[Elecraft] FS: Schurr Profi-2 CW Paddle
Lots of cw operators here, so. Excellent condition, very nice paddle, read the eHam reviews. I am used to a wider spacing on the paddles and am too old to change. :) Will sell for $195 plus shipping. Thanks Tim NZ8J ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Trade Wilderness Sierra for Elecraft KX1
I have for trade a Wilderness Sierra in excellent condition with the following options: KC2 digital readout/power meter/memory keyer/S-meter Buzznot noise blanker All 9 band modules 160/80/40/30/20/17/15/12/10 meters The 40/20/15/10 meter modules are built, the others are unbuilt as they came from Wilderness Radio The 40 meter and 20 meter modules put out 2+ watts, the 10 and 15 meter modules need to be troubleshot and aligned. It also has the ABX xtal bandwidth filter control on the front panel. I have all the manuals for it. I just bought this to use when I go motorcycle mobile, but would found that it would be easier to have a smaller more compact setup with the tuner, power supply, etc in the same box, so I would like to trade this package for a Elecraft KX1 with the auto tuner and 30 meter module. Please email for more info if needed. Thanks Tim Nz8J ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: K2/100
I have for sale a K2/100 (serial number 4486) it has the following options: SSB NB 160 meters DSP filter module MH2 mic Yaesu main tuning knob 60 meter module (still in kit form, needs to be assembled) KAT100 auto tuner all manuals, cables, etc It is in very good condition, (has two very small marks on the heatsink fins, was like that when I bought it) Also the side screws on each side of the top that screw into the PA unit need to be replaced with the Elecraft recommended replacement screws (see below) as the stock ones tend to not be long enough and will not hold after they have been removed a couple of times. Output is 100+ watts on all bands, receiver is excellent, especially with the DSP audio filter. The KAT 100 is built in the "slim" case and is also in excellent physical and electrical condition. Reason for selling, I found I would rather have a physically larger rig for use in the shack. I have another K2 (#315) for portable operation. New price for the kits not including the MH2 mic (or shipping) is $1672.00 $1325.00 ground shipping/insurance in the lower 48 included. Please email for more info if needed Thanks Tim NZ8J SDSCRKT 5-40 Taptite Side Screws - KPA100 (qty 2 per pkg) Replaces heatsink 4-40 side screws ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Just ordered my second K2
Well I just placed my order for my 2nd K2. I sold my 1st one several years ago. I'm looking forward to building my second K2! 73 Jim W7RY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 PLL trouble
I have reached the "Alignment and Test, Part II" for the RF board. This is where the PLL & BFO alignment takes place. The PLL reference Oscillator alignment went very well with 12,1098.18 kHz measured and a 12.81 kHz range. The VCO test at TP1 however resulted in no frequency reading with either internal or external frequency counter. The DC voltage measured at the left edge of R30 never changes when I adjust L30 or the VFO freq (8.015 VDC). I measured the voltage at all the VCO varactors and only D16 & D17 show change, the other varactors (D21-D26) are all locked in at 8.015 VDC. D16 & D17 voltages actually just jump at certain VFO points... The 12-bit DAC does the same thing at it's output (as expected) I wouldn't say that they actually track the VFO display. adjustment of L30 does not have any affect on anything. Detailed voltage readings in the PLL circuit: U4 voltage readings MC145170 (U4) === pin 1 = 2.1788 VDC pin 2 = 2.2925 VDC pin 3 = 0.0041 VDC pin 4 = 2.4677 VDC pin 5 = 4.9861 VDC pin 6 = 4.9861 VDC pin 7 = 4.9861 VDC ?? pin 8 = 0.1087 VDC pin 9 = 0.0007 VDC pin 10 = 0.0007 VDC pin 11 = 0.0002 VDC pin 12 = 0. VDC pin 13 = 0.0012 VDC ?? pin 14 = 4.8343 VDC pin 14 = 4.8343 VDC pin 16 = 4.8343 VDC U5 voltage readings LTC1451 (U5) === pin 1 = 4.9887 VDC ?? pin 2 = 0.0011 VDC ?? pin 3 = 4.9887 VDC pin 4 = 4.8512 VDC pin 5 = 0. VDC pin 6 = 2.0470 VDC pin 7 = 4.0874 VDC pin 8 = 4.8512 VDC U6 voltage readings LMC662 (U6) === pin 1 = 7.685 VDC pin 2 = 4.0875 VDC pin 3 = 4.0873 VDC pin 4 = 0. VDC pin 5 = 4.0554 VDC pin 6 = 0.0011 VDC ?? pin 7 = 8.015 VDC pin 8 = 8.025 VDC The BFO test is also a wee bit out of range. The upper freq is 4917.81 (OK) The lower freq is 4915.04 (HI) I am thinking that there is probably some central theme that is afoot causing all this difficulty. I will find it soon enough..But maybe someone has some insight to speed things along.. Any ideas? Ken Lotts aa7jc ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?]
John Young wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Comrades,
I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon.
{snip}
John
I am sure everyone will have an opinion and they will all be
different. So here goes mine along with some background.
In the early 70's I had and instrutograph (sp) that used paper tape
to send code at any speed you set the motor drive to. Much like the
computer generated code practice today.
I made an offer to make code tapes for anyone that sent me a
cassette. A high school student call and I became an Elmer via
telephone. After several months of learning the code from the tapes I
met him in person and gave him the novice code test which he passed
with a perfect copy. I was not required to test his sending but I had
a CPO and key with me and had him try sending for his very first time.
What he sent sounded like it was machine sent. It was the only
code he had ever heard. He passed his novice, upgraded and kept his
first call for over 30 years. He also started with QRP and has stayed
with it.
My point is don't buy any key until you know the code and can copy
with out effort at over 10 wpm. Only then buy the paddles and keyer.
There are far too many people who think the know the code who should
be forced to copy their own sending.
That young man was WB6JBM who was a founder of the Flying Pigs QRP
Club.
73
John
WA8KNE
I can not imagine any better advice! I wish I would have had John for
an Elmer 48 years ago!
73 HankK8DD
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Net Report for May 8-9th, 2005
Kevin, I think I heard you around 9:10 PM local time here on 40m. Band conditions were very strange indeed. I had a QSO with a "local" station about a 1 hour drive north of here who was 599 while he was running 100W and he gave me 579 with my 5W. He was amazed with my signal. Suddenly he was barely copiable. Sorry, Kevin, that I didn't even attempt to give you a call when I heard you on 40m. It would have been too painful on both of us! BTW, I think my K2 is about as done as it is going to get. Last weekend I added the DSP filter. This weekend I added the KAT2 but still need to upgrade the firmware from v1.03 to v1.07 (it is on order and I should have it installed by next weekend). Now about all that is left is to solve an RF problem (I think it is coming in on the PTT line) and learn how to better use the DSP filters and just have fun. Next weekend, especially on Saturday, I'll be spending about 10 hours (or more I hope) in the MidAtlantic QSO Party. That will be my second contest with the K2 and a warm-up for Field Day! 72 and hope to work you again next week. Kevin Rock wrote: Good evening folks, 20 meters was almost like cotton batting in my ears but I worked across the continent. Ray, as always had a great signal. But who should start the net but my old (not really so old) friend Carter. Reminds me, I owe him a note ;) His signal from PA was running hot. But then he had his linear cranked up to 100 watts so the ionosphere did not stand a chance! Thanks for the contact Carter! Worked mostly Northeastern folks except on guy just over the mountain from me running CW mobile. Maybe someday I'll be that skilled. Next came dinner. Sam (the cat) and I ate alone this evening since Ms P is attending a long conference up in Seattle. She drove off this morning with visions of publishing contracts in her head. Hope she finds them! After Sam and I ate our left overs I read some embedded electronics articles and wrote a little code. Then came 40 meters. I QRLed ? and got down to business. I thought I heard someone in there and finally dug out Ric, VE3XL. Turns out he was my only contact on 40. His normally great signal was very weak as it had been on 20 meters. But I was not skunked. I kept up my calling until about 15 after the hour and hung up my paddles. I have had worse nights but not recently. Mr. Hammond had been waylaid. First by stormy weather and then by his kith and kin. Made him cook ribs I hear! Did not even invite me :( I would have driven the 2500 miles or so. But maybe I will work him from my hotel room in La Crosse later this week. Enough dithering, on to the lists. On 14050 kHz at 2300z: N3AO - Carter - PA - K2 - 678 K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 W1EUY - Dave - MA - K2 - 744 N9IV - Russ - IN - K? - I am not sure, was it the KX1? KM7B/M - Marian - WA - non Elecraft rig. On 7045 kHz at 0200z: VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 Hmmm... something just percolated through the molasses of my brain: it is Mother's Day isn't it? That may explain the paucity of check ins. I have not seen my dear departed mother in 27 years so you must forgive me if I forget these things. But I am sure next week will bring better propagation, more check ins, and maybe something good will come out of my trip to Wisconsin. Hope springs eternal. As always any errors, fills, or corrections to the above list are gladly remedied and annotated. Thank you all for your support. Only a few weeks until the second anniversary net! 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Net Report for May 8-9th, 2005
Good evening folks, 20 meters was almost like cotton batting in my ears but I worked across the continent. Ray, as always had a great signal. But who should start the net but my old (not really so old) friend Carter. Reminds me, I owe him a note ;) His signal from PA was running hot. But then he had his linear cranked up to 100 watts so the ionosphere did not stand a chance! Thanks for the contact Carter! Worked mostly Northeastern folks except on guy just over the mountain from me running CW mobile. Maybe someday I'll be that skilled. Next came dinner. Sam (the cat) and I ate alone this evening since Ms P is attending a long conference up in Seattle. She drove off this morning with visions of publishing contracts in her head. Hope she finds them! After Sam and I ate our left overs I read some embedded electronics articles and wrote a little code. Then came 40 meters. I QRLed ? and got down to business. I thought I heard someone in there and finally dug out Ric, VE3XL. Turns out he was my only contact on 40. His normally great signal was very weak as it had been on 20 meters. But I was not skunked. I kept up my calling until about 15 after the hour and hung up my paddles. I have had worse nights but not recently. Mr. Hammond had been waylaid. First by stormy weather and then by his kith and kin. Made him cook ribs I hear! Did not even invite me :( I would have driven the 2500 miles or so. But maybe I will work him from my hotel room in La Crosse later this week. Enough dithering, on to the lists. On 14050 kHz at 2300z: N3AO - Carter - PA - K2 - 678 K2HYD - Ray - VA - KX1 - 608 VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 AB9V - Mike - IN - K2 - 3993 W1EUY - Dave - MA - K2 - 744 N9IV - Russ - IN - K? - I am not sure, was it the KX1? KM7B/M - Marian - WA - non Elecraft rig. On 7045 kHz at 0200z: VE3XL - Ric - ON - K1 - 968 Hmmm... something just percolated through the molasses of my brain: it is Mother's Day isn't it? That may explain the paucity of check ins. I have not seen my dear departed mother in 27 years so you must forgive me if I forget these things. But I am sure next week will bring better propagation, more check ins, and maybe something good will come out of my trip to Wisconsin. Hope springs eternal. As always any errors, fills, or corrections to the above list are gladly remedied and annotated. Thank you all for your support. Only a few weeks until the second anniversary net! 73, Kevin. KD5ONS (Net Control Operator 5th Class) -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.6 - Release Date: 5/6/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Protecting the KX1 from short - fuse on the internal batteries?
Hi, I'm a bit paranoid about frying the KX1 due to a short to ground one of these days, with the radio rattling about in my bike paniers! I was wondering therefore if anyone has found an inline fuse small enough to install on the positive battery lead from the internal battery holders to the PCB? That way if I get a short the internal batteries won't just dump a large current through the short!! Thanks, Martin. VA3SIE. ___ How much free photo storage do you get? Store your holiday snaps for FREE with Yahoo! Photos http://uk.photos.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] QTH net Hiccoughs!!!
Yep. Just got a string of 7 or 8 from last week. I'll probably see this one next weekend. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 2:36 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] QTH net Hiccoughs!!! Just in case others are seeing this behavior... I'm getting long lists of replies from QTH.NET that says that my message to the reflector was rejected, but in fact the message was delivered and appeared, in some cases more than a week ago! Aaargh! So if anyone else notices this behavior, you're not alone! Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] power to remote KPA100/KAT100 question
Hi folks - I am in the process of building a remote KPA100/KAT100 in an EC2 enclosure. The KAt100 is done and I am starting the amp. I have read Lyle and Bob's excellent descriptions of the connections between the K2 and the remote unit but in either case I believe (maybe I missed it) the KPA100 has a separate power cord from the K2. I would like to have one power cord with a "Y" connection to the KPA100 - and have the KAT100 get it's power internally in the EC2 from the KPA/100. I would like to be able to have all three modules (the K2, the KPA100, and KAT100) turn on via the front on/off switch on the K2. Is there any reason I should NOT do it this way or a preferred "power on" sequence? Thanks folks. 73/Tim NZ7C ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KAT2 Problem
Good Evening men/ladies, I recently completed K2, #4799. Everything worked without any big problems. I completed all of the alignment and was really very satisfied. I thought I'd go ahead with the KAT2 and then finish the other options a little later. I got it built and installed and was almost to the end of the Power Calibration section, when things went south. I had DL1 connected to ANT1 and was doing the math and watching the LCD . It was reading just a few tenths volt different. I decided to check the WM-2 while I was at it before going off to bed. I connected the DL1 to the WM-2 and then it to the back ot the top cover. I placed the rig into TUNE and saw nothing on the WM-2 or LCD. Hockey! I had inadvertently connected the WM-2 to ANT2. The total time the rig was in TUNE while I wiggled and jiggled cables was probably 10-15 seconds. I lost output on the tuner. I went back to the rig's ANT out and checked for output. I still have it there. I checked all voltages and they are right on (bottom page 22 , KAT2 manual). I checked D1-2 out of circuit and they're ok. I touched up T1 connections. I used the RF probe and detected very little with P6 connected. There really isn't that much on the board to check, but it sure ain't working! I knew better than to keep playing when I had the thing licked ! Anybody got any ideas? I'll continue to plug away and pull ends of the few resistors before calling it a night. Thanks, John, KD5EJA, K1 #679, KX-1 #479, K2 #4799 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] QTH net Hiccoughs!!!
Received five of the idiotic self important pomposities this evening Ron, first time though. 73, Geoff. GM4ESD - Original Message - From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 10:35 PM Subject: [Elecraft] QTH net Hiccoughs!!! > Just in case others are seeing this behavior... > > I'm getting long lists of replies from QTH.NET that says that my message to > the reflector was rejected, but in fact the message was delivered and > appeared, in some cases more than a week ago! > > Aaargh! So if anyone else notices this behavior, you're not alone! > > Ron AC7AC > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: RJ45 Older Rigblaste Mystery Solvedr
Thanks Mike and others that answered my direct e-mail queries, Well, the problem with connecting the RJ45 Rigblaster to the K-2 has been solved, and I had several PSK and RTTY contacts to HP8 and VY5 today using the Rigblaster. After I changed the Rigblaster jumpers for the Kenwood mike family, I traced schematics of the Rigblaster and K2 front panel (i.e., mike coneector) and convinced myself that the setup had to work. I then compared the wire colors at the modular jack of the original Rigblaster supplied RJ45 cable with the one that I grabbed out of the junk box. The wire colors of the RJ 45 junk box cable were exactly opposite of the Rigblaster cable. I was actually grounding the PTT and mike AF signal at the K2 mike connector. I quickly changed the wires at pins 1,2,7, and 8 of the K-2 mike connector, and I was on the air. "Cockpit error" strikes again!! S/N4751 is now on the air on CW, SSB, PKK and RTTY. SSTV is next. 73 and tnx agn, Les WA3SGZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RJ45 Older Rigblaste Mystery Solvedr
Thanks Mike and others that answered my direct e-mail queries, Well, the problem with connecting the RJ45 Rigblaster to the K-2 has been solved, and I had several PSK and RTTY contacts to HP8 and VY5 today using the Rigblaster. After I changed the Rigblaster jumpers for the Kenwood mike family, I traced schematics of the Rigblaster and K2 front panel (i.e., mike coneector) and convinced myself that the setup had to work. I then compared the wire colors at the modular jack of the original Rigblaster supplied RJ45 cable with the one that I grabbed out of the junk box. The wire colors of the RJ 45 junk box cable were exactly opposite of the Rigblaster cable. I was actually grounding the PTT and mike AF signal at the K2 mike connector. I quickly changed the wires at pins 1,2,7, and 8 of the K-2 mike connector, and I was on the air. "Cockpit error" strikes again!! S/N4751 is now on the air on CW, SSB, PKK and RTTY. SSTV is next. 73 and tnx agn, Les WA3SGZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Comrades, I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon. I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler. 1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. Once again, we see the wisdom of lifepartnering with someone with compatible interests (not to mention separate finances). Mine (NG3P) wanted in so bad after we went on a picnic with K2 #1641 yesterday that she's now building the KSB2. If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set? While I'm still working on getting my own speed up, I suspect that the keyer vs. straight key argument is a bit of a red herring. The important/central/difficult thing is building receive skills, and once you have that rhythm down I can't see the keying method making much difference...except that a keyer might make it possible for someone to try to send much faster than he's able to send well. Or recieve, for that matter. Those who hew to the "no pain no gain" school of thought will insist you start with a straight key because it will improve your character. But if the thought of "starting out wrong" worries you, and having both a straight key and paddles is an issue, get paddles, set the menu INP HAND and send straight key with one paddle. I hope your CFOs anti-redundancy policy doesn't apply to other parts of your ship's gear. Life jackets, oars, rudders, etc. :-) 73 de Maggie K3XS -- -/___. _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress / /(, /| /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/ ---/ / | / | _ _ _` _ AOPA 925383/ amid change and to / --/ ) / |/ |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_ K3XS / preserve change amid/ -/ (_/ '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/ /(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] F.S. K2 QRP (revised description)
{{Re-sending this as mailman.qth.net said there was mail loop
for elecraft@mailman.qth.net !!! }}
I have just realized I had left out the KSB2 option the last
time I posted this - doh!. So I'm re-listing it.
SN 03597, non-smoking shack, fully operational with the latest firmware
and updates excluding the CW keying mod.
Options installed are;
KSB2, KNB2, KAF2, KAT2, KIO2, KBT2, K160RX and the XV60
including the new rear heatsink panel.
It also includes the Heil_MH2 hand microphone.
It has the rubber ring from a Yaesu FT-100 tuning knob
installed on the basic Elecraft Tuning knob -- makes a big
difference -- but it's easy to remove. I do have a 'spinner'
adaptor but I've not fitted it.
Asking $1000 or make me a reasonable offer. Shipped, double
boxed, CONUS only, via FEDEX or UPS.
If interested, please reply "off list" and put "elecraft" in
the subject line so my spam detector wont block it !!
dmg .at. bossig .dot. com or at kk7ss .at. arrl .dot. net
73 de
Dave, KK7SS
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[Elecraft] KX1 Audio Mods es Bad Vol Pot
My KX1 [nr 422] developed an open in the volumn control pot. Replacement was pretty easy to do. I flush cut the old pot from the PC board and then used solder wick and some sharpened wooden toothpicks to remove the remaining material. My question is: Are there any modifications out there in KX1 land to make the audio output louder? Another 3 dB would suit me fine. I am using the recommended 110 db/mw ear phones [Sony MDR-A35] which did make a big difference from the old 100 dB/mw RS phones. The radio is alligned per the instructions.. and is sensitive and selective... but when I crank in the XTAL filter, I'd like more audio level. On my radio... the vol control is mostly cranked up all the way. Any advice is appreciated. TU de Rich KR7W KX1 NR422. Oh yah... I recently had my hearing checked... and it is above normal in one ear, a little low in the other, so I am OK in that department. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
Admittedly, I have an $80 Straight Key and some $80 paddles, but the SK needn't be fancy to go from zip to 10 WPM. You should be able to find something (my first one was $4.95 at Radio Shack, but that was a few years ago - Currently, it's a chrome-plated Bencher straight key). Can you save the $80 from MFJ and get CWGET (Free)? It requires a computer or laptop, but will read what you send if it's any good at all. That should free up the bucks for the paddles after you get your feet wet making the elements with the J38. A quick Google "straight key price" shows lots under $20. Dan -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 3:56 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles? Comrades, I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon. I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler. 1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output. I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ. If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set? I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it. comments? regards, John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] QTH net Hiccoughs!!!
Just in case others are seeing this behavior... I'm getting long lists of replies from QTH.NET that says that my message to the reflector was rejected, but in fact the message was delivered and appeared, in some cases more than a week ago! Aaargh! So if anyone else notices this behavior, you're not alone! Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
A straight key is versatile, but you ask a great question. You are learning two different motions. I learned on a straight key in 1951 because almost everyone used a straight key then. Also, one had to take a sending test in front of an FCC examiner in the local FCC office. "Keyers" were new technology, filled with tubes, in the hands of only a few operators. Bugs, mechanical semi-automatic keys, were very common among the more experienced operators. Still, few, if any, were used or allowed in tests. Everyone used the straight key on the FCC's test desk. Learning on a straight key was therefore crucial to getting a license! I allowed myself to learn to use a bug after I got my General Class license, but I kept my hand in on a straight key and passed my 20 wpm Extra Class Amateur and my Commercial RadioTelegraph license tests using a straight key. Nowadays, I doubt if there's much to lose learning on a modern keyer. It's certainly easier to send good clean CW with a key compared to either a straight key or bug, but it still requires practice. Keyers are so common that it's not often you are without one! However, and this is important, there are variations in the timing from one keyer to another, particularly if you learn Iambic or "squeeze" keying that can be maddening to change. I built a keyer in the 1970's that I kept and used whenever I used a keyer until I got my K2. It's a "Mode A Iambic" keyer, and I found the squeeze keying features wonderful. I'd not hesitate to tell someone to learn on such a keyer unless they have some association with wanting to use a straight key. I never use a keyer any more. I use a straight key and bug at all times. I do that because of the challenge. It's a lot harder to send clean code on a straight key or a bug and I don't want to lose that ability to the automatic timing provided by a keyer. So some years ago I set my Accu-keyer aside and haven't touched it or the Elecraft keyer logic since. This is a hobby. We do things because they interest us, not because they are easy. If you want to learn to send good code, do *not* use a decoder that can decode bad code!! You want a decoder that falls into gibberish unless the code is perfect! I use CW GET to practice on my bug. That program is devilishly critical! But when I see row after row of perfect copy, I know my fist is under control. After half a century I still practice regularly, usually sending a page out of a phone book - addresses, phone numbers and all. If I can do a page of that without a fluff, I'm a happy fellow! One nice thing about a keyer that began with bugs is that they are less tiring. That's why bugs became popular. Not really for more speed, but so commercial operators could pound out messages hour after hour without getting a "glass arm" - what we'd call tendonitis or carpel tunnel syndrome today. The majority of commercial operators on bugs hummed along at 15 wpm or so, tops. Some commercial services even welded the speed-regulating weights in place on the keys so operators wouldn't be temped to speed up. Faster CW doesn't mean faster message rates if fills are needed. Keyers provide that same advantage, along with the ability to send faster than most people can on a straight key if QRQ is your "thing". You mention a boat. One thing about modern keyers is that they are quieter. Will the first mate/CFO be working or bunking nearby while you're operating? The clack-clack of a straight key can be downright disturbing. Bugs aren't that much quieter either, but there's no reason for anything but a whisper of sound from paddles. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
I would be VERY surprised if the code reader could outperform a decent CW man. And to be a decent CW man, you have to spend the time copying CW without an electronic assist such as a code reader. I would say pass on the CW Reader. The only REAL use I see for it is hooking it up for demos to non-hams so they know what is going on. Otherwise, I just don't see it. I'm voting with the First Mate on this one. I really don't see it for code practice either. Listen as much as you can to good code and try to emulate it. Code is AURAL, not visual. Not sure why you want to see what you're sending. You already KNOW what you're sending. Just listen to it and learn the music and rhythm of CW. Because I started on a straight key 48 years ago, I would say learn on a straight key. I think it helps develop essential timing, but I'm not so sure any more that it matters all that much how you learn it. A good keyer takes care of the timing for you as long as you resist screwing with the weighting to "customize" your fist. And your ear will pick up good timing from constantly comparing yourself to good (and bad) CW. But there is nothing more satisfying than a straight key to me. I always use a straight key with my Rock-Mites. It just doesn't seem right to use a paddle/keyer with simple rigs. Most of the time I use a straight key with my K1, particularly when backpacking or daypacking because it is more rugged and holds adjustment better in adverse conditions than a paddle. I can sit in a canvas chair with the key in one hand and tap out Morse code with the other. Life does get better than that, but not often. At home I always use the internal keyer in the K2. Not sure why. The skills are slightly different. Once you have one (straight key or paddle/keyer) it really isn't all that difficult to go to the other. And you'll automatically adjust going back and forth with time. I wouldn't agonize over the decision too much. Whatever strikes your fancy now will serve you in the end. It's great to see a new ham already looking forward to CW. Somewhere I saw a slogan, "Without CW, it's just CB." Welcome aboard. Eric KE6US -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:56 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles? Comrades, I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon. I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler. 1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output. I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ. If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set? I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it. comments? regards, John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Comrades, I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon. I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler. 1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output. I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ. If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set? I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it. comments? regards, John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward) John I am sure everyone will have an opinion and they will all be different. So here goes mine along with some background. In the early 70's I had and instrutograph (sp) that used paper tape to send code at any speed you set the motor drive to. Much like the computer generated code practice today. I made an offer to make code tapes for anyone that sent me a cassette. A high school student call and I became an Elmer via telephone. After several months of learning the code from the tapes I met him in person and gave him the novice code test which he passed with a perfect copy. I was not required to test his sending but I had a CPO and key with me and had him try sending for his very first time. What he sent sounded like it was machine sent. It was the only code he had ever heard. He passed his novice, upgraded and kept his first call for over 30 years. He also started with QRP and has stayed with it. My point is don't buy any key until you know the code and can copy with out effort at over 10 wpm. Only then buy the paddles and keyer. There are far too many people who think the know the code who should be forced to copy their own sending. That young man was WB6JBM who was a founder of the Flying Pigs QRP Club. 73 John WA8KNE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
Dear John, The best code reader is the one between your ears. At one time it was taught that you had to learn to send on a hand key but in this day of built-in keyers, that probably isn't necessary. I'd use the money you were going to spend on the code reader for a keyer paddle. Good luck learning CW. It's worth the effort. 73, Dave N7AF - Original Message - From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2005 12:55 PM Subject: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
I think everyone should own a straight key - they come in handy at times and do not cost that much. They will key any rig you might ever own, can't say the same for keyers without additional circuitry. I mostly use some sort of keyer and paddle. Which to learn on? I would lean toward the straight key first. Going from that to the keyer/paddle should be relatively easy. The MFJ code reader? I have one, it is not really that good (for anything) --- there are free programs that you can run on a pc with a sound card that will decode cw as well or better than the MFJ unit. The first step to learning CW of course is that of receiving. As you listen to others on the air make some notes of what others do that makes it hard to copy (like run everything together) and try to avoid doing so yourself. 73/72 - Mike WA8BXN ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] start with straight key or paddles?
Comrades, I'm working on my code to get my licenses soon. I will want to do CW with the k2 I will buy and build on board our trawler. 1st mate and CFO watches expenses like a hawk and will catch me if I (gasp) buy two things which appear to do same thing. You can't hide much from her on the 36 boat we live on. I intend to get the $80 MFJ code reader because some of you have convinced me that it is a good detector of unreadable output. I'm hoping to get my speed and accuracy up by sending to the MFJ. If I ultimately intend to use paddles as most of you appear to be doing, why is it a bad idea simply to start with a set? I can understand that what I'm really wanting to do is to train my "fist" and ears, but it looks like paddles involve somewhat different monkey motions and maybe it would make more sense just to buy a set and get on with it. comments? regards, John Ferguson - M/V Arcadian (now in Norfolk,VA waiting for wave amplitude reduction in Chesapeake Bay before continuing northward) ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RTTY Filter and low end of BFO range
Leigh, Most if not all K2s will have a problem tuning for a 2200 Hz tone on both sidebands, but 1000 Hz should be possible with some work on the BFO. What you are asking to do is to have a BFO range of more than (IF center frequency +/- 1000 Hz + filter width) - the center frequency is the real problem - it will depend on which matched crystal set you have installed in your K2. You can certainly try Bill's capacitor addition, but be aware that the BFO could become unstable if the crystals are pulled too far - if you end up with 'muddy sounding' signals, it is not working for you. You could also change or pad C173 and C174 (observing the relative size ratio) to shift your entire BFO range since you have excess range on one side and accomplish the same thing - note that your BFO high and low frequencies could be shifted a bit from those indicated in the manual if your IF center frequency is off to one side of the average. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > I have enough BFO range as described in the manual and am able to reach > 4912.97 on the low end. Unfortunately, while that is low enough for me > to center the RTTY filters on 1000Hz for one of the sidebands, it is not > for the other. On the "bum" sideband, the narrowest RTTY filters are > centered around 7700-750Hz. Both CW and CWR filters at 600Hz are ok. > ... > > On the other sideband, I have no trouble, and so I am fine on the lower > bands, as I can use R, but on the higher bands, I have to switch > sidebands for digital modes. That's not a a problem for some modes such > as PSK but it is a problem for MFSK and its variants. > > Are other K2s able to center RTTY filters on 1000Hz on both sidebands? > Would this small cap Bill suggests help mine without affecting > stability? It looks like I need a 250Hz-300Hz move down on the low > end. I don't know if that is reasonable and an effect of the wider > KSB2, or if I have some other, undiagnosed problem. > > 73 es TNX, > Leigh / WA5ZNU > > On Sat, 7 May 2005 7:25 pm, Bill Coleman wrote: > > I recently had to completely reconfigure my filters, as I added the > > RTTY mode. In order to accommodate my chosen center frequency of 1500 > > Hz for AFSK RTTY, I had to modify the BFO to get sufficient range. I > > had already added 47 and 100 pf caps across C174 and C173, respectively > > when I made the A->B mods and the BFO stability mod. I changed these to > > 56 and 120 pf, but this did not move the BFO frequencies much at all. > > Then I added a 3 pf cap from X3/X4 junction to ground. This moved the > > lower frequency about 800 Hz without affecting the upper frequency. > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.11.6 - Release Date: 5/6/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] My beautiful KX1
Hi, Last night I worked KZ8G for the second time. He was very strong and hearing me 579. Mind you I was using a 20 meter vertical at 40 feet. I was running 1.5 watts. He had never worked someone before at that power output. I realized there is one element that was making the QSO work. It was the regular, clean pulsing CW of the keyer. This promotes clarity to the point where you can be using "mice nuts" for the output power but still be more intelligible than other people. Elecraft!! if you ever wish to consider an easy upgrade to your rigs, work on improving the keyer, like adding or reducing weighting so operators can send cleaner CW and therefore be heard better in the noise. 73 and thanks so much, I am having fun. Alan ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Using the old, original RJ45 Rigblaster with the K2
Hi Les, So, does anyone on the reflector know how to wire up this older (5 years) Rigblaster? Where did I go wrong? I have used the original Rigblaster with the K2 and MH2 mic no problem. One tip, I had the 4 pin mic connector on the front, but the PC board is the same, and I had removed the 4-pin connector, and soldered in a PC mounted 8 pin modular jack for my IC706MkIIG. Later when I moved it to the K2, I took that out and soldering in a 8pin jack into the holes right behind the modular jack. This was easy since my case was for the round connector to start with. You might have to open up the square hole some. Then you do not have to play adapter games with your mic. I also put the 5.6K resistor in the mic cable connector, not the radio, so I can use the radio with dynamic mics (like the Pro Set) and move the mics around between rigs. I cannot find any special notes and it looks like mine was wired straight through, but you have to make sure you are intercepting the PTT line in the RIGBlaster jumper header correctly, this should not pass though, as the PTT needs to go into the RIGBlaster first. 73, Mike Lewis K7MDL Grid Locator CN87xt Member of Pacific Northwest VHF Society #C96 (www.pnwvhfs.org) Member of Microsoft Amateur Radio Club (www.microhams.com) Visit the K7MDL Amateur Radio Pages web site at http://mysite.verizon.net/michael_d_lewis/index.html Elecraft K2 #2633 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Transverter TRN3 and TRN6 setup problems
Hi Ben, After setting up the TRN3 and/or TRN6 parameters in the K2 and returning to normal operation, as soon as VFO knob turned the frequency on the display go to what seems to a randome one, AND VFO input is ignored (?) as dispaly is "locked". Other TRN bands (TRN1, 2, 4, 5) work OK. I have not seen this problem quite as described, and am running the latest firmware in the QRP configuration with internal tuner. One thing that might be happening is the initial displayed frequency might be uninitialized so is randomly set out of band. Try to use the direct frequency input method to set the expected frequency. (Band- and + together, enter digits). 73, Mike Lewis K7MDL Grid Locator CN87xt Member of Pacific Northwest VHF Society #C96 (www.pnwvhfs.org) Member of Microsoft Amateur Radio Club (www.microhams.com) Visit the K7MDL Amateur Radio Pages web site at http://mysite.verizon.net/michael_d_lewis/index.html Elecraft K2 #2633 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] FS: KX1 + ZM-2
Hi all, Up for sale here is an Excellent working Elecraft KX1 with all options (KXB30, KXAT1 and KPXD1). I also have an Emtech Z-match model ZM-2 (probably the smallest Z-match in the world). Both units are in excellent condition, both electrical and cosmetical. No dings or scratches. Asking $500 plus shipping for the lot. Anyone interested? Please contact me off the list. 73/72, Hans / LA2MOA KX1 #975 K1 #1992 K2 #4896 - not completed yet... ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
