[Drakelist] On...or off?
Back in the day... I borrowed an idea from the color-TV "instant on" feature... soldered a reverse-biased diode across the ON/OFF switch, so that only the negative-going pulses entered the power xfmr - it would light the filaments half-brilliance, but no B+ was generated. the radios would be "instant on" with very little drift after initial power-up. NEVER had a problem. Tom - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Cooling Fans
In the "for what it's worth" department - I used to hold a muffin fan ATOP my SB-220 and SB-200, with a pair of toothpicks. It made NO permanent holes, held the fan where it did some good, AND I had it "sucking out", as opposed to "blowing in". Any physics or fluid-mechanics guy will tell you that when you compress a fluid (like air), it heats up (albiet, in this case - very slightly), a negative pressure [sic] tends to lower the temp - whatever works for you, but my fans PULL - they don't PUSH. Tom - W0EAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Spun Aluminum inserts
Theres always an advert in ELECTRIC RADIO magazine catering to SPUN ALUMINUM KNOB INSERTS. He makes 'em for SWAN, Drake, et.al. Tom - EAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 38, Issue 18
the Hallicrafters DDR-1 was specifically designed to do JUST THIS. In Uncle's Navy, we used two types - frequency diversity (different propagation characteristics) and "space" diversity - 2 different antennae (sometimes, with different receivers AND at different locations), If ya got the real estate, it works splendidly. Tom ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Tuning
While not as easy to do with DRAKE stuff, I used to run SWAN stuff (still have a 350 & 500C I listen to), and the best method for preserving those sweep-tube finals was to UNBALANCE the Carrier Balance control, thereby injecting a very small amount of carrier - peak the grid - dip the plates, then REZERO the carrier-balance. Worked swell, and the 500C that I got in 1972 still had the ORIGINAL finals in 1982, when I replaced the rig... and yes - they were still good after many, many hours of use. [ the SWANS required balanced tubes - they REALLY did - and they weren't cheap ] Tom - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] HP-606B & HP-608E
This was on our local swaplist - the "E" model of 608 has a separate counter output For sale-- HP 608E RF generator, 10 to 480 MHz, $150 or best offer; HP 606B RF generator, 50 kHz to 65 MHz, $125 or best offer; Both generators in very good to excellent condition, checked out and working properly on all bands, with AM modulation capability (internal and external), internal crystal calibrators, AC line cords, RF outputs continuously adjustable from +20 dBm to -110 dBm, modulation meter on the 606B sticks at the bottom end of its scale rather than returning completely to zero, no other problems found, both items can be evaluated using other HP test equipment prior to purchase, no manuals, local pickup only, pictures on the 285 TechConnect Radio Club website at na0tc.org, both items recently donated to the club, all proceeds to support club activities. Bill N0CU 303-679-0117___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 36, Issue 26
Steve brought up a radio that's quite overlooked, but was the ORIGINAL transceiver for hams - the Gonset G-76. It was pretty (still is), and worked darned well. I've always lusted for one, so someday when I see one at a 'fest - I'll grab it. A pity that it didn't include SSB, as it would have been REAL competition for everybody else. Tom - W0EAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 36, Issue 25
Aside from the Ford spark-coil, hooked up to a long wire, and using the SW band of a Phico "Fiver" to make that first one (got in REAL trouble with everybody except the FCC), I'm right there with Eddy. My first rig was a really ugly 5Y3 with a 6AG7 "final" sitting atop an honest-to-goodness bread pan, and a Heathkit AR-3. The beauty of such broad-banded radios AND crystal control, was that you couldn't help but learn how to HUNT for the guy calling you - while he was HUNTING for YOU. Later came a Heath AT-1 & an old NC-100 - first "real" rig was a Central Electronics 20A, with the converted ARC-5 VFO, a 600L linear (they should have called it the 600 LB )and a 1941 Super Pro, the combination of which, nearly filled the kitchen of my apartment - who cooked, then? Me, I wanted a basement full of RACKS - all HB, and all wrinkle-black, with meters and tons of knobs, looking like a WW-II battleship. 1971 brought the SWAN 500C, and a world of really HOT DX. Tom - W0EAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Smoky Radios
Back when I was the Chief Tech for a division of the old B-A, I had some studio video gear come in which had suffered through the same event - smoke exposure. The only thing I could find to cut it was 99% Isopropyl Alcohol. Of course, we have some really good cleaning products NOW, so you might not need to go that far. I also discovered that the chemistry of the smoke (and some heat) had rendered the wiring + insulation quite brittle, and ultimately the units all failed. Be careful, moving the wiring. Tom ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L4 tuner
Why would you need a tuner for the L4? The Pi Network output is ALREADY an L network, designed to match about 30 to 100 ohms, isn't it? ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] My plates are shorted, and I can't tune up
Hearing the plates shorting is your first clue - another way to find the points at which they DO short, is with an ohmmeter (analog is best). Aluminum plates of caps, in some climates, develop something akin to "tin pest" in that metal. Aluminum oxides begin to "grow" on the plates; they can and will short out. Old fashioned contact-burnishers (for relays) work swell for getting rid of them, but in severe cases, you'll have to use sandpaper. Remember, the oxide IS kind a semi-conductor, so be sure to get all the remains OUT. Tom - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Let's beat it to death
Okay guys, let's not keep kicking this AC-4R horse. He agreed to let me write up some different instructions, and we'll both distill them down. It's a DAMNED GOOD PRODUCT, and nicely made. Like the man said "ya gotta use your head a bit". TC ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 58
Mike, I clearly did NOT over-react to YOUR messages, as you did to mine. I merely attempted to discern where things went, as the descriptions were not clear (at least, to me.. and apparently to others as well). I sent you an off-reflector Email, referencing my offer. If you don't want the assistance, well okay... but with such a NICE product, that's obviously WELL MADE and WELL THOUGHT OUT, I'd think you'd want to sell more of 'em? Just an offer - Tom ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] AC-4R kit
If you're using HIS kit, one HUGE caveat. His instructions are not very good, and he's really not in the mood to appreciate feedback, so here ya go: Follow his instructions for REMOVAL of all of the components to be replaced + remove ALL old caps (you don't need 'em - who cares what it looks like under the METAL SHIELD?...duh NOW - install the spacers and "fit" the board - leave ALL fasteners loose. Take the board back out. Now skip steps - lengthen all SECONDARY windings of the transformer (except for the filament - they've not been disconnected). RECONNECT all secondary windings to their pad points on the board. At this point most of the confusion is ended. You need only to connect the bias wires (he said they're white - he sent brown wire... no biggie), and the REMAINING wires from the output cable... small orange, small yellow, etc. After it's all hooked up, and you've checked your wiring - bring it up slowly on a Variac so IF you've messed up, you won't fry anything. Once you're happy, tighten up all the hardware, and put the case on. Tom D. - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Those Dishpan hands.. er radios
Dishwashers work swell on carbureators, but not so pretty good on radios. Tom - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Test n' Fix
THE most valuable piece of test gear on MY bench is my trusty Variac. I run mine through an isolation xfmr, and use the heck out of it. Mounted it in a nice box with ACV and ACA meters (EICO made one like this), "standard spacing" banana jack outputs, AND a single 117vac outlet. I also have a plug-in bridge rectifier (again, using the standard-spacing banana plug & jack config) with a big cap I can parallel on the output, that provides up to about 145vdc @ 4a of HV if I need another source. Simply put - if your amps go up faster than your volts as you're bringing it up from ZERO, it's time to begin looking HARDER. Number two is an ANALOG type VTVM - you can't beat a swinging needle for peaking circuits quickly. Number three is my old Kenwood TS-430S (used as a receiver) - great for finding out if that oscillator really IS working. - quicker than a counter which comes later. Soldering iron AND a soldering GUN - yep... old receivers used solder-to-the-chassis grounds a lot, and they're pretty tough to get hot with a soldering station. My old HP-606A (great signal generator) was analog of course, so I made a minibox with a .1 cap in series with the gozinta and the gozouta - with a pickup loop for a counter - it's easy to zero up that way. Like the earlier poster said "Just Do It" Tom ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 31, Issue 45
Speaking of the AC-4 - Anybody used one of the "upgrade" boards on a NON STANDARD AC-4? Story I get is that there are different versions of them, and the "inventor" refuses to supply adequate information on the various versions - I got the thing in, but it was no Heathkit - rather an "invent it as you go" sort of thing. Tom - Denver ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Solder Suckers
I too, recommend the "SoldaPullit". I still have an original from 1975, when I was the Chief Tech for the old Burstein-Applebee, and later Denver SvcMgr. Be sure to buy extra tips, as even though they last quite a while - when you finally decided to replace it, you MAY NOT have one, otherwise. I also have one of the El Cheapo RatShack suckers that's an iron with a sucker head, "powered" by a bulb you push with your thumb, then release to pull the solder. It's terrific for PC boards, but pretty marginal for Drakes, Swans, etc... Tom - WØEAJ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
