[Drakelist] TR-7 Station For Sale - Available at Richmond, VA "Frostfest" on Saturday February 2nd
I decided to thin the herd a bit and let go of my TR7 station and will have it available at the Richmond, Virginia “Frostfest” coming up on February 2nd. A nice rig that has just become excess to my needs. — TR-7 HF transceiver with AUX-7 board — Filters: 6 kHz AM/2.3 kHz SSB/1.8 kHz (SSB/data) and 300 Hz CW — Matching PS7 12VDC power supply — NB7 Noise Blanker option — MS7 Station Speaker — RV7 Remote VFO for split frequency operation — SP75 Speech Processor — P75 Phone Patch — Original manual and service manual — Extensive station info binder — PCB extender service boards I will have a video available showing proper operation and output power at the hamfest. Prefer not to ship….asking $1150 for the set. Hope to see you there! 73 - Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Fwd: Looking for a Drake TSM1000A Satellite Meter Manual
Thanks to Jerry WA8R who forwarded a copy of the manual not long after I put out my request. That’s what I love about the ham, and most especially the Drake, community…always willing to help out. Enjoy the rest of the holiday weekend! 73 - Dino KL0S > Begin forwarded message: > > From: Dino Papas > Subject: Looking for a Drake TSM1000A Satellite Meter Manual > Date: September 2, 2018 at 8:22:22 PM EDT > To: Mail List - Drake Gear > > Little off Drake HF gear topic but just acquired a Drake TSM1000A Satellite > Meter in pristine shape. But I’m not able to find a manual anywhere on the > web. If anyone has one in paper or electron form please contact me off list. > > Thanks in advance! > > 73 - Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Looking for a Drake TSM1000A Satellite Meter Manual
Little off Drake HF gear topic but just acquired a Drake TSM1000A Satellite Meter in pristine shape. But I’m not able to find a manual anywhere on the web. If anyone has one in paper or electron form please contact me off list. Thanks in advance! 73 - Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Good evening, Drakelist
I’d venture to say that anytime you see a message with ONLY a web link in the message block that should make you run for the hills. One nice thing about Apple’s mail client is that you can hover above one of these links without clicking on it and see what the actual address of the link is. Dino KL0S (I’m not repeating the link below just in case someone may inadvertently click on it! On Jan142014, at 1540 PM, neil wrote: > On 1/14/2014 2:28 PM, Karl Corder wrote: >> Tue, 14 Jan 2014 19:28:09 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Capacitor value
Shows as a .005 cap on the three versions of the schematic I have Steve. 73 - Dino KL0S On Jun032012, at 2144 PM, Steve wrote: > I am working on bringing back to life a 2B and am find that someone removed a > capacitor in the crystal oscillator section. It is C76 and I am unable to > read it's value from the schematic that I have. Can anyone take a look at a > there "good schematic" and let me know its value please.. > > thanks Steve NU0P ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] List Test
Sorry for the bandwidthtrying to make sure my "too many bounces" condition gets resolved. Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] low plate voltgage l4b
Marc - I just rebuilt the L-7PS with a Harbach board (and a L-4PS with the Heathkit Shop board)Both boards show 2700 volts on the amp meters after putting them into operation. Did you do a low-voltage test before installing? I applied a 20VAC voltage to the input and got ~50VDC at the outputs verifying the voltage doubler function. You may want to give that a trysounds like a part reversal during install. Dino KL0S On Feb202012, at 1050 AM, hs0zju wrote: > I recently aquired a l4b. I upgraded the ps and soft key with harbach. I > turned the amp on in ssb with no load and have 2400 volts. I did not try and > key or do anything else as i do not want to cause damage. I believe i should > have 2600volts. > > 73 marc hs0zju ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4 rebuild
Thanks Rickthe supply is sitting there on the floor saying "replace my resistors too!" I may have to listen to it! 73 - Dino On Feb192012, at 1221 PM, richard radke wrote: > Dino, > > I had a bleeder go several years ago when the glitch resistor blew with a > BANG! I could only tell by a hairline crack in the body (can't remember if I > did a resistance ck 1st or not). Took it out and it promptly fell apart. > Did a rebuild with one of Mike's board and replaced both bleeders. Other > than a tube flash-over it's been working well > > Rick > W9WS ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds
I finally bit the bullet yesterday and got around to rebuilding my L-4BPS and L7PS supplies, one with a Heathkit Shop board and the other with the Harbach version. Both procedures went well, with the second going a LOT faster than the first! I will be rebuilding a friend's L-4BPS next week and figured I could minimize the time to do his by working out the bugs doing mine. As my L-4B is my main amp, and based on Evan's note to me a few years ago, I went ahead and changed out the 5K 7W resistor with the 13W version, replaced the 0.82 ohm HV line resistor and the 50K 50W bleeders as a precautionary measure. In the other amp I guess I was just lazy and simply installed only the Harbach board. Now sitting here thinking about it should I go back and just get it over with and replace the resistors in the L7PS? Has anyone ever had a bleeder go bad? Or the others for that matter. Sure, age will wear anything down. Also, the Harbach board doesn't include the diode balancing resistors that Mike's board does...as the original Drake diode strings used 'em what exactly is the difference? Do modern (read that "better") diodes still need that protection? I'm just curious. I was pretty impressed that my 32 year old L-4BPS kept going like the Energizer Bunny all these years and I didn't notice any deterioration at all on the bodies of the orange electrolyticsbut, better safe than sorry and I'm looking forward to many more years of reliable operation with both amps. Thoughts? Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4B
OR, and this is a big "OR," is it possible that even though the previous owner had 10m privileges that the amp was a late run version that did not include 10m??? My L-4B was one of those animals and I had to get the 10m input coil kit from Drake then carefully rub off the small dots of gray paint on the front panel that covered the "10m" markings thus making it a fully capable all-band amp (at the time anyway). Long shot but you never know! HNY to all! (and you to Don!) 73 - Dino KL0S On Jan012012, at 1218 PM, Don Cunningham wrote: > Bill, > I am a novice at the L4B, but many of the old T4XB's I got at hamfests in the > 80's and repaired had been "re-tuned" for 11 meters instead of 10M. You > might check the input tuning and see if that occurred to yours!! Just a > thought. > 73, > Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] A dumb ? maybe TR-7 case color
Garey is absolutely right, I never thought the type light made that much difference until recently when the XYL and I bought some new furniture and in the showroom under fluorescent lights our sofa/recliners appeared brown but when we took a swatch of the material outside under natural light they are definitely green! Don - I thought I was the only one who confused 'dem things on my feet? ;-) Dino KL0S On Oct282011, at 1408 PM, Garey Barrell wrote: > The color temperature of the light has a LOT to do with the 'color' that you > see. Especially now with CFLs that come in multiple variations of 'white'. > The 'Daylight' or 6500 degree Kelvin > CFLs are great for natural color for photography. PLUS they are a LOT > cooler than the old 500W photoflood bulbs that we used to use! > > Best is good ol' sunlight, which is why you never realize you have mismatched > socks until you go outside to get into the car! > > By the way, should some smart-aleck notice, and be rude enough mention, your > different socks, merely tell them that you're glad they like them, you have > another pair at home just like them! > > -- > 73, Garey - K4OAH > St Charles, IL > > Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line > and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > > > Don Cunningham wrote: >> They all look black to me, Curt. But then, I confuse socks too, hi. >> 73, >> Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 10 Mtrs on a L7
In addition, before doing a lot of surgery you should check the input coil "box" on the bottom of the amp and count the number of caps that are across the coils and compare that to the number you see on the schematic of a export version amp as those two 68pf caps MAY already be there. In my L7 they wereI'm thinking that some of the amps may have been fitted with the caps even though intended for the ham marketmy L7 purchased used from another ham worked just fine on 10m without modificationthe 10m markings were missing but the bandswitch had a 10m position (possibly opened by my previous owner)the two additional caps didn't look like after factory additionsif you look down where those caps need to go I think it would take a three-handed miniature monkey with extra long forceps to even get them down in to position, much less solder them inothers had said they had no problemsYMMV. So much easier to mod my brand new L-4B back in the day as it was all nice and open and the mod kit from Drake did the trickthe 10m band numbers on the front panel were delicately covered over with gray paint and a gentle rub with a pencil eraser brought them to the forefrontstill chugging along since 1979 with the original tubes. 73 - Dino KL0S On Oct192011, at 1246 PM, K9sqg wrote: > Woody and Everyone, > > There are four basic things that have to be done on an L7 to get it on 10 > meters. > > 1. Bypass/remove the 10 meter filter board on the input circuit. > > 2. Remove the mechanical stop on the bandswitch; there are at least two, and > possibly more, ways in which Drake implemented it so you have to adjust your > approach commensurate with what was used on your amp. It can get ugly and be > aware of dropped parts that go into unwanted places. Use of blue "Painters' > tape" can help to catch the falling parts. > > 3. Install two 68 pf mica caps on the input circuit per the article that is > out on the Internet. I have it but don't have time right now to post the > link or reference. Removing the bandswitch shaft is necessary to do this > properly. > > 4. Adjust the 15 meter input coil as warranted. > > 73, > > Evan, K9SQG > > > -Original Message- > From: Woody > To: Drake List > Sent: Wed, Oct 19, 2011 7:40 am > Subject: [Drakelist] 10 Mtrs on a L7 > > Hello Everyone from a Very Cool "Heart of Dixie" > What has to be done to the L7 to get it to work on 10 Mtrs? Now before you > get too technical on me remember I'm Dumb as a Rock, so please explain in > lets say Electronics for Dummies mode. > Thanks > Woody > > -- > > If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which > includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not > wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. > > If you are including me in a multi-address email, please use the Bcc > feature. In your email address which will be under the TO: block. It still > sends emails the same but everyone does not see the other address only > theirs. > Thanks > "Woody" > > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B Update
Good deal Joe! According to my DXing friends (since I'm off the air with the impending sale of our QTH) have been telling me the bands have been really crappy so I think the lack of signals on 10/15m is probably not a problem with your rig, especially if your sig gen is being heard ok. Let us know how the recap goesI'll be doing mine at the next place. 73 - Dino KL0S On Jun092011, at 1041 AM, Joe Connor wrote: > I have some good news. > > If you recall, my 2B had a 6BE6 installed as V-6, the AM detector. > Yesterday, I got a NOS 6BF6 and plugged it in. It made a very big difference. > The set now performs extremely well in Diode/AM mode. It also performs well > with the Product Detector and BFO on. > > I've been receiving a lot of amateur transmissions, mostly SSB, on 80m, > 40m and 20m. So far, 15m and 10m have been relatively dead. Does that sound > like an issue of propagation or does it suggest a receiver problem? My signal > generator comes in loud and clear on both 10m and 15m. > > I received a new electrolytic can and plan to install that today. The > can currently in the set is rated for only 150 WVDC and appears to be > original. That voltage rating seems a bit low to me. The new one is rated for > 250 WVDC. I bought the new one at http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/ > > I've located a few crystals at a reasonable price and hope to receive > them soon. They should give me coverage of the 49m, 25m and 31m bands. At the > hamfests this summer, I'll keep my eyes open for more crystals. I would like > to have the 19m band, as well as the broadcast band. Eventually, I plan to > buy the "good" manual that contains all the details etc. at > http://www.k4oah.com/Drake_new7/index.html > > Finally, I'd like to thank you all for your help. With your assistance, > it looks like I'm well on my way to having a real "keeper." I'll keep you > posted on how the general-coverage crystals work out. > > >Joe Connor ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Fwd: Drake 2B
Ops, forgot to send to the list in case others are interested. Begin forwarded message: > From: Dino Papas > Date: Jun 05, 2011 0859 AM EDT > To: posta_libero > Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B > > Sure, Garey has a CD available for the TR-4 as well: > > http://www.k4oah.com/Drake_new7/TR-4.html > > 73 - Dino KL0S > > On Jun052011, at 0857 AM, posta_libero wrote: > >> ciao i have a drake tr4 is possible have a service manual for this? >> you know ? >> thanks >> giuseppe >> italy > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B
Joe - you may want to check out Garey's CD service manual for the 2B at: http://www.k4oah.com/Drake_new7/2-B.html 73 - Dino KL0S On Jun042011, at 2346 PM, Joe Connor wrote: > Today, I picked up a very beat-up Drake 2B at a garage sale, and I need some > help and advice: > > 1. The set works well on 80m and 40m but does not seem to work well on 10m, > 15m or 20m. What should I be looking at to diagnose the problem? Am I correct > in suspecting the crystals for those bands? (For the record, I had to replace > the 6U8, which had lost vacuum, and I have to replace the 6BF6, which tests > bad). I used a signal generator and could get a signal through on 10m, 15m or > 20m only intermittently. I tried several different 6U8s. > > 2. Eventually, I would like to use this receiver for SWLing. Can anyone > recommend a source for crystals? Anyone have any extras for sale? > > 3. Are there any other known issues with the 2B or any suggested mods that I > should be aware of? > > 4. Are there any diagrams showing the numbers of the the coils and > transformers used for alignment. For example, the manual says to adjust L-9 > as part of the crystal oscillator alignment. How do I know where L-9 is? > > As always, thank you for your advice and guidance. > > > Joe Connor ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 2-C PS Cap replacement
Check out: http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/capinfo2C.htm On May232011, at 1639 PM, Darrell Gordon wrote: > Has anyone done a recap on a 2-C? Any ideas of sourcing the can > (20-40-60uf@150V)? It doesn’t appear I’ll be able to gut the cap case and > put new caps inside due to space problems. Two might fit, but three? Of > course I could leave the can and add new to a terminal strip below, but that > hints on abomination. I’ve looked all around and not having much luck. Any > advice greatly appreciated. 73, de Darrell W4CX ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Harbach Soft Start in L4B
Woody - If it's working correctly you should hear the relay engage within about a half second after turning on the power switchyou'll then hear it disengage about a second after powering the amp down. Sounds like you still have some kind of problem with either a part or the wiring. Dino KL0S On Apr062011, at 1559 PM, Woody wrote: > Hello again, > In my last post on this I had ordered new parts for the relay board, we > got it installed easily enough. When I turn it on we do not hear the click as > stated in the instructions, how do I know if it is working or not?? I got all > the Drake line set up and even though I've had the Flu for the past week and > a half with various trips to the Doc's a friend of mine W0MKL (Mike) got all > of it set up, C4, L4B, TR4C, RV4C, MN2000 and of course MS4, looks beautiful > hooked up and going again. But not sure of the Soft Start in L4B. Any > thoughts? > Thanks Again > Woody (KO4BG) ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps
"Don's" - I was surprised recently as well when using my Weller 100/140 gun to reattach the power switch leads on my L-4Bthe gun just wouldn't get hot enough to make a good solder joint. For grins I fired up my Weller soldering station and popped one of the larger size tips in, set it for 700 degrees and that smaller tip made quick work of those connectionsI didn't think that thing had enough "umphh" but it sure did. Moral of the story...don't underestimate your bench soldering station for generating sufficient heat to make those larger connectionsI think that tip would do just fine under a Drake chassis for refitting caps. BTW, I bought up a whole set of Hayseed kits for all the Drake gear laying around herenow all I have to do is find time to get them onto the bench for their surgery! Dino KL0S On Mar272011, at 2237 PM, Don Cunningham wrote: > Don, > I couldn't get my 100/140 gun to do much more than move the solder around a > bit on the chassis. I had the same trouble on my outside antenna wires, so I > treated myself to a new 200/260 Weller, and it WILL do the job, hi. Others > recommend the huge irons, but I went the bigger gun route as I didn't think > the huge iron would easily handle the antenna wiring. It sure makes a lot > better connections on my wire antennas, and gets PL-259's hot enough quickly > to solder the shields. The only advice I might offer using the smaller > Weller might be to "break" the old can off the tabs, making a little less > heat sink??? I'm not sure how that would work, but might be worth a try. > Good luck!! > 73, > Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L4B Question
Woody - Well, it's been 32 years since I did the 10m mod on my new L-4B but as I recall you should be able to simply replace the LP filter with a straight piece of coax (can't help with the 10m input coil/cap procurement). Once that's done you should have no problem putting the Soft-Start PCB in placeI just did it a couple of weeks ago. Contrary to the instructions my amp actually had the terminal strip oriented such that I didn't have to move it...I THINK it was built that way to accommodate the LP filter box and thus no moving required. Am sure one of the guys will chime in with info about the input components. If you look at the front panel you'll probably see that there's a small spot of gray paint in the place where the "10" should be on the plate tuning and band switch. Back in the day I took an eraser and gently removed that paint to reveal the numeralsYMMV. Good luck! 73 - Dino KL0S On Mar232011, at 0855 AM, Woody wrote: > Hello, as you will be able to tell I'm not a tech, just a broke down Old > Vietnam Vet who loves Drakes and am lucky enough to have a good collection. > My question is I am in the process of redoing a L4B, using the Harbach Mods, > soft start, soft key and power supply kit. I am having problems finding a > place to mount the soft start, there is a alu. box mounted under the bottom, > this is where the soft start needs too mount, can I remove this without any > problems? I was told it was a low pass filter,And also where can I get the 10 > mtr tuned input so that it could be used on 10 if I ever wanted to? It > doesn't have the tuned input for 10, and the band sw has blue dots in that > position. Sorry for being so dumb. > Thanks > Woody (KO4BG) ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] AC-4
Same for meeasy build, easy install, great performanceno-brainer. Dino KL0S On Feb242011, at 1222 PM, ph...@aol.com wrote: > This is all you need. Just did one a couple of months ago, works great! > > http://www.theheathkitshop.com/page7/page7.html > > 73/Paul, K4MSG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake 2-C/2-CQ Available
In anticipation of a QTH move I'm trying to thin the herdI have a second 2-C/2-CQ that I'd like to get to someone who will appreciate the pair. The receiver has both the calibrator and noise limiter accessories installed. Minimal pitting on the radio's chassis, serial number in the low 400's. Rig was on the bench yesterday to verify proper operation. I'm always amazed at how well a good Q-multiplier works! Will make a nice pair with a 2-NT. I'm asking $395 plus packing and shipping at the UPS store to ensure it gets to where it's going in A-1 condition. First postal money order takes it. Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Use of vtvm & Signal genorator
Mike - if you're an ARRL member there are lots of articles in past QST magazines that may get you started. One series by Doug DeMaw W1FB (SK) might be a good place to start. It was a four-part series titled "Basic Equipment Servicing" that ran in QST from December 1981 thru March 1982. You can download them from the Archives section of the ARRL web site. Good Luck! 73 - Dino KL0S On Feb012011, at 0918 AM, Richard Tucker wrote: > Michael, > The best thing to do is get started. I have an old ARRL publication which > has helped me with basic trouble shooting and helped me learn a few things > along the way. It is Understanding Amateur Radio, end ed., 1976. It has > chapters on: Some Needed fundamentals, How receivers work, and a good section > on troubleshooting. > Rick > W0RT > Kansas > - Original Message - > From: Michael Harden > To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net > Sent: Monday, January 31, 2011 11:35 PM > Subject: [Drakelist] Use of vtvm & Signal genorator > > I hope this question isn't out of place, here, however I need some answers! > I am new to radio repair and have some Hammarlund and Drake rigs I would like > to refurbish. My lack of experience and knowledge has brought me here. > I have read that using a VTVM and a Signal generator is very helpful in this > enterprise. I have some experience with a vom , however I have none with a > signal generator. > My question is, is this the correct choice and should I endeavor to acquire > and learn to use them. > Mike > KD0ACY > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4B Plate Tuning Cap Question
Dennis - I don't know if it's gonna work but I have a couple of vernier drives that I got from MFJ in anticipation of building some receiver projects. The drive is a 6:1 unitafter I rebuild my supply I'm going to take the amp apart and see if this drive will work. Will report back once I do it but perhaps someone has already done such a repair and can let us know. Dino On Jan132011, at 11:07 PM, Dennis Monticelli wrote: > Is there a new replacement drive for the L4B and L7 verniers that can be > purchased? > > Dennis AE6C ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L-4B Plate Tuning Cap Question
Well, today in anticipation of rebuilding my L-4BPS I decided to finally install the Harbach soft-start module in the amp (hey, its only been sitting in the project queue for a few yearsno sense in rushing). While I had it open did the normal maintenance stuff, lubed the fan etc. I've had a problem now for a couple of months with the plate tuning cap turning action. Somewhere between the 80m and 40m sections the turning action slows down to a standstill and you'd have to spin the knob several times to get it to move VERY slowly thru its rotation. With the amp opened up I found that a little bit of pressure applied either as a push or pull would get the cap to rotate at almost normal speed throughout its rotation. Not wanting to screw something up I decided to leave it alone and check with the group. It may just be that after 32 years the rotation mechanism is just wearing out. Anyone else experience this? If so any fixes? Thanks in advance! Dino KL0S BTW, the Harbach module works greatthe power supply board is built and ready to install but think I've done enough for today! ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L-4B/L-7 Power Switch Potential Replacement
Guys - I know we've batted this issue around a lot and I'm always on the lookout for a source of the "unobtainium" power switches for our amps. I feel fortunate that I had a spare set to replace my switches and then was able to refurbish the set removed for future use. Recently I found an ad at: https://www.surpluscenter.com/home.asp that included what could be a potential replacement switch. As I don't need them myself I thought I'd let folks know about this source and perhaps someone can do some further investigating and report back to the group. The switch I found is on page 30 of the Surplus Center's catalog supplement which can be downloaded at: https://www.surpluscenter.com/catreq.asp It may take some effort to make it work if it will work at all, but hey at only $1.49, well you never know. Anyway, am hoping this pans out for the guys who need a replacement source. GL - Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] MS-7 speaker improvement
Evan - thanks for the suggestion. I just happened to have some of that acoustic foam laying around and am glad I didn't throw it out as I couldn't think of anything to do with it! Just got done putting a piece in both my MS-4 and MS-7 speakers and unless it's acting as a "placebo" the audio does sound a little better. I had a piece of styrofoam in the MS-4 from a previous hint but the foam seems to make more of a difference. Thanks for prompting me to give this a tryworth the two minutes it took to cut two pieces of foam and stick them in the back of the speakers. 73 - Dino KL0S On 13Nov2010, at 11:00 AM, K9sqg wrote: > > Fellow Drake enthusiasts, > > A number of people have contacted me about the Drake MS-7 speaker so I > thought I would just spread the word via the Reflector. I certainly don't > want to encourage any debate on the topic but your thoughts are always > appreciated. Although Drake gear is the mainstay of my station, the MS-7 > speaker is basically not there. The reason is that the frequency response > and overall sound is not as good, in my opinion, as the internal speaker in > the TR-7 nor the MS-4 speaker. But here is something that I have done by > experiment to improve the MS-7. One thing is just to block off the back of > the speaker which seems to eliminate some of the hollowness of the sound. > However, what I find works best is to find some acoustical foam, used to line > speaker cabinets, walls, etc. and cut a piece to fit inside the speaker case, > 6 inches by 4 inches seems to work fine. Install it with the cones of the > foam facing the speaker but don't put it in all the way otherwise it might > actually touch the speaker cone itself. To me, this brings the MS-7 up to the > level of "barely adequate". What I use as my primary speakers is the MS-4 > speaker which has better bass response and intrinsically seems to filter out > some of the hiss and high frequency static that is more pronounced with a > smaller speaker. Too, adding acoustic foam to the MS-4 will improve it > somewhat too. Listening to the MS-4 seems to be less fatiguing. Your > mileage might vary. Hence, I've sold off the six or so MS-7 speakers I had > and only have one left that I use for experimentation and such. > > The MS-7 is nice for rounding out the Drake 7 line but, for enjoyable > listening, I prefer the MS-4. I'm sure there are many that find the MS-7 > speaker to be preferable and that's great. With ham stations, you can mix > and match to your satisfaction. Enjoy those Drakes! > > 73, > > Evan, K9SQG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Hooking up my C line?
Ditto on Don's comments about really needing the manual to help your understanding of all the interconnections. BTW, there is 12VDC available on the bottom two pins of that 4-pin socket on the backI've used that to power my SP75 speech processor for yearsone less wall wart to have kicking around. Dino KL0S On 30Oct2010, at 1:08 PM, Don Cunningham wrote: > Howard, > These questions make me ask "do you have manuals for these rigs"?? You > really MUST have at least CD copies of the manuals for tuning instructions, > etc that are CRITICAL to usage. > > The two "special" cables are for INJECTION and CARRIER OSCILLATOR. The > others are label to label, as you suspected. The round 4 pin socket is for > some accessory I have never used in my 30+ years of using these rigs, you > probably don't need it, hi. > > The AM filter is inside the rig, again, shown in the manual clearly. I think > it is plug in, but I could be wrong. Ask again in a few weeks when I get > back inside mine and I'll confirm that. The RCA jack on the AC4 is for ALC, > the 2 pin plug is for keying relay (usually labeled VOX). John Kriner has an > Ebay store (The Man's Electronics or similar to that. He goes by tr7dude on > Ebay). He sells a conversion kit to make that 2 pin plug an RCA jack that is > neat. Around 15 bucks. > > Again, you really need to get manuals if you don't have them, Howard. > 73, > Don, WB5HAK ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4A restuff capacitor question
Just for everyone's info I just got done conversing with Tom at Hayseed about kits and shipping charges. If you order multiple kits the PayPal system will include S/H for EACH kit but as Tom pointed out there is a maximum shipping/handling charge of $10; until he can fix the web site system his temporary fix is to credit back the difference above $10 to the customer. All this talk earlier about recapping got me to thinking about winter projects so I'm getting Tom's 2-B, 2-C, R-4C and T-4XC kits to add to the project queue for colder days. BTW, Tom has been off the list for a while but intends to return soon. Dino KL0S On 17Sep2010, at 2:49 PM, ph...@aol.com wrote: > Joe, > > You can buy complete re-capping kits for the R-4A (both 13 and 11-tube > versions) from Hayseed Hamfest at the following link: > > http://www.hayseedhamfest.com/ > > I just re-capped one of each type using the Hayseed Hamfest kits and they > work great! Garey is correct, the can cap supplied in the kit for either > version is the same, i.e., three (3) 100 uf sections and one (1) 22 uf > section. On some R-4A 13-tube jobs the 22 uf section isn't used, but on > others it is and the extra 22 uf electrolytic in the kit isn't needed. > You'll have to look carefully at how yours is configured and proceed from > there, possibly even tracing the circuit to make sure you know which > electrolytics are used and where. If you have the *ORIGINAL* manual for your > radio the schematic is probably correct, but if you have a copy of the manual > there's a better than even chance that what the schematic shows is not > exactly how the radio is configured. > > The only real difficulty with installing the kit is unsoldering and > removing the old can. Since one of the soldered ground lugs is practically > underneath the little transformer you'll have to unbolt the transformer and > move it aside. One of the screws for the transformer is underneath the PTO > assembly but you should be able to see it and get the screw head rotated so > that you can stick a small screwdriver blade into the slot to hold it while > you back off the nut holding the transformer, and later tighten the nut when > you reinstall the transformer. > > Then all you need is a big soldering iron or gun and some braid (they > supply some with the re-cap kit) or a good solder-sucker. I used a Weller > 200/260 gun and it did OK. > > 73/arf, > > Paul, K4MSG > > > In a message dated 9/17/2010 12:46:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > k4...@mindspring.com writes: > Joe - > > Well, the first question is, where do you come up with five caps? The > original R-4A is a three section, 100/100/100 @ 200 VDC. Another > section, 20 @ 200 was added 'officially' in the second version, at s/n > 3040. But both three and four sections caps have been found 'in the > wild' in the early version one units. > > Tom at www.hayseedhamfest.com has replacements in stock generally that > drop right in. I think he supplies four section caps for all versions. > > Adding caps under the chassis works too, just be sure to disconnect the > can cap terminals completely. It can be a little crowded. > > Ultimately, it's your radio and your decision! :-) > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line& > TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > > > > Joe Loverti wrote: > > Hi guys, > > I'm working on a early serial number (2213) 13-tube R4A receiver. I'd > > like to restuff the electrolytic can with new capacitors. It looks > > like a very tight fit using (4) 100 x 250V and (1) 20 x 250V new caps > > (total of 5 capacitors) in that old can. How do you feel about > > mounting new caps in underneath the chassis instead of restuffing? > > Does that pretty much ruin the historic value of a radio? Of course, > > I'd leave the old can in place for looks. > > Thanks for you opinions in advance. > > Joe > > WW8X > > > > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist > ___ > Drakelist mailing list > Drakelist@zerobeat.net > http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] PSK31 & B-Line Twins
And, oh by the way, a direct connection allows any other computer sounds
("you've got mail", "boing", etc. etc.) that are played while you're
transmitting to go right along with your audio tones. The best way to prevent
that is to use a dedicated interface with a built-in sound card that precludes
that situation from occurring. There is another company that sells interface
boxes, microHAM:
http://www.microham.com/
Dino KL0S
On 17Sep2010, at 9:58 AM, Curt Nixon wrote:
> While you can do the interconnect directly, if you choose to do it without
> isolation, you face two potentially big issues.
> 1. ground loop induced noise in tx and rx. This can render the system
> non-decodable in tx and no decodes in rx.
> 2. Potential for destrying the PC card and or Keying port if you use hard
> keying.
>
> Will it work? Probably. But it's like tempting fate with no isolation.
>
> JMHO
>
> Curt
>
> Garey Barrell wrote:
>> Hi Bill -
>>
>> Well, not much All you have to do is put receiver audio into the PC
>> sound card, and sound card output into the transmitter MIC.
>>
>> You CAN plug the SPKR output from the R-4B into the LINE IN or MIC input on
>> the computer with the appropriate adapters, and plug the LINE OUT or SPKR
>> OUT of the computer into the MIC connector of the T-4XB, again with the
>> appropriate adapters.
>>
>> You then have to adjust the various levels, R-4B AF GAIN, the input level
>> for the PC, the output level for the PC and the GAIN control on the T-4XB so
>> that nothing is overdriven. IF you use the MIC input on either unit, you
>> may need a resistive divider to drop the input level enough to prevent
>> overdriving.
>>
>> OR, you can purchase one of the following hardware interconnect devices.
>> Some provide transformer isolation, adjustable levels, cables, etc. and come
>> complete with directions for installation.
>>
>> RigExpert
>>
>> Tigertronics SignaLink
Re: [Drakelist] 2B dial button database
My 2-B SN#3608 has a red button. Dino KL0S On 18Aug2010, at 9:57 PM, ph...@aol.com wrote: > So far on the 2B front-glass-move-the-dial button we have: > > #2052no buttonK4MSG > #2277no buttonW5GU > #4281white buttonWW3QB > > Any more? Just email the serial number, button status, and your callsign > and I'll enter them into the database. > > 73/Arf, > > Paul, K4MSG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] table saw for cutting phenolic and fiberglass boards
Evan - I bit the bullet a couple of years ago and bought a hobby shear brake for cutting PCBslittle pricey solution unless you have routine need for doing so but I found it to be the best (for me) method of getting nice clean, straight cuts for "Manhattan" style construction projects. Got mine from MicroMark but several sellers have similar type tools. 73 - Dino On 24Jul2010, at 10:10 PM, k9...@aol.com wrote: > > Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, > > Yes, the subject line is strange but trust me, it does relate to Drake. I'm > in the process of finalizing a project and will be describing it in some open > source publication or website. It relates to the power supplies used with > the Drake L4, L4B, and L7 linear amplifiers. > > As part of this project, I need to saw the phenolic boards used in the > supplies as well as sawing fiberglass-epoxy board, 1/8 inch thick, that is > similar to high quality printed circuit boards, only without any foil on > either side. My question is, can I use my table saw typically used to cut > wood, to cut the phenolic and the fiberglass-epoxy board? I'm not sure if > the material is so hard that it would cause heating and binding, or whether > it would rapidly dull the blade. Your expert advice would be greatly > appreciated. > > Enjoy those Drakes. > > 73, > > Evan ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] AC-4R Rebuild Success
After sitting in my project queue for a couple of years I finally got around to rebuilding my original 1969 vintage AC-4 using Mike Bryce's kit. I had stuffed the PCB a year or so ago but as the C-line was working ok there was no hurry. Only problem with the install were the PCB standoffs provided to install on the transformer bolts. Two of the aluminum standoffs wouldn't catch at all and the other two were not a positive lock. Luckily I had a collection of standoffs I got from DigiKey long ago and had some that were exactly the same lengthbut they were tapped for a smaller bolt than those on the transformer. But a little effort with my tap and die set had them installed in a jiffy. Fired the supply up on the bench and the HV/MV and bias readings were spot on. Back into place with the C-line, reset the bias according to the manual and powered uppower out was A-ok. BTW, I did check the old caps with my ESR meter and they tested ok'course the question is how many more years would they have done so? ;-) I did build myself up a fancy capacitor dishcharge stick to make sure the old caps were really dead before working on the supply (my younger days would have found me using a clip lead and a screwdriver but I've come along way!). Anyway, for those of you who haven't done the rebuild yet you may want to consider itit's easy to do and hopefully will provide another 30 years of service! Thanks to Mike for making the rebuild kits availablenext project is my 1979 vintage L-4B supply where I'll use the Harbach rebuild PCB kit and soft-start module (they've been sitting in the project queue for a while as well). 73 - Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Who sells the Drake CDs
http://www.k4oah.com/ On 28Jun2010, at 10:28 PM, Kevin Elliott wrote: > The CDs have the nice close-up pictures of all the components for the various > Drake rigs it covers. I seem to have lost the link. > > 73 – Kevin KG0MN > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] OT: QEX Collection for Sale
For all you technical types I have twelve years of QEX (1998-2009) for salegreat condition except for May/June 2005 issue which has pages 3-10 clipped out but I have replaced the pages with photocopies; all others complete. First $85 via PayPal gets them shipped to CONUS via media mail. If interested please contact me off list. Thanks. Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Video of 2010 Drake Forum at Hamvention
Thanks Evan! I had to leave the forum early and was really nice to see what I missed. Great solution to getting the forum out to the rest of Drakedomand the price is definitely right. CU all next year! 73 - Dino KL0S On 24May2010, at 9:50 PM, k9...@aol.com wrote: > Fellow Drake Enthusiasts, > > The first video of this year's Drake Forum is at http://vimeo.com/11865312 > for those that are interested. Another video is coming from Norway but I'm > not sure when it will be available. > > Please feel free to let us know any comments, questions, constructive > criticisms, suggestions, etc. that you might have so we can make next year's > Forum even better. > > Thanks and 73, > > The Drake Forum Committee ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] HAMVENTION DRAKE FORM
Schedule says Saturday from 1030 - 1130 in Room #2. Dino KL0S On 4May2010, at 9:51 AM, y...@aol.com wrote: > Where and when is the Drake form at Dayton this year? > dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] SPR-4 Freq Selector Dial
Jim - you might consider "Goo Gone" - does a great job with left over adhesive residue. Have never seen it discolor a plasticbut caveat emptor! You can get this stuff just about anywhere. 73 -- Dino KL0S On 11Apr2010, at 2:54 PM, Jim K5JG wrote: > I recently acquired an SPR-4 and want to reconfigure the crystal arrangement. > > Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to clean off the adhesive residue > left behind by 30-40 year-old stickers removed from the Frequency Selector > Dial? > > I am reluctant to try anything stronger than Dawn and warm water (which sort > of works) for fear of damaging the dial. I know Windex will loosen the sticky > stuff and makes it much easier to remove, but it contains ammonia which can > damage and/or discolor some plastics. > > Ideas? > > 73, Jim K5JG ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R-4B Headphones
Bill - I got mine a couple of years ago from "Califone" a company that makes audio stuff for school classroomswork good, can't beat the price! See: http://www.califone.com/products/2924av.php The 600 ohm mono headphones are Model 2924AVP. 73 - Dino KL0S On 21Mar2010, at 9:10 PM, Bill Ellis wrote: > Hi all, > > I'm looking for an inexpensive set of headphones for my R-4B. My military > surplus pair have died. Any recommendations? > > Thanks, > > Bill, WB9CAC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Crystal Calibrator Alignment TR-4
Garey - as I recall there was a way to trick the R-4 line into receiving WWVI just can't remember how it was done for the 10 MHz signal (or maybe I'm imagining things). There's a "Hints and Kinks" tip in the March 1971 QST that tells you how to do it for the 5 MHz signal. Have no idea if the same will work with the TR-4 (had mine so long ago I can hardly remember what it looked like!). Dino KL0S On 25Feb2010, at 12:42 PM, Garey Barrell wrote: > Not on a receiver that doesn't _cover_ 10 or 15 MHz.. > > 73, Garey - K4OAH > Glen Allen, VA > > Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line& TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs > ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] RF Signal Generator
James - great question! Think first you need to determine exactly what you'll use it for so you can set some parameters for what the generator will do and maybe more importantly how much it will cost. If you're simply looking for something to troubleshoot your Drake gear with you can probably get by pretty cheapif you're looking for that and other applications the following may be a start as you think about what to get. So you may want to ask yourself some of the following: How high does the generator have to go in frequency? (usually a good idea to at least double your first answer for the future!) How small/large does that signal have to be? How accurate does the output level need to be? Do I need small incremental changes (tenths of a .dB) or is the 10/20 dB switch sufficient? Do you need different modes of operation, i.e. AM, FM, I/Q, etc. In general there are probably five what I see to be different levels of generator available, with cost marking the major breakpoints. (1) For the lack of a better term, the "...couple hundred bucks" range. At the low end you'll find the typical Heathkit, Eico, B&K, Tenma models that generate almost up to 100 MHz and have sufficient harmonic output to work up into the 440 band (maybe). Great for general troubleshooting where accuracy and stability are not the driving factors. Probably have the ability to modulate the signal ala AM. (2) The "more than a couple of hundred bucks" range - now you're getting into either used HP generators, abundant over on ePay where it may be a real crapshoot but there are some gems to be had. If your bench is big enough the HP 8640B series is a good choice but they are VERY long in the toothhaving said that they're probably a mainstay of many ham workbenches. All depends on your comfort buying used test gear (and potentially your ability to troubleshoot and repair it). AM/FM modulation abounds. (3) The "small kilobuck range" - again mostly used equipment, higher frequency ranges up above 1 GHz and higher; more accuracy on output levels. Output attenuators tend to get fried and are then hard to repair/replace. Now you're starting into the boxes that you can tie to a cesium, rubidium, GPS standard (10 MHz for the most part) that will really ensure the output accuracy of your test signal. (4) The "major kilobuck range" - new instruments by Hameg and others. Ramsey used to have a nice model that would go almost up to 1296 MHz and was a good performer but now discontinuedused units may be around somewhere. (5) The "maxi kilobuck range" - new instruments by Rohde & Shwarz, Agilent, Textronix and used units. I've had good luck here by going direct to the manufacturer's sales department to see if they had any demo units availablethey can be had if you luck into one for significant discounts. Ok, enough ramblingam sure we'll get plenty of other advice here shortly. Hope this was more helpful than a hindrance to your effort! 'Course I may be all wet herewhat do you other guys think? 73 -- Dino KL0S On 9Feb2010, at 12:55 PM, James Bridgers wrote: > I would like to have a rf signal generator for my use. Any suggestions as > what to look for? > > Thanks in advance for your help ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-7 10m??
There was some info in the Jan 1981 QST and the 11th edition of Hints & Kinks that covered the 10-meter adaptation. I'm sending Max a copy separately. Having said that, it appears that there were a number of "flavors" of L7 built. The one I ended up with already had the added input circuit capacitors installed in the above mod but the bandswitch was "U.S. limited"I have absolutely no idea how you could install the two 68-pf SM caps yourself although I did correspond with a guy who said he'd done itthey have to go way down in the recesses of the box that holds the input coil circuitry. Then all I had to do was deal with the bandswitch issue which was an easy fix. Check the in the input loading coil/capacitor compartment accessed from the bottom of the linear. Count the number of capacitors in there; if they amount to the number shown on a schematic that includes 10m you're in like Flint; if not, get out your magnifying glass and LONG forceps and skinny soldering iron! Dino KL0S On 20Jan2010, at 8:09 AM, AirRadio wrote: > I have just got an L-7, the wavechange switch does go to 10m band but I am > not sure if it actually does 10m or not, is there an easy way to tell? I > think the 10m mod is the addition of two capacitors? > Also the case is damaged on the top which is irritating, any ideas on > refinishing, it looks like a plastic type finish which might be difficult. > Maybe someone has a spare top cover for sale ;-) > 73 Max ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2-NT to Heathkit VF-1 VFO
Gary - there are a couple of alternatives to consider. There was an addendum to the 2-NT manual that identified the Heathkit HG-10B and the Hallicrafters HA-5 as being suitable VFOs. I was lucky and found a nice Hallicrafters HA-5 VFO on eBay. I had a HG-10B but the problems with that VFO (and I imagine the VF-1) is that you'll have to provide it with power and modify it for grid-block keying; the HA-5 has it's own AC supply and is easily modified for grid-block keying. Once you have the VFO set up you can put together a connecting cable with RG-174 coax and sacrifice an old FT-243 crystal to create a plug-in for the front panel crystal jack. Here are instructions for converting the HG-10B for use with the 2-NT per Roy KF5YU: In order to connect the 2-NT to the HG-10B we need to supply the HG-10B with B+ and 6.3 VAC filament voltage. We must also connect the RF Out from the HG10B to the backside of the xtal holder and key the HG-10B from the VFO Key of the 2-NT. I accomplished this by building a cable using a 4-pin connector and plug similar to the one used on PC power supplies, in fact if you have an old PC power supply you can use the connector and wires to build the cable. I built my cable using the same color coding of the original Heathkit cable to avoid accidents and confusion. The cable will have a red wire going to +250v, white wire going to 6.3 VAC filament, green wire going to the backside of the xtal jack and a black wire going to ground. These wires will correspond to the octal plug wiring on the HG-10B. I then made another cable to connect the 2-NT/VFO Key to the HG-10B Key jack. I then modified the HG-10B by moving the green wire from terminal strip A to the center connection on the RF Out jack. I then plugged my CW key into the front jack of the 2-NT. There is a chart in the HG-10B manual that tells you what value of R11 is needed to drop the B+ voltage down to 108 VDC. My HG-10B already had a 10k/10w resister so I tried that first and it worked even though the manual said I needed a 6k/5w resister. The 2-NT theoretically produces 250 VDC but my meter measured 280 volts so R11 will require some experimentation. 4 Pin Accessory Jack 2-NT (xtal block) -> green wire -> HG-10B (RF Out Jack) 2-NT (250 VDC) -> red wire -> HG-10B (terminal strip A pin 6 to R11) 2-NT (6.3 VAC )- > white wire -> HG-10B 2-NT (gnd) -> black wire -> HG-10B (gnd) 2-NT VFO Key -> HG-10B Key Jack 2-NT Key Jack -> CW Key The key to everything working is to consult the schematics of both units and check the wiring. The procedure I just set forth worked for me but you never know the history of the units you're working on, their wiring could be different than the original. Good Luck Roy Vickers KF5YU - Another way to skin this cat is to build yourself up a digital VFO like the NORCAL FCC-1/2 combination: http://www.norcalqrp.org/fcc2mkii.htm (although temporarily out of stock) But you'll have to kludge together a buffer amp to raise the drive level sufficiently for use on the higher bands (it does work on 80m as is with mine); alternatively you may be able to simply use a transformer system to boost up the drive: From: "Bob Okas" Date: April 17, 2008 2:55:16 PM EDT To: "'Dino Papas'" Subject: RE: Using the FCC-1/2 with a Tube Type Transmitter Greetings Dino, The matching network is a simple L-network that matches the 50 Ohm output impedance of the FCC-2 to a higher impedance transmitter input. The inductor is in series with the FCC-2 output and the cap shunts the TX side of the network. The trick is determining what the 2-NT’s input impedance is. A good starting point is to guess around 1K. The network will offer roughly a 20x voltage step-up, which should be adequate to drive the TC on the higher bands. To determine what component values to use for the L-network, look at: http://bwrc.eecs.berkeley.edu/Research/RF/projects/60GHz/matching/ImpMatch.html Use a Q value of 7 and you should get some reasonable values. 73, Bob – W3CD Finally, if you're really into building from scratch you may want to consider starting with a PAL CB VFO unit which are readily available on eBay and creating a multiband VFO on your own. The box and tuning mechanism and capacitor would make a good base for such a unit (I have one over in the project queue myself). Hope some of this is useful. 73 -- Dino KL0S --- On 5Jan2010, at 9:25 AM, Gary Winkelman wrote: > I'm looking for a VFO for my "new to me" 2-NT. I've read where several older > VFOs will work with some modifications, mainly converting to grid block > keying. Has anyone had experience with the old Heathkit VF-1? I believe it > has to be modified for grid block keying but
Re: [Drakelist] C-Line PTO FSK Tab
Hi Gary and thanks for the quick reply. I guess what I don't understand is why the FSK tab was deleted from the late model C-line PTOs like I have. Oh well, just a thought for another project in the queue of hundreds! ;-) 73 -- Dino On 10Dec2009, at 3:59 PM, Garey Barrell wrote: Hi Dino - The FSK tab was present in all the 4 Series PTOs, with the exception of the TR-4CwRIT where that same tab was rewired to serve as the RIT port. The early 4 Series PTOs, with the Bipolar oscillator, had a very simple pair of capacitors that were connected across the oscillator voltage divider and the Buffer input. An external capacitor of ~ 259 pF was connected from the terminal through a diode switch to ground. When the diode was reverse biased, the PTO was "on frequency" and when the diode was forward biased the PTO was shifted ~850 Hz. Less capacity was required for 170 Hz shift when that was developed. The later 4 Series PTOs with the FET oscillator, required a second tap on the PTO linear inductor along with the capacitor across the Buffer input to effect the shift at the higher impedance of the FET oscillator. So to answer your question, I suspect it would be difficult (adding the tap to the coil, linearity effects?,) to modify the RIT and/or 7 Series PTOs for FSK. Effective with the TR-4CwRIT, the RTTY shift terminal was re-tasked to be the RIT terminal, and an internal varactor circuit was added to give the large shifts required for the RIT function. According to Bill Frost, there was some concern at the time about losing the FSK capability, but it was determined that by that time most everyone was using AFSK and the FSK function was no longer needed. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line& TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs Dino Papas wrote: When I first got my twins in 1979 I wanted to use FSKthe manual described the FSK tab on the PTO but it appears that in the very late models towards the end of the run Drake deleted the tab. Not a big deal I just ran AFSK for many years. With all the talk about the RIT tab on the TR7 PTOs I wonder if it would be possible to mod these late PTOs to add the FSK capability? This isn't a big deal either but I've always wondered and someday may put together my old RTTY TU and it would be nice to at least have the capability. Anyone ever done it??? Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] C-Line PTO FSK Tab
When I first got my twins in 1979 I wanted to use FSKthe manual described the FSK tab on the PTO but it appears that in the very late models towards the end of the run Drake deleted the tab. Not a big deal I just ran AFSK for many years. With all the talk about the RIT tab on the TR7 PTOs I wonder if it would be possible to mod these late PTOs to add the FSK capability? This isn't a big deal either but I've always wondered and someday may put together my old RTTY TU and it would be nice to at least have the capability. Anyone ever done it??? Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] C-Line QSK
Mike -- as I recall there was a project described in CQ magazine way back that provided for QSK in the C-line. I think it was fairly complicated but supposedly did a good job. Someone here on the list may have a copy. I'll search thru my files too if that's the kind of solution you're looking for. Dino KL0S On 2Dec2009, at 9:07 PM, Michael C. Marx wrote: Hi All, I am trying to get my C Line to work QSK CW and am running into trouble with the R4C's AGC. I have sped up the Fast release time but it's still too slow. If I mute the R4C during transmit and unmute during receive, I get a loud POP and THUMP in the audio everytime I release the key. It's much worse when operating on my frequency rather than running split. BTW, my R4C is FULLY Sherwoodized. I also have one that is not and basically in the AGC department, they operate the same. On the other hand, the R4B has WONDERFUL AGC for QSK operation. But, of course, lacks in the selectivity department. Does anyone have any ideas? 73, Mike WB0SND___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] adding pep reading to MN-2000
Dale - LNA Technology used to make boards for the W-4 and WH-7 (which works with the MN-2000). I put one of their boards in a W-4 and it works great. I have the other one but haven't gotten around to putting it in my MN-2000 here. I'm not sure if they actually still sell them but their web page appears to indicate they do: http://www.lnatechnology.com/lnatech_007.htm Dino KL0S On 3Nov2009, at 9:18 PM, y...@aol.com wrote: Would like to add pep reading to my MN-2000. I see several kits out there to be able to do this. Has anyone reworked the MN-2000 for pep ,any problems? If someone has done the conversion,please get back, no need for me to reinvent the wheel if its already been done. thanks dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] GREAT!!! Garey
Welcome back Gareyglad you're recovering. 73 -- Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Switch Repair Articles
The black power switch on the L-4B I bought new in 1979 started acting up recently with the same kind of symptoms others have experienced. As a temporary (very) fix I simply gave both switches a good shot (well, actually more than a good shot) of DeOxit Gold and cycled them both about 20 times. That brought the black side back to proper operation (that is after the liquid residue finally evaporated -- made for some "exciting" power on-off cylcles!) but they're ok now. Thanks Ron for the great set of instructionsI'm sure I'll be doing this same surgery someday soon. I do have one of the replacement switches Drake was selling toward the end to use as a parts mule; they unfortunately are NOT a direct replacement as they have a center-off position. Dino KL0S On 3Jul2009, at 1:45 PM, Jim Shorney wrote: On Thu, 2 Jul 2009 07:46:29 -0400, Ron Baker wrote: Here is the link to David Drake's (WD9CMD) great article on the Drake L4B Power Switch Refurbishing article. http://wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/L4B-SW/L4B-Switch01.htm Great stuff, Ron! Thanks for posting that. I've always assumed that those switches could be disassembled, but have not had reason to do it yet. The next step would probably be to try and find switch body parts and contactors that are close enough to be compatible replacements if the pitting is too bad. I didn't see any mention of re-lubing the sliders, but I think that Triflow bicycle grease might be a good candidate. This stuff is almost like magic, and I'm finding all sorts of uses for it in old radios. 73 -Jim ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] List Downtime
Still lurking here! Agree, probably the summer doldrums Dino KL0S On 14Jun2009, at 8:37 AM, Thom LaCosta wrote: At 07:32 AM 06/12/09, Thom LaCosta wrote: Apologies for the recent list downtime. An automated update to the server software did not restore the settings for the mailing lists. Is anyone here? Just wondering if I should continue the list, or simply remove it from the server? Thom ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake Forum at the 2009 Hamvention
And if you want to guarantee yourself a good seat you can attend the presentation just before the Drake forum starting at 0915 in Room 2 -- "Ham Radio Station Engineering Manuals" and join in a discussion about how to keep track of your station hardware and software interconnections -- don't reinvent the wheel, that's my motto! Sorry for the absolutely shameless promotion of my own forum! ;-) 73 -- Dino KL0S (proud Drake owner/user!) ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 2nt vfo
Nope, they sure didn't but wish they hadsome guys have used the Heath HG-10 with good success. I've used the NorCal FCC-1/2 DDS VFO on 80 and 40not enough juice for higher bands without some additional amplification but I haven't gotten around to that yet. Dino KL0S On 11Mar2009, at 7:27 PM, Carey Lockhart wrote: i am not sure where i got the idea from but did drake make a matching vfo for the 2nt transmitter? and if the did does anyone have a photo of one? Carey Lockhart, KC5GTT kc5...@gmail.com www.kc5gtt.com___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] VFO for 2NT
Bill -- there is an addendum page for the 2NT manual that gives you the frequency ranges and drive levels required; I'm sending that to you direct as I'm not sure it'll make it thru the mail list. I've used the Norcal FCC-1/2 DDS VFO/counter to drive the 2NT. The DDS board puts out enough to drive the rig on 80/40m since the rig only requires about 1V RMS of drive (3.5 Mhz and 7 MHz respectively); for 20m and above it takes 4/12/4V RMS respectively at 7 MHz. Although I have yet to try it here's a suggestion from W3CD that I got a while back on how to step up the drive from the VFO to perhaps meet the higher drive requirements: From: "Bob Okas" Date: April 17, 2008 2:55:16 PM EDT To: "'Dino Papas'" Subject: RE: Using the FCC-1/2 with a Tube Type Transmitter Greetings Dino, The matching network is a simple L-network that matches the 50 Ohm output impedance of the FCC-2 to a higher impedance transmitter input. The inductor is in series with the FCC-2 output and the cap shunts the TX side of the network. The trick is determining what the 2-NT’s input impedance is. A good starting point is to guess around 1K. The network will offer roughly a 20x voltage step-up, which should be adequate to drive the TC on the higher bands. To determine what component values to use for the L-network, look at: http://bwrc.eecs.berkeley.edu/Research/RF/projects/60GHz/matching/ ImpMatch.html Use a Q value of 7 and you should get some reasonable values. 73, Bob – W3CD Hope this helps. 73 -- Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] L-4b on 17m & warc bands
I've used my successfully on 12/17m as follows: 17m - Bandswitch in 15m position 12m - Bandswitch in 10m position The Plate and Load controls will depend on your match but my setup puts those two controls in the vicinity: 17m - Plate: bottom end of the 10m arc; Load: about #1 12m - Plate: bottom end of the 10m arc; Load: about #3 YMMV but that should get you in the ballpark. Use a dummy load to find your "sweet spots." No warranty specified or implied, you're on you own! Dino KL0S ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] MS-8 Speaker- $260!
These things are getting down right ridiculous! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&rd=1&item=150281713863&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=005 For anyone who wants a non-OEM replacement for the MS-8 consider the Palstar SP-30 speaker at $70: http://www.palstar.com/sp30.php They look exactly the same except for the name and the speaker vent holes are oriented 90 degrees apart from the MS-8. My MS-8 and SP-30 sound identical to me Sheesh! Dino KL0S/4 ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[drakelist] Vintage "Unused" R-4B on eBay
I'd really hate to see what a "used" example of this would be! http://cgi.ebay.com/RL-Drake-vintage-R-4-B-RECEIVER-unused-w- manual_W0QQitemZ260262834870QQihZ016QQcategoryZ50596QQssPageNameZWDVWQQr dZ1QQcmdZViewItem Dino KL0S/4 <>
Re: [drakelist] Tubes for 2C, 2CQ,2NT
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Bill - K5SVC sells a set for the 2C on eBay. Search for seller K5SVC and check out his eBay store. Got my 2C tube set from him. 73 -- Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] R4 headset impedance ?
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- There's a pretty good set of phones (cheap too!) that are made for things like language labs. Check out the "Califone" 600 ohm mono phones at: www.califone.com The model #2924AVP are the ones that I got to use with my R4C. Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Drake Manual source?
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Two seconds on Google: http://www.wb4hfn.com/ http://www.dproducts.be/DRAKE_MUSEUM/ Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] RF Parts
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Ditto for my experience with RF parts! Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] L7 Capacitors Needed
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Thanks Garey for the thoughts.we have a source for those caps from another L7 parts unit and will do a little surgery to replace the bad cap. I tend to agree with you as this L7 is a MARS piece of equipment and was used quite extensively outside the ham bands. Frankly, I like my L-4B much better (but I do have a L7 in the closet as a spare!)the L7 will do 160m but all in all I think the L-4B is much more solid in its construction. Thanks again! 73 -- Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] L7 Capacitors Needed
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- A friend's L7 gave up the ghost mid-QSO with the self destruction of one of the two disc ceramic 760pF caps that bypass the HV line at the cold end of RFC5. They're rated at 4KVanyone know of a good source for replacements? Also obviously gotta discover what made one of the two fail. RF Parts has some 0.0005 uf 10KV disks that may work in this application. BTW, his L7PS is fine as tested with his L-4B after the L7 failure. Thanks much in advance! 73 -- Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] need help with c-line
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Dale -- page 2-2 in the manual: 2-10. PTO Lamp. This jack provides a ground return for the pilot lamp behind the PTO dial. The R-4C is shipped with a shorted phono plug in this jack so that the lamp will light. When the R-4C is used with the T-4XC transmitter, remove the shorted phono plug and connect a cable between the PTO lamp jacks of the two units. The lamp will then light only with the T-4XC TRANSCEIVE switch is in the RCVR, SEPARATE, or SOPT positions. In the XMTR position, the lamp will not light to indicate that the R-4C PTO is disabled. Same goes for the MUTE jackif used alone you need a shorted phono jack there as well to operate; connect to T-4XC as required. Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Drake 2-NT to Heath HG-10B VFO Interface
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Has anyone done this interface along the lines recommended by Roy Vickers KF5YU described at: http://www.zerobeat.net/drakelist/2nt-hg10.html Roy changes the VFO signal routing by connecting the VFO RF output from the phono jack on the rear panel thru the interface cable he built that plugs into the octal socket which eventually ends up at the 2-NT crystal socket. What I'm wondering about is the fact that doing so routes the RF along a single wire vs. a coax cable as originally configured. At least it didn't look like he did that with coax. It may very well be that it's no problem but just thought I'd check before surgery. My gut feeling is to at least do it with a piece of RG-174 to keep that signal as clean as possible. Love these "retro projects" that take us back to our childhood ham radio days! Thanks in advance! Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Vox relay kits for AC-4
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Sure would be nice if someone would just measure that aluminum plate and pass it around (drawing would be perfect!)it would be a cinch to fabricate it and make the changeover for those who need to. Dino KL0S/4 (lucky enough to have those two-pin connectors) -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] parts
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- The original screws that hold the AC-4 in the back of the MS-4 (or RV-4 series remote VFOs) do in fact have a hemispherical rubber "top" to them with the screw protruding from the centerthe rubber "handled" simply allows you to insert and tighten the screw without a screwdriver. Less the rubber top a simple screw accomplishes the same function. Dino KL0S/4 (still using those original four "rubber" screws to hold the AC-4 inside my MS-4!) -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] That e-bay shark....
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- I'll vouch for Ron WB4HFN as a great seller! Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Calibration 9 MHZ TR4-C
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Or you may want to make up a couple of "sniffer loops" that are a little more permanenton a piece of RG-58 (or whatever small 50 ohm coax you have lying around) put a BNC connector on one end and solder a a two turn loop of 22 Ga. solid insulated wire (diameter ~ 1/2") at the other end to the center conductor and coax shieldcouple of pieces of shrink-wrap makes it a nice neat installation. A single turn with ~ 1/4" diameter is good for VHF and up. These things work great with my service monitor and spectrum analyzer and eliminate the need for any direct connection if the signals floating around the circuit are strong enough to be detected. Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] keyer with T-4XB
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Frank -- you may be interested in the interface at: http://home.att.net/~jacksonharbor/keyall.htm GL -- Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Mic for the TR-4C
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Jason -- the diagram on the bottom of my 454C seems to indicate that when in the "Elect" position that one side of the PTT wiring is connected to the ground of the mic element; the "Relay" position looks like a completely separate switching arrangement that isolates the switching action from the mic element. Mine has been in the "Elect" position and working correctly for 37 years so it must right! ;-) Boy do I feel old now that I did that math. :-( Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Mic for the TR-4C
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Turner 454C also works wellbeen using mine with my Drakes (TR-4 then C-line) since 1969 GL -- Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] TR7 cold start problem
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Just saw a replacement LED board for the TR7 on eBay in case your DR7 is kaput: http://cgi.ebay.com/W2ENY-Replacement-Display-kit-for-Drake-TR-7- TR-7A-R-7_W0QQitemZ5862996358QQcategoryZ4674QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
[drakelist] Test
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Sorry for the test Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] Audio static
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- George - although there can be many reasons for that crackle one that has plagued me from time to time turns out to be an easy fixsometimes the phono plug on the back of the receiver gets a little corrosion in the female part and/or on the male pin. Usually a little dab of DeOxit clears it up nicely. Your mileage may vary but worth giving it a try. Those ceramic (?) phono plugs on the back of the R-4c seem to break down after a while. I changed out the whole strip of them once many years ago to cure some intermittent problems I was having. GL -- Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] R-4C power supply problems
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Probably one of the best mods you can make for the R-4C is to replace the power supply board with an after market unit. It is absolutely amazing the difference you'll find in the heat generated in the receiver. I wouldn't hesitate with this onethe other mod that seemed to make the most apparent difference was the audio stage. GL -- Dino KL0S/4 -- Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: www.zerobeat.net - sponsored by www.tlchost.net --
Re: [drakelist] W-4 Wattmeter Modification
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Try: http://www.lnatechnology.com/ GL - Dino KL0S/4 -- On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] R-4C filters
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterance to the drakelist gang -- Mike -- I've done them all and the most noticeable improvements I noticed years ago when I did them were the power supply and audio amp fixes, most especially the power supply getting rid a tremendous amount of what was wasted heat. The audio amp fix quiets the rig down quite a bit from the stock version as well. Dino KL0S/4 -- On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] W-4
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Try LNA Technology: http://www.lnatechnology.com/ GL -- Dino KL0S/4 -- On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] Meters' lamps in L4-b ...
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- The L-4B uses the GE-1850 lamp or equivalentI had to special order mine thru a local distributor. I don't think the #47 is a direct replacement. Dino KL0S/4 -- On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] C-Line Service Info
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- I received a CD-ROM from Garey K4OAH today that is a great compilation of all the various info available on our beloved Drake twinsGarey has put a lot of hard work into producing a "service manual" with parts listings and VERY well done photos of the two boxes pointing out all part locations. Highly recommended for those who delve into their radios as necessaryone of the better deals I've gotten lately for just $25. If you're interested contact Garey at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks Gareywell done! Dino KL0S/4 ------ On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] L-7 10m Mod Help -- Thanks...
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- To all those who responded yesterday to my query about the L-7 10m mod, especially about the input circuit...thanks. For those others who may be in a similar situation here are the things I found out: (1) Your L-7 may or may not have the two additional 68pF silver mica caps installed in the input circuitry. The original mod was described by Jeem Newland WB8RXI in the Jan '81 QST Hints & Kinks and repeated in the collected Hints & Kinks 11th edition. In his note Jeem tells us that for the non-export model you'll need to add two 68pF DM19/20 silver mica caps (that translates to a voltage rating requirement of 1000V), one across the input wafer of the switch controlling the input coil assembly and one cap from the bottom of the 15m coil to ground. I'm here to tell you that I can't see how anyone could actually add those caps, although one gent who sent me a note said he was able to do it with "...curved hemostats and a lot of bad words." On a whim as I was comparing what was in the input coil "box" and the schematic I noticed that it looked like those additional caps were already installed (you'll see them on the schematic in dotted lines and marked "Export Models Only". To double check my theory I counted the number of caps that should be in a domestic rig, that's 8, and what you would have in a export model, which is 10. Well, I've got ten caps in there and the two "extras" are hooked up in the correct positions -- thank goodness. I suspect Drake did that in anticipation of authorized mods by hams, but it sounds like they didn't do it in all the amps. BTW, if you need these caps the only place I've found that carries them in the 1KV rating is RF Partsinto the stock pile they go since I didn't end up needing them. (2) The remaining mods are easydepending on your model you may have to either attack the bandswitch or simply remove a small metal bandstop that precludes the switch from moving to the "10m" position. As for the low pass filter, Drake made it easy for you and only requires that you move two coax center conductor leads to alternate pads on the filter PC board. Alternatively you can remove the filter and just replace it with a single piece of RG-58; I chose to just go with moving the leads. The amp works just fine on 10m now...I also solved an arcing problem I had on 40m when I discovered one of the leads on the plate coil (it's made from braid) was actually touching the coil about half way along its length. How it got moved there I couldn't tell you but was nice to find such an easy fix just by moving it away from the coil. So the L-7 is now my backup amptruth be told I like my L-4B much better as it's MUCH easier to work on and is frankly built better I think (and was MUCH easier to mod for 10m back in 1979 when I bought it new). The only remaining problem I have with the L-7 is that it doesn't want to tune very well on 160m (that's into a dummy load)anyone have a similar problem? 73 to all -- Dino KL0S/4 -- On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] L-7 10m Conversion
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Ok Drake gurus -- I'm ready to complete the mod of my recently acquired L-7 but need some help with the input circuit mod piece. I've bypassed the input low-pass filter and removed the bandswitch stop. From WB8RXI's QST mod from many moons ago what I need to do now is add two 68pF silver micas to the input, one across the input wafer and one from the bottom of the 15m coil to ground. Here's the problem -- for anyone who has looked into the box that contains the input coils there just ain't no way to get to that part of the bandswitch/coil as it's all at the bottom of the box and from what I can determine pretty much inaccessible. The mod article makes it sound so easy so maybe I can't see the forest for the trees...Now here's the weird partif you count the number of silver micas that should be in the domestic post-10m ban version there are 8 caps. When I count up the number of caps in the "box" I count a total of 10 and it appears to me (tough to see down there) that there is already a cap (conveniently with its printed side down and unreadable) attached to the wafer at the point the bottom end of the 15m coil is connected. Could it be that those 10m caps are ALREADY in there? Guess I could just fire it up again now and see if it works on 10m but I'm still troubleshooting an arcing problem on 40m. Another issue -- the bandswitch is pretty sloppy once you've clicked it over between positions -- is there anything that can be tightened to reduce that sloppiness or is that just a sign of the bandswitch wearing out (it's not the knob)? Thanks in advance guys Dino KL0S/4 ------ On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] TX4C Power Output problems
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Larry -- I had a similar problem. Couple of thoughts...try Ron's note regarding this topic at: http://www.wb4hfn.com/DrakeArticles/Erratic_Power_Out.htm I tried that fix myself and it didn't solve the problem. The problem was finally successfully troubleshooted by John Kriner who after two trips to his shop finally discovered that the balanced modulator (T-14) diodes may have had a connection point that was a little long and had been intermittently shorting against the can when hot. This problem showed up 22 years into the life of my T-4XC at the time in 2001. Anyway, that corrected my problem with the same symptoms. GL -- Dino KL0S/4 -- On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] L-7 "Green Foil Capacitor" Mod
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Thanks to Danny WA4SDE for sending me the mod to replace the choke bypass cap in the L7 high voltage feed circuit. The mod specifies what looks to be a 50pF 7.5KV doorknob cap in place of the foil unit. I've got an extra 500pF 10KV doorknob from an old L-4B project and wonder if that's too much capacitance in this application. The L-4B does not have a similar bypass to the middle of the choke. Perhaps someone can explain the reason for the new circuitry when they designed the L-7. Dino KL0S/4 -- On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:drakelist@www.zerobeat.net Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] L7 Power Supply smells, sort of
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Neil -- I have both the L-4PS (that I've had since 1979) and L-7PS (that I just acquired and plugged in for the first time yesterday) and have noticed exactly the same thing. I'd be interested in what that odor is tooit's funny how it only happens periodically. What say you oh great Drake gurus??? Dino KL0S/4 ------ On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
[drakelist] Source for Silver Mica Caps (L7 10m Mod)
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Anybody have a good source for the 68pf silver micas that you need to add to the input circuitry to complete the 10m mod? SM's are getting hard to find, especially the DM19/20 size. The value seems to be plentiful at the 500V level (DM15) but I think the higher capacity is needed. I've done the input low pass filter bypass already (just shifted the coax input leads on the PCB as detailed in WB8RXI's mod article) -- is that sufficient or should I bite the bullet and dig in and just replace that coax run (doesn't look like a lot fo fun though...). Thanks in advance! Dino KL0S/4 ------ On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
Re: [drakelist] Interesting? Not Really! Antenna wax???? I want some
Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> made an utterence to the drakelist gang -- Reminds me of things new soldiers were asked to retrieve: "Go to the commo shop and bring us back a can of squelch." "Go to the arms room and get a blank adapter for the 81mm mortar." "Go to the training room and get a box of map grid squares." "Run down to the motor pool and bring back a bucket of live steam." Ahhh, the good old days. Dino KLØS/4 ------ On Behalf of Dino Papas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Submissions:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - unsubscribe drakelist in body Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] - help in body of message Zerobeat Web Page: http://www.zerobeat.net Brought to you courtesy of TLCHost.net http://www.tlchost.net/ --
