Re: [drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?
Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Ron - We used that at NRAO 30 years ago. They are all metal, primarily aluminum, protectants. There are three types, LPS-1, LPS-2 and LPS-3, each a little thicker. LPS-1 is similar to WD-40, and leaves a wet, oily film. LPS-2 is also similar to WD-40, but actually dries. LPS-3 is almost like a grease in a spray gun, and reminded me of a thin cosmolene! :-) They're good for protecting tools from rust, etc. We never used them for electronics though, but used the predecessor of DeoxIT, I think it was Cramolin.? I'll stick with DeoxIT for contacts and FaderLube (the old CaiLube) for pots. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Ron Wagner wrote: Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Do a google on lps 1. I get it locally from a friend who has a shop. It is widely available. Not sure what it is, but has done very well by me. Based on google hits, it is availalbe at Ace Hardware. 73, Ron WD8SBB On Sat, 26 Jul 2008, Don Cunningham wrote: Don Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Ron, Is this LPSI lubricant readily available?? I don't remember seeing it, but wasn't really looking either, hi. I have the front panel off my R4C replacing a bad mode switch that the seller conveniently didn't tell me was not functioning properly (another story!!), and want to do something with lubing the PTO while there. Tks, Don, WB5HAK -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Yes, Cramolin was the excellent one before DeOxit. EPA had their way with Cramolin.**Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today. (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr000520) -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants?
What was EPA's problem with Cramolin? I still have half of my little vial of Cramolin. Grif, KF4JG - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2008 12:27 PM Subject: Re: [drakelist] Re: VA7TO 2-B: Lubricants? [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Yes, Cramolin was the excellent one before DeOxit. EPA had their way with Cramolin.**Get fantasy football with free live scoring. Sign up for FanHouse Fantasy Football today. (http://www.fanhouse.com/fantasyaffair?ncid=aolspr000520)-- Submissions: drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost: [EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] First Steps
David Chris Drake [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hi Jason, and welcome back to the bands. Its difficult to tell where to start and I'm sure others out there will have separate opinions. I'd give it a try on 40 first. Without a dummy load, you'll have to look for a spot on the band that is inactive. Again, since this is the first time, set the resist, and reactance knobs mid way on the tuner. Then try to load up the t4x for max output or use the instructions in the manual. Once you get the t4 idling along, you can adjust the tuner for min. swr, or, as some do, maximum output on a wattmeter. Go back and forth until you are seeing the maximum output it will do. Best advise is to just give it a try, with very short tune up times, and tweaking as you go. You may have to go back and forth several times, so be patient until you get everything in resonance. Also, you'll not find much action like you were used to a few years back. The noise you are hearing is common. We are at or very near the absolute low for the sunspot cycle, and you have to be pretty dedicated to make contacts these days. Its likely your rigs are fine, and just a victim of the times. It will get better, hopefully soon. Its best to get a dummy load. Then you know you have a 50 ohm match, and then only have to worry about one thing at a time. As for working on the rigs, you'll find lots of help here when you need it. Also refer to www.wb4hfn.com for lots of information and how to's. You'll also find links to others websites as well. David - Original Message - From: Jason Bonnough [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 9:23 PM Subject: [drakelist] First Steps Jason Bonnough [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Hello all, I have been watching the list-serv for about a month now and I have a question for all that can help. I have been an amateur radio operator for a number of years but mostly active on 2M. Never on HF... I bought a R-4B and T-4BX a number of years ago in hopes that I would start to explore HF more than just the random perhaps yearly scan through SWL. But then I joined the Navy, (Became an ET whose primary duty was the URT-23Ds on a ship, HF Transmitters ironically...) and put my Drakes pretty much into storage. Also, in this time became an inactive ham due to my command being in Japan and I had no place to operate. Well, I am back in the states, have my own place and pretty much the first thing I did was pull the Drakes out of storage, set them up on a cheap coffee table (I have no furniture now and am slowly buying more.. no desk!! gonna build one soon...) and attached a ~75' wire as an antenna through a MFJ-16010 Random Wire Tuner. And to save space because I have no room in an apartment that doesn't like things hanging out of their apartments (even on the 2nd floor) I spun the wire in a somewhat diamond shape using supports from a cardboard box that I cut up so the cardboard supports look like an X with an inward spiraling wire. Anywho, after that detailed setup, here is my situation. I can hear some stations just fine, I even got a SWL QSL card from the Canadian Time Standard station CAN. but I'm afraid to test TX, especially without a dummy load. A hamfest will be coming up in September in my area and I plan on getting one there unless I can get one that I bought that is in storage in Oklahoma sent to me. (Rargh, I digress again.) I would like to try to make this system back into full operation both TX and RX. I have no test equipment other than a pocket mulitmeter from Radio Shack and well, on very limited budget. I have seen comments here about replacing caps and such... how can one tell when that is needed exactly? I have so much RF noise in the area, I cannot tell if its just ambient noise or bad equipment... Working on this stuff is no where near as easy as working on the modular designs of the URT-23D and really without an o-scope.. I feel lost... I like to see signals... Any suggestions on how to test and if necessary replace components on this stuff would be greatly appreciated. I really want to learn my system inside and out and am willing to do everything it takes to get the Drakes 100%, budget willing... Thanks!!! 73s Jason Bonnough AD5IY -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net -- --
Re: [drakelist] First Steps
Don Cunningham [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jason, David is right, but I'll add, stronger than he did, that I would NEVER load a tube rig for the first time into an unknown antenna situation. You really need that dummy load, especially since you have a random wire (with likely a poor ground in an apartment), and it will exhibit strange impedances/reactances. If the rigs have been stored for a long time, I would also recommend rebuilding the AC4 supply before you even start using it. Listening to the receiver, you have been using its internal supply and have not fired up the AC4 yet. The capacitors are old enough now that they WILL fail, even if they don't initially, and will cause more problems than you will want to trace, hi. The bias capacitor itself can/will wipe out the final tubes if it goes bad. That would be my starting point for transmitting. Buy the AC4R kit from the Heathkit shop (no connection, just love the kit) and rebuild the power supply while someone ships the dummy load to you. If you are NOT comfortable with high voltage in your daily ET duties, arrange with Mike at the Heathkit shop and he'll rebuild it for a fee. Good investment, then with the dummy load, you will have a firm foundation. Good luck!! 73, Don, WB5HAK -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] FS: Drake TR-22C Portable 2-mtr FM xcvr w/pics
Hi All; I never got to fool with this so I have no idea if it works so basically am selling for parts. TR-22C with all 12 channels filled, 24 xtals, drake mike, short DC cable, leatherette case. Radio is in Excellent physical condx(no tears or rips), antenna is same, mike has tape residue on the backside, .Looks like a mod to hold AA cases(2), which plug onto those 9vdc battery connectors we all know. No AA cases though. Can charge from 110vac but no cable supplied. I would think this is a tech special or for parts. The 24 xtals are worth it alone, they may even work on other radios. List of freqs in one of the pics. Price is $60ppd. Pics http://www.myradioroom.com/tr22c1.jpg http://www.myradioroom.com/tr22c2.jpg http://www.myradioroom.com/tr22c3.jpg http://www.myradioroom.com/tr22c4.jpg http://www.myradioroom.com/tr22c5.jpg http://www.myradioroom.com/tr22c6.jpg http://www.myradioroom.com/tr22c7.jpg tnx 73 Rich WA2RQY/4
Re: [drakelist] FS: Drake TR-22C Portable 2-mtr FM xcvr w/pics
Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- On Sun, 27 Jul 2008 22:37:30 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Looks like a mod to hold AA cases(2), which plug onto those 9vdc battery connectors we all know. No AA cases though. Not a mod, that's the standard configuration. The radio was designed for NiCads held in the two AA cases, one four cell and one six cell. Alkaline could be used if another 4 cell holder was substituted for the 6 cell holder, but of course charging them was not recommended. 73 -Jim NU0C -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] A better TR7 allband transmit mod
Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Maybe this has been covered before somewhere, but I haven't seen it, so here goes. I was never happy with the official modification for allband transmit with the TR7 because it disables the out-of-lock (O.O.L.) transmit inhibit signal in the digital control circuit as a side effect. This is the mod to cut the trace between pins 11 of rows two and three on the parent board, as described here: http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/drakemod/tr7mod.html The O.O.L. signal is there to prevent accidental out of band transmissions should an unlock condition occur in the PLL system. I didn't like the idea of killing it. The TX mod described by G4ALG at http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/tr7moremods.html (mod #15) preserves the O.O.L. signal, but does not allow transmit in the 2.5 or 5.0 MHz bands. Additionally, the TX mod MUST NOT be done the official way if the G4ALG power on transmit inhibit mod (mod #7, same page) is also desired, as this modification requires the O.O.L. signal to be functioning. I decided to try to find the best of both worlds. It turned out that it wasn't very difficult. Two cuts are required on the digital control board. The first cut is to an insulated jumper wire that lies right next to R221 on the digital control board. It is the only insulated jumper on the board, so it's hard to miss. This has the same effect as unsoldering the collector of Q9001 on the DR7 board, as described by G4ALG #15. The other cut must be done to a circuit trace connecting two vias on the top side of the digital control board. This trace is located between U209 and R221, and is not connected to anything on the top (component) side of the board. Cutting this trace disables the H.B. (Ham Band) signal from the DR7 board. This fools the TR7 into thinking that every band is a ham band, and transmission is now possible in the 2.5 and 5.0 MHz bands. After these two cuts are made, the pin 11 cut on the bottom of the parent board must be reversed if it has been implemented. A marked up pic of the digital control board mod points is available on request. I also implemented the G4ALG power on transmit inhibit mod at this time. This is a desirable mod, especially for those who run transverters or satellite downconverters ahead of the TR7. It kills the transmit spike that can occur in the TR7 under certian conditions when powerd on. I didn't have a 22 uF capacitor on hand, so I used a 10 uF instead and still had plenty of delay at power on. The parts were aerially mounted to the bottom of the parent board and secured with hot glue. Pic available on request. Remember to observe ESD handling precautions when working with the TR7, these parts are sensitive to static damage. Use a grounded soldering iron. As usual, standard disclaimers apply; this information is accurate to the best of my knowledge, but I'm not responsible if you break it. Caution: transmission outside the allocated Amateur band frequencies will require a license, other than an amateur radio operator license, and may also require an FCC certified transmitter. The TR7/TR7A is not an FCC certified transmitter/receiver. - PSA copied from the Drakelist web site. 73 -Jim NU0C -- Submissions:drakelist@zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
