I am glad you mentioned this Lee, I remember that being discussed, and was 
looking for that a year or so ago, but I was looking for High Temp Silicone 
black for some reason.

I think I will do another tensile test with the Krylon and the Purple People 
Eater Primer.

The nice thing about the black Krylon, if it bonds well enough, is that it 
protects the adhesive beneath it from UV.

 

And to the other comment about cheaping out, I agree totally, having done 
window three years in a row  with bad results. It is not worth it with all the 
work involved. I would test it first.

And If you are looking for a really premium adhesive for plastic and urethane, 
I can highly recommend Lord Epoxy Adhesive, 320/322. I believe it is a 
descendent of Chemloc.   I can attest to its tenacity with Urethane, altho I 
haven’t used it with Plastic yet.  Only problem is finding it.

 

Bill Coleman

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 10:32 PM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair / Now primer solution!

 

Hum, I thought this was solved years ago!  Get the Krylon black plastic paint - 
$4 or 5 bucks for the spray can and do a couple passes around the window.  

 

You really should go to a C&C RDV, especially the ones in BC, where the tech 
talks have covered this, years ago - Thanks Jim!

 

 

 

On Jun 24, 2020, at 11:20 59AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 

Yeah, you need the primer, not much sticks to acrylic or Lexan. That was one of 
the irritating things about using the 295uv was that you had to pay around 40 
bucks for a can of primer that you only used a teaspoon of.  

I was just wondering the other day, if that purple primer they sell to prime 
PVC piping before gluing would achieve the same result – I wouldn’t be 
surprised, and for only a few bucks. 

 

I tried gluing a couple pieces of Lexan together with 795 a couple years ago, 
just to see how it stuck, and it didn’t take much to pull apart.  I should try 
that again with the purple primer.

 

Bill Coleman

From: CnC-List [ <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 24, 2020 1:31 PM
To:  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy
Subject: Re: Stus-List hatch repair

 

I haven't used primer. I did the aft cabin hatch 3 years ago, and no leaks. I 
had the some primer for the saloon and v-berth hatches, didn't notice it was 
the wrong stuff until it was too late. 

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 9:56 AM dwight veinot via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I hope you used the primer for the Sikaflex. First time I did not and the thing 
leaked inside of 2 years. Cleaned it up all over agsin and used primer second 
time. Still good after 5 years no leaks. The primer made the difference

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 12:54 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Joe,

I just replaced the plexiglass on 2 of my hatches. I dug out most of the 
sealant around the lens, then took a windshield removal tool to cut the bond 
between the frame and lens. I used a wire wheel to clean up the remainder of 
sealant. Wiped the frame with lacquer thinner, put a small bevel on both the 
top and bottom of the new plexiglass. taped off where I didn't want sealant. 
Laid a bead of Sika Flex 295uv, positioned lens into frame and pushed down with 
just enough force to make the lens leves with the frame. I then filled the gap 
between the frame and plexiglass. You will want to make sure you get as many of 
the voids as possible. 

 <https://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-60298.html> 
https://www.harborfreight.com/windshield-removing-tool-60298.html

 

Doug.

 

On Wed, Jun 24, 2020 at 8:40 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I have been asking about sending my hatches in for refurbishment and it isn't 
cheap. Am I overthinking it? I only need two things, one is putting a new 
gasket in and the other is a new piece of Plexiglas. I can buy the gasket and 
the glue and the local shop can duplicate the glass easy enough. Thankfully I 
don't have the kind of hatch that opens from the outside, so there are no knob 
or O rings to leak.
Question - how do you get the hatch off? The pins don't look designed to be 
removed easily. Do you cut them and then get new ones?


Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35  MK I
 <http://www.dellabarba.com/> www.dellabarba.com



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Douglas Mountjoy
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Port Orchard YC, WA

Rebecca Leah

C&C LandFall 39

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Sent from Gmail Mobile

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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-- 

Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412

Port Orchard YC, WA

Rebecca Leah

C&C LandFall 39

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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______________________________________________________________
Lee Youngblood & Kathleen Davis
s/v Simplicity, a 1974 C&C 35-II
Shilshole / Seattle   425-444-9109

 

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