[drakelist] Want TR7 front panel
Floyd Sense [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'm looking for a nice TR7 front panel. I need only the aluminum structural panel and want one in very good cosmetic condition - no dents, gouges, etc. 73, Floyd - K8AC -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] R-4B switch
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Wed, 18 Jan 2006, Garey Barrell wrote: With the scarcity of power switches for vintage gear, I always leave mine switched on and control power with an inexpensive computer power strip. Agreed - plus I have an inrush limiting box in series to avoid thumpin' the R-4* on power-up. I found some power strips at IKEA that have only 3 outlets (instead of the typical 6 plugs) which are nice and small. It's the only thing i've found of use at IKEA but don't tell my wife that. hi -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I sent this to my CW mailing list but there's a much larger audience here so i'm sending it here as well... Just wondering if anyone could help me figure out the difference in some of the various Vibroplex bugs. I've found about 4 different variations: Lightning bug Original bug Blue Racer bug And then for the Lightning bug i've noticed some have a square looking damper for the arm, others just have a post for the arm to rest against. If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? I've got a deluxe original made in 1986 that is quite nice but I thought i'd have a little fun with some of the really old ones... but I don't know if the old ones are more trouble than they are worth. Thanks for any advice and recommendations. Jason -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Al Parker [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Jason, Go to: http://www.la.ca.us/frandy/index.html you'll find a lot of info on the various models. As far as I've seen, age makes no difference in operation, it's mainly in the adjustment, which is all basically the same. I have several. Been using the straight key lately, tho, seems OK to around 20wpm for me. 73, Al, W8UT New Bern, NC BoatAnchors appreciated here http://www.thecompendium.net/radio/ soon to be at http://www.boatanchors.org http://www.hammarlund.info - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 11:42 AM Subject: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I sent this to my CW mailing list but there's a much larger audience here so i'm sending it here as well... Just wondering if anyone could help me figure out the difference in some of the various Vibroplex bugs. I've found about 4 different variations: Lightning bug Original bug Blue Racer bug And then for the Lightning bug i've noticed some have a square looking damper for the arm, others just have a post for the arm to rest against. If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? I've got a deluxe original made in 1986 that is quite nice but I thought i'd have a little fun with some of the really old ones... but I don't know if the old ones are more trouble than they are worth. Thanks for any advice and recommendations. Jason - -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Current limiting startup for Vintage gear
Keith Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Has anyone tried the soft-start current limiting boxes sold by Sigtomics (http://sigtomics.com)? Would that help prolong the life of the on-off switch as well as the transformer? My AC-4 really thumps when I turn my T-X4C transmitter on. Seems a better solution than a cheap computer power strip. Or not? Keith Hamilton, N8QO [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Grif [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jason- Go to http://www.la.ca.us/frandy/index.html. There, and the links there, will answer most of your questions about Vibroplexes. 73, Grif, KF4JG - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 11:42 AM Subject: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I sent this to my CW mailing list but there's a much larger audience here so i'm sending it here as well... Just wondering if anyone could help me figure out the difference in some of the various Vibroplex bugs. I've found about 4 different variations: Lightning bug Original bug Blue Racer bug And then for the Lightning bug i've noticed some have a square looking damper for the arm, others just have a post for the arm to rest against. If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? I've got a deluxe original made in 1986 that is quite nice but I thought i'd have a little fun with some of the really old ones... but I don't know if the old ones are more trouble than they are worth. Thanks for any advice and recommendations. Jason -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Affeldt Fred [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jason, One difference in bugs that should be noted: a blue racer is about 2/3 the size of a standard bug, and it tends to be a bit faster at its slowest speed than a standard bug, hence the name. Vibroplex sells a product called a bug tamer which is essentially an extension to the arm, permitting the weight to be mounted farther out on the arm, slowing the speed. Slow speed on a blue racer is around 22 WPM, I think. Al's comments were right on - it's really about adjustment, not age. 73, Fred W4JFA -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 19, 2006 11:43 AM To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Subject: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I sent this to my CW mailing list but there's a much larger audience here so i'm sending it here as well... Just wondering if anyone could help me figure out the difference in some of the various Vibroplex bugs. I've found about 4 different variations: Lightning bug Original bug Blue Racer bug And then for the Lightning bug i've noticed some have a square looking damper for the arm, others just have a post for the arm to rest against. If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? I've got a deluxe original made in 1986 that is quite nice but I thought i'd have a little fun with some of the really old ones... but I don't know if the old ones are more trouble than they are worth. Thanks for any advice and recommendations. Jason -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- The bug on the desk MOST of the time is a GHB optical bug, but that's a different story :-) No one ever gave me an award for typing ... That should be a GHD optical bug Grant/NQ5T -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] R-4B switch
Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Keith - Good point. Couple of points. 1. In over 40 years of owning, using and working on _lots_ of Drake gear, I have never seen a failed AC-3/4 transformer. I'm sure there have been some, there were probably some with manufacturing defects. They do thump if you happen to close the switch on or near the peak of the AC waveform, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything. 2. What usually kills power switches is the arc that forms when the switch is turned off from the inductive kick of the transformer winding. Second is the growth of a small bump on either of the contacts that makes first when closed, which forces all the current through that bump before the rest of the contacts touch. Good contacts, closed, are pretty tough! The Sigtomics units look nice, and not ridiculously priced. The thermistor components are readily available, and can be installed directly in vintage receivers for a lot less money. They aren't as useful in transmitters because of the large difference in turn-on and full power transmit power requirements. You pretty well have to have a relay to short out whatever resistance you put in-line at turn on. The first thing I did to my L-4B when I got it 30 years ago was to put a time delay relay and power resistor. The amp still has the original tubes and original pilot lamps. Anyway, there is certainly nothing wrong with using the Sigtomics units, but I'm not sure they will really improve the reliability of the equipment significantly over an external power control. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Drake C-Line Service Manual http://www.k4oah.com Keith Hamilton wrote: Has anyone tried the soft-start current limiting boxes sold by Sigtomics (http://sigtomics.com)? Would that help prolong the life of the on-off switch as well as the transformer? My AC-4 really thumps when I turn my T-X4C transmitter on. Seems a better solution than a cheap computer power strip. Or not? Keith Hamilton, N8QO [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Jan 19, 2006, at 8:43 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wed, 18 Jan 2006, Garey Barrell wrote: With the scarcity of power switches for vintage gear, I always leave mine switched on and control power with an inexpensive computer power strip. Agreed - plus I have an inrush limiting box in series to avoid thumpin' the R-4* on power-up. I found some power strips at IKEA that have only 3 outlets (instead of the typical 6 plugs) which are nice and small. It's the only thing i've found of use at IKEA but don't tell my wife that. hi -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Grant Youngman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? Generally speaking, the older bugs work just fine, if they're complete and not bashed up. I've found some issues with badly burned up contacts on some of them. My personal favorites are the Lightning Bugs and I have several of different vintages. They all handle about the same, although I'm stuck on a WW-II version (J-36) made by Lionel as the one I use most often. The bug on the desk MOST of the time is a GHB optical bug, but that's a different story :-) Grant/NQ5T -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jason - Personally, I think the older bugs are much more responsive than the ones made later. I have heard that Mitch has improved the quality over what it was a few years ago, but don't have any personal experience. I have four or five, mostly from the 60's and earlier, and one or two from the down years. Something that seems to me to be somewhat consistent is that the older ones have a more lively spring, that will produce a considerably longer string of good dots than the later ones. The Original model is what I consider the workhorse of the bunch, probably the best overall for the most users. The Lightning bug is much less common than the others, but it and the Blue Racer are BOTH much happier at faster speeds, (25 wpm and up). The Original will run 20 comfortably. The Champion is the entry level bug, and will run down to 15 or so. Just adding weight to the existing arm is not very effective, and tends to further kill the vibrations even faster. To slow them down, you need to extend the arm, allowing the weight to be place further from the arbor. There are Bug Tamers, (extensions with additional weights,) and Vari-Speeds, (a pivoted extension with additional weight,) to slow down the faster ones. The bargains are still out there, but generally NOT on EBay. I bought a like-new Blue Racer from the original owner (1958) at a hamfest about three years ago for $25. I asked if he had priced it, and he said it was what he paid for it new and just wanted it to go to a good home! 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Drake C-Line Service Manual http://www.k4oah.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I sent this to my CW mailing list but there's a much larger audience here so i'm sending it here as well... Just wondering if anyone could help me figure out the difference in some of the various Vibroplex bugs. I've found about 4 different variations: Lightning bug Original bug Blue Racer bug And then for the Lightning bug i've noticed some have a square looking damper for the arm, others just have a post for the arm to rest against. If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? I've got a deluxe original made in 1986 that is quite nice but I thought i'd have a little fun with some of the really old ones... but I don't know if the old ones are more trouble than they are worth. Thanks for any advice and recommendations. Jason -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
RE: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Thu, 19 Jan 2006, Affeldt Fred wrote: One difference in bugs that should be noted: a blue racer is about 2/3 the size of a standard bug, and it tends to be a bit faster at its slowest speed than a standard bug, hence the name. Vibroplex sells a product called a bug tamer which is essentially an extension to the arm, permitting the weight to be mounted farther out on the arm, slowing the speed. Slow speed on a blue racer is around 22 WPM, I think. Al's comments were right on - it's really about adjustment, not age. Thanks - sounds like they'd all be a nice fit then. My biggest concern was that the models with the triangular pivot mechanism (or the non-jeweled mechanism) would be prone to problems, etc. My original deluxe seems to be stuck at around 35wpm with the huge weight at the top of the arm. I saw where I can get other weights for it but i'll see what I can find for an old bug first. Thanks! -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Current limiting startup for Vintage gear
Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jason - I suspect the Sigtomics you are using has a relay to short out whatever surge protection device they are using once the initial time period has passed. Here is one type of NTC carried by Mouser. Essentially they have a cold resistance and a hot resistance. It's a trade off between the higher cold resistance to limit the current surge at turn-on, and the hot resistance which can be significant if you have a large delta I. One of shortcoming is if the power is interrupted momentarily, there is no protection because the NTC doesn't have time to cool off. Another is that they generate considerable heat, and so have to be mounted clear of temperature sensitive objects. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Drake C-Line Service Manual http://www.k4oah.com [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Thu, 19 Jan 2006, Keith Hamilton wrote: Has anyone tried the soft-start current limiting boxes sold by Sigtomics (http://sigtomics.com)? Would that help prolong the life of the on-off switch as well as the transformer? My AC-4 really thumps when I turn my T-X4C transmitter on. Seems a better solution than a cheap computer power strip. Or not? I've got the 600/1000W version for amps. I've used it with my R-4B and T-4XB plugged into a power strip from the lower wattage outlet on the sigtomics box - when plugging the sigtomics box into a wall outlet the R-4B and T-4XB (and AC-4) are silent when coming on... no thump at all. If I knew what make/model of thermistors were in the sigtomics box I'd buy a few (they can't cost more than a dollar each) and put them in the power strips. The voltage does not sag between idle and key down - so despite my earlier concerns about thermistors and voltage sag it seems to work quite well. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] R-4B switch
Keith Hamilton [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thanks for making that clearer to me Garey. I am going to fix the switch on my R-4B and then start using a power strip to turn on my favorite radios; my Drakes! Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Keith - Good point. Couple of points. 1. In over 40 years of owning, using and working on _lots_ of Drake gear, I have never seen a failed AC-3/4 transformer. I'm sure there have been some, there were probably some with manufacturing defects. They do thump if you happen to close the switch on or near the peak of the AC waveform, but it doesn't seem to hurt anything. 2. What usually kills power switches is the arc that forms when the switch is turned off from the inductive kick of the transformer winding. Second is the growth of a small bump on either of the contacts that makes first when closed, which forces all the current through that bump before the rest of the contacts touch. Good contacts, closed, are pretty tough! The Sigtomics units look nice, and not ridiculously priced. The thermistor components are readily available, and can be installed directly in vintage receivers for a lot less money. They aren't as useful in transmitters because of the large difference in turn-on and full power transmit power requirements. You pretty well have to have a relay to short out whatever resistance you put in-line at turn on. The first thing I did to my L-4B when I got it 30 years ago was to put a time delay relay and power resistor. The amp still has the original tubes and original pilot lamps. Anyway, there is certainly nothing wrong with using the Sigtomics units, but I'm not sure they will really improve the reliability of the equipment significantly over an external power control. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Drake C-Line Service Manual http://www.k4oah.com Keith Hamilton wrote: Has anyone tried the soft-start current limiting boxes sold by Sigtomics (http://sigtomics.com)? Would that help prolong the life of the on-off switch as well as the transformer? My AC-4 really thumps when I turn my T-X4C transmitter on. Seems a better solution than a cheap computer power strip. Or not? Keith Hamilton, N8QO [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Jan 19, 2006, at 8:43 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Wed, 18 Jan 2006, Garey Barrell wrote: With the scarcity of power switches for vintage gear, I always leave mine switched on and control power with an inexpensive computer power strip. Agreed - plus I have an inrush limiting box in series to avoid thumpin' the R-4* on power-up. I found some power strips at IKEA that have only 3 outlets (instead of the typical 6 plugs) which are nice and small. It's the only thing i've found of use at IKEA but don't tell my wife that. hi -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Current limiting startup for Vintage gear
DW Holtman [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hello, The devices used for current limiting are are cheap, and easy to install. The link below is the data sheet for one brand. Note the CL-80 and CL-90, both work great on most receivers. In addition to providing surge protection on start up, the hot resistance is several ohms. This will drop the line voltage applied to the equipment a couple of volts, which is more the voltage that they were designed for. http://www.thermometrics.com/assets/images/cl.pdf The link below is from Jan Skirrow's site. It explains this type of thermistor, along with showing how they are installed in a R-390a. The installation for any receiver or transmitter will be similar. Just pay attention to what he says about heat generation. A good way to mount them is in an external 2 plug electrical box. They can be bought very cheap at Home Depot etc. http://skirrow.org/Boatanchors/TechTalk3.pdf I have about 20 CL-80's and 20 CL-90's, if anyone wants one, I will sell them for $3.00 each shipped. That is about what I will have into them with shipping. I also make some very nice complete units with RFI filters built in. They greatly reduce computer and other noises getting into your radios. If you would like more information, let me know. I can send pictures/specs of the units that I make. Hope this helps on the thermistor questions. 73's DW Holtman WB7SSN [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Thu, 19 Jan 2006, Keith Hamilton wrote: Has anyone tried the soft-start current limiting boxes sold by Sigtomics (http://sigtomics.com)? Would that help prolong the life of the on-off switch as well as the transformer? My AC-4 really thumps when I turn my T-X4C transmitter on. Seems a better solution than a cheap computer power strip. Or not? I've got the 600/1000W version for amps. I've used it with my R-4B and T-4XB plugged into a power strip from the lower wattage outlet on the sigtomics box - when plugging the sigtomics box into a wall outlet the R-4B and T-4XB (and AC-4) are silent when coming on... no thump at all. If I knew what make/model of thermistors were in the sigtomics box I'd buy a few (they can't cost more than a dollar each) and put them in the power strips. The voltage does not sag between idle and key down - so despite my earlier concerns about thermistors and voltage sag it seems to work quite well. -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] SB220 with Drake color
Hello, I thought I remembered someone on this list saying that he had made up several front face plates with the Drake coloring for the SB220 amp and had a couple left for sale. If someone knows about this, I would appreciate the information. Also, any suggestion on the black paint for the cabinet? I already checked the archives and did not see it. Thanks for the help, Gene / WB4NUM
Re: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
George KB2Z [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jason, Do a Google search. Vibroplex still has a Web-site. They have history, old parts diagrams, etc. on line. I think its Vibroplex.com. Good luck, George At 11:42 AM 1/19/06, you wrote: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- hi, I sent this to my CW mailing list but there's a much larger audience here so i'm sending it here as well... Just wondering if anyone could help me figure out the difference in some of the various Vibroplex bugs. I've found about 4 different variations: Lightning bug Original bug Blue Racer bug And then for the Lightning bug i've noticed some have a square looking damper for the arm, others just have a post for the arm to rest against. If I were going to find one of these to buy and USE are there any concerns using the really old bugs vs. using the new bugs? I've got a deluxe original made in 1986 that is quite nice but I thought i'd have a little fun with some of the really old ones... but I don't know if the old ones are more trouble than they are worth. Thanks for any advice and recommendations. Jason -- 73 Jason N1SU http://n1su.com/ -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- The key is that the arm needs to be extended, not just more weight added to the existing arm. Just adding more weight quickly makes the action sluggish. The main advantage of the Vari-Speed is that it allows for quick speed changes. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Eric Webner wrote: Eric Webner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I talked to Vibroplex at the Dayton Hamvention a couple years ago, and after balking at the high prices for the bug tamers, they suggested clipping a clothespin on the arm to slow it down. Just one of several suggestions. 73, Eric KA8FAN -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] OT: Difference in Vibroplex bugs
Eric Webner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Garey et al, The Vari-speed is the one with the pivoting arm, I believe. That impressed me the most, although I believe the gentleman was inferring that the clothepin could be clipped on at different angles, much like the Vari-speed. The idea is to increase the length of the arm, not so much to increase the total weight. Have fun! Eric KA8FAN --- Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- The key is that the arm needs to be extended, not just more weight added to the existing arm. Just adding more weight quickly makes the action sluggish. The main advantage of the Vari-Speed is that it allows for quick speed changes. 73, Garey - K4OAH Atlanta Eric Webner wrote: Eric Webner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I talked to Vibroplex at the Dayton Hamvention a couple years ago, and after balking at the high prices for the bug tamers, they suggested clipping a clothespin on the arm to slow it down. Just one of several suggestions. 73, Eric KA8FAN -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
