[Elecraft] Soldering stations

2004-11-16 Thread Robert Cochrane
Support Don's advice - I have also been pleased with the "Solomon" 
soldering station.  Built my K2 3314 with the UK badged digital version, 
the SL-30 from Vann Draper, which reads in Celsius over here.  Understand 
it is just the same inside as the led version.  Has a neat set/read switch 
and is properly earthed; has a good range of bits, too.


73 Rob M0RAC

Robert A Cochrane
7 Lawn Terrace
Blackheath
London SE3 9LJ   UK

Tel (44) 020 8297 1978
Mob (44) 07764 197 701


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[Elecraft] OT: Demagnetize Soldering Tip?

2004-11-16 Thread Martin
Hello elecrafters,

recently I worked on my hifi-speakers, I had to replace the
bass-speaker. I somehow must have magnetized the soldering tip,
it will not stop heating. In fact, it becomes glowing red!
What can I do to demagnetize it? Do I have to replace the tip?

It is a Weller WTCP-S, it has a magnetic tip to control
heat.



-- 
Best regards,
 Martin
K2 #2706  mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Demagnetize Soldering Tip?

2004-11-16 Thread G3VVT
Hi Martin,
 
The Weller TCP soldering iron uses a magnetically operated switch in the  
centre of the soldering iron. The soldering iron tip has a cap on the inner 
edge  
of specific magnetic attraction properties that is neutralised by what I  
believe is called the "Curie point effect" when this cap reaches a critical  
temperature. This releases the switch actuator and cutting off the 24V feed  to 
the soldering iron heater.
 
You may have to replace the TCP switch assembly, though it would  seem that a 
permanently magnetised tip may be the cause. Try another  soldering iron tip 
first as the actuator switch assembly is rather more  difficult to replace. If 
the tip is the cause it may be possible to demagnetise  it with a TV picture 
tube degaussing wand.
 
A message to all to keep the TCP iron away from speaker magnets,  
particularly the Hi-Fi kind.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] Soldering stations.

2004-11-16 Thread Bob Nielsen
Ron, I think you responded to the wrong message (about the KX1). :^)

Weller also has soldering stations with an adjustable temperature
control.  I have used the WTCP type with fixed-temperature tips but
prefer the adjustable model WES50 which I used to build my K2.  This
model has been replaced by the WES51, which is probably a bit more
expensive than the Hakko 936, also a very fine product.

Xytronics has a similar station, which is probably a bit less expensive.

Bob, N7XY

On Mon, Nov 15, 2004 at 07:17:47PM -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I have a Hakko 936 that I really like. I like it better than the Wellers
> because I can adjust the temperature by a simple twist of the knob. Comes up
> from cold to 700F in about 20 seconds, and has plenty of heat to avoid
> temperature "droop" when doing a lot of joints.
> 
> I bought one a couple of years ago and the first tip is still as clean as
> the day I put it on. I got mine from Tequipment.net. I see they currently
> sell there in the $80 range. That's cheap for the quality of the iron, in my
> experience (http://tinyurl.com/56r3n) 
> 
> Not connected with Tequipment myself, of course, except happy to have done
> business with them.
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> I am looking for a built KX1 with tuner. Are there any out there looking for
> a new home??
> 
> Tim VE6SH
> 
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RE: [Elecraft] Temp controlled solder station

2004-11-16 Thread G. Beat
Bob -

Under $ 100 is very easy to achieve with either new, refurbished or used 
soldering stations.  It is a good time of year to shop for a station, since 
many mfg. and dealers offer year-end / holiday specials.

For new stations, the Weller WES51 or WTCPT and Hakko 936-12 (ESD version) 
models have been quite popular with Elecraft builders.  These models sell for 
under $ 100 at Fry's Electronics, Wassco, Contact East and a number of other 
dealers or distributors.

IF you find a used Weller TCP series soldering station (WTCP, WTCPL, WTCPN, 
WTCPS, WTCPT, etc), I do repair and/or refurbish these at parts costs for 
Elecraft kit builders.  Used units of the TCP series are available for $ 50 or 
less every week on eBay. 

Greg
w9gb


> Can anyone recommend a good temp controlled soldering station? 
> Preferably under $100 :-)
> Thanks, 
> Bob Johnson/W4MKO
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[Elecraft] soldering iron story

2004-11-16 Thread Steve Jackson
Plane is to pilot as soldering iron is to electronics
hobbyist.  You can get a nice controlled-temperature
soldering station at Sears, these days.  Weller
WLC-100 I think.  Handy.

I've had my Weller WTCPL since 1979 and would buy a
new one, if I had to.  But I don't have to, ha!  This
one still works perfectly!  I have co-workers who
aren't as old as my soldering iron.  And to have the
thermal mass on demand that only a Curie-effect
thermostat can provide, is worth it to me.  If I
bought something else, I'd be wary that tips and other
parts might eventually become inaccessible.  The value
is remembered long after the price is forgotten.



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[Elecraft] KIO2 outside of K2

2004-11-16 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi all,
I noticed that the KIO2 option uses a standard conversion chip like the
Maxim 232, but does not use optoisolators.  I guess the optoislators would
not help when the KIO2 is inside the radio close to the other circuits.  I
also noted that the KIO2 can generate noise. Has anyone ever considered
using the KIO2 with optoisolators added outside of the K2 chassis?  My
limited experience with my homebrew interface for a Kenwood CAT says that it
would be much easier to eliminate the interference, and since the cable to
the computer is outside the radio, the RS232 interface being outside the
radio would not be much of an inconvienience.  Just a thought.

Steve, W2MY

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[Elecraft] Alignment and Test, Part II

2004-11-16 Thread HB9DUT

Hello,

just completed my K2 to the Alinment and Test Part II.
Here i have some problems...
With the VCO test I always measure 8v at R30.
The voltmeter reading does not change at all i tune L30 or the VFO.
Thus I have thought T5 am wrongly wound. But no change after rewound it...

The Troubleshooting in the manual was not a big help.
I measured there the following voltages:

Reference Oscillator Output, Pin 1 of U4:   1.1V
VCO Output, Pin3 of U3:   0.4Vpp with an DC offset of  4v
VCO Buffer output, Pin6 of U3:   0.8Vpp with an DC offset of  4v
R30 left side:   always 8V

Can someone help me?

73 Peter - HB9DUT

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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 outside of K2

2004-11-16 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm

Steve,

If the cable to the computer is built as specified in the KIO2 (or KPA100) 
instruction manual, noise pickup is minimized - the frame ground (pin 1) is 
connected only at the K2 end, and any noise on the computer frame ground is 
not conducted onto the cable.  I would expect any improvement gained by 
using optoisolators to be minimal - perhaps someone should try it and see.


Optoisolators are useful as a solution for ground loops in situations where 
they are likely to occur - such as instances when the connecting cable 
parameters are not known or specified.  One advantage to optoisolators is 
that separation of the signal ground in addition to frame ground is 
possible, but proper care must be exercised in the design to assure that 
this isolation is still present after the circuit is packaged (frame ground 
can be inadvertently made continuous even with the use of optoisolators by 
conduction through a metallic enclosure).


There is little advantage to be gained by separating the signal ground for 
RS-232 level signals unless the cable run is very long (more than 50 feet or 
so) and ground reference level shift creates a problem with the switching 
levels at the receiver.


For my $0.02 worth, I would not predict any improvement.

73,
Don W3FPR


- Original Message - 


Hi all,
I noticed that the KIO2 option uses a standard conversion chip like the
Maxim 232, but does not use optoisolators.  I guess the optoislators would
not help when the KIO2 is inside the radio close to the other circuits.  I
also noted that the KIO2 can generate noise. Has anyone ever considered
using the KIO2 with optoisolators added outside of the K2 chassis?  My
limited experience with my homebrew interface for a Kenwood CAT says that 
it

would be much easier to eliminate the interference, and since the cable to
the computer is outside the radio, the RS232 interface being outside the
radio would not be much of an inconvienience.  Just a thought.




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Re: [Elecraft] Alignment and Test, Part II

2004-11-16 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm

Peter,

A probable cause is a soldering problem on the thermistor board.  Examine it 
VERY closely, and if nesessary, remove it and re-do all the soldering. 
Remember that this little board does not have thru plated holes, so 
soldering on this board is more critical that for the rest of the K2.


Also check all other components in the PLL reference oscillator area for 
proper values and proper soldering.  Look at the schematic to identify the 
components (RF Board sheet 1 of 4, upper left corner).


73,
Don W3FPR

- Original Message - 


just completed my K2 to the Alinment and Test Part II.
Here i have some problems...
With the VCO test I always measure 8v at R30.
The voltmeter reading does not change at all i tune L30 or the VFO.
Thus I have thought T5 am wrongly wound. But no change after rewound it...

The Troubleshooting in the manual was not a big help.
I measured there the following voltages:

Reference Oscillator Output, Pin 1 of U4:   1.1V
VCO Output, Pin3 of U3:   0.4Vpp with an DC offset of  4v
VCO Buffer output, Pin6 of U3:   0.8Vpp with an DC offset of  4v
R30 left side:   always 8V




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[Elecraft] Trouble with KDSP2, need help -> solved

2004-11-16 Thread Marcus Busch [DL1EKC]
Hi All,

the problem was solved:

A defective 2N3904 (Q3 on KDSP2 board) was showing a huge leakage current 
and this way was loading down the AUXBUS. Just didn't believe this plain 
old bipolar could be the reason.

Witch a new 2N3904 AUXBUS stays at 5.6 V.

Thanks for help.

VY 73 de Marcus, DL1EKC

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RE: [Elecraft] Soldering stations.

2004-11-16 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Yep, just saw that myself, Bob!

That's my motto: "Ready, FIRE!, Aim..."

I consider a quick and easy method of changing temperatures essential in a
soldering station.  

I used to have trouble with the "blob" method of removing enamel and a few
other simple chores such as using desoldering braid that I could do easily
in the field with an uncontrolled temperature iron. The problem is that a
700F iron is too cool for many things like that. With the Hakko, I crank up
the temp to 800F and within a couple of seconds those chores become simple.
While I normally use a solder puller, sometimes braid is easier. The iron
needs to heat up the braid enough for good flow, and do it quickly before
the board or connector gets overheated, all the while heat is being lost up
the braid. Braid is copper - a GREAT heat sink! Using a hotter iron prevents
that problem by putting the right amount of heat on the joint through the
braid.

And blob-stripping enamel from wire is equally simple and fast with enough
heat.

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Ron, I think you responded to the wrong message (about the KX1). :^)

Weller also has soldering stations with an adjustable temperature control.
I have used the WTCP type with fixed-temperature tips but prefer the
adjustable model WES50 which I used to build my K2.  This model has been
replaced by the WES51, which is probably a bit more expensive than the Hakko
936, also a very fine product.

Xytronics has a similar station, which is probably a bit less expensive.

Bob, N7XY

On Mon, Nov 15, 2004 at 07:17:47PM -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I have a Hakko 936 that I really like. I like it better than the
> Wellers because I can adjust the temperature by a simple twist of the 
> knob. Comes up from cold to 700F in about 20 seconds, and has plenty 
> of heat to avoid temperature "droop" when doing a lot of joints.
> 
> I bought one a couple of years ago and the first tip is still as clean
> as the day I put it on. I got mine from Tequipment.net. I see they 
> currently sell there in the $80 range. That's cheap for the quality of 
> the iron, in my experience (http://tinyurl.com/56r3n)
> 
> Not connected with Tequipment myself, of course, except happy to have
> done business with them.
> 
> Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] soldering iron story

2004-11-16 Thread G3VVT
The Weller TCP soldering iron must be the best thing since sliced  bread. Got 
mine in 1971 or 1972. Has a black hard bakelite cased PU1D 24V  PSU with a 
Bulgin miniature 3 pin power connector on the side for  the TCP-1 soldering 
iron 
which also uses bakelite for the handle. This version  may be UK specific, 
not sure.
 
Still works fine after all these years, though could do with the 3 core  
silicon rubber soldering iron cord being replaced. Not seen these listed by  UK 
Weller spares sources of late. Have also inherited a later TCP soldering iron  
with the thermoplastic cased PS2D PSU from my late father in law, G3UUA. The 
new  thermoplastic though it may look smart does not hold up to abuse like the 
old  hard bakelite did unless dropped. Not sure if the term bakelite is used in 
the  USA, but a similar material was used for panel meters, tube bases and  a 
multitude of other uses throughout the world.
 
Picked up the matching desoldering attachment that replaces the TCP element  
tube at a junk sale. The rubber bulb has now finally perished with age.
 
Anybody know of a source of replacements for these rubber bulbs?
 
Checks with dealers at later junk sales have drawn a blank apart  from 
thoughts they may have been used by the military in the UK.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re:[elecraft]K2 sn 4421

2004-11-16 Thread Bryan
Gary,

Found the problem.  My solid 6A psu was current limiting at 2.5A !

73  Bryan G3AKF
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Modifications

2004-11-16 Thread Sverre Holm

Did you get a reply to your question? 

In case you did not, there were some noise blanker mods for pulse widths a
long time ago. They can also be found on the K2 Mods list, see
http://www.qslnet.de/la3za/K2/mod.html under General mods and KNB2.

73

Sverre
LA3ZA
http://www.qsl.net/la3za/
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph McClintock
Sent: 9. november 2004 11:56
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Modifications

Hello,
 Does anyone have any ideas about level and pulse width modifications for
the K2 Noise Blanker. My problem is neighbors electric fences and corrals.
They were built with aluminum, copper and steel wire intermixed and have
over 300 twisted connections. I have replaced the old solenoid type pulser
with a solid state unit. The pulsing is not even touched by the KNB2 in any
configuration eventhough they are about 40db over 9. I can tell the NB2/LWR
position is working but does not do anywhere near what is required. On
160-40 my primary bands of interest it's really bad. 
Tnx & 73's,
Ralph   W1ZK Vermont
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Re: [Elecraft] Internal AAA batteries for KX1?

2004-11-16 Thread Eric Ward
I have a rechargeable lithium CR-V3 battery for my digital camera-it is 3V
nominal, and the same size as 2 AAs smushed together side-by-side.  The 3+3
cell arrangement in the KX1 precludes using these, but I wonder if someone
is going to come out with a rechargeable lithium AA-or do they already
exist?

Eric

N0HHS 

KX1 #670

I saw a posting yesterday on QRP-L where someone saw AAA Lithium batteries
for sale so I went to the Energizer.com site and sure enough it looks like
Eveready is now manufacturing a 1250 mah AAA Lithium cell.

This got me to thinking about how great it would be if Elecraft offered
an alternative bottom cover for the KX1 that had 2 X 4 AAA holders giving
12+ V instead of 10V with the 2 X 3 AAs.

 

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[Elecraft] KPA100 & EC2

2004-11-16 Thread Michael Harris
G'day,

Ooops, I failed to notice the ventilation along the edge of the KPA100 
heatsink, so no problem after all.

Now trying a little experiment with a small PC PSU type 12V dc fan propped 
up at one edge about 40 degrees by a wire version of the tilt stand and 
blowing on/along the heatsink front to back on the PA's side.  At 30 watts 
output QRSS10 the heatsink is just warm to the touch.  Also, the fan is 
pretty quiet, in fact the noisy little bugger on the back of the KPA100 
hasn't even switched on so I guess I will have to select "Fan LO/HI" to 
stir the air in the EC2.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO


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Re: [Elecraft] Low voltage on AGC threshold

2004-11-16 Thread Mike, W8ENG
This is an update to my earlier post.  I touched up a solder joint and
reassembled the radio.  The voltage on pin 5 of U2 was still 3.78 volts,
with the RF gain set fully clockwise.  The input voltage from my power
supply was 12.4 volts, both on my DMM and on the K2's internal voltmeter.
The voltage out on the 8v regulator was 7.8,a nd on the 5v regulator was
4.9.

I'm thinking that the problem may be low voltage all around.  I don't have a
better power supply to check with at a higher voltage.

Any addational help or comments would be appreciated.

73,  Mike, W8ENG
- Original Message -
From: "Mike, W8ENG" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2004 8:23 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Low voltage on AGC threshold


> Don,  Thanks for the fast reply.
>
> I did have the FR gain fully CW during the test.  Anyway, I just checked
> (for the third time) the solder joints on the control board. Pin 4 on RP6
> may have had a cold joint.  I touched it up, and will re-assemble and
> recheck the votltage.
>
> 73
>
> Mike, W8EMG
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mike, W8ENG" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
> Sent: Monday, November 15, 2004 7:34 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Low voltage on AGC threshold
>
>
> > Mike,
> >
> > Since your adjustment range is on the 'edge of the cliff', it would be a
> > good idea to identify what is causing it before it bites you later on.
> > Check all the components for proper values and check solder connections
> very
> > carefully to determine why you are running out of adjustment range.
Look
> at
> > the schematic to determine which components are connected to the AGC
> > threshold pot circuits and check them all with a careful eye, then check
> > again and when you have finished, check it once more - these things are
> > difficult to spot even with careful inspection (I know, I've been there,
> > done that many many times).
> >
> > 3.78 volts may be fine for the AGC Threshold adjustment - I often
> (usually)
> > find that the proper AGC threshold is between 3.6 and 3.8 volts.
> >
> > Just as an afterthought - you do have the RF gain control full clockwise
> do
> > you not?  It will alter the reading on the AGC threshold measurement
> point.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > - Original Message -
> >
> > When setting the AGC threshold I was not able to get 3.8 volts on pin 5
of
> > U2 as described in the manual.   The voltage varied from 2.60 to 3.78
when
> > adjusting R1 to the extreme settings.  Is this close enough or should I
> have
> > more room for adjustment?
> >
> > I have a faily good DMM, and it compares very closely to the K2 internal
> > meter, and when checking values on 1% tolerance resisters.  All other
> checks
> > to date have been fine.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Noise Blanker Modifications

2004-11-16 Thread G3VVT
Hi Sverre,
 
The link to VE3MCF for the mod to increase KNB2 time  constant does not seem 
to work anymore. Any other source of the mod  details for suggested values for 
C11/C12?
 
Regards,
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] Low voltage on AGC threshold

2004-11-16 Thread John R. Lonigro

Mike:

How accurate is your DMM?  The 8v and 5v regulators should still produce 
8 and 5 volts even with a slightly low supply voltage.  Also, if the 
K2's internal voltmeter reads the same as your DMM, that tells me your 
DMM is reading low because there is a diode in the K2 power line which 
will make the K2 internal voltmeter read LESS than an accurate external 
DMM.  Only if the external DMM reads low would the two voltmeters agree.


Try to check your voltages with a different DMM.  My guess is your 
problem is NOT low voltage all around.  Good luck.


73's

John AA0VE

Mike, W8ENG wrote:


This is an update to my earlier post.  I touched up a solder joint and
reassembled the radio.  The voltage on pin 5 of U2 was still 3.78 volts,
with the RF gain set fully clockwise.  The input voltage from my power
supply was 12.4 volts, both on my DMM and on the K2's internal voltmeter.
The voltage out on the 8v regulator was 7.8,a nd on the 5v regulator was
4.9.

I'm thinking that the problem may be low voltage all around.  I don't have a
better power supply to check with at a higher voltage.

Any addational help or comments would be appreciated.

73,  Mike, W8ENG
 


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[Elecraft] ARCBS 2004 Jingle Bell Romp Award!

2004-11-16 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,
 
The ARCBS is proud to announce its Jingle Bell Romp Award for the 2004
Holiday Season.
If you're interested, go to
http://www.arcbs.org/files/ARCBSadministration/ARCBSawardsFile/JingleBel
lRomp2004.html
 
72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ
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[Elecraft] ARCBS Jingle Bell Romp Award

2004-11-16 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,
 
Sorry, but the link ended up on two lines on some emails. here it is
again.
 
The ARCBS is proud to announce its Jingle Bell Romp Award for the 2004
Holiday Season.
If you're interested, go to:
 
http://www.arcbs.org/files/ARCBSadministration/ARCBSawardsFile/JingleBel
lRomp2004.html
 
72/73,
Ed, WA3WSJ
 
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[Elecraft] HI Current

2004-11-16 Thread David N.
Hello All,
Well I finally got it all together and working Sorta.
I have Hi current on 160M and with the requested power
set at 5.0W
I only get .3 out. The Hi Cur is on for about 2
seconds and then goes 
to show you the power out. On 80 I have the same thing
but power is 
normal. I tried setting the Cal Cur to 2.8 with no
avail but the power ou 
on 160 goes to 1.2W.
I went through the archives and found 1 entry for the
160 and the Hi 
Current and tried Resoldering the c31-33 with no avail
I have gone 
through and re soldered  all the solder joints around
the 80m band pass 
filter section so what am I overlooking
Thanks
David KR4OW
 



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Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! 
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[Elecraft] Elecraft PC Board Scans - Today's Additions

2004-11-16 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Folks:

For anyone who might be interested I have added the scanned images of the 
following additional Elecraft kit PC boards to my web site:


  K2 PLL Temp Comp Rev A
  XV Transverter Front Panel
  XV Transverter RF Board
  KX1 ATU Rev B
  KX1 RF Board Rev B
  KXB30 Rev B1
  KXPD1 Rev B
  KNB2 Rev E
  XG1 Rev B
  K2 RF Probe
  K60XV Rev B
  N-Gen Rev B
  KRC2 Rev B
  KRC2 Rev C

Of course, these are in addition to the many other scans already in place 
on my web site.


To view these or any of the other available scans, go to:

   www.n0ss.net

and click on the Quik Link to "Scans Of Elecraft Kit PC Boards".

I hope you will find these scans to be of assistance sometime in the future.

Of course, if you find broken links to a listed scan, please let me know as 
soon as possible.


73,

Tom HammondN0SS

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[Elecraft] micro 908 kit for sale or trade

2004-11-16 Thread k6xr
For Sale or trade for elecraft kat100 auto tuner:

Micro908 analyzer kit consists of the following:
Full kit micro908
basic kit micro908
hc908 daughter card
dds daughter card
dds-chip analog devices ad9850brs
micro908 enclosure
kk7p dspx card
micro908 mini keyboard

All parts, smt devices are professionally installed by Kit Builders.
There remains the mechanical assembly and adjustments.

Shipped conus priority mail  for $290.00. Paypal, USPS Money order, 
Personal Check (which must clear) or trade for kat-100 tuner

Reginald K6xr


Reggie 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft PC Board Scans - Today's Additions

2004-11-16 Thread David Toepfer
in case some were wondering, it appears that the links for the kxpd1 came out
wrong (thought I am sure Tom will fix them):

CORRECTIONS:
kxpd1_rev-b_bot.jpg -> http://n0ss.net/kx1_scans/kxpd1_rev_b_bot.jpg
kxpd1_rev-b_top.jpg -> http://n0ss.net/kx1_scans/kxpd1_rev_b_top.jpg

dt
.

--- Tom Hammond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Folks:
> 
> For anyone who might be interested I have added the scanned images of the 
> following additional Elecraft kit PC boards to my web site:
> 
>K2 PLL Temp Comp Rev A
>XV Transverter Front Panel
>XV Transverter RF Board
>KX1 ATU Rev B
>KX1 RF Board Rev B
>KXB30 Rev B1
>KXPD1 Rev B
>KNB2 Rev E
>XG1 Rev B
>K2 RF Probe
>K60XV Rev B
>N-Gen Rev B
>KRC2 Rev B
>KRC2 Rev C
> 
> Of course, these are in addition to the many other scans already in place 
> on my web site.
> 
> To view these or any of the other available scans, go to:
> 
> www.n0ss.net
> 
> and click on the Quik Link to "Scans Of Elecraft Kit PC Boards".
> 
> I hope you will find these scans to be of assistance sometime in the future.
> 
> Of course, if you find broken links to a listed scan, please let me know as 
> soon as possible.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Tom HammondN0SS
> 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft PC Board Scans - Today's Additions

2004-11-16 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi David:

Well, son of a gun... can't IMAGINE I'd make a mistake... heheheh!

If that's the ONLY one, I'll be tickled pink.

Many thanks for catching that one. Which, buy the way, has now been fixed!!

Appreciated.

73,

Tom   N0SS

At 11:21 PM 11/16/04, you wrote:

in case some were wondering, it appears that the links for the kxpd1 came out
wrong (thought I am sure Tom will fix them):

CORRECTIONS:
kxpd1_rev-b_bot.jpg -> http://n0ss.net/kx1_scans/kxpd1_rev_b_bot.jpg
kxpd1_rev-b_top.jpg -> http://n0ss.net/kx1_scans/kxpd1_rev_b_top.jpg

dt
.

--- Tom Hammond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Folks:
>
> For anyone who might be interested I have added the scanned images of the
> following additional Elecraft kit PC boards to my web site:
>
>K2 PLL Temp Comp Rev A
>XV Transverter Front Panel
>XV Transverter RF Board
>KX1 ATU Rev B
>KX1 RF Board Rev B
>KXB30 Rev B1
>KXPD1 Rev B
>KNB2 Rev E
>XG1 Rev B
>K2 RF Probe
>K60XV Rev B
>N-Gen Rev B
>KRC2 Rev B
>KRC2 Rev C
>
> Of course, these are in addition to the many other scans already in place
> on my web site.
>
> To view these or any of the other available scans, go to:
>
> www.n0ss.net
>
> and click on the Quik Link to "Scans Of Elecraft Kit PC Boards".
>
> I hope you will find these scans to be of assistance sometime in the 
future.

>
> Of course, if you find broken links to a listed scan, please let me 
know as

> soon as possible.
>
> 73,
>
> Tom HammondN0SS
>
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> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>


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