%3D&reserved=0>

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David Castor via CnC-List]

I was advised that if you want to varnish over epoxy that two-part varnish
is recommended.   I've never tried it.

Back in my hole...

Dave

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:56 PM Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My experience is that with epoxy/ heavy varnish, when you get a chip or
> crack down to bare wood, water creeps  into the adjoining areas and turns
> dark. The only fix is strip and do it again.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:36 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA
>>  
>> from
>> AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
>> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
>> epoxy?
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My experience is that with epoxy/ heavy varnish, when you get a chip or
crack down to bare wood, water creeps  into the adjoining areas and turns
dark. The only fix is strip and do it again.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or



On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:36 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA
>  
> from
> AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I did one handrail with epoxy first and then several coats of Cabot Spar
Varnish. I did the other handrail with just the Spar Varnish. The finish on
the epoxied one is more durable. Whatever varnish you use, get one that has
UV inhibitors.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 3:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=87Wx1kVKVQ7piKJLNd2bE4_QHjLpSxwbxgIyZ_tk8p4&s=Uh0GjDKQYU6IL3XSrh2pRaakTufiTNodD74ZFv4PfsU&e=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
 
from AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Bev Parslow via CnC-List]

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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