Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Another solid candidate for gluing to acrylic or lexan directly to another 
plastic is Plexus 300/350. About $30 with manual mixing applicator and it is 
recommended by Lewmar.
My Lewmar #20 ports have inside handles only and these are glued on with this. 
I never believed it would hold when the hatches are in the 'closed tight' 
position with maximum force trying to separate the handle from the acrylic. To 
my surprise and amazement it has held without issues for years, until a crew 
steps on it, etc. but then it just gets glued back and lasts again.
Would not want to get my fingers stuck together with it for sure!!
Charlie Nelson


-Original Message-
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Sent: Thu, Jun 25, 2020 10:10 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

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div.yiv5817389147Section1 {}#yiv5817389147 I am glad you mentioned this Lee, I 
remember that beingdiscussed, and was looking for that a year or so ago, but I 
was looking for HighTemp Silicone black for some reason. I think I will do 
another tensile test with the Krylon and thePurple People Eater Primer. The 
nice thing about the black Krylon, if it bonds well enough,is that it protects 
the adhesive beneath it from UV.    And to the other comment about cheaping 
out, I agree totally, havingdone window three years in a row  with bad results. 
It is not worth it with allthe work involved. I would test it first. And If you 
are looking for a really premium adhesive for plasticand urethane, I can highly 
recommend Lord Epoxy Adhesive, 320/322. I believe itis a descendent of Chemloc. 
  I can attest to its tenacity with Urethane, althoI haven’t used it with 
Plastic yet.  Only problem is finding it.    Bill Coleman    From: 
CnC-List[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee Youngblood 
viaCnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:32 PM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!    Hum, I thought 
this was solved years ago!  Get theKrylon black plastic paint - $4 or 5 bucks 
for the spray can and do a couplepasses around the window.      You really 
should go to a C&C RDV, especially the onesin BC, where the tech talks have 
covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!          
On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List wrote:    Yeah, you need the primer, not much 
sticks to acrylic or Lexan.That was one of the irritating things about using 
the 295uv was that you had topay around 40 bucks for a can of primer that you 
only used a teaspoon of.   I was just wondering the other day, if that purple 
primer theysell to prime PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result 
– Iwouldn’t be surprised, and for only a few bucks.    I tried gluing a couple 
pieces of Lexan together with 795 acouple years ago, just to see how it stuck, 
and it didn’t take much to pullapart.  I should try that again with the purple 
primer.   Bill Coleman From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24,2020 1:31 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy
Subject: Re: Stus-Listhatch repair   I haven't used primer. I did the aft cabin 
hatch 3 yearsago, and no leaks. I had the some primer for the saloon and 
v-berth hatches,didn't notice it was the wrong stuff until it was too late.    
On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:56 AM dwight veinot via 
CnC-Listwrote: 
I hope you used the primer for the Sikaflex. First time Idid not and the thing 
leaked inside of 2 years. Cleaned it up all over agsinand used primer second 
time. Still good after 5 years no leaks. The primer madethe difference   On 
Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:54 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
wrote: 
Hi Joe, I just replaced the plexiglass on 2 of my hatches. I dug outmost of the 
sealant around the lens, then took a windshield removal tool to cutthe bond 
between the frame and lens. I used a wire wheel to clean up theremainder of 
sealant. Wiped the frame with lacquer thinner, put a small bevelon both the top 
and bottom of the new plexiglass. taped off where I didn't wantsealant. Laid a 
bead of Sika Flex 295uv, positioned lens into frame and pusheddown wi

Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I am glad you mentioned this Lee, I remember that being discussed, and was 
looking for that a year or so ago, but I was looking for High Temp Silicone 
black for some reason.

I think I will do another tensile test with the Krylon and the Purple People 
Eater Primer.

The nice thing about the black Krylon, if it bonds well enough, is that it 
protects the adhesive beneath it from UV.

 

And to the other comment about cheaping out, I agree totally, having done 
window three years in a row  with bad results. It is not worth it with all the 
work involved. I would test it first.

And If you are looking for a really premium adhesive for plastic and urethane, 
I can highly recommend Lord Epoxy Adhesive, 320/322. I believe it is a 
descendent of Chemloc.   I can attest to its tenacity with Urethane, altho I 
haven’t used it with Plastic yet.  Only problem is finding it.

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:32 PM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

 

Hum, I thought this was solved years ago!  Get the Krylon black plastic paint - 
$4 or 5 bucks for the spray can and do a couple passes around the window.  

 

You really should go to a C&C RDV, especially the ones in BC, where the tech 
talks have covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!

 

 

 

On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Yeah, you need the primer, not much sticks to acrylic or Lexan. That was one of 
the irritating things about using the 295uv was that you had to pay around 40 
bucks for a can of primer that you only used a teaspoon of.  

I was just wondering the other day, if that purple primer they sell to prime 
PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result – I wouldn’t be 
surprised, and for only a few bucks. 

 

I tried gluing a couple pieces of Lexan together with 795 a couple years ago, 
just to see how it stuck, and it didn’t take much to pull apart.  I should try 
that again with the purple primer.

 

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List [ <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 1:31 PM
To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair

 

I haven't used primer. I did the aft cabin hatch 3 years ago, and no leaks. I 
had the some primer for the saloon and v-berth hatches, didn't notice it was 
the wrong stuff until it was too late. 

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:56 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I hope you used the primer for the Sikaflex. First time I did not and the thing 
leaked inside of 2 years. Cleaned it up all over agsin and used primer second 
time. Still good after 5 years no leaks. The primer made the difference

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:54 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Joe,

I just replaced the plexiglass on 2 of my hatches. I dug out most of the 
sealant around the lens, then took a windshield removal tool to cut the bond 
between the frame and lens. I used a wire wheel to clean up the remainder of 
sealant. Wiped the frame with lacquer thinner, put a small bevel on both the 
top and bottom of the new plexiglass. taped off where I didn't want sealant. 
Laid a bead of Sika Flex 295uv, positioned lens into frame and pushed down with 
just enough force to make the lens leves with the frame. I then filled the gap 
between the frame and plexiglass. You will want to make sure you get as many of 
the voids as possible. 

 <https://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-60298.html> 
https://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-60298.html

 

Doug.

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 8:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I have been asking about sending my hatches in for refurbishment and it isn't 
cheap. Am I overthinking it? I only need two things, one is putting a new 
gasket in and the other is a new piece of Plexiglas. I can buy the gasket and 
the glue and the local shop can duplicate the glass easy enough. Thankfully I 
don't have the kind of hatch that opens from the outside, so there are no knob 
or O rings to leak.
Question - how do you get the hatch off? The pins don't look designed to be 
removed easily. Do you cut them and then get new ones?


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
 <http://www.dellabarba.com/> www.dellabarba.com



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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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to send con

Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Krylon paint is the equivalent of the $40/$60 or more primer? THAT would be 
great ☺

Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:32 PM
To: CnC-List 
Cc: Lee Youngblood 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

Hum, I thought this was solved years ago!  Get the Krylon black plastic paint - 
$4 or 5 bucks for the spray can and do a couple passes around the window.

You really should go to a C&C RDV, especially the ones in BC, where the tech 
talks have covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!



On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yeah, you need the primer, not much sticks to acrylic or Lexan. That was one of 
the irritating things about using the 295uv was that you had to pay around 40 
bucks for a can of primer that you only used a teaspoon of.
I was just wondering the other day, if that purple primer they sell to prime 
PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result – I wouldn’t be 
surprised, and for only a few bucks.

I tried gluing a couple pieces of Lexan together with 795 a couple years ago, 
just to see how it stuck, and it didn’t take much to pull apart.  I should try 
that again with the purple primer.

Bill Coleman
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Chris Riedinger via CnC-List]

I glued in a new jefa bearing into a perfectly prepped grp hull, PYI the
local dealer, recommended sika291.

Got a lift on the boat, set the rudder underneath, put it back on the
stands.

Jack up that rudder and without even getting fully into the bearing, the
whole bearing assembly slid up and into the boat, mucking up all that work.

After using 209 primer, you can probably (not that I know) jack the boat
nearly off the stands with the sika291..

I'm not sure how much piece of mind is worth to many folks who are trying
to avoid the primer cost..  but maybe consider contacting the local dealer
and see if a rep can get you an ounce or two.
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hum, I thought this was solved years ago!  Get the Krylon black plastic paint - 
$4 or 5 bucks for the spray can and do a couple passes around the window.  

You really should go to a C&C RDV, especially the ones in BC, where the tech 
talks have covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!



> On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yeah, you need the primer, not much sticks to acrylic or Lexan. That was one 
> of the irritating things about using the 295uv was that you had to pay around 
> 40 bucks for a can of primer that you only used a teaspoon of.  
> I was just wondering the other day, if that purple primer they sell to prime 
> PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result – I wouldn’t be 
> surprised, and for only a few bucks. 
>  
> I tried gluing a couple pieces of Lexan together with 795 a couple years ago, 
> just to see how it stuck, and it didn’t take much to pull apart.  I should 
> try that again with the purple primer.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 1:31 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Doug Mountjoy
> Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair
>  
> I haven't used primer. I did the aft cabin hatch 3 years ago, and no leaks. I 
> had the some primer for the saloon and v-berth hatches, didn't notice it was 
> the wrong stuff until it was too late. 
>  
> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:56 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> I hope you used the primer for the Sikaflex. First time I did not and the 
>> thing leaked inside of 2 years. Cleaned it up all over agsin and used primer 
>> second time. Still good after 5 years no leaks. The primer made the 
>> difference
>>  
>> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:54 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Hi Joe,
>>> I just replaced the plexiglass on 2 of my hatches. I dug out most of the 
>>> sealant around the lens, then took a windshield removal tool to cut the 
>>> bond between the frame and lens. I used a wire wheel to clean up the 
>>> remainder of sealant. Wiped the frame with lacquer thinner, put a small 
>>> bevel on both the top and bottom of the new plexiglass. taped off where I 
>>> didn't want sealant. Laid a bead of Sika Flex 295uv, positioned lens into 
>>> frame and pushed down with just enough force to make the lens leves with 
>>> the frame. I then filled the gap between the frame and plexiglass. You will 
>>> want to make sure you get as many of the voids as possible. 
>>> https://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-60298.html 
>>> 
>>>  
>>> Doug.
>>>  
>>> On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 8:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
 I have been asking about sending my hatches in for refurbishment and it 
 isn't cheap. Am I overthinking it? I only need two things, one is putting 
 a new gasket in and the other is a new piece of Plexiglas. I can buy the 
 gasket and the glue and the local shop can duplicate the glass easy 
 enough. Thankfully I don't have the kind of hatch that opens from the 
 outside, so there are no knob or O rings to leak.
 Question - how do you get the hatch off? The pins don't look designed to 
 be removed easily. Do you cut them and then get new ones?
 
 
 Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
 www.dellabarba.com 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each 
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> Douglas Mountjoy
>>> 253-208-1412
>>> Port Orchard YC, WA
>>> Rebecca Leah
>>> C&C LandFall 39
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> 
>> -- 
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
> Port Orchard YC, WA
> Rebecca Leah
> C&C LandFall 39
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions