Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Crystal Confusion

2011-06-12 Thread Ron
Joe,
Where is your preselector positioned?

The 2B was designed to mix xtals in a lot of ways, and the preselector really 
did a "make or break" where you were listening.  The A socket is kind of "tuned 
wide" around 8 Mhz.

First guess is the xtal is outputting on second harmonic and your hearing ~5 
Mhz-5.6Mhz with rather unusual math on the dial. 

73,
Ron WD8SBB


--- On Sat, 6/11/11, Joe Connor  wrote:

From: Joe Connor 
Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Crystal Confusion
To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
Date: Saturday, June 11, 2011, 8:18 PM



   Well, the work on this set is proceeding well. I installed a replacement 
filter-cap can and the radio sounds good. It's sensitive and has surprisingly 
good audio. 
 
    I am, however, confused about crystals. When I bought this radio, there was 
one extra crystal: a crystal marked 4605.000 kc in the A socket. When I turn to 
A, I hear a fair number of amateur SSB broadcasts. However, I am not sure what 
frequency range I'm on. 
 
    Am I correct that 4605.000 kc is 4.605 mhz? WIth a crystal in the A socket, 
the manual seems to indicate that I should subtract 4.1 mhz from the crystal 
frequency to determine the frequency that I'm hearing. That would bring me to 
505 khz, which makes no sense. 
 
    Can someone please tell me what's going? 

   As always, thank you for your help. 
 
 Joe Connor
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake

2011-06-12 Thread Gypsymt34


top...@att.net writes:

Lookin for any info on Drake Equipment,Im a newbe to  the world of Ham 
Suggest you refer to  _www.wb4hfn.com_ (http://www.wb4hfn.com)   and be 
ready for a lot of  info.
Carl wd8nhk___
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[Drakelist] strange noise in tuning.

2011-06-12 Thread y...@aol.com

  Was playing with my R-4  today and noticed a" birdie" very strong on 20 
and 17 meters. Almost as strong as the cal tone.Showed up on 14150,210 ,275 and 
335. On 17 showed up at 18120,135, and 145. Pulled the ant connection and 
gone,the R4 is silent except for a little white noise. If I pull the 2' jumper 
coax off the ant switch,but still connected to the R-4 , the birdie still there 
and as loud as when the switch is connected to the antenna. the rig seems to 
hear fine on both bands,just the birdie is always there. If I pull the jumper 
coax from the switch,short the coax, still there. 
  On the same antennas and antenna switch, my S-line does not have the 
birdies, nor does my Flex 1500. I also noticed on the R-4,This seems to come 
and go, that it is harder to tune to a CLEAN sounding audio on ssb,always seems 
a bit rough and not right on. 
   any ideas where to look. 
thanks
dale wt4t


 


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Re: [Drakelist] value of early drake gear

2011-06-12 Thread Garey Barrell

Dale -

The only significant difference between the R-4 and the Early R-4A is 
that the 'A' has a solid state (Bipolar) PTO and BAND oscillator.  So 
the 'A' is more stable and quicker to stabilize from turn-on.  The R-4 
is very like the 2-B, functionally, just with a linear PTO and 1 kHz 
calibration.  The Late R-4A has a few more stages converted from tube to 
SS, NONE of which are in the direct RF/IF signal path.  Some claim the 
tube type Product Detector used in the 2-B - Early R-4A has lower 
distortion than the two-diode PD used in the rest of the R-4A/B/C 
receivers.  The "B" added the 25 kHz calibrator, and changed the PTO to 
an FET after the first 1000 receivers, and but that's about the only 
functional differences.  There were several cosmetic changes, the most 
important of which, at least to me, was changing from 'natural' 
lettering 'above the belt' to black printing.  The tilted MAIN TUNING 
knob skirt was much less susceptible to glare, and the 'PTO in Use' 
fiducial was a nice change.  There were small circuit changes, mostly 
values in the AVC, NB and a couple other places, but nothing drastic.


I still think the "B" is the best of the bunch, if for no other reason 
than that the design is the same as the R-4, just refined after building 
about 7000 of the earlier versions.!


Personally, I think the Sherwood R-4C is 'better', ONLY if you need the 
close in IM protection.  Let's face it, about the only place you find 
that to be a problem is either on low band contest weekends or low band 
DX pileups.  For day to day hamming in our relatively wide open bands, I 
prefer the Passband tuner to the crystal filters.  I find the steep 
sided crystal filters to have a 'harsher' sound, and I like to know 
what's going on around 'MY' frequency, just at reduced levels.


I have at least two each of the R-4(any) receivers, and the B-Line is 
the pair on the main desk.  The 7 Line is nice on the other desk, but if 
you can't 'dip the plate'.  The S-Line and the rest are shelved or 
in a closet, or the garage.


As my baby sister used to say, 'Tweechies own'!  :-)

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



y...@aol.com wrote:
Have a very nice Drake R4/T4X/ AC-4/ MS-4 all the gear is real clean 
and operates just fine. My question is why is the early 4 line gear 
worth next to nothing, when compared to the rest of the 4 line. I have 
owned a B-line,a C-line in the past ,both good performers,B being my 
choice between the two. I find the early 4 line performance ,from my 
ear and operation just as good as my B-line. Of course I never had the 
chance to run them side by side,and the mind can play tricks, they 
perform so close in real life operation,they seem almost the same to 
me. Watching QTH and Ebay I see the 4A and 4B gear go for twice the 
price all most all the time ,over the 4 gear. I realize that Drake 
made some mechanical and operational changes thru the years,but basic 
radio performance is not that different. I had a full Drake/Sherwood C 
line , and it was the BEST of the lot,but they will go for BIG $$$ 
used. I was just curious, so I thought I would as a few others opinions .

thanks for reading.
dale wt4t

   


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Re: [Drakelist] value of early drake gear

2011-06-12 Thread Paul Christensen
"...worth next to nothing, when compared to the rest of the 4 line. I have 
owned a B-line,a C-line in the past ,both good performers,B being my 
choice between the two. I find the early 4 line performance ,from my ear 
and operation just as good as my B-line. Of course I never had the chance 
to run them side by side..."


For the past month, I've been running my R-4B and Sherwood R-4C 
side-by-side.  The R-4B has been a more enjoyable receiver to use, although 
the "modded" R-4C is incredibly good in tight band spaces among strong 
signals.  High S/N R-4Cs seem to command the highest prices in the 4 line, 
but if one wants to later change the R-4C with all the Sherwood mods, I'm 
not sure why a high S/N matters.  The only real consideration in my 
selection among S/Ns had to do with getting one with metal/Nylon mesh gears 
only because to me, that combination produces the most solid tuning feel 
among the dozen or so R-4Cs I've owned in the last twenty years.  My R-4C is 
around S/N 26,950.


When I received my R-4B earlier this year, it was my first.  I absolutely 
hated it.  But the root cause for that hate was in the power supply 
filtering.  Enough ripple had caused CW and SSB transmissions to sound 
"fuzzy," resulting in a high amount of audio IMD.  The fuzz went away when 
the main supply cap was changed and that lead to my OCD taking over and 
making many other changes to the R-4B that are documented in the list 
archives.


The R-4B is capable of truly Hi-Fi audio.  Unfortunately, the R-4C's 
greatest strength is also one of its greatest weaknesses.  For example, 
low-frequency (below ~ 300 Hz) and upper SSB frequency audio response is 
forever compromised owing to the use of cascaded crystal filters.  In recent 
years with DSP transmit IF schemes, enough SSB stations have now expanded 
the TX SSB audio passband to 100Hz - 3000 Hz where the difference in 
perceived audio balance can be remarkable in instances when the received 
signal strength is strong.  This distinction can be easily heard with the B, 
but not the C.   In a nutshell, my R-4C will be used for tough band 
conditions and the R-4B used for ragchews on both SSB and CW.


Paul, W9AC





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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Issue

2011-06-12 Thread Jim Shorney
On Sun, 12 Jun 2011 23:37:44 +, Windows Live Team wrote:

>AC4 keeps blowing fuses when the power to the T4XB is turned on. Anybody have 
>ideas?
  
Something is shorted somewhere in the power supply or radio.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Issue

2011-06-12 Thread Robert Ladden
First check out the AC-4. Start 
with http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/PowerSupplyTroubleshooting.htm
73,Bob WW3QB

--- On Sun, 6/12/11, Windows Live Team  wrote:

From: Windows Live Team 
Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4 Issue
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Sunday, June 12, 2011, 7:37 PM





 
AC4 keeps blowing fuses when the power to the T4XB is turned on. Anybody have 
ideas?

Thanks & 73,

Jude WD9FUM
  

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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4 Issue

2011-06-12 Thread y...@aol.com

 

 


 

 

-Original Message-
From: y...@aol.com 


JUDE
Separate the supply from the radio , put in a new fuse, jumper position 1 
and 2 on the end of the power cable, a heavy short piece of wire, and plug in 
the supply. If the fuse does NOT blow, looks like you have a problem in the 
rig. Get the schematic of the supply and if the supply looks good,check the 
supply voltages. BE CAREFUL, VOLTAGES ON THE SUPPLY CAN KILL YOU.
good luck
dale wt4t

 

 


 

 

-Original Message-
From: Windows Live Team 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sun, Jun 12, 2011 7:37 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] AC-4 Issue


AC4 keeps blowing fuses when the power to the T4XB is turned on. Anybody have 
ideas?

Thanks & 73,

Jude WD9FUM
   =
 
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4 birdies

2011-06-12 Thread y...@aol.com

 

 


 

 

-Original Message-
From: y...@aol.com 
To: k4...@mindspring.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 12, 2011 7:50 pm
Subject: R-4 birdies


 Hi  Garey ,and all the others who had  thoughts, on my problem
 

 The problem is solved. Put the R-4 on the bench, tightened ALL the screws on 
the chassis ,re soldered  all the connections between the the ant input to the 
12bz6 and hit a few others,especially grounds, and deoxited  the switch's. 
she's rearing to go,audio also improved. Will change all the big caps and check 
the resisters in the power supply soon. Now if I only had a better sig 
gen,would go for a alignment. So no more birdies ,better audio ...life is good 
,at least for now.
thanks for all the info and help from everybody.
73's dale wt4t


 
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Re: [Drakelist] R-4 birdies

2011-06-12 Thread Garey Barrell

Dale -

OK.  So what you had was a bad ground connection, probably the shield 
connection for the ANT jack, that was allowing the shield of the short 
coax to 'float', and the center conductor to essentially be a short antenna.


As Richard said, there may have been signals coming from the R-4 that 
were being picked up by the nearby 'antenna'.  Or you may have improved 
the grounding of the receiver on other circuits and bypasses.


Going through a piece of equipment and tightening all the hardware is 
never a bad idea.  Just don't go tightening all those loose screws in 
the little metal cans on top of the chassis!  :-0


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



y...@aol.com wrote:





-Original Message-
From: y...@aol.com 
To: k4...@mindspring.com
Sent: Sun, Jun 12, 2011 7:50 pm
Subject: R-4 birdies

Hi  Garey ,and all the others who had  thoughts, on my problem

The problem is solved. Put the R-4 on the bench, tightened ALL the 
screws on the chassis ,re soldered  all the connections between the 
the ant input to the 12bz6 and hit a few others,especially grounds, 
and deoxited  the switch's. she's rearing to go,audio also improved. 
Will change all the big caps and check the resisters in the power 
supply soon. Now if I only had a better sig gen,would go for a 
alignment. So no more birdies ,better audio ...life is good ,at least 
for now.

thanks for all the info and help from everybody.
73's dale wt4t
   


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